2004 Pontiac GTO Owners Manual

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taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. 5-17 To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws that hold the cover on. 2. Lift off the cover. 3. Check or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 4. Put the cover back on tightly. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at every oil change and replace at the ﬁrst oil change after 25,000 miles (40 000 km). How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. 5-18 Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change The ﬂuid level should be checked monthly, by looking at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. A good time to check your automatic transmission ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information on when to check and change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it helps to stop ﬂame if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. 5-19 To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold ﬂuid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for ﬁve minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the ﬂuid level be low during this cold check, you must check the ﬂuid hot before adding ﬂuid. Checking the ﬂuid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the ﬂuid level. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission ﬂuid level if you have been driving in the following conditions: • When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C) • At high speed for quite a while • In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather • While pulling a trailer 5-20 Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: • Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. • With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). • With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). • Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The automatic transmission dipstick is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the right side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Unclip the handle and remove the dipstick; wipe it clean with a clean rag or paper towel and re-insert it fully. Remove it again and read the ﬂuid level. 2. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the cross-hatched HOT area for a hot check. 3. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. Remember to always replace the dipstick and lock the handle down. 5-21 How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Add ﬂuid only after checking the transmission ﬂuid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. The level should never read over the HOT mark, so be careful not to add too much. It doesn’t take much ﬂuid, generally less than 0.6 pints (0.3 L). Don’t overﬁll. Notice: We recommend you use only ﬂuid labeled DEXRON® -III, because ﬂuid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by ﬂuid other than DEXRON® -III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. • After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check.” • When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way. Remember to always replace the dipstick and lock the handle down. • If ﬂuid has to be added often, there may be a problem or leak and you should see your vehicle dealer. 5-22 Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the ﬂuid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. Check the ﬂuid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your ﬁngers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps: 1. Remove the reverse light switch. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the switch hole. 3. If the ﬂuid level is good, install the switch and be sure it is fully seated. If the ﬂuid level is low, add more ﬂuid as described in the next steps. How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add ﬂuid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. 1. Remove the reverse light switch. 2. Add ﬂuid at the switch hole. Add only enough ﬂuid to bring the ﬂuid level up to the bottom of the switch hole. 3. Install the reverse light switch. Be sure the switch is fully seated. 5-23 Hydraulic Clutch The clutch ﬂuid level should be checked weekly. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. If the clutch ﬂuid requires constant ﬁlling up it could indicate a leak. Have the system inspected and repaired by your dealer. Adding ﬂuid won’t correct a leak. When to Check and What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine the proper ﬂuid. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-9 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. How to Check and Add Fluid To check the ﬂuid level, look at the markings on the reservoir. If the ﬂuid level is between the MIN and the MAX line, the ﬂuid level is correct. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. If the ﬂuid level is between these marks do not remove the cap, as the ﬂuid will quickly absorb moisture. If ﬂuid does need to be added, ﬁrst turn the vehicle off. Remove the cap and add the proper ﬂuid. Remember to replace the cap and clean up any spilled ﬂuid. 5-24 Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-28. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will do the following: • Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C) • Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C) • Protect against rust and corrosion • Help keep the proper engine temperature • Let the warning lights and gages work as they should Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-25 If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. If you use the proper coolant, you do not What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant. 5-26 Checking Coolant The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. The coolant level should be checked at least weekly, by looking at the level on the coolant reservoir when the engine is cold. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or slightly above the COLD FILL mark, at the center weld joint. The level rises when the engine is running and drops when the engine cools down. If the level falls below the weld joint, the coolant should be added to a little over the mark. Do not overﬁll, as coolant requires space to expand when warmed up. If the Low Coolant message on the trip computer display comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant. You should check the level as soon as possible. You may have to check the coolant level when it is hot. See Engine Overheating on page 5-28. 5-27 Engine Overheating Immediate action is required if your engine overheats. This is indicated by the coolant temperature gage and the Engine Temp Hot message on the trip computer display. Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-28. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When the level is correct, replace the cap and turn clockwise until secure. 5-28 If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with an Engine Temp Hot message can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you do the following: • Climb a long hill on a hot day • Stop after high-speed driving • Idle for long periods in traffic • Tow a trailer {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. 5-29 3. Turn off your air conditioning and turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the window as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, with the parking brake applied, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle while you get out and check that the cooling fan is working. 2. If the fan is working and the temperature gauge needle has not returned to its normal position within a few minutes, stop the engine and remove the ignition key. Look for leaks at the radiator hoses and connections, heater hoses and connections, radiator, and water pump. Be careful when checking these areas as they will probably still be hot. If you ﬁnd a major leak or other problems that may have caused the engine to overheat, do not run the engine until these problems have been corrected. If you do not ﬁnd anything wrong, you should check the engine coolant level. See Engine Coolant on page 5-25. You should also check the air intake area below the front bumper to ensure that it is clear of leaves and road grime. 5-30 Cooling System {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, you’ll see the electric engine cooling fan (A) and the engine coolant reservoir (B). 5-31 If you operate the engine without coolant Notice: or fail to maintain the cooling system properly, you could damage the engine. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always follow the maintenance schedule in this manual for maintaining your cooling system. See Cooling System on page 5-31 for more information. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. The coolant level should be at or above the COLD FILL mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it isn’t, your vehicle needs service. 5-32 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at or above the COLD FILL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-33 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose. 2. Keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 5-34 3. Then ﬁll the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture to the COLD FILL mark. 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the COLD FILL mark, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the mark. 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. See your dealer, if necessary. 5-35 Power Steering Fluid When to Check Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. 5-36 How to Check Power Steering Fluid The ﬂuid level should be checked after the vehicle has been driven for at least 20 minutes, so that the ﬂuid is warm. A convenient time is when stopping for gas. The cold level check should only be used after the engine has not been running for at least ﬁve hours. However, the hot level check is always recommended. The ﬂuid level can be viewed through the reservoir. The level markings are next to the ﬂuid window. When the ﬂuid is cold the level should be between the COLD MIN and MAX marks; when the vehicle has been driven for awhile and the ﬂuid is hot the level should be between the HOT MIN and MAX marks. If ﬂuid must be added, undo the cap counterclockwise to the stop; then the cap can be lifted off. Do not overﬁll and remember to replace the cap tightly. If you often need to add ﬂuid, you should see your dealer. Remember to secure the cap when the level is correct and clean up any spillage. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap and add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. Make sure the cap is secured after ﬁlling. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. 5-37 (cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-4 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. 5-38 So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section. When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-27. Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake ﬂuid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake ﬂuid reservoir. The ﬂuid level should be between the MIN and MAX marks on the reservoir. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is between the MIN and MAX marks. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-4 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-78. 5-39 (cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. 5-40 Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-42 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. 5-41 Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to or ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. 5-42 Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. Remove any battery covers. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in Neutral before setting the parking brake. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5-43 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle with the dead battery has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 5-44 Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that has the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service. Replace any battery covers. If the jumper cables are removed in the Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. 5-45 To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery 5-46 Bulb Replacement For the type of bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-50. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. Headlamps To gain access if replacing a front bulb on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, do the following: 1. Undo the battery clamp. 2. Remove the battery retaining plate and slide the battery out of the way toward the rear of the vehicle. 3. If your vehicle is equipped with a larger battery, the battery terminals must be disconnected and the battery completely removed from the vehicle. After replacing the bulb, remember to replace and connect the battery. To gain access if replacing a front bulb on the driver’s side of the vehicle, do the following: 1. Remove the four screws in the radiator cover. 2. Remove the radiator cover. A hole is provided in the air intake duct through which the bulbs can be accessed. 5-47 After replacing the bulbs, remember to reinstall the radiator cover and the four screws. 1. Open the hood. Access the bulbs by following the previous instructions. 4. Remove the old bulb by twisting the bulb counterclockwise. 2. Turn the dust caps counterclockwise and remove from the rear of the headlamp assembly to gain access to the bulb. 3. Remove the wiring harness connector by squeezing the two tabs on the connector and pulling the connector down. 5-48 5. Carefully without touching it, install the new bulb by reversing Steps 1 through 4. 6. Check the light operation. Rear Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-Up Lamps 1. Open the trunk. Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps 1. Open the hood. To access the bulbs, see Headlamps on page 5-47. 2. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the headlamp assembly. 3. Turn the bulb holder counterclockwise and remove. 4. Lightly press the bulb and twist counterclockwise out of the holder. 5. Insert the new bulb and install the bulb holder. The bulb should be colored orange. 6. Connect the wiring harness connector. 7. See Headlamps on page 5-47 to replace bulb assembly. 8. Check light operation. 2. Remove the two screws that attach the taillamp assembly to the vehicle. 3. Pull the assembly sideways out from the panel so that the locating pegs on the side of the lamp assembly snap free from the clips. 5-49 4. While holding the assembly, turn the appropriate bulb holder counterclockwise to release it from the housing. 5. Remove the bulb from the holder by pushing it in and turning it counterclockwise. The turn signal bulb must have amber colored glass. 6. Install the new bulb into the bulb holder by pushing it into the holder and turning it clockwise. 7. Insert the new bulb into the bulb holder and install the bulb holder into the lamp housing, ensuring that the holder locks securely into place. 8. Ensure that the lamp assembly clips are seated correctly. Fit the housing to the body, ensuring that the locating pegs snap into the clips and install and tighten the attaching nuts to the correct torque. 9. Check the light operation. 5-50 Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Back-up Lamp Front Sidemarker Lamp Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp Headlamps High-Beam Low-Beam Bulb Number 1156 168 1157NA H9 H11 1156NA 1157 Rear Turn Signal Stop/Taillamp For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-9 for more information. To replace the wiper blade assembly: 1. Lift the wiper up from the windshield and set into the vertically-locked position. 2. Press the tab that holds the wiper blade to the arm. 3. Slide the blade down and off the arm. 4. Slide in the new blade and snap into place. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. If your vehicle has low-proﬁle tires, they Notice: are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard proﬁle tires. Tire and or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes or sharp edged objects or when sliding into a curb. Your GM warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inﬂation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes and other road hazards. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-51 Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. High performance tires, like the original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement and may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. If you choose to use winter tires: • Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all four wheel positions. • Use only radial ply tires of the same size as your original equipment tires. See your Pontiac dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-65. Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger car tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. 5-52 Passenger Car Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) Department of Transportation (DOT): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (E) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-66. (F) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. 5-53 (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-77 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-70. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-77 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter “T” as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. Compact Spare Tire Example 5-54 Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger car tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States metric tire sizing system uses the letter “P” to designate a passenger vehicle tire. The European metric tire sizing system does not use the letter “P” to designate a passenger vehicle tire. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is “70,” as shown in item “C” of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70% as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D” means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and the speed rating of a tire. The load range represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from “A” to “Z”. 5-55 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles, less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa), before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. There are 6.9 kPa’s to one psi. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. 5-56 Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum cold inﬂation pressure to which a tire may be inﬂated. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of a asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand and or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. Radial Ply tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 2/32 inch of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64. Tread Width: The width of the tire’s tread. 5-57 UTQGS: Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards, a tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-66. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing original equipment tire size and the recommended cold inﬂation pressure. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that underinﬂation or overinﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (underinﬂation), you can get the following: Too much ﬂexing Too much heat Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards 5-58 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle’s center pillar, below the driver’s door latch. This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and their recommended cold tire inﬂation pressures. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For more information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. When driving with less than the maximum load capacity allowed for your vehicle, you can set tire inﬂation pressure to the recommended amounts shown in the following chart. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. Recommended Cold Tire Inﬂation Tire Size Occupant and Cargo Weight: 470 lbs. (210 kg) or Less Occupant and Cargo Weight: Up to 740 lbs. (330 kg) (Vehicle Capacity Weight) 245/45ZR17 95W 235/40ZR18 91W T145/70R17 96M (Compact Spare) Front Tires 30 psi (210 kPa) 33 psi (230 kPa) Rear Tires 30 psi (210 kPa) 33 psi (230 kPa) Front Tires 35 psi (240 kPa) 33 psi (230 kPa) Rear Tires 35 psi (240 kPa) 39 psi (270 kPa) 60 psi (420 kPa) 60 psi (420 kPa) 60 psi (420 kPa) 60 psi (420 kPa) 5-59 When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information about your vehicle’s compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-77. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they’re underinﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. 5-60 High Speed Operation {CAUTION: Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving, causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such, that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition and set to the correct cold tire inﬂation pressure for the vehicle load. Vehicles equipped with 245/45ZR17 95W size tires, do not require additional air pressure for high-speed operation. If your vehicle has 235/40ZR18 91W size tires, use the following chart to determine the cold tire inﬂation pressure when operating your vehicle under high-speed conditions. Tire Size: 235/40ZR18 91W Recommended Cold Tire Inﬂation Pressure for High Speed Operation Occupant and Cargo Weight: 470 lbs. (210 kg) or less Occupant and Cargo Weight: Up to 740 lbs. (330 kg) (Vehicle Capacity Weight) Front Tires 36 psi (250 kPa) Rear Tires Front Tires Rear Tires 36 psi (250 kPa) 39 psi (270 kPa) 44 psi (300 kPa) When you end high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold inﬂation pressure shown on the tire and loading information label. 5-61 Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-68 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. When rotating non-directional tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. 5-62 If your vehicle has 235/40ZR18 tires, they must roll in a certain direction for the best overall performance. The direction is shown by an arrow on the tire sidewall. Because these tires are uni-directional, they should be rotated as shown here. These tires should only be moved from front to rear and rear to front on the same side of the vehicle. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-92. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index. 5-63 You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: • You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. • You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. • The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. • The tire has a bump, bulge or split. • The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. 5-64 Buying New Tires To ﬁnd out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire and Loading Information label. For more information about this label and where to ﬁnd it, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. Make sure the replacements are the same size, load capacity, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires. {CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the index. 5-65 Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum selection width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the Unites States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (11⁄2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction — AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. 5-66 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Temperature — A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. 5-67 Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle. {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-71 for more information. 5-68 Used Replacement Wheels Tire Chains {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. Don’t use tire chains. There’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do ﬁnd traction devices that will ﬁt, install them on the rear tires. 5-69 If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. {CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a ﬂat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a ﬂat tire. If a tire goes ﬂat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a ﬂat tire safely. 5-70 CAUTION: (Continued) Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle. Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning ﬂashers. {CAUTION: Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised. 4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the vehicle. CAUTION: (Continued) The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. 5-71 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk. The temporary spare wheel is stored in a compartment under the trunk ﬂoor. 1. Open the trunk and remove the spare wheel cover. The spare wheel cover has a vehicle jacking label on it showing the instructions that should be followed. 2. Turn the wing nut on the spare tire counterclockwise and remove it. Then lift the spare tire out of the vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-77 later in this section for more information about the compact spare. 5-72 3. Remove the jack, wheel wrench, and nut cap removal tool from storage. Your vehicle’s jack, wheel wrench, and nut cap removal tool are stored in a container in the ﬂoor, under the spare tire. Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire Remove the wheel nut caps as follows: 1. Remove each wheel nut cap individually with the wheel nut cap tool provided. Insert the nut cap tool into the nut cavity, squeeze the tool to grasp the nut cap, and pull out to remove it. Store the nut caps in a clean area to avoid dirt getting into them. If the nut caps are hard to remove, use the tip of the wheel wrench to remove the nut caps. 2. Then use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet. 3. Fit the jack handle onto the jack by sliding the open end of the handle over the nut end of the jack. Position the jack and raise the jack head until it ﬁts ﬁrmly into notches A and B in the vehicle’s frame closest to the tire being changed. Put the compact spare tire near you. 5-73 {CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. {CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. 5-74 4. Raise the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to ﬁt underneath the wheel well. The jack handle must be unfolded to a right angle before it is used. 5. Remove all of the wheel nuts. 6. Remove the ﬂat tire. 7. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces, and spare wheel. {CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident. 8. Install the compact spare tire. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. 9. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. 5-75 CAUTION: (Continued) Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See “Capacities and Speciﬁcations” in the Index for wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See “Capacities and Speciﬁcations” in the index for the wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. Notice: Wheel covers will not ﬁt on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare. 10. Lower the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely. 11. Tighten the wheel nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence, as shown. {CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-76 Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inﬂated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inﬂation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inﬂated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can ﬁnish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again. Storing the Flat Tire and Tools {CAUTION: Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place. Store the tools in the same way that they were removed. Place the ﬂat tire in the temporary spare tire well in the compartment under the trunk ﬂoor. Then place the spare tire cover over the ﬂat tire. Storing the Spare Tire and Tools The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” following in this section. See the storage instructions label to replace your compact spare into your trunk properly. 5-77 Notice: When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t ﬁt. Keep your compact spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains won’t ﬁt your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare. Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into ﬂames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you are cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: • Gasoline • Benzene • Naphtha • Carbon Tetrachloride • Acetone • Paint Thinner • Turpentine • Lacquer Thinner • Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous — some more than others — and they can all damage your vehicle, too. 5-78 Do not use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: • Alcohol • Laundry Soap • Bleach • Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-85. Here are some cleaning tips: • Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. • Clean up stains as soon as you can — before they set. • Carefully scrape off any excess stain. • Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. • If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set. Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. 3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Do not saturate the material and do not rub it roughly. 5. As soon as you have cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove any excess cleaner. 6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened towel or cloth. 7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry. 5-79 Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water. 2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaning instructions described earlier. 3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water and baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water. 4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry completely. 3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions described earlier. Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. • Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do this more than once. • Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you do not get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl cleaner. See your dealer for this product. Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. • For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. • Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. • Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the ﬁnish, it can harm the leather. 5-80 Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel

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2004 Pontiac GTO Owners Manual