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Lights


Check the following:


Headlights (low and high beam) Parking lights Taillights Brake lights Turn signals Back-up lights Hazard light function License plate light Side marker lights Daytime running lights (Canadian cars)


If you find any bulbs are burned out, replace them as soon as possible. Refer to the chart on page 247 to determine what type of replacement bulb is needed.


Maintenance


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Lights


Replacing a Headlight Bulb The low beam headlight bulbs are a type of high voltage discharge tube. High voltage can remain in the circuit even with the light switch off and the key removed. Because of this, you should not attempt to examine or change a low beam headlight bulb yourself. If a low beam headlight bulb fails, take the car to your dealer to have it replaced.


Halogen bulbs are used for the high beam headlight bulbs. When replacing a high beam headlight bulb, handle it by its base and protect the glass from contact with your skin or hard objects. If you touch the glass, clean it with denatured alcohol and a clean cloth.


NOTICE


Halogen headlight bulbs get very hot when lit. Oil, perspiration, or a scratch on the glass can cause the bulb to overheat and shatter.


Maintenance


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Lights


6. Insert the socket back into the headlight assembly. Make sure the bulb is installed correctly by looking through the headlight lens. The pins on the base of the bulb should fit in the holes in the headlight assembly. Pivot the hold- down wire back in place and clip the end into the slot.


7. Install the rubber seal over the


back of the headlight assembly. Make sure it is right side up; it is marked "TOP."


8. Push the electrical connector onto


the new bulb. Turn on the headlights to test the new bulb.


Maintenance


1. Open the hood.


If you need to change the high beam headlight bulb on the left side, remove the coolant reserve tank from its holder by pulling it straight up.


2. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by squeezing the connector to unlock the tab, then slide the connector off the bulb.


3. Remove the rubber weather seal


by pulling on the tab.


4. Unclip the end of the hold-down wire from its slot. Pivot it out of the way and remove the bulb socket.


5. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Lights


Replacing Front Turn Signal and Side Marker Light Bulbs 1. If you are changing the bulb on


the driver's side, start the engine, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, and turn off the engine. If you are changing the bulb on the passenger's side, turn the steering wheel to the left.


Maintenance


2. Use a flat-tipped screwdriver to remove the three holding clips from the inner fender.


3. Pull the inner fender cover back.


4. Remove the socket from the


headlight assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


5. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket.


6. Install the new bulb in the socket.


7. Insert the socket back into the


headlight assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


8. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


9. Put the inner fender in place.


Install the two holding clips. Lock each clip in place by pushing on the center.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Replacing a Side Turn Signal Bulb


1. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry carefully on the back edge of the side turn signal assembly until it pops out of the body.


2. Turn the bulb holder one-quarter


turn counterclockwise to remove it from the lens.


3. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


4. Put the bulb holder back into its


hole in the lens, and turn it clockwise until it locks.


5. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


6. Put the side turn signal assembly


back into the body, front first. Push on the back edge until it snaps into place.


Lights


Maintenance


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Lights


Replacing Rear Bulbs


1. Open the trunk.


2. Remove the fasteners from the


trunk lining. To remove a fastener, push on the center of the head until it pops in. Then pull it out.


3. Pull the lining back.


4. Determine which of the four bulbs is burned out: stop/taillight, back- up light, turn signal, or side marker.


5. Remove the socket by turning it


one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


6. Remove the burned out bulb. To


remove the stop/taillight, back-up or side marker light bulb, pull the bulb straight out of its socket. To remove the turn signal light bulb, push it in and turn it counterclockwise until it unlocks.


Maintenance


tMain MenuTable of Contentss 7. Install the new bulb in the socket.


8. Push the socket into the light


assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks.


9. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


10. Install the trunk lining and secure it with the fasteners. To reinstall a fastener, reset the fastener by pushing on the pointed end until it pops back almost flush with the fingers on the housing. Put the fastener in the hole of the trunk lining and push on the center until it locks (the center is flush with the head).


Lights


Maintenance


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Lights


Replacing a Rear License Plate Bulb


1. Insert a flat blade screwdriver


between the left edge of the lens and the housing. The lens will come down.


2. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb in until it bottoms in the socket.


3. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


4. Put the lens back into the light


assembly, right side first. Push on the left edge until it snaps into place.


Maintenance


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Replacing an Interior Light Bulb


Replacing the Trunk Light Bulb


Lights


1. Remove the lens by carefully


prying on the front edge of the lens near both sides.


2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.


1. Open the trunk. Pull down the


trunk light cover.


3. Push the new bulb into the metal tabs. Snap the lens back in place.


2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.


3. Push the new bulb into the metal


tabs.


4. Push the cover back in place.


Maintenance


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Storing Your Car


If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than one month), there are several things you should do to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. If possible, store your car indoors.


Fill the fuel tank.


Change the engine oil and filter (see page 159).


Wash and dry the exterior completely.


Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry.


Raise the convertible top cover.


Leave the parking brake off. Put the transmission in Reverse.


Maintenance


Block the rear wheels.


If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jackstands so the tires are off the ground.


Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors).


Disconnect the battery.


Support the front wiper blade arms with a folded towel or rag so they do not touch the windshield.


To minimize sticking, apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and trunk seals. Also, apply a vehicle body wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and trunk seals.


Cover the car with a "breathable" cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton. Nonporous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture, which can damage the paint.


If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).


If you store your car for 12 months or longer, have your Honda dealer perform the inspections called for in the 24 months/30,000 miles (48,000
km) maintenance schedule as soon as you take it out of storage (see page 148). The replacements called for in the maintenance schedule are not needed unless the car has actually reached that time or mileage.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Regular cleaning and polishing of your Honda helps to keep it "new" looking. This section gives you hints on how to clean your car and preserve its appearance: the paint, brightwork, wheels and interior. Also included are several things you can do to help prevent corrosion.


Appearance Care


Exterior Care.................................. 204
Washing...................................... 204
Waxing....................................... 205
Aluminum Wheels..................... 206
Paint Touch-up........................... 206
Interior Care................................... 207
Carpeting.................................... 207
Floor Mats.................................. 207
Fabric......................................... 208
Vinyl........................................... 208
Leather....................................... 208
Rear Window............................. 208
Seat Belts................................... 208
Windows..................................... 209
Air Fresheners........................... 209
Corrosion Protection..................... 209
Body Repairs.................................. 211


Appearance Care


stMain Menu Exterior Care


Washing Frequent washing helps preserve your car's beauty. Dirt and grit can scratch the paint, while tree sap and bird droppings can permanently ruin the finish.


Wash your car in a shady area, not in direct sunlight. If the car is parked in the sun, move it into the shade and let the exterior cool down before you start.


Only use the solvents and cleaners recommended in this Owner's Manual.


Appearance Care


NOTICE


Chemical solvents and strong cleaners can damage the paint, metal, and plastic on your car.


Rinse the car thoroughly with cool water to remove loose dirt.


Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild detergent, such as dishwashing liquid or a product made especially for car washing.


Wash the car, using the water and neutral detergent solution and sponge or soft cloth. Start at a top and work your way down. Rinse frequently.


Check the body for road tar, tree sap, etc. Remove these stains with tar remover or turpentine. Rinse it off immediately so it does not harm the finish. Remember to re- wax these areas, even if the rest of


the car does not need waxing. Do not use harsh chemicals to remove stains from the convertible top or rear window. Use a mild detergent/water solution with a soft-bristle brush on the top, and with a soft cloth on the rear window.


When you have washed and rinsed the whole exterior, dry it with a chamois or soft towel. Letting it air-dry will cause dulling and water spots. Make sure the top is completely dry before you fold it.


As you dry the car, inspect it for chips and scratches that could allow corrosion to start. Repair them with touch-up paint (see page 206).


stMain MenuTable of Contents Waxing Always wash and dry the whole car before waxing it. You should wax your car, including the metal trim, whenever water sits on the surface in large patches. It should form into beads or droplets after waxing.


You should use a quality liquid or paste wax. Apply it according to the instructions on the container. In general, there are two types of products:


Waxes — A wax coats the finish and protects it from damage by exposure to sunlight, air pollution, etc. You should use a wax on your Honda when it is new.


Exterior Care


Polishes — Polishes and cleaner/ waxes can restore the shine to paint that has oxidized and lost some of its shine. They normally contain mild abrasives and solvents that remove the top layer of the finish. You should use a polish on your Honda if the finish does not have its original shine after using a wax.


Cleaning tar, insects, etc. with removers also takes off the wax. Remember to re-wax those areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


Appearance Care


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Paint Touch-up Your dealer has touch-up paint to match your car's color. The color code is printed on a sticker on the driver's doorjamb. Take this code to your dealer so you are sure to get the correct color.


Inspect your car frequently for chips or scratches in the paint. Repair them right away to prevent corrosion of the metal underneath. Use the touch-up paint only on small chips and scratches. More extensive paint damage should be repaired by a professional.


Exterior Care


Aluminum Wheels Clean your Acura's aluminum alloy wheels as you do the rest of the exterior. Wash them with the same solution, and rinse them thoroughly.


The wheels have a protective clear- coat that keeps the aluminum from corroding and tarnishing. Using harsh chemicals, including some commercial wheel cleaners, or stiff brushes can damage this clear-coat. Only use a mild detergent and soft brush or sponge to clean the wheels.


Appearance Care


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Floor Mats


Carpeting Vacuum the carpeting frequently to remove dirt. Ground-in dirt will make the carpet wear out faster. Periodically shampoo the carpet to keep it looking new. Use one of the foam-type carpet cleaners on the market. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner, applying it with a sponge or soft brush. Keep the carpeting as dry as possible by not adding water to the foam.


The Genuine Honda driver's floor mat that came with your car was designed to be hooked over the floor mat anchor. This keeps the floor mat from sliding forward and possibly interfering with the pedals.


Interior Care


If you remove the floor mat, make sure to re-anchor it when you put it back in your car.


If you replace it, use a genuine Honda floor mat that is designed to be used with the floor mat anchor in your car.


If you use a non-Honda floor mat in the driver's footwell, make sure it fits properly and that it can be used with the floor mat anchor.


Do not put additional floor mats on top of the anchored mat, otherwise the additional mats may slide forward and interfere with the pedals.


Appearance Care


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Interior Care


Fabric Vacuum dirt and dust out of the material frequently. For general cleaning, use a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water, letting it air dry. To clean off stubborn spots, use a commercially-available fabric cleaner. Test it on a hidden area of the fabric first, to make sure it does not bleach or stain the fabric. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner.


Appearance Care


Vinyl Remove dirt and dust with a vacuum cleaner. Wipe the vinyl with a soft cloth dampened in a solution of mild soap and water. Use the same solution with a soft-bristle brush on more difficult spots. You can also use commercially-available spray or foam-type vinyl cleaners.


Leather Vacuum dirt and dust from the leather frequently. Pay particular attention to the pleats and seams. Clean the leather with a soft cloth dampened with clear water, then buff it with a clean, dry cloth. If further cleaning is needed, use a soap specifically for leather, such as saddle soap. Apply this soap with a damp, soft cloth. Wipe down and buff as described above.


Rear Window Clean the rear window with either clean water or a mild detergent/ water solution and a soft, damp cloth. Never use a brush or dry cloth, and do not use any harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners. You will damage the window.


Polish the rear window periodically with a commercially available plastic polish made especially for convertible rear windows.


Seat Belts If your seat belts get dirty, you can use a soft brush with a mixture of mild soap and warm water to clean them. Do not use bleach, dye, or cleaning solvents. They can weaken the belt material. Let the belts air- dry before you use the car.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Interior Care, Corrosion Protection


Windows Clean the windows, inside and out, with a commercially-available glass cleaner. You can also use a mixture of one part white vinegar to ten parts water. This will remove the haze that builds up on the inside of the windows. Use a soft cloth or paper towels to clean all glass and clear plastic surfaces.


Air Fresheners If you want to use an air freshener/ deodorizer in the interior of your car, it is best to use a solid type. Some liquid air fresheners contain chemi- cals that may cause parts of the interior trim and fabric to crack or discolor.


If you use a liquid air freshener, make sure you fasten it securely so it does not spill as you drive.


Corrosion Protection Two factors normally contribute to causing corrosion in your car:


1. Moisture trapped in body cavities. Dirt and road salt that collects in hollows on the underside of the car stays damp, promoting corrosion in that area.


2. Removal of paint and protective coatings from the exterior and underside of the car.


Appearance Care


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Use a high-pressure spray to clean the underside of your car. This is especially important in areas that use road salt in winter. It is also a good idea in humid climates and areas subject to salt air. Be careful of the ABS wheel sensors and wiring at each wheel.


Have the corrosion-preventive coatings on the underside of your car inspected and repaired periodically.


Corrosion Protection


Many corrosion-preventive measures are built into your Honda. You can help keep your car from corroding by performing some simple periodic maintenance:


Repair chips and scratches in the paint as soon as you discover them.


Inspect and clean out the drain holes in the bottom of the doors and body.


Check the floor coverings for dampness. Carpeting and floor mats may remain damp for a long time, especially in winter. This dampness can eventually cause the floor panels to corrode.


Appearance Care


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Body repairs can affect your car's resistance to corrosion. If your car needs repairs after a collision, pay close attention to the parts used in the repair and the quality of the work.


Make sure the repair facility uses genuine Honda replacement body parts. Some companies make sheet metal pieces that seem to duplicate the original Honda body parts, but are actually inferior in fit, finish, and corrosion resistance. Once installed, they do not give the same high- quality appearance.


When reporting your collision to the insurance company, tell them you want genuine Honda parts used in the repair. Although most insurers recognize the quality of original parts, some may try to specify that the repairs be done with other available parts. You should investi- gate this before any repairs have begun.


Take your car to your authorized Honda dealer for inspection after the repairs are completed. Your dealer can make sure that quality materials were used, and that corrosion- preventive coatings were applied to all repaired and replaced parts.


Body Repairs


Appearance Care


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Taking Care of the Unexpected


This section covers the more- common problems that motorists experience with their vehicles. It gives you information about how to safely evaluate the problem and what to do to correct it. If the problem has stranded you on the side of the road, you may be able to get going again. If not, you will also find instructions on getting your car towed.


Compact Spare Tire....................... 214
Changing a Flat Tire ..................... 215
If Your Engine Won't Start........... 220


Nothing Happens or the


Starter Motor Operates


Very Slowly......................... 220


The Starter Operates


Normally................................. 221
Jump Starting................................. 222
If Your Engine Overheats............. 225
Low Oil Pressure Indicator.......... 228
Charging System Indicator........... 229
Malfunction Indicator Lamp ........ 230
Brake System Indicator................ 232
Closing the Convertible Top........ 233
Fuses............................................... 234
Checking and Replacing........... 235
If Your Car Gets Stuck.................. 239
Emergency Towing....................... 241


Taking Care of the Unexpected


stMain Menu Compact Spare Tire


Your car has a compact spare tire that takes up less space. Use this spare tire as a temporary replace- ment only. Get your regular tire repaired or replaced and put it back on your car as soon as you can.


Check the inflation pressure of the compact spare tire every time you check the other tires. It should be inflated to: 60 psi (420 kPa , 4.2 kgf/cm2)


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Follow these precautions whenever you are using the compact spare tire:


INDICATOR LOCATION MARK


Do not exceed 50 mph (80 km/h) under any circumstances.


This tire gives a harsher ride and less traction on some road sur- faces than the regular tire. Use greater caution while driving on this tire.


Do not mount snow chains on the compact spare.


The wheel of the compact spare tire is designed especially to fit your car. Do not use your spare tire on another vehicle unless it is the same make and model.


TREAD WEAR INDICATOR BAR


The compact spare tire has a shorter tread life than a regular tire. Replace it when you can see the tread wear indicator bars. The replacement should be the same size and design tire, mounted on the same wheel. The compact spare tire is not designed to be mounted on a regular wheel, and the compact wheel is not designed for mounting a regular tire.


stMain MenuTable of Contents The size difference may also cause damage to the rear differential, so do not mount the compact spare on the rear. If either rear tire goes flat, remove the front tire on that same side, mount the compact spare tire on the front, then mount the front tire on the rear.


1. Park the car on firm, level, non-


slippery ground away from traffic. Put the transmission in Reverse. Apply the parking brake.


2. Turn on the hazard warning lights


and turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Have your passenger get out of the car while you change the tire.


If you have a flat tire while driving, stop in a safe place to change it. Stopping in traffic or on the shoulder of a busy road is dangerous. Drive slowly along the shoulder until you get to an exit or an area to stop that is far away from the traffic lanes.


The car can easily roll off the jack, seriously injuring anyone underneath.


Follow the directions for changing a tire exactly, and never get under the car when it is supported only by the jack.


The compact spare tire is smaller than a standard tire, which will affect the vehicle's handling. Drive cautiously when this spare is mounted on your vehicle.


Changing a Flat Tire


3. Open the trunk. Lift up the tool box lid and take the jack, wheel wrench and extension out of the tool box.


NOTICE


Use the jack that came on your car. If you try to raise another car by this jack or use another jack to raise your car, the car or jack can be damaged.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Changing a Flat Tire


4. Remove the three clips holding the spare tire cover by pulling straight up on the rings. Remove the spare tire cover.


5. Unscrew the wing bolt and take


the spare tire out of the spare tire shelf.


6. Loosen the five wheel nuts 1/2


turn with the wheel wrench.


7. Locate the jacking point nearest the tire you need to change. It is pointed to by an arrow molded into the underside of the body. Place the jack under the jacking point. Turn the end bracket clockwise until the top of the jack contacts the jacking point. Make sure the jacking point tab is resting in the jack notch.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Changing a Flat Tire


8. Use the extension and wheel


wrench as shown to raise the car until the flat tire is off the ground.


9. Remove the wheel nuts and flat


tire. Temporarily place the flat tire on the ground with the outside surface of the wheel facing up. Placing the wheel face down could mar its finish.


10. Before mounting the spare tire, wipe any dirt off the mounting surface of the wheel and hub with a clean cloth. Wipe the hub carefully, it may be hot from driving.


BRAKE HUB


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Changing a Flat Tire


11. Put on the spare tire. Put the


wheel nuts back on finger-tight, then tighten them in a crisscross pattern with the wheel wrench until the wheel is firmly against the hub. Do not try to tighten them fully.


12. Lower the car to the ground and


remove the jack.


13. Tighten the wheel nuts securely in the same crisscross pattern. Have the wheel nut torque checked at the nearest automotive service facility. Tighten the wheel nuts to: 80 lbf.ft(108 N.m,11 kgf.m)


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss 14. Remove the tool box from the trunk well and replace the jack, wheel wrench and extension in the tool box.


16. Replace the spare tire cover.


Secure it with the three clips. Push each clip down securely, and pivot the ring down flat.


15. Place the tool box into the spare


tire shelf in the trunk.


17. Put the flat tire in the trunk well


vertically as shown.


Changing a Flat Tire


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly When you press the ENGINE START button, you do not hear the normal noise of the engine trying to start. You may hear a clicking sound or series of clicks, or nothing at all. Check these things:


Your car has the Immobilizer System. You should use a properly-coded master or valet key to start the engine (see page 59). A key that is not properly coded will cause the immobilizer system indicator in the dash panel to blink rapidly.


Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the headlights and check their brightness. If the headlights are very dim or don't light at all, the battery is discharged. See Jump Starting on page 222.


Press the ENGINE START button, then release it. If the headlights do not dim, check the condition of the fuses. If the fuses are OK, there is probably something wrong with the electrical circuit for the ignition switch or starter motor. You will need a qualified technician to determine the problem. (See Emergency Towing on page 241.)


If Your Engine Won't Start


Diagnosing why your engine won't start falls into two areas, depending on what you hear when you press the ENGINE START button.


You hear nothing, or almost nothing. The engine's starter motor does not operate at all, or operates very slowly.


You can hear the starter motor operating normally, or the starter motor sounds like it is spinning faster than normal, but the engine does not start up and run.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


stMain MenuTable of Contents If Your Engine Won't Start


There may be an electrical problem, such as no power to the fuel pump. Check all the fuses (see page 235).


If you find nothing wrong, you will need a qualified technician to find the problem. See Emergency Towing on page 241.


If the headlights dim noticeably or go out when you try to start the engine, either the battery is dis- charged or the connections are corroded. Check the condition of the battery and terminal connections (see page 177). You can then try jump starting the car from a booster battery (see page 222).


The Starter Operates Normally In this case, the starter motor's speed sounds normal, or even faster than normal, when you press the ENGINE START button, but the engine does not run.


Are you using the proper starting procedure? Refer to Starting the Engine on page 131.


Do you have fuel? Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) for a minute and watch the fuel gauge. The low fuel level warning light may not be working, so you were not reminded to fill the tank.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Jump Starting


If your car's battery has run down, you may be able to start the engine by using a booster battery. Although this seems like a simple procedure, you should take several precautions.


A battery can explode if you do not follow the correct procedure, seriously injuring anyone nearby.


Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery.


To jump start your car, follow these directions closely:


1. Open the hood and check the


physical condition of the battery (see page 177). In very cold weather, check the condition of the electrolyte. If it seems slushy or like ice, do not try jump starting until it thaws.


NOTICE


If a battery sits in extreme cold, the electrolyte inside can freeze. Attempting to jump start with a frozen battery can cause it to rupture.


2. Turn off all the electrical acces-


sories: heater, A/C, stereo system, lights, etc. Put the transmission in Neutral and set the parking brake.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss 3. Connect one jumper cable to the


positive ( + ) terminal on your Honda's batteiy. Connect the other end to the positive ( + ) terminal on the booster battery.


4. Connect the second jumper cable to the negative (—) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the metal projection near the intake manifold as shown in the illustration. Do not connect this jumper cable to any other part of the engine.


Jump Starting


5. If the booster battery is in another


vehicle, have an assistant start that vehicle and run it at a fast idle.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss 7. Once your car is running, discon- nect the negative cable from your car, then from the booster battery. Disconnect the positive cable from your car, then the booster battery.


Keep the ends of the juniper cables away from each other and any metal on the car until all are disconnected. Otherwise, you may cause an electrical short.


Jump Starting


BOOSTER BATTERY


6. Start your car. If the starter motor


still operates slowly, check the jumper cable connections to make sure they have good metal-to- metal contact.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss The reading on your car's temperature gauge should stay in the midrange under most conditions. It may go higher if you are driving up a long steep hill on a very hot day. If it climbs to the red mark, you should determine the reason.


NOTICE


Driving with the temperature gauge reading at the red mark can cause serious damage to your engine.


Your car can overheat for several reasons, such as lack of coolant or a mechanical problem. The only indication may be the temperature gauge climbing to or above the red mark. Or you may see steam or spray coming from under the car or engine cover. In either case, you should take immediate action.


Steam and spray from an overheated engine can seriously scald you.


Do not open the hood if steam is coming out.


1. Safely pull to the side of the road.


Put the transmission in Neutral and set the parking brake. Turn off the heating and cooling system and all other accessories. Turn on the hazard warning indicators.


2. If you see steam and/or spray


coming from under the hood, turn off the engine.


If Your Engine Overheats


3. If you do not see steam or spray,


leave the engine running and watch the temperature gauge. If the high heat is due to overloading (climbing a long, steep hill on a hot day with the A/C running, for example), the engine should start to cool clown almost immediately. If it does, wait until the tempera- ture gauge comes down to the mid- point then continue driving.


4. If the temperature gauge stays at the red mark, turn off the engine.


5. Wait until you see no more signs of steam or spray, then open the hood.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss 7. If you don't find an obvious leak,


check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank (see page 120). If the level is below the MIN mark, add coolant to halfway between the MIN and MAX marks.


8. If there was no coolant in the


reserve tank, you may also have to add coolant to the radiator. Let the engine cool down until the reading reaches the middle of the temperature gauge, or lower, before checking the radiator.


9. Using gloves or a large heavy


cloth, turn the radiator cap counterclockwise, without pushing down, to the first stop. This releases any remaining pressure in the cooling system. After the pressure releases, push down on the cap and turn it until it comes off.


If Your Engine Overheats


6. Look for any obvious coolant leaks,


such as a split radiator hose. Everything is still extremely hot, so use caution. If you find a leak, it must be repaired before you continue driving (see Emergency Towing on page 241).


Removing the radiator cap while the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you.


Always let the engine and radiator cool down before removing the radiator cap.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss If Your Engine Overheats


11. Put the radiator cap back on


tightly. Run the engine and watch the temperature gauge. If it goes back to the red mark, the engine needs repair. (See Emergency Towing on page 241.)


12. If the temperature stays normal,


check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank. If it has gone down, add coolant to the MAX mark. Put the cap back on tightly.


10. Start the engine and set the temperature control dial to maximum. Add coolant to the radiator up to the base of the filler neck. If you do not have the proper coolant mixture available, you can add plain water. Remember to have the cooling system drained and refilled with the proper mixture as soon as you can.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss 4. Start the engine and watch the oil


pressure indicator. If the light does not go out within ten seconds, turn off the engine. There is a mechanical problem that needs to be repaired before you can continue driving. (See Emergency Towing on page 241.)


Low Oil Pressure Indicator


LOW OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR


NOTICE


Running the engine with low oil pressure can cause serious mechanical damage almost irnmediately. Turn off the engine as soon as you can safely get the car slopped.


1. Safely pull off the road and shut


off the engine. Turn on the hazard warning indicators.


2. Let the car sit for a minute. Open the hood and check the oil level (see page 119). Although oil level and oil pressure are not directly connected, an engine that is very low on oil can lose pressure during cornering and other driving maneuvers.


3. If necessary, add oil to bring the level back to the full mark on the dipstick (see page 157).


PUSH CANCEL


This indicator should light when the ignition switch is ON (II), and go out after the engine starts. It should never come on when the engine is running. If it starts flashing, it indicates that the oil pressure dropped very low for a moment, then recovered. If the indicator stays on with the engine running, it shows that the engine has lost oil pressure and serious engine damage is possible. In either case, you should take immediate action.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Charging System Indicator


By eliminating as much of the electrical load as possible, you can drive several miles (kilometers) before the battery is too discharged to keep the engine running. Drive to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance.


Immediately turn off all electrical accessories: radio, heater, A/C, cruise control, etc. Try not to use other electrically-operated controls such as the power windows. Keep the engine running and take extra care not to stall it. Starting the engine will discharge the battery rapidly.


CHARGING SYSTEM INDICATOR


PUSH CANCEL


This indicator should come on when the ignition switch is ON (II), and go out after the engine starts. If it comes on brightly when the engine is running, it indicates that the charging system has stopped charging the battery.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


stMain MenuTable of Contents NOTICE


If you keep driving with the malfunction indicator lamp on, you can damage your car's emissions controls and engine. Those repairs may not be covered by your car's warranties.


Malfunction Indicator Lamp


MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP


PUSH CANCEL


This indicator comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). If it comes on at any other time, it indicates one of the engine's emissions control systems may have a problem. Even though you may feel no difference in your car's performance, it can reduce your fuel economy and cause your car to put out excessive emissions. Continued operation may cause serious damage.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If you have recently refueled your car, the cause of this indicator coming on could be a loose or missing fuel fill cap. Check the cap and tighten it until it clicks several times. Replace the fuel fill cap if it is missing. Tightening the cap will not make the indicator turn off immediately; it takes three driving trips.


If the indicator remains on past three driving trips, or the fuel cap was not loose or missing, have the car checked by the dealer as soon as possible. Drive moderately until the dealer has inspected the problem. Avoid full-throttle acceleration and driving at high speed.


You should also have the dealer inspect your car if this indicator comes on repeatedly, even though it may turn off as you continue driving.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Malfunction Indicator Lamp


If possible, do not take your car for a state emissions test until the readiness codes are set. See State Emissions Testing on pages 255 and 256.


Readiness Codes Your car has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. In some states, part of the emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set. If they are not set, the test cannot be completed.


If your car's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, these codes are erased. It takes several days of driving under various conditions to set the codes again.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Slow down by shifting to a lower gear, and pull to the side of the road when it is safe. Because of the longer distance needed to stop, it is hazardous to drive the car. You should have it towed, and repaired as soon as possible.


If you must drive the car a short distance in this condition, drive slowly and cautiously.


Brake System Indicator


BRAKE SYSTEM INDICATOR


The Brake System Indicator normally comes on when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). It is a reminder to check the parking brake. It comes on and stays lit if you do not fully release the parking brake.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If it comes on at any other time, it indicates a problem with the car's brake system. In most cases, the problem is a low fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir. Press lightly on the brake pedal to see if it feels normal. If it does, check the brake fluid level the next time you stop at a service station (see page 170). If the fluid level is low, take the car to your dealer and have the brake system inspected for leaks or worn brake pads.


However, if the brake pedal does not feel normal, you should take immediate action. Because of the brake system's dual-circuit design, a problem in one part of the system will still give you braking at two wheels. You will feel the brake pedal go clown much farther before the car begins to slow clown, and you will have to press harder on the pedal. The distance needed to stop will be much longer.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss If the electric motor will not close the convertible top, do the following.


1. Check the fuse for the convertible


top motor (see page 235). If the fuse is blown, replace it with one of the same or lower rating.


2. Try closing the convertible top. If


the new fuse blows immediately or the convertible top still does not operate, you can close the convertible top manually.


Closing the Convertible Top


CONNECTOR


3. Locate the electrical connector for


the convertible top motor. It is under the lower corner of the dashboard on the passenger's side. Disconnect the connector by pushing the tab and pulling the connector down.


4. Holding each corner of the


convertible top, raise the top and push it forward as far as it will go.


5. Follow steps 5 through 7 of the closing procedure on page 76 .


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Fuses


All the electrical circuits in your car have fuses to protect them from a short circuit or overload. These fuses are located in three fuse boxes.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


The interior fuse box is underneath the dashboard on the driver's side.


There are two under-hood fuse boxes in the engine compartment.


The main fuse box is located on the passenger's side near the battery. To open it, push the two tabs as shown.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss The auxiliary fuse box is located on the driver's side near the brake fluid reservoir. To open it, push the tab on each side and remove the lid.


Checking and Replacing Fuses If something electrical in your car stops working, the first thing you should check for is a blown fuse. Determine from the chart on pages 237 and 238 , or the diagram on the fuse box lid, which fuse or fuses control that component. Check those fuses first, but check all the fuses before deciding that a blown fuse is not the cause. Replace any blown fuses and check the component's operation.


1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Make sure the headlights and all other accessories are off.


2. Remove the cover from the fuse


box.


Fuses


BLOWN


3. Check each of the large fuses in


the under-hood fuse box by looking through the top at the wire inside. Removing these fuses requires a Phillips-head screw- driver.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Fuses


FUSE PULLER


BLOWN


4. Check the smaller fuses by pulling


out the fuse with the fuse puller provided in the interior fuse box.


5. Look for a burned wire inside the fuse. If it is burned, replace it with one of the spare fuses of the same rating or lower.


If you cannot drive the vehicle without fixing the problem, and you do not have a spare fuse, take a fuse of the same rating or a lower rating from one of the other circuits. Make sure you can do without that circuit temporarily (such as the accessory power socket or radio).


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If you replace the blown fuse with a spare fuse that has a lower rating, it might blow out again. This does not indicate anything wrong. Replace the fuse with one of the correct rating as soon as you can.


NOTICE


Replacing a fuse with one that has a higher rating greatly increases the chances of damaging the electrical system. If you do not have a replace- ment fuse with the proper rating for the circuit, install one with a lower rating.


6. If the replacement fuse of the


same rating blows in a short time, there is probably a serious electrical problem in your car. Leave the blown fuse in that circuit and have your car checked by a qualified mechanic.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss INTERIOR FUSE BOX


Fuses


* : Canadian Model


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Fuses


UNDER-HOOD FUSE BOXES (MAIN FUSE BOX)


(AUXILIARY FUSE BOX)


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss If your car gets stuck in sand, mud, or snow, call a towing service to pull it out (see page 241).


If Your Car Gets Stuck


For very short distances, such as freeing the car, you can use the detachable towing hook that mounts on the anchors in the front and rear bumpers.


To use the towing hook:


1. Remove the cover from the


bumper.


2. Remove the towing hook, hook


extension and wheel wrench from the tool box.


3. Using the wheel wrench, fasten


the extension into the bolt hole in the anchor.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


stMain MenuTable of Contents If Your Car Gets Stuck


4. Screw the towing hook into the


extension and tighten it securely by hand.


NOTICE


To avoid damage to your car. use the towing hook for straight, flat ground towing only. Do not tow at an angle. The tow hook should not he used to tow t/ie vehicle onto a flat bed. Do not use it as a tie down.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss If your car needs to be towed, call a professional towing service or, if you belong to one, an organization that provides roadside assistance. Never tow your car behind another vehicle with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.


Flat-bed Equipment — The operator loads your vehicle on the back of a truck. This is the only way your S2000 should be transported. When you contact the towing agency, inform them that you have an S2000
and that a flat-bed is required.


There are three popular types of professional towing equipment.


Emergency Towing


Wheel Lift Equipment — The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lift them off the ground. The other two tires remain on the ground. Because the S2000 sits so low, the body could come in contact with the ground and be damaged. This method of towing is unacceptable.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Emergency Towing


Sling-type Equipment — The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end of the car off the ground. Your car's suspension and body can be seriously damaged. This method of towing is unacceptable.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


tMain MenuTable of Contentss The diagrams in this section give you the dimensions and capacities of your Honda, and the locations of the identification numbers. It also includes information you should know about your vehicle's tires and emissions control systems.


Identification Numbers................. 244
Specifications................................. 246
DOT Tire Quality Grading


(U.S. Vehicles)....................... 248
Treadwear.................................. 248
Traction....................................... 248
Temperature............................. 249


Technical Information


Oxygenated Fuels.......................... 250
Driving in Foreign Countries....... 251
Emissions Controls........................ 252
The Clean Air Act...................... 252
Crankcase Emissions Control


System..................................... 252


Evaporative Emissions Control


System..................................... 252
Exhaust Emissions Controls.... 253
PGM-FI System..................... 253
Ignition Timing Control


System................................. 253


Secondary Air Injection


System................................. 253


Three Way Catalytic


Converter............................ 253
Replacement Parts..................... 253
Three Way Catalytic Converter... 254
State Emission Testing................. 255


Technical Information


stMain Menu VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER


Identification Numbers


Your car has several identifying numbers located in various places.


The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is the 17-digit number your Honda dealer uses to register your car for warranty purposes. It is also necessary for licensing and insuring your car. The easiest place to find the VIN is on a plate fastened to the top of the dashboard. You can see it by looking through the windshield on the driver's side. It is also on the Certification label attached to the driver's doorjamb, and is stamped on the engine compartment bulkhead. The VIN is also provided in bar code on the Certification label.


Technical Information


CERTIFICATION LABEL


stMain MenuTable of Contents Identification Numbers


The Engine Number is stamped on the left front corner of the engine block.


The Transmission Number is on a label underneath the transmission.


TRANSMISSION NUMBER


ENGINE NUMBER


Technical Information


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Specifications


page 176


Technical Information


* 1 : Including the coolant in the reserve tank and that remaining in the


engine. Reserve tank capacity: 0.16 US gal (0.6


, 0.13 Imp gal)


* 2 : Excluding the oil remaining in the engine.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Specifications


page 238


page 237


Technical Information


tMain MenuTable of Contentss DOT Tire Quality Grading (U.S. Vehicles)


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a compara- tive rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and one- half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual condi- tions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm clue to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.


Traction — AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire's ability to slop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.


Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


The tires on your vehicle meet all U.S. Federal Safety Requirements. All tires are also graded for treadwear, traction, and temperature performance according to Department of Transportation (DOT) standards. The following explains these gradings.


Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between the tread shoulder and the maximum section width. For example:


Treadwear 200
Traction AA Temperature A


DOT Quality Grades All passenger car tires must conform to Federal Safety Requirements in addition to these grades.


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsts DOT Tire Quality Grading (U.S. Vehicles)


Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not over- loaded. Excessive speed, underinfla- tion, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


Temperature — A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsts Oxygenated Fuels


Some conventional gasolines are being blended with alcohol or an ether compound. These gasolines are collectively referred to as oxygenated fuels. To meet clean air standards, some areas of the United States and Canada use oxygenated fuels to help reduce emissions.


If you use an oxygenated fuel, be sure it is unleaded and meets the minimum octane rating requirement.


Before using an oxygenated fuel, try to confirm the fuel's contents. Some states/provinces require this information to be posted on the pump.


Technical Information


The following are the U.S. EPA and Canadian CGSB approved percentages of oxygenates:


ETHANOL (ethyl or grain alcohol) You may use gasoline containing up to 10 percent ethanol by volume. Gasoline containing ethanol may be marketed under the name "Gasohol."


METHANOL (methyl or wood alcohol) Your vehicle was not designed to use fuel that contains methanol. Methanol can corrode metal parts in the fuel system, and also damage plastic and rubber components. This damage would not be covered by your warranties.


MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether) You may use gasoline containing up to 15 percent MTBE by volume.


If you notice any undesirable operating symptoms, try another service station or switch to another brand of gasoline.


Fuel system damage or performance problems resulting from the use of an oxygenated fuel containing more than the percentages of oxygenates given above are not covered under warranty.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss If you are planning to take your Honda outside the U.S. or Canada, contact the tourist bureaus in the areas you will be traveling in to find out about the availability of unleaded gasoline with the proper octane rating.


If unleaded gasoline is not available, be aware that using leaded gasoline in your Honda will affect perfor- mance and fuel mileage, and damage its emissions controls. It will no longer comply with U.S. and Canadian emissions regulations, and will be illegal to operate in North America. To bring your car back into compliance will require the replace- ment of several components, such as the oxygen sensors and the three way catalytic converter. These re- placements are not covered under warranty.


Driving in Foreign Countries


Technical Information


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Emissions Controls


The burning of gasoline in your car's engine produces several byproducts. Some of these are carbon monoxide (CO), oxides of nitrogen (NOx) and hydrocarbons (HC). Gasoline evaporating from the tank also produces hydrocarbons. Controlling the production of NOx, CO, and HC is important to the environment. Under certain conditions of sunlight and climate, NOx and HC react to form photochemical "smog." Carbon monoxide does not contribute to smog creation, but it is a poisonous gas.


Technical Information


The Clean Air Act The United States Clean Air Act* sets standards for automobile emissions. It also requires that automobile manufacturers explain to owners how their emissions controls work and what to do to maintain them. This section summarizes how the emissions controls work. Scheduled maintenance is on page 148.


* In Canada. Honda vehicles comply with the Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (CMVSS) for Emissions valid at the time they are manufactured.


