2004 Cadillac CTS Owners Manual

clean as well as washer fluid.

• Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters

full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

• Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See EngineCompartmentOverviewon page5-12 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

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If the ignition is in ON and the brake fluid is low, the “Check Brake Fluid” message will be displayed in the DIC. See “Check Brake Fluid Message” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page3-61. When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See BrakeSystemWarning Light on page3-39. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page6-13. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: • Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

• If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted

surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See AppearanceCareonpage5-86.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

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{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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After a power loss, such as disconnecting the battery or removing the maxi fuses in the power distribution fuse block, the following steps must be performed to calibrate the electronic throttle control. If this is not done, the engine will not run properly. 1. Turn the ignition key to ON. Do not start the engine. 2. Leave the ignition in ON for at least three minutes so that the electronic throttle control will cycle and re-learn its home position.

3. Turn the ignition to OFF. 4. Start and run the engine for at least 30 seconds. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-DeterrentFeature on page3-117.

Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco® battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery. See EngineCompartmentOverviewon page5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See JumpStartingonpage5-45
for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

• They contain acid that can burn you. • They contain gas that can explode or ignite. • They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

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{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (- ) terminal locations on each vehicle. See EngineCompartmentOverview onpage5-12 for more information on location of the battery.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

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{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could also be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (- ) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (- ) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Notice: If you connect a negative cable to the ECM, ECM mounting bracket or any cables that attach to the ECM bracket, you may damage the ECM. Attach the negative cable to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, other than the ECM, ECM bracket or cables attached to the ECM bracket.

Don’t connect positive (+) to the negative (- ) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (- ) cable to negative (- ) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

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7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black

negative (- ) cable to the negative terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (- ) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (- ) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (- ) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

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9. Connect the other end

of the negative (- ) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that has the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Notice: If the jumper cables are removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (- ) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (- ) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

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Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See RecommendedFluids and Lubricants on page6-13.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Headlamps It is recommended that this component be replaced as a unit. See your dealer.

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulb, see Replacement Bulbs on page5-55. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting Your vehicle may be equipped with HID headlamps.

{CAUTION:

The low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer or a qualified technician service them.

Your vehicle may have HID headlamps. After your vehicle’s HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal.

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Front Turn Signal and Fog Lamps

A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Fog Lamp

1. Remove the protection shield located on the

underside of the front of the vehicle by pulling out the push-pins located on the underside of the protection shield.

2. Reach up behind the front bumper area from under

the vehicle to access the lamp housing.

3. Remove the bulb socket from the housing by

turning the bulb socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise.

4. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by

lifting the two plastic clips.

5. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket keeping the

bulb straight as you pull it out.

6. Install a new bulb. 7. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) It is recommended that this component be replaced as a unit. See your dealer.

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3. Remove the four convenience net wing nuts. 4. Pull the carpet back away from the body of the

vehicle on the side with the burned out bulb.

5. Remove the two mounting screws from the lamp

assembly.

6. Pull out the lamp assembly to expose the bulb

sockets.

7. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn

counterclockwise and pull the bulb and socket out of the lamp reflector.

8. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket keeping the

bulb straight as you pull it out.

9. Install a new bulb. 10. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.

Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Sidemarker Lamps

A. Tail and Stop Lamps B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Side-Marker Lamp

1. Open the trunk using the trunk button on the remote keyless entry transmitter or the trunk release button located on the lower part of the driver’s door.

2. Remove the compact spare tire cover by turning the

wing nut counterclockwise.

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Back-Up and License Plate Lamps

A. Back-Up Lamps B. License Plate Lamps 1. Open the trunk using the trunk button on the remote keyless entry transmitter or the trunk release button located on the lower part of the driver’s door.

2. Remove the cloth cover on the trunk lid by pulling

out the three push-pins located on the underside of the trunk lid.

3. Remove the eight mounting nuts from the underside of the trunk lid by turning the nuts counterclockwise.

4. Pull the lamp assembly away from the vehicle

to expose the bulb sockets.

5. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn

counterclockwise and pull the bulb and socket out of the lamp reflector.

6. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket keeping the

bulb straight as you pull it out.

7. Install a new bulb. 8. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.

Replacement Bulbs For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer.

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Back-Up Lamps Fog Lamps Front and Rear Turn Signal Lamps License Plate Lamps Rear Sidemarker Lamps Stoplamps Taillamps

3157K 9145

3157K

W5WLL 3157K 3157K 3157K

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3. Pull the windshield wiper assembly away from the

windshield.

4. Lift the wiper blade assembly up so it is in a

T-shaped position. You should be able to see a tab.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See OwnerChecks and Services on page6-10. It’s a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly on a regular basis or when worn. For proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page6-15. To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to ON with the engine off. 2. Turn on the windshield wipers and turn them off

again when the wipers are in the out-wipe position. The driver’s side blade will be straight up and down on the windshield.

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Notice: Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 5. Squeeze the tab together and pull the wiper blade

assembly down far enough to release it from the J-hooked end of the wiper arm. Slide the assembly away from the arm.

6. Replace the blade with a new one.

7. Reinstall the wiper blade assembly by sliding it over the wiper arm to engage the J-hooked end. Pull up on the assembly to lock it into place. 8. Repeat the steps for the other wiper.

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

• Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

• Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

• Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

• Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. All season tires provide good overall performance on most surfaces but they may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. If you choose to use winter tires: • Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all

four wheel positions.

• Use only radial ply tires of the same size as your

original equipment tires.

See Buying New Tires on page5-68. Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger car tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger Car Tire Example

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(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page5-69.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation-TirePressure onpage5-66 and LoadingYourVehicleonpage4-33.

(A) Tire Size Code: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) Department of Transportation (DOT): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

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(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. See CompactSpareTireon page5-85 and IfaTireGoesFlatonpage5-73.

(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. See CompactSpareTire onpage5-85 and LoadingYourVehicleonpage4-33.

Compact Spare Tire Example

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(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page5-66.

(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter “T” as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.

(G) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger car tire size.

(A) P-Metric Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “P” as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

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(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is “70,” as shown in item “C” of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70% as high as it is wide.

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D” means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from “A” to “Z”.

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

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Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page5-66. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page4-33. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page4-33. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page4-33. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. There are 6.9 kPa’s to one psi.

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Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg). See LoadingYourVehicleonpage4-33.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of a asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand and or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation-TirePressure onpage5-66 and LoadingYourVehicleonpage4-33.

Radial Ply tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 2/32 inch of tread remains. See WhenIt Is Time for New Tires on page5-68.

UTQGS: Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards, a tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See UniformTireQuality Grading on page5-69.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs. (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See LoadingYourVehicle on page4-33.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See Loading Your Vehicle on page4-33.

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Inflation - Tire Pressure The tire and loading information label, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). See LoadingYourVehicleonpage4-33, for the location of your vehicle’s tire and loading information label. Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: • Too much flexing • Too much heat • Tire overloading • Bad wear • Bad handling • Bad fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: • Unusual wear • Bad handling • Rough ride • Needless damage from road hazards

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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See WhenItIsTime forNewTiresonpage5-68 and WheelReplacement on page5-71 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See ScheduledMaintenance on page6-4, for scheduled rotation intervals.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.

Don’t include the spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacitiesand Specifications on page5-106.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

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Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires your vehicle needs, look at the tire and loading information label. For more information about this label and its location on your vehicle, see LoadingYourVehicleonpage4-33. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, load range, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: • You can see the indicators at three or more places

• You can see cord or fabric showing through the

around the tire.

tire’s rubber.

• The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged

deep enough to show cord or fabric. • The tire has a bump, bulge or split. • The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the index.

{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

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Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See ChangingaFlatTireonpage5-74 for more information.

5-71

Used Replacement Wheels

Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Don’t use tire chains. There’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-73

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

{CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in

PARK (P), or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).

3. Turn off the engine.

Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

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The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk. To gain access to the spare tire and jacking equipment, do the following:

1. Turn the center nut on the compact spare tire cover counterclockwise to remove it. Then remove the cover.

2. Turn the nut holding the jack counterclockwise and remove it. Then remove the jack and wheel wrench.

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3. Remove the compact spare tire. See Compact

SpareTireonpage5-85 for more information about the compact spare tire.

4. The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) and

the wheel wrench (B).

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Removing Wheel Covers and Wheel Nut Caps

If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to remove the caps.

If your vehicle has wheel covers, use the flat end of the wheel wrench to remove the covers. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to gently pry off the wheel cover. Be careful not to scratch the aluminum wheel edge and don’t try to remove the wheel cover with your hands.

5-77

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

1. Place the wheel wrench (A) securely over the wheel nut (B). Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet.

2. Find the jacking location using the diagram above and corresponding hoisting notches located in the plastic molding. The notches in the plastic molding are marked with a triangle shape to help you find them. The front location (A) is about 14 inches (35.6 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel well, and the rear location (B) is about 7 inches (17.8 cm) from the front edge of the rear wheel well.

5-78

{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

{CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

3. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack. 4. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the jack lift head until the jack fits under the vehicle.

5. Raise the jack by turning the wheel wrench

clockwise until the slots in the jack head fit into the metal flange located behind the triangle on the plastic molding as shown.

6. Put the compact spare tire near you. 7. Raise the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the compact spare tire to fit under the vehicle.

8. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

{CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

9. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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10. Place the compact

spare tire on the wheel-mounting surface.

11. Put the wheel nuts back

on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each wheel nut by turning it clockwise with your hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

12. Lower the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench

counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

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13. Tighten the wheel nuts

firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index for wheel nut torque specification.

Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the index for the wheel nut torque specification. Notice: Wheel covers will not fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare. Don’t try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

{CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

5-82

Storing the Flat Tire and Tools

Storing the Spare Tire and Tools

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

After you’ve put the compact spare tire on your vehicle, you’ll need to store the flat tire in your trunk. Remove the foam support so that the flat tire will fit in the storage area. Place the flat tire with the appearance side face down and store the jack container in the center of the tire. See the diagram in “Storing the Spare Tire and Tools” following for more information.

The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can.

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Use the following diagram as a guide for storing the compact spare tire in the trunk:

A. Compact Spare Tire Cover Wing Nut B. Compact Spare Tire Cover C. Plastic Wing Nut D. Retainer E. Jack Container with Wheel Wrench and Jack F. Flat Road Tire G. Compact Spare Tire H. Foam Insert I. Bolt J. Wheel Wrench K. Jack L. Jack Container

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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

Notice: When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

5-85

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you are cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: • Gasoline • Benzene • Naphtha • Carbon Tetrachloride • Acetone • Paint Thinner • Turpentine • Lacquer Thinner • Nail Polish Remover

They can all be hazardous — some more than others — and they can all damage your vehicle, too. Do not use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: • Alcohol • Laundry Soap • Bleach • Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You and get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See VehicleCare/AppearanceMaterialson page5-92.

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Here are some cleaning tips: • Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. • Clean up stains as soon as you can — before they

set.

• Carefully scrape off any excess stain. • Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean

area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

• If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean

the entire area immediately or it will set.

Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. • Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.

You may have to do this more than once.

• Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if

you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. • For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. • Neveruse oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

• Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.

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Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

{CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page6-13.

Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use on a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Cleaning Wood Panels Use a clean cloth moistened in warm, soapy water (use mild dish washing soap). Dry the wood immediately with a clean cloth. Cleaning the Speaker Covers Vacuum around a speaker cover gently, so that the speaker won’t be damaged. Clean spots with just water and mild soap. Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See VehicleCare/AppearanceMaterialsonpage5-92. Notice: If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger and the integrated radio antenna. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner.

5-88

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Do not wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See VehicleCare/AppearanceMaterialsonpage5-92. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See VehicleCare/Appearance Materials on page5-92. Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish on your vehicle.

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Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels Your vehicle may be equipped with either aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Do not use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Cleaning Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.

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Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on your vehicle may damage the paint finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on your vehicle.

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.

Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials avaliable from your dealer. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.

Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

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Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing the following products.

Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

Description

Usage

Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish White Sidewall Tire Cleaner

Vinyl Cleaner

Glass Cleaner

Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner

Finish Enhancer

5-92

Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil and asphalt. Use on chrome or stainless steel. Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints. Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers. Removes dust, fingerprints, and surface contaminants. Spray on wipe off.

Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

(cont’d)

Description

Usage

Swirl Remover Polish

Cleaner Wax

Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss

Wash Wax Concentrate

Spot Lifter

Odor Eliminator

Removes swirl marks, fine scratches and other light surface contamination. Removes light scratches and protects finish. Cleans, shines and protects in one easy step, no wiping necessary. Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free. Quickly and easily removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl and cloth upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet.

See your General Motors parts department for these products. See RecommendedFluidsandLubricants onpage6-13.

Vehicle Identification

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.

Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label in the trunk. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: • your VIN, • the model designation, • paint information and • a list of all production options and special equipment Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle. Electrical System

Add-On Electrical Equipment Notice: Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see Servicing YourAirBag-EquippedVehicleonpage1-58.

5-93

Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by an internal circuit breaker. If the wiper motor overheats due to heavy snow, the wipers will stop until the motor cools and will then restart.

Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers protect the power windows and power seats. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.

Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If a fuse blows, see your dealer for service immediately. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can “borrow” one that has the same amperage. Pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without – like the radio or cigarette lighter – and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can. The fuses are located in three fuse blocks, one located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side and the other two under the rear seat.

5-94

Underhood Fuse Block

The underhood fuse block is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See EngineCompartmentOverviewonpage5-12
for more information on location. To access the fuses, push in the two tabs located on each side of the fuse block cover. Then lift the cover off.

