2010 Cadillac Escalade Owners Manual

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When windshield washer fluid needs to be added, be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions before use. Use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing. Adding Washer Fluid The vehicle has a low washer fluid message in the DIC that comes on when the washer fluid is low. The message is displayed for 15 seconds at the start of each ignition cycle. When the WASHER FLUID LOW ADD FLUID message displays, you will need to add washer fluid to the windshield washer fluid reservoir.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 7‑16 for reservoir location.

Notice:

. When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer's instructions for adding water.

. Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer

fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage the washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

. Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in the

windshield washer. It can damage the windshield washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT 3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 7‑16
for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down:

The brake fluid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the fluid level goes back up.

. A fluid leak in the brake hydraulic system can also

cause a low fluid level. Have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.

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Do not top off the brake fluid. Adding fluid does not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{ WARNING:

If too much brake fluid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the brake warning light comes on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 4‑33. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check the brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 8‑3 .

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Checking Brake Fluid Check brake fluid by looking at the brake fluid reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 7‑16.

Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add Use only new DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 8‑10 .

{ WARNING:

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice:

. Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If brake fluid is spilled on the vehicle's painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 7‑103.

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Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 7‑117. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear.

Brake Wear This vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal firmly.

{ WARNING:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to a crash. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed.

Battery If the vehicle is a Two‐mode Hybrid, see the Two‐mode Hybrid manual for more information. Refer to the replacement number on the original battery label when a new battery is needed. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 7‑16 for battery location.

{ DANGER:

Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

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Jump Starting If the vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information. If the vehicle's battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{ WARNING:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Vehicle Storage

{ WARNING:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 7‑44
for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Infrequent Usage: Remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery to keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: Remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger.

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Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: If the other vehicle's system is not a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper

cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put the automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in Neutral before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear, not in Neutral.

Notice: If you leave the radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle.

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all the lamps that are not needed. This avoids sparks and helps save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. If the vehicle has a remote positive (+) terminal, it is located under a red plastic cover at the positive battery post. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover.

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{ WARNING:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{ WARNING:

Using an open flame near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

The remote negative (−) terminal is a stud located on the right front of the engine, where the negative battery cable attaches. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 7‑16
for more information on the location of the remote positive (+) and remote negative (−) terminals.

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{ WARNING:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

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9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to

the remote negative (−) terminal, on the vehicle with the dead battery.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

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Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following:

1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the bad battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

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3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover, if the

vehicle has one, to its original position.

All-Wheel Drive Transfer Case If your vehicle is equipped with All-Wheel Drive, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 8‑3.

How to Check Lubricant

(A) Drain Plug (B) Filler Plug

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the transfer case, you'll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug.

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 8‑10. Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. All axle assemblies are filled by volume of fluid during production. They are not filled to reach a certain level. When checking the fluid level on any axle, variations in the readings can be caused by factory fill differences between the minimum and the maximum fluid volume. Also, if a vehicle has just been driven before checking the fluid level, it may appear lower than normal because fluid has traveled out along the axle tubes and has not drained back to the sump area. Therefore, a reading taken five minutes after the vehicle has been driven will appear to have a lower fluid level than a vehicle that has been stationary for an hour or two. Remember that the rear axle assembly must be supported to get a true reading.

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How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

For Two-Wheel-Drive vehicles, the proper level is from 0.6 inch to 1.6 inches (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. For All-Wheel-Drive vehicles, the proper level is from 0.04 inch to 0.75 inch (1.0 mm to 19.0 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 8‑10. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

A: Fill Plug B: Drain Plug

. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant

to raise the level from 0 (0 mm) to 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) below the filler plug hole.

. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 8‑10.

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Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim of the headlamps have been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in a crash, the aim of the headlamps may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may mean the vertical aim of your headlamps needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be adjusted. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described. The vehicle should:

. Be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from

a light colored wall or other flat surface.

. Have all four tires on a level surface which is level

all the way to the wall or other flat surface.

. Be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other

flat surface.

. Not have any snow, ice, or mud on it. . Be fully assembled and all other work stopped

while headlamp aiming is being performed.

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. Be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver seat.

. Have the tires properly inflated. . Have the spare tire is in its proper location in the

vehicle.

Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle's low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. To adjust the vertical aim:

1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 7‑15

for more information.

2. Locate the center of the projector lens of the low‐beam headlamp.

3. Record the distance from the ground to the center

of the projector lens of the low‐beam headlamp.

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4. At a wall, measure from the ground upward (A) to

the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.

5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the

width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4.

Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.

6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the flat surface.

7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a E8
Torx® socket.

8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam.

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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 7‑56. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting

{ WARNING:

The low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer or a qualified technician service them.

The vehicle may have HID headlamps. After an HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal.

9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is

positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim.

10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite

headlamp.

