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required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: D There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


D Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch


dealer about sway controls.


D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.


D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you


tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


D Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.


Three important considerations have to do with weight: D the weight of the trailer, D the weight of the trailer tongue D and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.


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You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:


Buick Customer Assistance Center P.O. Box 33136
Detroit, MI 48232-5136


In Canada, write to:


General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


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If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.


Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label (found inside the trunk lid) or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: D The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for


hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


D Will you have to make any holes in the body of your


vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index. Dirt and water can, too.


Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.


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Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.


Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns


NOTICE:


Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.


When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. If you are towing a trailer, you may want to drive in THIRD (3) instead of AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (B) (or, as you need to, a lower gear).


Parking on Hills


CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift


into PARK (P) yet.


2. Have someone place chocks under the


trailer’s wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking


brake, and shift to PARK (P).


5. Release the regular brakes.


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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you: D Start your engine; D Shift into a gear; and D Release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.


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Section 5 Problems on the Road


Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.


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Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating


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Cooling System If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire Compact Spare Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow


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Hazard Warning Flashers


Press the switch located on top of the steering column to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.


Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in; they even work if the key isn’t in the ignition. To turn off the flashers, press the switch again. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.


Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.


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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please use the following steps listed below to do it safely. If your vehicle has a dead battery or a battery with low voltage, there are two override access slots that will allow you to override the park lock system. See “Shift Lock Release” in the Index.


CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: D They contain acid that can burn you. D They contain gas that can explode or ignite. D They contain enough electricity to


burn you.


If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


NOTICE:


Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. The ACDelcoR battery in your vehicle has a built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.


1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


NOTICE:


If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.


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2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL (N) before setting the parking brake.


3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or auxiliary power outlet. Turn off all lamps that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio!


NOTICE:


If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.


(Your vehicle’s battery is located toward the front of the passenger’s side of the engine, under a diagonal brace. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.)


CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


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CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelcoR battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


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5. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal. The terminal is on the same side of the engine compartment as your battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, squeeze the sides of the red plastic cap and pull the cap upward. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on your battery.


6. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a heavy, unpainted metal engine part. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.


CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


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7. Connect the red


positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


9. Now connect the


black negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery.


It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.


10. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away


from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


11. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


12. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the heavy, unpainted metal engine part on the vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the


negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


5. Be sure to reinstall the remote positive (+) jump


starting terminal plastic cap on your vehicle.


Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery


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Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” and “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index. Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage and a hot engine warning light on your instrument panel. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” and “Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light” in the Index. You also have a LOW COOLANT warning light on your instrument panel. See “Low Coolant Warning Light” in the Index.


Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. Should an overheated engine condition exist, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The low coolant light may come on and the temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.


NOTICE:


After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss and change the oil. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.


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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.


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NOTICE:


If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. D Tow a trailer.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the window as necessary.


3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);


otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (B).


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


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Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:


CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.


When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD mark on the coolant recovery tank. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


A. Electric Engine Cooling Fans B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Coolant Recovery Tank


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CAUTION:


NOTICE:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


NOTICE:


Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.


When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.


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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.


NOTICE:


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.


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CAUTION:


CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator


NOTICE:


Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


2. Then keep turning


the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


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CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


3. Remove the 3800 Series II V6 engine cover shield to


access the bleed valve.


A. Clean the area around the engine oil fill tube and cap


before removing. Twist the oil fill tube, with cap attached, counterclockwise and remove it.


B. If you have the supercharged engine, remove the nut


in the center of the cover shield.


C. Lift the engine cover shield at the front, slide the


catch tab out of the engine bracket and remove the cover shield.


D. Put the oil fill tube, with cap attached, in the


valve cover oil fill hole until you’re ready to replace the cover shield.


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If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is filled.


6. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine


and the compartment.


7. Replace the 3800 Series II V6 engine cover shield. A. Remove the oil fill tube, with cap attached, from


the valve cover.


B. Insert the catch tab on the cover shield under the


bracket on the engine.


C. Place the hole in the cover shield over the hole in


the valve cover. Install oil fill tube and cap by twisting clockwise.


D. If you have the supercharged engine, install the


nut in the center of the cover shield.


4. After the engine


cools, open the coolant air bleed valve.


There is one bleed valve. It is located on the thermostat housing.


5. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


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8. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the COLD mark on the coolant recovery tank.


9. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but


leave the radiator pressure cap off.


10. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the


upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.


11. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


12. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.


13. Check the coolant in the recovery tank.


The level in the coolant recovery tank should be at the HOT mark when the engine is hot or at the COLD mark when the engine is cold.


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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.


CAUTION:


Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine.


To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.


The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.


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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk.


1. Turn the center nut on


the compact spare cover counterclockwise to remove it. Then lift and remove the cover. (See “Compact Spare Tire” in the Index for more information about the compact spare.)


2. Remove the spare tire.


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3. Turn the nut holding the jack counterclockwise and


remove it. Then remove the jack and wrench.


The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A), extension and protection guide (B) and wheel wrench (C).


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Wheel Center Caps


Wheel Covers


To remove a center cap, use the wrench to pry gently at the notch. Don’t use a tool that is narrower than the wrench to pry at this notch. Then pry off the cap.


If your vehicle is equipped with wheel covers, be sure to use a wheel wrench to begin the process of loosening the plastic wheel nut caps. Once you have loosened the plastic nut caps with the wheel wrench, if needed, you can finish loosening them with your fingers.


Then, using the flat end of the wheel wrench, pry along the edge of the wheel cover until it comes off. Be careful; the edge may be sharp. Don’t try to remove the cover with your bare hands.


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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire


CAUTION:


1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts.


Don’t remove them yet.


2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the jack


lift head.


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


CAUTION:


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.


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3. For jacking at the vehicle’s front location, put the jack lift head (C) about 6 inches (15 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel opening (B) or just behind the two bolts (A) as shown.


For jacking at the vehicle’s rear location, put the jack lift head (B) about 5 inches (13 cm) from the front edge of the rear wheel opening (C) or just behind the off-set (A) as shown.


4. Put the compact spare tire near you.


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7. Remove any rust or dirt


from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.


CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


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5. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle


clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the spare tire to fit under the vehicle. 6. Remove all wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.


CAUTION:


Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.


8. Install the spare tire.


Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.


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9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


10. Tighten the wheel nuts


firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.


NOTICE:


CAUTION:


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 N·m).


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.


Don’t try to put the wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.


NOTICE:


Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.


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Storing the Flat Tire and Tools


CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


After you’ve put the compact tire on your vehicle, you’ll need to store the flat tire in your trunk. Use the following procedure to secure the flat tire in the trunk. When storing a full-size tire you must use the extension with the protector/guide to help avoid wheel surface damage. Use the extension and protector/guide located in the foam holder. To store a full-size tire, place the tire valve stem facing down, and then remove the protector/guide and attach the retainer securely. Store the cover as far forward as possible.


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When storing a compact spare tire in the trunk, put the protector/guide back in the foam holder.


Storing the Spare Tire and Tools


CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the Index. See the storage instructions label to return your compact spare to your trunk properly. Be sure to calibrate your low tire pressure system after you replace your compact spare tire with a full-sized one. See “Low Tire Inflation Monitor” in the Index.


A. Retainer


B. Cover


C. Compact Spare Tire


D. Nut


E. Jack


F. Wrench


G. Lock Nut Tool


H. Foam Holder


I. Extension and


Protector/Guide


J. Bolt Screw


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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. You must calibrate the tire inflation monitor system after installing or removing the compact spare. See “Tire Inflation Monitor” in the Index. The system may not work correctly when the compact spare is installed on the vehicle. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.


