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Tire:


205/50R16 87V


See Tire Information on page 228 for additional information about tire and wheel size designations. See page 229 for information about DOT Tire Quality Grading.


Winter Driving Tires that are marked "M+S" or "All Season" on the sidewall have an all-weather tread design. They should be suitable for most winter driving conditions. Tires without these markings are designed for optimum traction in dry conditions. They may not provide adequate performance in winter driving. For the best performance in snowy or icy conditions, you should install snow tires or tire chains. They may be required by local laws under certain conditions.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Snow Tires If you mount snow tires on your Honda, make sure they are radial tires of the same size and load range as the original tires. Mount snow tires on all four wheels to balance your car's handling in all weather conditions. Keep in mind the traction provided by snow tires on dry roads may not be as high as your car's original equipment tires. You should drive cautiously even when the roads are clear. Check with the tire dealer for maximum speed recommenda- tions.


Tire Chains Mount snow chains on your car when warranted by driving condi- tions or required by local laws. Make sure the chains are the correct size for your tires. Install them only on the front tires. If metal chains are used, they must be SAE class "S". Cable type traction devices can also be used.


When installing chains, follow the manufacturer's instructions and mount them as tightly as you can. Drive slowly with chains installed. If you hear the chains contacting the body or chassis, stop and tighten them. If they still make contact, slow down until it stops. Remove the chains as soon as you begin driving on cleared roads.


Tires


NOTICE


Chains of the wrong size or that are improperly installed can damage your car's brake lines, suspension, body, and wheels. Stop driving if you hear the chains hitting any part of the car.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


Check the operation of your car's exterior lights at least once a month. A burned out bulb can create an unsafe condition by reducing your car's visibility and the ability to signal your intentions to other drivers. Check the following:


Headlights (low and high beam) Parking lights Taillights Brake lights High-mount brake light Turn signals Back-up lights Hazard light function License plate light Side marker lights Daytime running lights (Canadian cars)


Maintenance


If you find any bulbs are burned out, replace them as soon as possible. Refer to the chart on page 227 to determine what type of replacement bulb is needed.


Headlight Aiming The headlights were properly aimed when your car was new. You should check their aim if you regularly carry heavy items in the trunk or pull a trailer. Each headlight assembly has horizontal and vertical adjustment indicators. These are set to their "0" positions after the headlights are aimed at the factory.


To check these settings:


1. Make sure the fuel tank is full. Park the car on level ground.


2. The driver or someone who


weighs the same should be sitting in the driver's seat for all checks and adjustments. Load the trunk with the items you normally carry.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst HORIZONTAL ANGLE GAUGE


VERTICAL ANGLE GAUGE


HORIZONTAL ADJUSTMENT


Lights


BUBBLE


5. Check the vertical angle gauge. The bubble should be centered underneath the longest scribe mark on the gauge.


6. If either indicator is not aligned


with its "0" mark as described, an adjustment can be made using a Phillips-head screwdriver to realign it with the "0" mark. Please refer to the illustrations.


If you usually pull a trailer, load it as you would normally and attach it to the car. Push down on the front and rear bumpers several times to make sure the car is sitting normally.


3. Open the hood.


4. Check the horizontal angle gauge. The line on the adjustment screw indicator should line up with the "0" mark on the gauge.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst NOTICE


Halogen headlight bulbs get very hot when lit. Oil, perspiration, or a scratch on the glass can cause the bulb to overheat and shatter.


Replacing a Headlight Bulb Your car has two bulbs on each side, four in total. Make sure you are replacing the bulb that is burned out. Your car uses halogen headlight bulbs. When replacing a bulb, handle it by its plastic case and protect the glass from contact with your skin or hard objects. If you touch the glass, clean it with denatured alcohol and a clean cloth.


The headlight bulbs in your car are H1 headlight bulbs for longer life. We recommend the use of Genuine Honda parts for replacing a headlight bulb.


Lights


VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT


7. If you cannot get an indicator to


align, have your Honda dealer inspect the car for body damage or suspension problems.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst 1. Open the hood.


2. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by squeezing the connector on both sides to unlock the tab. Pull the connector straight off.


BULB


HOLD- DOWN WIRE WEATHER SEAL CONNECTOR 3. Remove the rubber weather seal


by pulling on the tab.


4. Unclip the end of the hold-down wire from its slot. Pivot it out of the way and remove the bulb.


Lights


5. Insert the new bulb into the hole, making sure the tabs are in their slots. Pivot the hold-down wire back in place and clip the end into the slot.


6. Install the rubber seal over the back of the headlight assembly. Make sure it is right side up; it is marked "TOP".


7. Push the electrical connector onto


the tabs of the new bulb. Make sure it locks in place. Turn on the headlights to test the new bulb.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


Replacing a Parking Light Bulb 1. Open the hood. The front parking light is next to the headlight bulb.


If you need to change a bulb on the passenger's side, remove the radiator reserve tank by pulling it out of its holder.


3. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


4. Insert the socket back into the


headlight assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


5. Turn on the parking lights to


make sure the new bulb works.


6. (Passenger's side)


Reinstall the radiator reserve tank.


2. Remove the socket from the


headlight assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing a Front Side Marker Light Bulb


BULB


SOCKET


SCREW


1. Use a Philips-head screwdriver to


remove the side marker assembly's mounting screw.


2. Remove the side marker assembly


from the bumper.


FRONT SIDE MARKER ASSEMBLY 3. Remove the socket from the side


marker assembly by turning it one- quarter turn counterclockwise.


4. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


Lights


5. Insert the socket back into the side marker assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


6. Test the side marker to make sure


the new bulb is working.


7. Put the side marker assembly into the bumper. Make sure the tab on the side marker assembly fits into the bumper slot. Tighten the mounting screw.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


Replacing a Front Turn Signal Light Bulb


TURN SIGNAL ASSEMBLY


BULB


5. Insert the socket back into the


turn signal assembly. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


6. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


7. Put the turn signal assembly into


the bumper. Make sure the tab on the turn signal assembly fits into the bumper slot. Tighten the mounting screw.


SCREW


SOCKET


1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the turn signal assembly's mounting screw.


3. Remove the socket from the turn signal assembly by turning it one- quarter turn counterclockwise.


2. Remove the turn signal assembly


from the bumper.


4. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing Rear Bulbs


Lights


1. Open the trunk.


2. Undo the fastener on the side of


the trunk lining by pushing on the center of the fastener's head until it pops in. Pull the lining back.


3. Determine which of the five bulbs is burned out: stop/taillight, turn signal light, side marker light, back-up light, or taillight.


5. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


4. Remove the socket by turning it


one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


6. Reinstall the socket into the light assembly by turning it clockwise until it locks.


7. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


8. Reinstall the trunk lining.


9. Reset the fastener by pushing on the pointed end until it pops back almost flush with the fingers on the housing.


10. Put the fastener in the hole in the side of the trunk lining and push on the center until it locks (the center is flush with the head).


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing a High-mount Brake Light Bulb (Except Type SH model)


HiGH-MOUNT BRAKE LIGHT ASSEMBLY


1. Remove the high-mount brake


light assembly by pushing it slightly toward the rear windshield and sliding it out of the rear shelf.


2. Remove the socket from the light assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


3. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


Lights


4. Reinstall the socket. Turn it


clockwise until it locks.


5. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


6. Reinstall the high-mount brake


light assembly on the rear shelf. Make sure the tabs on the high- mount brake light assembly fit into the slots.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


Replacing a Rear License Bulb


4. Turn on the parking lights and


check that the new bulb is working.


5. Put the license light assembly in


place. Reinstall the two screws and tighten them securely.


1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to


remove the two screws holding the license plate light assembly to the bracket. Pull the assembly away from the bracket.


2. Remove the socket from the light assembly by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


3. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb in until it bottoms in the socket.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing Bulbs in the Interior Courtesy Lights The courtesy lights in the doors and roof come apart the same way. They do not all use the same bulb. The spotlight bulbs are in the ceiling light housing.


1. Remove the lens by carefully


prying on the edge of the lens with a fingernail file or a small flat-tip screwdriver. Do not pry on the edge of the housing around the lens.


Ceiling light:


pry on the front edge of the lens in the middle.


On Type SH


Door light:


pry on the top middle of the lens.


CEILING LIGHT


DOOR LIGHT


Lights


2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.


3. Push the new bulb into the metal tabs. Snap the lens back in place.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


Replacing the Trunk Light Bulb


TRUNK LIGHT


1. Open the trunk. Pull down the


trunk light cover.


2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.


3. Push the new bulb into the metal


tabs.


4. Push the cover back in place.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than one month), there are several things you should do to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. If possible, store your car indoors.


Fill the fuel tank.


Change the engine oil and filter (see page 148).


Wash and dry the exterior completely.


Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry.


Leave the parking brake off. Put the transmission in Reverse (5- speed manual) or Park (automatic).


Storing Your Car


Block the rear wheels.


If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jackstands so the tires are off the ground.


Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors).


Disconnect the battery.


Support the front wiper blade arms with a folded towel or rag so they do not touch the windshield.


To minimize sticking, apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and trunk seals. Also, apply a car body wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and trunk seals.


Cover the car with a "breathable" car cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton. Nonporous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture, which can damage the paint.


If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).


If you store your car for 12 months or longer, have your Honda dealer perform the inspections called for in the 24 months/30,000 miles (48,000
km) maintenance schedule (Normal Conditions) as soon as you take it out of storage (see page 140). The replacements called for in the maintenance schedule are not needed unless the car has actually reached that time or mileage.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Appearance Care


Regular cleaning and polishing of your Honda helps to keep it "new" looking. This section gives you hints on how to clean your car and preserve its appearance: the paint, brightwork, wheels and interior. Also included are several things you can do to help prevent corrosion.


Exterior Care.................................. 192
Washing...................................... 192
Waxing........................................ 193
Aluminum Wheels..................... 193
Paint Touch-up........................... 193
Interior Care................................... 194
Carpeting.................................... 194
Fabric.......................................... 194
Vinyl........................................... 194
Seat Belts.................................... 195
Windows..................................... 195
Air Fresheners........................... 196
Corrosion Protection..................... 196
Body Repairs.................................. 197


Appearance Care


Main Menust Exterior Care


Washing Frequent washing helps preserve your car's beauty. Dirt and grit can scratch the paint, while tree sap and bird droppings can permanently ruin the finish.


Wash your car in a shady area, not in direct sunlight. If the car is parked in the sun, move it into the shade and let the exterior cool down before you start.


Only use the solvents and cleaners recommended in this Owner's Manual.


