2005 Buick Century Owners Manual

change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

5-16

How to Reset the CHANGE OIL SOON Light The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON light being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, reset the system by performing the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly

three times within five seconds. If the CHANGE OIL SOON light flashes, the system is resetting.

3. Turn the key to OFF, then start the vehicle. The oil

life will change to 100 percent. If the CHANGE OIL SOON light comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

5-17

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at every oil change and replace at the first oil change after 25,000 miles (40 000 km). How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.

To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Loosen the screw and clamp on the air duct.

2. Lift the two clips

located on the top of the filter assembly to unlock the cover.

3. Disconnect the duct and reposition it while removing

the cover.

4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Reinstall the air duct and cover by reversing

Steps 1 to 3.

5-18

{CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire

Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check the automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.

(cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or

delivery service.

If the vehicle is not used under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

5-19

(cid:127) (cid:127) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

(cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

(cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The automatic transaxle fluid dipstick handle is the black loop located toward the rear of the engine. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

(cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.

5-20

(cid:127) (cid:127) 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the crosshatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.

Notice: Use of automatic transaxle fluid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transaxle fluid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Specification. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check,” earlier in this section.

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

5-21

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If this coolant mixture is used, nothing else needs to be added.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant is added. The following explains the cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating or if coolant needs to be added to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 5-25. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

5-22

(cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture,

Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If coolant has to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer check the cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

If you use the proper coolant, you do not

Checking Coolant The engine coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle at the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark or a little higher.

When the engine is warm, the level should be up to the HOT mark or a little higher.

5-23

Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See “How to Add Coolant to the Radiator” later in this section.

{CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-27.

Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: The radiator cap on your vehicle is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck. The radiator pressure cap is located near the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

5-24

Engine Overheating The coolant temperature gage and the engine coolant temperature warning light on the instrument panel can indicate an overheated engine condition. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-35
and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-35. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” under Engine Overheating on page 5-25
for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

If your engine catches fire because you

Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” under Engine Overheating on page 5-25 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

5-25

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheated engine warning can indicate a serious problem. If there is an overheated engine warning and you do not see or hear any steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: (cid:127) Climbs a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer.

If an overheated engine warning appears with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Adjust the heater to the highest temperature and fan speed settings and open the window as necessary.

If the overheated engine warnings no longer exist, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warnings do not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away.

5-26

If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If the warning still exists, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode The overheated engine protection operating mode allows the vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, this protection mode alternates firing groups of cylinders to help prevent engine damage. In this mode, there will be a significant loss in power and engine performance. The engine coolant temperature gage indicator will move to the red area, and the engine coolant temperature warning light will come on, showing that an overheated engine condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheated engine protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-13.

(cid:127) (cid:127) Cooling System When it is safe to lift the hood, this is what you will see:

{CAUTION:

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Radiator Pressure Cap

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD mark on the coolant recovery tank. If it is not, there may be a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

5-27

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not the vehicle needs service.

Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

5-28

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If a problem has not been found yet, but the coolant level is not at the COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-22 for more information.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the COLD mark, start the vehicle.

5-29

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. Remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.

If the overheated engine warnings continue, there is one more thing that can be done. Add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done.

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

1. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise to its first stop. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If a hiss is heard, wait for it to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-30

2. Keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down

as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. After the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed

valves. There are two bleed valves.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

One is located on the thermostat housing.

The other is located on the thermostat bypass tube.

5-31

4. Fill the radiator with the

proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-22
for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

If a stream of coolant is coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valves after the radiator is filled.

5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine

and the compartment.

6. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the COLD

mark on the coolant recovery tank.

7. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank,

but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

5-32

8. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the

upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.

9. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

10. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during

this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrow on the pressure cap lines up properly.

11. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in

the coolant recovery tank should be at the HOT mark when the engine is hot or at the COLD mark when the engine is cold.

5-33

Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located at the back of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless there appears to be a leak in the system or an unusual noise is heard. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean.

5-34

3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level

on the dipstick.

When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the H (hot) mark. When it is cold, the level should be at the C (cold) mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, fluid should be added.

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When the vehicle needs windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If the vehicle will be operating in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the reservoir is full.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the

manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for reservoir location.

5-35

(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings.

5-36

You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-32. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-82.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.

5-37

(cid:127) Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

5-38

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-40
for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-63.

5-39

Jump Starting If the battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.

5-40

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start the vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL (N) before setting the parking brake.

If you leave your radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the auxiliary power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the vehicle’s radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the

positive (+) and negative (−) terminal location on each vehicle.

To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, squeeze the sides of the red plastic cap and pull it upward. Always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose. The terminal is located on the same side of the engine compartment as your battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

5-41

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

5-42

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the negative (−) cable to the

negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

5-43

If the jumper cables are removed in the

Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its

original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

5-44

Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a headlamp system equipped with horizontal and vertical aim indicators. The aim has been pre-set at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though the vertical and horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales. If the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers, for horizontal aim, or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you, for vertical aim. If you believe the headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take it to your dealer for service; however, it is possible for you to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure. Notice: To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.

To check the aim, the vehicle should be properly prepared as follows:

The headlamps must be off for one hour prior to aiming and must remain off during this procedure. The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface. If necessary, pads may be used on an uneven surface to help level the vehicle. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud attached to it. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. There should not be any cargo or loading of the vehicle. It should however, have a full fuel tank and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.

(cid:127) Close all doors.

Tires should be properly inflated.

(cid:127) Rock the vehicle to stabilize the suspension.

5-45

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Driver’s Side Headlamp Shown

Passenger’s Side Headlamp Shown

A. Vertical Aim Adjustment Screw B. Horizontal Aim Adjustment Screw

Open the hood and locate the vertical and horizontal aim indicators. The aiming screw for the vertical aim indicator (A) is at the center of the headlamp cover and the aiming screw for the horizontal aim indicator (B) is on the outboard side of the headlamp cover.

A. Horizontal Aim Adjustment Screw B. Horizontal Block Index Plate C. Vertical Aiming Level

Start with the horizontal aim. The adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx® socket. Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim. 1. Turn the horizontal aiming screw until the indicator

is lined up with zero.

2. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the level bubble

is lined up with zero.

5-46

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulb, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-51. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Headlamps 1. Open the hood.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

2. Pull up on the headlamp retainers (A) to release the

assembly locator tabs.

3. Disconnect the electrical connector (B) from the

headlamp assembly.

4. Slide the headlamp assembly out of the slots.

5-47

8. Connect the new headlamp bulb to the electrical connector, making sure the connector tab snaps into place.

9. Insert the bulb socket into the headlamp assembly. 10. Reverse all steps to reassemble the headlamp

assembly, then check the lamps.

Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps 1. Remove the headlamp assembly. Refer to the

removal procedure earlier in this section.

2. Remove the rubber bulb access cover. 3. Twist the sidemarker lamp socket, located on the outboard side of the headlamp assembly, counterclockwise and pull it from the headlamp assembly.

4. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old bulb

from the socket.

5. Push the new bulb into the socket. 6. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the

lamp assembly.

5. Remove the rubber access cover from behind the

bulb being replaced.

6. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn and remove it

from the headlamp assembly.

7. Lift the plastic locking tab on the electrical connector

and pull the connector from the headlamp bulb socket.

5-48

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) 1. Open the trunk.

2. Reach through the access opening in the trunk lid.

3. Remove the old bulb by turning it counterclockwise

one-quarter turn.

4. Push the new bulb into the bulb socket. 5. Turn the socket clockwise one-quarter turn

to reinstall.

5-49

Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps

3. Remove the three plastic wing nuts (A).

One wing nut is located on top of the carpet. The other two are located underneath the carpet.

4. Pull the taillamp housing (B) away from the body of

the vehicle.

5. Squeeze the tab on the socket and turn the

socket counterclockwise.