Relays

LO SPEED FAN RELAY

MINI

Usage

Low Speed Fan Motor

HI SPEED FAN RELAY MINI High Speed Fan Motor ACCESSORY RELAY MINI

Accessory Power Outlets

5-95

Usage

Relays

Usage

FOG LAMP

RELAY MICRO Fog Lamps MAIN RELAY

Powertrain/ECM

Starter Solenoid

MICRO

STARTER RELAY MINI CMP CLU

RELAY MICRO Compressor Clutch IGN-1 RELAY

Ignition Switch (ON)

MICRO

Wiring

Harnesses

Usage

BODY W/H Wiring Harness Connection

I/P W/H

Wiring Harness Connection

ENG W/H

Engine Wiring Harness Connection

FORWARD

LAMP

Forward Lamp Wiring Harness Connection

Series/Parallel Fan

RELAY MINI PARK LAMP RELAY MICRO Parking Lamps HORN RELAY

Horn

Relays S/P FAN

MICRO HI BEAM

RELAY MICRO High-Beam Headlamps DRL RELAY MICRO-OPT Daytime Running Lamps LO BEAM RELAY/HID MINI-OPT

Low-Beam HID Headlamps (Option)

HDLP WASH

RELAY

MINI-OPT

Headlamp Washer Motor (Option)

CIGAR

RELAY MINI Cigarette Lighter (Option) BLOWER

Front Blower

RELAY MINI

5-96

J Cases

R REAR

R REAR

L REAR

L REAR

Usage

RRPDB (Passenger’s Side Rear Power Distribution Box)

RRPDB (Passenger’s Side Rear Power Distribution Box)

LRPDB (Driver’s Side Rear Power Distribution Box)

LRPDB (Driver’s Side Rear Power Distribution Box)

HI FAN

High Cooling Fan Motor

LO FAN

Low Cooling Fan Motor

BLOWER

PWM Fan Motor Assembly

STARTER

Starter Solenoid

EBCM

Electronic Brake Control Module

Fuses

RT PARK

Usage

Passenger’s Side Taillamp Assembly, Front Sidemarker and Front Parking Lamp Assembly

HORN

Dual Horn Assembly

LT HI BEAM Driver’s Side High-Beam Headlamp

LT LOW BEAM Driver’s Side Low-Beam Headlamp RT LOW BEAM Passenger’s Side Low-Beam

Headlamp

RT HI BEAM Passenger’s Side High-Beam

Headlamp

SPARE

SPARE

THEFT

Not Used

Not Used

ECM (Electronic Control Module), TCM (Transmission Control Module), PASS-Key® III+ Module

5-97

Fuses

LT PARK

Usage

Driver’s Side Taillamp Assembly, Front Sidemarker and Front Parking Lamp Assembly

LIC/DIMMING Rear License Plate Assembly, DIM

DIM/ALDL

DIM, ALDL (Assembly Line Data Link)

Fuses

ECM

TCM/IPC

Usage

Electronic Control Module

TCM, ECM and IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster)

SPARE

Not Used

IGN MOD

Front Bank Ignition Modules

FLASHER

Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher Module

ELEC PRNDL Electronic PRNDL

MANIFOLD

Manifold Flaps 1 and 2, Air Mass Meter, Canister Purge Valve

STRG CTLS

Steering Wheel Control Pad, Headlamp Switch

HTR VLV/

CLTCH

Heater Valve, Clutch Switch (Normal Closed), Clutch Switch (Normal Open), Jumper to Start Relay Coil for Automatic Transmission

WASH NOZ

Driver’s and Passenger’s Side Heated Washer Nozzles

ECM/TCM

5-98

TCC/ET

TCC/ET Brake Switch (Extended Travel), TCC/ET Brake Switch (Cruise Disable)

STOP LP SW Stoplamp Switch

IGN SW

Ignition Switch (Power to IGN-3 and CRANK)

VOLT CHECK DIM (Dash Integration Module)

TCM (Transmission Control Module), ECM (Electronic Control Module), IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster), PASS-Key® III+ Module

Fuses

Usage

WPR MOD Windshield Wiper Module Assembly

INJ

Fuel Injectors

COMP CLUTCH Compressor Clutch

WPR SW

Windshield Wiper/Washer Switch

FOG LAMP

Fog Lamps

OUTLET

Center Console Accessory Power Outlet

POST 02

Driver’s and Passenger’s Side Oxygen Sensors, LRPDB (Pusher Cooling Fan Relay)

I/P OUTLET

Instrument Panel Accessory Power Outlet

Fuses

CCP

PRE 02

SPARE

SPARE

SPARE

Usage

Climate Control

Driver’s and Passenger’s Side Oxygen Sensors, Transmission Output Speed Sensor

Not Used

Not Used

Not Used

Circuit Breakers

HDLP WASH

C/B-OPT

Usage

Headlamp Washer Motor (Optional)

5-99

Removing the Rear Seat Cushion Notice: If, when removing or reinstalling the rear seat, you do not do it carefully, you could damage the fuse center. Avoid contact between the rear seat and the fuse center whenever you remove or reinstall the rear seat. To remove the rear seat cushion, do the following: 1. Pull up on the front of the cushion to release the

front hooks.

2. Pull the cushion up and out toward the front of the

vehicle.

3. Slide the cushion out one of the rear doors and set

it aside.

5-100

Rear Pass-Through Seat

CAUTION: