2008 Cadillac Escalade Premium Owners Manual

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too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover. 4-19 (cid:129) (cid:129) Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you will want to consider a number of things: (cid:129) How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain vehicle control? (cid:129) What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel? (cid:129) Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders? (cid:129) What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks? If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help the brakes and they will not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times. There are also some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill: (cid:129) Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into NEUTRAL (N) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down. (cid:129) Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you cannot make it up the hill you must back straight down the hill. If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake, put the transmission in PARK (P) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. 4-20 {CAUTION: Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control. There some things not to do when driving down a hill. These are important because, if you ignore them, you could lose control and have a serious accident: (cid:129) When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you do not drive straight down. (cid:129) Never go downhill with the transmission in NEUTRAL (N). This is called “free wheeling.” The brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade. Your vehicle is much more likely to stall when going uphill. But if it happens when going downhill: 1. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes. Apply the parking brake. 2. Shift to PARK (P) and, while still braking, restart the engine. 3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight down. 4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help. 4-21 (cid:129) Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause the tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over. (cid:129) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more. For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. When driving across an incline that is not too steep, the vehicle can hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it. Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider: {CAUTION: Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead. (cid:129) A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover. 4-22 Stalling on an Incline {CAUTION: Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path. If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over. 4-23 Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer braking distances. It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not get stuck. When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control. {CAUTION: Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only. 4-24 Driving in Water {CAUTION: Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water. Heavy rain can mean ﬂash ﬂooding, and ﬂood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get through. Also, water that deep can damage the axle and other vehicle parts. If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. And, as long as the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When you go through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-27 for more information on driving through water. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a ﬁre hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information. 4-25 Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside rearview mirror. (cid:129) Slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles because your headlamps can only light up so much road ahead. (cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or curves. No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. 4-26 Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or ﬂowing water. {CAUTION: Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through ﬂowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through ﬂowing water. Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:129) Keep the windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir ﬁlled. (cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires on page 5-56. 4-27 Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows clean — inside and outside? (cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inﬂated to recommended pressure? (cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have up-to-date maps? Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, ﬁnd a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead and to the sides. (cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments often. 4-28 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on ﬂat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep your vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:129) Check all ﬂuid levels and brakes, tires, cooling system, and transmission. (cid:129) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a lower gear. {CAUTION: If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope. {CAUTION: Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill. (cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident). (cid:129) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-12 for information about driving off-road. 4-29 (cid:129) Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:129) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:129) You might want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle. Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer ﬂuid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a ﬂashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reﬂective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 5-56. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful. 4-30 What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. See StabiliTrak® System on page 4-6, If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-33, and Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-34. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4. (cid:129) Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. (cid:129) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ﬁne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers. If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on the hazard warning ﬂashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow. (cid:129) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, ﬂoor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. 4-31 (cid:129) (cid:129) {CAUTION: Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out. Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful. 4-32 Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-34. If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method. {CAUTION: If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment ﬁre or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-77. 4-33 Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. For vehicles with StabiliTrak®, turn the traction control part of the system off. See StabiliTrak® System on page 4-6. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. Or, you can use recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-41. Recovery Hooks {CAUTION: These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back. 4-34 Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. For vehicles with recovery hooks at the front of the vehicle, you can use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving. Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certiﬁcation/ Tire label. {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. 4-35 Tire and Loading Information Label Label Example A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will ﬁnd the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inﬂation pressures (D). 4-36 For more information on tires and inﬂation see Tires on page 5-56 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-62. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certiﬁcation/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certiﬁcation/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle. 3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs. 4. The resulting ﬁgure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be ﬁve 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-44 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips. Example 1 Item Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = Total 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 300 lbs (136 kg) 700 lbs (317 kg ) 4-37 Example 2 Example 3 Item Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight = Total Item 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 750 lbs (136 kg) 250 lbs (113 kg) Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight = Total 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 0 lbs (0 kg) Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. 4-38 Certiﬁcation/Tire Label A vehicle speciﬁc Certiﬁcation/Tire label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the inﬂation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certiﬁcation/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To ﬁnd out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the center line. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading. The label will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry. 4-39 Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going. {CAUTION: Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. (cid:129) Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly. (cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. CAUTION: (Continued) 4-40 CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. (cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. (cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to. There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving on page 4-12. Add-On Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you can carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle. Automatic Level Control The automatic level control rear suspension comes as a part of the Road Sensing Suspension. See Road Sensing Suspension on page 4-6. This type of level control is fully automatic and will provide a better leveled riding position as well as better handling under a variety of passenger and loading conditions. An air compressor connected to the rear shocks will raise or lower the rear of the vehicle to maintain proper vehicle height. The system is activated when the ignition key is turned to RUN and will automatically adjust vehicle height thereafter. The system may exhaust (lower vehicle height) for up to 10 minutes after the ignition key has been turned to LOCK. You may hear the air compressor operating when the height is being adjusted. If a weight-distributing hitch is being used, it is recommended to allow the shocks to inﬂate, thereby leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the height. See “Weight distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches” under Towing a Trailer on page 4-44. Towing Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Service on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see Recreational Vehicle Towing following. 4-41 Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing”, following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations. (cid:129) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. (cid:129) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-28. 4-42 Dinghy Towing and Dolly Towing All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle if any of its wheels will be on the ground. Your vehicle is not designed to be towed with any of the wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-41. Dinghy Towing Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. (cid:129) If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with Dolly Towing Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles (Rear Wheels Off the Ground) Notice: the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. Two-wheel-drive vehicles can be towed on a dolly with the front wheels on the ground provided that the wheels are straight. Use the following procedure to dolly tow your vehicle: 1. Drive the vehicle up onto the tow dolly. 2. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 3. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 4. Firmly set the parking brake. 5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow dolly. Autoride® The Autoride® feature provides improved vehicle ride and handling under a variety of passenger and loading conditions. The system is fully automatic and uses a computer controller to continuously monitor vehicle speed, wheel to body position, lift/dive and steering position of the vehicle. The controller then sends signals to each shock absorber to independently adjust the damping level to provide the optimum vehicle ride. Autoride® also interacts with the tow/haul mode that, when activated, will provide additional control of the shock absorbers. This additional control results in better ride and handling characteristics when the vehicle is loaded or towing a trailer. See “Tow/Haul Mode” under Towing a Trailer on page 4-44 for more information. 6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is ﬁrmly attached to the towing vehicle. 4-43 Towing a Trailer Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See New Vehicle Break-In on page 2-24 for more information. {CAUTION: If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. 4-44 If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. (cid:129) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later in this section. (cid:129) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. (cid:129) You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). See “Tow/Haul Mode” next. Three important considerations have to do with weight: the weight of the trailer the weight of the trailer tongue and the weight on your vehicle’s tires Tow/Haul Mode Tow/haul is designed to assist while your vehicle is pulling a large or heavy load or trailer. Tow/haul is most useful while pulling such a load in rolling terrain, in stop-and-go traffic, or when you need improved low-speed control, such as when parking. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to do the following: (cid:129) Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. (cid:129) Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. 4-45 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Tow/haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” later in this section. The vehicle will automatically turn off tow/haul every time it is started. Driving with tow/haul activated without a heavy load or with no trailer will cause reduced fuel economy and unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics, but will not cause damage. Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no beneﬁt to the selection of tow/haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Press this button at the end of the shift lever to enable/disable the tow/haul mode. A light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that tow/haul mode has been selected. 4-46 Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Use the following chart to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options. Axle Ratio Vehicle 13,000 lbs (5 897 kg) Escalade 2WD 6.2L 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) Escalade AWD 6.2L Escalade ESV AWD 6.2L 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg) *The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. 8,000 lbs (3 629 kg) 7,900 lbs (3 583 kg) 7,900 lbs (3 583 kg) Max. Trailer Wt. 3.42 3.42 3.42 *GCWR Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-5 for more information. 4-47 Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 600 lbs (272 kg) with a weight carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to the maximum of 1,000 lbs (454 kg) with a weight distributing hitch. Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. 4-48 Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be: gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs: You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). But let’s say your speciﬁc vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). 4-49 It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll ﬁnd these numbers on the Certiﬁcation label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. 4-50 Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches (A) Body-to-Ground Distance (B) Front of Vehicle When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle. If you use a step-bumper hitch, the bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper. If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when driving. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Hitch Cover Your vehicle may have a hitch cover. To remove the hitch cover: 1. Turn the fasteners on the lower tabs 90 degrees counterclockwise. 2. Lift the lower edge of the cover about 45 degrees. 3. Pull the cover downward to disengage the upper attachments. To reinstall the hitch cover: 1. Hold the cover at a 45 degree angle to the vehicle and push the upper tabs in the hitch cover into the chrome slots in the fascia. 2. Move the bottom of the cover forward until the lower tabs line up with the lower fascia slots. 3. Snap the hitch cover into place by pushing the upper corners forward. 4. Turn the fasteners on the lower tabs 90 degrees clockwise to lock the cover in place. 4-51 Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. If you are towing a trailer up to 5,000 lbs (900 kg) with a factory-installed step bumper, you may attach the safety chains to the attaching points on the bumper. If you are towing a trailer up to your vehicle’s trailer rating limit, you may attach the safety chains to the attaching point on the hitch platform. If you are towing with an aftermarket hitch, follow the trailer or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes — and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. 4-52 Driving with a Trailer {CAUTION: If you have a rear-most window open and you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can not see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-39. To maximize your safety when towing a trailer: (cid:129) Have your exhaust system inspected for leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip. (cid:129) Keep the rear-most windows closed. If exhaust does come into your vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use the climate control setting for maximum air because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. See Dual Automatic Climate Control System on page 3-26. (cid:129) Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. 4-53 You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode” earlier. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant at higher altitudes will boil at a lower temperature than at or near sea level. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for at least ﬁve minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also ﬂash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). 4-54 Parking on Hills {CAUTION: You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet. 2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P). 5. Release the regular brakes. When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you: start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake. 2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission ﬂuid (don’t overﬁll), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you ﬁnd them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. 4-55 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Trailer Wiring Harness Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package Your vehicle is equipped with the seven-wire trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to the rear bumper beam. It is located next to the integrated trailer hitch. The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Taillamps (cid:129) White: Ground Light Green: Back-up Lamps (cid:129) Red w/ Black Stripe: Battery Feed* (cid:129) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake* *The fuses for these two circuits are installed in the underhood electrical center, but the circuits are not connected. They should be installed by your dealer or a qualiﬁed service center. If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, press the tow/haul mode button located at the end of the shift lever. This will boost the vehicle system voltage and properly charge the battery. 4-56 (cid:129) Electric Brake Control Wiring Provisions These wiring provisions are included with your vehicle as part of the heavy-duty trailer wiring package. These provisions are for an electric brake controller. The red/black stripe power feed will not be connected to the battery until the ring terminal is unstowed and connected to the underhood electrical center. The instrument panel contains blunt cut wires near the data link connector for the trailer brake controller. The harness contains the following wires: (cid:129) Dark Blue: Auxiliary (cid:129) Red/Black: Battery Light Blue/White: Brake Switch (cid:129) White: Ground It should be installed by your dealer/retailer or a qualiﬁed service center. Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But you can ﬁgure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-44. 4-57 (cid:129) ✍ NOTES 4-58 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ............................................................5-3 Accessories and Modiﬁcations ..........................5-3 California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-3 California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4 Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle ......................................................5-4 Fuel ................................................................5-5 Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-5 California Fuel ...............................................5-5 Additives .......................................................5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-6 Filling the Tank ..............................................5-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10 Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10 Hood Release ..............................................5-11 Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12 Engine Oil ...................................................5-14 Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-16 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-17 Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-20 Engine Coolant .............................................5-24 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-26 Engine Overheating .......................................5-26 Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode ........................................5-28 Cooling System ............................................5-29 Engine Fan Noise .........................................5-33 Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-34 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-35 Brakes ........................................................5-36 Battery ........................................................5-39 Jump Starting ...............................................5-40 All-Wheel Drive ..............................................5-45 Rear Axle .......................................................5-46 Front Axle ......................................................5-47 Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-48 Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-51 High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting ............5-51 Back-Up Lamps ............................................5-51 License Plate Lamp ......................................5-53 Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-53 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-54 Tires ..............................................................5-56 Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-57 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions .....................5-59 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-62 High-Speed Operation ...................................5-63 Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-64 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-65 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-69 When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-71 Buying New Tires .........................................5-72 Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-73 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-74 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-75 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-76 Tire Chains ..................................................5-77 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-78 Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-79 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-80 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire ................................................5-85 Secondary Latch System ...............................5-90 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-94 Spare Tire ...................................................5-98 Appearance Care ............................................5-98 Interior Cleaning ...........................................5-98 Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-100 Leather ......................................................5-100 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces .................................................5-101 Wood Panels ..............................................5-101 Speaker Covers ..........................................5-101 Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-101 5-2 Weatherstrips .............................................5-101 Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-102 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-102 Finish Care ................................................5-102 Windshield, Backglass, and Wiper Blades .......5-103 Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels and Trim ................................................5-104 Tires .........................................................5-105 Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-105 Finish Damage ...........................................5-105 Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-105 Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-105 Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ................5-106 Vehicle Identiﬁcation .....................................5-107 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) ................5-107 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label ...................5-107 Electrical System ..........................................5-108 Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-108 Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-108 Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-108 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-108 Instrument Panel Fuse Block ........................5-109 Center Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..............5-110 Underhood Fuse Block ................................5-111 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-115 Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: Accessories and Modiﬁcations When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-90. California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. 5-3 If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-14. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-90. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-17. Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless entry transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate. Doing Your Own Service Work {CAUTION: You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. 5-4 Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Gasoline Octane Use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information. California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-43. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty. 5-5 Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 5-6 Filling the Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 5-7 While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. {CAUTION: Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. To open the fuel door, push the rearward center edge inboard and release. The door will pop open. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-102. 5-8 When replacing the fuel cap, insert the tether in its hole before tightening the cap. Turn the fuel cap clockwise until it clicks. It will require more effort to turn the fuel cap on the last turn as you tighten it. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-43. If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the TIGHTEN GAS CAP message will be displayed if the fuel cap is not properly installed. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-43. 5-9 Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:129) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while pumping fuel. Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-10 Hood Release To open the hood do the following: 1. Pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle to the lower left of the steering wheel. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and locate the secondary hood release, near the center of the grille. 3. Push the secondary hood release to the right. 4. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then bring the hood from full open to within 6 inches (152 mm) from the closed position, pause, then push the front center of the hood with a swift, ﬁrm motion to fully close the hood. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 6.2L engine this is what you will see: 5-12 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-17. B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-17. C. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-29 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-26. D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-40. E. Battery. See Battery on page 5-39. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-14. G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-20. H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND) (Out of View). See Jump Starting on page 5-40. I. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-14. J. Engine Cooling Fan (Out of View). See Cooling System on page 5-29. K. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Out of View). See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-34. L. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-36. M. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-111. N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35. 5-13 Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. When to Add Engine Oil This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-115. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. 5-14 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things: (cid:129) GM4718M Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identiﬁed as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. If you use oils that do not have the Notice: GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:129) Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. 5-15 Your vehicle’s engine is ﬁlled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all you need for good performance and engine protection. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. 5-16 Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Engine Oil Life System: 1. Display the OIL LIFE REMAINING on the DIC. 2. Press and hold the SET/RESET button on the DIC for more than ﬁve seconds. The oil life will change to 100%. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the Engine Oil Life System has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter and the air ﬁlter restriction indicator, if the vehicle has one. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter If your vehicle has an air ﬁlter restriction indicator, it lets you know when the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter needs to be replaced. On vehicles with a restriction indicator, you should inspect the air ﬁlter restriction indicator at every oil change and replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter when the indicator tells you to. On vehicles without an air ﬁlter restriction indicator, inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. 5-17 How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Vehicles With an Air Filter Restriction Indicator Locate the air ﬁlter restriction indicator on the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter cover. When the indicator turns black or is in the red/orange “change” zone, replace the ﬁlter and reset the indicator. See the steps following to replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter and to reset the air ﬁlter restriction indicator. Vehicles Without an Air Filter Restriction Indicator To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter from the vehicle by following Steps 1 through 6. When you have the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter removed, lightly shake it to release loose dust and dirt. If the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. Replacing the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator 1. Locate the air cleaner/ﬁlter assembly. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12. 2. Loosen the four screws on the cover of the housing and lift up the cover. 5-18 3. Remove the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible. 4. Clean the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter sealing surfaces and the housing. 5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 6. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. 7. Reset the air ﬁlter restriction indicator, if the vehicle has one, by pressing the top button on the indicator. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. 5-19 Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid It is usually not necessary to check the transmission ﬂuid level. The only reason for ﬂuid loss is a transmission leak or overheating the transmission. If you suspect a small leak, then use the following checking procedures to check the ﬂuid level. However, if there is a large leak, then it may be necessary to have the vehicle towed to a dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired before driving the vehicle further. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in the Maintenance Schedule. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Be sure to use the transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to

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2008 Cadillac Escalade Premium Owners Manual