1995 Oldsmobile Aurora Owners Manual

DATE GVWR GAWR

FRT GAWR RR

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLI- CABLE U.S. FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY, BUMPER, AND THEFT PREVENTION STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE.

The other label is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver's door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, f ~ ~ e l and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front of rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don't carry more than I76 lbs. (80 kg) in your trunk.

The electronic level control automatically keeps the rear of the vehicle level as you load or unload your vehicle.

If you put things inside your vehicle - like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else - they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they'll keep going.

I NOTICE:

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

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Your vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in "Weight of the Trailer" that appears later i n this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That's the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What's more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

Towing a Trailer

NOTICE: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your Aurora retailer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points.

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having t o do with trailering. M, cl k e sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch retailer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles ( I 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 k d h ) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear i n at the heavier loads. Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive fdster than the maximum posted speed for trailers (or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h)) to save wear on your vehicle‘s parts.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer’ safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude. road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used t o pull a trailer are a l l important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your retailer for O L I ~ trailering information or advice, or you can write LIS at: Customer Assistance Representative Oldsnlobile Central Office 920 Townsend Street P.O. Box 30095 Lansing, MI 48909 In Canada, write to: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Assistance Center I908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LIH 8P7.

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total capacity weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. I f they aren’t, YOLI may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the recommended pressure for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.

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Hitches It's important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you'll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: 0 Will you have to make any holes in the body of your

vehicle when you install a trailer hitch'? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don't seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see "Carbon Monoxide" in the Index). Dirt and water can. too.

0 The bumpers on your vehicle are n o t intended for

hitclxs. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue ol'the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for attaching safety chains and do n o t attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And. never allow safety chains t o drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle's brake system. If you do, both brake systems won't work well, o r at all.

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Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by Imnd to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You'll need more passing distance up ahead when you're towing a trailer. And, because you're a good deal longer, you'll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move y o ~ ~ r hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible. have someone guide you.

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Making Turns

I NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you‘re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you‘re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus. you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear h4for-c you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.

Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here‘s how to do it: 1.

Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P). Release the regular brakes.

2. 3.

4.

5.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill I . Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

Start your engine: Shift into a gear; and Release the parking brake.

2. Let LIP on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, belt, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and ;he Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it‘s a good idea to review these sections before you stat your trip. Check periodically t o see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road. Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lights will flash on and off.

-. * * ..:.**. - ..- . - . . .-.* :... ....-~~;~-:..~’...,‘.~...:...~:..~., . . .-. - .. . -,.: .. : ...:-,.:...:..:-.- . . . .. ::.:. . - . *-. . . *. :. .-:. . . . . . . .. . .. . . .. . ::.* - *

*:

-*

a::.

. a . -.e.-.

P:..

.. t? .*::.: .a. .e%* , *

Press down on the button located on top of the steering column, then release it to turn on the hazard warning flashers.

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1 The HAZARD light on the HAZARDA

instrument panel will also come on.

Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Aurora. But please follow the steps to do it safely.

Your hazard flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, press the button down again. When the flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

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NOTICE: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your Aurora by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

To Jump Start Your Aurora: 1. Check the other vehicle. I t must have a I2-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be s~lre the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your Aurora, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. You could be injured if the vehicle rolls. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL (N).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all

lights that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

I NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

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4. Open the hoods and locate the other vehicle's battery

and the Aurora's remote positive (+) junlp starting terminal.

Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery or remote terminal. Your Aurora's battery isn't under the hood, but there is a remote positive (+)jump starting terminal there. The terminal is i n the box on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

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You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on your battery. To open the remote positive (+) terminal box, pull the tab and open the cover.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.

y .

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-.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the remote positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the

positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good

battery’s negative (-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable cloesn P go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

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GOOD BATTERY

DEAD BATTERY

9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away

from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it

won't start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Tdke care that they don't touch each other or any other metal.

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Towing Your Vehicle

If your vehicle has been changed o r modified since it was factory-new by adding aftermarket items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions and illustrations may not be correct. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle can only be towed with certain equipment, as described later in this section. That your vehicle has front-wheel drive. The make, model and year of your vehicle. Whether you can still n~ove the shift lever. If there was an accident, what was damaged.

When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.

Try to have a GM retailer or a professional towing service tow your Aurora. The usual towing equipment is: A. Sling-type tow truck B. Wheel-lift tow truck C. Car carrier

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When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering wheel should be clamped i n a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transaxle should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake release. Don’t have your vehicle towed on the front wheels. unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the front wheels, don’t go more than 35 mph (56 k d h ) or farther than SO miles (80 km) or your transaxle will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the front wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

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Towing from the Front-Vehicle Hook up Before hoolung up to a tow truck, be sure to read all the information under “Towing Your Vehicle” earlier in this section.

1. Attach T-hook chains into the bottom slots in the

cradle behind the front wheels, on both sides.

NOTICE: Do not tow with sling-type equipment or fascia. damage will occur. Use wheel-lift or car carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps.

NOTICE: Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.

2. Attach a separate safety

chain wound the outboard end of each control arln.

Towing from the Rear-Vehicle Hook up Before hooking up to a tow truck, be sure to read all the information under "Towing Your Vehicle" earlier in this section.

I . Attach T-hook chains on both sides i n the slotted

holes in the floor pan support rails .just ahead of the rear wheels.

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3. Attach a separate safety

chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

2. Position the lower sling crossbar directly under the

rear bumper.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your Aurora’s instrunlent panel. Your information center will also display messages about engine overheating. See “Coolant Temperature Gage“ i n the Index. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode Should a low coolant condition exist and the message HOT STOP ENGINE display, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of four cylinders helps prevent engine damage. This operating mode allows YOLIP vehicle to be driven to a safe place i n an emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km). Towing a trailer i n the overheat protection lnode should be avoided.

NOTICE: After driving in the “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode,” to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil may be severely degraded. Change the oil and reset the oil life indicator. See “Engine Oil, When to Change” in the Index.

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If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn off your air conditioner. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you‘re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (@) or THIRD (3). If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there‘s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turf? o f t h e engine and get everyone out qf the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

NOTICE: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

Cooling System

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see: A. Coolant surge tank with pressure cap B. Two electric engine fans

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling. don’t do anything else until it cools down.

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The coolant level should be at or above FULL COLD. If it isn’t and the LOW ENGINE COOLANT message appears on the Driver Inforn~ation Center, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

I NOTICE:

Engine damage if you keep running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine fan(sj are running. If the engine is overheating, both fan(sj should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you haven't found a problem yet. but the coolant level isn't at FULL COLD. add a SO/SO mixture of c l e c r n c1*trreI- (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant surge tank, but be SLIE the cooling system. including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. (See "Engine Coolant" i n the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

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I NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.

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1 . You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper r' d d' lator hose, is no longer hot.

. .

2. Then keep turning

the pressure cap slowly, and remove it.

Turn the pressure cap slowly about one-quarter turn to the left and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

3. Fill the coolant

surge tank with the proper mix, up to FULL COLD.

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By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of'the proper mix t o the coolant surge tank until the level reaches FULL COLD.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is tight.

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off', start the

engine and let it run until YOLI can feel the upper r it d' lator hose getting hot. Watch o u t for the engine fans.

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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving. especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it‘s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fdils, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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1. Turn the center retainer

bolt on the spare tire cover counterclockwise to remove it, then lift the tire cover.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk. Instructions for changing your tires are on the inside of the tire cover. You can rest the cover near you for easy reference while you change the tire.

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2. The jack container is labeled PRESS SIDES LIFT

TOP. Do this, then remove the jack and wrench.

3. Turn the spare tire

retainer bolt counterclockwise until it’s loose and remove the retainer assembly.

4. Remove the spare tire from the trunk. Place your

tire-changing equipment near the flat tire.

5. Insert the hooked end of the wlleel wrench i n one of the two small notches i n the center cover and pry the cover off. Do not drop the cover or lay it face down, as it could be scratched or damaged. When replacing the cover after the wheel is put back on the vehicle, do not use a han~mer or mallet to install the cover.

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- 4

A . P

4. Use the wheel wrench to loosen the wheel nuts. but

don't remove them.

7. Turn the end of the jack

clockwise by hand to raise the jack head a few inches.

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8. Near each wheel well is a notch on the frame to

position the jack head. The front notch is I 1 inches (28 cm) back from the front wheel well. The rear notch is 7.5 inches (1 9 cm) forward from the rear wheel well. You'll find the word JACK and an arrow stamped into the plastic near each notch.

9. Position the jack and raise the jack head until it fits

firmly against the sheet metal next to the word JACK. Do not raise the vehicle yet. Put the compact spare near you.

10. Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench

clockwise in the jack. Raise the jack far enough so there’s enough room for the spare tire to fit.

I NOTICE:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

11. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

/- 7--..

12. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

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13. Replace the wheel

nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

15. In a crisscross sequence,

tighten the wheel nuts firmly.

14. Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench

counterclockwise on the jack. Lower the jack completely.

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Don’t try to put the wheel cover on the compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have replaced the compact spare tire with a regular tire.

16. Store the flat tire as far forward in the trunk as

possible. Store the jack and wheel wrench in their compartment in the trunk.

The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire’’ later in this section.

NOTICE: Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, spare.

damage

could

or the

you

the

cover

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Don‘t use your compact spare on some other vehicle. And don’t mix your compact spare or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare and its wheel together.

I NOTICE:

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them will damage your vehicle and destroy the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at posted speed limits for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

NOTICE: Don’t take your compact spare through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fdst. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

I NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains’’ in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn your traction control system off. (See ”Traction Control System” in the Index.) Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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@ Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your Aurora. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care. Service Your Aurora retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your retailer for all your service needs. You‘ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper Aurora Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your Aurora than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications’‘ in the Index.

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Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Aurora” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

6-2

I NOTICE:

If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough about it, your vehicle could be damaged.

Fuel Use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher. It should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the United States and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see UNLEADED right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane is at least 91. If the octane is less than 91, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. (In an emergency, you may be able to use lower octane -- as low as 87 -- if heavy knocking does not occur.) If you’re using 91 or higher octane unleaded gas and you still get heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol‘? MTRE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethcrnol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% e r h d is fine for your vehicle. Metlmzol is methyl or wood alcohol.

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their L. zasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions.

6-3

Remote Fuel Door Release The remote fuel door release can help keep your fuel tank from being siphoned. Always be sure the fuel door is closed and latched after refueling.

To open the fuel door (on the left of the vehicle), press the button next to the trunk release button, to the right of the steering column. The ignition need not be on. The remote fuel door release will work in all transaxle positions.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won't work well or at a l l . With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle's oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn't be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you'll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell LIS where you're going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L l H 8P7

6-4

Remote Fuel Door Manual Release

Filling Your Tank

The fuel door can be opened lnanually in case of an electrical power failure. To do so, first open the trunk. The release nlechanisln is on the driver’s side of the vehicle, at the top of the trunk compartment. Pull the tab toward you to release the fuel door.

NOTICE: Prying on a locked fuel filler door could damage it. Use the remote fuel door manual release located in the trunk.

The cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle.

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To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door. Twist it clockwise to secure it, if necessary.

6-6

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Aurora” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear at least three clicks. I NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

Checking Things Under the Hood The following sections tell you how to check fluids, lubricants and important parts underhood. Hood Release

To open the hood. first pull the hood release handle inside the vehicle, located to the left of the steering wheel under the instrument panel.

v -

Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the underhood release. Lift the hood.

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Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.

6-8

4.0L V8 Engine (Code C)

P P

7. 8. 9.

When you open the hood, you’ll see: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Windshield Wdsher Fluid Reservoir Power Steering Fluid Reservoir Brake Fluid Reservoir Engine Coolant Surge Tank Air Cleaner Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick (behind air cleaner) Engine Oil Dipstick Engine Oil Fill Cap Remote Positive Battery Terminal

6-9

4. Alternator Pulley 5. Air Conditioner Compressor Pulley 6. Harmonic Balancer Engine Oil If the CHECK 01L LEVEL message or the oil warning light on the instrument panel comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “Check Oil Level Message” or “Oil Warning Light” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

Engine Accessory Belt

The 4.0L Aurora engine uses an engine accessory belt. This diagram shows the features connected by the belt routing. See”Maintenance Schedu1e”in the Index for when to check the belt. 1. Tensioner Arm Pulley 2. Power Steering Pump Pulley 3. Idler Pulley

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To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line. then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity. see ”Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Just fill it enough t o put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back i n when you‘re through.

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What Kind of Oil to Use Oils of the proper quality for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the ‘bStarburst” symbol. The “Starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for use i n your gasoline engine.

RECOMMENDED SAE VlSCOSlTV GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

HOT

WEATHER

LOOK

FOR MIS SYMBOL

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the “Starburst” symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines. You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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I-.

SAE lunl-30 PREFERRED

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 10W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE SW-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60°F (16°C) before your next oil change. When it‘s very cold. you should use SAE SW-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such X SAE 2OW-SO.

NOTICE: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the proper oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your Aurora retailer is ready t o advise if you think something should be added.

When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you: 0 Most trips are less than 5 to I0 miles (8 to 16 km).

This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving i n stop and go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas.

0 You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of

your vehicle.

If any one of-. these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 k m ) or 3 months -- whichever comes first. (See “Change Oil Message” in the Index.) If the CHANGE OIL NOW message appears i n the Driver Information Center, you should change your oil. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles ( 12 SO0 km) or 12 months -- whichever colnes first. (See “Change Oil Message’‘ in the Index.) Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change.

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Engine Coolant Heater An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0°F (- 18°C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer‘? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner- Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain a l l free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your retailer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Air Cleaner To Check or Replace the Air Filter

1 . Remove hose (A) from resonator channel. 2. Release tension of the wing screw clamp (B) on the

air intake duct where it attaches to the air cleaner cover near the top of the engine. Just turn the wing screw counterclockwise, then detach the duct from the air cleaner cover.

3. Push the duct and resonator assembly (C) rearward

and up, and hold out of the way.

4. There's a temperature sensor on the corner of the air

cleaner cover. Use a screwdriver to release the sensor's electrical connector retainer, and pull up.

5. Unsnap the two clamps by pushing down on the top of the air cleaner cover and pushing i n on the clamps toward the center of the cover. Then remove the cover.

A. Remove the air filter. 7. Install the new air filter and reverse all steps to

reinstall the cover. electrical wires, duct and clamp. Be sure the tabs of the air cleaner cover fit into the slots of the air cleaner housing. Then make sure both clamps are f ~ ~ l l y

engaged.

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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

NOTICE: If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

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Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Aurora Retail Facility Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading transaxle fluid.

if you check your

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). 0 At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather.

0 While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93 "C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to drive longer.

To check the fluid level

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P).

0 With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

0 Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

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3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The tluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint (OSL). DOIZ ’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “HOW to Check.’’

0 When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back i n all the way.

and refill. Use GM Engine Coolant Supplement (sealer) with any cotnplete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture, you don‘t need to add anything else. A special procedure is required for adding sealer; see the A L I ~ o ~ ~ ”Service Publications“ in the Index.)

Service Manual. (To order a service 1nanual. see

Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your Aurora will: 0 Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C) 0 Give boiling protection up to 262°F (128°C). 0 Protect against rust and corrosion. 0 Help keep the proper engine temperature. 0 Let the warning lights work as they should. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half c.lt.crr~ wwtor (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 182S-M,” which won‘t damage aluminum parts. You call also use a recycled coolant conforming to GM Specification 1825-M with a complete coolant tlush

NOTICE: If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

Adding Coolant

The engine coolant surge tank is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment.

To Check Coolant

When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark or a little higher. If the message LOW ENGINE COOLANT is displayed on your message center, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

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Power Steering Fluid How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. Add enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is tight. Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended.

