2004 Saturn VUE Owners Manual

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Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing” following in this section. 4-46 Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations. (cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. (cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-37. Dinghy Towing (All-Wheel Drive and Front-Wheel Drive with VTi Transaxle) Any all-wheel drive vehicles or front-wheel drive vehicles equipped with the VTi transaxle should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground. Front-wheel drive vehicles equipped with the VTi variable transaxle, manual transaxle or ﬁve-speed automatic transaxle may also be towed from the front by putting the front wheels on a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” later in this section. (cid:127) Dinghy Towing (Manual or Five-Speed Automatic Transaxle*) To tow your vehicle from the front with all four wheels on the ground, do the following: 1. Position and attach the vehicle to tow it behind the recreational vehicle. 2. Turn the ignition key to ACC. 3. Turn fog lamps and all accessories off. 4. If you have the manual transaxle, shift your transaxle to NEUTRAL and let the engine run for three minutes, then turn it off. Notice: Towing your vehicle after shifting the ﬁve-speed automatic transaxle from anything other than DRIVE (D) to NEUTRAL (N) can cause internal damage to the automatic transaxle. Always shift the ﬁve-speed automatic transaxle from DRIVE (D) to NEUTRAL (N) as the last shift before towing. 5. If you have the automatic ﬁve-speed transaxle, shift your transaxle from DRIVE (D) to NEUTRAL and let the engine run for three minutes, then turn it off. 6. Locate and remove the large IGNITION fuse from the underhood fuse block. See “Instrument Panel Fuse Block” under Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-98. If you tow your vehicle without performing Notice: each of the steps listed under “Dinghy Towing,” you could damage the automatic transaxle. Be sure to follow all steps of the dinghy towing procedure prior to and after towing your vehicle. Notice: If you tow your vehicle for more than eight hours per day or at speeds greater than 65 mph (105 km/h), you could damage the automatic transaxle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle for extended periods of time or at speeds greater than 65 mph (105 km/h). 4-47 Once you have reached your destination, do the following: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Shift the transaxle to FIRST (1) for manual transaxle. 3. Turn the ignition key to LOCK and remove the key from the ignition. 4. Replace the large IGNITION fuse. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transaxle. Be sure that the transaxle ﬂuid is at the proper level before towing with all four wheels on the ground. Notice: Don’t tow a vehicle with the front drive wheels on the ground if one of the front tires is a compact spare tire. Towing with two different tire sizes on the front of the vehicle can cause severe damage to the transaxle. Dolly Towing (All-Wheel Drive Vehicles) All-wheel drive vehicles should not be towed from the front with two wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground. 4-48 Dolly Towing (Front-Wheel Drive Vehicles) To tow your front-wheel drive vehicle from the front with two wheels on the ground, do the following: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. If you have a ﬁve-speed automatic transaxle or VTi variable transaxle, move the shift lever to PARK (P). If you have a manual transaxle, move the shift lever to SECOND (2). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing. 5. Release the parking brake. Towing Your Vehicle From the Rear Notice: Towing your vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from the rear. Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certiﬁcation/Tire label. {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. 4-49 The Tire and Loading Information label also tells you the size and recommended inﬂation pressure for the original equipment tires on your vehicle. For more information on tires and inﬂation see Tires on page 5-62 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69. If your vehicle does not have the Tire and Loading Information label, the Certiﬁcation/Tire label shows the tire size and recommended inﬂation pressures needed to obtain the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certiﬁcation/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX pounds” on your vehicle placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle. 3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kilograms or XXX pounds. Tire and Loading Information Label A. Vehicle Capacity Weight The Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar, near the driver’s door latch. Vehicles without a center pillar will have the Tire and Loading Information label attached to the driver’s door edge. This label lists the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight it can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight. 4-50 4. The resulting ﬁgure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs. and there will be ﬁve 150 lb. passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs. (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs.). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-55 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips. Example 1 Item Loading Your Vehicle Description Total Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs. (68 kg) × 2 = C Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 1,000 lbs. (453 kg) 300 lbs. (136 kg) 700 lbs. (317 kg) 4-51 Example 2 Loading Your Vehicle Description Total 1,000 lbs. (453 kg) 750 lbs. (340 kg) 250 lbs. (113 kg) Item Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs. (68 kg) × 5 = C Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 4-52 Example 3 Loading Your Vehicle Description Total Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs. (91 kg) × 5 = 1,000 lbs. (453 kg) 1,000 lbs. (453 kg) Item C Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 0 lbs. (0 kg) Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. Certiﬁcation/Tire Label The Certiﬁcation/Tire label is located on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the proper size and speed rating of your original tires, as well as the inﬂation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo, and trailer tongue weight, if your vehicle is pulling a trailer. The Certiﬁcation/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To ﬁnd out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your retailer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Similar looking vehicles may have different GVWRs and payloads. Please consult your vehicle’s Certiﬁcation/Tire label or your retailer for additional details. {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. 4-53 CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. (cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. (cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to. Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment Your vehicle was neither designed nor intended for a snow plow. Notice: Adding a snow plow or similar equipment to your vehicle can damage it, and the repairs would not be covered by warranty. Do not install a snow plow or similar equipment on your vehicle. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your vehicle’s weight ratings. Ask your retailer to help you load your vehicle correctly if you are using these components. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going. {CAUTION: Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. (cid:127) Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly. (cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. CAUTION: (Continued) 4-54 Towing a Trailer {CAUTION: If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part and see your retailer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Do not tow a trailer if your vehicle is equipped with the Red Line package. You can damage your vehicle. If you are not sure if your vehicle is equipped with the Red Line package, contact your retailer. Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. 4-55 If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer If you do, here are some important points: There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. (cid:127) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later in this section. (cid:127) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the ﬁrst 500 miles (805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Then, during the ﬁrst 500 miles (805 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. If you have an automatic transaxle, you can use Intermediate (I) or as you need to, a lower gear which will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transaxle. If you have a VTi variable transaxle, you can use Drive (D) or as you need to Intermediate (I). If you have a manual transaxle, you should not use ﬁfth gear. Drive in fourth gear or as you need to a lower gear. (cid:127) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts. (cid:127) Don’t tow a trailer when the outside temperature is above 100°F (38°C). Three important considerations have to do with weight: the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,500 lbs. (680 kg) for the four cylinder and 3500 lbs (1587 kg) for the six cylinder. But even that can be too heavy. 4-56 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your retailer for trailering information or advice. Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-49 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity. If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you’re using a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. 4-57 Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. You will ﬁnd these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver’s side rear door or see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-49. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR), including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. (cid:127) Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-27. Dirt and water can, too. 4-58 Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, don’t try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes, so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. (cid:127) And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer when towing a trailer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal ﬂasher and/or extra wiring. See your retailer if you need information. The arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also ﬂash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. 4-59 When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving on Grades Notice: Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal engine and transaxle temperatures may result and damage your vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to allow the engine and transaxle to cool. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating. If your engine does overheat, see Engine Overheating on page 5-31. Parking on Hills {CAUTION: You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle, or into gear for a manual transaxle. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb. 2. Have someone place chocks behind the trailer wheels. 4-60 3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle or REVERSE (R) for a manual transaxle. 5. Release the regular brakes. When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you: start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake. 2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle ﬂuid (don’t overﬁll), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you ﬁnd them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-31. Changing a Tire When Trailer Towing If you get a ﬂat tire while towing a trailer, be sure to secure the trailer and disconnect it from the vehicle before changing the tire. 4-61 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) When connecting a trailer harness, be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring does not bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store harness below jack in the cargo area when it is not in use. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it will not be damaged. Trailer Wiring Additional wire length has been provided for connecting trailer wiring to your vehicle. A loop of ﬁve wires is stored below the jack, which is located on the driver’s side of the cargo area. The wires are fused in both the underhood and instrument fuse block. See “Instrument Panel Fuse Block” and “Underhood Fuse Block” under Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-98. The wires don’t have a connector and should be wired to the trailer by a qualiﬁed electrical technician. The technician can use the following chart when connecting a trailer wiring harness to your vehicle. (cid:127) Yellow: Left Turn Signal (cid:127) Brown: Parking Lamps Light Blue: Stop Lamps (cid:127) Black: Ground Wire (cid:127) Dark Green: Right Turn Signal 4-62 (cid:127) Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ............................................................5-3 Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle ..............................................5-5 Fuel ................................................................5-5 Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-5 California Fuel ...............................................5-6 Additives .......................................................5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7 Filling Your Tank ............................................5-8 Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10 Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10 Hood Release ..............................................5-11 Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12 Engine Oil ...................................................5-15 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-21 Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-25 Manual Transaxle Fluid ..................................5-27 Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-28 Engine Coolant .............................................5-28 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-31 Engine Overheating .......................................5-31 Cooling System ............................................5-34 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-40 Brakes ........................................................5-41 Battery ........................................................5-44 Jump Starting ...............................................5-45 All-Wheel Drive ..............................................5-51 Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-52 Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-53 Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-53 Headlamps ..................................................5-53 Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps ..............5-56 Fog Lamps ..................................................5-57 Sidemarker Lamps ........................................5-57 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-58 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps .........................................5-59 Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-60 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-60 Tires ..............................................................5-62 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-69 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-70 When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-71 Buying New Tires .........................................5-72 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-73 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-74 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-75 Tire Chains ..................................................5-76 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-77 Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-78 Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-88 Appearance Care ............................................5-89 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-89 Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-92 Weatherstrips ...............................................5-92 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle ..............5-92 Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-95 Finish Damage .............................................5-95 Underbody Maintenance ................................5-95 Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-95 Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-96 Vehicle Identiﬁcation ......................................5-97 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) .................5-97 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label .....................5-97 Electrical System ............................................5-98 Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-98 Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-98 Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-98 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-98 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-102 5-2 Service Your Saturn retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your retailer for all your service needs. You will get genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your Saturn vehicle all Saturn. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks. California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. 5-3 {CAUTION: You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-9. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-56. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-18. 5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. Gasoline Speciﬁcations It is recommended that gasoline meet speciﬁcations which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org/fuel_charter.htm. Gasoline meeting these speciﬁcations could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline. 5-5 California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emission Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-35. If this occurs, return to your authorized Saturn retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Also, your retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. 5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Saturn retailer for service. 5-7 Filling Your Tank 5-8 {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, ﬂames and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. The fuel ﬁller cap is located behind a hinged door on the passenger’s side of your vehicle. It is tethered to the door to prevent loss while refueling. Make sure that water, snow, and dirt are kept away from the ﬁller cap and ﬁller pipe nozzle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). It will require about 1/2 of a turn to remove the cap. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right (clockwise). {CAUTION: If you get fuel on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-92. When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) about 1/4 of a turn until you hear three clicks. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere and may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to come on. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-35. Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-35. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get 5-9 Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. (cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-10 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the handle located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up on the secondary hood release lever. 3. Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot marked PROP ROD. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then just let the hood down and close it ﬁrmly. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.2L (L61) four cylinder engine, you’ll see the following: 5-12 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21. B. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See Engine Oil on page 5-15. C. Engine Oil Dipstick. See Engine Oil on page 5-15. D. Brake/Clutch Cylinder Fluid. See Brakes on page 5-41 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-28. E. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-98. F. Battery. See Battery on page 5-44. G. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-40. H. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28. Before closing the hood, be sure all ﬁller caps are on properly. 5-13 When you open the hood on the 3.5L V6 (L66) engine, you’ll see the following: 5-14 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21. B. Engine Oil Dipstick. See Engine Oil on page 5-15. C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See Engine Oil on page 5-15. D. Battery. See Battery on page 5-44. E. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-98. F. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28. G. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-40. Before closing the hood, be sure all ﬁller caps are on properly. Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop for the 2.2L L4 engine and an orange loop for the 3.5L V6 engine. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 2.2L L4 (L61) Engine 5-15 3.5L V6 (L66) Engine When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the MIN mark for the 2.2L L4 engine or below the lower mark (B) for the 3.5L V6 engine, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-102. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged. 5-16 2.2L L4 (L61) Engine 3.5L V6 (L66) Engine See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use For Vehicles with the 2.2L L4 (L61) Engine Only Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, if it is going to be 0°F (–18°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available, you may use SAE 10W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. 5-17 Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. For Vehicles with the 3.5L V6 (L66) Engine Only 5-18 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-20 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oil with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. 5-19 How to Reset the Oil Life System The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON light being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, reset the system by performing the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal three times within ﬁve seconds. If the Change Engine Oil light is ﬂashing, the system is reset. The light will ﬂash for up to 30 seconds or until the ignition is turned off. If the light comes on again and stays on for 30 seconds at the next ignition cycle, it did not reset. You will need to reset the system again. When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life System) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON light will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine Saturn parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. 5-20 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Replacement What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at every oil change and replace at the ﬁrst oil change after 25,000 miles (40 000 km). 5-21 If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. To replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Unscrew the clamp on the air duct hose. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains “caked” with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. The engine air cleaner/ﬁlter is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for information on when to replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂame if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. 5-22 2. Disconnect the hose. 3. Release clamps on side of air cleaner assembly. 4. Rotate cover upward to disengage cover hinges. 5-23 Make sure you are away from the engine compartment when cleaning the air ﬁlter with compressed air. Wipe all dust from inside of the housing and inspect the air cleaner and air outlets duct for cracks, cuts and deterioration. The air outlet duct must be replaced if damaged. 6. Install the air ﬁlter element. 7. Install the air cleaner cover, making sure that the cover hinges are properly engaged into position. 8. Latch the air cleaner cover into position using the clips on the side of the air cleaner box. 9. Connect the electrical connection to the mass air ﬂow sensor, if applicable. 10. Reposition the air cleaner outlet duct assembly. 11. Tighten the air cleaner outlet duct clamp. 5. Remove air cleaner cover assembly and air ﬁlter element. If the air ﬁlter element is dirty, you should replace it. If it is only dusty, it may be cleaned by blowing compressed air through it from the clean side. 5-24 Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the ﬂuid every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. (cid:127) When doing recreational/trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the ﬂuid at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic – especially in hot weather. (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. 5-25 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Checking the Fluid Level (Automatic Transaxle with 2.2L L4 Engine) Prepare your vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. (cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). (cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The transaxle ﬂuid dipstick handle is the black loop near the rear of the engine compartment, toward the center. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be in the cross-hatched area. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. 5-26 Checking the Fluid Level (Automatic Transaxle with 3.5L V6 Engine) Prepare your vehicle as follows: (cid:127) Park your vehicle on a level place. (cid:127) Warm the engine to normal operating temperature until the electric radiator fan turns on at least once. (cid:127) With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). (cid:127) With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Then, turn off the engine and, follow these steps: The transaxle ﬂuid dipstick handle is the yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be between the upper mark and the lower mark. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. Manual Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle ﬂuid level. A transaxle ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your retailer’s service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have your ﬂuid level checked by your retailer or service center when you have your oil changed. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14 for the proper ﬂuid to use. Notice: Use of manual transaxle ﬂuid other than that listed in the Maintenance Schedule may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct manual transaxle ﬂuid in your vehicle. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14 for the correct manual transaxle ﬂuid. How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough ﬂuid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overﬁll. Notice: Use of automatic transaxle ﬂuid other than that listed in the Maintenance Schedule may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct automatic transaxle ﬂuid in your vehicle. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14 for the correct automatic transaxle ﬂuid. 3. After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check” earlier in this section. 4. When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way. 5-27 Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The hydraulic clutch system does not have its own reservoir. The system receives ﬂuid from the brake master cylinder reservoir. It is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Brakes on page 5-41 for more information. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 100,000 miles (166 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-31. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-28 (cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your retailer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. If you use the proper coolant, you do not What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 5-29 Checking Coolant CAUTION: (Continued) badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. The surge tank is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you (Continued) CAUTION: 5-30 The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the Cold line (surge tank seam). When your engine is warm, the level should be at the Cold line or a little higher. If the low coolant light comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant. See Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-34. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. See Engine Overheating on page 5-31 for instructions on “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank.” {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight. If the pressure cap is not tightly Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. If you replace your coolant surge tank pressure cap, a Saturn cap is required. Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage and a coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-34 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-33. You will also ﬁnd a low coolant level warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-34. 5-31 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. 5-32 If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant light, can indicate a serious problem. See Low Coolant Warning Light on page 3-34. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant light, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it’s on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the window as necessary. 3. Try to minimize engine load. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving. 5-33 (cid:127) (cid:127) Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. A. Electric Engine Fan B. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap 5-34 CAUTION: (Continued) Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-35 The coolant level should be at the COLD line (surge tank seam). If it is not, you may have a leak at the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a speciﬁc coolant ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information. {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they (Continued) CAUTION: 5-36 {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 5-37 3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, to the COLD line. 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one-quarter of a turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 5-38 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the COLD line. 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight. Check the level in the surge tank when the cooling system has cooled down. If the coolant is not at the proper level, repeat Steps 1 through 3 and reinstall the pressure cap. If the coolant isn’t at the proper level when the system cools down again, see your retailer. 5-39 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield or rear window (wagon models) washer ﬂuid be sure to read the instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Windshield Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer ﬂuid symbol printed on it and add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. 5-40 (cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-30. 5-41 What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-89. 5-42 (cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly). {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to Saturn torque speciﬁcations. Your rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. 5-43 Brake Pedal Travel See your retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system —for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved Saturn replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. 5-44 Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-45 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to or ignite. burn you. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-72. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. 5-45 Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. 5-46 If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. The terminals for the 2.2L L4 engine are located on the side of the battery and the terminals for the 3.5L V6 engine are located on top of the battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 5-47 6. Remove the terminal cover, if equipped, and connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. The positive (+) terminal on your vehicle is covered by a protector cap which must be removed before you connect the positive (+) jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. 5-48 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal

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2004 Saturn VUE Owners Manual