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for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.


Control of a Vehicle The following three systems help to control the vehicle while driving — brakes, steering, and accelerator. At times, as when driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. Meaning, you can lose control of the vehicle. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-7, Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 4-8, and StabiliTrak® System on page 4-6. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect vehicle performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.


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Braking See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-35. Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. Deciding to push the brake pedal is perception time. Actually doing it is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between the vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied.


Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much faster with a lot of heavy braking. Keeping pace with the traffic and allowing realistic following distances eliminates a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If the engine ever stops while the vehicle is being driven, brake normally but do not pump the brakes. If the brakes are pumped, the pedal could get harder to push down. If the engine stops, there will still be some power brake assist but it will be used when the brake is applied. Once the power assist is used up, it can take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect vehicle performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.


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Antilock Brake System (ABS) This vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When the engine is started and the vehicle begins to drive away, ABS checks itself. A momentary motor or clicking noise might be heard while this test is going on, and it might even be noticed that the brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.


If there is a problem with ABS, this warning light stays on. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) Warning Light on page 3-36.


Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that the wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel.


ABS can change the brake pressure to each wheel, as required, faster than any driver could. This can help the driver steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As the brakes are applied, the computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: ABS does not change the time needed to get a foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, there will not be enough time to apply the brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even with ABS. Using ABS Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let antilock work. The antilock pump or motor might be heard operating and the brake pedal might be felt to pulsate, but this is normal.


Braking in Emergencies ABS allows the driver to steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help more than even the very best braking.


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StabiliTrak® System The vehicle may be equipped with a vehicle stability enhancement system called StabiliTrak. It is an advanced computer controlled system that assists with directional control of the vehicle in difficult driving conditions. StabiliTrak activates when the computer senses a discrepancy between the intended path and the direction the vehicle is actually traveling. StabiliTrak selectively applies braking pressure at any one of the vehicle’s brakes to assist the driver with keeping the vehicle on the intended path. When the system activates, STABILITY CONTROL ACTIVE comes on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56. The system may be heard or felt while it is working. This is normal. Continue to steer the vehicle in the intended direction.


The Traction Control warning light comes on the instrument panel cluster when a problem is detected with StabiliTrak.


If there is a problem detected with StabiliTrak, a SERVICE STABILITY SYSTEM or STABILITY CONTROL OFF message will be displayed on the DIC. When this message is displayed, the system is not operational. Driving should be adjusted accordingly. If cruise control is being used when StabiliTrak activates, the cruise control automatically disengages. The cruise control can be reengaged when road conditions allow. See Cruise Control on page 3-10 for more information.


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For vehicles with the 5.3L V8 engine, StabiliTrak can be turned off by pressing and holding the traction control button, located above the radio, for approximately five seconds. A STABILITY CONTROL OFF message will be displayed on the DIC when StabiliTrak is turned off. StabiliTrak will remain off until the traction control button is pressed once to turn it back on, or until the engine is restarted.


Traction Control System (TCS) The vehicle may have a Traction Control System (TCS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system works the front brakes and reduces engine power to limit wheel spin. It may also upshift the transmission to limit wheel spin. The system may be heard or felt while it is working, but this is normal. The TRACTION CONTROL ACTIVE message on the Driver Information Center (DIC) will be displayed when the system is limiting wheel spin. If cruise control is being used when TCS begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control automatically disengages. The cruise control can be re-engaged when road conditions allow. See Cruise Control on page 3-10. TCS operates in all transmission shift lever positions. But the system can upshift the transmission only as high as the shift lever position that was chosen, so use the lower gears only when necessary. See Automatic Transmission Operation on page 2-26.


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This light, along with the TRACTION CONTROL OFF message, will display briefly on the DIC when TCS is not on.


If there is a problem with the system, the SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM message will also come on in the DIC. When this warning light is on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust driving accordingly. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, TCS should always be left on. But the system can be turned off if needed. TCS should be turned off if the vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud or snow and rocking the vehicle is required. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-20 and If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-19. To turn TCS on or off, press the TCS button located above the radio.


When TCS is turned off, the TCS warning light will come on along with the TRACTION CONTROL OFF message on the DIC. It will turn off when TCS is turned back on. If TCS is limiting wheel spin when the TCS button is pressed, the TCS warning light will come on and TCS will turn off right away. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect the vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for more information.


Enhanced Traction System (ETS) The vehicle may have an Enhanced Traction System (ETS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system reduces engine power and may also upshift the transmission to limit wheel spin. The system may be heard or felt while it is working, but this is normal. The TRACTION CONTROL ACTIVE message on the Driver Information Center (DIC) will be displayed when the system is limiting wheel spin.


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If cruise control is being used when ETS begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control automatically disengages. The cruise control can be reengaged when road conditions allow. See Cruise Control on page 3-10 for more information. ETS operates in all transmission shift lever positions. But the system can upshift the transmission only as high as the chosen shift lever position, so use the lower gears only when necessary. See Automatic Transmission Operation on page 2-26 for more information.


This warning light, along with the TRACTION CONTROL OFF message, will display briefly on the DIC when ETS is not on.


If there is a problem with the system, the SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM message will also come on in the DIC. When this warning light is on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly.


To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, ETS should always be left on. But the system can be turned off if needed. ETS should be turned off if the vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud or snow and rocking the vehicle is required. See If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-19.


To turn ETS on or off, press the Traction Control button located above the radio.


When ETS is turned off, the ETS warning light will come on along with the TRACTION CONTROL OFF message on the DIC. It will turn off when ETS is turned back on. If ETS is limiting wheel spin when the traction control button is pressed, the ETS warning light comes on and ETS will turn off right away.


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Steering Power Steering If power steering assist is lost because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, the vehicle can be steered but it will take more effort. Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. Traction in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and vehicle speed. While in a curve, speed is the one factor that can be controlled. If there is a need to reduce speed, do it before entering the curve, while the front wheels are straight. Try to adjust the speed so you can drive through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.


Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. These problems can be avoided by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot stop in time because there is no room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. The vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply the brakes. See Braking on page 4-4. It is better to remove as much speed as possible from a collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.


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Off-Road Recovery The vehicle’s right wheels can drop off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while driving.


An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, it can be turned a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.


If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that the vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. Turn the steering wheel 3 to 5 inches, 8 to 13 cm, (about one-eighth turn) until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.


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Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing: Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait.


(cid:129) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane.


(cid:129) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to


pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.


(cid:129) Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle. (cid:129) When you are being passed, ease to the right.


Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.


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Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to the vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If the traction control system is off, then an acceleration skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If the vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, the vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited.


(cid:129) While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until the vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.


Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.


Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside


rearview mirror.


(cid:129) Slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.


(cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle


clean — inside and out.


(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or


curves.


No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.


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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:129) Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled. (cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires


on page 5-54. Turn off cruise control.


Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.


{ CAUTION:


Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


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(cid:129) Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows


clean — inside and outside?


(cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape?


Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to recommended pressure?


(cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have


up-to-date maps?


Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead


and to the sides.


(cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments


often.


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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:129) Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling


system, and transmission.


(cid:129) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a


lower gear.


{ CAUTION:


If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.


{ CAUTION:


Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.


(cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut


across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).


(cid:129) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks


area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.


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(cid:129) Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.


If the vehicle has the Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-7 or Enhanced Traction System (ETS) on page 4-8, it improves the ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When driving through deep snow, turn off the traction system to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-5 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.


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Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:


Turn on the Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6. Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.


{ CAUTION:


Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:


(cid:129) Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


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CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:129) Check again from time to time to be sure


snow does not collect there.


(cid:129) Open a window about two inches (5 cm) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air.


(cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or under the


instrument panel.


(cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting


that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.


For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-33. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust.


(cid:129) (cid:129) Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful. To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat. Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel.


If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-20. If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.


{ CAUTION:


If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-75.


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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-26.


Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Vehicle Certification label.


{ CAUTION:


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


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Tire and Loading Information Label


The Tire and Loading Information label also lists the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation, see Tires on page 5-54 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle, see “Certification Label” later in this section.


Label Example


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The Tire and Loading Information label lists the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The vehicle capacity weight includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options.


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5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load


from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle.


If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-28 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.


Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of


occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver


and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


4. The resulting figure equals the available


amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).


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Example 1


Example 2


Item


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


Total


Item


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


750 lbs (340 kg)


250 lbs (113 kg)


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and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight. Certification Label


A vehicle specific Certification label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo.


Example 3


Item


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


0 lbs (0 kg)


Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight


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Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. If the vehicle is going to carry a heavy load, spread it out. See “Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit” earlier in this section.


{ CAUTION:


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.


If things like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else are put inside the vehicle, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


{ CAUTION:


Things you put inside the vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:129) Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In


a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.


(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like


suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. (cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint


in the vehicle.


(cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless


you need to.


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Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?


Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:129) What is the distance that will be travelled? Some


vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Is the proper towing equipment going to be used? See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-15.


Towing


Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing. Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly.


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(cid:129) (cid:129) Dinghy Towing


Dolly Towing


If the vehicle is towed with all four wheels


Notice: on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Do not tow the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. The vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. If the vehicle must be towed, a dolly should be used. See “Dolly Towing” that follows for more information.


The vehicle can be towed with its front wheels on a dolly. To tow the vehicle using a dolly: 1. Attach the dolly to the tow vehicle following the


dolly manufacturer’s instructions.


2. Drive the front wheels onto the dolly. 3. Shift the transmission to P (Park). 4. Firmly set the parking brake. 5. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead


position with a clamping device designed for towing.


4-27


6. Remove the key from the ignition. 7. Secure the vehicle to the dolly following the


manufacturer’s instructions.


8. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle


being towed is firmly attached to the dolly.


Towing a Trailer


{ CAUTION:


The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.


4-28


Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for the safety of the driver and the passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, axles, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. The trailer also adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.


Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles


(1600 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, transmission or other parts could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


(cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.


Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts.


(cid:129) Do not tow a trailer when the outside temperature is


above 100°F (38°C).


Three important considerations have to do with weight:


the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on the vehicle’s tires.


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Ask your dealer/retailer for trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-6 for more information.


4-29


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


4-30


Using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Certification/Tire label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-20. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.


Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. Here are some rules to follow:


The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


(cid:129) Will any holes be made in the body of the vehicle


when the trailer hitch is installed? If there are, then be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes are not sealed, dirt, water, and deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the exhaust can get into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-33 in the Index for more information.


Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Because the vehicle has antilock brakes, do not try to tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all. Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you will be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.


4-31


(cid:129) Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.


Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


4-32


Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel flash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also flash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving on Grades Notice: Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal engine and transmission temperatures may result and damage the vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to allow the engine and transmission to cool. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating. If the engine does overheat, see Engine Overheating on page 5-31.


Parking on Hills


{ CAUTION:


Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.


If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the


brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking


brake and shift the transmission into P (Park).


5. Release the brake pedal.


4-33


Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing The cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-31. Changing a Tire When Trailer Towing If the vehicle gets a flat tire while towing a trailer, be sure to secure the trailer and disconnect it from the vehicle before changing the tire.


Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you:


start the engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid, engine oil, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


4-34


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4
California Perchlorate Materials


Requirements .............................................5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of


the Vehicle .................................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-6
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-6
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-7
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-15
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-18
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-20
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-22
Cooling System ............................................5-24
Engine Coolant .............................................5-25
Radiator Pressure Cap ..................................5-31


Pressure Cap ...............................................5-31
Engine Overheating .......................................5-31
Overheated Engine Protection


Operating Mode ........................................5-34
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-34
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-35
Brakes ........................................................5-37
Battery ........................................................5-40
Jump Starting ...............................................5-41
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-46
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-49
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-49
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker,


Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps ...................5-50
License Plate Lamp ......................................5-52
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-52
Windshield Replacement .................................5-53
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-53
Tires ..............................................................5-54
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-55
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-58
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-61
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-62
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-64
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-67


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-68
Buying New Tires .........................................5-69
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-71
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-72
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-74
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-74
Tire Chains ..................................................5-75
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-76
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-76
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-78
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing


the Spare Tire ..........................................5-79


Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and


Tools (Base Model) ...................................5-84


Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and


Tools (Super Only) ....................................5-87
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-89
Appearance Care ............................................5-90
Interior Cleaning ...........................................5-90
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-91
Leather .......................................................5-92
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other


Plastic Surfaces ........................................5-92
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-93
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-93


Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-93
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-94
Finish Care ..................................................5-94
Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-95
Aluminum or Chrome-Plated


Wheels and Trim .......................................5-96
Tires ...........................................................5-97
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-97
Finish Damage .............................................5-97
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-97
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-97
Vehicle Identification ......................................5-98
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-98
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-98
Electrical System ............................................5-99
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-99
Headlamp Wiring ..........................................5-99
Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-99
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-99
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-99
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ........................5-100
Underhood Fuse Block ................................5-101
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-106
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-106


5-2


Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Damage to vehicle components resulting from the installation or use of non-GM certified parts, including control module modifications, are not covered under the terms of the vehicle warranty and may affect remaining warranty coverage for affected parts. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-67.


5-3


Doing Your Own Service Work


{ CAUTION:


You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and


other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.


5-4


Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies the vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-98.


If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16. This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-66. Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 6-15.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle.


5-5


Gasoline Octane If the vehicle has the 3.8L V6 engine (VIN Code 2), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. If the vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code C), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but the vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-7
for additional information.


California Fuel If the vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.


5-6


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits from fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels.


Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


5-7


Filling the Tank


{ CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off the engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


5-8


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.


{ CAUTION:


Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-93. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40.


The vehicle may also have a check gas cap warning light, which displays on the instrument panel cluster if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See Check Gas Cap Light on page 3-47 for more information. If the vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the CHECK GAS CAP message displays if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56 for more information.


{ CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40.


5-9


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{ CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.


(cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while


pumping fuel.


Checking Things Under the Hood


{ CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{ CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


5-10


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the interior hood


release handle with this symbol on it. It is located to the left of the steering column below the instrument panel.


2. Push the secondary hood release lever, located under the center of the hood above the grille, up and to the right to disengage it.


3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, make sure all the filler caps are properly secured. Pull the hood down and close it firmly.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3.8L V6 engine, this is what you will see:


5-12


A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35.


B. Battery on page 5-40. C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-41.


D. Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-29. E. Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-101. F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-24.


G. Radiator Pressure Cap on page 5-31. H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Out of View).


See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-34.


I. Electric Engine Cooling Fans. See Cooling System


on page 5-24.


J. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


K. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


L. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick.


See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-22.


M. Engine Coolant Bleed Valve. See “How to Add


Coolant to the Radiator” under Cooling System on page 5-24.


N. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-37.


O. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.


5-13


When you open the hood on the 5.3L V8 engine, here is what you will see:


5-14


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35.


B. Battery on page 5-40. C. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-101.


D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-41.


E. Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-29. F. Pressure Cap. See Pressure Cap on page 5-31. G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-34.


H. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


I. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


J. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick.


See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-22.


K. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-37.


L. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. M. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-24.


5-15


When to Add Engine Oil


3.8L V6 Engine


Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


5.3L V8 Engine


If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-106.


5-16


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things:


(cid:129) GM6094M


Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


(cid:129) SAE 5W-30


SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


(cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol


Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Cold Temperature Operation If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required specification, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information.


5-17


Engine Oil Additives / Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all that is needed for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system flushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed.


When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light or, if the vehicle has the Driver Information Center (DIC), a CHANGE OIL SOON message comes on. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 3-43 or DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, the oil must be changed at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


5-18


How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a change engine oil light or CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, reset the system: (cid:129) Vehicles with Driver Information Center (DIC)


1. Press the option button on the DIC until ENGINE OIL MONITOR appears on the DIC screen.


2. Press the set/reset button to reset the system.


The next screen indicates that the CHANGE OIL SOON message has been reset.


If the vehicle has the uplevel DIC, when the gages button is pressed and the OIL LIFE REMAINING mode appears, it should read 100 percent OIL LIFE REMAINING.


3. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF.


(cid:129) Vehicles without Driver Information Center (DIC)


1. With the engine off, turn the ignition key to


ON/RUN.


2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal


slowly three times within five seconds.


3. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF, then start the


vehicle.


If the light or message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.


5-19


To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter do the following:


3.8L V6 Engine shown


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The engine air cleaner/filter is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.


5-20


5.3L V8 Engine


1. Lift the filter cover tabs on top of the engine air


cleaner/filter housing.


2. Push the filter cover housing toward the engine. 3. Pull out the filter. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter.


5. To reinstall the cover, position the tabs through the slots on the housing. If your vehicle has one of the V6 engines, a notch on the sides of the filter cover will indicate the correct engagement.


6. Push the cover tabs on top of the housing to lock


the cover in place.


{ CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire


Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


5-21


Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check the automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.


5-22


Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:129) At high speed for quite a while.


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


(cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running.


2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in P (Park).


3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the


shift lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in P (Park).


4. Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.


(cid:129) Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The transmission fluid dipstick handle has this symbol on it, and is located near the rear of the engine compartment.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or


paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the


lower level. The fluid level must be in the crosshatched area.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the


dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.


Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.


4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


5-23


Cooling System The cooling system allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature.


5.3L V8 Engine


A. Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank


3.8L V6 Engine


A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans


5-24


{ CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{ CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-31.


5-25


What to Use


{ CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture: (cid:129) Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C),


outside temperature.


(cid:129) Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C),


engine temperature.


(cid:129) Protects against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Will not damage aluminum parts. (cid:129) Helps keep the proper engine temperature. Notice: If an improper coolant mixture is used, the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11 for more information.


If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used


5-26


Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done.


The coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment toward the rear of the engine on the passenger side of the

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