1993 Buick Regal Owners Manual

make occasional glances over the line of headlights to make certain that one of the vehicles isn’t starting to move into your lane. Once you are past the bright lights, give your eyes time to readjust before resuming speed.

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High Beams If the vehicle approaching you has its high beams on, signal by flicking yours to high and then back to low beam. This is the usual signal to lower the headlight beams. If the other driver still doesn’t lower the beams, resist the temptation to put your high beams on. This only makes two half-blinded drivers. On a freeway, use your high beams only in remote areas where you won’t impair approaching drivers. In some places, like cities, using high beams is illegal. When you follow another vehicle on a freeway or highway, use low beams. True, most vehicles now have day-night mirrors that enable the driver to reduce glare. But outside mirrors are not of this type and high beams from behind can bother the driver ahead.

A Few More Night Driving Suggestions Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Tobacco smoke also makes inside glass surfaces very filmy and can be a vision hazard if it’s left there. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. You might even want to keep a cloth and some glass cleaner in your vehicle if you need to clean your glass frequently. Remember that your headlights light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlights should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

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Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road you can’t stop, .accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. Road spray can often be worse for vision than rain, especially if it comes from a dirty road. So it is wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show

Driving in the Rain

1 L3

signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

A CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. You might not be aware of hydroplaning. You could drive along for some time without realizing your tires aren’t in constant contact with the road. You could find out the hard way: when you have to slow, turn, move out to pass -- or if you get hit by a gust of wind. You could suddenly find yourself out of control. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure in one or

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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

~.-lll

more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining, and be careful. Some Other Rainy Weather Tips

Turn on your headlights -- not just your parking lights -- to help make you more visible to others. Look for hard-to-see vehicles coming from behind. You may want to use your headlights even in daytime if it’s raining hard. Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. If the road spray is so heavy you are actually blinded, drop back. Don’t pass until conditions improve. Going more slowly is better than having an accident. Use your defogger if it helps.

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0 Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See

“Tires” in the Index.)

Driving in Fog, Mist and Haze

Fog can occur with high humidity or heavy frost. It can be so mild that you can see through it for several hundred feet (meters). Or it might be so thick that you can see only a few feet (meters) ahead. It may come suddenly to an otherwise clear road. And it can be a maj or hazard.

When you drive into a fog patch, your visibility will be reduced quickly. The biggest dangers are striking the vehicle ahead or being struck by the one behind. Try to “read” the fog density down the road. If the vehicle ahead starts to become less clear or, at night, if the taillights are harder to see, the fog is probably thickening. Slow down to give traffic behind you a chance to slow down. Everybody then has a better chance to avoid hitting the vehicle ahead. A patch of dense fog may extend only for a few feet (meters) or for miles (kilometers); you can’t really tell while you’re in it. You can only treat the situation with extreme care. One common fog condition -- sometimes called mist or ground fog -- can happen in weather that seems perfect, especially at night or in the early morning in valley and low, marshy areas. You can be suddenly enveloped in thick, wet haze that may even coat your windshield. You can often spot these fog patches or mist layers with your headlights. But sometimes they can be waiting for you as you come over a hill or dip into a shallow valley. Start your windshield wipers and washer, to help clear accumulated road dirt. Slow down carefully.

Tips on Driving in Fog If you get caught in fog, turn your headlights on low beam, even in daytime. You’ll see -- and be seen -- better. Use your fog lights if your vehicle has them. Don’t use your high beams. The light will bounce off the water droplets that make up fog and reflect back at you. Use your defogger. In high humidity, even a light buildup of moisture on the inside of the glass will cut down on your already limited visibility. Run your windshield wipers and washer occasionally. Moisture can build up on the outside glass, and what seems to be fog may actually be moisture on the outside of your windshield. Treat dense fog as an emergency. Try to find a place to pull off the road. Of course you want to respect another’s property, but you might need to put something between you and moving vehicles -- space, trees, telephone poles, a private driveway, anything that removes you from other traffic. If visibility is near zero and you must stop but are unsure whether you are away from the road, turn your lights on, start your hazard warning flashers, and sound

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your horn at intervals or when you hear approaching traffic. Pass other vehicles in fog only if you can see far enough ahead to pass safely. Even then, be prepared to delay your pass if you suspect the fog is worse up ahead. If other vehicles try to pass you, make it easy for them. City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: 0 Know the best way to get to where you are going.

Try not to drive around trying to pick out a familiar street or landmark. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

0 Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most

large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next section, “Freeway Driving.”) Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

0 Obey all posted speed limits. But remember that they are for ideal road, weather and visibility conditions. You may need to drive below the posted limit in bad weather or when visibility is especially poor.

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Pull to the right (with care) and stop clear or intersections when you see or hear emergency vehicles.

Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.

The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. Entering the Freeway At the entrance there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. If traffic is light, you may have no problem. But if it is heavy, find a gap as you move along the entering lane and time your approach. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your rearview mirrors as you move along, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Driving on the Freeway Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it's slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. If you are on a two-lane freeway, treat the right lane as the slow lane and the left lane as the passing lane.

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If you are on a three-lane freeway, treat the right lane as the slower-speed through lane, the middle lane as the higher-speed through lane, and the left lane as the passing lane. Before changing lanes, check your rearview mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. If you are moving from an outside to a center lane on a freeway having more than two lanes, make sure another vehicle isn’t about to move into the same spot. Look at the vehicles two lanes over and watch for telltale signs: turn signals flashing, an increase in speed, or moving toward the edge of the lane. Be prepared to delay your move. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. Leaving the Freeway When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. Dashing across lanes at the last minute is dangerous. If you miss your exit do not, under

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any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. At each exit point is a deceleration lane. Ideally it should be long enough for you to enter it at freeway speed (after signaling, of course) and then do your braking before moving onto the exit ramp. Unfortunately, not all deceleration lanes are long enough -- some are too short for all the braking. Decide when to start braking. If you must brake on the through lane, and if there is traffic close behind you, you can allow a little extra time and flash your brake lights (in addition to your turn signal) as extra warning that you are about to slow down and exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. For example, 40 mph (65 km/h) might seem like only 20 mph (30 km/h). Obviously, this could lead to serious trouble on a ramp designed for 20 mph (30 km/h)!

Driving a Long Distance Although most long trips today are made on freeways, there are still many made on regular highways. Long-distance driving on freeways and regular highways is the same in some ways. The trip has to be planned and the vehicle prepared, you drive at higher-than-city speeds, and there are longer turns behind the wheel. You’ll enjoy your trip more if you and your vehicle are in good shape. Here are some tips for a successful long trip. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Buick dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Eng;ine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? - Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

On the Road Unless you are the only driver, it is good to share the driving task with others. Limit turns behind the wheel to about 100 miles (160 km) or two hours at a sitting. Then, either change drivers or stop for some like coffee, tea or soft drinks and some limbering up. But do stop and move around. Eat lightly along the way. Heavier meals tend to make some people sleepy.

refreshment

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On two-lane highways or undivided multilane highways that do not have controlled access, you’ll want to watch for some situations not usually found on freeways. Examples are: stop signs and signals, shopping centers with direct access to the highway, no passing zones and school zones, vehicles turning left and right off the road, pedestrians, cyclists, parked vehicles, and even animals. Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be inj ured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen.

Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors frequently and your instruments from time to time. This can help you avoid a fixed stare. Wear good sunglasses in bright light. Glare can cause drowsiness. But don’t wear sunglasses at night. They will drastically reduce your overall vision at the very time you need all the seeing power you have. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

As in any driving situation, keep pace with traffic and allow adequate following distances.

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

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I L CAUTION If you don’t shift down, Jour brakes ,auld get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then I have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engirp assist your brakes on a steep downhill

I A CAUTION to do all the work of slowing down. They could I

Coasting downhill in “N” (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have

get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. could crash. Always have your engine runn g and your vel - le i gear \ en ya-- go downhill.

Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better.

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0 Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane

roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. That way, you won’t be surprised by a vehicle coming toward you in the same lane. It takes longer to pass another vehicle when you’re going uphill. You’ll want to leave extra room to pass. If a vehicle is passing you and doesn’t have enough room, slow down to make it easier for the other vehicle to get by.

0 As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could

be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

0 You may see highway signs on mountains that warn

of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

0 Winter driving can present special problems. See

“Winter Driving’’ in the Index.

Parking on Hills

You can turn your front wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling downhill or out into traffic.

Hills and mountains mean spectacular scenery. But please be careful where you stop if you decide to look at the view or take pictures. Look for pull-offs or parking areas provided for scenic viewing. Another part of this manual tells how to use your parking brake (see “Parking Brake” in the Index). But on a mountain or steep hill, you can do one more thing.

Turn your wheels to the right. You don’t have to jam your tires against the curb, if there is a curb. A gentle contact is all you need.

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Parking Uphill

If there is a curb, turn your wheels to the left if the curb is at the right side of your vehicle.

If you're going uphill on a one-way street and you're parking on the left side, your wheels should point to the right.

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1 I 1

Torque Lock (Automatic Transaxle) If you are parking on a hill and you don’t shift your transaxle into “P” (Park) properly, the weight of the vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl in the transaxle. You may find it difficult to pull the shift lever out of “P” (Park). This is called “torque lock.” To prevent torque lock, always be sure to shift into “P” (Park) properly before you leave the driver’s seat. To find out how, see “Shifting Into “P” (Park)” in the Index. When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of “P” (Park) BEFORE you release the parking brake. If “torque lock” does occur, you may need to have another vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the pressure from the transaxle, so you can pull the shift lever out of “P” (Park).

If there is no curb when you’re parking uphill, turn the wheels to the right. If there is no curb when you’re parking uphill on the left side of a one-way street, your wheels should be turned to the left.

Winter Driving

You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your trunk.

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your Buick in good shape for winter. Be sure your engine coolant mix is correct.

0 Snow tires can help in loose snow, but they may give

you less traction on ice than regular tires. If you do not expect to be driving in deep snow, but may have to travel over ice, you may not want to switch to snow tires at all.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

-.*

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about freezing (32 O F ; 0 O C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to brake very gently, too. (If you do have anti-lock, see “Anti-lock” in the Index. This system improves your vehicle’s ability to make a hard stop on a slippery road.) Whether you have the anti-lock braking system or not, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without anti-lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can.

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Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you’ll just slide. Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer.

Whatever your braking system, allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been

stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

, , CA,UTION: (Continued)

Snow can trap 1 This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and

naust ases under your veh'ick

II you. You can't see it or smell it, so you mighl not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle , especial11 any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And r':.:%--l . ,;-< 4 check around again from time to time to be surel ..,;I ,:--; .: Snow doesn't collect there. k, ..;:-- :,: . ' . . . , -..

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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlights. Let the heater run for awhile.

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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. If You’re Stuck in Deep Snow This manual explains how to get the vehicle out of deep snow without damaging it. See “Rocking Your Vehicle” in the Index. Towing a Trailer

(n CAUTION:

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section.

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I NOTICE:

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follov the advice in this section.

‘I

Your vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the

trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. All of that means changes in:

Handling Durability

0 Fuel economy If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points.

There are many different laws having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

0 Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your

engine and other i)a’rts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at Buick Motor Division, Customer Assistance Center, 902 E. Hamilton Avenue, Flint, MI 48550. In Canada, write to General Motors of Canada Limited, Customer Assistance Center, 1908 Colonel Sam Drive, Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7. Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total capacity weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes the

curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

The trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total ,loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer; weigh the trailer,and then the tongue, separately, td see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door (or see “Tire Loading’’ in the Index). Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit €or your vehicle. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide’’ in the Index). Dirt and ‘water can, too: The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Even if your vehicle doesn’t have anti-lock brakes, don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.

Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the upper rear master cylinder port. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly so responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.

1 7 2

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

174

f i r n Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. If you are towing a trailer that weighs more than 1,000 pounds ( 450 kg), and you have an automatic transaxle with Overdrive, you may prefer to drive in “D” instead of Overdrive (or, as you need to, a lower gear).

Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1.

Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “ P ’ (Park) yet. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift to “P” (Park). Release the regular brakes.

2. 3.

4.

5.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

Start your engine; Shift into a gear; and

0 Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, belt, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

175

176

193I Buick Model 90

Part 5 Problems On The Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road . Part 5 includes:

Hazard Warning Flashers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . QtherWarningDevices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “Jump”Starting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TowingYourBuick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engineoverheating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IfaTireGoesFlat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ChangingaFlatTire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CompactSpareTire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . If You’re Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

178 179 180 185 192 201 201 210 211

Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lights will flash on and off.

1

Slide the switch up to make your front and rear turn signal lights flash on and off. Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.

To turn off the flashers, slide the switch down. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

179

Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Buick. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.

Batteries can because

Irt u. Thev can be dangerous

They ca . A n acla that can burn you. They contain cas that can explode or ignite. They collli arluuyrt electricity +o burn you. IT you dc all r' "-7se thjnc- . r-an hurt you;ce,,

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?se steps exactly, some or '

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To Jump Start Your Buick: 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other system isn't a 12-volt system with a ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren't touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don't want. You wouldn't be able to start your Buick, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

1 CAUTION:

You could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transaxle in “P” (Park) or a manual transaxle in “N” (Neutral).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all

lights that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.

I I A CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even wheVv the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhooc‘ electric fan.

Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery. Your Buick has a remote positive (+)jump starting terminal. The terminal is on the same side of the engine compartment as your battery. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on your battery. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, lift the red plastic cap.

181

1

Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.

I A CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts I once the engines are running.

I A CAUTION: I gas to explode. People have been hurt doing Using a match near a battery can cause battery this, and some have been blinded. Use a I flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don‘- need to add water to the Delco Freedom@ battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that First. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get-it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too.

182

I L-,.::.

...

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

c T ; Q " ". ,

.. ,:.:

7. Don't let the other

end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery's negative (-) terminal.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away

from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

184

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your Ruick. The usual towing equipment is a sling-type (A) or a wheel-lift (B) or car carrier (C) tow truck.

Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle has front-wheel drive.

0 The make, model, and year of your vehicle. Whether you can still move the shift lever. If there was an accident, what was damaged.

When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.

If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding aftermarket items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions and illustrations may not be correct.

T

To help avoid injury to you or others:

Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is being towed. Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds. Never tow with damaged parts not fully secured. Never get under your vehicle after it has been lifted by the tow truck. Always use separate safetv chains on each side when towing a vehic Never use "J" hnnks- Use T-hanks i

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle's steering column lock for this. The transaxle should be in Neutral and the parking brake released. Don't have your vehicle towed on the front wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the front wheels, don't go more than 55 mph (88 Km/h) or farther than 500 miles (800 km) or your transaxle will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the front wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

/1\ CAUTION:

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn't properly secured. This can cause a collision, serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or steel cables before it is transported. Don't use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed vehicle.

186

Front Towing Hook-Ups (Custom Sedan Only)

Attach "T" hook chains in front of the wheels into the side slots of the cradle on both sides.

Position a 4" x 4" wood beam across the sling chains against the bottom of the cradle horns. Position the lower sling crossbar against the front of the 4" x 4" wood beam.

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

187

Front Towing Hook-Ups (Limited Sedan Only)

Attach "T' hook chains in front of the wheel into the side slots in the cradle on both sides.

Position the lower sling crossbar against the front of the 4" x 4" wood beam.

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

Position a 4"x 4" wood beam across the sling chains and center in,be middle of the lower facia.

Rear Towing Hook-Ups (Coupes Only)

Attach “T” hook chains into slots in the bottom of the floor pan just ahead of the rear wheels on both sides.

No 4 I’ x 4 I‘ wood beam is needed. Position the lower sling crossbar just ahead of the front edge of the rear bumper.

‘

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

189

Rear Towing Hook-Ups (Limited & Custom Sedans Only)

r '

Use wheel lift or car carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chain and wheel straps.

190

Front Towing Hook-Ups (Coupes Only)

,-

over rough surfaces, install a towing dolly beneath the wheels that would otherwise be o the ground during the tow. This will increase the clearance between the wheel-lift equipment an6 the underbody of the towed vehicl*

Use wheel lift or car carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chain and wheel straps.

191

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your Buick's instrument panel. You may also find a low coolant warning light on your Buick instrument panel. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine:

A CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before opening the hood. '* -7ou keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

If your engine catch driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs w?uld not b covered by your warranty.

, .

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine: If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: 0 Climb a long hill on a hot day. 0 Stop after high speed driving. 0 Idle for long periods in traffic.

Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. 2.

Turn off your air conditioner. Turn on your heater to full hot speed and open the window as Try to keep your engine under where the engine runs slower).

at the highest fan necessary. load (in a drive gear

3.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn‘t corne back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND GET EVERYONE OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down.

You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

.... ... ..

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see: 0 Coolant recovery tank 0 Radiator pressure cap 0 Electric engine fan

tder the hood can =&drt up even is not running and can injure --, clothing and tools away frnm I nlcwtric fan-

---

The coolant level should be at or above the “COLD”. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

~~~~

Heater and radiator hoses, and other englne parts, can be very hot. do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you r,,, the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned

m y leak fixed before you drive +he vehicl,.

194

If there seems to be no leak, check to see if the electric engine fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it isn’t, your vehicle needs service.

m

m w -

In cold weath wate :an engine, radiator, heater core and other- parts. Use the recommended coolanl

anc

frc

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant leveI isn’t at or above “COLD” add a 50/50 mixture of clean - water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant’’ in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

can bedangerous. Plain water, or some othe liquid like alcohol, can boil before the prope coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warn system is set for the proper coolant mix. Wit plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheal warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and a proper antifreeze

,- '

'bootin!, .Steam and scalding liquids- from a hot system can btow o.ut and burn you badly. They are under pressure,..and. if you turn the. radiatr- pre,ssure cap - even a little - they can come brl

turn,the

cap'when

at high speed. the+;:.:: Never cooling system, including the, radiator pressye cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system'and have to radiator pressure -turn the pressure cap.

cap to cool if:you-ever

Youlean be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol -d

it wiil burn if the engine parts are hot

ough. Don't spill coolant -on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above "COLD," start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there's one more thing you can try. directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

can add the proper coolant mix

You

196

x 8

ir

..-,

7 1. You can remove the

radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don't press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you heal- a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

197

1 CAI

YOU can De Durnea IT engine parts. Coola and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engin

After the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed valve or valves.

L L

ji

3.8L V4 (VIN Code L27): There is one bleed valve. It is located on the thermostat housing.

.EI.r,

3.1L V6 (VIN Code T or M): There are two bleed valves. One is located on the thermostat housing. The other is located on the thermostat bypass tube.

3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base of the filler neck.

If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve(s) after the radiator is filled.

4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant nom the engine

and compartment.

5. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to "COLD." 6. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

I.

8. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator

filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

..

. L .

' .

9. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

7. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan(s).

200

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot fromthe accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If your tire goes flat, the next section shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire

safely.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

A CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. TO help prevent

be ! licle from moving:

the parking brake firmly.

L. Put the shift lever in “P” (Park). 3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put chocks at the front and rear of th tire farthest away from the one being ehangec That would be the tire on the other side nG the vehicle, at the opposit- md. ;

201

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

-I%

The equipment you'll need is in the trunk.

202

If there is a wheel cover, remove it by using the flat end of the wheel wrench. Pry along the edge of the wheel cover until it comes off. Be careful; the rim edges may be sharp. Don’t try to remove it with your bare hands.

If your vehicle has wheel nut cover, remove it to access the wheel nuts.

203

. .

If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, remove then using the wheel nut wrench.

If you have a Gran Sport Coupe, remove a rocker panel extension section to expose the place where the jack fits. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet.

204

m

Position the jack under the vehicle. Your Buick has a notch on the frame near each of the wheels. Fit the lift head into the notch nearest the wheel with the flat tire.

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

,etting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get undel I vehicle when

is supported only bv a iack.

Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

205

Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

iP

A CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on rne parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces or spare wheel. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

206

Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

207

I

Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown.

icorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an @iig$ accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel'nuls If you have to replace them, be sure to get the right kind.

I Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have

the nuts tighten4 with a torque wrench to 100 Ibs. (lpn N-m).

f t D

Don't try to put a wheel cover on your compact spa.re tire. It won't fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

Wheel covers won't fit on your compact spare. I I $$,,: . ,. :% .,. . you try to put a wheel cover on your compact ,. , . spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.''2:'

, ,

", .

. _ "

Now put all the equipment back into the trunk.

209

A CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the p-per place.

Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). The compact spare is made to go up to 3,000 miles (5000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it's best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again. Your anti-lock brake system warning light may come on when you are driving with a compact spare. See "Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light" in the Index.

. ..--;i.~""*rSl~~,~"." ~ . ~ = : ~ ~ ~ ~ ; ~ ~ ~ ~ ; ~ , . ~ : , , ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

NOTICE:

' Don't take your compact spare through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. Tha can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. , ., . ", ,**~. I , z

. . ... . ."

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Don't use your compact spare on some other vehicle. And don't mix your compact spare or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won't fit. Keep your spare and its wheel together.

Tire chains won't fit your compact spare. Using them will damage your vehicle and destroy the chains too. Don't use tire chains on your compact spare. __ . .,., _, < . ' * Y ., .:

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/;1 CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could

3use injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all the$$ in the proper place.

! -

NOTICE: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of you1 vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle

around

your front wheels. Then shift back

Aocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area and forth between “R” (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

If - You’re Stuck: In Sand; Mud’ Ice Or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

IT you let your tires spin at h I speea, they can explode and you or others could be injured. And the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

211

I957 Buick Super

Part 6 Service And Appearance Care

vehicle, and a section devoted to its appearance care. Part 6 includes:

214

ServiceTips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HoodRelease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 EngineOil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AirCleane r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Automatic Transaxle Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Enginecoolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Power Steering Fluid .......................... Windshield Washer Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BulbReplacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LoadingYourVehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Appearancecare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FusesandCircuitBreakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Capacities and Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Service Your Buick dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

I A CAUTlvN:

You can be injured if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, and the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts ancI other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper Buick Service Manual. It tells you much.more about how to service your Buick than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index. 214

Fuel Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the U.S. and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see “UNLEADED” right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen, such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle.

Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with detergent additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with materials called oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use

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gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain detergents and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors of Canada Ltd. International Export Sales P.O. Box 828 Oshawa, Ontario L1H 7N1, Canada

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Filling Your Tank

The cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle.

While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the k f t (counterclockwise).

11ne vapor IS nlghly Tlarnrnao

violently, and that can cause very Dad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refuelin your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, (rr4erials away +rqm ga-line. ~ ~ 2 ; : L M k

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Checking Things Under the Hood Hood Release

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle. It is located on the floor next to the driver’s seat.

A CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on you and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly, This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and: is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear a clicking noise.

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

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. -

,.

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-*:~:inh Then go to the front of the ,. ;, ., ,:,’:*< vehicle and release the secondary hood release. Lift the hood.

c1

4 CAUTION:

An electric fr ~- der the hood can start up and . jure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fr-

A CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline,