2006 Hummer H2 Owners Manual

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Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

0 lbs (0 kg)

Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.

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Certiﬁcation/Tire Label

A vehicle speciﬁc Certiﬁcation/Tire label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certiﬁcation/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To ﬁnd out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline.

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Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading. The label will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.

If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

{CAUTION:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

(cid:127) Put things in the cargo area of your

vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,

inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint

in your vehicle.

(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down unless

you need to.

There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving on page 4-16.

Add-On Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you can carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle. The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It does not include the weight of the people inside. But you can ﬁgure about 150 lbs (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR. Towing

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

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Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have

restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.

(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-43.

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Dinghy Towing Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition in

ACCESSORY.

3. Firmly set the parking brake. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the

tow vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is ﬁrmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See Full-Time Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-30 for the proper procedure to select the NEUTRAL position for your vehicle.

(cid:127) 6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle

being towed is ﬁrmly attached to the towing vehicle. You can use your vehicle’s front mounted receiver with the proper accessories to tow it. See “Front Mounted Receiver” under If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-50.

7. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY. 8. Disconnect the battery if you are going to tow for

long distances or long periods of time.

When towing your vehicle for extended periods of time, start your vehicle as often as possible to prevent battery drain. This should only be done when the tow vehicle is parked. Dolly Towing Your vehicle cannot be dolly towed. If you must tow your vehicle behind another, use the dinghy towing procedure listed previously. Notice: Dolly towing your vehicle will damage drivetrain components. Do not dolly tow your vehicle.

Selectable Extended Rear Ride Height If your vehicle has this feature it comes as part of the electronically controlled air suspension system. The selectable rear ride height allows you to raise the rear of the vehicle about 2 inches (5 cm) over the normal ride height. This can be helpful when driving off-road where you may need more ground clearance to clear an obstacle.

The button that controls this feature is located on the instrument panel to the right of the steering wheel.

To use this feature, ensure that the following conditions are met:

The engine must be running.

(cid:127) All doors must be fully closed. The suspension will

not raise or lower if a door is open. The vehicle speed must be less than 40 mph (64 km/h). The system will not activate otherwise.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) Press the height control button to raise the rear of the vehicle. A light in the button will begin to ﬂash as the rear of the vehicle rises. Once the extended height has been reached (this may take up to a minute), the warning light will stop ﬂashing and will stay lit while the vehicle is at the extended height. To lower the vehicle to the normal ride height, press the button again. The light in the button will ﬂash as the suspension lowers. When the light in the button stops ﬂashing and goes out, the suspension has reached the normal ride height. This feature will lower the vehicle to the normal height if vehicle speed exceeds 40 mph (64 km/h). You may also want to use this feature when ascending, descending or cresting a steep hill as this can help prevent the rear bumper from dragging on the base of the hill or prevent the vehicle from grounding out (high centering) on the crest of the hill. Do not use this feature when towing a trailer.

Electronically Controlled Air Suspension System The electronically controlled air suspension, if equipped, keeps the rear of your vehicle level as you load and unload it. The system includes a compressor, two height sensor and two air springs supporting the vehicle. The engine must be running for the system to level the vehicle after loading or unloading. The system will suspend leveling if any of the doors are open. Once the doors are closed, system leveling will continue. You may hear the compressor running when you load your vehicle, and periodically as the system adjusts the vehicle to the standard ride height. You may also hear the release of air similar to a hissing sound during suspension operation. This is normal. Load leveling will not function normally with the inﬂator hose attached to the inﬂator outlet. Remove the inﬂater hose from the outlet when it is not in use. See Accessory Inﬂator on page 5-68.

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Overload and Overheat Protection Overload protection is designed to protect the air suspension system and is an indication to the driver that the vehicle is overloaded. If the rear suspension remains at a low height, the rear axle load has exceeded GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). When the overload protection mode is activated, the compressor operates for about 30 seconds to one minute without raising the vehicle depending on the amount of overload. This will continue each time the ignition is turned on until the rear axle load is reduced below GAWR. If the total rear GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) is reached, the suspension may be slightly less than level. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with the air suspension. If the system overheats, it will shut down and stop all leveling functions until the system cools down. During this time the SERVICE AIR SUSPENSION message will appear in the DIC. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-48 for more information.

Towing a Trailer

{CAUTION:

If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section.

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Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later

in this section.

(cid:127) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the ﬁrst 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

(cid:127) You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). See “Tow/Haul Mode” following.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer the weight of the trailer tongue and the weight on your vehicle’s tires

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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Tow/Haul Mode Tow/haul mode is used when using your vehicle to pull a large or heavy load or trailer. Tow/haul is also useful while pulling a load in rolling terrain, in stop-and-go traffic, or when you need improved low-speed control, such as when parking. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to do the following: (cid:127) Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

(cid:127) Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less accelerator pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

Tow/haul mode is most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” later in this section.

Press the button on the instrument panel to the right of the steering wheel to enable the tow/haul mode.

A light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that tow/haul mode has been selected.

Press the button again to turn off tow/haul mode. The indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off tow/haul mode every time it is started. Driving with tow/haul mode activated without a heavy load or with no trailer will cause reduced fuel economy and unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics, but will not cause damage.

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(cid:127) Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information.

Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Use the following chart to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options.

Engine

Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weight

**GCWR

6000 V8 (SUV) 6000 V8 (SUT)* **The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) in the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. *Sport utility truck (SUT) models are neither designed nor intended to tow 5th wheel or gooseneck trailers.

13,500 lbs (6 123 kg) 13,500 lbs (6 123 kg)

6,700 lbs (3 039 kg) 6,600 lbs (2 994 kg)

4.10
4.10

You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet.

In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. If you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 500 lbs (227 kg) with a weight carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 700 lbs (318 kg) with a weight distributing hitch.

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Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. Your spare tire carrier is behind the tailgate. If your hitch extension is too short, the spare tire may interfere with trailer coupling or trailer tongue jack operation on some types of trailers. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may also be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight.

Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:

You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).

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But let’s say your speciﬁc vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:

Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR.

The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll ﬁnd these numbers on the Certiﬁcation label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-55. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.

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If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 268 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when driving. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches

(A) Body-to-Ground Distance (B) Front of Vehicle

When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle.

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Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure. The trailer’s brake system will use less than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of ﬂuid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends the ﬂuid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and ﬁnally break off. Use steel brake tubing. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.

And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. Because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also ﬂash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

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Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode” earlier. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 5-27.

Parking on Hills

{CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the

trailer wheels.

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your

parking brake and shift into PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store

the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission ﬂuid (don’t overﬁll), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you ﬁnd them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Trailer Wiring Harness Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package

Your vehicle is equipped with a trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform.

The trailer towing harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:127) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Brown: Taillamps (cid:127) White: Ground

Light Green: Back-up Lamps Light Blue: Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) (cid:127) Red: Battery Feed (cid:127) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake A jumper harness for an electric trailer brake controller and a trailer battery feed fuse may be included with this trailering package. See “Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness” later in this section. If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way, round pin connector, an adapter may be included. See “Four-Wire Harness Adapter” later in this section.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) If your vehicle has factory or

Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness Notice: dealer-installed HUMMER off-road lamps, the place where an electric trailer brake connection must be made is already in use. Do not attempt to double-up or “piggyback” the connection, because this could cause a failure or damage to your vehicle, the electric trailer brake system, or both. If you want to connect a trailer with electric brakes to your vehicle, see your dealer to disconnect the off-road lamps. Also, read Add-On Electrical Equipment on page 5-114 for more information.

{CAUTION:

Be sure to use only the correct trailer brake harness, the one intended for use on your vehicle. If you use some other trailer brake harness, even if it seems to ﬁt, your trailer brakes may not work at all. You could have a crash in which you or others could be injured. Use only the trailer brake harness intended for your vehicle. If it is no longer available to you, be sure to get a proper replacement from your dealer.

This harness is for an electric brake controller and includes a trailer battery feed fuse. It should be installed by your dealer or a qualiﬁed service center.

This harness may be included with your vehicle as part of the heavy-duty trailer wiring package.

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Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside, but you can ﬁgure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicles CWR. Weigh your vehicle with your trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information see Towing a Trailer on page 4-63.

Connect the adapter with the tab pointing up. The ﬂip cap on the vehicle’s seven-wire harness will lock onto the tab (see arrow in the previous graphic) and help hold the adapter in place. Plug the four-way round pin connector onto the adapter.

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Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modiﬁcations ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of

Your Vehicle ..............................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-14
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-17
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-19
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-22
Engine Coolant .............................................5-24
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-26
Engine Overheating .......................................5-27
Overheated Engine Protection

Operating Mode ........................................5-28

Cooling System ............................................5-29
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-33
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-34
Brakes ........................................................5-35
Battery ........................................................5-38
Jump Starting ...............................................5-39
Rear Axle .......................................................5-43
Four-Wheel Drive ............................................5-44
Front Axle ......................................................5-45
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-46
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-46
Headlamps ..................................................5-47
Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps ..............5-48
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) .......................5-48
Roof Marker Lamps ......................................5-49
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and

Back-up Lamps .........................................5-50
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-51
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-52
Tires ..............................................................5-53
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-54
Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions .....................5-57
Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-59
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-61
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-62

5-1

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Buying New Tires .........................................5-63
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-64
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-65
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-66
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-66
Tire Chains ..................................................5-67
Accessory Inﬂator .........................................5-68
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-69
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-70
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools (SUT) .......5-71
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools (SUV) .......5-78
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the

Spare Tire (SUT and SUV) .........................5-83

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and

Tools (SUT) ..............................................5-96

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and

Tools (SUV) ............................................5-101
Spare Tire .................................................5-105
Appearance Care ..........................................5-105
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle ...............5-105
Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-107
Leather ......................................................5-107
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other

Plastic Surfaces .......................................5-108
Wood Panels ..............................................5-108
Speaker Covers ..........................................5-108

5-2

Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-108
Weatherstrips .............................................5-108
Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-109
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-109
Finish Care ................................................5-110
Windshield, Backglass, and Wiper Blades .......5-110
Aluminum Wheels .......................................5-111
Tires .........................................................5-111
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-112
Finish Damage ...........................................5-112
Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-112
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-112
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ................5-113
Vehicle Identiﬁcation .....................................5-114
Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) ................5-114
Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label ...................5-114
Electrical System ..........................................5-114
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-114
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-115
Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-115
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-115
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ........................5-116
Center Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..............5-118
Underhood Fuse Block ................................5-119
Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-124

Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Accessories and Modiﬁcations When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.

California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.

5-3

Doing Your Own Service Work

{CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and

other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-68. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.

5-4

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle.

Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6
for additional information.

5-5

California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-39. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems.

5-6

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.

Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.

5-7

Filling the Tank

{CAUTION:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.

5-8

The fuel cap is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

Some vehicles may be equipped with a fuel door. Open the door to access the fuel cap. Some vehicles may be equipped with a locking fuel cap. Use the fuel cap key to unlock the fuel cap. If you ever need a replacement key, your dealer can help you get one. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether, if it has one.

{CAUTION:

If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-109. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-39.

The TIGHTEN FUEL CAP message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-48 for more information.

{CAUTION:

If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get

Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-39.

5-9

Checking Things Under the Hood

{CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

{CAUTION:

Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved

containers.

(cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the

inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete.

(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.

5-10

Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

1. Release both hood side latches.

2. Pull the handle with this

symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle to the lower left of the steering column.

3. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull the

assist handles toward you to lift the hood. 4. Pull the hood open until it is supported by

the cables.

Before closing the hood, be sure all ﬁller caps are on properly. To close the hood, do the following: 1. Hold up the hood a few inches from the closed position and then let it go so that it has enough force to engage the hood latch.

2. Pull up on the assist handles to be sure that the

hood is latched.

3. Latch both hood side latches.

5-11

Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 6.0L V8 engine here is what you will see:

5-12

A. Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling System on

page 5-29 and Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-26.

B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Air Filter Restriction

Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-19.

C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding

Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34.

D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-14.

E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 5-14.

F. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-22.

G. Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on

page 5-29.

H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump

Starting on page 5-39.

I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (Out of View). See

Power Steering Fluid on page 5-33.

J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on

page 5-39.

K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under

Brakes on page 5-35.

L. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block

on page 5-119.

M. Battery. See Battery on page 5-38.

5-13

Engine Oil If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC), it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see CHECK OIL LEVEL under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-48. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

5-14

When to Add Engine Oil

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap.

If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-124. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.

5-15

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use

(cid:127) SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M

Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.

You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.

5-16

Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

5-17

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message, see “Engine Oil Life System” under DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-45 for vehicles equipped with the DIC, or do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly

three times within ﬁve seconds. If the OIL LIFE RESET message ﬂashes for 10 seconds, the system is resetting.

3. Turn the key to LOCK. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. If it still does not reset, see your dealer for service.

5-18

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter and the air ﬁlter restriction indicator, if equipped.

If you spray water into the engine air

Notice: cleaner/ﬁlter intake and water enters the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter housing, as shown in the illustration, you could damage your vehicle’s engine. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not spray water into the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter intake and/or housing.

When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter If your vehicle is equipped with an air ﬁlter restriction indicator, it lets you know when the engine air cleaner/ ﬁlter needs to be replaced. On vehicles with a restriction indicator, you should inspect the air ﬁlter restriction indicator at every oil change and replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter when the indicator tells you to. On vehicles without an air ﬁlter restriction indicator, you should inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at every oil change and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after 100,000 miles (160 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information.

5-19

Inspecting the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator

1. Loosen the screws on the engine air

cleaner/ﬁlter cover.

How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Vehicles With an Air Filter Restriction Indicator Locate the air ﬁlter restriction indicator on the engine air duct. When the indicator turns black or is in the red/orange change zone, replace the ﬁlter and reset the indicator. See “Inspecting the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator” later in this section for further instructions. Vehicles Without an Air Filter Restriction Indicator To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove it from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. See “Inspecting the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter and Resetting the Air Filter Restriction Indicator” later in this section for further instructions.

5-20

7. Reset the air ﬁlter restriction indicator, if equipped,

by pressing the top button on the indicator. If your vehicle is not equipped with the air ﬁlter restriction indicator, refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. See Additional Required Services on page 6-6.

{CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off.

If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre

Notice: can cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving.

5-21

2. Lift the cover upward and set it aside. 3. Pull the air cleaner/ﬁlter up and out from the air

cleaner housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.

4. Clean the air cleaner/ﬁlter sealing surfaces and

the housing.

5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 6. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws.

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid.

5-22

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

(cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold ﬂuid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for ﬁve minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the ﬂuid level be low during this cold check, you must check the ﬂuid hot before adding ﬂuid. Checking the ﬂuid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the ﬂuid level.

(cid:127) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The transmission dipstick handle with this graphic is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The ﬂuid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.

4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Consistency of Readings Always check the ﬂuid level at least twice using the procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper ﬂuid level. If inconsistent readings persist, check the transmission breather hose to be sure it is clean and unclogged. If readings are still inconsistent, contact your dealer.

5-23

How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Add ﬂuid only after checking the transmission ﬂuid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. (cid:127) After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.

(cid:127) When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-27. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the ﬁrst maintenance service after each 25,000 miles (41 500 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

5-24

(cid:127) What Kind of Coolant to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

If you use an improper coolant mixture,

Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information.

If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives

5-25

Checking Coolant

The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark.

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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-37. In addition, you will ﬁnd an ENGINE COOLANT HOT, ENGINE OVERHEATED and a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) on the instrument panel. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-48. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-28 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

If your engine catches ﬁre because you

Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-28 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine The ENGINE COOLANT HOT message, along with a low coolant condition, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-63. If you get the ENGINE COOLANT HOT message with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the windows as necessary.

2. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving — DRIVE (D).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.

5-28

If there is still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-14.

(cid:127) (cid:127) Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. Check the coolant level after the system cools down. Some amount of coolant may be lost due to overheating. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle.

5-29

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-28 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-24 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

5-30

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

1. Locate the coolant

surge tank pressure cap that has this label.

2. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure

cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, are no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

3. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

5-31

4. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture,

to the FULL COLD mark.

5. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.

6. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

5-32

Power Steering Fluid

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on

the dipstick.

The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

5-33

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Your vehicle has a message that comes on when the washer ﬂuid is low. The message is displayed for 15 seconds at the start of each ignition cycle if the ﬂuid is low. When the CHECK WASHER FLUID message is displayed, you will need to add washer ﬂuid to the windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-48 for more information.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the

manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

5-34

(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake ﬂuid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

5-35

Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake ﬂuid without taking off the cap.

Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

Look at the brake ﬂuid reservoir. The ﬂuid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.

5-36

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-109.

(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.

5-37

Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-39 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

5-38

Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

or ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice:

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2006 Hummer H2 Owners Manual