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(3.5L V6 Engine) It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to the dealer/retailer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 408, and be sure to use the transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415.
Automatic Transaxle Fluid (3.6L V6 Engine) When to Check and Change Automatic Transaxle Fluid A good time to check the automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 408, and be sure to use the transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415. How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department.
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If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above
90°F (32°C).
(cid:129) At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
(cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.
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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift
lever in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the
shift lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three to
five minutes.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transaxle fluid dipstick handle has this symbol on it, and is located near the front of the engine compartment.
(cid:129) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308
for more information on location. 1. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a cleanrag or paper towel.
2. Reinstall it back in all the way, wait
three seconds and then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be within the cross hatched area.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range,
reinstall the dipstick back in all the way.
How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Remove the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than a half pint (0.24 L). Do not overfill.
Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section. 4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, reinstall the dipstick back in all the way.
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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 325. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down to
−34°F (−37°C).
(cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C).
(cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.
Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
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(cid:129) What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
If you use an improper coolant
Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415 for more information.
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{CAUTION:
Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark or slightly higher.
Checking Coolant
The engine coolant surge tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308
for more information on location.324
Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. If the surge tank is empty, a special fill procedure is necessary. See Engine Overheating on page 325 and Cooling System on page 328.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.
If the pressure cap is not tightly
Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308
for more information on location.Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.
If the pressure cap is not tightly
Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage as well as an engine coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 198 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 198.
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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 327 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.
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If your engine catches fire because
Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 327 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic.
(cid:129) Tow a trailer.
(cid:129) If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in
NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest
fan speed and open the windows as necessary.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You might decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 312.
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{CAUTION:
An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark on the front of the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.
Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:
3.5L V6 Engine shown, 3.6L V6 Engine similar
A. Electric Engine Cooling Fans (Out of View) B. Engine Coolant Surge Tank C. Pressure Cap
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Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service.
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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 322 for more information.
If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:
{CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
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{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
In cold weather, water can freeze and
Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
1. You can remove the
coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.
Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.
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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off,
start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the FULL COLD mark, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.
5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
See your dealer/retailer, if necessary.
Power Steering Fluid
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308 for reservoir location.
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly,
and remove it.
3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the
proper mixture, to the FULL COLD mark on the front of the surge tank. Wait about five minutes, then check to see if the level is below the FULL COLD mark. If the level is below the FULL COLD mark, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the mark. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the FULL COLD mark for at least five minutes.
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When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless a leak is suspected in the system, or an unusual noise is heard. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine
compartment cool down.
2. Wipe the cap and the top of the
reservoir clean.
3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a
clean rag.
4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the
fluid level on the dipstick
If your vehicle has the 3.5L V6 engine, the fluid level should be between the ADD and HOT marks when the engine is cold, and at the HOT mark when the engine is hot. If the fluid is at the ADD mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering fluid should be added.
If your vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine, the fluid level should be between the MIN (Minimum) and MAX (Maximum) marks when the engine is cold. and at the MAX mark when the engine is hot. If the fluid is at the MIN mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering fluid should be added. The fluid level should be within the crosshatch area on the dipstick. If the fluid is at or below the ADD mark on the dipstick, add just enough fluid to bring the level within the crosshatch area. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415. Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage your vehicle and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415.
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Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer
fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.
(cid:129) Fill the washer fluid tank only
three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in
your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.
Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer fluid reservoir is low, a LOW WASHER FLUID message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 206 for more information.
Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308
for reservoir location.334
Brakes Brake Fluid
The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308 for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have the brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.
So, it is not a good idea to top off the brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when the linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If your vehicle has too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the BRAKE FLUID message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) displays. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 206.
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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 415. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.{CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 385.
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(cid:129) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 401. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear.
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Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down.
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 339 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308
for battery location.338
Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode
(cid:129) They contain enough electricity to
or ignite.
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
Ignoring these steps could result in
Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a
12-volt battery with a negative ground system.
If the other vehicle’s system is not a
Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper
cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.
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Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles.
Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!
4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.
Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. Your vehicle’s positive (+) terminal is located under a red tethered cap on the battery.
The negative (–) terminal is located under a black tethered cap on the battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 308 for more information on location. Flip the caps up to access the positive (+) and negative (–) terminals.
{CAUTION:
An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
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{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect
it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
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9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery
and run the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from
the vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from
the vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
other vehicle.
5. Return the caps over the positive (+) and
negative (–) terminals to their original positions.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or
Remote Negative (–) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and
Remote Negative (–) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
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Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page 346. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your retailer.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps
A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Stoplamp/Taillamp
C. Backup Lamp D. Sidemarker Lamp If a stoplamp or a taillamp needs to be replaced, see your dealer/retailer.
To replace a sidemarker lamp, turn signal lamp, or a back-up lamp: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 106 for
more information.
2. Remove the convenience net, if the vehicle
has one.
3. Remove the wing nuts holding the trunk trim.
5. Remove the taillamp assembly. 6. Remove the wiring harness from the taillamp
assembly by lifting the release tab.
7. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to
remove it.
8. Pull the bulb from the socket. 9. Install a new bulb. 10. Reverse Steps 2 through 6 to reinstall the
taillamp assembly.
4. Remove the three wing nuts, which hold the
taillamp assembly, from inside the vehicle.
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3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and
pull the bulb straight out of the socket.
4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the
lamp assembly.
Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamp
Bulb Number
Back-up Lamp License Plate Lamp and Rear Sidemarker Lamp Turn Signal Lamp
921
168
3156
For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.
License Plate Lamp To replace the license plate lamp bulb:
1. Remove the two screws holding the license
plate lamp assembly to the fascia.
2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward
through the fascia opening.
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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 406 for more information on wiper blade inspection. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here is how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away
from the windshield.
3. Install the new blade onto the arm connector
and make sure the grooved areas are fully set in the locked position.
For the proper type and size, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 416.
2. Squeeze the grooved areas on each side of the blade, and turn the blade assembly away from the arm connector.
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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Saturn Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
(cid:129) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 279.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
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CAUTION:
(Continued)
(cid:129) Underinflated tires pose the same
danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 356.
(cid:129) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
(cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.
Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example
(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.
(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.
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(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.
(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.
(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 366.
(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.
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Compact Spare Tire Example
(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 381 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 369.
(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.
(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.
(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.
(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 356.
(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.
(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
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Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.
(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
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(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.
(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.
(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.
(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and Definitions
Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.
Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.
Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 356.
Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.
GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 279.
GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 279.
GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 279.
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Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.
Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 279.
Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.
Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.
Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 356 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 279.
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Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90
degrees to the centerline of the tread.Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.
Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.
Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.
Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.
Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.
Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 363.
UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 366.
Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 279.
Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.
Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 279.
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Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much flexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road hazards
A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 279. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 381.
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How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
Tire Pressure Monitor System Your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). This system uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. Sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, except for the spare tire. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.)
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As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated.
Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale.
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Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning symbol on the instrument panel cluster, and at the same time the CHECK TIRE PRESS message appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display.
The low tire pressure warning symbol on the instrument panel cluster, and the CHECK TIRE PRESS message appear at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 205 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 206. The tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the tire pressures are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 279, for an example of the tire information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 356. Your vehicle’s TPMS system can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 362 and Tires on page 348.
Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle has Tire Pressure Monitors. The liquid sealant can damage the tire pressure monitor sensors. The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. See your Saturn retailer for service if all TPMS sensors are installed and the error message comes on and stays on. TPMS Sensor Identification Codes Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel positions, in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your Saturn retailer for service. The TPMS sensors may also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall.
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You have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you need to start over. The TPMS matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON with the
engine off.
3. Press and hold both the Lock and Unlock
buttons on the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter, at the same time, for approximately five seconds or until you hear the horn sound twice.
4. The horn sounds twice to indicate the TPMS
receiver is ready to learn TPMS sensors. The driver side front turn signal also comes on to indicate that corner’s sensor is ready to be learned.
5. Start with the driver side front tire.
6. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve
stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for about eight seconds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds to sound, sounds one time and all the turn signals flash one time to confirm that the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key.
7. The passenger side front turn signal comes
on to indicate that corner’s sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side front tire and repeat the procedure in Step 6.
8. The passenger side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner’s sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire and repeat the procedure in Step 6.
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9. The driver side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner’s sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 6.
10. After hearing the single horn chirp for the driver side rear tire, two additional horn chirps sound to indicate the tire learning process is done. Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
11. Set all four tires to the recommended air
pressure level as indicated on the tire and loading information label.
12. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency subject to Federal Communications Commission (FCC) Rules and with Industry and Science Canada.
This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful
interference.
2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.
This device complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.
Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.
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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 363
and Wheel Replacement on page 367 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 406.When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.
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Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 401.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 370.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:129) You can see the indicators at three or more
places around the tire.
(cid:129) You can see cord or fabric showing through
the tire’s rubber.
(cid:129) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or
snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.
(cid:129) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:129) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage
that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires.
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GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 349 for additional information.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 381.
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage
CAUTION:
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If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
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If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 279, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle.
Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.
{CAUTION:
If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use Saturn specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a Saturn certified technician.
See Buying New Tires on page 363 and Accessories and Modifications on page 297 for additional information.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
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Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your retailer for proper diagnosis.
Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need.
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Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new Saturn original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 370 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels
{CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.
{CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new Saturn original equipment wheel.
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Tire Chains
{CAUTION:
Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your vehicle’s wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.
If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
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A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your vehicle’s hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 162 for more information.
{CAUTION:
Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
CAUTION:
(Continued)
{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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CAUTION:
(Continued)
3. Turn off the engine and do not restart
while the vehicle is raised.
4. Do not allow passengers to remain in
the vehicle.
To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.
When your vehicle has a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.
The following information tells you how to use the jack and change a tire.
371
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you will need is located in the trunk. 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 106 for
more information.
2. Lift the handle on the spare tire cover. The
handle can hook on the front edge of the trunk’s weatherstrip to hold the cover out of the way.
4. Remove the wing nut holding the jack
in place.
5. Remove the extension bolt that is clipped
to the jack. You need this later to store the flat tire.
6. Remove the jack and wheel wrench from
the trunk.
3. Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and
remove it. Then remove the compact spare tire. See Compact Spare Tire on page 381 for more information.
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The tools you will be using include the wheel wrench (A) and jack (B).
1. Turn the plastic wing nut counterclockwise to
loosen the wheel wrench.
2. Unhook the wheel wrench from the jack.
3. Extend the handle on the wheel wrench by
pressing the button with your index finger and pulling on the end of the wrench. You must do this before using the wheel wrench.
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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. Do a safety check before proceeding. Please
see Changing a Flat Tire on page 370 for more information.
2. If your vehicle has a wheel cover or hubcap that has plastic wheel nut caps, then loosen the plastic nut caps. You might need to use the wheel wrench to loosen them. Do not pry off wheel covers or center caps that have plastic wheel nut caps.
3. Remove the wheel cover or center cap from
the wheel to locate the wheel nuts. If your vehicle has a wheel cover or hubcap without plastic wheel nut caps, carefully pry on the edge of the plastic wheel trim to remove it from the wheel to find the wheel nuts. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat repaired or replaced.
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4. Use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel
nuts. Do not remove them yet.
5. Position the lift head at the jack location nearest the flat tire. Make sure all of the jack lift head is touching the jacking flange under the body. Do not place the jack under a body panel. The lower body panel has an arrow to aid in locating the jacking location. 6. Put the compact spare tire near the flat tire.
{CAUTION:
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.
{CAUTION:
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.
375
8. Remove all of the
wheel nuts.
7. Raise the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench
clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit underneath the wheel well.
9. Remove the flat tire.
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{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When changing a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, a cloth or a paper towel can be used to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.
11. Install the compact spare tire.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. Because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.
12. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded
end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.
10. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces, and spare wheel.
377
{CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 401
for wheel nut torque specification.Improperly tightened wheel nuts can
Notice:
