2009 Hummer H2 Owners Manual

where they should be, and that the spare tire is fully inflated.

(cid:129) Be sure to read all the information about four-wheel-drive vehicles in this manual.

(cid:129) Make sure any equipment you may need — first aid

kit, cell phone, flashlight, etc. — is securely stored in the vehicle.

(cid:129) Remove any removable side steps. See Assist

Steps on page 4-33.

(cid:129) Make sure all underbody shields, if the vehicle has

them, are properly attached.

(cid:129) Know the local laws that apply to off-roading where

you will be driving or check with law enforcement people in the area.

(cid:129) Be sure to get the necessary permission if you will

be on private land.

4-15

There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.

The heaviest things should be on the floor, forward of the rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.

(cid:129) Be sure the load is properly secured, so things are

not tossed around.

You will find other important information under Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44 and Tires on page 5-57.

Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving

{ CAUTION:

(cid:129) Cargo on the load floor piled higher than the

seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.

(cid:129) Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be

tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.

(cid:129) Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s

center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.

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(cid:129) Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment: (cid:129) Always use established trails, roads, and areas that

have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving and obey all posted regulations. (cid:129) Avoid any driving practice that could damage shrubs,

flowers, trees, or grasses or disturb wildlife. This includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees, or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground.

(cid:129) Always carry a litter bag and make sure all refuse is

removed from any campsite before leaving. Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted), camp stoves, and lanterns.

(cid:129) Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other

combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.

Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Check to see if there are any blocked or closed roads. It is also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle in case something happens to one of them. For vehicles with a winch, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck but you will want to know how to use it properly.

4-17

(cid:129) High Mobility Characteristics The vehicle has a 10 inch (25.4 cm) running ground clearance (A) and a 9 inch (22.8 cm) axle to ground clearance (B) while maintaining a low silhouette and a low center of gravity.

4-18

The vehicle has an approximate approach angle (A) of 42° and a departure angle (B) of 37°.

Design specifications required a minimum gradeability of 60% (31°) slope, with the vehicle fully loaded, on high friction surfaces at 6 mph (9.7 km/h). The vehicle is expected to traverse this grade only for short durations. Never stop and idle the vehicle or park it on this grade.

4-19

The vehicle should be able to traverse a 40% (22°) side slope at 6 mph (9.7 km/h) while fully loaded on high friction surfaces.

The vehicle can climb a 16 inch (40.6 cm) vertical step. Step climbing is best done by approaching the step at an angle rather than straight on.

4-20

Brake and Accelerator Operation Techniques for Off-Road Driving For logs, walls, rocks, severe ditches, hills, sand, etc. 1. Bring the vehicle to a complete stop. Do not rev the

engine.

2. Select the proper transmission and transfer case gear range; usually 1 (First) gear, 4LO LOCK for such obstacles.

3. If wheel spin is experienced, maintain steady throttle,

with your foot off the brake pedal, to allow the Traction Control System (TCS) to control the wheel spin. TCS might not operate if the brakes are applied.

4. If wheel spin cannot be controlled by the TCS, fully

press the brake pedal with your left foot so all wheel spin is stopped.

5. Back away from the obstacle so that a new

approach can be tried.

6. As the first wheel crosses the obstacle, be prepared

to alternate the brake and accelerator pedal to maintain control and avoid tire drop-off from obstacles. Repeat this process for the other wheels.

For mounds, washouts, loose up-hill slopes, ditches, etc. When wheel spin occurs as the vehicle is moving, the driver may notice a slight shaking or shuddering of the vehicle. This should be stopped as soon as possible to prevent damage to vehicle components. This is the indication that a loss of traction is occurring on this terrain. The operator should: 1. Reduce speed and apply the brakes. 2. Assess the terrain properly and adjust vehicle

speed and gear ranges accordingly: 4HI position for higher speeds and 4LO LOCK for more torque and lower speeds. Transmission 1 (First) gear is generally recommended.

3. Apply slight pressure to the brake when the shaking or shuddering sensation is felt, keeping the vehicle moving in a controlled manner.

4. Be prepared to alternate between braking and

accelerating through the adverse terrain.

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Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It is a good idea to practice in an area that is safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-roading requires some new and different skills. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. Use your arms, hands, feet, and body to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce. Controlling the vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control the vehicle is to control the speed. At higher speeds: (cid:129) You approach things faster and have less time

to react. There is less time to scan the terrain for obstacles. The vehicle has more bounce when driving over obstacles.

(cid:129) More braking distance is needed, especially on an

unpaved surface.

{ CAUTION:

When you are driving off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you are driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. Be familiar with the terrain and its many different features.

Surface Conditions: Off-roading surfaces can be hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow, or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the vehicle’s steering, acceleration, and braking in different ways. Depending on the surface, slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances can occur.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) Crossing Obstacles Approach Angle — a Key to Mobility If you encounter a large dip in the terrain, do not enter straight on; enter at an angle — 15° minimum approach (A), 75° maximum approach angle (B). For very large dips, ditches or small washes, coast in, using the engine as a brake (transmission and transfer case lowest gears). Then, use the low ranges in the transmission and transfer case to power out.

Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you are not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow, or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself.

Some things to consider:

Is the path ahead clear?

(cid:129) Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? (cid:129) Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (cid:129) Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction

quickly?

When driving over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands. When driving over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, the wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you cannot control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking. Off-roading requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits, or signal lights. Use good judgment about what is safe and what is not.

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(cid:129) Roll The Tires Over Large Rocks

Do not straddle large rocks; drive over them, letting the tire cover the rock. The tread of the tire is thicker and tougher than the sidewall of the tire and is more resilient to impact than underbody components.

Log Crossing Using the proper technique, the vehicle will cross logs up to 10 inches (25.4 cm) in diameter. Approach the log at approximately a 15° angle (A) with the transmission in 1 (First) and the transfer case in 4LO LOCK and “walk” the vehicle over, one tire at a time. It may be necessary to modulate the brake pedal and accelerator to avoid spin-out. Ease the vehicle down from the log with the brake.

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Driving on Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what the vehicle can and cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

{ CAUTION:

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you cannot control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, do not drive the hill.

Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, decide if it is too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you might not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs. Consider this as you approach a hill:

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping? Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you will not have to make turning maneuvers?

(cid:129) Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your

path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts?

(cid:129) What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an

embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Driving Uphill Once you decide it is safe to drive up the hill: (cid:129) Use transmission and transfer case low gear and

get a firm grip on the steering wheel.

(cid:129) Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain speed. Not using more power than needed can avoid spinning the wheels or sliding. Let the traction system work to control any wheel slippage. The traction control system allows for moderate wheel spin with some capability to dig in and power up the hill.

(cid:129) Do not continue if the vehicle shudders or exhibits

suspension hopping. This can cause damage to the driveline or suspension components. Improper driving technique is not covered by the vehicle warranty.

{ CAUTION:

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

(cid:129) Ease up on the speed as you approach the top of

the hill.

(cid:129) Attach a flag to the vehicle to be more visible to

approaching traffic on trails or hills.

(cid:129) Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill

to let opposing traffic know you are there.

(cid:129) Use headlamps even during the day to make the

vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) { CAUTION:

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

If the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot make it up the hill: (cid:129) Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep

it from rolling backwards and apply the parking brake. If the engine is still running, shift the transmission to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in R (Reverse).

If the engine has stopped running, you need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed, apply the parking brake. If the vehicle has an automatic transmission, shift the transmission to P (Park). Restart the engine. Then, shift to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in R (Reverse).

(cid:129) While backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position so you can tell if the wheels are straight and can maneuver as you back down. It is best to back down the hill with the wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

4-27

(cid:129) (cid:129) Things not to do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, when going up a hill: (cid:129) Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into

N (Neutral) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. The vehicle can roll backward very quickly and could go out of control.

(cid:129) Never try to turn around if about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall the vehicle, it is steep enough to cause it to roll over. If you cannot make it up the hill, back straight down the hill.

If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake, shift to P (Park), and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to Neutral when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

{ CAUTION:

Shifting the transfer case to Neutral can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). This is because the Neutral position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to P (Park). But do not shift the transfer case to Neutral. Leave the transfer case in the 4 HI, 4 HI Lock, or 4 LO Lock position.

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Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, consider: (cid:129) How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain

vehicle control?

(cid:129) What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?

Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

(cid:129) Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs?

Boulders?

(cid:129) What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks? If you decide you can go down a hill safely, try to keep the vehicle headed straight down. Use a low gear so engine drag can help the brakes so they do not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping the vehicle under control at all times.

{ CAUTION:

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

Things not to do when driving down a hill: (cid:129) When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down might be too steep to drive across. The vehicle could roll over.

(cid:129) Never go downhill with the transmission in

N (Neutral), called free-wheeling. The brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

Vehicles are much more likely to stall when going uphill, but if it happens when going downhill: 1. Stop the vehicle by applying the regular brakes and

apply the parking brake.

2. Shift to P (Park). While still braking, restart the

engine.

3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,

and drive straight down.

4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.

4-29

(cid:129) Surface conditions can be a problem. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause the tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over.

(cid:129) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the

incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, the vehicle can tilt even more.

For these reasons, carefully consider whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. If you feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. The best way to prevent this is to “walk the course” first, so you know what the surface is like before driving it.

Driving Across an Incline An off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. To decide whether to try to drive across the incline, consider the following:

{ CAUTION:

Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.

(cid:129) A hill that can be driven straight up or down

might be too steep to drive across. When going straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when driving across an incline, the narrower track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — might not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels which could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

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Stalling on an Incline

{ CAUTION:

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over. Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do not get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick, turning is more difficult, and braking distances are longer. It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck.

When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers. Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause it to slide out of control.

{ CAUTION:

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

4-31

Driving in Water

{ CAUTION:

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.

Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before driving through it. Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get through. Deep water can damage the axle and other vehicle parts. The vehicle is capable of depths up to 20 inches (50 cm). Know how to judge whether the water is deeper than this before proceeding into it.

If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When going through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it might take longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-34. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the engine and oil coolers for mud accumulation. Thoroughly and carefully clean these devices to allow proper cooling. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. The vehicle requires more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

4-32

Assist Steps If your vehicle has removable side steps, remove the steps prior to off-roading to give your vehicle more ground clearance and to prevent damage to the vehicle from the side steps dragging and/or catching on obstacles. Notice: Do not drive off-road with the side steps attached to your vehicle. You can damage the side steps and/or your vehicle’s frame if they get caught or drag against an obstacle. This damage would not be covered by your vehicle’s warranty. Always remove the side steps prior to any off-road driving.

Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside

rearview mirror.

(cid:129) Slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.

(cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle

clean — inside and out.

(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or

curves.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.

4-33

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:129) Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled. (cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires

on page 5-57. Turn off cruise control.

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.

{ CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

4-34

(cid:129) Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows

clean — inside and outside?

(cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape?

Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to recommended pressure?

(cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have

up-to-date maps?

Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead

and to the sides.

(cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments

often.

4-35

(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:129) Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling

system, and transmission.

(cid:129) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a

lower gear.

{ CAUTION:

If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.

{ CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.

(cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut

across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).

(cid:129) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks

area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-15 for information about driving off-road.

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(cid:129) Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

The Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9
improves the ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When driving through deep snow, turn off the traction control system to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-5 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.

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Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Service on page 7-7. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:

Turn on the Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6. Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.

{ CAUTION:

Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:

(cid:129) Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe.

(cid:129) Check again from time to time to be sure

snow does not collect there.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

4-38

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:129) Open a window about two inches (5 cm) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air.

(cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or under the

instrument panel.

(cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting

that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.

For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-45. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust.

Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful. To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat.

(cid:129) (cid:129) Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel.

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-40. If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.

{ CAUTION:

If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-77.

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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. The traction control system activates when the system senses that the wheels are spinning. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. Or, you can use the recovery loops. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-50.

Recovery Loops

{ CAUTION:

These loops, when used, are under a lot of force. Keep people away from the vicinity of the loops and any chains or cables during use. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the loops at a sideways angle. The loops could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

Notice: Never use the recovery loops to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

4-40

Rear of Vehicle

Front of Vehicle

Your vehicle may have recovery loops at the front and rear of the vehicle. You may need to use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

4-41

First Aid Kit and Tool Kit If the vehicle has a first aid and tool kit, it is located in the storage bin behind the spare tire on SUV models. It is held in place with a hook and loop fastener strap. On SUT models, the kit is in the rear cargo compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle.

The kit includes a first aid kit, a flashlight, a tire pressure gage, and a multi-purpose tool set.

The tire pressure gage has a reset button in the gage stem. After taking a pressure reading, press the button to reset the gage to zero.

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Front Mounted Receiver

This vehicle is equipped with a front mounted receiver. The receiver can be used with a power winch platform (described later in this section) or with other accessories. Never use the front mounted receiver to tow a trailer.

Power Winch Platform You can use the power winch platform (if equipped) with an aftermarket winch. Connect the winch to the platform and wiring to the vehicle following the winch manufacturer’s guidelines. Notice: Do not use the winch platform to winch at a tension of more than 9,000 lbs. (4 082 kg). This would damage your vehicle’s frame. This damage would not be covered by your vehicle’s warranty. If you are using a winch to pull out another vehicle, follow the winch manufacturer’s guidelines and observe the following to prevent damage to your vehicle:

If possible, have your vehicle anchored from the opposite side of the winch to a solid, immovable object. If winching from the front, use both of the rear recovery loops. If winching from the rear, use both of the front recovery loops.

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(cid:129) Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.

{ CAUTION:

Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.

(cid:129) Put your transmission in N (Neutral). (cid:129) Use your regular brakes to hold your vehicle in

place and block the wheels to keep the vehicle from moving.

Notice: Using a power winch with the transmission in gear to pull out another vehicle may damage the transmission. When operating a power winch, always leave the transmission in N (Neutral). Notice: Driving your vehicle through an automatic car wash with the winch installed, can cause damage to your vehicle and the car wash. Always remove the winch from your vehicle before using an automatic car wash. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-105 for more information. If you are using a winch to pull out your own vehicle, follow the winch manufacturer’s guidelines for self recovery and observe the following to prevent damage to your vehicle: (cid:129) Do not self recover your vehicle by wrapping the winch cable around an object (such as a pulley block or tree) and attaching it back to your vehicle’s recovery loops.

(cid:129) Always attach the winch cable directly to a solid anchor directly in front of your vehicle to achieve a straight line pull.

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Tire and Loading Information Label

Label Example

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker).

The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-57 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-63. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section.

4-45

Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver

and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.

3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.

4. The resulting figure equals the available

amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).

5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.

6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load

from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle.

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See Towing a Trailer on page 4-55 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.

Example 1

Item

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

300 lbs (136 kg)

700 lbs (317 kg)

Example 2

Example 3

Item

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

Total

Item

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

750 lbs (340 kg)

250 lbs (113 kg)

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

0 lbs (0 kg)

Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.

4-47

Certification/Tire Label

A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR).

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To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

{ CAUTION:

Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading. The label will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry.

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

{ CAUTION:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

(cid:129) Put things in the cargo area of your

vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like

suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. (cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint

in your vehicle.

(cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless

you need to.

There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving on page 4-15. Add-On Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you can carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle. The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It does not include the weight of the people inside. But you can figure about 150 lbs (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.

4-49

Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?

Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

(cid:129) What is the distance that will be travelled? Some

vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow. Is the proper towing equipment going to be used? See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-35.

