2004 Pontiac Grand PRIX Owners Manual

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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine. 5-38 3800 Engine 3.1. Clean the area around the engine oil ﬁll tube and cap before removing. Twist the oil ﬁll tube, with cap attached, counterclockwise and remove it. Thermostat Housing 3800 Supercharged Engine 3.2. Lift the engine cover shield at the front, slide the catch tab out of the engine bracket and remove the cover shield. 3.3. Put the oil ﬁll tube, with cap attached, in the valve cover oil ﬁll hole until you’re ready to replace the cover shield. 4. After the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed valve located on the thermostat housing near the heater hose. 5-39 7. Replace the 3800 Series III V6 engine cover shield. 7.1. Remove the oil ﬁll tube, with cap attached, 7.2. from the valve cover. Insert the catch tab on the cover shield under the bracket on the engine. 7.3. Place the hole in the cover shield over the hole in the valve cover. Install oil ﬁll tube and cap by twisting clockwise. 8. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the COLD mark. 9. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off. 5. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See EngineCoolantonpage5-26 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is ﬁlled. 6. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine and the compartment. 5-40 10. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. 11. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck. 12. Then replace the radiator pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrow on the pressure cap lines up like this. 13. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in the coolant recovery tank should be at the HOT mark when the engine is hot or at the COLD mark when the engine is cold. 5-41 Power Steering Fluid When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. The power steering ﬂuid reservoir is located in the engine compartment next to the engine coolant recovery tank. It sits low in the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page5-12. 5-42 Windshield Washer Fluid When to Add This symbol, along with the LOW WASHER FLUID message will appear in the Driver’s Information Center (DIC) when the windshield washer ﬂuid is low. What to Use When you need to add windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. 5-43 The ﬂuid level should be between the ADD and HOT marks when the engine is cold When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the HOT mark. If the ﬂuid is at the ADD mark when the engine is cold or hot, you should add power steering ﬂuid. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see PartD: RecommendedFluidsandLubricantsonpage6-16. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Adding Washer Fluid The windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle near the diagonal cross brace. See Engine CompartmentOverviewonpage5-12 for reservoir location. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. Notice: • When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. • Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer ﬂuid. • Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. • Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. 5-44 Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See EngineCompartmentOverviewon page5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid won’t correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. 5-45 {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: • Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. • If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index. United States Canada When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See BrakeSystemWarning Light on page3-36. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See PartD:RecommendedFluidsandLubricants on page6-16. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. 5-46 Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly). {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page6-15. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. 5-47 Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco® battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery. See EngineCompartmentOverviewon page5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. 5-48 If your battery has a very low charge or is dead, you may not be able to remove the ignition key from the ignition switch or shift out of PARK (P). Refer to Shifting Out of Park (P) on page2-30. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (- ) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page3-128. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps listed below to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: • They contain acid that can burn you. • They contain gas that can explode or • They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL (N) before setting the parking brake. 5-49 To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, depress the tab at the bottom of the fuse block and pull the cover off. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery. Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (- ) terminal locations on each vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose located under the underhood fuse block. The underhood fuse block is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, near the diagonal cross brace. See Engine CompartmentOverviewonpage5-12 for more information on location. 5-50 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco® battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5-51 5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (- ) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (- ), or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (- ) cable to the negative (- ) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 5-52 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (- ) cable to the negative (- ) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (- ) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (- ) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part or to a remote negative (–) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 5-53 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service. Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (- ) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 5-54 Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (- ) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (- ) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its original position. 5-55 Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment If the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles ﬂash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that you take the vehicle to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. However, it is possible for you to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: • The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other ﬂat surface. • The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other ﬂat surface. • The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other ﬂat surface. • The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud attached to it. • The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. • The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat. • Tires should be properly inﬂated. 5-56 Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam lamps. The high-beam lamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam lamps are aimed properly. The vertical headlamp aiming screws are under the hood near the headlamps. Headlamp Vertical Aiming 1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low beam lamp. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx® socket or T15 Torx® screwdriver. 2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the lamp. Record the distance. 5-57 3. At the wall or other ﬂat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2 and draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle. 4. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the ﬂat surface. Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 5-58 5. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the opposite headlamp. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulb, see Replacement Bulbs on page5-66. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. 5-59 Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps 1. Open the hood and replace the bulb for the appropriate lamp listed below. A. High-Beam Headlamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. Sidemarker Lamp 2. Pull up half-way on the plastic retaining clip on the electrical connector. 5-60 3. Pull the headlamp assembly straight out from the vehicle. Be careful to avoid scratching or chipping the paint on the vehicle while removing. 4. Turn the bulb socket ring one-quarter of a turn counterclockwise to remove it from the headlamp assembly. Pull the old bulb from the socket. 5. Place the new bulb into the socket. 6. Turn the bulb socket ring one-quarter turn clockwise to reinstall it back into the headlamp assembly. 7. Carefully reinstall the headlamp assembly. Be careful to avoid scratching or chipping the paint on the vehicle while reinstalling the assembly. 8. Push down on the plastic retaining clip on the electrical connector, making sure the headlamp assembly is secure. 5-61 Front Turn Signal, Parking and Fog Lamps The front turn signal, parking and fog lamps are located below the high, low-beam and sidemarker lamps 1. Open the hood. Replace the bulb for the appropriate lamp listed below. A. Front Turn Signal, Parking Lamp B. Fog Lamp 2. Remove the headlamps. 5-62 3. Pull up half-way on the plastic retaining clip on the electrical connector. 4. Pull the headlamp assembly straight out from the vehicle. The front turn signal, parking lamp and fog lamp bulbs are located below the headlamp assembly. The arrow shows the turn signal/parking lamp bulb. The fog lamp bulb is below it. 5. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn counterclockwise to remove it from its assembly. 6. Pull the old bulb from the socket and replace it with a new one. 7. Turn the bulb socket a quarter turn clockwise to reinstall it. 8. Carefully reinstall the headlamp assembly. Be careful to avoid scratching or chipping the paint on the vehicle. 9. Push down on the plastic retaining clip on the electrical connector, making sure the headlamp assembly is secure. 5-63 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) The LED bulb for the center high-mounted stoplamp is located in the spoiler. See your dealer for replacement. 2. Remove the convenience net, if equipped, by removing the net hook attachments. 3. Pull the trunk trim and carpet away from the back of the trunk. 4. Remove the bottom bolt and nut wings. Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps 1. Open the trunk. Replace the bulb for the appropriate lamp listed below. A. Taillamp B. Taillamps, Turn Signal and Stop Lamps 5. Carefully remove the taillamp assembly by pulling it out from the vehicle. Be careful to avoid scratching or chipping the paint on the vehicle. 5-64 6. Turn the appropriate lamp socket a quarter turn counterclockwise and remove it. Back-Up Lamps The back-up lamps are located on the trunk lid. To replace the back-up lamp bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. 7. Remove the old bulb. 8. Place the new bulb into the socket and turn the lamp socket clockwise to install it. 9. Carefully reinstall the taillamp assembly by reversing Steps 2 through 5. 5-65 Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamps Bulb Number Back-Up Lamp Front Park/Turn Lamp Front Sidemarker Halogen Headlamps-Low Beam Halogen Headlamps-High Beam Stop/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamps 3157 3757 KA 194 9006 9005 3057 For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer. 2. Turn the appropriate lamp socket a quarter turn counterclockwise and remove it. 3. Remove the old bulb. 4. Put the new bulb into the lamp socket. 5. Turn the bulb a quarter turn clockwise to reinstall it. 5-66 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Remove and replace a windshield wiper by following these steps: 1. Put the ignition in ACCESSORY and turn the windshield wipers on. 2. Stop the windshield wipers when they are in the upright position by turning the key to the off position. 3. Pull the windshield arm away from the windshield. To attach a new windshield wiper arm do the following: 1. Push the new wiper blade assembly onto the arm of the windshield wiper. Make sure it snaps over the release button. 2. Place the windshield wiper on the window. 3. Put the ignition in the off position. 4. Turn the windshield wipers off. Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” under AtLeastTwiceaYearonpage6-11 in the maintenance schedule for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see NormalMaintenanceReplacementParts on page5-105. 4. Push the release lever on the windshield arm (A). 5. Slide the assembly up and off the arm (B). 5-67 CAUTION: (Continued) • Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. • Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. • Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Pontiac Warranty booklet for details. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. • Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-68 Inﬂation -- Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label, which is on the inside of the trunk lid, shows the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinﬂation or overinﬂation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinﬂation), you can get the following: • Too much ﬂexing • Too much heat • Tire overloading • Bad wear • Bad handling • Bad fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinﬂation), you can get the following: • Unusual wear • Bad handling • Rough ride • Needless damage from road hazards When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they’re underinﬂated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. 5-69 Tire Pressure Monitor System This vehicle has the tire inﬂation monitor system, it can alert you to a large change in the pressure of one tire. The system “learns” the pressure at each tire throughout the operating speed range of your vehicle. The system normally takes between 45 and 90 minutes of driving to learn the tire pressures. This time may be longer depending on your individual driving habits. Learning need not be accumulated during a single trip. Once learned, the system will remember the tire pressures until the system is recalibrated. See DICWarningsandMessagesonpage3-65 for more information. This symbol, along with the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message will appear in the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the pressure in one tire becomes 12 psi (83 kPa) lower than the other three tires. The tire inﬂation monitor system won’t alert you if the pressure in more than one tire is low, if the system is not properly calibrated, or if the vehicle is moving faster than 70 mph (110 km/h). 5-70 The tire inﬂation monitor system detects differences in tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The system can alert you about a low tire – but it doesn’t replace normal tire maintenance. See Tireson page5-68. When the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message comes on, you should stop as soon as you can and check all your tires for damage. (If a tire is ﬂat, see IfaTireGoesFlatonpage5-78 ). Also, check the tire pressure in all four tires as soon as you can. See Inﬂation -- Tire Pressure on page5-69. The CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message will also be displayed (while the ignition is on) until you reset (calibrate) the system. To reset the system, see “Tire Inﬂation Monitor System” under the options mode in DIC Controls and Displays on page3-45. Don’t reset the tire inﬂation monitor system without ﬁrst correcting the cause of the problem and checking and adjusting the pressure in all four tires. If you reset the system when the tire pressures are incorrect, the system will not work properly and may not alert you when a tire is low. Any time you adjust a tire’s pressure, rotate your tires, or have one or more tires repaired or replaced, you’ll need to reset (calibrate) the tire inﬂation monitor system. You’ll also need to reset the system whenever you buy new tires and whenever the vehicle’s battery has been disconnected. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 7,500 miles (12 500 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See WhenItIsTime forNewTiresonpage5-72 and WheelReplacement on page5-75 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services,” in Section 6, for scheduled rotation intervals. When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page5-104. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index. 5-71 You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: • You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. • You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. • The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. • The tire has a bump, bulge or split. • The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. 5-72 Buying New Tires To ﬁnd out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires. {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the index. {CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. 5-73 Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. 5-74 Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. 5-75 Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle. {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See ChangingaFlatTireonpage5-78 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels {CAUTION: Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. 5-76 Tire Chains {CAUTION: If your vehicle has P225/55R17 size tires, don’t use tire chains, there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do ﬁnd traction devices that will ﬁt, install them on the front tires. type Notice: If your vehicle does not have P225/55R17 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class † S† chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle. 5-77 If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout”, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop — well off the road if possible. If a tire goes ﬂat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a ﬂat tire safely. Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning ﬂashers. {CAUTION: Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-78 CAUTION: (Continued) To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end. The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. 5-79 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk. 1. Turn the center nut on the compact spare tire cover counterclockwise to remove it. 5-80 2. Remove the compact spare tire. See Compact SpareTireonpage5-89 for more information about the compact spare tire. 3. Turn the nut holding the jack counterclockwise and remove it. Then remove the jack and wrench. 4. The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) extension and protector/guide (B) and the wheel wrench (C). 5-81 Removing Wheel Nut Caps If there is a wheel cover, loosen the plastic nut caps with the wheel wrench. They won’t come off. Then, using the ﬂat end of the wheel wrench, pry along the edge of the cover until it comes off. Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet. 2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the spare tire to ﬁt underneath the wheel well. 5-82 {CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. {CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. For jacking at the vehicle’s front location, put the jack lift head (C) about 6 inches (15 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel opening (B). Line up the jack with the arrow (A) as shown. Put the compact spare tire near you. 5-83 4. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. For jacking at the vehicle’s rear location, put the jack lift head (B) about 9 inches (23 cm) from the front edge of the rear wheel opening (C). Line up the jack with the arrow (A) as shown. Put the compact spare tire near you. 3. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the spare tire to ﬁt underneath the wheel well. Remove all wheel nuts and take off the ﬂat tire. 5-84 {CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident. 5. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface. 6. Reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. 7. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely. 5-85 8. Tighten the wheel nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence as shown. CAUTION: (Continued) Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See “Capacities and Speciﬁcations” in the Index for wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See “Capacities and Speciﬁcations” in the index for the wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. 10. Don’t try to put the wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t ﬁt. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the ﬂat tire repaired or replaced. Notice: Wheel covers won’t ﬁt on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare. 9. Reinstall the wheel trim. If the vehicle has plastic caps tighten them by hand. With a wheel wrench, tighten the plastic caps an additional quarter turn clockwise. {CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-86 Storing the Flat Tire and Tools {CAUTION: Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place. After you’ve put the compact spare tire on your vehicle, you’ll need to store the ﬂat tire in the trunk. Use the following procedure to secure the ﬂat tire in the trunk. When storing a full-size tire, you must use the extension to help avoid wheel surface damage. Use the extension and protector/guide located in the foam holder. To store a full-size tire, place the tire in the trunk valve stem facing down, with the protector/guide placed through a wheel bolt hole. Remove the protector and attach the retainer securely. When putting the compact spare back in the trunk, place the protector/guide back in the foam holder. Store the cover as far forward as possible. 5-87 A. Retainer B. Cover C. Compact Spare Tire D. Nut E. Jack F. Wheel Wrench G. Extension and Protective Guide H. Bolt Screw I. Foam Holder Storing the Spare Tire and Tools {CAUTION: Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place. Compact Spare Tire The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See CompactSpareTireon page5-89. See the storage instructions label on the trunk lid to properly position your compact spare tire in the trunk. 5-88 Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inﬂated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inﬂation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inﬂated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can ﬁnish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again. Notice: When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t ﬁt. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains won’t ﬁt your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare. 5-89 Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: • Alcohol • Laundry Soap • Bleach • Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GMVehicleCare/AppearanceMaterials on page5-96. Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into ﬂames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: • Gasoline • Benzene • Naphtha • Carbon Tetrachloride • Acetone • Paint Thinner • Turpentine • Lacquer Thinner • Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous – some more than others – and they can all damage your vehicle, too. 5-90 Here are some cleaning tips: • Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. • Clean up stains as soon as you can – before they set. • Carefully scrape off any excess stain. • Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. • If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set. Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. 3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly. 5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove any excess cleaner. 6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened towel or cloth. 7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry. Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water. 2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions described earlier. 3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water. 4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry completely. 3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions described earlier. 5-91 Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. • Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do this more than once. • Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl cleaner. See your dealer for this product. Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. • For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. • Neveruse oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. • Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the ﬁnish, it can harm the leather. Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reﬂections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface ﬁnish. Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust ﬁlms on interior glass. See GM VehicleCare/AppearanceMaterialsonpage5-96. Notice: Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. 5-92 Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry. {CAUTION: Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See PartD:Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page6-16. Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint ﬁnish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s ﬁnish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page5-96. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be ﬂushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the ﬁnish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. 5-93 Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint ﬁnish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Cleaning Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint ﬁnish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GMVehicleCare/Appearance Materials on page5-96. Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint ﬁnish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish may dull the ﬁnish or leave swirl marks. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s ﬁnish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. 5-94 Cleaning Aluminum Wheels Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels. Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: When applying a tire dressing, always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint ﬁnish and tires. Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty. Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the ﬁnish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials avaliable from your dealer. Larger areas of ﬁnish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. 5-95 Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, ﬂoor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, ﬂush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being ﬂushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you. Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs ﬁrst. 5-96 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing the following products. GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Description Usage Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil and asphalt. Chrome Cleaner and Polish Use on chrome or stainless steel. White Sidewall Tire Cleaner Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Vinyl Cleaner Glass Cleaner Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and ﬁngerprints. GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials (cont’d) GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials (cont’d) Description Usage Description Usage Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner Finish Enhancer Swirl Remover Polish Cleaner Wax Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers. Removes dust, ﬁngerprints, and surface contaminants, Spray on wipe off. Removes swirl marks, ﬁne scratches and other light surface contamination. Removes light scratches and protects ﬁnish. Cleans, shines and protects in one easy step, no wiping necessary. Wash Wax Concentrate Spot Lifter Odor Eliminator Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free. Quickly and easily removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl and cloth upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet. See your General Motors parts department for these products. See PartD:RecommendedFluidsand Lubricantsonpage6-16. 5-97 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) This is the legal identiﬁer for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certiﬁcation and Service Parts labels and the certiﬁcates of title and registration. Engine Identiﬁcation The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, speciﬁcations and replacement parts. Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label You’ll ﬁnd this label on the inside of your trunk lid. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: • your VIN, • the model designation, • paint information and • a list of all production options and special equipment. Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle. 5-98 Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment Notice: Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer ﬁrst. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page1-56. Headlamp Wiring The headlamp circuit is protected by individual fuses in the underhood fuse block. An electrical overload will cause the fuse to blow. If this happens, have your headlamp system checked right away. Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem, have it ﬁxed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers in the fuse panel protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is ﬁxed. Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible thermal links in the wiring itself. This greatly reduces the chance of ﬁres caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. Spare fuses and a fuse puller are located in the underhood fuse block. See Underhood FuseBlock later in this section. 5-99 Instrument Panel Fuse Block A fuse usage chart is on the inside of this panel. Some fuses are in a fuse block located on the end of the instrument panel on the passenger side. To get to the fuse block lift up on the side panel. Circuit Breakers Usage RAP Retained Accessory Power SUN ROOF Sunroof CRUISE SW Cruise Switch PK LP Parking Lamps 5-100 Circuit Breakers Usage RR DEFOG Rear Window Defogger DR LK/TRUNK Door Lock/Trunk ONSTAR/ALDL Onstar®/Diagnostic Link CANNISTER Fuel Tank Solenoid Cannister PK LAMPS Parking Lamps RADIO/AMP Radio Ampliﬁer RFA/MOD Remote Funtion Activator (Remote Keyless Entry) DISPLAYS Instrument Panel Dispays/HUD/DIC INT LIGHT Interior Lamps HVAC Climate Controls Circuit Breakers Usage CHMSL/BKUP Center High Mounted Stop Lamp/Back-Up Lamps PWR WDO Power Windows SPRING COIL Steering Wheel Control Switches PWR SEAT Power Seat TURN/HAZ Turn Signals/Hazard Warning Lamps PWR MIRS Power Mirrors HTD SEAT Heated Seat To reinstall the end panel, position the lower section with the edge, on the side opening and press the sides of the panel until it snaps into place. 5-101 Underhood Fuse Block Some fuses are located in a fuse block in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side. Unscrew the bolt in the center of the fuse block cover and remove the cover. A fuse chart is on the inside of the cover. To take the cover off, press the tab at the bottom of the cover and pull. 5-102 Fuses 10 11 12 Usage Left Front Hiigh-Beam Headlamp Right Front High-Beam Headlamp Left Front Low-Beam Headlamp Right Front Low-Beam Headlamp Windshield Wipers/Washer Washer/Remote Vehicle Current Fog Lamps SIR Auxilliary Power Horn Emission Fuses 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 Usage A/C Clutch Oxygen Sensor Power Control Module Power Control Module/Electronic Throttle Control Electronic Throttle Control Display Anti-Lock Brake Solenoid Fuel Injection Transmission Solenoid Fuel Pump Anti-Lock Brakes Electronic Ignition Battery Main 1 Battery Main 2 Battery Main 3 Fan 1 Battery Main 4 Anti-Lock Brake Motor Fan 2 Starter Relays Usage 34 Hghi-Beam Headlamps 35 Low-Beam Headlamps 36 Fog Lamps 37 Iginition 1 38 Air Conditioner Compressor 39 Horn 40 Powertrain 41 Fuel Pump 42 Fan 1 43 Fan 3 44 Windshield Wiper/High 45 Windshield Wiper 46 Fan 2 48 Crank 49 Spare Fuse 50 Spare Fuse 51 Spare Fuse 52 Blank 53 Blank 54 Blank 55 Fuse Puller § A/C Clutch 5-103 Capacities and Speciﬁcations Please refer to Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page6-16 for more information. Capacities and Speciﬁcations Capacities Application Air Conditioning Refrigerant R134a Automatic Transaxle Pan Removal and Replacement After Complete Overhaul English 2.4 lbs 7.4 quarts 10.0 quarts When draining/replacing converter or auxiliary cooler, more ﬂuid may be needed. Cooling System Including Reservoir 3800 V6 (Code K) 3800 V6 Supercharged (Code 1) Engine Oil with Filter 3800 V6 (Code K) 3800 V6 Supercharged (Code 1) 11.2 quarts 11.2 quarts 4.3 quarts 4.3 quarts Metric 1.1 kg 7.0 L 9.5 L 10.6 L 10.6 L

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2004 Pontiac Grand PRIX Owners Manual