NOTICE


Chemical solvents and strong cleaners can damage the paint, metal, and plastic on your car.


Appearance Care


When you have washed and rinsed the whole exterior, dry it with a chamois or soft towel. Letting it air-dry will cause dulling and water spots.


As you dry the car, inspect it for chips and scratches that could allow corrosion to start. Repair them with touch-up paint (see page 193).


Rinse the car thoroughly with cool water to remove loose dirt.


Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild detergent, such as dishwashing liquid or a product made especially for car washing.


Wash the car, using the water and detergent solution and a soft- bristle brush, sponge, or soft cloth. Start at the top and work your way down. Rinse frequently.


Check the body for road tar, tree sap, etc. Remove these stains with tar remover or turpentine. Rinse it off immediately so it does not harm the finish. Remember to re- wax these areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Waxing Always wash and dry the whole car before waxing it You should wax your car, including the metal trim, whenever water sits on the surface in large patches. It should form into beads or droplets after waxing.


You should use a quality liquid or paste wax. Apply it according to the instructions On the container. In general, there are two types of products:


Waxes — A wax coats the finish and protects it from damage by exposure to sunlight, air pollution, etc. You should use a wax on your Honda when it is new.


Polishes — Polishes and cleaner/ waxes can restore the shine to paint that has oxidized and lost some of its shine. They normally contain mild abrasives and solvents that remove the top layer of the finish. You


should use a polish on your Honda if the finish does not have its original shine after using a wax.


Cleaning tar, insects, etc. with removers also takes off the wax. Remember to re-wax those areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


Aluminum Wheels Clean your Honda's aluminum alloy wheels as you do the rest of the exterior. Wash them with the same solution, and rinse them thoroughly.


The wheels have a protective clear- coat that keeps the aluminum from corroding and tarnishing. Using harsh chemicals, including some commercial wheel cleaners, or stiff brushes can damage this clear-coat. Only use a mild detergent and soft brush or sponge to clean the wheels.


Exterior Care


Paint Touch-up Your dealer has touch-up paint to match your car's color. The color code is printed on a sticker on the driver's doorjamb. Take this code to your dealer so you are sure to get the correct color.


Inspect your car frequently for chips or scratches in the paint. Repair them right away to prevent corrosion of the metal underneath. Use the touch-up paint only on small chips and scratches. More extensive paint damage should be repaired by a professional.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Interior Care


Carpeting Vacuum the carpeting frequently to remove dirt. Ground-in dirt will make the carpet wear out faster. Periodically shampoo the carpet to keep it looking new. Use one of the foam-type carpet cleaners on the market. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner, applying it with a sponge or soft brush. Keep the carpeting as dry as possible by not adding water to the foam.


Fabric Vacuum dirt and dust out of the material frequently. For general cleaning, use a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water, letting it air dry. To clean off stubborn spots, use a commercially-available fabric cleaner. Test it on a hidden area of the fabric first, to make sure it does not bleach or stain the fabric. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner.


Vinyl Remove dirt and dust with a vacuum cleaner. Wipe the vinyl with a soft cloth dampened in a solution of mild soap and water. Use the same solution with a soft-bristle brush on more difficult spots. You can also use commercially-available spray or foam-type vinyl cleaners.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Seat Belts


LOOP


Dirt build-up in the metal loops of the seat belt anchors can cause the belts to retract slowly. Wipe the insides of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in mild soap and warm water or isopropyl alcohol.


If your seat belts get dirty, you can use a soft brush with a mixture of mild soap and warm water to clean them. Do not use bleach, dye, or cleaning solvents. They can weaken the belt material. Let the belts air- dry before you use the car.


Interior Care


Windows Clean the windows, inside and out, with a commercially-available glass cleaner. You can also use a mixture of one part white vinegar to ten parts water. This will remove the haze that builds up on the inside of the windows. Use a soft cloth or paper towels to clean all glass and clear plastic surfaces.


NOTICE


The rear window defogger and antenna wires are bonded to the inside of the glass. Wiping vigorously up-and- down can dislodge and break these wires. When cleaning the rear window, use gentle pressure and wipe side-to- side.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Interior Care, Corrosion Protection


Air Fresheners If you want to use an air freshener/ deodorizer in the interior of your car, it is best to use a solid type. Some liquid air fresheners contain chemi- cals that may cause parts of the interior trim and fabric to crack or discolor.


If you use a liquid air freshener, make sure you fasten it securely so it does not spill as you drive.


Corrosion Protection Two factors normally contribute to causing corrosion in your car:


Inspect and clean out the drain holes in the bottom of the doors and body.


1. Moisture trapped in body cavities. Dirt and road salt that collects in hollows on the underside of the car stays damp, promoting corrosion in that area.


2. Removal of paint and protective


coatings from the exterior and underside of the car.


Many corrosion-preventive measures are built into your Honda. You can help keep your car from corroding by performing some simple periodic maintenance:


Repair chips and scratches in the paint as soon as you discover them.


Check the floor coverings for dampness. Carpeting and floor mats may remain damp for a long time, especially in winter. This dampness can eventually cause the floor panels to corrode.


Use a high-pressure spray to clean the underside of your car. This is especially important in areas that use road salt in winter. It is also a good idea in humid climates and areas subject to salt air. Be careful of the ABS wheel sensors and wiring at each wheel.


Have the corrosion-preventive coatings on the underside of your car inspected and repaired periodically.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Body repairs can affect your car's resistance to corrosion. If your car needs repairs after a collision, pay close attention to the parts used in the repair and the quality of the work.


Make sure the repair facility uses Genuine Honda replacement body parts. Some companies make sheet metal pieces that seem to duplicate the original Honda body parts, but are actually inferior in fit, finish, and corrosion resistance. Once installed, they do not give the same high- quality appearance.


When reporting your collision to the insurance company, tell them you want Genuine Honda parts used in the repair. Although most insurers recognize the quality of original parts, some may try to specify that the repairs be done with other available parts. You should investi- gate this before any repairs are begun.


Take your car to your authorized Honda dealer for inspection after the repairs are completed. He can make sure that quality materials were used, and that corrosion-preventive coatings were applied to all repaired and replaced parts.


Body Repairs


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Taking Care of the Unexpected


This section covers the more- common problems that motorists experience with their cars. It gives you information about how to safely evaluate the problem and what to do to correct it. If the problem has stranded you on the side of the road, you may be able to get going again. If not, you will also find instructions on getting your car towed.


Compact Spare Tire....................... 200
Changing a Flat Tire..................... 201
If Your Engine Won't Start........... 206


Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly............................. 207


The Starter Operates


Normally................................. 208
Jump Starting................................. 208
If Your Engine Overheats............. 210
Low Oil Pressure Indicator.......... 212
Charging System Indicator........... 213
Malfunction Indicator Lamp........ 214
Closing the Moonroof................... 215
Fuses............................................... 216
Checking and Replacing........... 217
Towing............................................ 221


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main Menust Compact Spare Tire


Your car has a compact spare tire that takes up less space. Use this spare tire as a temporary replace- ment only. Get your regular tire repaired or replaced and put back on your car as soon as you can.


Check the inflation pressure of the compact spare tire every time you check the other tires. It should be inflated to: 60 psi (4.2 kgf/cm2, 420 kPa )


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Follow these precautions whenever you are using the compact spare tire:


INDICATOR LOCATION MARK


Do not exceed 50 mph (80 km/h) under any circumstances.


This tire gives a harsher ride and less traction on some road sur- faces than the regular tire. Use greater caution while driving on this tire.


Do not mount snow chains on the compact spare.


The wheel of the compact spare tire is designed especially to fit your car. Do not use your spare tire on another car unless it is the same make and model.


TREAD WEAR INDICATOR BAR


The compact spare tire has a shorter tread life than a regular tire. Replace it when you can see the tread wear indicator bars. The replacement should be the same size and design tire, mounted on the same wheel. The compact spare tire is not designed to be mounted on a regular wheel, and the compact wheel is not designed for mounting a regular tire.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If you have a flat tire while driving, stop in a safe place to change it. Stopping in traffic or on the shoulder of a busy road is dangerous. Drive slowly along the shoulder until you get to an exit or an area to stop that is far away from the traffic lanes.


The car can easily roll off the jack, seriously injuring anyone underneath.


Follow the directions for changing a tire exactly, and never get under the car when it is supported only by the jack.


Changing a Flat Tire


JACK


TRUNK FLOOR


3. Open the trunk. Raise the trunk


floor by lifting up on the back edge.


4. Take the tool kit out of the trunk.


5. Unscrew the wing bolt and take


the spare tire out of its well.


TOOL KIT


SPARE TIRE


1. Park the car on firm, level ground


away from traffic. Turn on the hazard warning lights and turn the ignition to LOCK (0).


2. Put the transmission in Park


(automatic) or Reverse (manual). Set the parking brake. Have all of the passengers get out of the car while you change the tire.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


JACK


HANDLE


COVER 6. The jack is behind a cover in the left fender. Remove the cover by turning the handle clockwise, then pulling on the cover.


7. Turn the jack's end bracket


counterclockwise to loosen it, then remove the jack.


WHEEL WRENCH


8. Loosen the five wheel nuts 1/2


turn with the wheel wrench.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


JACKING POINT


WHEEL WRENCH


EXTENSION


9. Locate the jacking point nearest the tire you need to change. It is pointed to by mark molded into the underside of the body. Place the jack under the jacking point. Turn the end bracket clockwise until the top of the jack contacts the jacking point. Make sure the jacking point tab is resting in the jack notch.


10.Use the extension and wheel


wrench as shown to raise the car until the flat tire is off the ground.


11.Remove the wheel nuts and flat


tire. Temporarily place the flat tire on the ground with the outside surface of the wheel facing up. You could scratch the wheel if you put it face down.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


BRAKE HUB 12.Before mounting the spare tire, wipe any dirt off the mounting surface of the wheel and hub with a clean cloth.


13.Put on the spare tire. Put the


wheel nuts back on finger-tight, then tighten them in a crisscross pattern with the wheel wrench until the wheel is firmly against the hub. Do not try to tighten them fully.


14.Lower the car to the ground and


remove the jack.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


WING BOLT


SPACER CONE


15.Tighten the wheel nuts securely in the same crisscross pattern. Have the wheel nut torque checked at the nearest automotive service facility. Tighten the wheel nuts to: 80 lbf.ft (11 kgf.m ,108 N .m)


CENTER CAP


16.Remove the center cap before storing the flat tire in the trunk well.


17.Place the flat tire face down in the


spare tire well.


18.Remove the spacer cone from the


wing bolt, turn it over, and put it back on the bolt.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire, If Your Engine Won't Start


19.Secure the flat tire by screwing the wing bolt back into its hole.


20.Store the jack in its holder. Turn


the jack's end bracket to lock it in place. Replace the cover. Store the tool kit.


21.Store the center cap in the trunk.


Make sure it does not get scratch- ed or damaged.


22.Lower the trunk floor, then close


the trunk lid.


Loose items can fly around the interior in a crash and could seriously injure the occupants.


Store the wheel, jack and tools securely before driving.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If Your Engine Won't Start Diagnosing why your engine won't start falls into two areas, depending on what you hear when you turn the key to START (III):


You hear nothing, or almost nothing. The engine's starter motor does not operate at all, or operates very slowly.


You can hear the starter motor operating normally, or the starter motor sounds like it is spinning faster than normal, but the engine does not start up and run.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly When you turn the ignition switch to START (III), you do not hear the normal noise of the engine trying to start. You may hear a clicking sound or series of clicks, or nothing at all. Check these things:


Your vehicle has the Immobilizer System. You should use a properly-coded master or valet key to start the engine (see page 47). A key that is not properly coded will cause the immobilizer system indicator in the dash panel to blink rapidly.


Check the transmission interlock. If you have a manual transmission, the clutch pedal must be pushed all the way to the floor or the starter will not operate. With an automatic transmission, it must be in Park or Neutral.


Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the headlights and check their brightness. If the headlights are very dim or don't light at all, the battery is discharged. See Jump Starting on page 208.


Turn the ignition switch to START (III). If the headlights do not dim, check the condition of the fuses. If the fuses are OK, there is proba- bly something wrong with the electrical circuit for the ignition switch or starter motor. You will need a qualified technician to determine the problem. (See Towing on page 221.)


If Your Engine Won't Start


If the headlights dim noticeably or go out when you try to start the engine, either the battery is dis- charged or the connections are corroded. Check the condition of the battery and terminal connec- tions (see page 163). You can then try jump starting the car from a booster battery (see page 208).


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If Your Engine Won't Start, Jump Starting


The Starter Operates Normally In this case, the starter motor's speed sounds normal, or even faster than normal, when you turn the Ignition switch to START (III), but the engine does not run.


Are you using the proper starting procedure? Refer to Starting the Engine on page 109.


Do you have fuel? Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) for a minute and watch the fuel gauge. The low fuel level warning light may not be working, so you were not reminded to fill the tank.


There may be an electrical problem, such as no power to the fuel pump. Check all the fuses (see page 216).


If you find nothing wrong, you will need a qualified technician to find the problem. See Towing on page 221.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Jump Starting If your car's battery has run down, you may be able to start the engine by using a booster battery. Although this seems like a simple procedure, you should take several precautions.


A battery can explode if you do not follow the correct procedure, seriously injuring anyone nearby.


Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery.


You cannot start a Honda with an automatic transmission by pushing or pulling it.


To jump start your car, follow these directions closely:


1. Open the hood and check the


physical condition of the battery (see page 163). In very cold weather, check the condition of the electrolyte. If it seems slushy or like ice, do not try jump starting until it thaws.


NOTICE


If a battery sits in extreme cold, the electrolyte inside can freeze. Attempting to jump start with a frozen battery can cause it to rupture.


2. Turn off all the electrical acces-


sories: heater, A/C, stereo system, lights, etc. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park and set the parking brake.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Jump Starting


3. Connect one jumper cable to the


positive ( +) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the positive ( +) terminal on your Honda's battery.


4. Connect the second jumper cable to the negative (—) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the grounding strap as shown. Do not connect this jumper cable to any other part of the engine.


5. If the booster battery is in another car, have an assistant start that car and run it at a fast idle.


BOOSTER BATTERY


6. Start your car. If the starter motor


still operates slowly, check the jumper cable connections to make sure they have good metal-to- metal contact.


7. Once your car is running, discon- nect the negative cable from your car, then from the booster battery. Disconnect the positive cable from your car, then the booster battery.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If Your Engine Overheats


The pointer of your car's tempera- ture gauge should stay in the mid- range under most conditions. It may go higher if you are driving up a long steep hill on a very hot day. If it climbs to the red mark, you should determine the reason.


NOTICE


Driving with the temperature gauge pointer at the red mark can cause serious damage to your engine.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Your car can overheat for several reasons, such as lack of coolant or a mechanical problem. The only indication may be the temperature gauge climbing to or above the red mark. Or you may see steam or spray coming from under the hood. In either case, you should take immediate action.


Steam and spray from an overheated engine can seriously scald you.


2. If you see steam and/or spray


coming from under the hood, turn off the engine.


3. If you do not see steam or spray,


leave the engine running and watch the temperature gauge. If the high heat is due to overloading (climbing a long, steep hill on a hot day with the A/C running, for example), the engine should start to cool down almost immediately. If it does, wait until the tempera- ture gauge comes down to the mid- point then continue driving.


Do not open the hood if steam is coming out.


4. If the temperature gauge stays at the red mark, turn off the engine.


1. Safely pull to the side of the road. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Turn off the heating and cooling system and all other accessories. Turn on the hazard warning indicators.


5. Wait until you see no more signs of steam or spray, then open the hood.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst 6. Look for any obvious coolant leaks,


such as a split radiator hose. Everything is still extremely hot, so use caution. If you find a leak, it must be repaired before you continue driving (see Towing on page 221).


7. If you don't find an obvious leak,


check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank (see page 103). If the level is below the MIN mark, add coolant to halfway between the MIN and MAX marks.


8. If there was no coolant in the


reserve tank, you may also have to add coolant to the radiator. Let the engine cool down until the pointer reaches the middle of the tempera- ture gauge, or lower, before check- ing the radiator.


Removing the radiator cap while the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you.


Always let the engine and radiator cool down before removing the radiator cap.


9. Using gloves or a large heavy


cloth, turn the radiator cap counterclockwise, without pushing down, to the first stop. This releases any remaining pressure in the cooling system. After the pressure releases, push down on the cap and turn it until it comes off.


If Your Engine Overheats


10.Start the engine and set the temperature control lever to maximum. Add coolant to the radiator up to the base of the filler neck. If you do not have the proper coolant mixture available, you can add plain water. Remember to have the cooling system drained and refilled with the proper mixture as soon as you can.


11.Put the radiator cap back on


tightly. Run the engine and watch the temperature gauge. If it goes back to the red mark, the engine needs repair. (See Towing on page 221.)


12.If the temperature stays normal,


check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank. If it has gone down, add coolant to the MAX mark. Put the cap back on tightly.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst 4. Start the engine and watch the oil


pressure indicator. If the light does not go out within ten seconds, turn off the engine. There is a mechanical problem that needs to be repaired before you can continue driving. (See Towing on page 221.)


Low Oil Pressure Indicator


LOW OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR


This indicator should light when the ignition is ON (II), and go out after the engine starts. It should never come on when the engine is running. If it starts flashing, it indicates that the oil pressure dropped very low for a moment, then recovered. If the indicator stays on with the engine running, it shows that the engine has lost oil pressure and serious engine damage is possible. In either case, you should take immediate action.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


NOTICE


Running the engine with low oil pressure can cause serious mechanical damage almost immediately. Turn off the engine as soon as you can safely get the car stopped.


1. Safely pull off the road and shut


off the engine. Turn on the hazard warning indicators.


2. Let the car sit for a minute. Open the hood and check the oil level (see page 102). Although oil level and oil pressure are not directly connected, an engine that is very low on oil can lose pressure during cornering and other driving maneuvers.


3. If necessary, add oil to bring the level back to the full mark on the dipstick (see page 146).


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Charging System Indicator


By eliminating as much of the electrical load as possible, you can drive several miles before the battery is too discharged to keep the engine running. Drive to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance.


Immediately turn off all electrical accessories: radio, heater, A/C, rear defogger, cruise control, etc. Try not to use other electrically-operated controls such as the power windows. Keep the engine running and take extra care not to stall it. Starting the engine will discharge the battery rapidly.


CHARGING SYSTEM INDICATOR


This indicator should come on when the ignition is ON (II), and go out after the engine starts. If it comes on brightly when the engine is running, it indicates that the charging system has stopped charging the battery.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst NOTICE


If you keep driving with the malfunc- tion indicator lamp on, you can damage your car's emission controls and engine. Those repairs may not be covered by your car's warranties.


Malfunction Indicator Lamp


MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP


This indicator comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch ON (II). If it comes on at any other time, it indicates one of the engine's emissions control systems may have a problem. Even though you may feel no difference in your car's performance, it can reduce your fuel economy and cause your car to put out excessive emissions. Continued operation may cause serious damage.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If you have recently refueled your vehicle, the cause of this indicator coming on could be a loose or missing fuel fill cap. Check the cap and tighten it until it clicks. Replace the fuel fill cap if it is missing. Tightening the cap will not make the indicator turn off immediately; it takes three driving trips.


If the indicator remains on past three driving trips, or the fuel cap was not loose or missing, have the vehicle checked by the dealer as soon as possible. Drive moderately until the dealer has inspected the problem. Avoid full-throttle acceleration and driving at high speed.


You should also have the dealer inspect your vehicle if this indicator comes on repeatedly, even though it may turn off as you continue driving.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If the electric motor will not close the moonroof, do the following:


1. Check the fuse for the moonroof motor (see page 217). If the fuse is blown, replace it with one of the same or lower rating.


2. Try closing the moonroof. If the


new fuse blows immediately or the moonroof motor still does not operate, you can close the moonroof manually.


3. Get the tool out of the tool kit in


the trunk.


Closing the Moonroof


SOCKET


ROUND PLUG


4. Use a screwdriver or coin to remove the round plug in the center of the headliner.


5. Insert the moonroof wrench into the socket behind this plug. Turn the wrench until the moonroof is fully closed.


6. Remove the wrench. Replace the


round plug.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Fuses


All the electrical circuits in your car have fuses to protect them from a short circuit or overload. These fuses are located in two fuse boxes.


UNDER-HOOD


TAB


INTERIOR


The under-hood fuse box is located in the back of the engine compart- ment on the passenger's side. To open it, push the tab as shown.


The interior fuse box is underneath the dashboard on the driver's side. To open it, turn the knob as shown.


KNOB


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Checking and Replacing Fuses If something electrical in your car stops working, the first thing you should check for is a blown fuse. Determine from the chart on pages 219 and 220, or the diagram on the fuse box lid, which fuse or fuses control that component. Check those fuses first, but check all the fuses before deciding that a blown fuse is not the cause. Replace any blown fuses and check the component's operation.


1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Make sure the headlights and all other accessories are off,


2. Remove the cover from the fuse


box.


Fuses


FUSE PULLER


FUSE


BLOWN


3. Check each of the large fuses in


the under-hood fuse box by looking through the top at the wire inside. Removing these fuses requires a Phillips-head screw- driver.


4. Check the smaller fuses in the


under-hood fuse box and all the fuses in the interior fuse box by pulling out each fuse with the fuse puller provided in the interior fuse box.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Fuses


BLOWN


5. Look for a burned wire inside the fuse. If it is burned, replace it with one of the spare fuses of the same rating or lower.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


If you cannot drive the car without fixing the problem, and you do not have a spare fuse, take a fuse of the same rating or a lower rating from one of the other circuits. Make sure you can do without that circuit temporarily (such as the accessory socket or radio).


If you replace the blown fuse with a spare fuse that has a lower rating, it might blow out again. This does not indicate anything wrong. Replace the fuse with one of the correct rating as soon as you can.


NOTICE


Replacing a fuse with one that has a higher rating greatly increases the chances of damaging the electrical system. If you do not have a replace- ment fuse with the proper rating for the circuit, install one with a lower rating.


6. If the replacement fuse of the


same rating blows in a short time, there is probably a serious electrical problem in your car. Leave the blown fuse in that circuit and have your car checked by a qualified technician.


If the radio fuse is removed, the audio system will disable itself. The next time you turn on the radio you will see "Code" in the frequency display. Use the Preset buttons to enter the five-digit code (see page 95 ).


Main MenuTable of Contentsst INTERIOR FUSE BOX


Fuses


*1 : On Type SH * 2 : On Canadian cars


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Fuses


UNDER-HOOD FUSE BOX


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Towing


If your car needs to be towed, call a professional towing service or, if you belong to one, an organization that provides roadside assistance. Never tow your car behind another car with just a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.


Emergency Towing There are three popular methods of towing a car:


Flat-bed Equipment — The operator loads your car on the back of a truck. This is the best way of trans- porting your Honda.


Wheel Lift Equipment — The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear) and lift them off the ground. The other two tires remain on the ground.


Sling-type Equipment — The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go around parts of the frame or suspension and the cables lift that end of the car off the ground. Your car's suspension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is attempted.


If your Honda cannot be transported by flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the ground. If due to damage, your car must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, do the following:


5-speed Manual Transmission Release the parking brake. Shift the transmission to Neutral.


Automatic Transmission:


Release the parking brake. Start the engine. Shift to D4, then to N. Turn off the engine.


NOTICE


Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine (automatic transmission), your car must be transported on a flat-bed,


It is best to tow the car no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55
km/h).


If your car is equipped with an optional front air spoiler, remove it before towing so it is not damaged.


NOTICE


Trying to lift or tow your car by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not designed to support the car's weight.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The diagrams in this section give you the dimensions and capacities of your Honda, and the locations of the identification numbers. The expla- nations of several electronic and mechanical systems on your Honda are for the more technically-oriented owner.


Identification Numbers................. 224
Specifications................................. 226
Tire Information............................ 228
Tire Size Designation................ 228
Wheel Size Designation............ 228
Tire Speed Ratings.................... 228
Tire Pressure Adjustment


For High Speed Driving........ 229
DOT Tire Quality Grading....... 229
Treadwear.............................. 229
Traction.................................. 230
Temperature.......................... 230


Technical Information


Emission Controls......................... 231
The Clean Air Act...................... 231
Crankcase Emission Control


System..................................... 231


Evaporative Emission Control


System..................................... 231
Exhaust Emission Controls...... 232
PGM-FI System .................... 232
Ignition Timing Control


System................................. 232


Exhaust Gas Recirculation


(EGR) System.................... 232


Three Way Catalytic


Converter............................ 232
Replacement Parts..................... 232
Three Way Catalytic Converter... 233


Technical Information


Main Menust Identification Numbers


Your car has several identifying numbers located in various places.


The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is the 17-digit number your Honda dealer uses to register your car for warranty purposes. It is also necessary for licensing and insuring your car. The easiest place to find the VIN is on a plate fastened to the top of the dashboard. You can see it by looking through the windshield on the driver's side. It is also on the Certification label attached to the driver's doorjamb, and is stamped on the engine compartment bulkhead. The VIN is also provided in bar code on the Certification label.


Technical Information


VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER


CERTIFICATION LABEL


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Identification Numbers


MANUAL TRANSMISSION NUMBER


AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION NUMBER


The Engine Number is stamped into the engine block.


The Transmission Number is on a label on top of the transmission.


ENGINE NUMBER


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Specifications


page 163 .


Technical Information


* 1 : Including the coolant in the reserve tank and that remaining in the


engine. Reserve tank capacity: 0.16 US gal (0.6


,0.13 Imp gal)


*2: Type SH * 3 : Except Type SH * 4 : Excluding the oil remaining in the engine.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Specifications


page 219


page 220


* 1 : Except high-mount brake light installed in rear spoiler *2 : Type SH * 1 : Except Type SH


* 2 : Type SH


*1 : Except Type SH *2 : Type SH


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Tire Speed Ratings The chart below shows many of the different speed ratings currently being used for passenger car tires. The speed rating symbol is part of the tire size designation on the sidewall of the tire. This symbol corresponds to that tire's designed maximum safe operating speed.


