2003 Cadillac CTS Owners Manual

the display above the pushbuttons, in place of the preset stations (if programmed).

LOAD: Press the LOAD button to load CDs into the compact disc player. This compact disc player will hold up to six discs. To insert one disc, do the following: 1. The ignition and the radio can be on or off. 2. Press and release the LOAD button. Please Wait will

appear on the display.

3. Load the disc, when the display reads INSERT. Insert a disc partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull the disc in.

When a disc is inserted, the CD symbol, the number of the CD and the track number will be displayed if the radio is on. If the radio is on, the disc will begin to play automatically. To insert multiple discs, do the following: 1. The ignition and the radio can be on or off. 2. Press and hold the LOAD button for two seconds.

You will hear a beep and the display will read Please Wait.

3. Once the display reads INSERT, load a disc. Insert a disc partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull the disc in. Do not load a CD until the display reads INSERT. The disc player will take up to six discs. Do not try to load more than six. If you want to load less than six discs, load the desired amount. The disc player will time out when it does not receive any more discs and the last disc loaded will begin to play.

If the radio is on, the last disc loaded will begin to play automatically. The following explains what each pushbutton and the SEEK and SCAN buttons will perform when a CD is playing: F1 DISC # (Down): Press this pushbutton to seek to the previous compact disc. F2 DISC " (Up): Press this pushbutton to seek to the next compact disc. CD REV % (Reverse): Press this pushbutton to seek to the previous track on the compact disc. Press and hold this pushbutton to reverse the compact disc. Release it to return to playing speed.

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CD FWD & (Forward): Press this pushbutton to seek to the next track on the compact disc. Press and hold this pushbutton to fast forward to another part of the compact disc. Release it to return to playing speed. F5 MODE: Press this pushbutton to select from NORMAL, RPT TRCK (Repeat Track), RPT DISC (Repeat Disc), RDM TRK (Random Track), and RDM ALL (Random All Discs). D NORMAL: Sets the system for normal play of the

compact disc(s). NORMAL will not be displayed when in this mode.

D RPT TRCK (Repeat Track): Repeats the track that you are currently listening to again. RPT TRCK will appear on the display. Press the MODE pushbutton again to turn off repeat play. RPT TRCK will disappear from the display.

D RPT DISC (Repeat Disc): Repeats the disc that you

are currently listening to again. RPT DISC will appear on the display. Press the MODE pushbutton again to turn off repeat play. RPT DISC will disappear from the display.

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D RDM TRK (Random Track): Plays the tracks on the current disc in random, rather than sequential, order. RDM TRK will appear on the display. Press the MODE pushbutton again to turn off random play. RDM TRK will disappear from the display.

D RDM ALL (Random All Discs): Plays all of the discs

loaded and tracks in random, rather than sequential, order. RDM ALL will appear on the display. Press the MODE pushbutton again to turn off random play. RDM ALL will disappear from the display.

F6 DISP (Display): Press this pushbutton to display the time of the track. Press this pushbutton again to display CD PLAY and press this pushbutton once more to clear the display. Y SEEK B: Press the up or the down arrow to seek to the next or to the previous track on the CD. Y SCAN: Press this button to listen to each track for 10 seconds. The compact disc will go to a track, play for 10 seconds, then go on to the next track. Press this button again to stop scanning.

(Eject): Press and release this button, located to the

right of the CD slot, to eject the CD that is currently playing, or press and hold this button (you will hear a beep) to eject all of the CDs loaded. Eject may be activated with the radio off and/or the ignition off.

Compact Disc Messages If the disc comes out, it could be for one of the following reasons: D If you’re driving on a very rough road. When the

road becomes smooth the disc should play.

D If it’s very hot. When the temperature returns to

normal, the disc should play.

D The disc is dirty, scratched, wet or upside down. D The air is very humid. If so, wait about an hour and

try again.

If the CD is not playing correctly, for any other reason, try a known good CD. If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error can’t be corrected, contact your dealer.

Configurable Radio Display Keys This feature allows you to customize the four keys that are located on each side of the radio display to make it easier to adjust the radio features. The following are the features that can be programmed: D Digital Signal Processing (DSP) (Bose system only), D Automatic Volume Control (AVC)

(Bose system only),

D Home or Away presets, D Autostore presets, D Equalization settings, D Local/Distance Selection, D Program Type (PTY), D Traffic Announcements, D Alternate frequency, and D RDS Messages To learn more about these features, see each one previously.

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To program the configurable radio display keys, perform the following steps: 1. Press the TUNE/SEL knob to enter the main menu. 2. Turn the TUNE/SEL knob until SETUP is displayed. 3. Press the TUNE/SEL knob to enter into SETUP. 4. Turn the TUNE/SEL knob until CONFIGURE

DISPLAY KEYS is displayed.

5. Press the TUNE/SEL knob to enter into

CONFIGURE DISPLAY KEYS.

6. Turn the TUNE/SEL knob to select which of the four configurable keys you would like to change. The currently assigned feature will be shown.

7. Press the TUNE/SEL knob to select the configurable

key to change.

8. Turn the TUNE/SEL knob to find the feature that

you would like to store to the key.

9. Press the TUNE/SEL knob when you have found the

feature to be stored. The display will update, by showing the symbol of the feature that you selected next to the configurable key.

10. Repeat the previous steps for each configurable key. Once a feature is programmed to a key, the feature will not appear on the display when programming the remaining configurable keys. The configurable keys can be changed at any time.

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Navigation/Radio System (Option)

Navigation/Radio Display and Controls The display screen is located in the center of the instrument panel.

Your vehicle may be equipped with an AM-FM radio navigation radio system that includes digital sound processing (DSP), Radio Data System (RDS) with program type selections (PTY) that will seek out the kind of music you want to listen to. The radio system can also communicate with your navigation system to broadcast announcements on traffic, weather and emergency alert communications. For information on how to use this system, see the “Navigation/Radio System” supplement. Theft-Deterrent Feature THEFTLOCKR is designed to discourage theft of your radio. Your vehicle has a “built-in” theft-deterrent feature on each radio that is automatic -- there is no programming required. The radio in your vehicle cannot be used in any other vehicle. When the radio was originally installed in your vehicle at the factory, it stored the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Each time the ignition is turned on, the VIN is verified. If the vehicle’s VIN does not match the VIN stored in the radio, THEFTLOCK will be activated and the audio system will not play. If the radio is removed from your vehicle, the original VIN in the radio can be used to trace the radio back to your vehicle.

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Audio Steering Wheel Controls Some audio controls can be adjusted at the steering wheel. They include the following:

Volume: Turning the knob increases and decreases volume.

(Mute): Press this button to silence the system. Press it again to turn on the sound. If your vehicle has the Navigation system, this button does not have a mute function.

See “Reconfigurable Steering Wheel Controls (SWC)” in the Index for more information on this feature.

(Band/Source): Press this button to select AM,

FM1, FM2 or a source, either radio, cassette tape or CD. The cassette or CD must be loaded to play. Available loaded sources are shown on the display as a tape or a CD symbol. (For vehicles with the six-disc changer radio - If none of the audio sources are loaded, and this button is pressed, NO SOURCE LOADED will appear on the display.)

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Understanding Radio Reception

AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it.

FM Stereo FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go.

Cellular Phone Usage Cellular phone usage may cause interference with your vehicle’s radio. This interference may occur when making or receiving phone calls, charging the phone’s battery or simply having the phone “on”. This interference is described as an increased level of static while listening to the radio. If you notice static while listening to the radio, unplug the cellular phone and turn if off.

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Tips About Your Audio System Hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe sound level before your hearing adapts to it. To help avoid hearing loss or damage do the following: 1. Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting. 2. Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably

and clearly.

NOTICE:

Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle -- like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two-way radio -- be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, radio or other systems, and even damage them. Your vehicle’s systems may also interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly. So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.

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Care of Your Cassette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight and extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate properly or may cause failure of the tape player. Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every 50 hours of use. Your radio will display CLEAN TAPE to indicate that you have used your tape player for 50 hours without resetting the tape clean timer. If this message appears on the display, your cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to your tapes and player. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if the tape or the tape player is at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player. For best results, use a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn. The recommended cleaning cassette is available through your dealer (GM Part No. 12344789).

For vehicles with the single compact disc player, use the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition to ON or ACCESSORY. 2. Turn the radio on. 3. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette. 4. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s

recommended cleaning time.

For vehicles with the six-disc compact disc player, when cleaning the cassette tape player with the recommended non-abrasive cleaning cassette, it is possible that the cassette may eject, because the cut tape detection feature on your radio may recognize it as a broken tape, in error. To prevent the cleaning cassette from being ejected, use the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition to ON or ACCESSORY. 2. Turn the radio on. 3. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette. 4. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s

recommended cleaning time.

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Care of Your Compact Discs Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the side without writing when handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge. Care of Your Compact Disc Player The use of CD lens cleaner discs is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism.

You may also choose a non-scrubbing action, wet-type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject on its own. A non-scrubbing action cleaner may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner. The use of a non-scrubbing action, dry-type cleaning cassette is not recommended. After you clean the player, perform the following steps: 1. Press the TUNE/SEL knob. 2. Turn the TUNE/SEL knob until SETUP is displayed. 3. Press the TUNE/SEL knob to enter SETUP. 4. Turn the TUNE/SEL knob until CLEAR TAPE

HOURS is displayed.

5. Press the TUNE/SEL knob to select. The radio

will display CLEARED to show that the indicator was reset.

Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced.

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Diversity Antenna System Your AM-FM antenna is integrated with your rear window defogger, located in the rear window. Be sure that the inside surface of the rear window is not scratched and that the lines on the glass are not damaged. If the inside surface is damaged, it could interfere with radio reception. Do not apply aftermarket glass tinting. The metallic film in some tinting materials will interfere with or distort the incoming radio reception.

NOTICE:

Do not try to clear frost or other material from the inside of the front windshield or rear window with a razor blade or anything else that is sharp. This may damage the grid lines and affect your radio’s ability to pick up stations clearly. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

If, when you turn on your rear window defogger, you hear static on your radio station, it could mean that a defogger grid line has been damaged. If this is true, the grid line must be repaired. If you choose to add an aftermarket cellular telephone to your vehicle, and the antenna needs to be attached to the glass, be sure that you do not damage the grid lines for the AM-FM antennas or place the cellular telephone antenna over the grid lines.

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Section 4 Your Driving and the Road

Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions. We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.

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Defensive Driving Drunken Driving Control of a Vehicle Braking Traction Control System StabilitrakR - Vehicle Stability Enhancement System (If Equipped) Steering Off-Road Recovery Passing Loss of Control

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Driving at Night Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads City Driving Freeway Driving Before Leaving on a Long Trip Highway Hypnosis Hill and Mountain Roads Winter Driving Recreational Vehicle Towing Loading Your Vehicle Towing a Trailer

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Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task -- such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor -- makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.

Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. See “Safety Belts” in the Index.

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Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: D Judgment D Muscular Coordination D Vision D Attentiveness. Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, about 16,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured. Many adults -- by some estimates, nearly half the adult population -- choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws.

The obvious way to solve the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things: D The amount of alcohol consumed D The drinker’s body weight D The amount of food that is consumed before and

during drinking

D The length of time it has taken the drinker to

consume the alcohol.

According to the American Medical Association, a 180-lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.

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Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in an increasing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, sets the legal limit at 0.08 percent. In some other countries, the limit is even lower. For example, it is 0.05 percent in both France and Germany. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!

It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men.

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The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking -- driver or passenger -- is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

CAUTION:

Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious -- or even fatal -- collision if you drive after drinking. Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

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Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle. Also see “Traction Control System” in the Index. 4-6

Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.

Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking -- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.

If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, this warning light will stay on. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

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The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.

Let’s say the road is wet and you’re driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here’s what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel.

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As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.

Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may hear the anti-lock pump or motor operate, and feel the brake pedal pulsate, but this is normal. Braking in Emergencies With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. Traction Control System Your vehicle has a traction control system that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the rear wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system brakes the spinning wheel(s) and/or reduces engine power to limit wheel spin.

You may feel or hear the system working, but this is normal.

This warning light will come on to let you know if there’s a problem with your traction control system.

See “Traction Control System Warning Light” in the Index. When this warning light is on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly. When the system is limiting wheel spin, the Traction Control System warning light will be blinking. The traction control system automatically comes on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the traction control system off if you ever need to. You should turn the system off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud or snow and rocking the vehicle is required. See “Rocking Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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To turn the system off, press the TC (traction control) button located in the glove box.

If you press the TC button once, the traction control system will turn off and the traction control system warning light will come on. Press the TC button again to turn the system back on. If you press and hold the TC button for five seconds, the Stabilitrak system will turn off. Press the TC button again to turn Stabilitrak back on. StabilitrakR - Vehicle Stability Enhancement System (If Equipped) Your vehicle may be equipped with a vehicle stability enhancement system called Stabilitrak. Stabilitrak is an advanced computer controlled system that assists you with directional control of the vehicle in difficult driving conditions.

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Stabilitrak has sensors that detect the direction your vehicle is going and compares it to the direction that you are steering the vehicle. Stabilitrak activates when the computer senses a discrepancy between your intended path and the direction the vehicle is actually traveling. To assist you in returning your vehicle to the intended path, Stabilitrak selectively applies braking pressure at any one of the vehicle’s brakes to help steer the vehicle in the direction which you are steering. When the system activates, a STABILITY SYS ENGAGED message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center. See “Driver Information Center Messages” in the Index. You may also hear a noise or feel vibration in the brake pedal. This is normal. Continue to steer the vehicle in the direction you want it to go. If there is a problem detected with Stabilitrak, a SERVICE STABILITY SYS message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center. See “Driver Information Center Messages” in the Index. When this message is displayed, the system is not operational. Driving should be adjusted accordingly. Stability comes on automatically whenever you start your vehicle. To help assist you with directional control of the vehicle, you should always leave the system on. You can turn Stabilitrak OFF if you ever need to trough the Traction On/Off button. See “Traction Control System” in the Index.

If your vehicle is in cruise control when the Stabilitrak activates, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may reengage the cruise control. See “Cruise Control” in the Index. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Speed Variable Assist Steering (If Equipped) This system varies the amount of effort required to steer the vehicle in relation to the speed of the vehicle. The amount of steering effort required is less at slower speeds to make the vehicle more maneuverable and easier to park. At faster speeds, the steering effort increases to provide a sport-like feel to the steering. This provides maximum control and stability.

If your vehicle seems harder to steer than normal when parking or driving slowly, there may be a problem with the system. You will still have power steering, but steering will be stiffer than normal at slow speeds. See your dealer for service. Steering Tips

Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.

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Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking -- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action -- steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. See “Braking in Emergencies” earlier in this section. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems -- steering and acceleration -- have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. Refer to “Traction Control System” in the Index. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

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Off-Road Recovery You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.

An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

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Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: D “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.

D Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines.

If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.

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D Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.

D When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,

start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.

D If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

D Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)

D Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time

on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.

D Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.

D If you’re being passed, make it easy for the

following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid.

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If your traction control system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

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Driving at Night

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

Here are some tips on night driving. D Drive defensively. D Don’t drink and drive. D Since you can’t see as well, you may need to

slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.

D Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your

headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.

D In remote areas, watch for animals. D If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place

and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

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CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.

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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water

Driving Through Flowing Water

CAUTION:

NOTICE:

If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

D Have good tires with proper tread depth. See “Tires”

in the Index.

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City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: D Know the best way to get to where you are

going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most

large cities. You’ll save time and energy. See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”

D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. 4-22

At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.

The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Cadillac dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

Here are some things you can check before a trip: D Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?

Are all windows clean inside and outside?

D Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? D Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked

all levels?

D Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? D Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,

trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

D Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook

along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? D Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a

comfortably cool interior.

D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to

the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently.

D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. D Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid

levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

D Know how to go down hills. The most important

thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

CAUTION:

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

D Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down

to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. D Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane

roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving: D Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your trunk.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Keep your traction control system on. It improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has a traction control system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See “Traction Control System” in the Index.

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Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index. D Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: D Turn on your hazard flashers.

D Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that

you’ve been stopped by the snow.

D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.

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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle -- such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: D What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?

Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

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D How far will you tow? Some vehicles have

restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.

D Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations.

D Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would

prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See “Before Leaving on a Long Trip” in the Index.

Dinghy Towing

NOTICE:

Towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground will damage drivetrain components.

Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, you should use a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” later in this section for more information.

Dolly Towing

Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps: 1. Put the rear wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P) for automatic transmissions or in NEUTRAL for manual transmissions.

3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position

with a clamping device designed for towing.

5. Release the parking brake.

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Loading Your Vehicle

CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

NOTICE:

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

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Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver’s side rear door tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the Vehicle Capacity Weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all options not installed in the factory.

CAUTION:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. D Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.

D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in

your vehicle.

D When you carry something inside the

vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

D Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you

need to.

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The other label is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. If you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 176 lbs. (80 kg) in the trunk.

Towing a Trailer

CAUTION:

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: D There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

D Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch

dealer about sway controls.

D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you

tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

D Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: D the weight of the trailer, D the weight of the trailer tongue D and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs. (454 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:

Cadillac Customer Assistance Center Cadillac Motor Car Division P.O. Box 33169
Detroit, MI 48232-5169

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In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

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If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10-15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver’s side rear door or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: D The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for

hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

D Will you have to make any holes in the body of your

vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index. Dirt and water can, too.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Because your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, don’t try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.

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Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

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Making Turns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating.

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Parking on Hills

CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) for an automatic transmission or into gear for a manual transmission. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.

2. Have someone place chocks behind the

trailer wheels.

3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular

brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking

brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transmission or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.

5. Release the regular brakes.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: D start your engine, D shift into a gear, and D release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

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Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

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Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating

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Cooling System If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire Compact Spare Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

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Hazard Warning Flashers

The hazard warning button is located in the center of the instrument panel, between the two air vents.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. Press the button to make the front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off. The light in the center of the button will flash, indicating that the hazard warning flashers are on. Press the button again to turn the flashers off. When the hazard warning flashers are on, neither your turn signals nor your Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) will work.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

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Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: D They contain acid that can burn you. D They contain gas that can explode or ignite. D They contain enough electricity to

burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. The ACDelcoR battery in your vehicle has a built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

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2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

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4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminal locations on each vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location of the battery.

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelcoR battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

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CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could also be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to the negative (-) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the negative terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the

other end of the negative (-) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move.

The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

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10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that has the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

NOTICE:

Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal period. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

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Jumper Cable Removal

A. Dead Battery B. Good Battery C. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following:

1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable the vehicle

that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index. Engine Overheating There are three engine hot messages that may be displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See “Engine Hot Warning Messages” in the Index.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

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CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message, can indicate a serious problem. See “Low Coolant Message” in the Index. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. D Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in neutral while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to park or neutral and let the engine idle.

2. Set the temperature control to the highest heat setting

and open the windows, as necessary.

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Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

A. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans

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The coolant level should be at or slightly above the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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CAUTION: (Continued)

Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50
mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed.

CAUTION: (Continued)

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CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap