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5. Release the parking brake.


4-37


(cid:127) Towing a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That is the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assembly, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What is more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.


4-38


If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer Here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. Ask a hitch


dealer about sway controls.


(cid:127) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) the vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that the vehicle tows a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


(cid:127) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.


Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts.


There are three important considerations have to do with weight:


The weight of the trailer. The weight of the trailer tongue. The total weight on the vehicle’s tires.


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that is on the vehicle. Ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:


Buick Customer Assistance Center P.O. Box 33136
Detroit, MI 48232-5136


In Canada, write to:


General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7


4-39


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


4-40


When using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After the trailer is loaded, weigh the trailer and the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. The correct weight could be achieved simply by moving some items around in the trailer.


Safety Chains Chains should always be attached between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can be turned. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Because the vehicle has anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into the vehicle’s brake system. If that is done, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.


Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Tire-Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Be sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If a weight distribution hitch is used, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit before applying the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. Here are some rules to follow:


The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. If holes need to be made in the body of the vehicle to install a trailer hitch, then be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the exhaust can get into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-27. Dirt and water can, too.


4-41


(cid:127) (cid:127) Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, get to know the rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires, and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check the electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.


Passing More passing distance is needed up ahead when towing a trailer. And, because the vehicle is a good deal longer with the trailer, you will need to go much farther beyond the vehicle you have passed before you can return to the proper lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


4-42


Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When towing a trailer, the vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on the instrument panel will flash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you are about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. You may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long hill or steep downgrade. If the vehicle is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. If towing a trailer, you may want to drive in THIRD (3) instead of AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (X). Shift to a lower gear as needed.


Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if the rig ever has to be parked on a hill, here is how to do it: 1. Apply the regular brakes, but do not shift into


PARK (P) yet.


2. Have someone place chocks under the


trailer’s wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply the parking


brake, and shift to PARK (P).


5. Release the regular brakes.


4-43


When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply the regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you: (cid:127) Start the engine. (cid:127) Shift into a gear. (cid:127) Release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store


the chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle will need service more often when it pulls a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid; which should not be overfilled; engine oil, drive belt, cooling system, and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If trailering, it is a good idea to review this information before starting on a trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing The cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-25.


4-44


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside


of Your Vehicle ...........................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling Your Tank ............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-13
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-16
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-18
Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-19
Engine Coolant .............................................5-22
Radiator Pressure Cap ..................................5-24
Engine Overheating .......................................5-25
Overheated Engine Protection


Operating Mode ........................................5-26
Cooling System ............................................5-27


Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-34
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-35
Brakes ........................................................5-36
Battery ........................................................5-39
Jump Starting ...............................................5-40
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-45
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-47
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-47
Headlamps ..................................................5-47
Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps ................5-48
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-49
Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps ............5-50
Back-Up Lamps ............................................5-51
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-52
Tires ..............................................................5-53
Tire Sidewall Labelling ...................................5-54
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-57
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-60
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-61
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-63
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-64
Buying New Tires .........................................5-64
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-65
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-67


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Wheel Replacement ......................................5-67
Tire Chains ..................................................5-68
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-69
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-70
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-71
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the


Spare Tire ................................................5-73
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-79
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-81
Appearance Care ............................................5-82
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-82
Vinyl ...........................................................5-84
Leather .......................................................5-84
Instrument Panel ..........................................5-85
Interior Plastic Components ............................5-85
Glass Surfaces .............................................5-85
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-85
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-85
Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-86
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-86
Finish Care ..................................................5-86


Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-87
Aluminum Wheels .........................................5-87
Tires ...........................................................5-87
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-88
Finish Damage .............................................5-88
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-88
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-88
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-89
Vehicle Identification ......................................5-90
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-90
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-90
Electrical System ............................................5-90
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-90
Headlamp Wiring ..........................................5-91
Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-91
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-91
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-91
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..........................5-91
Underhood Fuse Block ..................................5-94
Capacities and Specifications ..........................5-96


5-2


Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


5-3


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and


other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-11. Your vehicle may have an airbag system. If it does, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-58
before attempting to do your own service work. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.


5-4


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle.


Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine.


A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org/fuel_charter.htm. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.


5-5


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-36. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.


5-6


Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


5-7


Filling Your Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


5-8


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether below the fuel fill opening.


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-86. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it to the right (clockwise) until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-36.


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-36.


5-9


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into


approved containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


5-10


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the interior hood


release handle located below the instrument panel, to the left of the steering column.


2. Push the secondary hood release, located under


the hood, to the right to disengage it.


3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, make sure all of the filler caps are properly secured. Pull the hood down and close it firmly.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the engine, you will see the following:


5-12


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35.


B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-39. C. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-94.


D. Remote Positive (+) Battery Terminal. See Jump


Starting on page 5-40.


E. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap


on page 5-24.


F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-27.


G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-34.


H. Electric Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on


page 5-27.


I. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-13.


J. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-13.


K. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking


the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-19.


L. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under


Brakes on page 5-36.


M. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.


5-13


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-96. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


5-14


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, if it is going to be 0°F (–18°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available, you may use SAE 10W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


5-15


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON light will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


5-16


How to Reset the CHANGE OIL SOON Light The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON light being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, reset the system by performing the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly


three times within five seconds. If the CHANGE OIL SOON light flashes, the system is resetting.


3. Turn the key to OFF, then start the vehicle. The oil


life will change to 100 percent. If the CHANGE OIL SOON light comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


5-17


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at every oil change and replace at the first oil change after 25,000 miles (40 000 km). How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.


To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Loosen the screw and clamp on the air duct.


2. Lift the two clips


located on the top of the filter assembly to unlock the cover.


3. Disconnect the duct and reposition it while removing


the cover.


4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Reinstall the air duct and cover by reversing


Steps 1 to 3.


5-18


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire


Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check the automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:


In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.


(cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or


delivery service.


If the vehicle is not used under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


5-19


(cid:127) (cid:127) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the


engine running.


(cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


(cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The automatic transaxle fluid dipstick handle is the black loop located toward the rear of the engine. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


(cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.


5-20


(cid:127) (cid:127) 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or


paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the


lower level. The fluid level must be in the crosshatched area.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the


dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.


Notice: Use of automatic transaxle fluid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transaxle fluid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check,” earlier in this section.


4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


5-21


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If this coolant mixture is used, nothing else needs to be added.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant is added. The following explains the cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating or if coolant needs to be added to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 5-25. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-22


(cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If coolant has to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer check the cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


If you use the proper coolant, you do not


Checking Coolant The engine coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle at the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark or a little higher.


When the engine is warm, the level should be up to the HOT mark or a little higher.


5-23


Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See “How to Add Coolant to the Radiator” later in this section.


{CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-27.


Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: The radiator cap on your vehicle is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck. The radiator pressure cap is located near the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


5-24


Engine Overheating The coolant temperature gage and the engine coolant temperature warning light on the instrument panel can indicate an overheated engine condition. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-35
and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-35. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” under Engine Overheating on page 5-25
for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


If your engine catches fire because you


Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” under Engine Overheating on page 5-25 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


5-25


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheated engine warning can indicate a serious problem. If there is an overheated engine warning and you do not see or hear any steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: (cid:127) Climbs a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer.


If an overheated engine warning appears with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Adjust the heater to the highest temperature and fan speed settings and open the window as necessary.


If the overheated engine warnings no longer exist, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warnings do not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away.


5-26


If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If the warning still exists, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode The overheated engine protection operating mode allows the vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, this protection mode alternates firing groups of cylinders to help prevent engine damage. In this mode, there will be a significant loss in power and engine performance. The engine coolant temperature gage indicator will move to the red area, and the engine coolant temperature warning light will come on, showing that an overheated engine condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheated engine protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-13.


(cid:127) (cid:127) Cooling System When it is safe to lift the hood, this is what you will see:


{CAUTION:


A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Radiator Pressure Cap


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD mark on the coolant recovery tank. If it is not, there may be a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.


5-27


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not the vehicle needs service.


Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-28


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If a problem has not been found yet, but the coolant level is not at the COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-22 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the COLD mark, start the vehicle.


5-29


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. Remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.


If the overheated engine warnings continue, there is one more thing that can be done. Add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done.


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


1. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise to its first stop. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If a hiss is heard, wait for it to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


5-30


2. Keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down


as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


3. After the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed


valves. There are two bleed valves.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


One is located on the thermostat housing.


The other is located on the thermostat bypass tube.


5-31


4. Fill the radiator with the


proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-22
for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


If a stream of coolant is coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valves after the radiator is filled.


5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine


and the compartment.


6. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the COLD


mark on the coolant recovery tank.


7. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank,


but leave the radiator pressure cap off.


5-32


8. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the


upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.


9. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


10. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during


this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrow on the pressure cap lines up properly.


11. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in


the coolant recovery tank should be at the HOT mark when the engine is hot or at the COLD mark when the engine is cold.


5-33


Power Steering Fluid


The power steering fluid reservoir is located at the back of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless there appears to be a leak in the system or an unusual noise is heard. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment


cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean.


5-34


3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level


on the dipstick.


When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the H (hot) mark. When it is cold, the level should be at the C (cold) mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, fluid should be added.


What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When the vehicle needs windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If the vehicle will be operating in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the reservoir is full.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the


manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for reservoir location.


5-35


(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings.


5-36


You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-32. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-82.


Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.


5-37


(cid:127) Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


5-38


Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-40
for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-63.


5-39


Jump Starting If the battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.


5-40


1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start the vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL (N) before setting the parking brake.


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the auxiliary power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the vehicle’s radio!


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the


positive (+) and negative (−) terminal location on each vehicle.


To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, squeeze the sides of the red plastic cap and pull it upward. Always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose. The terminal is located on the same side of the engine compartment as your battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


5-41


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


5-42


6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)


terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Now connect the negative (−) cable to the


negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


5-43


If the jumper cables are removed in the


Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its


original position.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote


Negative (−) Terminal


B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote


Negative (−) Terminals


C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


5-44


Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a headlamp system equipped with horizontal and vertical aim indicators. The aim has been pre-set at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though the vertical and horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales. If the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers, for horizontal aim, or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you, for vertical aim. If you believe the headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take it to your dealer for service; however, it is possible for you to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure. Notice: To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.


To check the aim, the vehicle should be properly prepared as follows:


The headlamps must be off for one hour prior to aiming and must remain off during this procedure. The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface. If necessary, pads may be used on an uneven surface to help level the vehicle. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud attached to it. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. There should not be any cargo or loading of the vehicle. It should however, have a full fuel tank and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.


(cid:127) Close all doors.


Tires should be properly inflated.


(cid:127) Rock the vehicle to stabilize the suspension.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Driver’s Side Headlamp Shown


Passenger’s Side Headlamp Shown


A. Vertical Aim Adjustment Screw B. Horizontal Aim Adjustment Screw


Open the hood and locate the vertical and horizontal aim indicators. The aiming screw for the vertical aim indicator (A) is at the center of the headlamp cover and the aiming screw for the horizontal aim indicator (B) is on the outboard side of the headlamp cover.


A. Horizontal Aim Adjustment Screw B. Horizontal Block Index Plate C. Vertical Aiming Level


Start with the horizontal aim. The adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx® socket. Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim. 1. Turn the horizontal aiming screw until the indicator


is lined up with zero.


2. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the level bubble


is lined up with zero.


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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulb, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-51. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.


Headlamps 1. Open the hood.


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


2. Pull up on the headlamp retainers (A) to release the


assembly locator tabs.


3. Disconnect the electrical connector (B) from the


headlamp assembly.


4. Slide the headlamp assembly out of the slots.


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8. Connect the new headlamp bulb to the electrical connector, making sure the connector tab snaps into place.


9. Insert the bulb socket into the headlamp assembly. 10. Reverse all steps to reassemble the headlamp


assembly, then check the lamps.


Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps 1. Remove the headlamp assembly. Refer to the


removal procedure earlier in this section.


2. Remove the rubber bulb access cover. 3. Twist the sidemarker lamp socket, located on the outboard side of the headlamp assembly, counterclockwise and pull it from the headlamp assembly.


4. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old bulb


from the socket.


5. Push the new bulb into the socket. 6. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the


lamp assembly.


5. Remove the rubber access cover from behind the


bulb being replaced.


6. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn and remove it


from the headlamp assembly.


7. Lift the plastic locking tab on the electrical connector


and pull the connector from the headlamp bulb socket.


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Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) 1. Open the trunk.


2. Reach through the access opening in the trunk lid.


3. Remove the old bulb by turning it counterclockwise


one-quarter turn.


4. Push the new bulb into the bulb socket. 5. Turn the socket clockwise one-quarter turn


to reinstall.


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Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps


3. Remove the three plastic wing nuts (A).


One wing nut is located on top of the carpet. The other two are located underneath the carpet.


4. Pull the taillamp housing (B) away from the body of


the vehicle.


5. Squeeze the tab on the socket and turn the


socket counterclockwise.


6. Pull out the socket. 7. Pull the old bulb out of the socket. There are


two bulbs on each taillamp.


8. Push in a new bulb. 9. Reverse these steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.


1. Open the trunk. 2. Remove the convenience net If the vehicle has one.


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Back-Up Lamps


5. Twist and pull the old bulb from the bulb socket. 6. Twist and push the new bulb into the lamp socket. 7. Twist and push the lamp socket into the


lamp assembly.


8. Reverse Steps 2 and 3 to reinstall the


lamp covering.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamps


Bulb Number


1. Open the trunk. 2. Remove the seven hex nuts (A) from the


lamp covering.


3. Remove the lamp covering. 4. Twist and pull the bulb socket (B) from the


lamp assembly.


3155


1156


Back-Up Lamps Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps High-Beam Headlamps Low-Beam Headlamps Taillamps and Stoplamps/Turn Signal Taillamp For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer.


9005
9006


3057


194


4157NAK


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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking each time maintenance is performed. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. 1. Turn on the wipers to LO. 2. Turn off the ignition while the wipers are at the outer positions of the wiper pattern. The blades are more accessible for removal or replacement while in this position.


3. Pull the windshield wiper arm 3 to 4 inches


(7.5 to 10 cm) away from the windshield.


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4. While holding the wiper arm away from the glass,


push the release clip from under the windshield wiper arm connecting point and slide the blade assembly down toward the glass to remove it from the wiper arm.


5. Slide the new wiper blade securely on the wiper


arm until you hear the release clip click into place. See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14 for the type of windshield wiper blades to use.


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.


{CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.


If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


5-53


Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.


Passenger Vehicle Tire Example


(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.


(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-65.


(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


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Compact Spare Tire Example


(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-69.


Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.


(A) P-Metric Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 70, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70 percent as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

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