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a speed above 10 km/h. Whenyouovertakeanothervehicle: (cid:127) The system reacts if you overtake another


vehicle at a speed of up to 10 km/h faster than the other vehicle.


Whenyouareovertakenbyanother vehicle: (cid:127) The system reacts if you are overtaken by a vehicle travelling up to 70 km/h faster than you are travelling.


143


Starting and driving


BLIS (Blind Spot Information System) – option


Cleaning In order to work most effectively the BLIS camera lenses must be clean. The lenses can be cleaned with a soft cloth or damp sponge. Clean the lenses carefully so that they are not scratched.


WARNING!


(cid:127) The lenses are electrically heated to melt ice or snow. If necessary, brush snow away from the lenses.


WARNING!


(cid:127) The system does not react to bicycles or mopeds. (cid:127) The BLIS cameras can be disrupted by intensive light or when driving in the dark when there are no light sources (e.g. street lighting or other vehicles). The system may then interpret the lack of light as if the cameras have been blocked. In both cases a message is shown in the dashboard display. When driving in such conditions the system can be temporarily switched off (see the information on the next page). When the text message has faded the system returns to full functionality. (cid:127) The BLIS cameras have the same limitations as the human eye, i.e. they "see" worse in heavy snowfall or thick fog for example.


WARNING!


(cid:127) BLIS does not work in sharp bends. (cid:127) BLIS does not work when the car is reversing. (cid:127) A wide trailer coupled to the car can conceal other vehicles in adjacent lanes. It can prevent the vehicle in the screened area from being detected by BLIS.


System function in daylight and darkness Daylight In daylight the system reacts to the shape of the surrounding vehicles. The system is designed to detect motor vehicles such as cars, trucks, buses and motorcycles. Darkness In darkness the system reacts to the headlamps of surrounding vehicles. If its headlamps are not switched on then the system does not detect the vehicle. This means for example that the system does not react to a trailer without headlamps which is towed behind a car or truck.


144


BLIS (Blind Spot Information System) – option


Starting and driving


Text in the display


BLIND-SPOT SYST SERVICE REQUIRED BLIND-SPOT SYST R CAMERA BLOCKED


door panels flash three times. Press the READ button, see page 47, to clear the text message. BLIS system messages System status BLIS not functioning Right-hand camera blocked Left-hand camera blocked Both cameras blocked BLIS system off BLIS system on BLIS function reduced


BLIND-SPOT SYST CAMERAS BLOCKED BLIND-SPOT INFO SYSTEM OFF BLIND-SPOT INFO SYSTEM ON BLIS FUNCTION REDUCED


BLIND-SPOT SYST L CAMERA BLOCKED


The messages above are only shown if the ignition key is in position II (or if the engine is running) and BLIS is active (i.e. if the driver has not switched off the system).


145


Switching off and reactivating BLIS (cid:127) BLIS is activated automatically each time the ignition is switched on. The indicator lamps in the door panels flash three times when the ignition is switched on.


(cid:127) The system can be switched off by


pressing the BLIS button in the switch panel in the centre console (see illus- tration above). The LED in the button goes out when the system is switched off and a text message is shown in the display in the dashboard.


(cid:127) BLIS can be reactivated by pressing the button. An LED in the button then comes on, a new text message is shown in the display and the indicator lamps in the


Starting and driving


146


General Tyre pressure Warning triangle and spare wheel Changing wheels Emergency puncture repair


Wheels and tyres 148
151
152
154
157


147


Wheels and tyres


General Driving characteristics and tyres The tyres greatly affect the car’s driving characteristics. The type of tyre, dimensions, tyre pressure and speed rating are important for how the car performs. When changing tyres, ensure that tyres of the same type and dimensions, and preferably also the same make, are fitted to all four wheels. Follow the recommended tyre pressures specified on the tyre pressure label, see page 151. Designation of dimensions The dimensions are stated on all car tyres. Example: 225/70R16 102H. 225
70


Section width (mm) Ratio between section height and width (%) Radial ply Rim diameter in inches (") Tyre load index (in this case 615 kg) Speed rating (in this case 210 km/h). Speed ratings The car is approved as a whole, which means that dimensions and speed ratings must not differ from those specified on the vehicle’s registration document. The only exception to


16
102


148


these conditions is winter tyres (both those with studs and those without). If such a tyre is chosen, the car must not be driven faster than the speed rating of the tyre (for example, class Q can be driven at a maximum of 160 km/h). Remember that traffic regulations determine how fast a car can be driven, not the speed class of the tyres. Note! Maximum permitted speeds indicated.


160 km/h (used only on winter tyres) 190 km/h 210 km/h 240 km/h 270 km/h


New tyres


Tyres are perishable. After a few years they begin to harden at the same time as the friction capacity/charac- teristics gradually deteri- orate. Therefore aim to get as fresh tyres as possible when you replace them. This is especially important with regard to winter tyres. The week and year of manufacture, the tyre’s DOT marking (Department of Transportation), are stated with four digits, for example 1502. The tyre in


the illustration was manufactured in week 15
of 2002. Tyre age All tyres older than six years should be checked by an expert even if they seem undamaged. The reason for this is that tyres age and decompose, even if they are hardly ever or never used. The function can therefore be affected due to the tyre’s constituent materials being broken down, and it should then not be used. This also applies to spare tyres, winter tyres and tyres saved for future use. Examples of external signs which indicate that the tyre is unsuitable for use are cracks or discolouration. The age of the tyre can be determined by the DOT marking, see illustration above.


General


Tyres with tread wear indicators Tread wear indicators are narrow treadless bands across the width of the tread. On the side of the tyre are the letters TWI (tread wear indicator). When only 1.6 mm of tread remains, this band is clearly visible. Change the tyres as soon as possible. Remember that tyres with little tread depth provide very poor grip in rain and snow. Winter tyres Volvo recommends winter tyres with particular dimensions. These are stated on the tyre pressure label, see page 151 for its location. The tyre dimensions are dependent


on the engine variant. When driving on winter tyres, these must be fitted to all four wheels. NOTE! Ask a Volvo dealer which rim and tyre types are most suitable. Studded tyres Studded winter tyres should be run in gently for 500-1000 km so the studs settle properly into the tyre. This gives the tyre, and especially the studs, a longer lifespan. NOTE! The legal provisions for the use of studded tyres vary from country to country. Tread depth Road conditions with ice, slush and low temperatures place considerably higher demands on tyres than summer conditions. It is therefore not recommended to drive on winter tyres that have a tread depth of less than four millimetres. Snow chains Snow chains may only be used on the front wheels. This also applies to all-wheel-drive cars. Never drive faster than 50 km/h with snow chains. Avoid driving on bare ground as this wears out both the snow chains and tyres. Never use quick-fit snow chains as the space between the brake disks and the wheels is too small.


Wheels and tyres


IMPORTANT! Use Volvo genuine snow chains or equiv- alent chains designed for the car model, and tyre and rim dimensions. Consult an authorised Volvo workshop.


149


Wheels and tyres


General


are adversely affected. Tyres with the greatest tread depth should always be fitted to the rear of the car (to decrease the risk of skidding). Wheels should be stored lying down or hanging up, and not standing up. Contact an authorised Volvo workshop if you are uncertain about tread depth.


Thearrowshowsthetyre’sdirectionof rotation. Summer and winter wheels When summer and winter wheels are changed they should be marked with which side of the car they were mounted on, for example L for left and R for right. Tyres with a tread pattern which are designed to only turn in one direction have the direction of rotation marked with an arrow on them. The tyre should always rotate in the same direction throughout its lifespan. Tyres should only be switched between front and rear positions, never between left and right-hand sides, or vice versa. If the tyre is mounted incorrectly, the car’s braking characteristics and capacity to force rain, snow and slush out of the way


150


Tyre pressure


Wheels and tyres


Recommended tyre pressure The tyre pressure decal on the inside of the fuel filler flap sho ws what pressure the tyres should have with different load and speed conditions. 1. Other markets (not USA, Canada)


1:1. Volvo original tyre 1:2. Spare tyre


2. Australia


Checking the tyre pressure Check the tyre pressure regularly. The correct tyre pressure is shown in the tyre pressure table. The stated tyre pressures refer to cold tyres. (Cold tyres mean the tyres are the same temperature as the ambient temperature). Driving with the wrong tyre pressure adversely affects the car’s driving character- istics and can increase tyre wear. After just a few kilometres of driving, the tyres warm up and the pressure increases. Therefore air should not be released if the pressure is checked when the tyres are warm. However the pressure should be increased if it is too low.


151


IMPORTANT! The car must never be driven fitted with more than one temporary spare wheel.


Wheels and tyres


Warning triangle and spare wheel


location that is appropriate for the traffic situation.


After use: – Pack everything in reverse order. Make sure that the warning triangle with case is securely fastened in the compartment. Temporary spare The spare wheel1 is only intended to be used for the short time it takes to get the ordinary wheel replaced or repaired. Replace the spare wheel as soon as possible with a normal wheel. The car’s handling may be altered by the use of the spare wheel. Never drive faster than 80 km/h with a spare wheel on the car. By law, it is only legal to use the spare wheel/ tyre temporarily in connection with damage to a tyre. A wheel/tyre of this type should be replaced with a normal wheel/tyre as soon as possible. Remember also that this tyre combined with the normal tyres will affect driving character- istics. On four wheel drive vehicles excess speed may also damage the transmission.


1.


Certain variants and markets


Warning triangle (certain countries) Follow the warning triangle regulations of the country you are in. Use the warning triangle as follows:


– Detach the warning triangle case. It is


held in place with a Velcro strap.


– Remove the warning triangle from its


case (A).


– Fold out the four support legs on the


warning triangle.


– Fold out both red sides of the warning triangle. Place the warning triangle in a


152


Warning triangle and spare wheel


Wheels and tyres


1.Carsseatingseven 2.Carsseatingfive Spare wheel – removing The spare wheel1 is located under the car. Jack, tool kit and crank are under the floor hatch. The crank is in two parts. One part is in the tool kit and the other part is located under the toolkit. NOTE! There is a puller spanner in the tool kit to remove the hub cap2. The location of the jack depends on whether the car seats seven (1) or five (2). Proceed as follows to release the spare wheel:


1. 2.


Certain variants and markets. Certain wheel options.


– Lower the bottom of the tailgate. – Lift up the floor hatch in the cargo


compartment.


– Take the two parts of the crank and


assemble.


– Fit the crank in the winch. – Loosen the tyre by cranking anticlockwise


until you reach the stop.


– Release the wheel from the cable. – Rewind up the cable (clockwise). NOTE! The cable could damage the car if it hangs free while driving.


– Place the punctured tyre in the cargo compartment. The tool kit contains a plastic bag for the tyre.


NOTE! The spot under the car is only intended for the car’s original spare wheel. Do not place any other wheels there.


153


Wheels and tyres


Changing wheels Spare wheel – refitting It is best to have two people put the spare wheel back in place. One person to crank and the other to guide the wheel. – Crank out the cable and place its anchor


in the centre hole of the wheel.


– Slowly crank (clockwise) the cable in a


bit.


– Angle the wheel so that it comes in over


the exhaust system.


– Hold down the rear edge of the wheel


while cranking it in.


– Place the wheel above the rear axle,


against the floor.


Crank to the stop point. Check that the wheel is firmly secured.


WARNING!


Check that the right attachment points are being used. A production anchorage with pin is located between the jacking points. This is not strong enough to use to lift the car. If you are unsure about the location of the jacking points, contact your Volvo workshop. An incorrectly fitted jack could damage the door and body.


154


Thejackingpointsarecentredunderthe bottomofthedoors. Removing wheels Remember to set out the warning triangle if you must change a wheel in a trafficked area. There are two jacking points on each side of the car, centred under the bottom of the doors.


– Park the car on an even, firm surface with


no incline.


– Apply the parking brake and engage 1st gear (manual gearbox) or move the gear selector to P (automatic gearbox). Place chocks on either side of the wheels remaining on the ground - use stones or wooden blocks.


– Take out the jack, wheelbrace and crank,


see location page 153.


– Use the wheelbrace to loose the wheel


bolts ½-1 turn. Turn anticlockwise.


Changing wheels


WARNING!


Never crawl under the car when it is raised on a jack! The car could fall, causing injuries. The car’s original jack should only be used when changing wheels. All other work on the car should be done using workshop jacks and axle stands under the part of the car that is raised. The jack screw should be kept well lubri- cated. If the surface is too soft, the jack could slide to the side and the car could fall. No one should be in the car when the wheel is being changed.


Wheels and tyres


155


Wheels and tyres


Changing wheels


– Place the jack under the jacking point and


crank it up towards the car floor. Check that the jack sits securely in the anchorage. Then adjust the jack so that its foot is positioned vertically under the anchorage. See illustration. Do not place wood blocks or the like under the jack as you will not achieve full bearing capacity.


WARNING!


If the jack is positioned incorrectly, the car could fall. Risk of injury!


– Lift the car until the wheel is free.


156


– Remove the wheel bolts and lift off the


wheel.


Fitting the wheel – Clean the contract surfaces on the wheel


and hub.


– Fit the wheel. Screw the wheel nuts. – Lower the car so that the wheel cannot


rotate.


– Tighten the wheel bolts alternately and in


torque steps. Tightening torque: 140 Nm (14.0 kpm). It is important that they are tightened to the correct torque. Check with a torque wrench.


– Screw the jack all the way down before returning it to the cargo compartment. Then secure it in place.


– Check that the new tyre has the correct


amount of pressure.


NOTE! There are two different types of wheel bolts depending on whether or not your car has steel or aluminium rims; bolts used with aluminium rims have a loose, rotating ring. Bolts used with steel rims have no rotating ring. Make sure to use the correct type of bolt. If you are unsure, check with the nearest Volvo workshop.


Emergency puncture repair


Carsseatingfive General Cars which do not have a spare wheel are instead equipped with an emergency puncture repair kit. This kit can be used to both seal the puncture and to check and adjust the tyre pressure. The kit consists of an electric air compressor and an in tegrated canister with sealing liquid. NOTE! The jack is optional on cars equipped with the emergency puncture repair kit.


Carsseatingseven Emergency puncture repair kit The emergency puncture repair kit1 is only intended to work as a temporary repair so that the car can be driven a further 200 km (max.) or to the nearest tyre centre. The seal- ing fluid has the ability to effectively seal tyres which have punctures in the tread. The canister with the sealing fluid should be replaced before the best-before date has expired or after the emergency puncture repair kit has been used. The best-before date is located on the front of the compressor, see illustration on page 161.


1.


Certain variants and markets


Wheels and tyres


Re placement of emergency puncture repair kit, see page 161 for information on replacing the canister. NOTE! The emergency puncture repair kit is only intended for sealing tyres with a punc- ture in the tread. The emergency puncture repair kit has limited abilities to seal tyres which have punctures in the wall of the tyre. Do not seal tyres with the emergency puncture repair kit if they have larger slits, cracks or similar damage. The emergency puncture repair kit with com- pressor and tools are found under the floor in the cargo area. 12 V sockets for the compressor are located by the centre console in the front, by the rear seat and in the cargo area. Choose the elec- trical socket that is nearest the punctured tyre.


WARNING!


The sealing fluid may cause irritation if it comes into direct contact with skin. In the case of contact with skin, wash away the fluid with soap and water.


Taking out the emergency puncture repair kit – Fold the rear edge of the floor mat


forward.


– Lift up the emergency puncture repair kit. 157


Wheels and tyres


Emergency puncture repair


Inflating tyres Set up the warning triangle if a tyre must be inflated in an area close to traffic. – Ensure that the orange switch (2) is in


position 0 and take out the lead (5) and air hose (4) from the side compartment (3).


– Screw the air hose’s valve connection to the bottom of the thread on the tyre’s air valve.


– Connect the lead (5) to one of the car’s


12 V sockets.


– Start the engine. The car must be in a


well-ventilated place.


158


– Start the compressor by flicking the


switch (2) to position I.


– Pump up the tyre to the pressure


specified on the tyre pressure label.


– Turn off the compressor, the switch (2) should be in position 0. Detach the air hose and unplug the lead. Replace the valve’s dust cap.


– Put the lead (5) and air hose (4) into the


side compartment (3).


– Put the puncture repair kit back under the


floor in the cargo area.


– The compressor should not run for more


than ten minutes at a time. Let it cool afterwards as there is a risk of overheating.


– Objects with a volume of up to 50 litres can be pumped up with the compressor.


WARNING!


Inhaling car exhaust fumes can result in danger to life. Never leave the engine running in sealed areas or areas that lack sufficient ventilation.


Emergency puncture repair


Wheels and tyres


Sealing punctured tyres Set up the warning triangle if emergency tyre repairs must be carried out in an area where there is other traffic. – Remove the decal (1) regarding the


highest permitted speed from the emergency puncture repair kit and stick it on the steering wheel where it can be clearly seen by the driver.


– Ensure that the orange switch (2) is in


position 0 and take out the lead (5) and air hose (4) from the side compartment (3).


– Screw the air hose’s valve connection to the bottom of the thread on the tyre’s air valve.


– Connect the lead (5) to one of the car’s


– Start the compressor by flicking the


12 V sockets.


– Release the safety catch (6) and turn the orange-coloured part (7) 90 degrees to the vertical position, until a click is heard.


– Start the engine. The car must be in a


well-ventilated place.


WARNING!


Inhaling car exhaust fumes can result in danger to life. Never leave the engine running in sealed areas or areas that lack sufficient ventilation.


switch (2) to position I. The pressure may increase temporarily up to a maximum of 4 bar while the sealing liquid is being pumped in. After about one minute, the pressure will drop and the pressure gauge show a more correct tyre pressure.


– Pump the tyre to a pressure of between 1.8 bar and 3.5 bar. If the pressure does not reach 1.8 bar after ten minutes of pumping, the compressor should be turned off so it does not overheat.


– Undo the air hose (4) from the air valve


and put the dust cap back on. Unplug the lead (5) from the electrical socket. Fold the orange-coloured part (7) back into its


159


Wheels and tyres


Emergency puncture repair


WARNING!


Never stand next to the tyre when the compressor is running. Be particularly observant of the tyre walls. If cracks, irreg- ularities or other damage appears, turn off the compressor immediately. Under these circumstances your journey should not continue. Contact an authorised tyre centre.


original position and secure the catch (6). Keep the emergency repair kit in a safe place in the car.


– Immediately drive about 3 km, at a


maximum speed of 80 km/h, to allow the sealing fluid to seal the tyre well.


WARNING!


You should not drive faster than 80 km/h after the emergency tyre repair kit has been used. The temporarily sealed tyre must be changed as soon as possible (maximum driving distance: 200 km).


– Check the tyre pressure again: NOTE! Do not raise the orange-coloured part (7) when only the compressor is to be used for inflation.


160


– Connect the air hose (4) to the air valve


on the tyre.


– Connect the lead (5) to the 12 V power


point. Read the pressure on the compressor. If the tyre pressure is below 1.3 bar, the tyre has not been sufficiently well sealed. The journey should not be continued under these circumstances. Contact a tyre centre.


– If the tyre pressure is higher than 1.3 bar,


the tyre should be pumped up to the pressure stated on the tyre pressure label, see page 151 for its location. Release pressure with the reduction valve (8) if the tyre pressure is too high. – Turn off the compressor, the switch (2) should be in position 0. Detach the air hose and unplug the lead. Replace the valve’s dust cap.


– Put the lead (5) and air hose (4) into the


side compartment (3).


– Put the puncture repair kit back under the


floor in the cargo area.


The compressor should not run for more than ten minutes at a time. Let it cool afterwards as there is a risk of overheating. NOTE! The canister with sealant and hose should be replaced after use.


Emergency puncture repair


Wheels and tyres


Changing the sealing fluid canister The canister of sealing fluid should be changed before the best-before date has expired, see date label (1), or after the tyre has been sealed. After use, the canister (6) with holder (8) and air hose (10) should be changed.


IMPORTANT! Read the safety instructions on the bottom of the canister.


WARNING!


Ensure the compressor is not connected to the 12 V socket when the canister is changed.


Before the best-before date has expired – Undo the two screws (2) on the orange-


coloured case (3).


– Remove the speed label (4) and date


label (1), and open the safety catch (5). Loosen the case (3) and take it off.


– Unscrew and remove the canister (6). – Check that the seal (7) on the new canister is not damaged. Screw the canister into place.


– Refit the case (3). Check that the case is


correctly fitted. Screw it on with the screws (2).


– Affix the speed label (4) and new date


label (1) to the tyre repair kit.


Treat the removed canister as hazardous waste. Changing the canister and hose after use – Undo the two screws (2) on the orange-


coloured case (3).


– Remove the speed label (4) and date


label (1), and open the safety catch (5). Loosen the case (3) and take it off.


161


Wheels and tyres


Emergency puncture repair – Push down the button (8) while turning


the canister (6) and the holder (9) clockwise. Remove them. – Pull out the air hose (10). – Wipe off remaining sealing fluid with a rag or scrape it away if it is has already dried.


– Fit a new air hose (10). Check that it is


fitted correctly.


– Check that the seal (7) on the new canister is not damaged. Screw the holder (9) onto the canister (6) and turn it anticlockwise until a click is heard.


– Refit the case (3). Check that the case is


correctly fitted. Screw it on with the screws (2).


– Affix the speed label (4) and new date


label (1) to the tyre repair kit.


The empty canister and air hose can be treated as normal waste.


162


Cleaning Touching up paintwork Rustproofing


Car care 164
166
168


163


Car care


Cleaning Washing the car Wash the car as soon as it becomes dirty. Use car shampoo. Dirt and road salt can lead to corrosion. (cid:127) Do not park the car in direct sunshine. Washing a car with hot paintwork can cause permanent paintwork damage. Wash the car in a car wash with waste water separator.


(cid:127) Thoroughly rinse dirt off the underbody of


the car.


(cid:127) Rinse the entire car to remove loose dirt.


When using a pressure washer: Make sure that the nozzle of the pressure washer is not closer than 30 cm to the bodywork. Do not spray directly at the locks.


(cid:127) Wash using a sponge, car shampoo and


(cid:127)


plenty of lukewarm water. If the dirt is difficult to dislodge, wash the car using a cold degreasing agent.


(cid:127) Dry the car using a clean, soft chamois or


a water scraper.


(cid:127) Clean the wiper blades with a lukewarm


soap solution or car shampoo.


164


Removing bird droppings Wash bird droppings off the paintwork as soon as possible. Bird droppings contain chemicals that affect and discolour paintwork very quickly. This discolouration can only be removed by a specialist.


WARNING!


Always test the brakes after washing the car to ensure that moisture and corrosion do not attack the brake pads and reduce braking performance.


Press the brake pedal lightly from time to time if driving for long periods in rain or slush. This heats and dries the brake pads. You should also do this when you begin driving in extremely damp or cold weather. Exterior plastic parts A special cleaning agent, available from Volvo dealers, is recommended for cleaning exterior plastic parts. Never use strong stain removers.


WARNING!


Always have the engine cleaned by a workshop. There is a risk of fire if the engine is hot.


Automatic car washes An automatic car wash is a simple and quick way of washing the car. Bear in mind, however, that an automatic car wash can never replace a proper handwashing – the brushes of a car wash cannot reach everywhere.


IMPORTANT! Washing by hand is gentler to the paintwork than an automatic car wash. The paintwork is also more sensitive when it is new. For this reason, handwashing is recommended during the first few months with a new car.


Cleaning Cleaning the interior Treating spots on fabric upholstery A special cleaning agent, available from Volvo dealers, is recommended for cleaning the fabric upholstery. Other chemicals can impair the fire retardant qualities of the upholstery.


IMPORTANT! Sharp objects and Velcro may damage the fabric upholstery.


Treating spots on leather upholstery A special cleaning agent, available from Volvo dealers, is recommended when cleaning leather upholstery. Treat the leather uphol- stery once or twice a year using Volvo’s leather care kit. Never use strong solvents. Such products may damage fabric, vinyl and leather upholstery. Treating spots on interior plastic parts and surfaces A special cleaning agent, available from Volvo dealers, is recommended for cleaning interior plastic parts and surfaces. Do not scrape or rub spots. Never use strong stain removers. Cleaning seatbelts Use water and a synthetic detergent. A special textile cleaning agent is available from


you Volvo dealer. Make sure the seatbelt is dry before allowing it to retract. Polishing and waxing Polish and wax the car when you feel the paintwork is matte and when you wish to give the paintwork extra protection, such as before winter. The car does not usually need polishing until after one year. It can be waxed earlier. Wash and dry the car thoroughly before you begin polishing and/or waxing. Clean off asphalt and tar stains with white spirit. More stubborn marks can be removed with fine rubbing paste designed for paintwork. Polish first with a polish and then wax with liquid or solid wax. Carefully follow the instructions on the package. Many preparations contain both polish and wax. Do not polish or wax surfaces warmer than 45 °C. Cleaning door mirrors and front door windows with water- repellent coating (option) Never use products such as car wax, degreaser or the like on mirror/ glass surfaces as this could ruin their water- repelling properties.


Car care


Take care when cleaning so as not to damage the glass surface. To avoid damaging glass surfaces when removing ice, only use plastic ice scrapers. There is natural wear of the water-repellent coating. NOTE! Treatment with a special finishing agent available from Volvo dealers is recom- mended in order to maintain the water- repellent properties. This should be used first after three years and then each year.


165


Car care


Touching up paintwork Paintwork Paint is an important part of the car’s rustproofing and should therefore be checked regularly. Repair paintwork damage immediately so that it does not start to rust. The most common types of paintwork damage that you can repair yourself are: (cid:127) minor stone chips and scratches (cid:127) damage to wing edges and door When repairing paintwork, the car should be clean and dry with a temperature above 15 °C. Colour code Make sure you have the right colour. The colour code number is on the data plate in the engine compartment.


166


Variant1


Variant 2


Only China


Removeanypaintresiduewithtape.Maskif necessary. Minor stone chips and scratches Material: (cid:127) Primer in a can (cid:127) Paint in a can or a touch-up pen (cid:127) Brush (cid:127) Masking tape (cid:127)


If the stone chip has not gone down to the bare metal and an unpainted colour coat remains, you can add paint immedi- ately after removing dirt.


Touching up paintwork Do as follows if the stone chip went down to the bare metal: (cid:127) Fasten a piece of masking tape over the damaged surface. Then remove the tape, removing any paint residue (illustration 1). (cid:127) Stir the primer thoroughly and apply using a fine brush or matchstick (illustration 2). (cid:127) When the primer is dry, apply the surface


coat with a brush.


(cid:127) Make sure the paint is well stirred and


apply several thin coats; allowing it to dry between coats.


(cid:127) The procedure is the same for scratches, but masking tape can be used to protect undamaged paintwork (illustration 3).


(cid:127) Wait a day or so and then finish the repair


by polishing. Use a soft rag and apply lapping paste sparingly.


Car care


167


Car care


Rustproofing Rustproofing – check and repair Your car received a thorough and complete rustproofing at the factory. Parts of the body are made of galvanised sheet metal. The underbody is protected by a wear-resistant anti-corrosion compound. Members, cavities and enclosed sections are sprayed with a thin, penetrating rust inhibitor. The car’s rustproofing is maintained by doing the following: (cid:127) Keep the car clean! Hose down the


underbody. When high pressure washing, hold the nozzle at least 30 cm from painted surfaces!


(cid:127) Check and repair the rustproofing


regularly.


The car’s rustproofing does not normally require treatment for approximately 8 years. After that time, it should be treated at three year intervals. If your car requires treatment, consult your Volvo workshop. Repair If you want to repair the rustproofing yourself, make sure the area is clean and dry. Hose down, wash and dry the car thoroughly. Use a rustproofing agent in a spray can or one that is intended for brush application.


168


There are two different types of rustproofing agents: (cid:127) (cid:127)


thin (colourless), for visible areas thick, for areas prone to wear on the underbody


Possible repair areas with these agents: (cid:127) Visible welds and sheet metal joints; thin


fluid


(cid:127) Underbody; thick fluid (cid:127) Door hinges; thin fluid (cid:127) Bonnet hinges and catch - thin fluid. Once you have finished treatment, excess rustproofing can be wiped off with a rag dipped in a recommended cleaning agent. Parts of the engine and suspension strut mountings in the engine compartment are treated at the factory with a wax-based, colourless rustproofing. This withstands normal detergents without dissolving and losing its rustproofing ability. If you wash the engine using aromatic solvents, such as turpentine or white spirit (especially those that do not contain emulsi- fiers), the protective wax should be renewed after washing. Your Volvo dealer handles such waxes.


Volvo service Self-maintenance Bonnet and engine compartment Diesel Oils and fluids Wiper blades Battery Replacing bulbs Fuses


Maintenance and service 170
171
172
173
174
178
179
182
190


169


collision. Volvo Car Corporation will not disclose the stored information without consent. However, Volvo Car Corporation may be forced to disclose the information due to national legislation. Volvo Car Corporation and its workshops may also read and use the information.


Maintenance and service


Volvo service Volvo service programme Before the car left the factory, it was thoroughly test driven. It was checked again in accordance with Volvo Car Corporation regulations before it was handed over to you. To keep your Volvo as safe and reliable as possible, follow the Volvo service programme specified in the Service and Warranty Booklet. Have an authorised Volvo workshop carry out service and maintenance work. Volvo workshops have the personnel, special tools and service literature to guarantee the highest quality of service.


IMPORTANT! For the Volvo warranty to apply, check and follow the instructions in the Service and Warranty Booklet.


Special service measures Certain service measures, which affect the car’s electrical system, can only be performed using electronic equipment specially developed for your car. Always contact an authorised Volvo workshop before beginning or performing service work that affects the electrical system.


170


Installing accessories The incorrect connection and installation of accessories can negatively affect the car’s electrical system. Certain accessories only function when the appropriate software has been programmed into the car’s electrical system. Always contact an authorised Volvo workshop before installing accessories which are connected to or affect the electrical system. Recording vehicle data One or more of the computers in your Volvo are capable of recording detailed information. This information is intended for use in research to enhance safety and for diagnosing faults in some of the in-car systems. The data may include details regarding seatbelt use by the driver and passengers, the functions of various vehicle systems and modules, and status information about the engine, throttle, steering, brakes and other systems. This data can also include details of the way the car is driven. This type of information can include, without being limited to, specific details such as vehicle speed, the use of the brake and accelerator pedals and steering wheel position. This latter type of data can be stored for a limited period while the car is being driven and subsequently during a collision or a near-


Self-maintenance Before starting work on the car Battery Check that the battery cables are correctly connected and tightened. Never disconnect the battery when the engine is running (e.g. if replacing the battery). Never use a quick charger to charge the battery. The battery cables must be discon- nected when charging the battery. The battery contains acid that is both corrosive and toxic. Handle the battery in an environmentally-suitable way. Let your Volvo dealer assist you.


WARNING!


High voltage output from the ignition system. The voltage in the ignition system is dangerous. The ignition must therefore always be switched off for work in the engine compartment. Do not touch the spark plugs or ignition coils when the ignition is on or the engine is hot.