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LED Lighting The vehicle may have LED headlamps. For replacement of the LED lighting assembly contact your dealer. Back-Up Lamps To replace this bulb:

1. Open the liftgate.

See Power Liftgate on page 3‑14 for more information.

2. Remove the two screws from the taillamp assembly.

3. Pull the taillamp assembly rearward until you

disengage the inner pins on the taillamp assembly from the vehicle.

4. Press the release tab, if the bulb socket has one, and turn the socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp assembly.

5. Pull the old bulb straight out from the socket. 6. Press a new bulb into the socket, insert the socket

into the taillamp assembly and turn the socket clockwise into the taillamp assembly until it clicks.

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7. Reinstall the taillamp assembly. When reinstalling,

2. Twist and pull the license plate lamp forward

make sure to line up the pins on the taillamp assembly with the vehicle. If you do not line up the pins correctly, you will not be able install the taillamp assembly properly.

If you need to replace the taillamp, stoplamp, or turn signal, you will need to see your dealer for service. License Plate Lamp

through the molding opening.

3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the

bulb straight out of the socket. Install the new bulb.

4. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the license

plate lamp.

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Back-up Lamp License Plate Lamp

7440
W5W

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.

1. Remove the two screws holding each of the

license plate lamps to the molding that is part of the liftgate.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 8‑3. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. To replace the wiper blade assembly:

1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away from

the windshield.

3.

Install the new blade onto the arm connector and make sure the grooved areas are fully set in the locked position.

For the proper type and size, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 8‑12.

2. Squeeze the grooved areas on each side of the

blade, and turn the blade assembly away from the arm connector.

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Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement 1. Lift the wiper blade assembly up and out of the

park rest position.

2. Pull the wiper blade assembly away from the

backglass. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle.

3. Turn the wiper blade assembly, and pull it off of the wiper arm. Hold the wiper arm in position and push the blade away from the wiper arm.

4. Replace the wiper blade. 5. Return the wiper blade assembly to the park rest

position.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer.

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{ WARNING:

WARNING: (Continued)

. Poorly maintained and improperly used

tires are dangerous.

. Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. SeeLoading the Vehicle on page 6‑32 .

. Underinflated tires pose the same danger

as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 7‑65 .

(Continued)

. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

. Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

See High-Speed Operation on page 7‑66 for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.

22‐Inch Tires If your vehicle has the optional 22‐inch P285/45R22 size tires, they are classified as touring tires and are designed for on‐road use. The low‐profile, wide tread design is not recommended for off‐road driving. See Off-Road Driving on page 6‑13, for additional information.

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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustration is an example of a typical P‐Metric tire sidewall.

Passenger (P‐Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire's width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM's specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM's TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 7‑76.

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(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 7‑65 and Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32. Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.

Passenger (P‐Metric) Tire

(A) Passenger (P‐Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three‐digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two‐digit number that indicates the tire height‐to‐width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT‐Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire's sidewall is 75% as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted‐bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load index and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load.

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Tire Terminology and Definitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire's height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 7‑65. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32.

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Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT‐Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer's recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 7‑65 and Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

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Black plate (64,1)

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle's capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 7‑73. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire's traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 7‑76.

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Black plate (65,1)

Inflation - Tire Pressure If your vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information. Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under‐inflation or over‐inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under‐inflation), you can get the following:

. Too much flexing . Too much heat . Tire overloading . Premature or irregular wear . Poor handling . Reduced fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (over‐inflation), you can get the following:

. Unusual wear . Poor handling . Rough ride . Needless damage from road hazards

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle's original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle's maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the pressure of the spare tire. SeeSpare Tire on page 7‑98 for additional information.

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How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gauge to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are underinflated. Check the tire's inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gauge firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gauge. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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High-Speed Operation

{ WARNING:

Driving at high speeds, 160 km/h (100 mph) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.

If your vehicle has P265/65R18 or P285/45R22 size tires and you will be driving at high speeds, speeds of 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, set the cold inflation pressure to 3 psi (20 kPa) above the recommended tire pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information Label. When you end this high‐speed driving, return the tires to the cold inflation pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 7‑65.

Cadillac Escalade/Escalade ESV Owner Manual - 2010

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Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle's tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under‐inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under‐inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under‐inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle's handling and stopping ability.

Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver's responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under‐inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start‐ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 7‑68 for additional information.

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Black plate (68,1)

Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry Canada See Radio Frequency Statement on page 9‑21 for information regarding Part 15 of the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) rules and Industry Canada Standards RSS-210/220/310. Tire Pressure Monitor Operation If your vehicle is a Two‐mode Hybrid, see the Two‐mode Hybrid manual for more information. This vehicle may have a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). The TPMS is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle's tires and transmit the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.

When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster.

At the same time a message to check the pressure in a specific tire appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. Using the DIC, tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 4‑42 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 4‑49. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle's original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle's tires when they are cold. See Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32 , for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 7‑65. Your vehicle's TPMS can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 7‑71 and Tires on page 7‑58.

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Notice: Liquid tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. Sensor damage caused by using a tire sealant is not covered by your warranty. Do not use liquid tire sealants. TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are:

. One of the road tires has been replaced with the spare tire. The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re‐install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor.

The TPMS sensor matching process was started but not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle's tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.

. One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer for service.

. Replacement tires or wheels do not match your

vehicle's original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 7‑73 .

. Operating electronic devices or being near facilities

using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction.

If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message comes on and stays on.

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TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you rotate your vehicle's tires or replace one or more of the TPMS sensors, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/ wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire's air pressure. If increasing the tire's air pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire's sidewall. To decrease air-pressure out of a tire you can use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gauge, or a key.

You have two minutes to match the first tire/wheel position, and five minutes overall to match all four tire/ wheel positions. If it takes longer than two minutes, to match the first tire and wheel, or more than five minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions the matching process stops and you need to start over. The TPMS sensor matching process is outlined below:

1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the

engine off.

3. Press Q and K on the Remote Keyless

Entry (RKE) transmitter at the same time for approximately five seconds. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode and TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays on the DIC screen.

4. Start with the driver side front tire.

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5. Remove the valve cap from the valve cap stem.

9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF.

Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire's air pressure for five seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds to sound, confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position.

6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire, and

repeat the procedure in Step 5.

7. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire, and repeat

the procedure in Step 5.

8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5. The horn sounds two times to indicate the sensor identification code has been matched to the driver side rear tire, and the TPMS sensor matching process is no longer active. The TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message on the DIC display screen goes off.

10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure

level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.

11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems. Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect your vehicle's tires, including the spare tire, for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 7‑73 for more information. Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 8‑3 . The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that your vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new.

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Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 7‑73 and Wheel Replacement on page 7‑77.

Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 7‑68. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 7‑117.

{ WARNING:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 7‑80.

Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, tighten the cable. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 7‑94.

When rotating your vehicle's tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the spare tire in the tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 7‑65 and Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32.

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When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions, influence when you need new tires.

One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need new tires if any of the following statements are true:

. You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

. You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire's rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information. Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires.

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GM's exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM's TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire's sidewall near the tire size. If the tires have an all‐season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 7‑60 for additional information. GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of your vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 7‑71
for information on proper tire rotation.

{ WARNING:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle might not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types could also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. Your vehicle may have a different size spare than the road tires (those originally installed on your vehicle). When new, your vehicle included a spare tire and wheel assembly with a similar overall diameter as your vehicle's road tires and wheels, so it is all right to drive on it. Because this spare was developed for use on your vehicle, it will not affect vehicle handling.

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{ WARNING:

If you use bias-ply tires on the vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on the vehicle.

If you must replace your vehicle's tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias‐belted tires) as your vehicle's original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low‐pressure warning if non‐TPC spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non‐TPC Spec rated tires may give a low‐pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 7‑67. Your vehicle's original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 6‑32 , for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.

Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this could affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as anti‐lock brakes, rollover airbags, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.

{ WARNING:

If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.

See Buying New Tires on page 7‑73 and Accessories and Modifications on page 7‑4 for additional information.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

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All Passenger Car Tires Must Conform to Federal Safety Requirements In Addition To These Grades. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1½) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete.

Cadillac Escalade/Escalade ESV Owner Manual - 2010

Black plate (77,1)

A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

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If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, or Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, and TPMS sensors for your vehicle.

{ WARNING:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 7‑80 for more information.

Used Replacement Wheels

{ WARNING:

Putting a used wheel on the vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Tire Chains

{ WARNING:

Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of the vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on the

(Continued)

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WARNING: (Continued)

vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer's instructions. To help avoid damage to the vehicle, drive slowly, re‐adjust or remove the device if it is contacting the vehicle, and do not spin the wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle's tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.

A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

{ WARNING:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, only use it for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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Black plate (80,1)

Changing a Flat Tire If your vehicle is a Two-mode Hybrid, see the Two-mode Hybrid manual for more information. If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 4‑3 .

{ WARNING:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in P (Park).

(Continued)

WARNING: (Continued)

3. Turn off the engine and do not restart while

the vehicle is raised.

4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the

vehicle.

To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

When the vehicle has a flat tire (B), use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks (A).

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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you will need is stored under the storage tray, which is located on the driver's side trim panel (over the rear wheelhouse).

A. Wheel Block B. Flat Tire

The following information explains how to use the jack and change a tire.

Regular Wheelbase shown, Extended Wheelbase

similar.

1. Remove the tray to access the tools by pulling up

on the finger depression under the jack symbol.

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The tools you will be using include the following:

2. Remove the wing nut (B) used to retain the tool

bag by turning it counterclockwise.

3. Turn the knob (A) on the jack counterclockwise to

release the jack and wheel blocks from the bracket.

4. Remove the wheel blocks and the wheel block

retainer by turning the wing nut (C) counterclockwise.

A. Jack B. Wheel Blocks C. Jack Handle

D. Jack Handle

Extensions

E. Wheel Wrench

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To access the spare tire:

1. To reach the hoist shaft access cover (C), you will first need to remove the hitch cover. Remove it by turning the two fasteners located at the bottom of the cover counterclockwise and then pull the cover down and rotate towards you.

A. Hoist Assembly B. Hoist Shaft C. Hoist Shaft Access

Cover/Hole D. Jack Handle

Extensions

E. Wheel Wrench F. Hoist Cable

G. Tire/Wheel Retainer H. Spare Tire (Valve Stem

Pointed Down)

I. Hoist Shaft Access Hole J. Hoist End of

Extension Tool K. Spare Tire Lock

2. Open the hoist shaft access cover (C) on the

bumper to access the spare tire lock (K).

3. To remove the spare tire lock insert the ignition key, turn it clockwise and then pull the lock out.

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Be sure the hoist end (J) of the extension (D) connects to the hoist shaft (B). The ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire.

6. Turn the wheel wrench (E) counterclockwise to

lower the spare tire (H) to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower. See Secondary Latch System on page 7‑91
for more information.

7. Use the wheel wrench hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you, to assist in reaching the spare tire.

4. Assemble the two jack handle extensions (D) and

wheel wrench (E) as shown.

5.

Insert the open end of the extension (J) through the hole in the rear bumper (I) (hoist shaft access hole).

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8. Tilt the tire toward the vehicle with some slack in

the cable to access the tire/wheel retainer (G). Separate the retainer from the guide pin by sliding the retainer up the pin while pressing down on the latch.

Once the retainer is separated from the pin, tilt the retainer and pull it through the center of the wheel along with the cable and latch.

9. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. Do a safety check before proceeding. See

Changing a Flat Tire on page 7‑80 for more information.

2. To remove the center cap, place the chiseled end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry the cap out.

Jacking Locations (Overall View)

A. Front Position B. Rear Position

3. Use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Do not remove the wheel nuts yet.

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{ WARNING:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

{ WARNING:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

4. Position the jack under the vehicle as shown.

Front Position

Front Tire Flat: If the flat tire is on a front tire of the vehicle, you will need to use the jack handle and only one jack handle extension. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extension. Attach the jack handle to the jack (A). Position the jack on the frame behind the flat tire where the frame sections overlap. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground.

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5. Remove all of the

wheel nuts.

6. Take off the flat tire.

Rear Position

Rear Tire Flat: If the flat tire is on a rear tire of the vehicle, you will need to use the jack handle (B) and both jack handle extensions (C). Attach the wheel wrench (D) to the jack handle extensions (C). Attach the jack handle (B) to the jack (A). Use the jacking pad (E) provided on the rear axle. Turn the wheel wrench (D) clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground.

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{ WARNING:

{ WARNING:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 7‑80 .

Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle's wheel could fall off, causing a crash.

8. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end

of the nuts toward the wheel after mounting the spare tire.

9. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the

wheel wrench to tighten the nuts until the wheel is held against the hub.

7. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces, and spare wheel.

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11. Tighten the nuts

firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise.

When you reinstall the regular wheel and tire, you must also reinstall the center cap. Line the tab on the back of the cap with the slot in the wheel. Place the cap on the wheel and press until it snaps into place.

10. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.

{ WARNING:

Wheel nuts that are improperly or incorrectly tightened can cause the wheels to become loose or come off. The wheel nuts should be tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification after replacing. Follow the torque specification supplied by the aftermarket manufacturer when using accessory locking wheel nuts. See Capacities and Specifications on page 7‑117 for original equipment wheel nut torque specifications.

Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 7‑117 for the wheel nut torque specification.

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Secondary Latch System Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle. For the secondary latch to work, the spare must be installed with the valve stem pointing down. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 7‑94 .

{ WARNING:

Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed next.

To release the spare tire from the secondary latch:

1. Check under the

vehicle to see if the cable end is visible. If the cable is not visible proceed to Step 6.

2.

If it is visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.

3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench

counterclockwise three or four turns.

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4. Repeat this procedure at least two times. If the

spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with Step 5 of Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 7‑81 . If the spare does not lower, turn the wrench counterclockwise until approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.

5.

6. Stand the wheel blocks on their shortest ends, with

the backs facing each other.

7. Place the bottom edge

of the jack (A) on the wheel blocks (B), separating them so that the jack is balanced securely.

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8. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheel

wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel blocks) under the vehicle toward the front of the rear bumper.

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{ WARNING: