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passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight. Certification Label


The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. See “Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit” earlier in this section.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.


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Label Example


A vehicle specific Certification label is attached to the center pillar, near the driver’s door latch. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like


suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child


restraint in your vehicle.


(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down


unless you need to.


If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


{CAUTION:


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:127) Put things in the rear area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly. If you have fold-down rear seats, you will find four anchors on the back wall of your trunk. You can use these anchors to tie down lighter loads. They are not strong enough for heavy things, however, so put them as far forward as you can in the trunk or rear area.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


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Towing


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 406. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).


With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment?


(cid:127)


See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 244.


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Dinghy Towing If your vehicle has an automatic transaxle, it cannot be dinghy towed. See “Dolly Towing” for more information regarding towing your vehicle. If your vehicle has a manual transaxle, it can be dinghy towed.


2. Turn the ignition to ACC to avoid locking the steering wheel. Make sure the audio system is turned off and that nothing is plugged into the power outlets.


3. Release the parking brake. After dinghy towing, let the engine idle for more than three minutes before driving the vehicle.


When dinghy towing, be sure to follow the posted legal speed limit. 1. Put the shift lever in NEUTRAL.


Do not tow your vehicle from the rear. Your vehicle could be badly damaged and the repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


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Dolly Towing


To tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P) for an automatic


transaxle and in NEUTRAL for a manual transaxle.


3. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing.


4. Release the parking brake.


Towing a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the vehicle trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section.


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Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.


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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:127) There are many different laws, including speed


limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. You can ask a


hitch dealer about sway controls.


(cid:127) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first


1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.


(cid:127) Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that


you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


(cid:127) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.


the weight of the trailer the weight of the trailer tongue


Three important considerations have to do with weight: (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information.


Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 404 for more information. Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 253 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


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See Loading Your Vehicle on page 253. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:127) Don’t let the steel in a hitch contact the


aluminum on your bumper. If you do, the two will corrode. You can use something like paint or plastic tape to separate the steel and aluminum. The same steel to aluminum problem can happen with fasteners too.


(cid:127) Will you have to make any holes in the body


of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 119. Dirt and water can too.


If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire and Loading Information label located on the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar).


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Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. And, if you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both systems won’t work well, or at all.


Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch, platform and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.


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Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.


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Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transaxle overheating. Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into


PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle or into gear for a manual transaxle, yet. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer


wheels.


3. When the chocks are in place, release the


regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle or REVERSE (R) for a manual transaxle.


5. Release the regular brakes.


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Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 297.


When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal


down while you: (cid:127) start your engine (cid:127) shift into a gear, and (cid:127)


release the parking brake


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the


chocks.


4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


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Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ........................................................ 272
Accessories and Modifications ................... 272
California Proposition 65 Warning .............. 273
Doing Your Own Service Work .................. 273
Adding Equipment to the Outside of


Your Vehicle .......................................... 274
Fuel ............................................................. 274
Gasoline Octane ........................................ 274
Gasoline Specifications .............................. 274
California Fuel ........................................... 275
Additives ................................................... 275
Fuels in Foreign Countries ........................ 276
Filling the Tank ......................................... 277
Filling a Portable Fuel Container ............... 279
Checking Things Under the Hood .............. 280
Hood Release ........................................... 280
Engine Compartment Overview .................. 282
Engine Oil ................................................. 284
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ............................ 288
Automatic Transaxle Fluid ......................... 290


Manual Transaxle Fluid ............................. 292
Hydraulic Clutch ........................................ 293
Engine Coolant .......................................... 294
Radiator Pressure Cap .............................. 297
Engine Overheating ................................... 297
Cooling System ......................................... 299
Power Steering Fluid ................................. 304
Windshield Washer Fluid ........................... 305
Brakes ...................................................... 306
Battery ...................................................... 309
Jump Starting ............................................ 310
Bulb Replacement ....................................... 315
Halogen Bulbs ........................................... 315
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and


Parking Lamps ....................................... 316


Center High-Mounted


Stoplamp (CHMSL) ................................ 317
Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps ...... 318
Back-Up Lamps ......................................... 320
Replacement Bulbs ................................... 320


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Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ....... 321
Tires ............................................................ 322
Tire Sidewall Labeling ............................... 323
Tire Terminology and Definitions ............... 326
Inflation - Tire Pressure ............................. 329
Tire Pressure Monitor System ................... 330
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...................... 333
When It Is Time for New Tires .................. 335
Buying New Tires ...................................... 336
Different Size Tires and Wheels ................ 337
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 338
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 339
Wheel Replacement .................................. 340
Tire Chains ............................................... 341
If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 342
Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 343
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 344
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the


Spare Tire ............................................. 346
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...... 351
Compact Spare Tire .................................. 354


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Appearance Care ........................................ 354
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 354
Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 356
Leather ...................................................... 356
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other


Plastic Surfaces ..................................... 357
Care of Safety Belts .................................. 357
Weatherstrips ............................................ 358
Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 358
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 358
Finish Care ............................................... 358
Windshield, Backglass, and


Wiper Blades ......................................... 359
Aluminum Wheels ...................................... 359
Tires ......................................................... 360
Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 360
Finish Damage .......................................... 361
Underbody Maintenance ............................ 361
Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 361
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ............ 362


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Vehicle Identification .................................. 363
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ........... 363
Service Parts Identification Label ............... 363
Electrical System ........................................ 364
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 364
Headlamp Wiring ....................................... 364
Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 364
Power Windows and Other Power


Options .................................................. 364


Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....................... 365
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..................... 365
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ............... 367
Capacities and Specifications .................... 369
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts ... 370
Engine Drive Belt Routing ......................... 371


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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.


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California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


Doing Your Own Service Work


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,


and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 417. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 80. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Part E: Maintenance Record on page 396.


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Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, GM recommends the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.


Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 275 for additional information.


274


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 170. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.


275


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer for service.


276


Filling the Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.


277


The fuel door release lever is located near the floor under the driver’s seat on the outboard side.


To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. On some vehicles you may have to push in while turning the cap. While refueling, hang the fuel cap inside of the fuel door.


278


{CAUTION:


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank, and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 358. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed.


This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 170.


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to


Notice: get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 170.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.


(cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. (cid:127) Do not use a cellular phone while


pumping gasoline.


279


Checking Things Under the Hood


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the release handle with this symbol on it. It is located below the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


280


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up


on the secondary hood release. The lever is located near the middle of the hood.


3. Lift the hood.


4. Release the hood prop rod from its retainer and put it into the slot in the hood. To insert the hood prop rod into the slot, move it straight up. If it is moved to the side or toward the inside of the vehicle, it may become detached. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Make sure to return the hood prop rod carefully back to its retainer to avoid damaging the vehicle.


281


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood, here is what you will see:


282


A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 305.


B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power


Steering Fluid on page 304.


C. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure


Cap on page 297.


D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 284.


E. Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 299.


F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine


Oil” under Engine Oil on page 284.


G. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick (If


Equipped). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 290.


H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir and


Hydraulic Clutch (If Equipped). See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 306 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 293.


I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 288.


J. Battery. See Battery on page 309. K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine


Compartment Fuse Block on page 367.


283


Engine Oil


If the engine oil pressure light appears on the instrument cluster, check the engine oil level right away.


For more information, see Oil Pressure Light on page 173. You should check the engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.


Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282
for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper


towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


284


When to Add Engine Oil


If the oil is below the indent at the tip of the dipstick, you need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 369. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper hole, the engine could be damaged.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282
for the location of the engine oil fill cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use


These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.


Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.


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If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommend that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil Change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles (8 000 km) or 3 months, whichever occurs first. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 377.


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.


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When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the air cleaner/filter at each engine oil change. Replace the filter every 30,000 miles (48 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 376 for more information. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


The engine air cleaner/filter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282
for more information on location.


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To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following:


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


1. Release the two clips that hold the cover down. 2. Lift the cover off. 3. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 4. Reinstall the cover.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire


Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


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Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transaxle Fluid A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Check the fluid in the transaxle and differential at the intervals listed in Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 376, and be sure to use the transaxle fluid listed in Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 394. How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.


Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F


(32°C).


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


(cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. (cid:127) (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 158°F to 176°F (70°C to 80°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.


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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the


engine running.


2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift


lever in PARK (P).


3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).


4. Let the engine run at idle for three to


five minutes.


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The automatic transaxle dipstick has an orange handle and is located near the front of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282 for more information on location. 1. Release the tab and pull out the dipstick and


wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds


and then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the


lower level. The fluid level must be between the two dimples in the hot range.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place.


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How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 394. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the area between dimples on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.


Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 394. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section.


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4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then press the tab down to lock the dipstick in place.


Manual Transaxle Fluid When to Check A good time to have your manual transaxle fluid level checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transaxle does not require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Pontiac dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid.


Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check the fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid will not correct a leak. The hydraulic clutch and brake master cylinder use the same reservoir. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transaxle is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transaxle case. Then, follow these steps: 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the


bottom of the filler plug hole.


3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be


sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.


How to Add Fluid Here is how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 394. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully


seated.


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When to Check and What to Use


The reservoir is located at the back of the engine compartment, on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282 for more information on location.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 386 and Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 394.


How to Check and Add Fluid Check to make sure that the fluid level is at or above the MIN mark. If the level is below the MIN mark, see the instructions on the reservoir cap.


Engine Coolant Your vehicle was factory-filled with a coolant developed to last for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first. When coolant is added or changed, use DEX-COOL® coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 297.


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A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F


(− 37°C).


(cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as they


should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


If you use an improper coolant


Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts.


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If you use extra inhibitors and/or


If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 394 for more information. Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at LOW, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL, or a little higher. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282
for the location of the coolant recovery tank. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


{CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


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Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 299.


If the pressure cap is not tightly


Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282
for more information on location.


Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 169.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


If your engine catches fire because


Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


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If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in


NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest


fan speed and open the windows as necessary.


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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank C. Radiator Pressure Cap


{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.


299


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty.


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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 294 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and


Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


301


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator


3. Fill the radiator with the proper coolant


mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 294 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap


when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now


push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.


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4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the


FULL mark.


5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank,


but leave the radiator pressure cap off.


6. Start the engine and let it run until you can


feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.


7. By this time, the coolant level inside the


radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time


during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the ears on the pressure cap are in line with the vent tube.


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Power Steering Fluid


The power steering fluid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282
for reservoir location.


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


How to Check Power Steering Fluid You can check your fluid without taking the cap off. Just look at the reservoir. (cid:127) When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be between the HOT marks.


(cid:127) When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be between the COLD marks.


What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 394. Notice: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


304


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid If your vehicle has the low windshield washer fluid level warning light, it will come on when the fluid level is too low. See Low Washer Fluid Warning Light on page 175.


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282
for reservoir location.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer


fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.


(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only


three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in


your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


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Brakes Brake Fluid


The hydraulic clutch and brake master cylinder use the same reservoir. It is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282
for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system or the hydraulic clutch system. If it is, have that system fixed immediately, since a leak means that the brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.


306


So, it is not a good idea to top off the brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when the linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If your vehicle has too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system.


When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 166.


What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 394. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 358.


(cid:127)


307


Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 393.


308


Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, the brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so the brakes will adjust properly. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new


approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


309


Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down.


Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 310 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


310


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in


Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.


1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a


12-volt battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a


Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper


cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles.


Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


311


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find


the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 282 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


312


{CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect


it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


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8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery


and run the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead


battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


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Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from


the vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from


the vehicle with the good battery.


Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 320. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


Halogen Bulbs


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


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Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps


To replace the headlamp, turn signal, or parking lamp bulb, do the following:


A. Headlamp B. Turn Signal/Parking Lamp


1. Open the hood and locate the lamp assembly. 2. Remove the rubber cover and socket from the headlamp or turn signal/parking lamp.


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3. Release the retainer clip holding the bulb on the headlamp by pressing down and moving the metal retainer away from you. Turn the turn signal/parking lamp bulb socket counterclockwise to remove.


4. Pull the bulb out of the fixture. 5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.


Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To replace the center high-mounted stoplamp bulb, do the following: 1. Locate the bulb which is on the inside of the


liftgate/liftglass near the top.


2. Remove the two clips on both sides of the


cover and remove it.


3. Remove the two screws from the CHMSL


housing. Then remove the housing to expose the bulb.


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Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps


A. Stoplamp/Taillamp B. Turn Signal Lamp


4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and


pull it out of the lamp housing.


5. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 6. Reverse the previous steps to install a


new bulb.


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To replace the turn signal and/or stop/taillamp bulbs, do the following:


2. Turn the bulb socket


counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing.


1. Remove the storage compartment cover in the rear cargo area of the vehicle to access the bulbs.


3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Reverse the previous steps to install a


new bulb.


5. Reinstall the cover.


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Back-Up Lamps


Replacement Bulbs


The back-up lamp bulb is located in the bumper.


Exterior Lamp


Bulb Number


Back-Up Lamp CHMSL Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp Headlamp High/Low-Beam Rear Turn Signal Stoplamp/Taillamp


7440
921


1157NA


9003
7440
7443


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.


To replace the back-up lamp bulb, do the following:


1. Reach up under the rear fascia to locate


the back-up lamp housing.


2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and


pull it out of the lamp housing.


3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Reverse the previous steps to install a


new bulb.


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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” under At Least Twice a Year on page 387 for more information.


Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the


windshield.


2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper


assembly toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.


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