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LOAD CD Z: Press the LOAD button to load CDs into the CD player. This CD player will hold up to six CDs. To insert one CD, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition on. 2. Press and release the LOAD button. 3. Wait for INSERT CD to appear on the display, the light located to the left of the slot to flash, and for the radio to produce a beep, if beeps are turned on. See “Confirmation Beeps” later in this section for information about turning beeps on and off.


4. Load a CD. Insert the CD partway into the slot,


label side up. The player will pull the CD in.


When a CD is inserted, the CD number will appear in the CD symbol on the display. If you select an equalization setting for your CD, it will be activated each time you play a CD. Whether the radio is on or off, the CD will begin to play automatically. To insert multiple CDs, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition on. 2. Press and hold the LOAD button for two seconds.


3. Wait for LOAD ALL to appear on the display, the light located to the left of the slot to flash, and for the radio to produce a beep, if beeps are turned on. See “Confirmation Beeps” later in this section for information about turning beeps on and off.


4. Once the light stops flashing and turns green, load a CD. Insert the CD partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull the CD in. Once the CD is loaded, the light will begin flashing again. Once the light stops flashing and turns green, you can load another CD. The CD player takes up to six CDs. Do not try to load more than six.


To load more than one CD but less than six, complete Steps 1 through 3. When you have finished loading CDs, with the radio on or off, press the EJECT button to cancel the loading function. The radio will begin to play the last CD loaded. When a CD is inserted, the CD number will appear in the CD symbol on the display. If more than one CD has been loaded, a number for each CD will be displayed. If you select an equalization setting for your CD, it will be activated each time you play a CD.


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Whether the radio is on or off, the last CD loaded will begin to play automatically. As each new track starts to play, the track number will appear on the display. For every CD loaded, a number will appear on the display. To play a specific CD, press the numbered pushbutton that corresponds to the CD you want to play. The CD number that is playing will flash, and the track number will appear. If an error appears on the display, see “CD Messages” later in this section.


TRACK SCAN: Press this button to listen to the first 10 seconds of each track on the CD that is playing. Press this button again to stop scanning.


TRACK REPEAT: Press this button to repeat the track that is playing. Press this button again to turn off repeat play.


TRACK RANDOM: Press this button to listen to the tracks, on the CD that is playing, in random, rather than sequential order. Press this button again to turn off random play.


CD SCAN: If more than one CD is loaded, press this button to listen to the first 10 seconds of the first track on each CD that is loaded. Press this button again to stop scanning.


CD REPEAT: If more than one CD is loaded, press this button to repeat the CD that is currently playing. Press this button again to turn off repeat play.


CD RANDOM: If more than one CD is loaded, press this button to play all of the CDs in random, rather than sequential order. Press this button again to turn off random play.


II (Pause): Press this button to pause a CD. PAUSE or CD PAUSED will appear on the display. Press this button again to play the CD.


FM AM: Press this button to listen to the radio when a CD(s) is playing.


EQ (Equalization): Press EQ to select the desired equalization setting while playing a CD. The equalization will be automatically set whenever you play a CD. For more information on EQ, see “EQ” listed previously in this section. g SEEK TRACK l: Press the left arrow to go to the start of the current track, if more than 10 seconds have passed. Press the right arrow to go to the next track. If you press either arrow more than once, the player will continue moving backward or forward through the CD.


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r TUNE CD [: When more than one CD is loaded, press the left or right arrow to go to the previous or next CD loaded.


FR FF (Fast Reverse/ Fast Forward): Press and hold FR to reverse quickly within a track. Press and hold FF to advance quickly within a track. You will hear sound at a reduced volume. Release the button to play the passage. The elapsed time of the track will appear on the display.


EJECT: Press this button to eject a single CD or multiple CDs.


To eject the CD that is currently playing, press and release this button. REMOVE CD will appear on the display, the light located to the left of the slot will flash, and the radio will produce a beep, if beeps are turned on. See “Confirmation Beeps” later in this section for information about turning beeps on and off. You can now remove the CD. Press the LOAD button to cancel the eject function.


To eject multiple CDs, press and hold this button for two seconds. EJECTING ALL will appear on the display, the light located to the left of the slot will flash, and the radio will produce a beep, if beeps are turned on. See “Confirmation Beeps” later in this section for information about turning beeps on and off. You can now remove the CD. Press the LOAD button to cancel the eject function.


If the CD is not removed, after 25 seconds, the CD will be automatically pulled back into the player. If you try to push the CD back into the player before the 25 second time period is complete, the player will sense an error and will try to eject the CD several times before stopping.


Do not repeatedly press the EJECT button to eject a CD after you have tried to push it in manually. The player’s 25-second eject timer will reset at each press of eject, which will cause the player to not eject the CD until the 25-second time period has elapsed.


Once the player stops and the CD is ejected, remove the CD. After removing the CD, press the ON OFF button off and then on again. This will clear the CD-sensing feature and enable CDs to be loaded into the player again.


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CD Messages


CD ERROR PLAY: The CD cannot be read. The CD is dirty, scratched, wet, or upside down.


CD ERROR MECH (Mechanism): If this message appears on the display, it could be for one of the following reasons: • The CD is stuck in the player and cannot be


played, loaded, or ejected.


• It is very hot. When the temperature returns to


normal, the CD should play.


• You are driving on a very rough road. When the


road becomes smoother, the CD should play.


• The air is very humid. If so, wait about an hour and


try again.


• There may have been a problem while burning


the CD.


• The label may be caught in the CD player. If the CD is not playing correctly for any other reason, try a known good CD. If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error cannot be corrected, contact your dealer. If your radio displays an error message, write it down and provide it to your dealer when reporting the problem.


Options Menu The following features can be adjusted through the vehicle’s options menu located in the instrument panel cluster in the trip computer display window. Confirmation Beeps Beeps are used to confirm various actions of the radio such as storing a preset. The beeps can be turned on or off using the options menu. See “Options Menu Adjustment” later in this section to adjust the confirmation beeps.


All Beeps On: The radio will make a beep sound when storing radio stations, when it is time to insert or remove a CD from the CD changer, or to confirm that the LOAD ALL or EJECT ALL functions have started.


CD Beeps Only: The radio will make a beep sound when it is time to insert or remove a CD from the CD changer or to confirm that the LOAD ALL or EJECT ALL functions have started.


Beeps Off: The radio will not produce any beeps.


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Speed Dependent Volume (SDV) With SDV, your audio system adjusts automatically to make up for road or wind noise as you drive. This feature will never completely compensate for driving noise. There are other factors such as road surface, wind noise, windows open, and engine speed that may alter the interior noise for any given road speed. You can select compensation rates between 0 (off) and 5 (maximum compensation) in the options menu. See “Options Menu Adjustment” later in this section to adjust SDV. Dynamic Distortion Limiting (DDL) Your radio has a feature that limits the amount of amplifier distortion that you can hear. When this feature is turned on, it continuously monitors the quality of the signal to the speakers. When the signal distortion exceeds the preset limits the radio will automatically limit or reduce the volume until the distortion is minimized. Under some circumstances, distortion may be heard for a very short period of time until the system has taken the necessary steps to limit it. The main source of distortion in music is the low frequency bass caused by drums or large instruments. Music that features very strong bass may trigger the distortion limiting system and the system will then reduce the volume to minimize the distortion.


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Increasing the bass control or the EQ boost may also result in a reduced volume level due to the emphasized bass. See “Setting the Tone (Bass/Treble)” previously in this section. The DDL can be turned off so that the radio will deliver a higher volume level, but distortion will also be increased. See “Options Menu Adjustment” later in this section to adjust DDL. Options Menu Adjustment Confirmation beeps, SDV, and DDL can all be adjusted by doing the following: 1. Turn off the radio by pressing the OFF button. 2. Press the ON button and pushbutton 1 at the same


time until Options Menu appears on the display.


3. Push the AUDIO knob until the correct option


appears on the display.


4. Turn the AUDIO knob to adjust the setting of the


option being displayed.


5. Push the AUDIO knob to select another option or


press the OFF button to exit the options menu. Your selection will be saved. If no buttons are pressed or turned for eight seconds, the radio will automatically exit the menu and the radio will turn on.


Master Reset Your radio has a reset feature that allows you to return certain settings back to the factory default settings. Use this feature when adjustments have been made that affect the sound quality or operation of the radio and you are unsure of how to return to the original settings. This master reset feature will reset the following: • Bass, Treble, Fade, and Balance • Confirmation beeps to on • SDV to setting 2
• DDL to on • EQ to off. To perform the master reset, do the following: 1. Turn off the radio by pressing the OFF button. 2. Press the ON button and pushbutton 4 at the same


time for about two seconds. After the radio has finished resetting, the radio will turn on with the original settings and no message will appear on the display.


Mobile Telephone Your radio includes a telephone adapter. The phone adapter and the radio are connected. If a mobile phone hands-free kit with the correct features, such as mute line and wiring for a separate speaker has been connected to it, the sound of the radio or CD will be muted when the phone rings, the voice of the caller will then be heard through the vehicle’s speakers, and VOICE ON will appear on the display. When the call ends, the radio or CD will come back on. If the radio is off, it will turn on for a phone call if the vehicle’s ignition is in ON or ACCESSORY. If a call is in progress when the vehicle is turned off, the radio will remain on until the call is completed. You can adjust the volume, bass, treble, fade, and balance when a phone call is in progress without affecting the radio settings.


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Security Release Procedure To type in your PIN code, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY. 2. Turn the radio on. CODE_ _ _ _ will appear on the


display.


3. Use the preset buttons to enter the PIN code. If the wrong PIN code is entered, the radio will display CODE ERR WAIT. After a few seconds, the radio will display CODE 2_ _ _ _, indicating that this is the second attempt. The correct code should now be entered. After three attempts, the radio will display LOCK OUT 1 HR. After 1 hour, the radio will allow another three attempts to enter the PIN.


Theft-Deterrent Feature Your radio has an electronically coded security system. The system recognizes the vehicle which your radio has been installed. If the radio is kept in the vehicle, the PIN should not be required, even if the battery or the radio has been removed and reinstalled. If the link between your vehicle and the radio is disrupted, the radio will prompt you for a 4-digit PIN code to be entered. The PIN is supplied on your security card. As the pin is the only means of enabling operation of the radio, place the security card in a safe place. Do not leave the security card in your glovebox. The PIN should also be written down and kept with other important documents. If your security card is lost and the PIN is not recorded, the PIN can be requested from your dealer, after supplying proof of ownership. There may be a charge for this service. When the radio and vehicle are turned off, the blinking red light indicates that your radio is armed.


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Audio Steering Wheel Controls If your vehicle has this feature, you can control certain radio functions using the buttons on your steering wheel.


MODE: Press this button to switch between FM1, FM2, AM, or CD.


Q NEXT: Press this button to go to the next radio station and stay there.


If a CD is playing, press and release this button to advance to the next track. If more than one CD is loaded, press and hold this button to take you to the next CD. NEXT R: Press this button to go to the previous radio station and stay there.


If a CD is playing, press and release this button to go to the previous track. If more than one CD is loaded, press and hold this button to take you to the previous CD.


MUTE: Press this button to silence the system. Press it again, or any other radio button, to turn on the sound. Q VOL (Volume): Press this button to increase the volume. VOL R (Volume): Press this button to decrease the volume.


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Radio Reception AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise. FM FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go.


Care of Your CDs Handle CDs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a CD is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the side without writing when handling CDs. Pick up CDs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge.


Care of Your CD Player The use of CD lens cleaners for CD players is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism.


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Backglass Antenna The AM-FM antenna is integrated with the rear window defogger, located in the rear window. Be sure that the inside surface of the rear window is not scratched and that the lines on the glass are not damaged. If the inside surface is damaged, it could interfere with radio reception. Also, for proper radio reception, the antenna connector at the top-center of the rear window needs to be properly attached to the post on the glass. Notice: Using a razor blade or sharp object to clear the inside rear window may damage the rear window antenna and/or the rear window defogger. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not clear the inside rear window with sharp objects. Notice: Do not apply aftermarket glass tinting with metallic film. The metallic film in some tinting materials will interfere with or distort the incoming radio reception. Any damage caused to your backglass antenna due to metallic tinting materials will not be covered by your warranty.


Because this antenna is built into your rear window, there is a reduced risk of damage caused by car washes and vandals. If you choose to add a cellular telephone to your vehicle, and the antenna needs to be attached to the glass, be sure that you do not damage the grid lines for the AM-FM antenna. There is enough space between the lines to attach a cellular telephone antenna without interfering with radio reception. Do not apply aftermarket glass tinting to the back glass. The metallic film in some tinting materials will interfere with or distort the incoming radio reception. Care must be taken when cleaning the rear window because it breaks in the resistive material heating element and will adversely affect radio and defogger performance. See your dealer for details.


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✍ NOTES


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Section 4


Driving Your Vehicle


Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle ..........4-2
Defensive Driving ...........................................4-2
Drunken Driving .............................................4-2
Control of a Vehicle ........................................4-5
Braking .........................................................4-5
Traction Control System (TCS) .........................4-8
Steering ........................................................4-9
Off-Road Recovery .......................................4-11
Passing .......................................................4-12
Loss of Control .............................................4-13
Driving at Night ............................................4-15
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads ..................4-16
City Driving ..................................................4-19


Freeway Driving ...........................................4-20
Before Leaving on a Long Trip .......................4-21
Highway Hypnosis ........................................4-22
Hill and Mountain Roads ................................4-22
Winter Driving ..............................................4-24
If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice


or Snow ...................................................4-28
Towing ..........................................................4-29
Towing Your Vehicle .....................................4-29
Recreational Vehicle Towing ...........................4-30
Loading Your Vehicle ....................................4-30
Towing a Trailer ...........................................4-35


4-1


Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle


Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1-6. Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It is the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task — such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on


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the floor — makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.


Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It is the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: • Judgment • Muscular Coordination • Vision • Attentiveness. Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 16,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.


Many adults — by some estimates, nearly half the adult population — choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if someone plans to drive? It is a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things: • The amount of alcohol consumed • The drinker’s body weight • The amount of food that is consumed before and


during drinking


• The length of time it has taken the drinker to


consume the alcohol.


According to the American Medical Association, a 180 lb (82 kg) person who drinks three 12 ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4 ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of liquors like whiskey, gin or vodka.


It is the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight will when each has the same number of drinks.


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The law in an increasing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, sets the legal limit at 0.08 percent. In some other countries, the limit is even lower. For example, it is 0.05 percent in both France and Germany. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we have seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater! The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I will be careful” is not the right answer. What if there is an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into


the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There is something else about drinking and driving that many people do not know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.


{CAUTION:


Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking. Please do not drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.


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Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.


Sometimes, as when you are driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle. Also see Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-8.


Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That is reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it is pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.


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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you are driving, brake normally but do not pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.


Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.


If there is a problem with the anti-lock brake system, this warning light will stay on. See Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-28.


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Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel. The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.


As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: Anti-lock does not change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes.


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You may feel or hear the system working, but this is normal. The TCS is automatically turned on whenever the ignition is turned from off to on. A Low Traction message is displayed on the trip computer, indicating traction control is limiting wheel spin, until the MODE button on the trip computer is pressed. The message then goes back to the original trip computer display with a small low traction symbol on the left. The symbol will remain as long as the low traction situation exists. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the TCS on. But you can turn the system off if you prefer.


To turn the system off, press the T/C button. On manual transmission vehicles the button is located on the driver’s side of the center console. On automatic transmission vehicles the button is located on the passenger’s side of the shift lever.


Using Anti-Lock Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may hear the anti-lock pump or motor operate, and feel the brake pedal pulsate, but this is normal. Braking in Emergencies With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.


Traction Control System (TCS) Your vehicle has a Traction Control System (TCS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the rear wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system reduces engine power and applies the brakes, as necessary. Traction control helps you to keep control of the vehicle and reminds you to match your speed to the road conditions. In addition, traction control when activated, provides feedback to the driver by pulsing the accelerator pedal.


4-8


When you turn the system off, a Traction Ctrl Off message is displayed on the trip computer. After two seconds, the display goes back to the original trip computer display with a small TRAC OFF icon on the right. If the Traction Ctrl Off message does not display when the button is pressed, or if it comes on during driving, a problem is indicated in the system and traction control is no longer operational. You should contact your dealer for service. Pressing the T/C button again or the next time the ignition is turned on, will turn the system back on. The Traction Ctrl On message is displayed on the trip computer. After two seconds, the display goes back to the original trip computer display. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.


Steering Tips Driving on Curves It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here is why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you will understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control systems — steering and braking — have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking can demand too much of those places. You can lose control.


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The same thing can happen if you are steering through a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems — steering and acceleration — can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-8. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you will want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.


Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can not; there is not room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes — but, unless you have anti-lock, not enough to lock your wheels. See Braking on page 4-5. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.


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Off-Road Recovery You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.


An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.


If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.


4-11


Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents — the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: • “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.


• Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it is all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.


4-12


• Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to


pass while you are awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you are following a larger vehicle. Also, you will not have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.


• When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,


start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and do not get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.


• If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle,


wait your turn. But take care that someone is not trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.


Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.


• Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)


• Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on


two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.


• Do not overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.


Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.


• If you are being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.


4-13


Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If your traction control system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.


If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.


4-14


Driving at Night


Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.


Here are some tips on night driving. • Drive defensively. • Do not drink and drive. • Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the


glare from headlamps behind you.


• Since you can not see as well, you may need to


slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.


• Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.


• In remote areas, watch for animals. • If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place


and rest.


No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.


4-15


You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it.


4-16


Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads


Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can not stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires do not have much tread left, you will get even less traction. It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.


The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It is wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.


Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can not, try to slow down before you hit them.


{CAUTION:


Wet brakes can cause accidents. They will not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.


4-17


Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can not avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.


Driving Through Flowing Water


{CAUTION:


Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


Some Other Rainy Weather Tips • Besides slowing down, allow some extra following


distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.


• Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires


on page 5-51.


4-18


City Driving


Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: • Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.


• Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 4-20.


• Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.


One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.


4-19


Freeway Driving


Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.


4-20


At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit.


The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.


Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They will be ready and willing to help if you need it.


Here are some things you can check before a trip: • Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?


Are all windows clean inside and outside?


• Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? • Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked


all levels?


• Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? • Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,


trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?


• Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook


along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?


• Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?


4-21


Hill and Mountain Roads


Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.


Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: • Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a


comfortably cool interior.


• Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently.


• If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest,


service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.


4-22


If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. • Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.


• Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.


{CAUTION:


If you do not shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.


{CAUTION:


Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.


• Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down


to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.


• Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.


• As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There


could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.


• You may see highway signs on mountains that


warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.


4-23


Winter Driving


Here are some tips for winter driving: • Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. • You may want to put winter emergency supplies in


your trunk.


Also see Tires on page 5-51.


Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.


4-24


Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.


What is the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow — drive with caution. Keep your traction control system on. It improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has this system, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-8. Also see “Winter Tires” under Tires on page 5-51.


4-25


Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Braking on page 4-5. • Allow greater following distance on any


slippery road.


• Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine


until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can not reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.


4-26


If You Are Caught in a Blizzard


If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: • Turn on your hazard flashers. • Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that


you have been stopped by the snow.


• Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.


If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.


You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.


{CAUTION:


Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can not see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.


4-27


{CAUTION:


If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-69.


Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.


If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.


4-28


Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn the system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-8. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. For a manual transmission, shift slowly between either FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), allowing the wheels to stop before shifting into gear. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-29.


Towing


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


4-29


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing”, which is towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, and “dolly towing” which is towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”. Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with any of its wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, see “Towing Your Vehicle” earlier in this section.


Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification label.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


4-30


Tire and Loading Information Label


A. Vehicle Capacity Weight


The Tire and Loading Information label shows the seating capacity and the total weight your vehicle can properly carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight. The Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar, near the driver’s door latch. The Tire and Loading Information label also gives you the size and recommended inflation pressure for the factory-installed, original equipment tires on your vehicle at the maximum vehicle capacity weight. For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-51 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle; see “Certification Label” later in this section.


