2005 Cadillac SRX Owners Manual

highlighted, press and hold the CLR button. The percentage will return to 100, and the oil life indicator will be reset. 3. Turn the key to OFF. If the Change Engine Oil message comes back on when you start your vehicle or the percentage does not return to 100, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. Navigation System If you have the navigation system, see “Vehicle Customization” in the SRX Navigation System Owner Supplement for how to reset the oil life indicator.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

5-21

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

4.6L V8 shown, 3.6L V6 similar

The engine air cleaner/filter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle, near the front. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

5-22

When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at every oil change and replace it at the first oil change after 25,000 miles (40 000 km). How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the filter, do the following: 1. Remove the two screws located on the top of the

cover.

2. Disconnect the coolant recovery hose so that it is

not going across the top of the engine air cleaner/filter.

3. Loosen the clamp and remove the duct from the passenger’s side of the engine air cleaner/filter.

4. The two sides of the airbox are hinged at the bottom. Open the airbox by pushing the top of the airbox cover toward the engine.

5. Remove the air filter by lifting it straight up through

the opening in the airbox.

6. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13 for the correct part number for the filter.

7. Reinstall the cover by reversing Steps 1 through 4.

{CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can

Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have your fluid level checked by your dealer or service center when you have your oil changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.

(cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery

service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing. Notice: Use of automatic transmission fluid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transmission fluid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) How to Reset the Change Transmission Fluid Message and the Transmission Fluid Indicator After the transmission fluid has been changed, the Change Trans Fluid message and the transmission fluid life indicator must be reset. To reset the message and indicator, use one of the following procedures: Base Audio System Press the CLR button located to the right of the DIC display to acknowledge the CHANGE TRANS FLUID message. This will clear the message from the display and reset it. To reset the transmission fluid life indicator, use the following steps: 1. Press the up or down arrow on the INFO button located to the right of the DIC display to access the DIC menu.

2. Once the XXX% TRANS FLUID LIFE menu item is

highlighted, press and hold the CLR button. The percentage will return to 100, and the transmission fluid life indicator will be reset.

3. Repeat the steps if the percentage does not return

to 100.

Navigation System If your vehicle has a navigation system, see your navigation system supplement for instructions on how to reset the transmission fluid life indicator.

5-24

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-27. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

(cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture,

Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than once or twice a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

If you use the proper coolant, you do not

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

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Checking Coolant

The coolant surge tank and pressure cap are located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, toward the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

5-26

{CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the surge tank. Follow the arrow from the top of the tank down the side to the horizontal mark. If the Check Coolant Level message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-57 for more information.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.

Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: If the surge tank pressure cap is not tightly installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.

Engine Overheating There are three engine hot messages that may be displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-57
for more information.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-29 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

If your engine catches fire because you

Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-29 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a Check Coolant Level message, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning with no Check Coolant Level message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Set the climate controls to the highest heat setting

and fan speed and open the windows, as necessary.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Should an overheated engine condition exist, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. A low coolant and/or engine overheat warning will indicate that an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss and change the oil. See Engine Oil on page 5-16.

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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or slightly above the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

3.6L V6 shown, 4.6L V8 similar

A. Electric Engine Cooling Fans B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap Some vehicles may be equipped with an engine driven fan, as well as the electric pusher fans (A) which are located behind the vehicle’s grille.

5-30

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service.

Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-29 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

5-31

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-24 for more information.

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

5-32

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure

cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one-quarter turn and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. The upper radiator hose is the largest of the hoses which comes out of the radiator, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

Start the engine and allow it to warm up. If the Check Coolant Level message does not appear on the Driver Information Center, the coolant is at the proper fill level. If a Check Coolant Level message does appear, repeat Steps 1 to 3 then reinstall the pressure cap, or see your GM dealer.

3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture,

to slightly above the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank.

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Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located in the center of the engine compartment, toward the front of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level

on the dipstick.

The level should be within the HOT mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level within the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid The Check Washer Fluid message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when the fluid level is low. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-57
for more information.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

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Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.

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{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-83.

(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications.

Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system —for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-41 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-111.

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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

If you leave your radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

5-41

4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (−) terminal locations of the other vehicle, as well as the positive (+) terminal location on your vehicle’s battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on the location of the battery.

Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) ground location, as shown in the illustration. It is located between the battery and the underhood fuse block. You should always use this remote ground location, instead of the terminal on the battery.

5-42

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5-43

{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the

negative terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Your vehicle’s remote negative (−) ground location is for this purpose.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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If the jumper cables are removed in the

Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

All-Wheel Drive All of the lubricant checks in this section apply to your vehicle. If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, there is an additional system that need lubrication.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

5-46

Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check the transfer case fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.

A. Drain Plug

B. Fill Plug

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check the front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.

A. Drain Plug

B. Filler Plug

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Bulb Replacement It is recommended that all bulbs be replaced by your dealer.

High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting

{CAUTION:

The low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer or a qualified technician service them.

Your vehicle may have HID headlamps. After your vehicle’s HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-8. It’s a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly on a regular basis or when worn. For proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to ON with the engine off. 2. Turn on the windshield wipers and turn them off

again when the wipers are in the out-wipe position. The driver’s side blade will be straight up and down on the windshield.

3. Pull the windshield wiper assembly away from the

windshield.

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7. Reinstall the wiper blade assembly by sliding it over the wiper arm to engage the J-hooked end. Pull up on the assembly to lock it into place. 8. Repeat the steps for the other wiper.

4. Lift the wiper blade assembly up so it is in a

T-shaped position. You should be able to see a tab.

Notice: Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 5. Squeeze the tab together and pull the wiper blade

assembly down far enough to release it from the J-hooked end of the wiper arm. Slide the assembly away from the arm.

6. Replace the blade with a new one.

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58, for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.

{CAUTION:

(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used

tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. All season tires provide good overall performance on most surfaces but they may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. See your dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-64
If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all

four wheel positions.

(cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load

range, and speed rating as the original equipment tires.

Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.

Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-66. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

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Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-82
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-69.

(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.

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(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Definitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45.

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GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

KiloPascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45.

Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

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Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-66. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45.

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Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading

(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar, below the driver’s door latch. This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-82.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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High Speed Operation

{CAUTION:

Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving, causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such, that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.

If you will be driving at high speeds, speeds of 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, where it is legal, set the cold inflation pressure to the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or 38 psi (265 kPa), whichever is lower. See the example following. When you end this high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold inflation pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45. Example: You will find the maximum load and inflation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near the rim flange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 690 kg (1521 lbs) 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press. For this example, you would set the inflation pressure for high-speed driving at 38 psi (265 kPa).

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Tire Pressure Monitor System Your vehicle may have this feature. The Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) system uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. If your vehicle has this feature, sensors are mounted on each tire and wheel assembly, except for the compact spare tire and wheel. Tire pressure readings are sent to a receiver located in the vehicle once every 60 seconds while the vehicle is being driven, and once every 60 minutes if the vehicle is stationary for more than 15 minutes. Using the Driver Information Center (DIC), tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see System Controls on page 3-48 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-57. When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPM system will display the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and, at the same time, illuminate the low tire pressure warning symbol, on the instrument panel cluster.

When the tire pressure monitoring system warning light is lit, one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated.

You should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure as indicated on the vehicle’s tire information placard. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Each tire, including the spare, should be checked monthly when cold and set to the recommended inflation pressure as specified in the vehicle placard and owner’s manual. The Tire and Loading Information Label (your vehicle’s tire information placard) shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and their recommended cold inflation pressures. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45, for the location of the tire and loading information label. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. Your vehicle’s TPM system can alert you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-63 and Tires on page 5-52. Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle is equipped with Tire Pressure Monitors. The liquid sealant can damage the tire pressure monitor sensors.

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TPM Sensor Identification Codes Each TPM sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPM sensors, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. Each tire/wheel position is matched, to a sensor, by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel positions, in the following order: left front (LF), right front (RF), right rear (RR), and left rear (LR). You will have one minute to match the first tire/wheel position, and five minutes overall, to match all four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer than one minute, to match the first tire and wheel, or more than five minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions the matching process stops and you will need to start over. The TPM matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the Parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON with the engine off. 3. Using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter,

lock and unlock the vehicle’s doors.

4. Press the lock and unlock buttons, at the same

time, on the RKE transmitter. A single horn chirp will sound, indicating that the TPM system is ready, and the sensor matching process can begin.

5. Start with the left (driver’s side) front tire. 6. Remove the valve cap from the valve stem.

Activate the TPM sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for five seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds, confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire position. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointy end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage or a key.

7. Proceed to the right (passenger’s side) front tire,

and repeat the procedure in Step 6.

8. Proceed to the right (passenger’s side) rear tire,

and repeat the procedure in Step 6.

9. Proceed to the left (driver’s side) rear tire, and

repeat the procedure in Step 6.

10. After hearing the confirming double horn chirp, for the left rear tire, exit the matching process by turning the ignition switch to OFF.

11. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure

level as indicated on the tire and loading information label.

12. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

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The spare tire does not have a TPM sensor. If you replace one of the road tires with the spare, the SERVICE TIRE MESSAGE will be displayed on the DIC screen. This message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPM sensor. The Service Tire Monitor message is also displayed when the TPM system is malfunctioning. One or more missing or inoperable TPM sensors will cause the service tire monitor message to be displayed. See your GM dealer for service. This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation.

This device complies with RSS-210 of Industry Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference, and 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.

Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.

Tire Inspection and Rotation The tires on your vehicle are different sizes front to rear. Due to this, your tires should not be rotated. Each tire and wheel should be used only in the position it is in. Check your tires and wheels regularly for unusual wear and damage. Also see, Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4, When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64
and Wheel Replacement on page 5-67.

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When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-45, for an example of the label and where it can be found on your vehicle. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, GM recommends that you get tires with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, load range, traction, ride, tire pressure monitoring system performance and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). Whenever you replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires. Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose snow tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) {CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

If you replace your vehicle’s tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, the tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low-pressure warning. Non-TPC Spec tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec numbered tires.

{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle) or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle) may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size and type tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-82.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. If you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

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If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70 for more information.

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Tire Chains Notice: Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the rear axle tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

{CAUTION:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart

while the vehicle is raised.

4. Do not allow passengers to remain in

the vehicle.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

When you have a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.

The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you’ll need is located in the rear of the vehicle. 1. Remove the storage bin to access the jack if your

vehicle has the cargo management system. If your vehicle has the third row seat, remove the head rest storage tray to access the jack.

Removing the Spare Tire The compact spare tire is located under the vehicle, ahead of the rear bumper. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-82 for more information about the compact spare.

A. Wheel Wrench B. Cable C. Retainer D. Compact Spare Tire

2. Turn the wing nut (A) holding the jack (B)

(and storage tray, if applicable) counterclockwise and remove it.

3. Then remove the jack and wheel wrench (C).

1. Open the storage compartment door of the cargo

management system that is nearest the liftgate and remove the container.

2. Attach the wheel wrench (A) into the hoist shaft.

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3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue turning the wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.

4. Tilt the retainer (C) and slip it through the

wheel opening to remove the spare tire from the cable (B).

5. Turn the wrench clockwise until you feel two slips or hear two clicks after removing the spare tire to raise the cable back up. Do not store a full-size or a flat road tire under the vehicle. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-79.

To continue changing the flat tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 5-73.

If the spare tire will not lower, the secondary latch may be engaged causing the tire not to lower. Do the following to check the cable: 1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable is visible. 2. If it’s not visible, see Secondary Latch System on

page 5-77. If it is visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot over-tighten the cable.

3. Loosen the cable then by turning the wrench

counterclockwise three or four turns.

4. Tighten the cable all the way and then loosen it at

least two times, if the spare tire has not lowered. If the spare tire did lower to the ground, continue with Step 4 under Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-71.

If you still cannot lower the spare tire to the ground, see Secondary Latch System on page 5-77.

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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. Using the flat end of the wheel wrench, pry off the center cap at the notch. Be careful; the edges may be sharp. Don’t try to remove the cover with your bare hands.

2. Loosen the wheel nuts — but do not remove

them — using the wheel wrench. (Turn the handle about 180 degrees, then flip the handle back to the starting position. This avoids taking the wrench off the lug nut for each turn.)

3. Find the jacking

location using the hoisting notches located in the plastic molding. The notches in the plastic molding are marked with a triangle shape to help you find them.

{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

{CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

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{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

4. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack. 5. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the jack

lift head until the jack just fits under the vehicle.

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6. Raise the jack by turning the wheel wrench

clockwise until the slots in the jack head fit into the metal flange located behind the triangle on the plastic molding as shown.

Notice: Using a jack to raise the vehicle without positioning it correctly could damage your vehicle. When raising your vehicle on a jack, be sure to position it correctly under the frame and avoid contact with the plastic molding.

7. Put the compact spare tire near you. 8. Raise the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the compact spare tire to fit under the vehicle.

9. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

{CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

10. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

11. Install the spare tire and put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel.

12. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is

held against the hub.

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13. Lower the vehicle by attaching the wheel wrench to

the jack and turning the wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

14. Tighten the wheel nuts

firmly in a crisscross sequence, as shown.

{CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-102 for wheel nut torque specification.

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead

Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

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Notice: Wheel covers will not fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

15. Don’t try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare

tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover securely in the rear of the vehicle until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

Secondary Latch System Your vehicle has an underbody mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop the compact spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire must be stowed with the valve stem pointing down. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-79
for instructions on storing the spare tire correctly.

{CAUTION:

Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed below.

{CAUTION:

Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from the spare.

To release the spare tire from the secondary latch, do the following: 1. If the cable is not visible, start this procedure

at Step 3.

2. If the cable is visible, turn the wrench

counterclockwise until approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.

3. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack and raise the

jack at least 10 turns.

4. Place the jack under the vehicle, ahead of the rear

bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the spare tire.

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5. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the jack

until it lifts the secondary latch spring.

6. Keep raising the jack until the spare tire stops

moving upward and is held firmly in place, this lets you know that the secondary latch has released.

7. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench

counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire is resting on the wheel wrench.

8. Grasp the spare tire with both hands and pull it out

from under the vehicle.

9. Reach under the vehicle and remove the wheel

wrench and jack.

10. Tilt the retainer and slip it through the wheel opening

when the spare tire has been completely lowered.

11. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the cable back

up if the cable is hanging.

Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare tire using the hoist assembly until it has been repaired or replaced.

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Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

Storing the Flat Tire with Third Row Passengers

{CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Put back all tools as they were stored in the rear storage compartment and put the compartment cover back on. 1. Use the power third row seat button, near the

liftgate, to tilt the third row seatback forward slightly. 2. Place the flat tire in the tire storage bag and put the tire in an upright position against the third row seat. 3. Route the tie-down strap through the tire as shown

in the graphic and attach the strap to the cargo tie-downs in the rear of the vehicle.

4. Tighten the tie-down strap.

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Storing the Flat Tire with a Flat Load Floor

Put back all tools as they were stored in the rear storage compartment and put the compartment cover back on. 1. Place the flat tire in the tire storage bag and put the tire in a horizontal position on the floor in the rear of the vehicle.

2. Route the tie-down strap through the tire as shown

in the graphic and attach the strap to the cargo tie-downs in the rear of the vehicle.

3. Tighten the tie-down strap.

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Storing the Spare Tire and Tools

{CAUTION:

The underbody-mounted spare tire needs to be stored with the valve stem pointing down. If the spare tire is stored with the valve stem pointing upwards, its secondary latch won’t work properly and the spare tire could loosen and suddenly fall from your vehicle. If this happened when your vehicle was being driven, the tire might contact a person or another vehicle, causing injury and, of course, damage to itself as well. Be sure the underbody-mounted spare tire is stored with its valve stem pointing down.

1. Lay the compact spare tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle. Position the compact spare tire so that the valve stem is pointed down facing the rear of the vehicle.

2. Lower the cable to the ground. See Removing the

Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-71.

3. Tilt the retainer downward and slip it through the

center hole of the spare tire. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.