NOTICE:


When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.


Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.


NOTICE:


Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.


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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.


CAUTION:


If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


NOTICE:


Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.


For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has the Traction Control System, you should turn the system off. See “Full-Range Traction Control System” or “Traction Control System” in the Index. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.


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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care


Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.


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Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Passenger Compartment Air Filter Supercharger Oil Automatic Transaxle Fluid Engine Coolant Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement


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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Care of Safety Belts Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels (If Equipped) Cleaning Tires GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts


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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.


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CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.


Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index. If you have the 3800 V6 engine (VIN Code K), use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. If you’re using fuel rated at the recommended octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. If you have the 3800 Supercharged V6 engine (VIN Code 1), use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher. With the 3800 Supercharged engine, in an emergency, you may be able to use a lower octane -- as low as 87 -- if heavy knocking does not occur. If you are using 91 or higher octane unleaded gasoline and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


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It is recommended that the gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and endorsed by the Canadian Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.


In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the fuel pump.


Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91 (at least 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index. If this occurs, return to your authorized Buick dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Canada Only


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Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Buick dealer for service. To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.


NOTICE:


Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.


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Filling Your Tank


CAUTION:


Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.


The tethered cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle. 6-6


While refueling, let the cap hang by the tether below the fuel fill opening. To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.


CAUTION:


If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.


When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index. The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will come on if the fuel cap is not properly reinstalled.


NOTICE:


If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.


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Filling a Portable Fuel Container


Checking Things Under the Hood


CAUTION:


CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into


approved containers.


D Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground.


D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


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Hood Release


To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle, located just below the instrument panel and to the left of the steering column.


Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release. Lift the hood.


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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3800 V6 engine, you’ll see:


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A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir B. Battery C. Remote Positive (+) Battery Terminal D. Underhood Electrical Center (Passenger’s Side) E. Radiator Pressure Cap F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank


G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir H. Engine Oil Dipstick I. Engine Oil Fill Cap J. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick K. Brake Fluid Reservoir L. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


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When you open the hood on the 3800 V6 Supercharged engine, you’ll see:


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A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir B. Battery C. Remote Positive (+) Battery Terminal D. Underhood Electrical Center (Passenger’s Side) E. Radiator Pressure Cap F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank


G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir H. Engine Oil Dipstick I. Engine Oil Fill Cap J. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick K. Brake Fluid Reservoir L. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly.


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Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.


Engine Oil


If the LOW OIL light appears on the instrument panel, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “Low Oil Level Light” in the Index.


You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.


The engine oil dipstick handle is the yellow loop located near the front of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


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Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.


NOTICE:


Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


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Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.


If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.


The engine oil fill cap is located toward the front of the engine near the yellow-looped engine oil dipstick handle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


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You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart: SAE 10W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60_F (16_C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.


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NOTICE:


Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.


GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil. This is not based on mileage, but on engine revolutions and engine operating temperature. When the computer has calculated that the oil needs changing, the GM Oil Life Systemt will indicate that a change is necessary. The mileage between oil and filter changes will vary depending on how you drive your vehicle -- usually between 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and 10,000 miles (16 000 km) since your last oil and filter change. Under severe conditions, the system may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Never drive your vehicle more than 10,000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first) without an oil change. The system won’t detect dust in the oil. So, if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner. Remember to reset the CHANGE OIL SOON light whenever the oil is changed.


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How to Reset the GM Oil Life Systemt After changing the engine oil, the system must be reset. 1. With the engine off, turn the ignition key to RUN. 2. Fully push and release the accelerator pedal slowly


three times within five seconds. If the CHANGE OIL SOON light flashes, the system is resetting.


3. Turn the key to OFF, then start the vehicle. The oil


life will change to 100 percent. If the CHANGE OIL SOON light comes back on, the system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. (If you have a Driver Information Center, the system may be reset by pressing the DIC RESET button for five seconds while viewing the oil life display on the DIC. See “Driver Information Center” in the Index.)


What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


The engine air cleaner/filter is located underneath a diagonal brace on the driver’s side of the engine. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


To check or replace the engine air cleaner/filter: 1. Loosen the wing nut on the air duct and lift up on the


two clips located on the top of the filter assembly.


2. Then disconnect the duct and reposition it while


removing the side cover.


3. Pull out the filter. 4. Replace the filter if needed. 5. Be sure to install the engine air cleaner/filter and


install the cover tightly when you are finished.


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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


NOTICE:


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.


Passenger Compartment Air Filter


The passenger compartment air filter is located underneath your hood just below the windshield wiper arm, on the passenger’s side (underneath the air inlet grille) of the vehicle.


To change the passenger compartment air filter, use the following steps: 1. Turn off the ignition when the windshield wipers are


in the up position.


2. Raise the hood. 3. Disconnect the windshield washer pump hose from


the fender rail and air inlet grille.


4. Remove the hood weatherstrip from the passenger’s


side of the vehicle (peel back halfway to center).


The filter traps most of the pollen from the air entering the air conditioning module. Like your engine’s air cleaner filter, it may need to be changed periodically. For information on how often to change the passenger compartment air filter, see “Maintenance Schedule” in the Index.


5. Remove the air inlet grille retainers.


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6. Remove the air inlet grille. 7. Remove the passenger compartment air filter. 8. Then replace the old air filter with the new one. For


the type of filter to use, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index.


9. Reposition the air inlet grille. 10. Reinstall the air inlet grille retainers. 11. Reattach the hood weatherstrip. 12. Reconnect the windshield washer pump hose to the


fender rail and air inlet grille.


13. Close the hood. 14. Return the windshield wipers to the park position.


Supercharger Oil


Unless you are technically qualified and have the proper tools, you should let your dealer or a qualified service center perform this maintenance.


When to Check Check oil level every 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or every 36 months, whichever occurs first. What Kind of Oil to Use Use only the recommended supercharger oil. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


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How to Check and Add Oil Check oil only when the engine is cold. Allow the engine to cool two to three hours after running.


CAUTION:


If you remove the supercharger oil fill plug while the engine is hot, pressure may cause hot oil to blow out of the oil fill hole. You may be burned. Do not remove the plug until the engine cools.


1. Clean the area around the oil fill plug before


removing it.


2. Remove the oil fill plug using a 3/16 inch


Allen wrench.


3. The oil level is correct when it just reaches the


bottom of the threads of the inspection hole. 4. Replace the oil plug with the O-ring in place.


Tighten to 88 lb-in (10 N·m).


Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature


regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.


D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


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To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to drive longer.


Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the


engine running.


D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).


D Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.


How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.


NOTICE:


Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.


Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer.


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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The automatic transaxle fluid dipstick handle is the red loop located toward the rear of the engine. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or


paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower


level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area. 4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the


dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.


NOTICE:


We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as


described under “How to Check.”


4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating or if you need to add coolant to your radiator, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as


they should.


NOTICE:


When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.


CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.


NOTICE:


If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.


If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.


NOTICE:


If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


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Checking Coolant The engine coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle at the back of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


If this LOW COOLANT light comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the HOT mark or a little higher.


Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.


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Radiator Pressure Cap


NOTICE:


Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.


See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.


CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see “Cooling System” in the Index.


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Power Steering Fluid


The power steering fluid reservoir is located at the back of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, near the engine coolant recovery tank. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.


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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid


When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the HOT mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


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The windshield washer fluid reservoir is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment, near the battery.


See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.


Brakes Brake Fluid


NOTICE:


D When using concentrated washer fluid,


follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.


D Fill your washer fluid tank only


three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.


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When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.


What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Maintenance Schedule. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


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NOTICE:


D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage


brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.


D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.


Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).


CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


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NOTICE:


Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”


Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if

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