6. Pull out the socket. 7. Pull the old bulb out of the socket. There are

two bulbs on each taillamp.

8. Push in a new bulb. 9. Reverse these steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.

1. Open the trunk. 2. Remove the convenience net If the vehicle has one.

5-50

Back-Up Lamps

5. Twist and pull the old bulb from the bulb socket. 6. Twist and push the new bulb into the lamp socket. 7. Twist and push the lamp socket into the

lamp assembly.

8. Reverse Steps 2 and 3 to reinstall the

lamp covering.

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamps

Bulb Number

1. Open the trunk. 2. Remove the seven hex nuts (A) from the

lamp covering.

3. Remove the lamp covering. 4. Twist and pull the bulb socket (B) from the

lamp assembly.

3155

1156

Back-Up Lamps Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps High-Beam Headlamps Low-Beam Headlamps Taillamps and Stoplamps/Turn Signal Taillamp For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer.

9005
9006

3057

194

4157NAK

5-51

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking each time maintenance is performed. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. 1. Turn on the wipers to LO. 2. Turn off the ignition while the wipers are at the outer positions of the wiper pattern. The blades are more accessible for removal or replacement while in this position.

3. Pull the windshield wiper arm 3 to 4 inches

(7.5 to 10 cm) away from the windshield.

5-52

4. While holding the wiper arm away from the glass,

push the release clip from under the windshield wiper arm connecting point and slide the blade assembly down toward the glass to remove it from the wiper arm.

5. Slide the new wiper blade securely on the wiper

arm until you hear the release clip click into place. See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14 for the type of windshield wiper blades to use.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

5-53

Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger Vehicle Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

5-54

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-65.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

5-55

Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-69.

Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) P-Metric Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 70, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70 percent as high as it is wide.

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

5-56

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.

5-57

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of a asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.

Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

5-58

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64.

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-65.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs. (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.

5-59

A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81.

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading

(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

5-60

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Tire Pressure Monitor System If your vehicle has the tire inflation monitor system, it detects differences in tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The system can alert you if a tire is low – but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tires on page 5-53. When the LOW TIRE light comes on the instrument panel, stop as soon as you can and check all the tires for damage. If a tire is flat, see If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-69. Also, check the tire pressure in all four tires as soon as possible. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60. In order for the tire inflation system to function properly, the vehicle must be driven between 45 and 90 minutes before the system determines the tire pressure in each tire. The driving time may be longer depending on an individual’s driving habits. The data does not have to be accumulated during a single trip. Once determined, the system will store the tire pressures until the system is reset.

5-61

The system normally takes 15 to 20 minutes of driving time in each of three speed ranges to determine tire pressures. The speed ranges are 15 to 40 mph (25 to 65 km/h), 40 to 65 mph (65 to 105 km/h) and above 65 mph (105 km/h). When the storage of the tire inflation information is complete, the LOW TIRE light will come on the instrument panel after two to eight minutes if one tire is inflated 12 psi (83 kPa) less than the other three tires. Detection thresholds may be higher and detection times may be longer on rough roads, curves and at high speeds. The system is not capable of inflation differences at speeds greater than 70 mph (110 km/h). The tire inflation monitor system will not alert you if the pressure in more than one tire is low, if the system is not properly calibrated, or if the vehicle is moving faster than 70 mph (110 km/h). The LOW TIRE light will stay on while the ignition is on, until the system is reset.

Do not reset the tire inflation monitor system without first correcting the cause of the problem and checking and adjusting the pressure in all four tires. If the system is reset when the tire pressures are incorrect, it will not function properly and may not alert you when a tire is low. Any time a tire’s pressure is adjusted, the tires are rotated, or one or more tires is repaired or replaced, the tire inflation monitor system will need to be reset. The system also needs to be reset when new tires are purchased and if the vehicle’s battery has been disconnected. To reset the system, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to RUN. 2. Remove the passenger’s side instrument panel

cover to access the fuse block.

3. Press and hold the RESET button in the fuse block

for about five seconds. The LOW TIRE light will come on and flash three times. Then it will go off. If the light does not go off, see your dealer for service.

5-62

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-67 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for scheduled rotation intervals.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation.

After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Reset the Tire Inflation Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-61. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-96.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70.

5-63

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires your vehicle needs, look at the tire and loading information label. For more information about this label and its location on your vehicle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, GM recommends that you get tires with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, load range, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

5-64

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) {CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81.

{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

5-65

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

5-66

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. If you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70 for more information.

5-67

Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has P225/60R16 size tires, don’t use tire chains, there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

5-68

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.

If your vehicle has a tire size other than Notice: P225/60R16 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class ‘‘S’’ type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-69

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

{CAUTION:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart

while the vehicle is raised.

4. Do not allow passengers to remain in

the vehicle.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

5-70

The following information will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you will need is in the trunk.

1. Turn the center nut on the compact spare tire cover counterclockwise to remove it.

Then lift and remove the cover. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81 for more information about the compact spare tire.

2. Remove the spare tire.

5-71

3. Turn the nut holding the jack counterclockwise and

remove it. Then remove the jack and wrench.

The tools you will be using include the jack (A), extension and protection guide (B) and wheel wrench (C).

5-72

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire If the vehicle has steel wheel covers with center caps, the wheel nuts are hidden behind the cap. To remove the wheel cover, do the following: 1. Pry off the center cap by using the flat end of the

wheel wrench at the notch on the cap.

2. Use the wheel wrench to loosen the plastic wheel

nut caps in a counterclockwise direction. If needed, finish loosening them by hand. The nut caps will not come off.

3. Use the flat end of the wheel wrench and pry along the edge of the cover until it comes off. Pull off the wheel cover and set it aside. The edge of the wheel cover could be sharp, so don’t try to remove the cover with your bare hands. Do not drop the cap or lay it face down, as it could become scratched or damaged.

If the vehicle has aluminum wheels and wheel center caps, the wheel nuts are hidden behind the center cap. Pry off the center cap by using the flat end of the wheel wrench at the notch. Do not drop the cap or lay it facedown, as it could become scratched or damaged. Once you have removed the wheel cover or center cap, use the following procedure to remove the flat tire and install the spare tire.

5-73

1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts,

but do not remove them yet.

2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the

jack lift head.

3. For jacking at the vehicle’s front location, put the jack lift head (C) about 6 inches (15 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel opening (B) or just behind the two bolts (A) as shown.

5-74

{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

{CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

5-75

For jacking at the vehicle’s rear location, put the jack lift head (B) about 5 inches (13 cm) from the front edge of the rear wheel opening (C) or just behind the off-set (A) as shown. 4. Put the compact spare tire near you.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

7. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

5. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle

clockwise. It should be far enough off the ground for the spare compact tire to fit underneath the wheel well.

6. Remove all of the wheel nuts and take off the

flat tire.

5-76

8. Install the compact spare tire.

{CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

9. Put the wheel nuts

back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

5-77

11. Tighten the wheel nuts

firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.

Notice: Wheel covers will not fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare. Do not try to put the wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It will not fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

{CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-96 for wheel nut torque specification.

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead

Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-96 for the wheel nut torque specification.

5-78

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

{CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

After the compact spare tire is put on the vehicle, store the flat tire in the trunk. Use the following procedure to secure the flat tire in the trunk.

When storing a full-size tire, use the extension with the protector, located in the foam holder, to help avoid wheel surface damage. To store a full-size tire, place the tire valve stem facing down, and then remove the protector and attach the retainer securely. Store the cover as far forward as possible. When storing a compact spare tire in the trunk, put the protector/guide back in the foam holder.

5-79

The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-81. See the storage instructions label to return the compact spare to the trunk properly. Be sure to calibrate low tire inflation system after you replace the compact spare tire with a full-sized tire. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60.

A. Retainer B. Cover C. Compact Spare Tire D. Nut E. Jack F. Wheel Wrench G. Extension and Protector H. Bolt Screw