2006 Pontiac Grand PRIX Owners Manual

Transaxle Fluid A good time to check the automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

(cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.

5-23

(cid:127) 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the crosshatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine

running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the

shift lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The transaxle fluid dipstick handle has this symbol on it, and is located near the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

5-24

How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.

Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section.

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant is added. The following explains the cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating or if coolant needs to be added to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 5-28. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 25,000 miles (41 500 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

5-25

(cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture,

Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If coolant needs to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer check the cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information.

If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® engine coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If this coolant mixture is used, nothing else needs to be added.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

5-26

Checking Coolant

The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on the location of the coolant recovery tank. The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the cold fill line or a little higher. The cold fill line is marked with the same symbol as the coolant recovery tank cap. Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See Engine Overheating on page 5-28.

{CAUTION:

Turning the pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-30.

5-27

If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,

Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

Engine Overheating There is a coolant temperature gage and a warning light on the instrument panel that indicate an overheated engine condition. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-46 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-46.

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-30 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

5-28

If your engine catches fire because you

Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-30 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

If an overheat warning occurs without any sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Set the heater at the highest setting and the fan at

the highest speed and open the windows as necessary.

If the overheat warning no longer exists, the vehicle can be driven. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, the vehicle can be driven normally. If the warning continues, and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still there, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-29

(cid:127) (cid:127) Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode The overheated engine protection operating mode allows the vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, this protection mode alternates firing groups of cylinders to help prevent engine damage. In this mode, there will be a significant loss in power and engine performance. The engine coolant temperature gage indicator will move to the shaded area, and the engine coolant temperature warning light will come on, showing that an overheated engine condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheated engine protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-16.

5-30

Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

3800 V6 Supercharged Engine shown, 3800 V6

Engine similar

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan(s) C. Pressure Cap

5.3L V8 Engine

A. Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank

{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant recovery tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle on the 3800 V6 engines. The coolant recovery tank on the 5.3L V8 engine is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle, behind the engine air cleaner/filter.

5-31

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the cold fill line on the coolant recovery tank. To check the coolant level, look for the cold fill line on the side of the coolant recovery tank that faces the engine. If the level is not correct, there may be a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan(s) are running. If the engine is overheating, the fan(s) should be running. If the fan(s) are not running, the vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-30 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

5-32

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the cold fill line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-25 for more information. Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant level in the coolant recovery tank is at the cold fill line, start the vehicle.

5-33

If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the system is cool before you do it.

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator (3800 V6 Engines) Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

5-34

3800 V6 Supercharged Engine shown, 3800 V6

Engine similar

1. You can remove the pressure cap when the cooling

system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the cap slowly counterclockwise. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap and remove it.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

3. Remove the Series III V6 engine cover shield to

access the bleed valve.

3.1. Clean the area around the engine oil fill tube

and cap before removing. Twist the oil fill tube, with cap attached, counterclockwise and remove it.

3800 V6 Engine

5-35

4. After the engine cools,

open the coolant air bleed valve located on the thermostat housing near the heater hose.

Thermostat Housing

3800 V6 Supercharged Engine

3.2. Lift the engine cover shield at the front, slide

the catch tab out of the engine bracket and remove the cover shield.

3.3. Put the oil fill tube, with cap attached, in the valve cover oil fill hole until you are ready to replace the cover shield.

5-36

6. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine

and the compartment.

7. Replace the 3800 Series III V6 engine cover shield.

7.1. Remove the oil fill tube, with cap attached,

from the valve cover.

7.2. Insert the catch tab on the cover shield

under the bracket on the engine.

7.3. Place the hole in the cover shield over the

hole in the valve cover. Install oil fill tube and cap by twisting clockwise.

8. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the cold

fill line.

9. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the pressure cap off.

5-37

3800 V6 Supercharged Engine shown, 3800 V6

Engine similar

5. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-25 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from the air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is filled.

11. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

12. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during

this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

13. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in

the coolant recovery tank should be at the cold fill line when the engine is cold.

3800 V6 Supercharged Engine shown, 3800 V6

Engine similar

10. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the

upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan(s).

5-38

How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System (5.3L V8 Engine) Notice: Your engine has a specific cooling system drain and fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If your engine’s cooling system needs to be drained and re-filled, please see your dealer.

You can remove the pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise.

1. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss

means that there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap to remove the

pressure cap.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

3. Fill the cooling system with the proper DEX-COOL®

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-25 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine

and the compartment.

5. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the cold

fill line.

6. Install the coolant recovery tank cap and the

pressure cap.

7. If the coolant in the recovery tank is constantly low,

you should have a dealership service department inspect your vehicle for leaks.

5-39

Power Steering Fluid

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless a leak is suspected in the system, or an unusual noise is heard. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

5-40

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on

the dipstick

The fluid level should be between the ADD and HOT marks when the engine is cold. When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the HOT mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering fluid should be added. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating the vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer fluid reservoir is low, a LOW WASHER FLUID message along with the washer symbol, comes on in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-72 for more information.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

5-41

(cid:127) So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-42.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

5-42

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-105.

5-43

(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

5-44

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location.

Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. If the battery has a very low charge or is dead, you may not be able to remove the ignition key from the ignition switch or shift out of PARK (P). Refer to Shifting Out of Park (P) on page 2-32. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-46 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

5-45

Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

or ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

5-46

Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

If you leave your radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not use your vehicle’s battery for jump starting. It has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal, located on the underhood fuse block, for that purpose.

3800 V6 and 3800 V6
Supercharged Engines

If your vehicle has one of the 3800 V6 engines, to uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, press the tab at the bottom of the fuse block and lift the cover up.

5-47

If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine, to uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, remove the fuse block cover.

5.3L V8 Engine

Always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

5-48

{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−), or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (–) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

5-49

If the jumper cables are connected or

Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

5-50

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its

original position.

Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, If the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted.

It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows:

Headlamp aiming is done with the low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. To adjust the vertical aim, do the following:

The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface. The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other flat surface. The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other flat surface. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice, or mud on it. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver’s seat. Tires should be properly inflated.

1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam lamp. 2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim

dot on the lamp. Record the distance.

3. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2
and draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle.

5-51

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) 4. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.

Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.

Driver’s Side shown

5. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood, near the headlamps. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The adjustment screws can be turned with a 6 mm hex key bit socket or a 6 mm hex key.

5-52

6. Ensure the top edge of the cut-off is positioned at

the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. 7. Repeat Steps 4 through 6 for the opposite

headlamp.

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-59. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

5-53

Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps To replace a headlamp or sidemarker bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11

for more information.

A. High-Beam Headlamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. Sidemarker Lamp

5-54

2. Locate the metal retaining clip. Remove the bolt. 3. Pull up half-way on the metal retaining clip while pushing rearward on the headlamp. Align the square cut-out on the retaining clip with the notch on the headlamp.

4. Pull the headlamp assembly straight out from the

vehicle. (Moving the headlamp up and down slightly may help with its removal.)

A. High-Beam Headlamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. Sidemarker Lamp

5. Turn the bulb socket ring one-quarter of a turn

counterclockwise to remove it from the headlamp assembly.

6. Pull the old bulb from the socket. 7. Place the new bulb into the socket. 8. Turn the bulb socket ring one-quarter turn clockwise

to reinstall it back into the headlamp assembly.

5-55

9. Carefully reinstall the headlamp assembly. 10. Push down on the metal retaining clip while pushing

rearward on the headlamp, making sure the headlamp assembly is secure.

11. Reinstall the bolt and tighten to secure.

Front Turn Signal, Parking and Fog Lamps The front turn signal, parking, and fog lamps (if equipped) are located below the headlamp assembly.

To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Follow Steps 1 through 4 of the headlamp

replacement procedure. See Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps on page 5-54 for more information.

2. Locate the front turn

signal/parking lamp (all models) and fog lamp bulbs (if equipped), which are located below the headlamp assembly.

The arrow indicates which is the turn signal/parking lamp bulb. The fog lamp bulb is below it, if your vehicle has this bulb. If you need to have fog lamp bulb replaced, see your dealer for service.

3. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn

counterclockwise to remove it from its assembly.

4. Pull the old bulb from the socket and replace it with

a new one.

5. Turn the bulb socket a quarter turn clockwise to

reinstall it.

A. Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp B. Fog Lamp (If Equipped)

5-56

6. Reinstall the headlamp assembly. 7. Push down on the metal retaining clip while pushing

rearward on the headlamp, making sure the headlamp assembly is secure.

8. Reinstall the bolt and tighten to secure.

2. Remove the convenience net, if equipped, by

removing the net hook attachments.

3. Remove the plastic cap from the trunk trim. 4. Pull the trunk trim and carpet away from the back of

the trunk.

Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps

A. Taillamp B. Taillamps, Turn Signal

and Stoplamps

5. Remove the bottom bolt and two nuts.

6. Remove the taillamp assembly by pulling it out from the vehicle.

1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-13 for more

information.

5-57

7. Turn the appropriate

lamp socket a quarter turn counterclockwise and remove it.

Back-Up Lamps The back-up lamps are located on the trunk lid.

8. Remove the old bulb. 9. Replace with a new bulb into the socket and turn

the lamp socket clockwise to install it.

10. Reinstall the taillamp assembly by reversing

Steps 2 through 5.

To replace the back-up lamp bulb(s), do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-13 for

more information.

5-58

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamps

Back-Up Lamp

Front Parking/Turn Signal Lamp

Front Sidemarker Headlamps

High-Beam Halogen Low-Beam Halogen

Bulb Number

3157

3757 KA* or 5702 KA**

194

9005
9006
3057

Stop/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamps * GT and Base Models with the Optional Fog Lamps * For Lamps Not Equipped with the Fog Function and GXP Models

2. Turn the appropriate lamp socket a quarter turn

counterclockwise and remove it.

3. Remove the old bulb. 4. Put the new bulb into the lamp socket. 5. Turn the bulb a quarter turn clockwise to reinstall it.

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.

5-59

Windshield Replacement If your vehicle is equipped with the Head-Up Display (HUD) system, keep in mind that your windshield is part of the HUD system. If you ever have to get your windshield replaced, be sure to get one that is designed for HUD or your HUD image may look blurred or out of focus. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information on wiper blade inspection. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away from

the windshield.

5-60

2. While holding the wiper arm, pull the clip up from

the blade connecting point, and pull the blade assembly down toward the windshield to remove it from the wiper arm.

3. Install the new wiper blade onto the wiper arm and

snap the clip into place.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s owner manual.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same

danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut,

punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If

your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Low-Profile Performance Tire (GXP) If your vehicle has P255/45R18 size tires on the front wheels and P225/50R18 size tires on the rear wheels, they are classified as low-profile performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-profile performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your GM warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.

If your vehicle has low-profile tires, they

5-61

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

5-62

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-74. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

5-63

Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-99
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-77.

Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.

5-64

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

5-65

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

5-66

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-71. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-74. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading

(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-99.

5-67

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Tire Inflation Monitor System Your vehicle may have the Tire Inflation Monitor System (TIMS). The system is designed to alert the driver when there is a large air pressure change in one tire, while the vehicle is being driven. TIMS detects differences in tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The system can alert you about a low tire but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tires on page 5-60. The TIMS learns the pressure at each tire throughout the operating speed range of the vehicle. The system normally takes between 45 and 90 minutes of driving to learn the tire pressures. This time may be longer depending on individual driving habits. Learning need not be accumulated during a single trip. Once learned, the system will remember the tire pressures until the system is reset.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

5-68

This symbol, along with the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message, will appear in the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the pressure in one tire becomes 12 psi (83 kPa) lower than the other three tires.

See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-72 for more information. The tire inflation monitor system will not alert you if the pressure in more than one tire is low, if the system is not properly calibrated, or if the vehicle is moving faster than 70 mph (110 km/h). When the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message comes on, stop as soon as possible and check all the tires for damage. If a tire is flat, see If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-77. Also, check the tire pressure in all four tires as soon as possible. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67.

The CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message will also be displayed, while the ignition is on, until the system is reset. To reset the system, see “Tire Inflation Monitor System” under the options mode in DIC Controls and Displays (Base Level DIC) on page 3-52
or DIC Controls and Displays (Uplevel DIC with Trip Computer) on page 3-60. Do not reset the tire inflation monitor system without first correcting the cause of the problem and checking and adjusting the pressure in all four tires. If the system is reset when the tire pressures are incorrect, the system will not work properly and may not respond when a tire is low. The tire inflation monitor system will need to be reset any time a tire’s pressure is adjusted, the tires are rotated, or one or more tires is repaired or replaced. The system will also need to be reset when new tires are purchased for the vehicle and when the battery has been disconnected.

5-69

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tire rotation is not recommended if your vehicle is a GXP model equipped with P255/45R18 size tires on the front wheels and P225/50R18 size tires on the rear wheels. Different tire sizes front to rear should not be rotated. Tire rotation is recommended if the original equipment tires installed on your vehicle are of the same size and type on all four tire/wheel positions. Original equipment tires of the same size and type should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your vehicle’s tires as soon as possible and check the wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-71 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-75 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for scheduled rotation intervals.

5-70

Rotation Pattern for Non-GXP Tires Only

The correct rotation pattern shown here is only for non-GXP tires. Do not include the compact spare tire, if equipped, in your vehicle’s tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label, and reset the Tire Inflation Monitor System. See Tire Inflation Monitor System on page 5-68 for additional information.

Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-118.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-88.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

5-71

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-62 for additional information.

