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vehicle.


If your vehicle is equipped with the 5.3L engine the coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment toward the rear of the engine on the driver side of the vehicle See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD FILL line or a little higher. The COLD FILL line is near the bottom of the recovery tank and has an arrow pointing down at it. How to Add Coolant to the Recovery Tank


{ CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.


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How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System (3.8L V6 Engine)


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push


down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.


3. Open the coolant air


bleed valve located on the thermostat housing, near the upper radiator hose.


Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
Engine Compartment Overview for more information on location.


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4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-25 Engine Coolant for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from the air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is filled.


5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine


and the compartment.


6. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the


COLD FILL line.


7. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but


leave the radiator pressure cap off.


8. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the


upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.


9. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


10. Then replace the radiator pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


11. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level


in the coolant recovery tank should be at the COLD FILL line when the engine is cold.


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How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System (5.3L V8 Engine)


1. You can remove the


pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise.


If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means that there is still some pressure left.


5. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the


COLD FILL line.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap and remove it. 3. Fill the cooling system with the proper DEX-COOL®


coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-25 Engine Coolant Engine Coolant for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine


and the compartment.


6. Install the coolant recovery tank cap and the


pressure cap. After a day or two of driving, when the engine is cold, check the coolant level in the recovery tank. If it is low, refill it to the COLD FILL line.


If the coolant in the recovery tank is constantly low, you should have a dealer/retailer service department inspect the vehicle for leaks.


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If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,


Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The radiator pressure cap is located in the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,


Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


Engine Overheating The vehicle has several indicators to warn of engine overheating. There is a coolant temperature gage and a warning light on the instrument panel cluster that indicate an overheated engine condition. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-38 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-38 for more information. In addition, if your vehicle is equipped with a Driver Information Center (DIC), you will find an ENGINE COOLANT HOT and a REDUCED POWER STOP WHEN SAFE message displayed on the DIC. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56
for more information.


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You may decide not to lift the hood when this warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Then check to see if the engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, do not continue to run the engine and have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: If the engine catches fire while driving with no coolant, the vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-34 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


If Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment


{ CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop the engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-34 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


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If No Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: (cid:129) Climbs a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer.


If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam: 1. Turn the air off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and


to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary.


3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral)


while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle.


If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down. Also, see ″Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode″ later in this section.


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(cid:129) (cid:129) Power Steering Fluid


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The REDUCED POWER STOP WHEN SAFE message will come on in the Driver Information Center (DIC), if the vehicle has one, along with the engine coolant temperature warning light on the instrument panel, to indicate the vehicle has entered overheated engine protection operating mode. The temperature gage will also indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-15.


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How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment


cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on


the dipstick.


If your vehicle has the 3.8L V6 engine or the 5.3L V8 engine, the fluid level should be between the ADD and HOT marks when the engine is cold, and at the HOT mark when the engine is hot. If the fluid is at the ADD mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering fluid should be added.


What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage the vehicle and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.


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Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow


the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.


Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer fluid is low, a low washer fluid light may appear on the instrument panel cluster. See Low Washer Fluid Warning Light on page 3-45
for more information. In addition, if your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the LOW WASHER FLUID message will display when the fluid level is low. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56 for more information.


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


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(cid:129) Brakes Brake Fluid


The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down:


The brake fluid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the fluid level goes back up.


(cid:129) A fluid leak in the brake hydraulic system can also


cause a low fluid level. Have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.


Do not top off the brake fluid. Adding fluid does not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{ CAUTION:


If too much brake fluid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the brake warning light comes on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-35.


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(cid:129) What to Add Use only new DOT-3 brake fluid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{ CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake


hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If brake fluid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-93.


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(cid:129) Brake Wear This vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal firmly.


{ CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 5-106. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time the brakes are applied, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear.


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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed.


Battery This vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


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If the battery has a very low charge or is dead, it might not be possible to remove the ignition key from the ignition switch or shift out of PARK (P). See Shifting Out of Park on page 2-32. Vehicle Storage


{ CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-41 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This helps keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.


Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{ CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put the transmission in P (Park) before setting the parking brake.