Towing

Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/ retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Service on page 7-7. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes — such as behind a motorhome, see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing. Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) Dinghy Towing

This full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle can be dinghy towed from the front. These vehicles can also be towed by placing them on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground. These vehicles cannot be towed using a dolly. Use the following procedure to tow the vehicle: 1. Shift the transmission to P (Park). 2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition in

ACC/ACCESSORY.

3. Firmly set the parking brake. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow

vehicle.

{ CAUTION:

Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). The driver or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral).

5. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See Full-Time

Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-37 for the proper procedure to select the N (Neutral) position for the vehicle.

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle

being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

7. Turn the ignition to ACC/ACCESSORY. 8. Disconnect the battery if the vehicle will be towed

for long distances or long periods of time.

When towing the vehicle for extended periods of time, start the vehicle as often as possible to prevent battery drain. This should only be done when the tow vehicle is parked.

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Dolly Towing

Selectable Extended Rear Ride Height If the vehicle has this feature it comes as part of the electronically controlled air suspension system. The selectable rear ride height allows the rear of the vehicle to be raised about 2 inches (5 cm) over the normal ride height. This can be helpful when driving off-road where more ground clearance may be needed to clear an obstacle.

The button that controls this feature is located on the instrument panel to the right of the steering wheel.

The vehicle cannot be dolly towed. If the vehicle must be towed behind another vehicle, use the dinghy towing procedure explained previously. Notice: Dolly towing the vehicle will damage drivetrain components. Do not dolly tow the vehicle.

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To use this feature, ensure that the following conditions are met:

The engine must be running.

(cid:129) All doors must be fully closed. The suspension will

not raise or lower if a door is open. The vehicle speed must be less than 40 mph (64 km/h). The system will not activate otherwise. Press the height control button to raise the rear of the vehicle. A light in the button will begin to flash as the rear of the vehicle rises. Once the extended height has been reached (this may take up to a minute), the warning light will stop flashing and will stay lit while the vehicle is at the extended height. To lower the vehicle to the normal ride height, press the button again. The light in the button will flash as the suspension lowers. When the light in the button stops flashing and goes out, the suspension has reached the normal ride height. This feature will lower the vehicle to the normal height if vehicle speed exceeds 40 mph (64 km/h). This feature may also be used when ascending, descending or cresting a steep hill to help prevent the rear bumper from dragging on the base of the hill or prevent the vehicle from grounding out (high centering) on the crest of the hill. Do not use this feature when towing a trailer.

Electronically Controlled Air Suspension System With this feature, the electronically controlled air suspension keeps the rear of the vehicle level under all load conditions. The system maintains the vehicle at the currently selected ride height. There are two ride heights: Normal Ride Height and Extended Ride Height. The Extended Ride Height feature is only available if the vehicle speed is below 40 mph (64 km/h). If the vehicle is at Extended Ride Height and the speed exceeds 40 mph (64 km/h), the system will automatically return the vehicle to Normal Ride Height.

The activation and deactivation of the Extended Ride Height feature is controlled by this switch on the instrument panel.

4-53

(cid:129) (cid:129) The system includes a compressor, two height sensors and two air springs supporting the vehicle. The system is activated when the engine is started and deactivated when the ignition is returned to OFF. The engine must be running for the rear of the vehicle to be raised and the doors must be closed to enable a transition between Normal Ride Height and Extended Ride Height. The compressor may be heard while the system is active and the release of air similar to a hissing sound may also be heard. This is normal. Load leveling will not function normally with the inflater hose attached to the inflator outlet. Remove the hose from the outlet when it is not in use. See Accessory Inflator on page 5-78.

Overload and Overheat Protection Overload protection is designed to protect the air suspension system and is an indication to the driver that the vehicle is overloaded. If the rear suspension remains at a low height, the rear axle load has exceeded GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). When the overload protection mode is activated, the compressor operates for about 30 seconds to one minute without raising the vehicle depending on the amount of overload. This will continue each time the ignition is turned on until the rear axle load is reduced below GAWR. The system may reactivate without cycling the ignition if some of the excess load is removed. If the total rear GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) is reached, the suspension may be slightly less than level. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with the air suspension. In some instances the compressor may stop working due to being overheated. This is normal. In the instance of an abnormal overheat condition though the compressor will stop working and the SERVICE SUSPENSION SYSTEM will be displayed on the DIC. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-56 for more information.

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Towing a Trailer

{ CAUTION:

The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer.

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Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

(cid:129) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later

in this section.

(cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles

(800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

(cid:129) Vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission

to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. See “Tow/Haul Mode” following.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The weight on the vehicle’s tires

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Use the following chart to determine how much the vehicle can weigh, based upon the vehicle model and options.

Engine

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

**GCWR

6.2L V8 (SUV)

6.2L V8 (SUT)*

3.73

3.73

8,200 lbs (3 720 kg)

15,000 lbs (6 804 kg)

8,200 lbs (3 720 kg)

15,000 lbs (6 804 kg)

*Sport utility truck (SUT) models are neither designed nor intended to tow 5th wheel or gooseneck trailers. **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) in the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for the vehicle should not be exceeded.

Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-6 for more information.

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

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The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 600 lbs (272 kg) with a weight carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 1,000 lbs (454 kg) with a weight distributing hitch.

Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for the vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. The spare tire carrier is behind the tailgate. If the hitch extension is too short, the spare tire may interfere with trailer coupling or trailer tongue jack operation on some types of trailers. After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce the trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight.

Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:

Expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle is greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).

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It is important that the vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh the vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-44 for more information. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If using a weight distributing hitch, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit before applying the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed.

If the vehicle has many options and there is a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. 300 lbs (136 kg) could be added to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. The vehicle now weighs:

Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you might think 700 additional pounds (318 kg) should be subtracted from the trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. The maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think the tongue weight should be limited to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But the effect on the rear axle must still be considered. Because the rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs (408 kg) can be put on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight that can be handled. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, expect that the largest trailer the vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).

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Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches

A: Body to Ground Distance

B: Front of Vehicle When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle.

If a step-bumper hitch will be used, the bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper. If the loaded trailer being pulled will weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when driving. Always use a sway control if the trailer will weigh more than these limits. Ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. If the trailer being towed weighs up to the vehicle’s trailer rating limit, safety chains may be attached to the attaching point on the hitch platform. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

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Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” later in the section. Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: (cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

through rolling terrain.

(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

in stop and go traffic.

(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.

Operating the vehicle in Tow/Haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

Tow/Haul Mode

Pressing this button at the end of the shift lever turns on and off the tow/haul mode.

This indicator light on the instrument panel cluster comes on when the tow/haul mode is on.

Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. See Tow/Haul Mode on page 2-36 for more information.

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Trailer Brakes A loaded trailer that weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg) needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Since the vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, the trailer brakes cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. Driving with a Trailer

{ CAUTION:

When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

To maximize safety when towing a trailer:

(cid:129) Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks and make necessary repairs before starting a trip.

(cid:129) Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or

rear-most window open.

(cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or under the

instrument panel.

(cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting that brings in only outside air and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.

For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-45.

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself.

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Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

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Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel flash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also flash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. Vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. The tow/haul mode may be used if the transmission shifts too often. See Tow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-44. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If the engine is turned off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, the vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with the automatic transmission in P (Park) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If the overheat warning comes on, see Engine Overheating on page 5-33.

4-65

Parking on Hills

{ CAUTION:

Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.

If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer

wheels.

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking

brake and shift into P (Park).

5. Be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear and not

in N (Neutral).

6. Release the brake pedal.

4-66

{ CAUTION:

It can be dangerous to get out of the vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in P (Park) with the parking brake firmly set. The vehicle can roll. If the engine has been left running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure the vehicle will not move, even when on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in P (Park) with the parking brake firmly set.

Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you:

(cid:129) Start the engine (cid:129) Shift into a gear (cid:129) Release the parking brake

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the

chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See this manual’s Maintenance Schedule or Index for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Wiring Harness Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Harness Package

The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Taillamps (cid:129) White: Ground

Light Green: Back-up Lamps

(cid:129) Red/Black: Battery Feed* (cid:129) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake* *There is a location in the Underhood Fuse Block for these circuits, but they are not connected. They should be connected, and proper fuses installed, by your dealer/retailer or a qualified service center. If charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, press the Tow/Haul mode button located at the end of the shift lever. This will boost the vehicle system voltage and properly charge the battery.

The vehicle is equipped with the seven-wire trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform.

4-67

(cid:129) Electric Brake Control Wiring Provisions These wiring provisions are included with the vehicle as part of the trailer wiring package. These provisions are for an electric brake controller. The instrument panel contains blunt cut wires near the data link connector for the trailer brake controller. The harness contains the following wires: (cid:129) Dark Blue: Brake Signal to Trailer Connector (cid:129) Red/Black: Battery

Light Blue/White: Brake Switch

(cid:129) White: Ground It should be installed by your dealer/retailer or a qualified service center.

Trailer Recommendations Subtract the hitch loads from the Cargo Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight of the load the vehicle can carry. It does not include the weight of the people inside, but you can figure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each passenger. The total cargo load must not be more than the vehicles CWR. Weigh the vehicle with the trailer attached, so the GVWR or GAWR are not exceeded. If using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place. The best performance is obtained by correctly spreading out the weight of the load and choosing the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information see Towing a Trailer on page 4-55.

4-68

(cid:129) Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of

the Vehicle .................................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) ..................................5-7
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-8
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-11
Hood Release ..............................................5-12
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-14
Engine Oil ...................................................5-15
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-18
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-20
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-23
Cooling System ............................................5-27
Engine Coolant .............................................5-31
Engine Overheating .......................................5-33

Overheated Engine Protection

Operating Mode .........................................5-35
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-36
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-37
Brakes ........................................................5-38
Battery ........................................................5-41
Jump Starting ...............................................5-42
Rear Axle .......................................................5-47
Four-Wheel Drive ............................................5-48
Front Axle ......................................................5-49
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-50
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-50
Headlamps ..................................................5-51
Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps ..............5-52
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) .......................5-52
Roof Marker Lamps ......................................5-53
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and

Back-up Lamps .........................................5-54
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-55
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-56
Tires ..............................................................5-57
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-58
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-60
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-63
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-64

5-1

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-66
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-69
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-71
Buying New Tires .........................................5-72
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-74
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-74
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-76
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-76
Tire Chains ..................................................5-77
Accessory Inflator .........................................5-78
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-79
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-80
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools (SUT) .......5-82
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools (SUV) .......5-86
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the

Spare Tire ................................................5-90
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools (SUT) ...5-95
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools (SUV) ...5-98
Spare Tire .................................................5-101
Appearance Care ..........................................5-102
Interior Cleaning .........................................5-102
Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-103
Leather ......................................................5-104
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic

Surfaces .................................................5-104
Wood Panels ..............................................5-104

5-2

Speaker Covers ..........................................5-105
Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-105
Weatherstrips .............................................5-105
Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-105
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-106
Finish Care ................................................5-106
Windshield, Backglass, and Wiper Blades .......5-107
Aluminum Wheels .......................................5-107
Tires .........................................................5-108
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-108
Finish Damage ...........................................5-108
Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-108
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-108
Vehicle Identification .....................................5-109
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................5-109
Service Parts Identification Label ...................5-109
Electrical System ..........................................5-109
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-109
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-110
Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-110
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-110
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ........................5-111
Center Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..............5-112
Underhood Fuse Block ................................5-113
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-117

Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Damage to vehicle components resulting from the installation or use of non-GM certified parts, including control module modifications, are not covered under the terms of the vehicle warranty and may affect remaining warranty coverage for affected parts. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-79.

5-3

California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.

California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.

5-4

Doing Your Own Service Work

{ CAUTION:

You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task.

(cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and

other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-79.

Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 6-17.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. This vehicle can use either unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85). See Gasoline Octane on page 5-5 and Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 5-7.

Gasoline Octane Use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but the vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511