2009 Hummer H2 Owners Manual

in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information.

5-5

California Fuel If the vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.

Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.

5-6

For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits from fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines.

Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.

Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) This vehicle can use either unleaded gasoline or 85% ethanol fuel (E85). We encourage the use of E85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops. Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (www.eere.energy.gov/ afdc/infrastructure/locator.html) that can help you find E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. By definition, this means that fuel labeled E85
will have an ethanol content between 70% and 85%. Filling the fuel tank with fuel mixtures that do not meet ASTM specifications can affect driveability and could cause the malfunction indicator lamp to come on. To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting

on E85, it could be because the E85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to the fuel tank can improve starting. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. It is best not to alternate repeatedly between gasoline and E85. If you do switch fuels, it is recommended that you add as much fuel as possible — do not add less than three gallons (11 L) when refueling. You should drive the vehicle immediately after refueling for at least seven miles (11 km) to allow the vehicle to adapt to the change in ethanol concentration. E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to refill the fuel tank more often when using E85
than when you are using gasoline. See Filling the Tank on page 5-8. Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85 fuel and can harm the vehicle’s fuel system. Do not add anything to E85. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty.

5-7

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.

Filling the Tank

{ CAUTION:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off the engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.

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The fuel cap is located on the driver side of the vehicle.

{ CAUTION:

Open the door to access the fuel cap. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether, if it has one. If the vehicle has E85 fuel capability, the fuel cap will be yellow and state that E85 or gasoline can be used. See Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 5-7.

Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-105. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40.

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The TIGHTEN GAS CAP message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56 for more information.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

{ CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

(cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

{ CAUTION:

If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get

Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-40.

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while

pumping fuel.

Checking Things Under the Hood

{ CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

5-11

Hood Release To open the hood:

2. Pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle to the lower left of the steering column.

1. Release both hood side latches.

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3. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull the

assist handles toward you to lift the hood.

4. Pull the hood open until it is supported by the

cables.

Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. To close the hood: 1. Hold up the hood a few inches from the closed position and then let it go so that it has enough force to engage the hood latch.

2. Pull up on the assist handles to be sure that the

hood is latched.

3. Latch both hood side latches.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 6.2L V8 engine here is what you will see:

5-14

A. Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling System on

page 5-27.

B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Air Filter Restriction

Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.

C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding

Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-37.

D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-15.

E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-15.

F. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. G. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-23.

H. Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on

page 5-27.

I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump

Starting on page 5-42.

J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Out of View).

See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-36.

K. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on

page 5-42.

L. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under

Brakes on page 5-38.

M. Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-113. N. Battery on page 5-41.

Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil level at each fuel fill. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If this is not done, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

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When to Add Engine Oil

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for the location of the engine oil fill cap.

If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-117. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things:

(cid:129) GM6094M

Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.

(cid:129) SAE 5W-30

SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

(cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol

Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Cold Temperature Operation If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required specification, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information.

5-17

Engine Oil Additives / Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all that is needed for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system flushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.

Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed.

When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, the oil must be changed at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

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How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Engine Oil Life System: 1. Display the OIL LIFE REMAINING on the DIC. 2. Press and hold the SET/RESET button on the DIC for more than five seconds. The oil life will change to 100%.

If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the Engine Oil Life System has not reset. Repeat the procedure.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter and the air filter restriction indicator, if equipped.

When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter If the vehicle is equipped with an air filter restriction indicator, it lets you know when the engine air cleaner/ filter needs to be replaced. On vehicles with a restriction indicator, you should inspect the air filter restriction indicator at every oil change and replace the engine air cleaner/filter when the indicator tells you to. On vehicles without an air filter restriction indicator, you should inspect the air cleaner/filter at every oil change and replace it at the first oil change after 100,000 miles (160 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information.

If you spray water into the engine air

Notice: cleaner/filter intake and water enters the engine air cleaner/filter housing, as shown in the illustration, you could damage your vehicle’s engine. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not spray water into the engine air cleaner/filter intake and/or housing.

5-20

How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Vehicles With an Air Filter Restriction Indicator Locate the air filter restriction indicator on the engine air duct. When the indicator turns black or is in the red/orange change zone, replace the filter and reset the indicator. See “Inspecting the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator” later in this section for further instructions. Vehicles Without an Air Filter Restriction Indicator To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove it from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the engine air cleaner/filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. See “Inspecting the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator” later in this section for further instructions.

Inspecting the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator

1. Loosen the screws on the engine air cleaner/filter

cover.

5-21

4. Clean the air cleaner/filter sealing surfaces and the

housing.

5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 6. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. 7. Reset the air filter restriction indicator, if equipped,

by pressing the top button on the indicator. If the vehicle is not equipped with the air filter restriction indicator, refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See Additional Required Services on page 6-6.

2. Lift the cover upward and set it aside. 3. Pull the air cleaner/filter up and out from the air

cleaner housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.

5-22

{ CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can

Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid It is usually not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. The only reason for fluid loss is a transmission leak or overheating the transmission. If you suspect a small leak, then use the following checking procedures to check the fluid level. However, if there is a large leak, then it may be necessary to have the vehicle towed to a dealer/ retailer service department and have it repaired before driving the vehicle further. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in the Maintenance Schedule. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

5-23

How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Before checking the fluid level, prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Start the engine and park the vehicle on a level

surface. Keep the engine running.

2. Apply the parking brake and place the shift lever in

P (Park).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, move the shift lever back to P (Park).

4. Allow the engine to idle (500 – 800 rpm) for at least

one minute. Slowly release the brake pedal.

5. Keep the engine running and press the Trip/Fuel

button or trip odometer reset stem until TRANS TEMP (Transmission Temperature) displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC).

5-24

6. Using the TRANS TEMP reading, determine and

perform the appropriate check procedure. If the TRANS TEMP reading is not within the required temperature ranges, allow the vehicle to cool, or operate the vehicle until the appropriate transmission fluid temperature is reached.

Cold Check Procedure Use this procedure only as a reference to determine if the transmission has enough fluid to be operated safely until a hot check procedure can be made. The hot check procedure is the most accurate method to check the fluid level. Perform the hot check procedure at the first opportunity. Use this cold check procedure to check fluid level when the transmission temperature is between 80°F and 90°F (27°C and 32°C).

1. Locate the transmission

dipstick at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger side of the vehicle.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for more information.

2. Flip the handle up, and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

3. Install the dipstick by pushing it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and then pull it back out again. 4. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading.

5. If the fluid level is below the COLD check band, add only enough fluid as necessary to bring the level into the COLD band. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5L). Do not overfill.

6. Perform a hot check at the first opportunity after

the transmission reaches a normal operating temperature between 160°F to 200°F (71°C to 93°C). 7. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way, then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Hot Check Procedure Use this procedure to check the transmission fluid level when the transmission fluid temperature is between 160°F and 200°F (71°C and 93°C). The hot check is the most accurate method to check the fluid level. The hot check should be performed at the first opportunity in order to verify the cold check. The fluid level rises as fluid temperature increases, so it is important to ensure the transmission temperature is within range.

1. Locate the transmission

dipstick at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger side of the vehicle.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for more information.

2. Flip the handle up, and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

3. Install the dipstick by pushing it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and then pull it back out again. 4. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading.

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Consistency of Readings Always check the fluid level at least twice using the procedures described. Consistency is important to maintaining proper fluid level. If fluid is added, it may take 15 minutes or longer to obtain an accurate reading because of residual fluid draining down the dipstick tube. If inconsistent readings persist, check the transmission breather to be sure it is clean and not clogged. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer/retailer.

5. Safe operating level is within the HOT cross hatch

band on the dipstick. If the fluid level is not within the HOT band, and the transmission temperature is between 160°F and 200°F (71°C and 93°C), add or drain fluid as necessary to bring the level into the HOT band. If the fluid level is low, add only enough fluid to bring the level into the HOT band. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5L). Do not overfill.

6. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way, then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

{ CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. Check the coolant level after the system cools down. Some amount of coolant may be lost due to overheating.

A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan

5-27

The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

{ CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, the vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-35 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-31 for more information.

5-28

If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

{ CAUTION:

{ CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

5-29

{ CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

1. Locate the coolant

surge tank pressure cap that has this label.

2. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure

cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, are no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

3. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

5-30

4. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture,

to the FULL COLD mark.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains the cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-33. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature.

Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.

5-31

5. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.

6. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

7. Verify coolant level after engine is shut off and the

coolant is cold. If necessary, repeat coolant fill procedure steps 1 through 7.

(cid:129) What Kind of Coolant to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{ CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

Notice: If an improper coolant mixture is used, the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check the cooling system. Notice: in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13 for more information.

If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used

5-32

Checking Coolant

The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location.

{ CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

{ CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated. Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on the vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-39. In addition, you will find an ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE and an ENGINE POWER IS REDUCED message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) on the instrument panel. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56.

5-33

If Steam Is Coming From the Engine

{ CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop the engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-35 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

If the engine catches fire while driving with

Notice: no coolant, the vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-35 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From the Engine The ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE message, along with a low coolant condition, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-55.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) If you get the ENGINE COOLANT HOT message with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn on the heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the windows as necessary. 2. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to N (Neutral);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving — D (Drive).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the ENGINE POWER IS REDUCED message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows the vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-15.

5-35

Power Steering Fluid

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on

the dipstick.

The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage the vehicle and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

5-36

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Your vehicle has a message that comes on when the washer fluid is low. The message is displayed for 15 seconds at the start of each ignition cycle if the fluid is low. When the CHECK WASHER FLUID message is displayed, you will need to add washer fluid to the windshield washer fluid reservoir. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56 for more information.

Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow

the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location.

5-37

(cid:129) Do not top off the brake fluid. Adding fluid does not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{ CAUTION:

If too much brake fluid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check the brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

Brakes Brake Fluid

The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down:

The brake fluid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the fluid level goes back up.

(cid:129) A fluid leak in the brake hydraulic system can also

cause a low fluid level. Have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.

5-38

(cid:129) Checking Brake Fluid Check brake fluid by looking at the brake fluid reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14.

{ CAUTION:

The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add Use only new DOT-3 brake fluid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake

hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If brake fluid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-105.

5-39

(cid:129) Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 5-117. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear.

Brake Wear This vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal firmly.

{ CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed.

Battery This vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

5-41

Vehicle Storage

{ CAUTION:

Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-42 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

{ CAUTION:

Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This helps keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice: damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

5-42

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in N (Neutral) before setting the parking brake.

If you leave the radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (−) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery.

The remote positive (+) terminal is located near the engine accessory drive bracket. On some vehicles, the terminal may be covered by a red plastic cover. To access the remote positive (+) terminal, open the cover, if equipped.

5-43

The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the engine accessory drive bracket and is marked GND (Ground).

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for more information on the location of the remote terminals.

{ CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5-44

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive terminal (+) if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal, if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.

{ CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 12 inches (30 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Your vehicle’s remote negative (−) terminal is marked GND.

5-45

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for awhile.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

If the jumper cables are connected or

Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

5-46

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover, if

equipped, to its original position.

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. All axle assemblies are filled by volume of fluid during production. They are not filled to reach a certain level. When checking the fluid level on any axle, variations in the readings can be caused by factory fill differences between the minimum and the maximum fluid volume. Also, if a vehicle has just been driven before checking the fluid level, it may appear lower than normal because fluid has traveled out along the axle tubes and has not drained back to the sump area. Therefore, a reading taken five minutes after the vehicle has been driven will appear to have a lower fluid level than a vehicle that has been stationary for an hour or two. Remember that the rear axle assembly must be supported to get a true reading.

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Four-Wheel Drive Transfer Case It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to change the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. When the differential is cold, the proper level is from 5/8 inch to 1-5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.

5-48

How to Check Lubricant

2. Add fluid if necessary.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

3. Reinstall the filler plug. Use care not to overtighten

the filler plug. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.

A. Filler Plug B. Drain Plug 1. Remove the filler plug (A). The fluid level should be just below the bottom of the filler plug hole located on the transfer case. To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

5-49

How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

When the differential is cold, the proper level is from about 1/4 inch (6 mm) to about 3/8 inch (10 mm) below the filler plug hole.

5-50

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-55. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.

Halogen Bulbs

{ CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Headlamps To replace a headlamp bulb: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-12. 2. Locate the affected headlamp on the inner front

portion of the hood.

3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the headlamp assembly.

4. Unplug the electrical

connector.

5. Pull the old bulb straight out of the bulb socket. 6. Push the new bulb socket into the headlamp

assembly aligning the bulb socket with the headlamp assembly. Do not to touch the bulb with your fingers or hands.

