1997 Buick Park Avenue Owners Manual

away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.

If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, this warning light will stay on. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

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The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.

Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet. You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS. A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at the rear wheels.

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You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.

Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes.

Using Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel the system working, or you may notice some noise, but this is normal. Traction Control System (If Equipped) Your vehicle may have a traction control system that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system works the front brakes and reduces engine power to limit wheel spin. You may feel or hear the system working, but If your vehicle is in cruise control when the traction control system begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road

this is normal.

conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may re-engage the cruise control. (See “Cruise Control” in the Index.)

When the system is on, this warning light will come on to let you know if there’s a problem with your traction control system.

TRAC OFF

See “Traction Control System Warning Light” in the Index. When this warning light is on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly. The traction control system automatically comes on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the traction control system off if you ever need to. (You should turn the system off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow. See “Rocking Your Vehicle” in the Index.)

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Braking in Emergencies With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Magnasteer (If Equipped) Your vehicle may be equipped with GM Magnasteer TM, a steering system that continuously adjusts the effort you feel when steering at all vehicle speeds. It provides ease when parking yet a firm, solid feel at highway speeds. Your steering can be adjusted for an easier or more firm setting. See your dealer for information.

To turn the system off, press the button located at the end of the shift lever. The traction control system warning light will come on and stay on. If the system is limiting wheel spin when you press the button, the warning light will come on -- but the system won’t turn off right away. It will wait until there’s no longer a current need to limit wheel spin. You can turn the system back on at any time by pressing the button again. The traction control system warning light should go off.

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Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.

Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems -- steering and acceleration -- have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. Refer to “Traction Control” in the Index. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

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Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking -- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action -- steering around the problem. Your Buick can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. (See “Braking in Emergencies” earlier in this section.) It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

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An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

Off-Road Recovery You may find sometime that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing:

“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. Watch for traffk signs, pavement markings and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.

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Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.

0 If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.) Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle. Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

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Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of sluds correspond to your Buick’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If you have the traction control system, remember: It helps avoid only the acceleration skid.

If you do not have traction control, or if the system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking shd.

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Driving at Night

Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively. Don't drink and drive. Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you. Since you can't see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you're tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

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Night Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps.

Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because

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Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.

Driving Through Deep Standing Water

NOTICE:

If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

is slightly

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips

Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)

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City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:

Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”) Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.

Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot.

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Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in.

Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Buick dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip: Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. 0 Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels

and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. 0 Know how to go down hills. The most important

thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

- _

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

0 Know how to go uphill. Drive in the highest

gear possible.

0 Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane

roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action. 4-25

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your Buick in good shape for winter. YOU may want to put winter emergency supplies in your trunk.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

_ ................ ............ ...I ........

.............. ..- ........... < .... I .......... ’.rJ>‘.;

.-- --

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32°F; 0” C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. If you have traction control, keep the system on. It will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has a traction control system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See “Traction Control System’’ in the Index. If you don’t have the traction control system, accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

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Lf You’re Caught in a Blizzard

Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehcle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: 0 Turn on your hazard flashers.

Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

Loading Your Vehicle

TIRE-LOADING INFORMATION

‘

OCCUPANTS

FRT. CTR. RR.

VEHICLE CAP. WT.

TOTAL

LBS.

KG

MAX. LOADING & GVWR SAME AS VEHICLE CAPACITY WEIGHT COLD TIRE PRESSURE TIRE

SIZE

SPEED

XXX

RTG

PSI/KPa

FRT. RR. SPA. IF TIRES ARE HOT, ADD 4PSli28KPa SEE OWNER’S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver’s door tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called the Vehicle Capacity Weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options.

MFD BY GENERAL MOTORS CORP DATE GVWR GAWR

FRT GAWR RR

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLI- CABLE U.S. FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY, BUMPER, AND THEFT PREVENTION STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE.

The other label is the Certification Label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 176 pounds (80 kilograms) in -your trunk.

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, or it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

r ~~~

NOTICE:

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

~-

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Towing a Trailer /A CAL I'ION:

If you don't use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the

brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You

and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your Buick dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

r - - A C~"rIO1

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly. Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. Don't leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

Electronic Level Control This feature keeps the rear of your vehicle level as the load changes. It's automatic -- you don't need to adjust anything.

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NOTICE:

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your Buick dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is

required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this infomation can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers (or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h)) to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

1 m m

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Three important considerations have to do with weight:

In Canada, write to:

the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires.

