Download PDF Manual

there is nothing in the way, steer so that the vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement.


4-12


Driving Your Vehicle


Turn the steering wheel 3 to 5 inches, 8 to 13 cm, (about one-eighth turn) until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.


Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing:


Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait. (cid:129) Watch for traffic signs,


pavement markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane.


(cid:129) Do not get too close to the


vehicle you want to pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.


(cid:129) Wait your turn to pass a slow


vehicle.


(cid:129) When you are being passed,


ease to the right.


Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.


Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible.


The three types of skids correspond to the vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If the traction system is off, then an acceleration skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-7 and StabiliTrak® System on page 4-6. If the vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, the vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs.


(cid:129) Driving Your Vehicle


4-13


Off-Road Driving The airbag system is designed to work properly under a wide range of conditions, including off-road usage. Always wear your safety belt and observe safe driving speeds, especially on rough terrain. Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road and this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious — or even fatal — accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking.


Off-roading can be great fun but has some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. When off-road driving, traffic lanes are not marked, curves are not banked, and there are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill, or downhill. Avoid sharp turns and abrupt maneuvers. Failure to operate the vehicle correctly off-road could result in loss of vehicle control or vehicle rollover. Off-roading involves some new skills. That is why it is very important that you read these driving tips and suggestions to help make off-road driving safer and more enjoyable.


Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until the vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.


4-14


Driving Your Vehicle


Before You Go Off-Roading (cid:129) Have all necessary maintenance


and service work done.


(cid:129) Make sure there is enough fuel, that fluid levels are where they should be, and that the spare tire is fully inflated.


(cid:129) Be sure to read all the


information about four-wheel-drive vehicles in this manual.


(cid:129) Make sure all underbody shields,


if the vehicle has them, are properly attached.


(cid:129) Know the local laws that apply to


off-roading where you will be driving or check with law enforcement people in the area.


(cid:129) Be sure to get the necessary permission if you will be on private land.


Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving


{ CAUTION


(cid:129) Cargo on the load floor piled


higher than the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.


(cid:129) Unsecured cargo on the load


floor can be tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.


(Continued)


CAUTION (Continued)


(cid:129) Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.


There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.


The heaviest things should be on the floor, forward of the rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.


(cid:129) Be sure the load is properly


secured, so things are not tossed around.


(cid:129) You will find other important information under Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35 and Tires on page 5-44.


Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment: (cid:129) Always use established trails,


roads, and areas that have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving and obey all posted regulations.


(cid:129) Avoid any driving practice that could damage shrubs, flowers, trees, or grasses or disturb wildlife. This includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees, or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground.


(cid:129) Always carry a litter bag and


make sure all refuse is removed from any campsite before leaving. Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted), camp stoves, and lanterns.


(cid:129) Never park your vehicle over dry


grass or other combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-15


Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Check to see if there are any blocked or closed roads. It is also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle in case something happens to one of them. For vehicles with a winch, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck but you will want to know how to use it properly.


(cid:129) 4-16


Driving Your Vehicle


High Mobility Characteristics The H3 has a 8.8 inch (22.3 cm) running ground clearance (A), a 9.2 inch (23.4 cm) axle to ground clearance (B), and a low center of gravity. The H3T has a 9.5 inch (24.1 cm) running ground clearance (A), and 8.7 inch (22.1 cm) axle to ground clearance (B), and a low center of gravity.


The H3T has an approximate approach angle (A) of 37.1 degrees and a departure angle (B) of 31 degrees, depending on suspension packages.


Design specifications required a minimum gradeability of 60% (31 degrees) slope, with the vehicle fully loaded, on high friction surfaces with maximum vehicle speed not to exceed 6 mph (9.7 km/h). The vehicle is expected to traverse this grade only for short durations. Never stop and idle the vehicle or park it on this grade.


The H3 has an approximate approach angle (A) of 37.4 degrees and a departure angle (B) of 34.7 degrees, depending on suspension packages.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-17


3. If wheel spin is experienced, maintain steady throttle, with your foot off the brake pedal, to allow the Traction Control System (TCS) to control the wheel spin. TCS might not operate if the brakes are applied. 4. If wheel spin cannot be controlled


by the TCS system, fully press the brake pedal with your left foot so all wheel spin is stopped. 5. Back away from the obstacle so that a new approach can be tried.


6. As the first wheel crosses the


obstacle, be prepared to alternate the brake and accelerator pedal to maintain control and avoid tire drop-off from obstacles. Repeat this process for the other wheels.


The vehicle should be able to traverse a 40% (22 degrees) side slope at 6 mph (9.7 km/h) while fully loaded on high friction surfaces.


The vehicle can climb a 16 inch (40.6 cm) vertical step. Step climbing is best done by approaching the step at an angle rather than straight on. Brake and Accelerator Operation Techniques for Off-Road Driving For logs, walls, rocks, severe ditches, hills, sand, etc. 1. Bring the vehicle to a complete


stop. Do not rev the engine.


2. Select the proper transmission


and transfer case gear range; usually 1 (First) gear, Four-Wheel-Low Lock for such obstacles.


4-18


Driving Your Vehicle


For mounds, washouts, loose up-hill slopes, ditches, etc. When wheel spin occurs as the vehicle is moving, the driver may notice a slight shaking or shuddering of the vehicle. This should be stopped as soon as possible to prevent damage to vehicle components. This is the indication that a loss of traction is occurring on this terrain. The operator should: 1. Reduce speed and apply


the brakes.


2. Assess the terrain properly and adjust vehicle speed and gear ranges accordingly: Four-Wheel High position for higher speeds and Four-Wheel-Low Lock for more torque and lower speeds. Transmission 1 (First) gear is generally recommended.


3. Apply slight pressure to the brake when the shaking or shuddering sensation is felt, keeping the vehicle moving in a controlled manner.


4. Be prepared to alternate between braking and accelerating through the adverse terrain.


Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It is a good idea to practice in an area that is safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-roading requires some new and different skills. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. Use your arms, hands, feet, and body to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.


Controlling the vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control the vehicle is to control the speed. At higher speeds: (cid:129) You approach things faster and


have less time to react. There is less time to scan the terrain for obstacles. The vehicle has more bounce when driving over obstacles.


(cid:129) More braking distance is needed, especially on an unpaved surface.


{ CAUTION


When you are driving off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you are driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.


(cid:129) (cid:129) Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. Be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Surface Conditions: Off-roading surfaces can be hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow, or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the vehicle’s steering, acceleration, and braking in different ways. Depending on the surface, slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances can occur. Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you are not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow, or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself.


Some things to consider:


Is the path ahead clear?


(cid:129) Will the surface texture change


abruptly up ahead?


(cid:129) Does the travel take you uphill or


downhill?


(cid:129) Will you have to stop suddenly or


change direction quickly?


When driving over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands. When driving over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, the wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you cannot control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-19


Off-roading requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits, or signal lights. Use good judgment about what is safe and what is not.


Crossing Obstacles Approach Angle — a Key to Mobility


If you encounter a large dip in the terrain, do not enter straight on; enter at an angle — 15° minimum approach (A), 75° maximum approach angle (B).


(cid:129) 4-20


Driving Your Vehicle


For very large dips, ditches or small washes, coast in, using the engine as a brake (transmission and transfer case lowest gears). Then, use the low ranges in the transmission and transfer case to power out.


Roll The Tires Over Large Rocks


Log Crossing Using the proper technique, the vehicle will cross logs up to 10 inches (25.4 cm) in diameter. Approach the log at approximately a 15° angle (A) with the transmission in 1 (First) and the transfer case in Four-Wheel-Low Lock and “walk” the vehicle over, one tire at a time. It may be necessary to modulate the brake pedal and accelerator to avoid spin-out. Ease the vehicle down from the log with the brake.


Do not straddle large rocks; drive over them, letting the tire cover the rock. The tread of the tire is thicker and tougher than the sidewall of the tire and is more resilient to impact than underbody components.


Driving on Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what the vehicle can and cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.


{ CAUTION


Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you cannot control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, do not drive the hill.


Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, decide if it is too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you might not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs. Consider this as you approach a hill:


Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping?


Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you will not have to make turning maneuvers?


(cid:129) Are there obstructions on the hill


that can block your path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts? (cid:129) What is beyond the hill? Is there


a cliff, an embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.


See “Hill Start Assist” under Braking on page 4-3 for information on vehicles stopped on a grade.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-21


Driving Uphill Once you decide it is safe to drive up the hill: (cid:129) Use transmission and transfer case low gear and get a firm grip on the steering wheel.


(cid:129) Get a smooth start up the hill


and try to maintain speed. Not using more power than needed can avoid spinning the wheels or sliding. Let the traction system work to control any wheel slippage. The traction control system allows for moderate wheel spin with some capability to dig in and power up the hill.


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) 4-22


Driving Your Vehicle


(cid:129) Do not continue if the vehicle


shudders or exhibits suspension hopping. This can cause damage to the driveline or suspension components. Improper driving technique is not covered by the vehicle warranty.


{ CAUTION


Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.


Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.


(cid:129) Ease up on the speed as you


approach the top of the hill.


(cid:129) Attach a flag to the vehicle to be


more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.


(cid:129) Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to let opposing traffic know you are there.


(cid:129) Use headlamps even during the


day to make the vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.


{ CAUTION


Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.


If the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot make it up the hill: (cid:129) Push the brake pedal to stop the


vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards and apply the parking brake. If the engine is still running, shift the transmission to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in R (Reverse). If the engine has stopped running, you need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed, apply the parking brake. If the vehicle has an automatic transmission, shift the transmission to P (Park). Restart the engine. Then, shift to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in R (Reverse).


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Driving Your Vehicle


4-23


{ CAUTION


Shifting the transfer case to Neutral can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). This is because the Neutral position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to P (Park). But do not shift the transfer case to Neutral.


(cid:129) While backing down the hill, put


your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position so you can tell if the wheels are straight and can maneuver as you back down. It is best to back down the hill with the wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.


Things not to do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, when going up a hill: (cid:129) Never attempt to prevent a stall


by shifting into N (Neutral) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. The vehicle can roll backward very quickly and could go out of control.


(cid:129) Never try to turn around if about


to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall the vehicle, it is steep enough to cause it to roll over. If you cannot make it up the hill, back straight down the hill. If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake. If the vehicle has an automatic transmission, shift to P (Park). Turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to Neutral when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.


4-24


Driving Your Vehicle


Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, consider: (cid:129) How steep is the downhill? Will I


be able to maintain vehicle control?


(cid:129) What is the surface like?


Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel? (cid:129) Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders?


(cid:129) What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?


If you decide you can go down a hill safely, try to keep the vehicle headed straight down. Use a low gear so engine drag can help the brakes so they do not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping the vehicle under control at all times.


{ CAUTION


Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.


Things not to do when driving down a hill: (cid:129) When driving downhill, avoid


turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down might be too steep to drive across. The vehicle could roll over.


(cid:129) Never go downhill with the


transmission in N (Neutral), called free-wheeling. The brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.


Vehicles are much more likely to stall when going uphill, but if it happens when going downhill: 1. Stop the vehicle by applying the


regular brakes and apply the parking brake.


2. With an automatic transmission,


shift to P (Park). While still braking, restart the engine.


3. Shift back to a low gear, release


the parking brake, and drive straight down.


4. If the engine will not start, get


out and get help.


Driving Across an Incline An off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. To decide whether to try to drive across the incline, consider the following:


{ CAUTION


Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.


(cid:129) A hill that can be driven


straight up or down might be too steep to drive across. When going straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels —reduces the likelihood


the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when driving across an incline, the narrower track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — might not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels which could cause a downhill slide or a rollover. (cid:129) Surface conditions can be a


problem. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause the tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-25


(cid:129) Hidden obstacles can make the


steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, the vehicle can tilt even more.


For these reasons, carefully consider whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. If you feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. The best way to prevent this is to “walk the course” first, so you know what the surface is like before driving it.


4-26


Driving Your Vehicle


Stalling on an Incline { CAUTION


Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.


If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.


Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do not get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick, turning is more difficult, and braking distances are longer. It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck. When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.


Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause it to slide out of control.


{ CAUTION


Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.


Driving in Water


{ CAUTION


Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.


Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution.


Find out how deep the water is before driving through it. Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get through. Deep water can damage the axle and other vehicle parts. The vehicle is capable of depths up to 20 inches (50 cm). Know how to judge whether the water is deeper than this before proceeding into it. If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When going through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it might take longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-29.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-27


After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the engine and oil coolers for mud accumulation. Thoroughly and carefully clean these devices to allow proper cooling. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. The vehicle requires more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.


4-28


Driving Your Vehicle


Assist Steps If your vehicle has removable side steps, remove the steps prior to off-roading to give your vehicle more ground clearance and to prevent damage to the vehicle from the side steps dragging and/or catching on obstacles. Notice: Do not drive off-road with the side steps attached to your vehicle. You can damage the side steps and/or your vehicle’s frame if they get caught or drag against an obstacle. This damage would not be covered by your vehicle’s warranty. Always remove the side steps prior to any off-road driving.


Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside rearview mirror.


(cid:129) Slow down and keep more space


between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.


(cid:129) Watch for animals.


(cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.


(cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass


on your vehicle clean — inside and out.


(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving,


especially during turns or curves. No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-29


Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping


equipment in good shape.


(cid:129) Keep the windshield washer fluid


reservoir filled.


(cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread


depth. See Tires on page 5-44. Turn off cruise control.


Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.


{ CAUTION


Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally.


(Continued)


CAUTION (Continued)


Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.


(cid:129) 4-30


Driving Your Vehicle


Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows clean — inside and outside?


(cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape?


Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to recommended pressure?


(cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to


travel? Have up-to-date maps?


Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead and to the sides.


(cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and


vehicle instruments often.


Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle serviced


and in good shape.


(cid:129) Check all fluid levels and brakes,


tires, cooling system, and transmission.


(cid:129) Going down steep or long hills,


shift to a lower gear.


{ CAUTION


If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) { CAUTION


Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.


(cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).


(cid:129) Pay attention to special road


signs (falling rocks area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.


See Off-Road Driving on page 4-13
for information about driving off-road.


Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels


Driving Your Vehicle


4-31


to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. The Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-7 improves the ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When driving through deep snow, turn off the traction control system to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-5 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement.


(cid:129) 4-32


Driving Your Vehicle


Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.


Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Service on page 7-6. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:


Turn on the Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-5. Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.


{ CAUTION


Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:


(cid:129) Clear away snow from


around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. (cid:129) Check again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there.


(cid:129) Open a window about two


inches (5 cm) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air. (cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on


or under the instrument panel.


(Continued)


CAUTION (Continued)


(cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control


system to a setting that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.


For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-31. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust.


(cid:129) (cid:129) Driving Your Vehicle


4-33


If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-34. If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.


{ CAUTION


If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-65.


Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful. To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat. Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel.


4-34


Driving Your Vehicle


Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. The traction control system activates when the system senses that the wheels are spinning. Turn off any traction or stability system. With the wheels straight ahead, shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission, between 1 (First) or 2 (Second) and R (Reverse), spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. The recovery loops can be


used. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-40.


Recovery Loops


{ CAUTION


These loops, when used, are under a lot of force. Keep people away from the vicinity of the loops and any chains or cables during use. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the loops at a sideways angle. The loops could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.


Notice: Never use the recovery loops to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.


The vehicle has two recovery loops at the front of the vehicle and one at the rear of the vehicle. Use them if the vehicle is stuck off-road and needs to be pulled to some place where the driver can continue driving.


Two labels on the vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.


{ CAUTION


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-35


Tire and Loading Information Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door latch post.


If the vehicle has a brush guard, never tow or apply any loads onto the brush guard.


Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight the vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options.


4-36


Driving Your Vehicle


The Tire and Loading Information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the vehicle’s original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-44
and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-51. There is also important information on the Certification/Tire label. It tells Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section.


Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The


combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.


2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


4. The resulting figure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750
(5 x 150) = 650 lbs).


5. Determine the combined


weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a


trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-42 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety, and trailering tips.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-37


Example 1


Example 2


Example 3


A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for


Example 1 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).


B. Subtract Occupant Weight


150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = 300 lbs (136 kg).


C. Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 700 lbs (317 kg).


A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for


Example 2 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).


B. Subtract Occupant Weight


150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = 750 lbs (340 kg).


C. Available Cargo


Weight = 250 lbs (113 kg).


A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for


Example 3 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).


B. Subtract Occupant Weight


200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).


C. Available Cargo


Weight = 0 lbs (0 kg).


Refer to the vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about the vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions.


4-38


Driving Your Vehicle


The combined weight of the driver, passengers, cargo and any accessories or equipment added to the vehicle after it left the factory should never exceed the vehicle’s capacity weight. Certification/Tire Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is attached to the bottom section of the center pillar (B-pillar), on the driver’s side of the vehicle. The label shows the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all


{ CAUTION


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change the weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load the vehicle the right way.


occupants, fuel, cargo and trailer tongue weight, if pulling a trailer. The Certification/Tire label also tells the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on the front and rear axles, go to a weigh station and weigh the vehicle. Your dealer/retailer can help with this. Be sure to spread out the load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for the vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. If the load is heavy, it should be spread out. Similar appearing vehicles may have different GVWRs and capacity weights. Please note the vehicle’s Certification/Tire label or consult your dealer/retailer for additional details.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-39


There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving on page 4-13. Truck-Camper Loading Information Your vehicle was not designed to carry a slide-in camper.


CAUTION (Continued)


(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


(cid:129) Do not leave an


unsecured child restraint in your vehicle.


(cid:129) When you carry something


inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to.


Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. If you put things inside your vehicle – like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else – they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


{ CAUTION


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:129) Put things in the cargo


area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.


(Continued)


4-40


Driving Your Vehicle


Towing Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Service on page 7-6
To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes — such as behind a motorhome, see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” — towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, and


“dolly towing” — towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”. Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What is the towing capacity of


the tow vehicle? Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:129) What is the distance that will be travelled? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Is the proper towing equipment going to be used? See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations.


Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-30.


Dinghy Towing


This full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle can be dinghy towed from the front. These vehicles can also be towed by placing them on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground. These vehicles cannot be towed using a dolly.


(cid:129) (cid:129) 5. Shift the transfer case to


N (Neutral). See Full-Time Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-24
for the proper procedure to select the N (Neutral) position for the vehicle.


6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the tow vehicle.


7. Make sure the ignition is in


ACC/ACCESSORY.


When towing the vehicle for extended periods of time, start the vehicle as often as possible to prevent battery drain. This should only be done when the tow vehicle is parked. After towing, see “Shifting Out of NEUTRAL” under Full-Time Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-24.


Use the following procedure to tow the vehicle: 1. Put the transmission in P (Park) for an automatic transmission or in 1 (First) for a manual transmission.


2. Turn the engine off, but leave the


ignition in ACC/ACCESSORY.


3. Firmly set the parking brake. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being


towed to the tow vehicle. { CAUTION


Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the automatic transmission is in P (Park) or the manual transmission is in any gear. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral).


Driving Your Vehicle


4-41


Dolly Towing


Notice: Dolly towing the vehicle will damage drivetrain components. Do not dolly tow the vehicle. The vehicle cannot be dolly towed. If the vehicle must be towed behind another vehicle, use the dinghy towing procedure explained previously.


4-42


Driving Your Vehicle


Towing a Trailer


{ CAUTION


The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.


Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.


The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer.


Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:129) Consider using a sway control.


See “Hitches” later in this section.


(cid:129) (cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


(cid:129) Vehicles with an automatic


transmissions can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. For vehicles with a manual transmission, it is better not to use the highest gear. This vehicle has a Hill Start Assist feature, which may be useful when the vehicle is stopped on a grade. See Braking on page 4-3 for more information. Three important considerations have to do with weight:


The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The weight on the vehicle’s tires


Driving Your Vehicle


4-43


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information.


(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) 4-44


Driving Your Vehicle


Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The


weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.


Use the following chart to determine how much the vehicle can weigh, based upon the vehicle model and options.


Vehicle


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


*GCWR


H3


3.7L L5 Engine, Automatic Transmission 3.7L L5 Engine, Manual Transmission 5.3L V8 Engine, Automatic Transmission


H3T


3.7L L5 Engine, Automatic Transmission 3.7L L5 Engine, Manual Transmission 5.3L V8 Engine, Automatic Transmission


4.56


4.56


4.10


4.56


4.56


4.10


4,500 lbs (2 041 kg)


9,500 lbs (4 309 kg)


3,000 lbs (1 361 kg)


8,000 lbs (3 629 kg)


6,000 lbs (2 721 kg)


11,400 lbs (5 171 kg)


4,400 lbs (1 996 kg)


9,500 lbs (4 309 kg)


2,900 lbs (1 315 kg)


8,000 lbs (3 629 kg)


5,900 lbs (2 676 kg)


11,400 lbs (5 171 kg)


*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) in the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for the vehicle should not be exceeded.


Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance


Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-4 for more information.


Driving Your Vehicle


4-45


If the spare tire carrier is mounted on the back of the vehicle and the hitch extension is too short, the spare tire may interfere with trailer coupling or trailer tongue jack operation on some types of trailers. After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer.


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle.If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35
for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 500 lbs (227 kg) with a weight carrying hitch or a weight distributing hitch. Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for the vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle.


4-46


Driving Your Vehicle


Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Certification/Tire Label located on the B-pillar below the door latch or see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-35. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If using a weight distributing hitch, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit before applying the weight distribution spring bars.


Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed.


Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches


(A) Body-to-Ground Distance (B)


Front of Vehicle


When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle. Trailering may also be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR


(Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight can reduce the trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example:

Loading...
x