Check regularly Check the following at regular intervals, for example, when refuelling: (cid:127) Coolant - The level must be between the


MIN and MAX marks on the expansion tank.


(cid:127) Engine oil - The level must be between


the MIN and MAX marks.


(cid:127) Power steering fluid - The level must be


between the MIN and MAX marks.


(cid:127) Washer fluid - The reservoir should be


well filled. Use washer antifreeze at temperatures around freezing.


(cid:127) Brake and clutch fluid - The level must be


between the MIN and MAX marks.


WARNING!


Bear in mind that the radiator fan may start automatically some time after the engine has been switched off. Always have the engine cleaned by a workshop. There is a risk of fire if the engine is hot.


Maintenance and service


Lifting the car If the car is lifted with a workshop jack; position the jack with the front edge on the subframe. Do not damage the splashguard under the engine. Ensure that the jack is positioned so that the car cannot slide off. Always use axle stands or the like. If you lift the car using a two pillar workshop lift, ensure that the front and rear lift arms are fixed under the lifting points on the door sill. See the illustration.


171


Maintenance and service


Bonnet and engine compartment


10


11


Opening the bonnet – Pull the handle on the far left (or right if


the car is RHD) under the dashboard. You will hear when the lock releases.


– Insert your hand to the right under the


front edge of the bonnet (below the grille).


– Press up the safety catch handle. – Release the handle and open the bonnet.


Engine compartment The appearance of the engine compartment may vary slightly due to engine variant. However, the components listed are in the same positions. 1. Clutch and brake fluid reservoir 2. Relay and fuses 3. Air filter. (The cover has a different


design depending on engine variant.)


10. Chassis data plate 11. Battery (in cargo compartment)


WARNING!


Check that the bonnet locks properly when you close it!


4. Radiator 5. Engine oil dipstick 6. Engine oil filling 7. Washer fluid reservoir 8. Power steering fluid reservoir 9. Expansion tank, cooling system


172


Diesel Fuel system Diesel engines are sensitive to contaminants. O nly use diesel fuel from a well-known oil company that fulfils the requirements for recommended fuel grade as described on page 244. Never use diesel of dubious quality. Special diesel fuel designed for outside temperatures around freezing point is available from the major oil companies. This fuel is less viscous at low temperatures and reduces the risk of wax building up in the fuel system. The risk of condensation building up in the tank is reduced if the tank is kept well filled. Make sure that the area around the filler pipe is clean when refuelling. Avoid spilling onto the paintwork. Wash off any spills with detergent and water. Empty tank No special procedures are required if the tank is run dry. The fuel system is bled automatically if the ignition switch is kept in position II for approx. 60 seconds before the start attempt.


IMPORTANT! Diesel type fuels which must not be used: special additives, Marine Diesel Fuel, fuel oil, RME (Rape Methyl Ester), vegetable oil. These fuels do not fulfil the requirements in accordance with Volvo recommenda- tions and generate increased wear and engine damage that is not covered by the Volvo warranty.


Draining condensation from the fuel filter The fuel filter separates condensation from the fuel. Condensation can disrupt engine operation. The fuel filter must be drained at the intervals specified in the Service and Warranty Booklet or if you suspect that the car has been filled with contaminated fuel.


Maintenance and service


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Maintenance and service


Oils and fluids


Enginecompartmentdecalforoilgrade


IMPORTANT! Always use oil of the prescribed grade, see the engine compartment decal. Check the oil level frequently and change the oil regularly. The engine will be damaged if lower grade oil is used or if the car is driven with the oil level too low.


Volvo recommends oil products. Using oil of a higher than specified grade is permitted. Volvo recommends using an oil of a higher grade than that specified on the


174


decal for adverse driving conditions. See page 239. Adverse driving conditions Check the oil level more frequently for long journeys: (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) at high speeds. (cid:127)


towing a caravan or trailer. in mountainous regions.


in temperatures colder than –30 °C or hotter than +40 °C.


(cid:127) shorter driving distances (shorter than


10 km) at low temperatures (under 5 °C). This may result in abnormally high oil temper- ature or oil consumption.


Checking and changing the engine oil and oil filter Change the oil and oil filter in accordance with the intervals specified in the Service and Warranty Booklet.


IMPORTANT! When filling oil to top up a low oil level, the oil being filled must be of the same grade and viscosity as the oil in the engine.


Checking the oil level in a new car is especially important before the first scheduled oil change. The Service and Warranty Booklet specifies the odometer readings for oil changes. Volvo recommends checking the oil level every 2500 km. The most accurate measure- ments are made on a cold engine before starting. The measurement will be inaccurate if taken immediately after the engine is switched off. The dipstick will indicate that the level is too low because the oil has not had time to flow down into the oil sump.


Oils and fluids


Maintenance and service


– Wipe the dipstick clean before checking


the level.


– Check the oil level using the dipstick. The


oil level must be between the MIN and MAX marks.


– If the level is close to the MIN mark, start by topping up with 0.5 litres of oil. Top up until the oil level is nearer the MAX than the MIN mark on the dipstick. See page 240 for capacities.


IMPORTANT! Never fill above the MAX mark. Oil consumption may increase if too much oil is poured into the engine.


WARNING!


Do not spill oil onto the hot exhaust manifold due to the risk of fire.


Theoillevelmustbewithintheareamarked onthedipstick Checking the oil in a cold engine: – Wipe the dipstick clean before checking


the level.


– Check the oil level using the dipstick. The


oil level must be between the MIN and MAX marks.


– If the level is close to the MIN mark, start by topping up with 0.5 litres of oil. Top up until the oil level is nearer the MAX than the MIN mark on the dipstick. See page 240 for capacities.


Checking the oil in a warm engine: – Park the car on a level surface, switch off


the engine and wait 10 – 15 minutes to allow the oil time to run back to the sump.


175


Maintenance and service


Oils and fluids


damage (cracks) to the cylin der head. Top up the coolant when the level falls to the MIN mark. NOTE! The engine must only be run with a well-filled cooling system. High temperatures can occur, causing a risk of damage (cracks) to the cylinder head.


IMPORTANT! Always use coolant with anti-corrosion agent as recommended by Volvo. New cars are filled with coolant that can withstand temperatures down to approximately –35 °C.


WARNING!


The coolant may be very hot. If the coolant requires topping up when the engine is at operating temperature, unscrew the expansion tank cap slowly to gently release the overpressure.


IMPORTANT! The engine must only be run with a well- filled cooling system. High temperatures can occur, causing a risk of damage (cracks) to the cylinder head.


Washer fluid reservoir The windscreen and headlamp washers have the same reservoir. See capacities and recommended grade for fluids and oils on page 242. Add frost protection in the winter so that the fluid does not freeze in the pump, reservoir and hoses. Tip: clean the wiper blades when topping up washer fluid.


Checking and topping up the coolant When topping up the coolant, follow the instructions on the packaging. It is important that the mixture of coolant concentrate and water is correct for the prevailing weather conditions. Never top up with water only. The risk of freezing increases with both too little and too much coolant concentrate. See capacities on page 242. Check the coolant regularly The level should lie between the MIN and MAX marks on the expansion tank. If the system is not filled sufficiently, high local temperatures could occur, causing a risk of


176


Oils and fluids


Maintenance and service


NOTE! The fluid should be changed annually for cars driven in conditions requiring hard, frequent braking, such as driving in mountains or tropical climates with high humidity.


WARNING!


If the brake fluid is under the MIN level in the brake fluid reservoir, do not drive further before topping up the brake fluid. The reason for the loss of brake fluid must be investigated.


Checking and topping up the brake and clutch fluid The brake and clutch fluid have a common reservoir1. The fluid level must be between the MIN and MAX marks. Check the level regularly. Change the brake fluid every other year or at every other regular service. See the capacities and recommended brake fluid grade on page 242.


1.


Location dependent on whether car is left or right-hand drive.


Checking and topping up the power steering fluid Check the level at every service. It is not necessary to change the fluid. The level should lie between the ADD and FULL marks. See the capacities and recommended grade on page 242. NOTE! If a fault should arise in the power steering system or if the car is without power and must be towed, it can still be steered. However the steering will be much heavier than normal and it will require more effort to turn the wheel.


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– Press the entire wiper blade down so that


the wiper arm eye passes through the hold in the wiper blade mounting.


– Then pull the blade up so that the wiper arm eye passes beside the wiper blade mounting. Fit the new blade in reverse order and check that it is securely in place.


NOTE! Keep in mind that the wiper blade on the driver’s side is straight and has a spoiler while the one on the passenger side is curved. The spoiler on the driver’s side should sit on the lower side of the blade. The curve of the blade should follow the curve of the bottom edge of the windscreen.


Replacing rear window wiper blades – Fold out the wiper arm. – Remove the wiper blade by pulling it


outwards towards the tailgate.


– Press the new wiper blade into position.


Check that the blade fits securely!


Maintenance and service


Wiper blades


Changing the wiper blades – Fold out the wiper arm and hold the wiper blade at 45° to the wiper arm. Press in the spring on the wiper blade.


178


Battery


Battery care The function and life of the battery is affected by number of starts, number of times discharged, driving style, driving conditions, climate conditions, etc. Repeated use of the parking heater and similar large power consumers combined with short driving distances could lead to a discharged battery and thereby problems starting. For the battery to function satisfactorily, consider the following: (cid:127) Regularly check that the battery fluid level


is correct (A).


(cid:127) Check all cells. Use a screwdriver to


remove the caps. Each cell has its own maximum level mark. If necessary, top up with distilled water to the battery’s maximum mark.


(cid:127)


(cid:127) Never fill above the maximum mark (A).


IMPORTANT! Always use distilled or deionised water (battery water).


– Tighten the caps properly. NOTE! The life of the battery is shortened if it becomes discharged repeatedly. Symbols on the battery These symbols displayed on the battery. Use protective goggles.


Further information in the owner’s manual.


Maintenance and service


Store the battery out of the reach of children.


The battery contains corrosive acid.


Avoid sparks and naked flames.


Risk of explosion.


179


Maintenance and service


Battery


Draining oxyhydrogen gas The battery can develop oxyhydrogen, which is highly explosive. An evacuation hose draws any oxyhydrogen gas from around the battery out of the car and prevents gas from accumu- lating in the passenger and cargo compart- ments. If you must change the battery for some reason, it is imperative that the evacu- ation hose is connected to the new battery and that it is routed to the outlet in the bodywork.


Changing the battery Do as follows once you have unscrewed the console and battery cover and wish to remove the battery: – Check that the ignition is switched off. – Wait at least 5 minutes before touching any electrical terminals (so that the infor- mation in the car’s electrical system can be stored in the different control modules).


– Disconnect the negative lead first. – Then disconnect the positive lead and the


evacuation hose for the oxyhydrogen.


Do as follows when installing the battery: – Set the battery in place. – Connect the positive lead first. – Then connect the negative lead. – Make sure the evacuation hose is


correctly connected to both the battery and the outlet in the bodywork.


180


Battery


WARNING!


The battery contains oxyhydrogen, which is highly explosive. Be sure that the evacu- ation hose is correctly connected!


WARNING!


Batteries can generate oxyhydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. A spark, which can be generated if you connect the jump leads incorrectly, is sufficient to make the battery explode. The battery also contains sulphuric acid, which can cause serious burns. If the acid comes into contact with eyes, skin or clothing, flush with large quantities of water. If acid splashes into the eyes, seek medical advice immedi- ately.


Maintenance and service


181


Maintenance and service


Replacing bulbs General All bulb specifications are given on page 247. The following list contains bulbs and point- source lamps that are specialised or unsuitable for changing except at a workshop: (cid:127) General interior lighting in the roof (cid:127) Roof lighting (cid:127) Reading lamp (cid:127) Glovebox lighting (cid:127) Lamps, Bi-Xenon headlamps.


IMPORTANT! Never touch the bulbs’ glass with your fingers. Grease and oils from your fingers are vaporised by the heat, coating and damaging the reflector.


WARNING!


On cars with Bi-Xenon headlamps, all work on the lights should be carried out at an authorised Volvo workshop. Bi-Xenon headlamps must be handled with extreme care due to the high-voltage unit.


182


Replacing bulbs


Maintenance and service


– Unplug the connector by first pressing in


the catch from underneath and then pulling it up a bit from above.


– Lift out the entire headlamp insert and place it on a soft surface so as not to damage the lens.


Refit the headlamp insert in reverse order. Check that the lock pins are correctly situated.


Location of bulbs in front lamp 1. Dipped beam 2. Main beam 3. Direction indicator 4. Parking lamp 5. Side marker lamps


Dipped beam, main beam, direction indicator, parking lamp and side marker light The entire lamp insert must first be removed when replacing dipped beam, main beam and parking lamp bulbs. To replace one of these bulbs, do the following and then consult the instructions for the specific lamp. – Switch off all lights and turn ignition key


to position 0.


– Open the bonnet. – Release the insert by pulling up the two


lock pins holding it in place.


– Lift the insert straight out.


183


Maintenance and service


Replacing bulbs


Dipped beam lamp – Undo the outer cover by turning it


anticlockwise.


Main beam lamp – Undo the outer cover by pulling it straight


out.


– Unplug the connector. – Disconnect the spring clamp. First push


– Unplug the connector. – Disconnect the spring clamp. First push


to the right so that the spring clamp disconnects, then out and down.


to the right so that the spring clamp disconnects, then out and down.


– Pull out the bulb. – Fit the new bulb. It can only be fitted in


– Pull out the bulb. – Fit the new bulb. It can only be fitted in


one position.


one position.


– Press the spring clamp up and a little to


– Press the spring clamp up and a little to


Side marker lamps and position/ parking lamps The bulbs are housed in bayonet holders. – Turn the bulb holder anticlockwise and


remove.


– Pull the bulb straight out. – Fit the new bulb by carefully pressing it


into the recess.


– Fit the bulb holder back in place and turn


clockwise.


the left so that it fastens in its catch. – Press the connector back in place. – Screw the cover back into place; the marking "HAUT" should be at the top.


184


the left so that it fastens in its catch. – Press the connector back in place. – Refit the cover.


Replacing bulbs


Maintenance and service


Direction indicators The bulbs are housed in bayonet holders. – Turn the bulb holder anticlockwise and


remove.


– Press in the bulb, turn anticlockwise and


remove.


– Fit the new bulb by pressing it into the


recess and then turning clockwise.


Side indicator lamp – Switch off all lights and turn ignition key


Fog lamps – Switch off all lights and turn ignition key


to position 0.


– Prise out the lamp housing from under- neath using a small slotted screwdriver.


– Turn the bulb holder ¼turn anticlockwise


and pull straight out.


– Pull the defective bulb straight out. – Replace with a new bulb and press the


lamp straight in.


to position 0.


– Turn the bulb holder slightly


anticlockwise.


– Remove the lamp. – Put the new bulb in place. The profile of the bulb holder matches the one on the foot of the lamp.


– Refit the bulb holder by turning slightly


clockwise. "TOP" should be up!


185


Maintenance and service


Replacing bulbs


Location of bulbs in rear lamp cluster 1. Direction indicator 2. Brake light 3. Reversing lamp 4. Position lamps NOTE! If the error message "BULB FAILURE"/"CHECK BRAKE LIGHT" remains after a faulty bulb has been replaced then an authorised Volvo workshop needs to be consulted to rectify the fault.


186


C


Replacing bulbs


Bulbs in rear lamp cluster – Switch off all lights and turn the ignition


key to position 0.


– Lower the bottom of the tailgate and open


the floor hatch.


– If the car is equipped with a grocery bag


holder (option), loosen the holder’s retaining straps.


– Remove the corner piece (A). – Open the hatch (B) in the side panel by


pulling the catch (C) up and towards you.


– Take spanner no. 10 out of the tool kit. – Loosen the nuts (D). – Pull the entire insert straight back.


– Loosen the extra length of cable for better


accessibility.


– Place the insert on a soft surface so as


not to scratch the glass.


– Turn the bulb holder anticlockwise and


pull it out.


– Turn the bulb anticlockwise to loosen it. – Replace the bulb. – Refit the bulb holder in the recess and


turn clockwise.


– Press back the extra length of cable. – Refit the insert against the bolt holes.


Press the insert into place.


– Tighten the nuts. – Refit the side panel and corner piece.


Maintenance and service


187


Maintenance and service


Replacing bulbs


Rear fog lamp – Insert a slotted screwdriver as indicated


by the arrow in the illustration.


– Prise out the lamp insert. – Turn the lamp insert anticlockwise and


pull out the bulb. – Replace the bulb.


Number plate lighting NOTE! Applies to vehicles manufactured before week 9, 2006. – Switch off all lights and turn the ignition


key to position 0.


Number plate lighting NOTE! Applies to vehicles manufactured from and including week 9, 2006. – Switch off all lights and turn the ignition


key to position 0.


– Remove the screw with a screwdriver. – Carefully detach the entire lamp housing


– Remove the screws with a screwdriver. – Loosen the whole lamp housing carefully


and withdraw it. Turn the connector anticlockwise and pull out the bulb.


– Replace the bulb. – Refit the contact and turn clockwise. – Refit the entire lamp housing and screw it


into place.


and pull it out.


– Replace the bulb. – Refit the entire lamp housing and screw it


into place.


188


Replacing bulbs


Maintenance and service


Courtesy lighting Courtesy lighting is found under the dashboard on the driver and passenger sides. Do as follows to replace the bulb: – Insert a screwdriver and gently turn so


that the lamp housing comes loose.


– Remove the blown bulb. – Replace the bulb. Check that the bulb


lights.


– Refit the lamp housing.


Bulbs in the cargo compartment – Insert a screwdriver and gently turn so


that the lamp housing comes loose.


– Remove the blown bulb. – Replace the bulb. Check that the bulb


lights.


– Refit the lamp housing.


Vanity mirror – Insert a slotted screwdriver at the side of the centre clip in the bottom edge of the mirror. Lift up so the centre clip releases. – Slide the screwdriver from side to side so


that the outer clips release.


– Lift out the mirror insert. – Replace the bulbs. – Refit the insert top edge first. Be sure that


the upper clips are properly depressed before pressing the insert back.


189


Maintenance and service


Fuses


Cableroutingmayvaryslightlyduetoenginevariant.However,thecomponentslistedareinthesamepositions. All electrical functions and components are protected with a number of fuses to protect your car’s electrical system from damage by short-circuits or overloads. Fuses are housed in four different locations in the car: 1. Relay/fuse box in the engine


If an electrical component or function does not work, this may be because the component’s fuse was temporarily overloaded and blew. – Look in the fuse diagram to locate the


– Pull out the fuse and check from the side


fuse.


If the same fuse blows repeatedly, there is a fault in the component and you should contact an authorised Volvo workshop to have it checked.


compartment.


2. Fuse box in the passenger compartment


to see whether the curved wire has

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