6-21

What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

NOTICE: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure t o read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

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There are two windshield washer fluid tanks. The upper tank (shown above) will empty first. When the lower tank contains 0.5 quarts (0.5 liters) or less, the message LOW WASHER FLUID will be displayed on the Driver Information Center. To Add Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is f~111.

Brakes Brake Master Cylinder Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level i n your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you

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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme 11 No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.

(GM Part

I NOTICE:

Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. A chime will sound if you try to drive with this warning light on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

6-24

Brake Wear Your Aurora has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

I NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Brake linings should always be replaced a s complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time YOLI apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

6-25

The battery is located under the rear seat cushion. To access the battery, see “Removing the Rear Seat Cushion” in the Index. You don’t need to access the battery to jump start your vehicle. See “Jump Starting” in the Index.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your Aurora does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts i n the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Every new Aurora has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom@ battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label.

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To be sure the vent hose (A) is properly attached, the vent hose connectors (B) must be securely reattached to the vent outlets (C) on each side of the battery, and the vent assembly grommet (D) must be secured to the floor pan (E). Vehicle Storage If you're not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Contact your retailer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Halogen Bulbs

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Headlamp Aiming Your vehicle has the composite headlamp system. These headlamps have horizontal and vertical aim indicators. The aim has been pre-set at the hctory and should need no further adjustment. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident and the headlamp aim seems to be affected, see your Aurora retailer. Headlamps on damaged vehicles may require recalibration of the horizontal aim by your Aurora retailer. To check the aim, the vehicle should be properly prepared as follows:

The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice, or mud attached to it.

0 There should not be any cargo or loading of vehicle,

except it should have a full tank of gas and one person or 160 Ibs. (75 kg) on the driver's seat. Tires should be properly inflated.

I NOTICE:

To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.

State inspection stations will allow a vertical reading of plus 0.76 degrees or minus 0.76 degrees from the center of the bubble. It is recolnmended that the upper limit not exceed plus 0.4 degrees from the center of the bubble. Other drivers may flash their bright lights at you if your adjustment is much above plus 0.4 degrees. If you find that the headlamp aiming needs adjustment, follow these steps: Start with the vertical headlamp aim. Don't try to adjust the horizontal aim first. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx@socket or T1S TorxB screwdriver.

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1. Check the vertical aim for each headlamp and adjust it as necessary. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the bubble in the level is centered at 0 (zero).

2. Now acl-just the horizontal aim. Check the horizontal

aim for each headlamp and adjust it as necessary. TLII-11 the horizontal aiming screw until the pointer is lined up with the 0 (zero).

3. Now, re-check the vertical aim, to make sure it is still correct after the horizontal aim adjustment. Read.just. if necessary.

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Headlamp Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb, see "Replacement Bulbs'' i n the Index.

b. Release tension of the wing screw clamp (B) on the

air intake duct where it attaches to the air cleaner cover near the top of the engine. Turn the wing screw counterclockwise, then detach the hose from the air cleaner cover.

c. Push the duct and resonator assembly (C) rearward

and up, and hold them out of the way.

Low Beam Bulbs 1. Remove the air cleaner cover to get to the driver's

side headlamp bulb.

To do this: a . Remove the radiator hose (A) from the resonator

channel.

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2. Twist the bulb assembly 1/6 turn and pull out the

bulb assembly.

3. Unclip the bulb

assembly from the wiring harness and replace the bulb assembly.

High Beam Bulbs 1. Pull up on the wiring harness. This unlocks the bulb.

4. Reverse steps 1-3 to replace the bulb assembly,

headlamp housing and air cleaner cover and tube.

2. Now you can reach in behind the lamp housing and

pull out the bulb.

3. To replace the bulb, angle the new bulb into the

empty socket.

4. Push the base of the bulb down to lock it into place.

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Taillamp Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index.

2. Unscrew the

convenience net attachment nut. Open the trim panel door.

3. Remove the two wing

nuts now exposed

1. In the trunk, remove the convenience net from the hooks. Next remove the plastic screws holding the carpeting in place and pull back the carpeting.

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4. Remove the taillamp filler screw located to the side

of the taillamp filler panel.

5. Pull out the lamp to reach the bulb. Pull out the bulb.

To replace, push the bulb back in.

6. Reverse steps 1-5 to replace the taillamp filler, wing

nuts and carpeting.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement

Tires We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. These tires are warranted by the tire manufacturers and their warranties are delivered with every new Aurora. If your spare tire is a different brand than your road tires, you will have a tire warranty folder from each of these manufacturers.

Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove the type with a release hole: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the

windshield.

2. Insert a small screwdriver into the hole (A) and pull

the blade assembly off the wiper arm (B).

3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm.

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Inflation - Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than a mile.

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation) you can get:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy.

NOTICE: (Continued)

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles ( 10 000 to 13 000 km) for any signs of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When it’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

NOTICE: (Continued) If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:

Unusual wear 0 Bad handling 0 Rough ride 0 Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more, Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).

Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires -- which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated. If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don't include the conlpact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures a s shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See "Wheel Nut Torque" in the Index.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Inforrnation label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) nu~nber on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If y o ~ ~ r design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your origiml tires.

tires have an all-season tread

When it’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch ( I .6 trim) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if:

You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fcbric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Treadwear j on The treadwear grade is a comparative rating base( the wear rate of the tire when tested under control led conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire gkded 150 would wear one and a half ( I 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.

Traction - A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest are: A, B, and G. They represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight-ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)

Temperature - A, B, C

The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. These grades are molded on the sidewalls of passenger car tires.

While the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General Motors vehicles may vary with respect to these grades, all such tires meet General Motors performance standards and have been approved for use on General Motors vehicles. All passenger type (P Metric) tires must conform to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels aligned again. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your Aurora retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your Aurora model.

I NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

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Tire Chains

NOTICE: Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your Aurora, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Nc)c)er* use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline Benzene Naphtha

0 Carbon Tetrachloride

Acetone

0 Paint Thinner 0 Turpentine 0 Lacquer Thinner

Nail Polish Remover

They can a l l be hazardous -- some no re than others -- and they can a l l damage your vehicle, too.

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:

Alcohol Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Aurora Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth. Your Aurora retailer has two GM cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. Do not use them on vinyl or leather. Here are some cleaning tips: 0 Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.

Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area only. If you use them, don’t saturate the stained area.

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0 If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire

area immediately or it will set.

Using Foarn-']lSrpe Cleaner on Fabric

Vxuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following the directions 011 the container label. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don't saturate the material. Don't rub it roughly. As soon as you've cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove the suds. Rinse the section with a clean, wet sponge. Wipe off what's left with a slightly damp paper towel or cloth. Then dry it immediately with a blow dryer or a heat lamp.

NOTICE: I Be careful. A blow dryer may scorch the fabric.

0 Wipe with a clean cloth. Using Solvent-Type Cleaner on Fabric First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all. Some spots and stains will clean off better with just water and mild soap. If you need to use a solvent: 0 Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with a clean, dl111 knife or scraper. Use very little cleaner, light pressure and clean cloths (preferably cheesecloth), Cleaning should start at the outside of the stain, "feathering" toward the center. Keep changing to a clean section of the cloth.

0 When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately dry the area with a blow dryer to help prevent a cleaning ring. (See the previous NOTICE.)

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Special Cleaning Problems

Greasy or Oily Stains Such a s grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe polish, coffee with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt can be removed as follows:

Carefully scrape off excess stain.

0 Follow the solvent-type instructions described

earlier. Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain if left on a vehicle seat fabric. They should be removed as soon as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner will dissolve them and may cause them to spread.

Non-Greasy Stains Such as catsup. coffee (black). egg. fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit, urine and blood.

Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water. If a stain remains, follow the foam-type instructions described earlier.

If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a watedbaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon ( 5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 m l ) of lukewarm water. If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.

Combination Stains Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows:

Carefully scrape off excess stain, then clean with cool water and allow to dry. If a stain remains, clean it with solvent-type cleaner.

Cleaning Vinyl