7. Turn the bulb socket retainer clockwise to lock it

into place.

8. Plug in the electrical connector.

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Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps To replace a front turn signal or parking lamp bulb: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-12.

2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the lamp housing.

Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) To replace a daytime running lamp bulb:

1. Locate the lamp

assembly behind the front bumper through the wheel opening.

3. Pull the bulb from the bulb socket. 4. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it

clicks.

5. Turn the bulb socket clockwise until it locks into

place.

2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove

it from the lamp housing.

3. Remove the bulb from the bulb socket. 4. Push the new bulb straight in the bulb socket until it

clicks.

5. Reinstall the bulb socket into the lamp housing and

turn it clockwise until it locks.

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Roof Marker Lamps Corner Roof Marker Lamps To replace one of these bulbs:

5. Turn the bulb socket clockwise into the lamp

assembly until it locks into place.

6. Place the side of the lens with the slotted end into

the notch first and then tighten the screw.

Center Roof Marker Lamps To replace one of these bulbs:

1. Remove the screw and lift off the lens. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise pull it out of

the lamp assembly.

3. Pull the old bulb straight out of the bulb socket. 4. Push the new bulb straight into the bulb socket until

it connects.

1. Push in on the notch with a flat tool and pull the

lamp out.

2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove

it from the lamp housing.

3. Pull the old bulb straight out of the bulb socket. 4. Push the new bulb straight into the bulb socket until

it connects.

5. Place the slotted end of the lamp in place on one

side and push the other end of the lamp down until it locks in place.

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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps

3. Remove the two

screws from the rear lamp assembly and remove the rear lamp assembly.

4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it

from the taillamp housing.

5. Pull the bulb straight out from the socket. 6. Press a new bulb into the socket, insert it into the

taillamp housing and turn the socket counterclockwise until it is locked in place.

7. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly and tighten the

screws.

8. Reinstall the taillamp guard by lining up the guard with the holes in vehicle. Then install and tighten the four screws.

A. Stoplamp/Taillamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-Up Lamp

To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the liftgate or tailgate. See Liftgate (SUV) on

page 2-13 or Tailgate/Spare Tire Carrier on page 2-16.

2. If the vehicle has the taillamp guard, remove the four retaining screws. Do not remove the plastic retainers.

5-54

The vehicle may have a taillamp in the bumper. To replace it:

Replacement Bulbs

1. Locate the affected

taillamp which is behind and under the bumper.

2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove

it from the lamp housing.

3. Remove the bulb from the bulb socket. 4. Install the new bulb into the bulb socket. 5. Reinstall the bulb socket into the lamp housing and

turn it clockwise to lock it.

Exterior Lamp

Back-up Lamp Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp Low-Beam and High-Beam Headlamps Taillamp and Stoplamp Rear Taillamp in Bumper Rear Turn Signal Lamp Roof Marker Lamp Center Roof Marker Lamp Corner

Bulb Number

3156K

4114K LCP

4157K or 3157KX

9007

3057K 3057K 3156K

168
194

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.

5-55

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly:

1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.

5-56

2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C). 3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper

arm until you hear the release lever click into place.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer.

{ CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:129) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:129) Underinflated tires pose the same danger

as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63.

(cid:129) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.

5-57

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical LT-Metric tire sidewall.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

5-58

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual configuration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44. (D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (E) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the first two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

5-59

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44.

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Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

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Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-71.

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-74. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44.

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Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much flexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road hazards

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the pressure of the spare tire. See Spare Tire on page 5-101 for additional information.

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How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability.

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Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-66 for additional information.

Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation.

The TPMS operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.

Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.

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Tire Pressure Monitor Operation This vehicle may have a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). The TPMS is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle.

When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster.

At the same time a message to check the pressure in a specific tire appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. Using the DIC, tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and

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Displays (Using DIC Buttons) on page 3-47 or DIC Operation and Displays (Using Trip Odometer Reset Stem) on page 3-52 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63. Your vehicle’s TPMS can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-69 and Tires on page 5-57. Notice: Liquid tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. Sensor damage caused by using a tire sealant is not covered by your warranty. Do not use liquid tire sealants.

TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: (cid:129) One of the road tires has been replaced with the spare tire. The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor. The TPMS sensor matching process was started but not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.

(cid:129) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching