2007 Saturn VUE Owners Manual

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your direction, just ease off the brakes and steer to keep the front of the vehicle pointing straight downhill. 257 Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider: {CAUTION: Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead. (cid:129) A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover. (cid:129) Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over. (cid:129) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more. For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. 258 Q: What if I am driving across an incline that is not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do? A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it. Stalling on an Incline {CAUTION: Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path. If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over. 259 Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer braking distances. It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud —the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not get stuck. When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control. {CAUTION: Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only. 260 Driving in Water {CAUTION: Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water. Heavy rain can mean ﬂash ﬂooding, and ﬂood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get through. Also, water that deep can damage the axle and other vehicle parts. If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. And, as long as the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When you go through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 264 for more information on driving through water. 261 After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a ﬁre hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information. Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving. (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you. (cid:129) Since you cannot see as well, slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. (cid:129) Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest. 262 (cid:129) (cid:129) No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They might cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare, as from a driver who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps, slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep the windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a ﬁlm caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and ﬂash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that the headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as the headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it. 263 And, if your tires do not have much tread left, you will get even less traction. It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reﬂexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It is wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir ﬁlled with washer ﬂuid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts. Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you cannot stop, accelerate, or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads. 264 {CAUTION: Wet brakes can cause accidents. They may not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply the brake pedal lightly until the brakes work normally. Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before you hit them. Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reﬂections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. 265 CAUTION: (Continued) If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through ﬂowing water. Some Other Rainy Weather Tips (cid:129) Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. (cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires on page 366. If you drive too quickly through Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through the engine’s air intake and badly damage the engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly. Driving Through Flowing Water {CAUTION: Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through ﬂowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of ﬂowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. CAUTION: (Continued) 266 City Driving One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: (cid:129) Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. (cid:129) Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 268. (cid:129) Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light. 267 Freeway Driving Mile for mile, freeways — also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. 268 The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic ﬂow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the ﬂow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic ﬂow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your blind spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that ﬁrst part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will ﬁnd experienced and able service experts at dealers/retailers all across the United States and Canada. They are ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? (cid:129) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? (cid:129) Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? (cid:129) Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inﬂated to the recommended pressure? (cid:129) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? (cid:129) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps? 269 (cid:129) Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as highway hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: (cid:129) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. 270 If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency. Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in ﬂat or rolling terrain. (cid:129) If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (cid:129) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all ﬂuid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system, and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. {CAUTION: If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope. {CAUTION: Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill. (cid:129) Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill. (cid:129) Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better. 271 Winter Driving (cid:129) Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. (cid:129) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. (cid:129) You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action. Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:129) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:129) You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 366. 272 Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer ﬂuid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a ﬂashlight, a red cloth, and reﬂective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very careful. What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. 273 If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: (cid:129) Turn on your hazard ﬂashers. (cid:129) Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow. (cid:129) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, ﬂoor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 235. (cid:129) Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. (cid:129) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ﬁne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers. 274 You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful. {CAUTION: Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out. Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. 275 You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution. {CAUTION: If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment ﬁre or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer. Notice: Spinning the wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting the transaxle back and forth, you can destroy the transaxle. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 277. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 384. 276 Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around the front wheels. If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn the system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 238. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a manual transaxle, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it may need to be towed out. Or, you can use the recovery hook if your vehicle has one. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 284. Recovery Hook {CAUTION: The recovery hook, when used, is under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hook at a sideways angle. The hook could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back. Notice: Never use the recovery hook to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. Contact your dealer/retailer if you would like to have a recovery hook installed on your vehicle. 277 The recovery hook is located at the rear of your vehicle. It can only be used for pulling the vehicle out if it is stuck, not for towing the vehicle. 278 Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certiﬁcation/Tire label. {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. Tire and Loading Information Label Example Label A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will ﬁnd the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. 279 The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inﬂation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inﬂation see Tires on page 366 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 374. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certiﬁcation/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certiﬁcation/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle. 3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs. 4. The resulting ﬁgure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be ﬁve 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 290 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips. 280 Example 1 Example 2 Item Description Total Item Description Total Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 300 lbs (136 kg) 700 lbs (317 kg) Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 750 lbs (340 kg) 250 lbs (113 kg) 281 Certiﬁcation/Tire Label Example 3 Item Description Total Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 1,000 lbs (453 kg) 0 lbs (0 kg) Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight. 282 A vehicle speciﬁc Certiﬁcation/Tire label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo, and trailer tongue weight, if your vehicle is pulling a trailer. The Certiﬁcation/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To ﬁnd out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your retailer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. Similar looking vehicles may have different GVWRs and payloads. Please consult your vehicle’s Certiﬁcation/Tire label or your retailer for additional details. {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your vehicle’s weight ratings. Ask your retailer to help you load your vehicle correctly if you are using these components. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. 283 Towing Towing Your Vehicle Consult your retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 445. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going. {CAUTION: Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. (cid:129) Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly. (cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. (cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. (cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. (cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to. 284 Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing” following in this section. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations. (cid:129) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. (cid:129) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 269. 285 (cid:129) Dinghy Towing Front-wheel-drive vehicles equipped with a manual transmission, four-speed automatic transmission or ﬁve-speed automatic transmission may be dinghy towed from the front. These vehicles may also be towed by putting the front wheels on a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” later in this section. All-wheel-drive vehicles with the ﬁve-speed automatic transmission can be dinghy towed from the front. You can also tow these vehicles by placing them on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground. These vehicles cannot be towed using a dolly. To tow your vehicle from the front with all four wheels on the ground, do the following: 1. Position and attach the vehicle to tow it behind the recreational vehicle. 2. Turn the ignition key to ACC. 3. Turn fog lamps and all accessories off. 4. If your vehicle has the manual transmission, shift your transmission to NEUTRAL and let the engine run for three minutes, then turn it off. If your vehicle has the ﬁve-speed automatic transmission, shift your transmission from DRIVE (D) to NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine run for three minutes. Then turn it off. Due to transmission ﬂuid drain back, the transmission lubrication procedure in Step 4 is required every seven hours after the initial procedure has been completed, regardless of the vehicle being towed or parked. Once the procedure is performed, the transmission is adequately lubricated and can be recreational vehicle towed for seven hours prior to repeating the lubrication procedure. 286 As an example, if you initially perform the lubrication procedure and tow your vehicle for three hours, then park for four hours, the lubrication procedure will need to be performed again, prior to dinghy towing the vehicle. Notice: Towing your vehicle after shifting the automatic transaxle (four-speed or ﬁve-speed) from anything other than DRIVE (D) to NEUTRAL (N) can cause internal damage to the automatic transaxle. Always shift the automatic transaxle (four-speed or ﬁve-speed) from DRIVE (D) to NEUTRAL (N) as the last shift before towing. 5. Locate and remove the large IGN fuse from the underhood fuse block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 411. If you tow your vehicle without Notice: performing each of the steps listed under “Dinghy Towing,” you could damage the automatic transmission. Be sure to follow all steps of the dinghy towing procedure prior to and after towing your vehicle. If your vehicle has a ﬁve-speed If your vehicle has a four-speed Notice: automatic transmission, it can be dinghy towed from the front for unlimited miles at 65 mph (105 km/h). If you exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle. Notice: automatic transmission and it is towed for more than seven hours without performing lubrication process or at speeds greater than 65 mph (105 km/h), you could damage the automatic transmission. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle for extended periods of time or at speeds greater than 65 mph (105 km/h). After seven hours, repeat Step 4 above for the ﬁve-speed automatic transmission. 287 Dolly Towing (All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles) All-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with two wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground or dinghy towed from the front. Dolly Towing (Front-Wheel-Drive Vehicles) Once you have reached your destination, do the following: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Shift the transmission to REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission. Shift the transmission to PARK (P) for an automatic transmission. 3. Turn the ignition key to LOCK and remove the key from the ignition. 4. Reinstall the large IGN fuse. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transmission. Be sure that the transaxle ﬂuid is at the proper level before towing with all four wheels on the ground. Notice: Don’t tow a vehicle with the front drive wheels on the ground if one of the front tires is a compact spare tire. Towing with two different tire sizes on the front of the vehicle can cause severe damage to the transmission. 288 Towing Your Vehicle From the Rear To tow your front-wheel-drive vehicle from the front with two wheels on the ground, do the following: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. If you have a ﬁve-speed automatic transmission or four-speed automatic transmission, move the shift lever to PARK (P). If you have a manual transmission, move the shift lever to SECOND (2). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing. 5. Release the parking brake. Notice: Towing your vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from the rear. Do not tow your vehicle from the rear. 289 Towing a Trailer {CAUTION: If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. 290 Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:129) There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. (cid:129) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later in this section. (cid:129) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the ﬁrst 500 miles (805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. (cid:129) Then, during the ﬁrst 500 miles (805 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. If you have an automatic transmission, you can use INTERMEDIATE (I) or as you need to, a lower gear which will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission. If you have a manual transmission, you should not use FIFTH (5) gear. Drive in FOURTH (4) gear or as you need to a lower gear. (cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts. (cid:129) Don’t tow a trailer when the outside temperature is above 100°F (38°C). Three important considerations have to do with weight: the weight of the trailer the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires 291 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 279 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. You can ask your retailer for trailering information or advice. 292 If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you’re using a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). 293 The trailer rating should be: You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs: You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). But let’s say your speciﬁc vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. 294 Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. You will ﬁnd these numbers on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 279. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR), including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:129) The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. (cid:129) Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 123. Dirt and water can, too. 295 Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, don’t try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes, so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. 296 Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer when towing a trailer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal ﬂasher and/or extra wiring. See your retailer if you need information. The arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also ﬂash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. 297 Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving on Grades Notice: Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal engine and transmission temperatures may result and damage your vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to allow the engine and transmission to cool. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating. If your engine does overheat, see Engine Overheating on page 334. Parking on Hills {CAUTION: You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or into gear for a manual transmission. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb. 2. Have someone place chocks behind the trailer wheels. 298 3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transmission or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission. 5. Release the regular brakes. When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you: start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake. 2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 420 for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission ﬂuid (don’t overﬁll), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you ﬁnd them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 334. Changing a Tire When Trailer Towing If you get a ﬂat tire while towing a trailer, be sure to secure the trailer and disconnect it from the vehicle before changing the tire. 299 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Trailer Wiring Additional wire length has been provided for connecting trailer wiring to your vehicle. A loop of ﬁve wires is stored below the jack, which is located on the driver’s side of the cargo area. The wires are fused in both the underhood and instrument fuse block. See Instrument Panel Fuse Block on page 410 and Underhood Fuse Block on page 411. The wires do not have a connector and should be wired to the trailer by a qualiﬁed electrical technician. The technician can use the following information when connecting a trailer wiring harness to your vehicle. (cid:129) Yellow: Left Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Parking Lamps Light Blue: Stop Lamps (cid:129) Black: Ground Wire (cid:129) Dark Green: Right Turn Signal When connecting a trailer harness, be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring does not bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store harness below jack in the cargo area when it is not in use. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it will not be damaged. 300 (cid:129) Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ........................................................ 304 Accessories and Modiﬁcations ................... 304 California Proposition 65 Warning .............. 305 Doing Your Own Service Work .................. 305 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle .......................................... 306 Fuel ............................................................. 306 Gasoline Octane ........................................ 306 Gasoline Speciﬁcations .............................. 306 California Fuel ........................................... 307 Additives ................................................... 307 Fuels in Foreign Countries ........................ 308 Filling the Tank ......................................... 309 Filling a Portable Fuel Container ............... 311 Checking Things Under the Hood .............. 312 Hood Release ........................................... 313 Engine Compartment Overview .................. 314 Engine Oil ................................................. 318 Engine Oil Life System .............................. 323 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ............................ 324 Automatic Transaxle Fluid (2.2L L4 Engine) .................................... 327 Automatic Transaxle Fluid (3.5L V6 Engine) .................................... 328 Manual Transaxle Fluid ............................. 330 Hydraulic Clutch ........................................ 331 Engine Coolant .......................................... 331 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ............ 334 Engine Overheating ................................... 334 Cooling System ......................................... 336 Windshield Washer Fluid ........................... 341 Brakes ...................................................... 343 Battery ...................................................... 347 Jump Starting ............................................ 348 All-Wheel Drive ........................................... 353 Headlamp Aiming ........................................ 355 Bulb Replacement ....................................... 358 Halogen Bulbs ........................................... 358 Headlamps ................................................ 358 Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps ....... 361 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) ... 362 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps ...................................... 363 License Plate Lamp ................................... 364 Replacement Bulbs ................................... 364 301 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ....... 364 Tires ............................................................ 366 Tire Sidewall Labeling ............................... 367 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions ............... 371 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure ............................. 374 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...................... 375 When It Is Time for New Tires .................. 377 Buying New Tires ...................................... 377 Different Size Tires and Wheels ................ 379 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 380 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 382 Wheel Replacement .................................. 382 Tire Chains ............................................... 384 If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 385 Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 386 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 387 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire ......................... 391 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...... 397 Compact Spare Tire .................................. 398 Appearance Care ........................................ 399 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 399 Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 400 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces ........................... 401 Care of Safety Belts .................................. 402 Weatherstrips ............................................ 402 Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 402 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 403 Finish Care ............................................... 403 Windshield and Wiper Blades .................... 404 Aluminum Wheels ...................................... 404 Tires ......................................................... 405 Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 405 Finish Damage .......................................... 405 Underbody Maintenance ............................ 406 Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 406 Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ............ 407 Vehicle Identiﬁcation .................................. 408 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) ........... 408 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label ............... 408 302 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Electrical System ........................................ 409 Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 409 Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 409 Power Windows and Other Power Options .................................................. 409 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....................... 409 Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..................... 410 Underhood Fuse Block .............................. 411 Capacities and Speciﬁcations .................... 414 303 Service Your Saturn retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your retailer for all your service needs. You will get genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your Saturn vehicle all Saturn. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks. Accessories and Modiﬁcations When you add non-Saturn accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. Saturn accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your Saturn retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine Saturn accessories. When you go to your Saturn retailer and ask for Saturn accessories, you will know that Saturn-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine Saturn accessories. 304 California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. Doing Your Own Service Work {CAUTION: You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 453. 305 Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). Saturn recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 307 for additional information. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 88. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 436. Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, Saturn recommends the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. 306 California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 175. If this occurs, return to your authorized Saturn retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. 307 Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your retailer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 308 Filling the Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. 309 To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. {CAUTION: Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 402. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 175. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to Notice: get the right type. Your dealer/ retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 175. 310 Filling a Portable Fuel Container CAUTION: (Continued) {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:129) Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:129) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while pumping gasoline. CAUTION: (Continued) 311 Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 312 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up on the secondary hood release lever. 3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it ﬁrmly. 313 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.2L L4 engine, you will see the following: 314 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 324. B. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 318. C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 318. D. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 348. E. Brake/Clutch Cylinder Fluid. See Brakes on page 343 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 331. F. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 411. G. Battery. See Battery on page 347. H. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 348. I. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See “Checking Coolant” under Engine Coolant on page 331. J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 341. 315 When you open the hood on the 3.5L V6 engine, you will see the following: 316 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 324. B. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 318. C. Engine Oil Fill Cap (Out of View). See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 318. D. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 348. E. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See Brakes on page 343. F. Battery. See Battery on page 347. G. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 411. H. Remote Positive (+) Terminal (Out of View). See Jump Starting on page 348. I. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See “Checking Coolant” under Engine Coolant on page 331. J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 341. 317 Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop for the 2.2L L4 engine and an orange loop for the 3.5L V6 engine. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 314 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 318 When to Add Engine Oil 2.2L L4 Engine 3.5L V6 Engine If the oil is below the MIN (minimum) mark for the 2.2L L4 engine or below the lower mark (B) for the 3.5L V6 engine, you need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 414. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. 2.2L L4 Engine 3.5L V6 Engine See Engine Compartment Overview on page 314 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 319 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use For Vehicles with the 2.2L L4 Engine Only Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. 320 (cid:129) Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. 321 For Vehicles with the 3.5L V6 Engine Only As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-20 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. 322 Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oil with the starburst symbol are all you need for good performance and engine protection. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light will come on. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 179. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life

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2007 Saturn VUE Owners Manual