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Notice: If you leave the radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not use your vehicle’s battery for jump starting. It has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal, located on the underhood fuse block, for that purpose. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


If your vehicle has a V6 engine, to uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, press the tab at the bottom of the fuse block and lift the cover up.


3.8L V6 Engine


Always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery.


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5. If your vehicle has the


5.3L V8 engine, to uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, remove the fuse block cover.


{ CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5.3L Engine


{ CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{ CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


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6. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.


Notice: If you connect a negative cable to the Engine Control Module (ECM), ECM mounting bracket or any cables that attach to the ECM bracket, you may damage the ECM. Attach the negative cable to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, other than the ECM, ECM bracket or cables attached to the ECM bracket.


Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−), or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


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3.8L V6 Engine


9. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (–) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


10. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


11. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


12. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


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5.3L Engine


7. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote


Negative (−) Terminal


B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote


Negative (−) Terminals


C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


5. Return the fuse block cover to its original position. Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described.


The vehicle should be: (cid:129) Placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a


light colored wall.


(cid:129) On a perfectly level surface which is level all the


way to the wall.


(cid:129) Be placed so it is at a right angle to the wall. (cid:129) Clear of any snow, ice or mud on it. (cid:129) Be fully assembled, with the tires properly inflated and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.


(cid:129) Be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel, with the spare tire in its proper location, and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver seat.


Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws under the hood near the headlamps.


The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm male hex.


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To adjust the vertical aim on the headlamps:


1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11. 2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low-beam headlamp. Record the distance.


Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 4. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the


width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4.


5. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. Do not place directly on the headlamp. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the flat surface.


6. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm male hex.


7. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam.


3. At the wall measure from the ground upward (A) to


the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.


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8. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim.


9. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite


headlamp.


Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-52. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.


Halogen Bulbs


{ CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To replace a taillamp, turn signal, sidemarker, stoplamp or back-up lamp bulb: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-12. 2. Remove the convenience net.


4. Pull back the trunk trim.


5. Turn the two wing nuts counterclockwise and


remove them.


6. Pull out the taillamp assembly and disconnect the


wiring harness.


3. Turn the four plastic wing nuts retaining the trunk


trim counterclockwise. There are two wing nuts located on the driver side (shown) and two located on the passenger side of the vehicle.


5-50


12. Push the taillamp assembly back into place on the


vehicle.


13. Turn the two wing nuts clockwise to reinstall them. 14. Place the trunk trim to its original location.


A. Taillamp B. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn


Signal Lamp


C. Sidemarker Lamp D. Taillamp E. Back-up Lamp


7. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it. 8. Pull the old bulb straight out of the bulb socket. 9. Push the new bulb straight into the bulb socket until


it clicks.


10. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall. 11. Reconnect the wiring harness.


15. Turn the four plastic wing nuts clockwise to reinstall


them back into their original location.


16. Return the convenience net to its original location.


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3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the


bulb straight out of the socket.


4. Push the bulb straight into the socket and turn the


socket clockwise.


5. Turn and push the license plate lamp back through


the fascia opening.


6. Reinstall the screws for the license plate lamp.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamps


Bulb Number


Back-Up Lamps


Rear Sidemarker, License Plate Lamp, and Taillamp


Stoplamps and Taillamps


921


194


3057


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.


License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Remove the screws for either of the license


plate lamps.


2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward


through the fascia opening.


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Windshield Replacement Your vehicle is equipped with an acoustic windshield. If you ever have to have your windshield replaced be sure to get an acoustic windshield so you will continue to have the benefits an acoustic windshield can provide. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information on wiper blade inspection. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. Here is how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away from


the windshield.


2. While holding the wiper arm, pull the clip up from


the blade connecting point, and pull the blade assembly down toward the windshield to remove it from the wiper arm.


3. Install the new wiper blade onto the wiper arm and


snap the clip into place.


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CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:129) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61.


(cid:129) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.


If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer.


{ CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


(cid:129) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


5-54


Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example


(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-72.


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(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


Compact Spare Tire Example


(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost


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air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-89
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-76. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. (F) Tire Size : A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.


(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


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Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20.


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Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.


Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61
and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20.


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Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-68.


UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-72. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20.


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Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much flexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road hazards


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, if the vehicle has one. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-89.


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How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability.


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Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-64 for additional information.


Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,


including interference that may cause undesired operation.


The TPMS operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,


including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.


Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.


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Tire Pressure Monitor Operation This vehicle may have a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). The TPMS is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.


When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster.


If your vehicle has the uplevel Driver Information Center (DIC), a warning message to check the pressure in a specific tire displays at the same time the low tire pressure warning light comes on. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. Vehicles that have the uplevel DIC


buttons can also check tire pressure levels by pressing the gages button. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-48 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56
The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. Your vehicle’s TPMS system can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-67 and Tires on page 5-54. Notice: Liquid tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. Sensor damage caused by using a tire sealant is not covered by your warranty. Do not use liquid tire sealants.


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TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. If your vehicle has the uplevel Driver Information Center (DIC), A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: (cid:129) One of the road tires has been replaced with the spare tire. The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor. The TPMS sensor matching process was started but not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.


(cid:129) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or


damaged. The TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/retailer for service.


(cid:129) Replacement tires or wheels do not match your


vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-69.


(cid:129) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction.


If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light comes on and stays on.


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(cid:129) TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel positions, in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors may also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key. You have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you need to start over. The TPMS sensor matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the


engine off.


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3. Press the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter’s


LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time for approximately five seconds. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode and the TPMS sensor matching process can begin.


4. Start with the driver side front tire. 5. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve


stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for 10 seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds to sound, confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position.


6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire, and repeat


the procedure in Step 5.


7. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire, and repeat


the procedure in Step 5.


8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the


procedure in Step 5.


9. After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the driver


side rear tire, the horn chirps two more times to signal the tire learning process has ended. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF.


10. Set all four tires to the recommended air


pressure level as indicated on the tire and loading information label.


11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.


Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect your vehicle’s tires, including the spare tire, if the vehicle has one, for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-68
for more information. Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that your vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new. Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate the tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-68 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-74.


When rotating the vehicle’s tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the compact spare tire, if the vehicle has one, in the tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20.


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Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-64. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-106.


When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions influence when you need new tires.


One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


{ CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76.


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You need new tires if any of the following statements are true: (cid:129) You can see the indicators at three or more places


around the tire.


(cid:129) You can see cord or fabric showing through the


tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information.


Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall near the tire size. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC Spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-55 for additional information.


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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of your vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-67 for information on proper tire rotation.


{ CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-89.


{ CAUTION:


If you use bias-ply tires on the vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on the vehicle.


If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system could give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC Spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-62.


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Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.


Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, antilock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.


{ CAUTION:


If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.


See Buying New Tires on page 5-69 and Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for additional information.


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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires.


While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate.


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Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.


{ WARNING:


The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.


{ WARNING:


The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis.


Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.


If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, or Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, and TPMS sensors for your vehicle.


{ CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.


Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76 for more information.


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Used Replacement Wheels


{ CAUTION:


Putting a used wheel on the vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


Tire Chains


{ CAUTION:


If your vehicle has P225/55R17 or P235/50R18
size tires, do not use tire chains, there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.


If your vehicle has a tire size other than


Notice: P225/55R17 or P235/50R18 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


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If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.


{ CAUTION:


Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, it is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. If a jack is provided with the vehicle, only use it for changing a flat tire.


If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6.


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{ CAUTION:


Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in P (Park). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart while


the vehicle is raised.


4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the


vehicle.


To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.


When the vehicle has a flat tire (B), use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks (A).


A. Wheel Block B. Flat Tire The following information explains how to use the jack and change a tire.


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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you will need is located in the trunk. 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-12. 2. Remove the convenience net if the vehicle has one. 3. Remove the spare tire cover.


4. Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and remove it. 5. Remove the compact spare tire.


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6. Turn the nut holding the jack counterclockwise and


remove it. Then remove the jack and wrench.


The tools you will need to change a tire include the jack (A), extension and protection guide (B), and wheel wrench (C).


Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire You vehicle may have wheels with exposed wheel nuts. If so, go to the Removing the Wheel Nuts section. If the vehicle has steel wheel covers with plastic nut caps, the wheel nuts are hidden behind the cap. To remove the wheel cover: 1. Do a safety check before proceeding. See Changing


a Flat Tire on page 5-76.


2. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen


the plastic wheel nut caps. If needed, finish loosening them by hand. The nut caps will not come off of the wheel cover. The edge of the wheel cover could be sharp, so do not try to remove the cover with your bare hands. Do not drop the cap or lay it face down, as it could become scratched or damaged. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.


Once you have removed the wheel cover or plastic nut caps, use the following procedure to remove the flat tire and install the spare tire.


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Removing the Wheel Nuts


1. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen


the wheel nuts, but do no remove them yet.


2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the jack


lift head.


3. Find the jacking location using the diagram above


and corresponding triangular-shaped hoisting notches located on the underside of the vehicle’s plastic molding. The front location is about 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel well. The rear location is about 9 inches (22.8 cm) from the front edge of the rear wheel well.


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{ CAUTION:


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


{ CAUTION:


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.


4. Put the compact spare tire near you.


5. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle


clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the compact spare tire to fit under the vehicle.


6. Remove all wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.


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{ CAUTION:


{ CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-76.


Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash.


9. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Turn each nut clockwise by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.


7. Remove any rust or dirt


from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces, and spare wheel.


8. Install the compact spare tire.


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10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


{ CAUTION:


Incorrect or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-106 for wheel nut torque specification.


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can


Notice: lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-106 for the wheel nut torque specification.


11. Tighten the wheel nuts


firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.


Notice: Wheel covers will not fit on your vehicle’s compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, the cover or the spare could be damaged.


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Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools (Base Model)


{ CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


After the compact spare tire has been installed on the vehicle, store the flat tire in the trunk. When storing a full-size tire, use the extension with the extension protector, located in the foam holder, to help avoid wheel surface damage.


To store a full-size tire: 1. Install the tools in their original location in the trunk


area and secure.


2. Place the tire valve stem facing down and the


protector/guide placed through a wheel bolt hole.


3. Remove the protector and attach the retainer


securely.


4. Store the cover as far forward as possible. When storing a compact spare tire in the trunk, put the protector back in the foam holder. The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-89. Use this as a guide for storing the compact spare tire and tools.


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A. Cover B. Retainer C. Compact Spare Tire D. Wing Nut E. Jack F. Wheel Wrench G. Extension Protector H. Foam Holder I. Bolt Screw


Compact Spare Tire


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A. Retainer B. Full-Size Flat Tire C. Protective Guide D. Extension Bolt Screw E. Wing Nut F. Jack G. Wheel Wrench H. Foam Holder I. Bolt Screw


Full-Size Flat Tire


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3. Remove the protector and attach the retainer


securely.


4. Store the cover as far forward as possible. When storing a compact spare tire in the trunk, put the protector back in the foam holder. When storing the compact spare tire, the tire must be stored valve stem down. The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-89. Use this as a guide for storing the compact spare tire and tools.


Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools (Super Only)


{ CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


After the compact spare tire has been installed on the vehicle, store the flat tire in the trunk. When storing a full-size tire, use the extension with the protector, located in the foam holder, to help avoid wheel surface damage. To store a full-size tire: 1. Install the tools in their original location in the trunk


area and secure.


2. Place the tire valve stem facing down and the


protector/guide placed through a wheel bolt hole.


Compact Spare Tire


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A. Retainer B. Full-Size Flat Tire C. Protective Guide D. Extension Bolt Screw E. Wing Nut F. Jack G. Wheel Wrench H. Foam Holder I. Bolt Screw


Full-Size Flat Tire


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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when the vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on the vehicle, stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have the full-size tire repaired or replaced at your convenience. Of course, it is best to replace the spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible. The spare tire will last longer and be in good shape in case it is needed again.


Notice: When the compact spare is installed, do not take the vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails which can damage the tire, wheel and other parts of the vehicle. Do not use the compact spare on other vehicles. And do not mix the compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They will not fit. Keep the spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains will not fit the compact spare. Using them can damage the vehicle and can damage the chains too. Do not use tire chains on the compact spare.


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Appearance Care


Interior Cleaning The vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on the upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from the upholstery. It is important to keep the upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. The vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause

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