Crankcase Emissions Control System Your car has a Positive Crankcase Ventilation System. This keeps gasses that build up in the engine's crankcase from going into the atmosphere. The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve routes them from


the crankcase back to the intake manifold. They are then drawn into the engine and burned.


Evaporative Emissions Control System As gasoline evaporates in the fuel tank, an evaporative emissions control canister filled with charcoal adsorbs the vapor. It is stored in this canister while the engine is off. After the engine is started and warmed up, the vapor is drawn into the engine and burned during driving.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Exhaust Emissions Controls The exhaust emissions controls include four systems: PGM-FI, Ignition Timing Control, Secondary Air Injection System and Three Way Catalytic Converter. These four systems work together to control the engine's combustion and minimize the amount of HC, CO, and NOx that comes out the tailpipe. The exhaust emissions control systems are separate from the crankcase and evaporative emissions control systems.


PGM-FI System The PGM-FI System uses sequential multiport fuel injection. It has three subsystems: Air Intake, Engine Control, and Fuel Control. The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses various sensors to determine how much air is going into the engine. It then controls how much fuel to inject under all operating- conditions.


Emissions Controls


Ignition Timing Control System This system constantly adjusts the ignition timing, reducing the amount of HC, CO and NOx produced.


Secondary Air Injection System During engine warm-up, air is pumped into the exhaust to reduce emissions when the engine is cold.


Three Way Catalytic Converter The three way catalytic converter is in the exhaust system. Through chemical reactions, it converts HC, CO, and NOx in the engine's exhaust to carbon dioxide (CO2), dinitrogen (N2), and water vapor.


Replacement Parts The emissions control systems are designed and certified to work to- gether in reducing emissions to levels that comply with the Clean Air Act. To make sure the emissions remain low, you should use only new Genuine Honda replacement parts or their equivalent for repairs. Using lower quality parts may increase the emissions from your car.


The emissions control systems are covered by warranties separate from the rest of your car. Read your warranty manual for more informa- tion.


Technical Information


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Keep the engine tuned-up.


Have your car diagnosed and repaired if it is misfiring, back- firing, stalling, or otherwise not running properly.


Three Way Catalytic Converter


The three way catalytic converter contains precious metals that serve as catalysts, promoting chemical reactions to convert the exhaust gasses without affecting the metals. The catalytic converter is referred to as a three-way catalyst, since it acts on HC, CO, and NOx. A replacement unit must be an original Honda part or its equivalent.


The three way catalytic converter must operate at a high temperature for the chemical reactions to take place. It can set on fire any com- bustible materials that come near it. Park your car away from high grass, dry leaves, or other flammables.


Technical Information


THREE WAY CATALYTIC CONVERTER A defective three way catalytic converter contributes to air pollution, and can impair your engine's per- formance. Follow these guidelines to protect your car's three way catalytic converter.


Always use unleaded gasoline. Even a small amount of leaded gasoline can contaminate the catalyst metals, making the three way catalytic converter ineffective.


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Testing of Readiness Codes If you take your vehicle for a state emissions test shortly after the battery has been disconnected or gone dead, it may not complete the test. This is because of certain "readiness codes" that must be set in the on-board diagnostics for the emissions systems. These codes are erased when the battery is disconnected, and set again only after several days of driving under a variety of conditions.


If the testing facility determines that the readiness codes are not set, you will be requested to return at a later date to complete the test. If you must get the vehicle re-tested within the next two or three days, you can condition the vehicle for re-testing by doing the following.


Make sure the gas tank is nearly, but not completely, full (around 3/4).


Make sure the vehicle has been parked with the engine off for 8
hours or more.


Make sure the ambient temperature is between 20° and 95° F.


State Emissions Testing


Without touching the accelerator pedal, start the engine and let it idle for 20 seconds.


Keep the vehicle on Neutral. Increase the engine speed to 2,000
rpm and hold it there until the temperature gauge rises to at least 1/4 of the scale (approximately 3
minutes).


CONTINUED


Technical Information


tMain MenuTable of Contentss State Emissions Testing


Select a nearby lightly traveled major highway where you can maintain a speed of 50 to 60 mph for at least 20 minutes. Drive on the highway in 5th. Do not use the cruise control. When traffic allows, drive for 90 seconds without moving the accelerator pedal. (Vehicle speed may vary slightly; this is okay.) If you cannot do this for a continuous 90 seconds because of traffic conditions, drive for at least 30 seconds, then repeat it two more times (for a total of 90
seconds).


Then drive in city/suburban traffic for at least 10 minutes. When traffic conditions allow, let the vehicle coast for several seconds without using the accelerator pedal or the brake pedal.


If the testing facility determines the readiness codes are still not set, see your Honda dealer.


Technical Information


tMain MenuTable of Contentss Warranty and Customer Relations


Customer Relations


Information................................. 258
U.S. Zone Office Map.................... 259
Canada Zone Office Map.............. 260
Warranty Coverages..................... 261
Reporting Safety Defects


(U.S. Vehicles)........................... 262
Authorized Manuals...................... 263


Warranty and Customer Relations


tMain Menus Customer Relations Information


Honda dealership personnel are trained professionals. They should be able to answer all your questions. If you encounter a problem that your dealership does not solve to your satisfaction, please discuss it with the dealership's management. The Service Manager or General Manager can help. Almost all problems are solved in this way.


If you are dissatisfied with the decision made by the dealership's management, contact your Honda Customer Relations Zone Office. Refer to the U.S. and Canadian Zone Office maps on the following pages.


When you call or write, please give us this information:


Vehicle Identification Number (see page 244) Name and address of the dealer who services your car Date of purchase Mileage on your car Your name, address, and tele- phone number

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