{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle), brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle) may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type tires on all wheels. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, it is all right to drive your vehicle with the compact spare temporarily. It was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-99.

5-72

{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.

Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, antilock brakes; traction control; and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.

{CAUTION:

If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.

See Buying New Tires on page 5-72 and Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for additional information.

5-73

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

5-74

Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.

5-75

Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-88 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

5-76

Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has P225/55R17, P255/45R18 or P225/50R18 size tires, do not use tire chains, there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.

Notice: If your vehicle does not have P225/55R17, P255/45R18 or P225/50R18 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class S-type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. See Tires on page 5-60. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.

5-77

A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, and your vehicle has a spare tire, see Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-88. This information shows you how to use your vehicle’s tire changing equipment and how to change a flat tire safely.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

If a Tire Goes Flat (GXP) GXP models have no spare tire, no tire changing equipment, and no place for storing a spare or flat tire. If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place and stopping. Then do this: 1. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. See Hazard

Warning Flashers on page 3-6.

2. Park your vehicle. Set the parking brake firmly and

put the shift lever in PARK (P). See Shifting Into Park (P) on page 2-31 for additional information.

3. Turn off the engine. 4. Inspect the flat tire. If the tire has been separated from the wheel or has damaged sidewalls or large tears that allow rapid air loss, call a tire repair facility. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If the flat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the tire inflator kit may be used to temporarily repair the damaged tire. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant to seal small punctures in the tread area of the tire. The flat tire is then inflated to at least 30 psi (207 kPa) and driven to evenly distribute the tire sealant.

5-78

If the tire pressure has dropped below

The tire pressure is checked after driving for a maximum of five miles (8.0 km) to see if the slow leak has been stopped. If the tire pressure is 19 psi (131 kPa) or more, inflate the tire up to the standard operating pressure as shown on the tire and loading information label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center-pillar below the driver’s door latch. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67. Notice: 19 psi (131 kPa), the vehicle should not be driven. Damage to the tire may be severe and the sealant will not be effective. Contact Roadside Assistance, see Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. You should have the damaged tire repaired as soon as possible. The tire sealant is a temporary repair only. If the tire has been filled with tire sealant, take the tire to a GM dealer for inspection and repair. See Tire Inflator Kit (GXP) on page 5-79 for additional information.

Tire Inflator Kit (GXP) Your vehicle may have a tire inflator kit. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant and air at the same time to seal small punctures in the tread area of the tire. Be sure to read and follow all the tire inflator kit instructions. The kit includes the following:

A. Air Compressor B. Tire Sealant Canister C. Air Compressor Accessory Plug

D. On/Off Switch

E. Air Pressure Gage F. Air Compressor

Inflator Hose

G. Sealant Filling Hose

If the flat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the tire inflator kit may be used to temporarily repair the damaged tire. After temporarily repairing a tire with the tire inflator kit, take your vehicle to an authorized GM dealer to have the tire inspected and repaired.

5-79

Accessing the Tire Inflator Kit To access the tire inflator kit, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-13 for more

information.

2. Locate the tire inflator kit by lifting up the carpet. 3. Remove the inflator kit cover by turning the center nut counterclockwise.

5-80

4. Remove the inflator kit by pulling it straight out of

the foam container.

Tire Sealant The kit contains a liquid sealant that when injected into a flat tire, may temporarily repair nail holes or cuts in the tread area of the tire. The tire sealant cannot repair tire damage caused while driving on a flat tire or a tire that has had a “blow out” or a tire that has punctures in the sidewall areas. The tire sealant solution is to be used for a single tire and can only be used once. Check the tire sealant expiration date on the sealant canister. The sealant may not be as effective beyond the expiration date. If needed, see your GM dealer for a replacement canister. After temporarily repairing a tire using the tire sealant, take your vehicle to an authorized GM dealer to have the tire inspected and repaired.

Using the Tire Inflator Kit To use the tire inflator kit, do the following: 1. Place the inflator kit on the ground and unwrap the

sealant filling hose from the compressor.

2. Remove the air compressor accessory plug from

the unit. To do this, pull the top portion of the wrapped cord out first, then the bottom, then unsnap the plug. Do not insert the plug into an accessory outlet yet.

3. Remove the valve stem cap from the flat tire by

turning it counterclockwise. If an object, such as a nail, has penetrated the tire, do not remove it.

5-81

{CAUTION:

Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See Engine Exhaust on page 2-33.

6. Start the vehicle. See Starting the Engine on

page 2-23 for more information. The vehicle must be running while using the air compressor.

{CAUTION:

Inflating something too much can make it