4-31


Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of


occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX pounds” on your vehicle placard.


2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and


passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and


passengers from XXX kilograms or XXX pounds.


4. The resulting figure equals the available amount of


cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).


5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from


your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-35 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.


4-32


Example 1


Loading Your Vehicle


Item


Description


Total


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


Example 2


Loading Your Vehicle


Example 3


Loading Your Vehicle


Item


Description


Total


Item


Description


Total


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


750 lbs (340 kg)


250 lbs (113 kg)


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


0 lbs (0 kg)


Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.


4-33


The Certification label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Certification Label


4-34


{CAUTION:


Towing a Trailer Your vehicle is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer.


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:127) Put things in the rear area of your vehicle.


Try to spread the weight evenly. If you have fold-down rear seats, you will find four anchors on the back wall of your trunk. You can use these anchors to tie down lighter loads. They are not strong enough for heavy things, however, so put them as far forward as you can in the trunk or rear area.


(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,


inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint


in your vehicle.


(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down unless


you need to.


4-35


✍ NOTES


4-36


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of


Your Vehicle ..............................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling Your Tank ............................................5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .......................5-9
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-13
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-18
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-19
Manual Transmission Fluid .............................5-23
Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-24
Engine Coolant .............................................5-25
Engine Overheating .......................................5-28
Cooling System ............................................5-31
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-36


Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-37
Brakes ........................................................5-38
Battery ........................................................5-41
Jump Starting ...............................................5-42
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-47
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-47
Headlamps ..................................................5-47
Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps ..............5-49
Rear Turn Signal, Stoplamps and


Back-Up Lamps ........................................5-49
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-50
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-50
Tires ..............................................................5-51
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-58
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-62
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-64
Buying New Tires .........................................5-65
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-66
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-67
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-68
Tire Chains ..................................................5-69
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-70
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-71
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-77


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Appearance Care ............................................5-78
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-79
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-81
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-81
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle ..............5-82
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-84
Finish Damage .............................................5-84
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-84
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-84
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-85


Vehicle Identification ......................................5-86
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-86
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-86
Electrical System ............................................5-87
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-87
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-87
Capacities and Specifications ..........................5-92


5-2


Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


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{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and


other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-11. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-52. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-17.


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Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle.


Gasoline Octane Use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 91 or higher for best performance. You may also use middle grade or regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration may be slightly reduced. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine.


Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.


In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.


Canada Only


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California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-29 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations.


General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.


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Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


Filling Your Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


The fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger’s side of your vehicle.


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The fuel release button is located on the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. Push the button to release the fuel door.


{CAUTION:


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.


Be careful not to spill gasoline. Don’t top off or overfill your tank, and wait a few seconds after you’ve finished pumping before you remove the nozzle. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-82.


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When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-29.


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-29.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


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Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


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Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the handle located


under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on


the secondary hood release.


3. After you have partially lifted the hood, gas struts


will automatically take over to lift and hold the hood in the fully open position.


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and push firmly back into place.


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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the engine, you’ll see the following:


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A. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See “Engine


Compartment Fuse Block” under Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-87.


B. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield


Washer Fluid on page 5-37.


C. Battery. See Battery on page 5-41. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See Engine Oil on page 5-13. E. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See Engine Oil on page 5-13. F. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If Equipped).


See Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-19.


G. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-36.


H. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See Brakes on page 5-38. I. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped). See


Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-24.


J. Engine Coolant Reservoir. See Engine Coolant on


page 5-25.


K. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.


Engine Oil If the Check Oil message appears on the trip computer display, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see Oil Pressure Light on page 3-32. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


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See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-92. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: • GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


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• SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, if it is going to be 0°F (–18°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available, you may use SAE 10W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


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Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life System) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A Service Engine Oil message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


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How to Reset the Service Engine Oil message The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a Service Engine Oil message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, reset the system by performing the following steps: 1. With the engine off, turn the ignition key to ON. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly


two times within five seconds.


3. Turn the key to LOCK.


If the Service Engine Oil message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by

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