2006 Hummer H2 Owners Manual

Download PDF Manual
damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio! 5-39 4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located near the engine accessory drive bracket. On some vehicles, the terminal may be covered by a red plastic cover. To access the remote positive (+) terminal, open the cover, if equipped. The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the engine accessory drive bracket and is marked GND (Ground). See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on the location of the remote terminals. 5-40 {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive terminal (+) if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal, if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-41 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Your vehicle’s remote negative (−) terminal is marked GND. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for awhile. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-42 To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover, if equipped, to its original position. Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. All axle assemblies are ﬁlled by volume of ﬂuid during production. They are not ﬁlled to reach a certain level. When checking the ﬂuid level on any axle, variations in the readings can be caused by factory ﬁll differences between the minimum and the maximum ﬂuid volume. Also, if a vehicle has just been driven before checking the ﬂuid level, it may appear lower than normal because ﬂuid has traveled out along the axle tubes and has not drained back to the sump area. Therefore, a reading taken ﬁve minutes after the vehicle has been driven will appear to have a lower ﬂuid level than a vehicle that has been stationary for an hour or two. Remember that the rear axle assembly must be supported to get a true reading. 5-43 What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Four-Wheel Drive Transfer Case It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to change the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. When the differential is cold, the proper level is from 5/8 inch to 1-5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough ﬂuid to reach the proper level. 5-44 How to Check Lubricant 2. Add ﬂuid if necessary. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 3. Reinstall the ﬁller plug. Use care not to overtighten the ﬁller plug. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. A. Filler Plug B. Drain Plug 1. Remove the ﬁller plug (A). The ﬂuid level should be just below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole located on the transfer case. To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. 5-45 Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-51. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. When the differential is cold, the proper level is from about 1/4 inch (6 mm) to about 3/8 inch (10 mm) below the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5-46 Headlamps To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11 for more information. 2. Locate the affected headlamp on the inner front portion of the hood. 3. Turn the bulb/ socket retainer counterclockwise to unlock the bulb/socket. You may prefer to unplug the electrical connector before removing the bulb/socket. If so, complete Step 5 before doing this step. 4. Pull the bulb/socket straight out from the headlamp housing. 5. Unplug the electrical connector. 6. Push the new bulb socket into the headlamp assembly making sure to align the splines on the bulb socket with the splines in the headlamp housing. Use care not to touch the bulb with your ﬁngers or hands. 7. Turn the bulb socket retainer clockwise to lock it into place. 8. Plug in the electrical connector. 5-47 Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps To replace a front turn signal or parking lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11 for more information. 2. Locate the bulb you need to change. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the lamp housing. Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) To replace a daytime running lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Locate the lamp assembly behind the front bumper. It is easiest to come in from the side of the vehicle through the wheel opening. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the lamp housing. 3. Remove the bulb from the bulb socket. 4. Install the new bulb into the bulb socket. 5. Reinstall the bulb socket into the lamp housing and turn it clockwise until it locks. 4. Pull the bulb from the bulb socket. 5. Install the new bulb into the bulb socket. 6. Reinstall the bulb socket into the lamp housing and turn it clockwise until it locks. 5-48 Roof Marker Lamps Corner Roof Marker Lamps To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: Center Roof Marker Lamps To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Remove the screw and lift off the lens. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it. 3. Remove the bulb. 4. Install a new bulb into the socket. 5. Reinstall the socket into the lens and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. 6. Hook the side of the lens with the hook end into the notch ﬁrst and then tighten the screw. 1. Push in on the notch with a ﬂat tool and pull the lamp out. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the lamp housing. 3. Remove the bulb from the bulb socket. 4. Install a new bulb into the bulb socket. 5. Place the hook end of the lamp in place on one side and push the other end of the lamp down until it locks in place. 5-49 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps A. Stoplamp/Taillamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-Up Lamp 3. Remove the two screws from the rear lamp assembly and remove the rear lamp assembly. To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate or tailgate. See Liftgate (SUV) on page 2-11 or Tailgate/Spare Tire Carrier on page 2-14 for more information. 2. If your vehicle is equipped with a taillamp guard, you will need to remove it in order to access the taillamp. To do this, remove the four screws retaining the taillamp guard making sure not to remove the plastic retainers. 5-50 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp housing. 5. Pull the bulb straight out from the socket. 6. Press a new bulb into the socket, insert it into the taillamp housing and turn the socket counterclockwise until it is locked in place. 7. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly and tighten the screws. 8. Reinstall the taillamp guard by lining up the guard with the holes in vehicle. Then install and tighten the four screws. Your vehicle may have a taillamp in the bumper. To replace it, do the following: 1. Locate the affected taillamp which is behind and under the bumper. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the lamp housing. 3. Remove the bulb from the bulb socket. 4. Install the new bulb into the bulb socket. 5. Reinstall the bulb socket into the lamp housing and turn it clockwise to lock it. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Back-up Lamp Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp Low-Beam and High-Beam Headlamps Rear Taillamp and Stoplamp Rear Taillamp in Bumper Rear Turn Signal Lamp Roof Marker Lamp 3156 4114K 4157K or 3157KX 9007 3057 3057 3156 168 For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. 5-51 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is facing away from the windshield. 5-52 2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly toward the driver’s side of the vehicle. 3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner Manual. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-53 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire (A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. 5-54 (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-65. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual conﬁguration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. (D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (E) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. 5-55 Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire (A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. 5-56 (A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the ﬁrst two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75% as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. 5-57 Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. 5-58 Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-62. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-65. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: Too much ﬂexing Too much heat Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards 5-59 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they’re underinﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the tire and loading information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. 5-60 Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-62 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-66 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the ratchet/wheel wrench to tighten the wheel nuts. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Five-Tire Rotation Pattern When rotating your vehicle’s tires, always use one of the correct rotation pattern shown here. The ﬁve-tire rotation pattern includes a full-size spare tire and wheel assembly that matches the regular road tires and wheels in size, type, and brand. Four-Tire Rotation Pattern 5-61 After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the tire and loading information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59, for more information. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-124. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70. 5-62 When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators. You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. (cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched speciﬁc tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical speciﬁcations that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by a MS, for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-54 for additional information. {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires) the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on your vehicle’s wheels. 5-63 {CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label. 5-64 Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, antilock brakes; traction control; and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected. {CAUTION: If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM speciﬁc wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certiﬁed technician. See Buying New Tires on page 5-63 and Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for additional information. Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. 5-65 Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. 5-66 If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle. Used Replacement Wheels {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70 for more information. Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. Tire Chains Notice: Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class U-type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the rear axle tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle. 5-67 Accessory Inﬂator Your vehicle may have an accessory inﬂator system. You can inﬂate things like basketballs and bicycle tires. You can also use it to bring your tire pressure up to the proper pressure. The engine must be running and the gearshift lever must be in PARK (P) for the inﬂator to operate. The accessory inﬂator is located in the rear compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. The accessory inﬂator kit includes a hose and three nozzle adapters. To use the accessory inﬂator, do the following: 1. Attach the appropriate nozzle adapter to the end of the hose. 2. Attach that end of the hose to the object you wish to inﬂate. 3. Remove the dust cover and attach the hose to the outlet. 5-68 If your vehicle is equipped with the air suspension system, load leveling will not function with the inﬂator hose attached to the inﬂator outlet. {CAUTION: Inﬂating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inﬂator instructions, and inﬂate any object only to its recommended pressure. The accessory inﬂator hose also has a built-in air pressure gage. As soon as you start to inﬂate an object it will automatically read the current pressure. 4. Press and release the switch to turn the accessory inﬂator on. The indicator light will remain on while the inﬂator is running. When you are ﬁnished using the inﬂator, press and release the switch to turn it off. Place the inﬂator kit tools and the hose back in the pouch. If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. 5-69 A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. {CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a ﬂat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a ﬂat tire. If a tire goes ﬂat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a ﬂat tire safely. Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning ﬂashers. 5-70 {CAUTION: Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear—not in NEUTRAL. 4. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised. 5. Do not allow passengers to remain in the vehicle. To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle. When you have a ﬂat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks. Removing Jack A and Tools (SUT) The following steps will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire. Removing the Spare Tire and Tools (SUT) Your vehicle is equipped with either jack A or jack B and it is stored in the rear cargo compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. The tools for jack A are also stored in the rear cargo compartment. If your vehicle has jack B, the tools are stored under the rear passenger’s seat. To remove the cover, unlock it and then pull the cover off. Remove the tool kit/ﬁrst aid kit to gain access to the tire changing equipment. 5-71 Once it is removed, you will see the following tire changing equipment: To remove the equipment, do the following: 1. Unscrew the wing nut (D) retaining the wheel blocks and remove them. 2. Unscrew the wing nut (C) retaining the jack and remove it. Jack A and Tools A. Tool Bag B. Jack C. Jack Wing Nut D. Wing Nut Retaining Wheel Blocks E. Wheel Blocks 3. Pull the tool bag (A) up and out from the front retention clip. 5-72 4. Open the tool bag. You will ﬁnd the following tools needed to remove the spare tire and change a ﬂat tire: Removing Jack B and Tools (SUT) To remove the cover, unlock it and then pull the cover off. Jack A Tools A. Jack Handle B. Jack Handle Extension (Used for Rear Flats Only) C. Wheel Wrench D. Ratchet Before proceeding, be sure to set the wheel blocks at the appropriate tires as previously shown. Remove the tool kit/ﬁrst aid kit to gain access to the tire changing equipment. 5-73 Once it is removed, you will see the following: Jack B Release the jack by turning the end of the jack handle counterclockwise. To remove the tools, do the following: 1. Pull the bottom of the driver’s side second row seat up to access the tools. See 60/40 Split Bench Seat on page 1-6 for more information. 2. Remove the strap from the seat rail. Then carefully slide the tool bag out from under the seat rail as shown. Take care to not pinch the seat cables or electrical harnesses. 5-74 3. Open the tool bag. You will ﬁnd the following tools needed to remove the spare tire and ﬂat tire: Before proceeding, be sure to set the wheel blocks at the appropriate tires as previously shown. To use a wheel block, lift the wheel block as shown to lock it into place. A. Jack Handle B. Jack Handle Extensions (2) C. Wheel Wrench Jack B Tools D. Wheel Wrench Extension E. Wheel Blocks 5-75 Removing the Spare Tire (SUT) The spare tire is attached to the tire carrier. To remove the spare tire, do the following: 1. Open the tire carrier. See Tailgate/Spare Tire Carrier on page 2-14 for tire carrier operation. 2. Unscrew the wing nut on the back of the tire carrier. 3. Pull off the license plate holder from the spare tire. 4. For jack A, slide the ratchet onto the wheel wrench with the DOWN mark facing you. For jack B, attach the wheel wrench to the wheel wrench extender to remove the wheel nuts. 5-76 Jack A Tools Jack B Tools 5. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Or, turn the wheel wrench with the wheel wrench extender (jack B) counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. 6. Remove the three wheel nuts holding the spare tire onto the tire carrier. 7. Pull off and gently lower the spare tire to the ground. Set it next to the ﬂat tire. 5-77 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools (SUV) Removing the Jack (SUV) Your vehicle is equipped with either jack A or jack B. The jack (A or B) is stored behind the driver’s side second row seat. 1. Fold the driver’s side second row seat down to access the jack. See 60/40 Split Bench Seat on page 1-6 for more information. For jack B, turn the jack handle end counterclockwise to release it. 2. For jack A, turn the wing nut counterclockwise to release it. Then remove the bracket retaining the jack. Jack B 3. Grasp and lift the jack out of the bracket. Jack A 5-78 Removing the Tools (SUV) The equipment you will need is located under the driver’s side second row seat. To remove the equipment, do the following: 1. Make sure nothing is under the front of the driver’s side second row seat. 2. Locate the tools by lifting the driver’s side second row seat up to expose the ﬂoor. See 60/40 Split Bench Seat on page 1-6 for more information. Jack B Tool Bag For the jack B tool bag, remove the strap from the seat rail. Then carefully slide the tool bag out from under the seat rail as shown. Jack A Tool Bag 3. For the jack A tool bag, carefully slide the tool bag under the seat rail to remove it from the vehicle. 5-79 4. Open the tool bag. You will ﬁnd the following tools needed to remove the spare tire and ﬂat tire: A. Jack Handle B. Jack Handle Extensions (2) C. Wheel Wrench Jack B Tools D. Wheel Wrench Extension E. Wheel Blocks Jack A Tools C. Wheel Wrench D. Ratchet A. Jack Handle B. Jack Handle Extension (2) (Used for Rear Flats Only) 5-80 Before proceeding, be sure to set the wheel blocks at the appropriate tires as previously shown. To use the wheel blocks, do the following: For jack A, locate the wheel blocks which are stored behind the jack on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Removing the Spare Tire (SUV) The spare tire is attached to the tire carrier. To remove the spare tire, do the following: 1. Open the tire carrier. See Tailgate/Spare Tire Carrier on page 2-14 for tire carrier operation. For jack B, remove the wheel blocks from the tool bag. Then, lift the wheel block as shown to lock it into place. Jack B Wheel Blocks 2. Unscrew the wing nut on the back of the tire carrier. 5-81 Jack A Tools 5. Turn the ratchet with the wheel wrench (jack A) counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. 3. Pull off the license plate holder from the spare tire. 4. For jack A, slide the ratchet onto the wheel wrench with the DOWN mark facing you. For jack B, attach the wheel wrench to the wheel wrench extender to remove the wheel nuts. 5-82 Jack B Tools Or, turn the wheel wrench with the wheel wrench extender (jack B) counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. 6. Remove the three wheel nuts holding the spare tire onto the tire carrier. 7. Pull off and gently lower the spare tire to the ground. Set it next to the ﬂat tire. Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire (SUT and SUV) Jack A (SUV and SUT) 1. To remove the center cap, place the ﬂat end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and carefully pry the center cap out. 5-83 4. Assemble the jack and tools as follows: Front Flat Tire: Attach the jack handle with the hook end connected to the u-hook/clevis on the jack. Slide the ratchet onto the jack handle with the UP mark facing you. Rear Flat Tire: Assemble the jack together with the jack handle and the jack handle extension. Press with the UP mark facing you. The retention clip on the jack handle extension (arrow) so it engages into the jack handle. Slide the ratchet onto the jack handle extension. 5. Turn the ratchet clockwise to raise the jack head to the lifting point. 2. Slide the ratchet onto the wheel wrench with the DOWN mark facing you. 3. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Do not remove them yet. You will now need to jack the vehicle up using the following instructions. 5-84 6. Front Flat Tire: Position the jack under the vehicle on the frame behind the ﬂat tire where the frame sections overlap. See the following graphic for an approximate measurement of the jack location on the frame. Front Flat Tire – Jack A X = 28.5 inches (72.0 cm) 5-85 {CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. 7. Turn the ratchet clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground. 8. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the ﬂat tire. Rear Flat Tire: Place the jack under the curved rear axle pad. Make sure the jack head is positioned so that the rear axle pad is resting securely on the jack head. Rear Flat Tire – Jack A {CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. 5-86 {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. 9. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. {CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident. 10. Install the spare tire. 11. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. 5-87 12. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the ratchet to tighten the nuts, with the UP mark facing you, clockwise until the wheel is held against the hub. You will not be tightening the nuts fully yet. Front Position – Jack A Rear Position – Jack A 13. Lower the vehicle by turning the ratchet counterclockwise, with the DOWN mark facing you. Then lower the jack completely. 5-88 14. Tighten the nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence as shown by turning the ratchet clockwise, with the UP mark facing you. 15. When you install the wheel and tire, you must also reinstall the center cap. Place the cap on the wheel and tap it into place until it sits ﬂush with the wheel. {CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-124 for wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-124 for the wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. 5-89 Jack B (SUV and SUT) 1. To remove the center cap, place the ﬂat end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and carefully pry the center cap out. 2. Attach the wheel wrench to the extender. 3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Do not remove them yet. You will now need to jack the vehicle up using the following instructions. 5-90 4. Assemble the jack and tools as follows: Front Flat Tire: Attach the jack handle with the hook end connected to the u-hook/clevis on the jack. Slide the wheel wrench onto the jack handle extension. Rear Flat Tire: Assemble the jack together with the jack handle and the jack handle extensions. Press the retention clip on the jack handle extension (arrow) so it engages into the jack handle. Slide the wheel wrench onto the jack handle extension. 5. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the jack head to the lifting point. 5-91 Front Flat Tire – Jack B 6. Front Flat Tire: Position the jack under the vehicle on the front lower control arm behind the ﬂat tire. See the following graphic for an approximate measurement of the jack location on the frame. X = 28.5 inches (72.0 cm) 5-92 Rear Flat Tire – Jack B Rear Flat Tire: Place the jack under the curved rear axle pad. Make sure the jack head is positioned so that the rear axle pad is resting securely on the jack head. {CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. {CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. 7. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground. 8. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the ﬂat tire. 5-93 {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. 9. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. {CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident. 10. Install the spare tire. 11. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. 5-94 12. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the wheel wrench to tighten the nuts by turning it clockwise until the wheel is held against the hub. You will not be tightening the nuts fully yet. 13. Lower the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Then lower the jack completely. {CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-124 for wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-124 for the wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. 5-95 14. Tighten the nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence as shown by turning the wheel wrench with the wheel wrench extender clockwise. To store the ﬂat or spare tire on the tire carrier, do the following: 1. Close the tire carrier. See Tailgate/Spare Tire Carrier on page 2-14 for tire carrier operation. 2. Place the ﬂat or spare tire onto the tire carrier with the outside of the wheel facing you. 3. Reinstall the three nuts holding spare or ﬂat tire to the tire carrier. Tighten the nuts by hand. 15. When you install the wheel and tire, you must also reinstall the center cap. Place the cap on the wheel and tap it into place until it sits ﬂush with the wheel. Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools (SUT) Storing the Flat or Spare Tire (SUT) Use the following art and text to help you store the spare or ﬂat tire back into its proper location when you are done. 5-96 Jack A Tools 4. Use the ratchet and wheel wrench (jack A) to tighten the nuts ﬁrmly. Jack B Tools Or, use the wheel wrench and the wheel wrench extension (jack B) to tighten the nuts ﬁrmly. Try to move the tire back and forth slightly to be sure it is secure. 5. Slide the license plate holder onto the spare or ﬂat tire. Secure it from the back of the tire carrier with the wing nut. If you choose not to reinstall the spare or ﬂat tire on the vehicle, you will still need to reinstall the license plate holder on the spare tire carrier. 5-97 Storing the Jack A and Tools (SUT) Follow these instructions to store jack A and tools: 1. Lower the jack completely. 3. Tighten the wing nut (C) until the jack is securely fastened. In order to reduce the potential of the jack squeaking or rattling, you will need to preload the jack so it ﬁts tightly in the mounting bracket. To do this, turn the u-hook/clevis at the top of the jack clockwise until the jack is held tight in the mounting bracket. 4. Place the wheel blocks (E) onto the mounting stud and tighten the wing nut (D) to secure them. 5. Place the tools in the tool bag (A), roll the bag together tightly and neatly and then close it with the hook and loop fasteners. If you do not roll the tool bag tightly and neatly, you will have trouble getting it back into the storage retention clips in the next step. 2. Place the jack (B) in the mounting bracket in the rear cargo compartment. 5-98 6. Slide the tool bag into the rear retention clip. It may help to twist the tool bag as you slide it into the rear retention clip. 7. Push the front of the tool bag down into the front retention clip. 5-99 Storing the Jack B and Tools (SUT) Follow these instructions to store jack B and tools: 1. Lower the jack completely. 2. Place the jack in the mounting bracket. 8. Replace the jack cover. Be sure the tabs on the back of the jack cover ﬁt into the slots on the cargo box before closing the jack cover. 9. Lock the cover. 10. Close the spare tire carrier to ensure it securely latches. See Tailgate/Spare Tire Carrier on page 2-14 for tire carrier operation. 5-100 3. Turn the u-hook/clevis at the top of the jack clockwise until the jack is held tight in the mounting bracket. 4. Push and pull on the jack and retighten if necessary to make sure the jack is secure. 5. Place the wheel blocks in the tool bag. 6. Place the remaining tools in the tool bag. 7. Make sure nothing is located under or in front of the seat and then lift the rear driver’s seat so that the ﬂoor is exposed. See 60/40 Split Bench Seat on page 1-6 for more information. 8. Place the narrow end of the tool bag under the seat rails as shown. Slide the tool bag under the rear seat. Be careful not to pinch the seat cables or electrical harnesses. 9. Reinstall the strap to the seat rail. 10. Return the seat to the correct position. Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools (SUV) Storing the Flat or Spare Tire (SUV) Use the following art and text to help you store the spare or ﬂat tire back into its proper location when you are done. To store the ﬂat or spare tire on the tire carrier, do the following: 1. Close the tire carrier. See Tailgate/Spare Tire Carrier on page 2-14 for tire carrier operation. 2. Place the ﬂat or spare tire onto the tire carrier with the outside of the wheel facing you. 3. Reinstall the three nuts holding spare or ﬂat tire to the tire carrier. Tighten the nuts by hand. 5-101 Jack A Tools Jack B Tools 4. Use the ratchet and wheel wrench for jack A to tighten the nuts ﬁrmly. Use the wheel wrench and wheel wrench extension for jack B to tighten the nuts ﬁrmly. Try to move the tire back and forth slightly to be sure it is secure. 5-102 Storing the Jack (A or B) and Tools (SUV) Follow these instructions to store the jack A and tools: 1. Lower the jack completely. 2. For jack A, place the wheel blocks together and install behind the jack. 3. Place the jack in the mounting bracket. 5. Slide the license plate holder onto the spare or ﬂat tire. Secure it from the back of the tire carrier with the wing nut. If you choose not to reinstall the spare or ﬂat tire on the vehicle, you will still need to reinstall the license plate holder on the spare tire carrier. Jack A Jack B 4. Tighten the wing nut for jack A until the jack and wheel blocks are securely fastened. For jack B, turn the u-hook/clevis at the top of the jack clockwise until the jack is held tight in the mounting bracket. 5-103 5. Push and pull on the jack and retighten if necessary to make sure the jack is secure. 6. Place the tools in the tool bag. 7. Make sure nothing is located under or in front of the seat and then lift the rear driver’s seat so that the ﬂoor is exposed. See 60/40 Split Bench Seat on page 1-6 for more information. Jack A Tool Bag 8. For the jack A tool bag, place the narrow end of the tool bag under the seat rails as shown and slide the tool bag under the rear seat. 5-104 Jack B Tool Bag For jack B tool bag, place the narrow end of the tool bag under the seat rails as shown and slide the tool bag under the rear seat. Be careful not to pinch the seat cables or electrical harnesses. 9. Reinstall the strap to the seat rail for the jack B tool bag. Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully-inﬂated spare tire. A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inﬂation pressure regularly. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55 for information regarding proper tire inﬂation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70 and Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire (SUT and SUV) on page 5-83. After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare is correctly inﬂated. Have the damaged or ﬂat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, a spare tire will be available in case you need it again. Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior. 5-105 If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners speciﬁcally designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. Notice: glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles. Your GM dealer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. Should it become necessary, you can also obtain a product from your GM dealer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery. Do not clean your vehicle using the following cleaners or techniques: (cid:127) Never use a knife or any other sharp object to remove a soil from any interior surface. (cid:127) Never use a stiff brush. It can cause damage to your vehicle’s interior surfaces. (cid:127) Never apply heavy pressure or rub aggressively with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage your interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal. (cid:127) Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps. Avoid laundry detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide. (cid:127) Do not heavily saturate your upholstery while cleaning. (cid:127) Damage to your vehicle’s interior may result from the use of many organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc. 5-106 Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on ﬂoor carpet and carpeted ﬂoor mats. For soils, always try to remove them ﬁrst with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques: For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed. For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible and then vacuum. To clean, use the following instructions: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with water or club soda. 2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled. 4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the cleaning cloth remains clean. 5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water. If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a small hidden area for colorfastness ﬁrst. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface. After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the fabric or carpet. Leather A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used. Allow the leather to dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. Never use steam to clean leather. Never use spot lifters or spot removers on leather. Many commercial leather cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect leather may permanently change the appearance and feel of your leather and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Never use shoe polish on your leather. 5-107 (cid:127) (cid:127) Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a clean soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used to gently remove dust and dirt. Never use spot lifters or removers on plastic surfaces. Many commercial cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect soft plastic surfaces may permanently change the appearance and feel of your interior and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Some commercial products may increase gloss on your instrument panel. The increase in gloss may cause annoying reﬂections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Wood Panels Use a clean cloth moistened in warm, soapy water (use mild dish washing soap). Dry the wood immediately with a clean cloth. Speaker Covers Vacuum around a speaker cover gently, so that the speaker will not be damaged. Clean spots with just water and mild soap. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry. {CAUTION: Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5-108 Washing Your Vehicle The paint ﬁnish on the vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention, and durability.

Boost Classifieds - Car Advice, Reviews, Events & Classifieds

2006 Hummer H2 Owners Manual