Tire Information


Tire Size Designation A tire's sidewall is marked with, a tire size designation. You will need this information when selecting replace- ment tires for your car. The follow- ing explains what the letters and numbers in the tire size designation mean.


(Example tire size designation) 205/50R16 87V


205 — Tire width in millimeters.


50 — Aspect ratio. The tire's section height as a percentage of its width.


V — Speed Rating Symbol. See the speed rating chart in this section for additional information.


Wheel Size Designation Wheels are also marked with important information that you need if you ever have to replace one. The following explains what the letters and numbers in the wheel size designation mean.


(Example wheel size designation) 16 x 6-1/2 JJ


16 — Rim diameter in inches.


R — Tire construction code (Radial).


6-1/2 — Rim width in inches.


16 — Rim diameter in inches.


JJ — Rim contour designation.


87 — Load Index, a numerical code associated with the maximum load the tire can carry.


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Tire Information


Tire Pressure Adjustment For High Speed Driving Honda strongly recommends that you not drive faster than posted speed limits and conditions allow. If you decide it is safe to drive at high speeds, be sure to adjust the cold tire pressures as shown below. If you do not adjust the tire pressure, exces- sive heat can build up and cause sudden tire failure.


Be sure to readjust the pressure for normal driving speeds. You should wait until the tires are cold before adjusting the tire pressure (see page 171).


DOT Tire Quality Grading (U.S. Cars) The tires on your car meet all U.S. Federal Safety Requirements. All tires are also graded for treadwear, traction, and temperature perform- ance according to Department of Transportation (DOT) standards. The following explains these gradings.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a compara- tive rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test, course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and one half (1-1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual condi- tions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.


CONTINUED


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Tire Information


Traction The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.


Warning: The traction grade as- signed to this tire is based on brak- ing (straight ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.


Temperature The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.


Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not over- loaded. Excessive speed, underinfla- tion, or excessive loading either separately or in combination, can cause heat build-up and possible tire failure.


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The burning of gasoline in your car's engine produces several byproducts. Some of these are carbon monoxide (CO), oxides of nitrogen (NOx) and hydrocarbons (HC). Gasoline evaporating from the tank also produces hydrocarbons. Controlling the production of NOx, CO, and HC is important to the environment. Under certain conditions of sunlight and climate, NOx and HC react to form photochemical "smog." Carbon monoxide does not contribute to smog creation, but it is a poisonous gas.


The Clean Air Act The United States Clean Air Act* sets standards for automobile emissions. It also requires that automobile manufacturers explain to owners how their emission controls work and what to do to maintain them. This section summarizes how the emission controls work. Scheduled maintenance is on page 140.


* In Canada, Honda vehicles comply with the Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (CMVSS) for Emissions valid at the time they are manufactured.


Emission Controls


Crankcase Emission Control System Your car has a Positive Crankcase Ventilation System. This keeps gasses that build up in the engine's crankcase from going into the atmosphere. The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve routes them from the crankcase back to the intake manifold. They are then drawn into the engine and burned.


Evaporative Emission Control System As gasoline evaporates in the fuel tank, an evaporative emission control canister filled with charcoal adsorbs the vapor. It is stored in this canister while the engine is off. After the engine is started and warmed up, the vapor is drawn into the engine and burned during driving.


Technical Information


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Emission Controls


Exhaust Emission Controls The exhaust emission controls include four systems: PGM-FI, Ignition Timing Control, Exhaust Gas Recirculation and Three Way Catalytic Converter. These four systems work together to control the engine's combustion and minimize the amount of HC, CO, and NOx that comes out the tailpipe. The exhaust emission control systems are separate from the crankcase and evaporative emission control systems.


PGM-FI System The PGM-FI System uses sequential multiport fuel injection. It has three subsystems: Air Intake, Engine Control, and Fuel Control. The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses various sensors to determine how much air is going into the engine. It then controls how much fuel to inject under all operating conditions.


Technical Information


Ignition Timing Control System This system constantly adjusts the ignition timing, reducing the amount of HC, CO and NOx produced.


Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system takes some of the exhaust gas and routes it back into the intake manifold. Adding exhaust gas to the air/fuel mixture reduces the amount of NOx produced when the fuel is burned.


Three Way Catalytic Converter The three way catalytic converter is in the exhaust system. Through chemical reactions, it converts HC, CO, and NOx in the engine's exhaust to carbon dioxide (CO2), dinitrogen (N2), and water vapor.


Replacement Parts The emission control systems are designed and certified to work to- gether in reducing emissions to levels that comply with the Clean Air Act. To make sure the emissions remain low, you should use only new Genuine Honda replacement parts or their equivalent for repairs. Using lower quality parts may increase the emissions from your car.


The emissions control systems are covered by warranties separate from the rest of your car. Read your warranty manual for more informa- tion.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The three way catalytic converter contains precious metals that serve as catalysts, promoting chemical reactions to convert the exhaust gasses without affecting the metals. The catalytic converter is referred to as a three-way catalyst, since it acts on HC, CO, and NOx. A replacement unit must be an original Honda part or its equivalent.


The three way catalytic converter must operate at a high temperature for the chemical reactions to take place. It can set on fire any com- bustible materials that come near it. Park your car away from high grass, dry leaves, or other flammables.


Three Way Catalytic Converter


Keep the engine tuned-up.


Have your car diagnosed and repaired if it is misfiring, back- firing, stalling, or otherwise not running properly.


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