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total capacity weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

Buick Motor Division Customer Relations Center 902 E. Hamilton Avenue Flint, MI 48550

4-34

A

If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongug. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide’’ in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.

4-35

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into you vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are 4-36

driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns

I NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Your vehicle has bulb warning lights. When you plug a trailer lighting system into your vehicle’s lighting system, its bulb warning lights may not let you know if one of your lamps goes out. So, when you have a trailer lighting system plugged in, be sure to check your vehicle and trailer lamps from time to time to be sure they’re all working. Once you disconnect the trailer lamps, the bulb warning lights again can tell you if one of your vehicle lamps is out.

Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down to THIRD (3) and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking

brake, and then shift to PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

Start your engine; Shift into a gear; and

0 Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, belts, cooling system and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

f i NOTES

f i NOTES

Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

5-2 5-2 5-3 5-7 5- 12

Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating

5-22 5-22 5-32 5-33

If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire Compact Spare Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

Hazard Warning Flashers

Press the button in to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, press down on the button again. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

5-2

Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Buick. But please follow the steps in this part to do

it safely. A CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you.

0 They contain gas that can explode or ignite.

They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

1 NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your Buick, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) before setting the parking brake.

5-3

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off the

radios and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. It could save your radio !

5. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on

each battery.

A CAUTION:

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.

A CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

5-4

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode, People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded, Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the Delco Freedom@ battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present.

’ Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you.

Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

6. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock and the vehicles could be damaged. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.

8. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

engines

the

Fans or moving engine other

can you parts injure badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts

once

7. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

9. Now connect the

battery’s

black negative (-) cable to the good negative (-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch any-thmg until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

5-5

13. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

10. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away

from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

11. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

12. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

5-6

A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a Buick dealer or a professional towing service tow your Park Avenue. See “Roadside Assistance’’ in the Index. If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding after-market items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions and illustrations may not be correct. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle can only be towed with certain equipment, as described later in this section.

0 That your vehicle has front-wheel drive.

The make, model and year of your vehicle. 0 Whether you can still move the shift lever. 0 If there was an accident, what was damaged. When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.

To help avoid injury to you or others:

Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is being towed.

0 Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds.

Never tow with damaged parts not fully secured. Never get under your vehicle after it has been lifted by the tow truck. Always secure the vehicle on each side with separate safety chains when towing it. Never use J-hooks. Use T-hooks instead.

5-7

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t adequately secured. This can cause a collision, serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or steel cables before it is transported. Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed vehicle. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots. Never use J-hooks. They will damage drivetrain and suspension components.

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key in the OFF position. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transaxle should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released. Don’t have your vehicle towed on the front wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the front wheels, be sure to follow the speed and distance restrictions later in this section .or your transaxle will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the front wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

5-8

Front Towing

Attach T-hook chains behind the front wheels into the bottom slots of the cradle rails on both sides.

Position a 4" x 4" wood beam across the sling chains contacting the bottom of the radiator support. Position the lower sling crossbar just behind the rear edge of the front bumper.

5-9

Rear Towing Tow Limits -- 55 rnph (88 k d ) , 500 miles (800 krn) Attach T-hook chains on both sides in the slotted holes in the floor pan support rails just ahead of the rear wheels.

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

5-10

Position the lower sling crossbar directly under the rear bumper.

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

5-11

Engine Overheating You will find a warning light about a hot engine, as well as a coolant temperature gage, on your Buick instrument panel. If your vehicle is equipped with the optional Driver Information Center, an Engine Coolant Low warning will appear on the display. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

5-12

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn off your air conditioner. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (0) or THIRD (3).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn ofthe engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-13

When you decide it's safe to lift the hood, here's what you'll see:

A CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don't do anything else until it cools down.

A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank

5-14

The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

I NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.

5-15

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.)

I NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mix.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there's one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator

pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come oul

at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-19

I

3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the mTLL

COLD mark.

5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

5-20

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fans.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Thrn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

5-22

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk. Lift the carpeting from the floor of the trunk. Lift and remove the spare tire cover for access to the spare tire and jack. Remove the wheel wrench and jack from the jack container. Turn the spare tire retainer bolt counterclockwise and remove the retainer assembly.

5-23

I

Wheel Covers The following steps are necessary if you have the alloy (aluminum) wheel with a center cover that conceals the wheel nuts.

Remove the spare tire from the trunk. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section for more information about the compact spare. The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) and the wheel wrench (B).

5-24

1. Insert the flat end of the wheel wrench in the notch and

pry off the center cover. Do not drop the cover or lay it face down, as it could be scratched or damaged.

2. If your vehicle has this aluminum wheel, you may have plastic wheel nut caps. Use the wheel nut wrench to remove the wheel nut caps and to loosen the wheel nuts.

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. Use the wheel wrench to loosen the wheel nuts, but

don’t remove them yet.

2. The jack has a bolt at the

end. Attach the wheel wrench to the bolt to create a jack handle.

3. When reinstalling the decorative nut caps, tighten the

caps snugly with the wheel wrench, then continue one-eighth of a turn rotation for steel caps and one-quarter of a turn rotation for plastic caps. It is not required to remove the center cover on this wheel; however, if it should be necessary, it should be removed from the back side by pushing out with a blunt tool and not pried off from the front. When reinstalling the cap, there is a plastic alignment pin which must be aligned with the notch in the wheel to assure proper installation.

4. When replacing the cover after the wheel is put back

on the vehicle, do not use a hammer or mallet to install the cover.

5-25

(28 CM) A

4. Near each wheel well is a notch in the plastic trim

panel to position the jack head. You’ll find the word JACK and an arrow stamped into the plastic near each notch. Position the jack under the vehicle and raise the jack head until it fits firmly against the sheet metal next to the word JACK. Do not raise the vehicle yet. Put the compact spare tire near you.

3. Rotate the wheel wrench clockwise (to the right) to

lower the jack head a few inches.

5-26

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

5. Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench

clockwise in the jack. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

6. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

5-27

' 7. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

/1\ CAUTMN:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

A CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

5-28

8. Replace the wheel nuts

with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

9. Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench

counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

10. Using the wheel

wrench, tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence.

A CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 Nom).

5-29

NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

Don’t try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

NOTICE:

Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

Storing the Flat Tire and Tools

L!b, CAUTION: I

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

After you’ve put the compact spare tire on your vehicle, you’ll need to store the flat tire in your trunk. Use the following procedure to secure the flat tire in the trunk.

5-30

Store the flat tire as far forward in the trunk as possible. Store the jack and wheel wrench in their compartment in the trunk.

Storing the Spare Tire and Tools

A CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 Wa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. You must calibrate the Tire Pressure Monitor after installing or removing the compact spare. See “Driver Information Center - Controls and Displays” in the Index. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

Store the compact spare tire and tools as shown in the diagram.

A SPARE TIRE COVER

The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section.

5-32

NOTICE:

When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.

I NOTICE:

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

1 NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn the system off. (See “Traction Control System” in the Index.) Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

f i NOTES

kb NOTES

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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your Buick. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

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Service Fuel Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Air Cleaner Supercharger Oil Automatic Transaxle Fluid Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires

6-56 6-57 6-6 1 6-64 6-64 6-65 6-66 6-67 6-73 6-75 6-76 6-77 6-77 6-78 6-78

Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Buick Cleaning the Outside of Your Buick Underbody Maintenance Chemical Paint Spotting Appearance Care Materials Chart Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Electrical System Removing the Rear Seat Cushion Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Air Conditioning Refrigerants Engine Specifications Vehicle Dimensions Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

Service Your Buick dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Delco

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper Buick Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your Buick than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Buick” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

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You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your Buick dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.) If you have the 3800 engine (VJN Code K), use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. If you’re using fuel rated at the recommended octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

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If you have the 3800 Supercharged engine (VIN Code l), use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher. With the 3800 Supercharged engine, in an emergency, you may be able to use a lower octane -- as low as 87 -- if heavy knocking does not occur. If you are using 91 or higher octane unleaded gasoline and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. At a minimum, the gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91 (at least 89 for middle grade and 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine.

If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood tune-up label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized Buick dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not his fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Buick dealer for service.

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To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

I NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors International Product Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Filling Your Tank

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

The cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

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The release button for the fuel door is to the left of the steering column.

There is also a manual fuel door release. This mechanism is located in the top of the tnxnk compartment, on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Pull the white tab to release the fuel door.

While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door. If necessary twist it clockwise to secure it. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

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When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Buick” in the Index.

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Hood Release

To open the hood, pull the handle inside the vehicle. It is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

Checking Things Under the Hood A CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

A CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

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Then go to the front of the vehicle and locate the secondary hood release. It is under the front edge of the grille.

Lift up on this black lever as you lift up the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it finnly.

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3800 Series I1 (Code K) Engine (L36) When you open the hood on the 3800 (L36) engine, here’s what you will see (3800 Supercharged (L67) engine similar):

“14 ,....