Download PDF Manual

the reservoir. The fluid should be between the UPPER LEVEL and LOWER LEVEL. If it is below the LOWER LEVEL, add power steering fluid to the UPPER LEVEL.


NOTICE


Using automatic transmission fluid or another brand of power steering fluid will damage the system. Use only GENUINE HONDA Power Steering Fluid-V.


A low power steering fluid level can indicate a leak in the system. Check the fluid level frequently and have the system inspected as soon as possible.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The air cleaner element should be replaced every 2 years or 48,000 km (30,000 miles), whichever comes first. Under severe driving condi- tions, it should also be cleaned every 12 months or 24,000 km (15,000 miles), whichever comes first.


Cleaning (Severe Conditions) Clean the air cleaner element by blowing compressed air through it in the opposite direction to normal air flow. If you do not have access to compressed air (such as a gas station), ask your Honda dealer to do this service.


Follow the replacement procedure for removal and reinstallation.


Air Cleaner


CLAMPS


The air cleaner element is inside the box on the passenger's side of the engine compartment. To replace it:


1. Unsnap the four hold-down clamps and remove the air cleaner housing cover.


2. Remove the old air cleaner


element. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing with a damp rag.


AIR CLEANER ELEMENT


3. Place the new air cleaner ele-


ment in the air cleaner housing.


4. Reinstall the air cleaner housing cover, snap the four hold-down clamps back into place.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Fuel Filter, Spark Plugs


Fuel Filter The fuel filter should be replaced every 4 years or 96,000 km (60,000
miles), whichever comes first.


Have a qualified technician change the fuel filter. Since the fuel system is under pressure, gasoline can spray out and create a hazard if all fuel line connections are not han- dled correctly.


The filter may require replacement sooner if you happen to buy one or more tankfuls of contaminated gasoline. Have the filter tested or replaced if you suspect it has been clogged by contaminants.


Spark Plugs (Except US: VTEC, Canada: SR-V) The original spark plugs in your car need to be replaced every 2
years or 48,000 km (30,000 miles), whichever comes first.


(US: VTEC, Canada: SR-V) The original spark plugs in your car are a special platinum tipped design for longer life. They only need to be replaced every 6 years or 96,000 km (60,000 miles), whichever comes first.


Maintenance


Replacement


SPARK PLUG CAP


1. Clean up any dirt and oil that


have collected around the spark plug caps. (US: VTEC, Canada: SR-V) First remove the four nuts from the plug wire cover and remove the cover.


2. Remove the spark plug cap by


pulling it straight out.


3. Remove the spark plug, using a


16 mm (5/8 inch) spark plug socket.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Spark Plugs


NOTICE


Tighten the spark plugs carefully. A spark plug that is too loose can overheat and damage the engine. Over-tightening can cause damage to the threads in the cylinder head.


7. Install the spark plug cap.


8. Repeat this procedure for the


other three spark plugs. (US: VTEC, Canada: SR-V) Reinstall the plug wire cover and tighten the four nuts.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


4. Set the gap on the new spark


plug with a wire-type spark plug gapping tool. Do not use a blade- type feeler gauge. Plug gap should be: 1.1 mm (0.04 in)


5. Put the new spark plug into the


socket, then thread it into the hole. Screw it in by hand so you do not crossthread it.


6. Torque the spark plug. (If you do not have a torque wrench, tight- en the spark plug one-quarter turn after it contacts the cylinder head.) Tightening torque: 18 N.m(1.8 kg-m,13 Ib-ft)


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Spark Plugs, Battery


Specifications:


(US: S, Canada: S) Normal driving conditions


NGK: Nippondenso: KJ16CR-L11


ZFR5F-11


Hot climates, or continuous high speed driving


NGK: Nippondenso: KJ20CR-L11


ZFR6F-11


(US: Si, Si 4WS, Canada: SR, SR 4WS) Normal driving conditions


NGK: Nippondenso: KJ20CR-L11


ZFR6F-11


Hot climates, or continuous high speed driving


NGK: Nippondenso: KJ22CR-L11


ZFR7F-11


Maintenance


(US: VTEC, Canada: SR-V) Normal driving conditions


NGK: Nippondenso: PKJ 20CR-L11


PZFR6F-11


Hot climates, or continuous high speed driving


NGK: Nippondenso: PK22PR-L11


PFR7G-11


Battery Check the condition of your car's battery monthly. You should check for proper electrolyte level and corrosion on the terminals.


The battery gives off explo- sive hydrogen gas during nor- mal operation. A spark or open flame can cause the battery to explode with enough force to kill or seriously hurt you.


Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery.


Wear protective clothing and a face shield, or have a skilled mechanic do the battery main- tenance.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The battery contains sulfuric acid (electrolyte) which is highly corrosive and poisonous.


Getting electrolyte in your eyes or on your skin can cause serious burns. Wear protective clothing and eye protection when working near the battery.


Swallowing electrolyte can cause fatal poisoning if immedi- ate action is not taken.


KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN


Emergency Procedures


Eyes — Flush with water from a cup or other container for at least fifteen minutes. (Water under pressure can damage the eye.) Immediately call a physician or 911.


Skin — Remove contaminated clothing. Flush the skin with large quantities of water. Call a physi- cian immediately.


Swallowing — Drink water or milk. Call your local Poison Control Center or a physician immediately.


Battery


TEST INDICATOR WINDOW


Check the battery condition by looking at the test indicator window on the battery:


Blue — Good condition Red — Add distilled water White — Charging necessary


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Battery


PLATE Check the battery terminals for corrosion (a white or yellowish powder). To remove it, cover the terminals with a solution of baking soda and water. It will bubble up and turn brown. When this stops, wash it off with plain water. Dry off the battery with a cloth or paper towel. Coat the terminals with grease to help prevent future corrosion.


Maintenance


If your car's battery is discon- nected or goes dead, the audio system will disable itself. The next time you turn on the radio you will see "Code" in the frequency display. Use the Preset buttons to enter the five-digit code (see page 95).


NOTICE


Charging the battery with the cables connected can seriously damage your car's electronic controls. Detach the battery cables before connecting the battery to a charger.


If the terminals are severely cor- roded, clean them with baking soda and water. Then use a wrench to loosen and remove the cables from the terminals. Always disconnect the negative ( — ) cable first and reconnect it last. Clean the battery terminals with a terminal cleaning tool or wire brush. Reconnect and tighten the cables, then coat the terminals with grease.


When reconnecting the positive ( + ) terminal on manual transmission models, make sure to place the cable securely in the clamp in the plate.


If you need to connect the battery to a charger, disconnect both cables to prevent damage to the car's electrical system.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Windshield Wipers


Check the condition of the wind- shield wiper blades at least every six months. Look for signs of crack- ing in the rubber, or areas that are getting hard. Replace the blades if you find these signs, or they leave streaks and unwiped areas when used.


WIPER ARMS


LOCK TAB


To replace:


1. Raise the wiper arm off the


windshield.


2. Disconnect the blade assembly


from the wiper arm by pushing in the lock tab. Hold it in while you push the blade assembly toward the base of the arm.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Windshield Wipers


BLADE


BLADE


5. Slide the new wiper blade into the holder until the tabs lock.


6. Slide the blade assembly onto the wiper arm. Make sure it locks in place.


7. Lower the wiper arm down


against the windshield.


3. Remove the blade from its holder by grasping the tabbed end of the blade. Pull firmly until the tabs come out of the holder.


REINFORCEMENT


4. Examine the new wiper blades. If they have no plastic or metal rein- forcement along the back edge, remove the metal reinforcement strips from the old wiper blade and install them in the slots along the edge of the new blade.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Optional for S model Your car's air conditioning is a sealed system. Any major mainte- nance, such as recharging, should be done by a qualified technician. There are a couple of things you can do to make sure the air condi- tioning works efficiently.


Periodically check the engine's radiator and air conditioning condenser for leaves, insects, and dirt stuck to the front surface. These block the air flow and reduce cooling efficiency. Use a light spray from a hose or a soft brush to remove them.


AIR CONDITIONING CONDENSER


NOTICE


The condenser and radiator fins bend easily. Only use a low- pressure spray or soft-bristle brush to clean them.


Run the air conditioning at least once a week during the cold weather months. Run it for at least ten minutes while you are driving at a steady speed with the engine at normal operating temperature. This circulates the lubricating oil contained in the refrigerant.


Air Conditioning


If the air conditioning does not get as cold as before, it is probably because some of the refrigerant has leaked from the system. Have your dealer check the system for leaks and recharge the system with Refrigerant R134a. Charging quantity: 600 — 650 g (21.2—23.0 oz)


NOTICE


Whenever you have the air condi- tioning system serviced, make sure the service facility uses a refrige- rant recycling system. This system captures the refrigerant for reuse. Releasing refrigerant into the at- mosphere can damage the environ- ment.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Engine Belts, Tires


Engine Belts


POWER STEERING BELT


The belts should have the following "play" or deflection. Alternator belt:


(With air conditioning) 10.0 —12.0 mm (0.39 — 0.47 in) (Without air conditioning) 10.5 — 12.5 mm (0.41 — 0.49 in)


Power steering belt:


13.5 — 16.5 mm (0.53 — 0.65 in)


ALTERNATOR BELT


If you see signs of wear or loose- ness, have your dealer adjust or replace the belts.


Check the condition of the two engine belts. Examine the edges of each belt for cracks or fraying. Check the tension of each belt by pushing on it with your thumb midway between the pulleys.


Maintenance


Tires Check the inflation and condition of your car's tires at least once a month.


Inflation Check the pressure in the tires when they are cold. This means the car has been parked for at least three hours. If you have to drive the car before checking the tire pressure, the tires can still be considered "cold" if you drive less than 1.6 km (1 mile).


If you check the pressure when the tires are hot (the car has been driven several miles), you will see readings 28 to 41 kPa (0.3 to 0.4
kg/cm2,4 to 6 psi) higher than the cold reading. This is normal. Do not let air out to match the specified cold pressure. The tire will be underinflated.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst The correct cold tire pressures are: (S)


205 kPa (2.1 kg/cm2 , 30 psi)


(Except S)


220 kPa (2.2 kg/cm2 , 32 psi)


Compact spare:


415 kPa(4.15 kg/cm 2 , 60 psi)


TIRE INFORMATION LABEL These pressures are also given on the tire information label on the driver's door jamb. Remember to check the pressure in the spare tire at the same time.


Tires


You should get your own tire pressure gauge and use it at all times. That makes it easier for you to tell if a pressure loss is caused by a tire problem and not a variation between gauges.


Inspection Every time you check inflation pressures, you should also examine the tires for damage, foreign objects, and wear. You should look for:


Keeping the tires properly inflated provides you with the best combi- nation of riding comfort, handling and tread life. Underinflated tires wear unevenly, reduce your car's handling, and are more likely to fail because of higher temperatures. Overinflated tires make your car ride more harshly, are more prone to damage from road hazards, and wear unevenly.


Bumps or bulges in the tread or side of the tire. Replace the tire if you find either of these condi- tions.


Cuts, splits, or cracks in the side of the tire. Replace the tire if you can see fabric or cord.


Excessive tread wear.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Tires


INDICATOR LOCATION MARKS


TREAD WEAR INDICATORS Your car's tires have wear indica- tors molded into the tread. When the tread wears down to that point, you will see a 12.7 mm (1/2 inch) wide band running across the tread. This shows there is less than 1.6
mm (1/16 inch) of tread left on the tire. A tire that is this worn gives very little traction on wet roads. You should replace the tire if you can see the tread wear indicator in three or more places around the tire.


Maintenance


Maintenance In addition to proper inflation, correct wheel alignment helps to decrease tire wear. You should get your car's wheel alignment check- ed every 12 months or 24,000 km (15,000 miles).


The tires were properly balanced by the factory. They may need to be rebalanced at some time before they are worn out. Have your dealer check the tires if you feel a consistent vibration while driving. A tire should always be rebalanced if it is removed from the wheel. Make sure the installer balances the wheels when you have new tires installed. This increases riding comfort and tire life.


NOTICE (Except S) Improper wheel weights can damage your car's aluminum


wheels. Use only genuine Honda wheel weights for balancing.


Tire Rotation


Front


To help increase tire life and distribute wear more evenly, you should have the tires rotated every 12,000 km (7,500 miles). Move the tires to the positions shown in the chart each time they are rotated.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing Tires The tires that came with your Honda were selected to match the performance capabilities of the car and provide the best combination of handling, ride comfort, and long life. You should replace them with radial tires of the same size, load range, and speed rating. Mixing radial and bias-ply or bias-belted tires on your car can reduce its braking ability, traction, and steering accuracy.


It is best to replace all four tires at the same time. If that is not possi- ble or necessary, then replace the two front tires or the two rear tires as a pair. Replacing just one tire can seriously affect your car's han- dling. If you ever need to replace a wheel, make sure you use an identical style wheel that originally came on your Honda. Replacement wheels are available at your Honda dealer.


Wheels and Tires


Wheel: (S)


14x5.5JJ


(Except S)


15x6.5JJ


Tire: (S)


185/70R1487H


(Except S)


205/55R1587V


DOT Tire Quality Grading (US Cars) The tires on your car meet all U.S. Federal Safety Requirements. All tires are also graded for treadwear, traction, and temperature perform- ance according to Department of Transportation (DOT) standards. The following explains these gradings.


Tires


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a compara- tive rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under con- trolled conditions on a specified government test course. For exam- ple, a tire graded 150 would wear one and one half (1-1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative per- formance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, how- ever, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road character- istics and climate.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Warning : The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading either separately or in combination, can cause heat build-up and possible tire failure.


Tires


Traction The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.


Warning: The traction grade as- signed to this tire is based on brak- ing (straight ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.


Temperature The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Winter Driving Tires that are marked "M+S" or "All Season" on the sidewall have an all-weather tread design. They should be suitable for most winter driving conditions. Tires without these markings are designed for optimum traction in dry conditions. They may not provide adequate performance in winter driving. For the best performance in snowy or icy conditions, you should install snow tires or tire chains. They may be required by local laws under certain conditions.


Snow Tires If you mount snow tires on your Honda, make sure they are radial tires of the same size and load range as the original tires. Mount snow tires on all four wheels to balance your car's handling in all weather conditions. Keep in mind the traction provided by snow tires on dry roads may not be as high as your car's original-equipment tires. You should drive cautiously even when the roads are clear. Check with the tire dealer for maximum speed recommendations.


Tire Chains Mount snow chains on your car when warranted by driving condi- tions or required by local laws. Make sure the chains are the cor- rect size for your tires. Install them only on the front tires. If metal chains are used, they must be SAE class"S". Cable type traction de- vices can also be used.


Tires


When installing chains, follow the manufacturer's instructions and mount them as tightly as you can. Drive slowly with chains installed. If you hear the chains contacting the body or chassis, stop and tighten them. If they still make contact, slow down until it stops. Remove the chains as soon as you begin driving on cleared roads.


NOTICE


Chains of the wrong size or that are improperly installed can damage your car's brake lines, suspension, body, and wheels. Stop driving if you hear the chains hitting any part of the car.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing a Headlight Bulb Your car has two bulbs on each side, four in total. Make sure you are replacing the bulb that is burned out. Your car uses halogen headlight bulbs. When replacing a bulb, handle it by its plastic case and protect the glass from contact with your skin or hard objects. If you touch the glass, clean it with denatured alcohol and a clean cloth.


NOTICE


Halogen headlight bulbs get very hot when lit. Oil, perspiration, or a scratch on the glass can cause the bulb to overheat and shatter.


Lights


Check the operation of your car's exterior lights at least once a month. A burned out bulb can create an unsafe condition by reducing your car's visibility and the ability to signal your intentions to other drivers. Check the following:


Headlights (low and high beam) Parking lights Taillights Brake lights High-mount brake light Turn signals Back-up lights Hazard light function License plate light Side marker lights Daytime running lights (Canadian cars)


If you find any bulbs are burned out, replace them as soon as possi- ble. Refer to the chart on page 207 to determine what type of replacement bulb is needed.


Maintenance


1. Open the hood.


If you need to change the high beam headlight bulb on the passenger's side, remove the radiator reserve tank by pulling it straight up.


2. To disconnect the bulb from the


electrical harness, push on the end of the lock tab to release the connector then push the connec- tor straight down.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst 3. Turn the lock ring counterclock- wise (about one-quarter turn) to unlock the headlight bulb.


4. Remove the bulb by pulling it


straight out of its recess.


5. Install the new bulb with the electrical connector pointing down. Make sure all three tabs on the bulb are seated in their slots in the headlight.


6. Turn the lock ring clockwise to


lock the bulb in place. Do not force the ring. Check the seating of the bulb's tabs if the ring will not return to its original position.


7. Reinstall the harness connector


on the bulb connector. Make sure it locks in place. Turn on the headlights to test the new bulb.


8. (Passenger's side)


Reinstall the radiator reserve tank.


Lights


Replacing a Parking Light Bulb


SCREW


1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver


to remove the screw from the top of the fender.


2. Move the parking light assembly forward until it slides out of the body.


3. Turn the socket one-quarter turn


counterclockwise to remove it from the lens.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


4. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


5. Insert the socket back into the


lens. Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


6. Turn on the parking lights to


make sure the new bulb works.


7. To reinstall the light assembly in the fender, line up the fingers on the light assembly with the holes in the fender. Push the light assembly straight back.


8. Install the mounting screw and


tighten it securely.


Maintenance


Replacing a Front Side Marker Light Bulb


BULB


SCREW


FRONT SIDE MARKER ASSEMBLY


BULB HOLDER


1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the side marker assem- bly's mounting screw.


3. Remove the bulb holder from the side marker assembly by turning it one-quarter counterclockwise.


2. Remove the side marker assem-


bly from the bumper.


4. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst 5. Push the bulb holder into the side


marker assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks.


6. Test the side marker to make sure the new bulb is working.


7. Put the side marker assembly


into the bumper. Make sure the tab on the side marker assembly fits into the bumper slot. Tighten the mounting screw.


Lights


Replacing a Front Turn Signal Light Bulb


TURN SIGNAL ASSEMBLY


SCREW


BULB


BULB HOLDER


1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the turn signal assem- bly's mounting screw.


3. Remove the bulb holder from the turn signal assembly by turning it counterclockwise.


2. Remove the turn signal assembly


from the bumper.


4. Remove the burned out bulb


from the socket by pushing it in and turning counterclockwise until it unlocks. Install the new bulb.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing a High-mount Brake Light Bulb


Lights


5. Push the bulb holder into the


turn signal assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks.


6. Test the turn signals to make sure the new bulb is working.


7. Put the turn signal assembly into


the bumper. Make sure the tab on the turn signal assembly fits into the bumper slot. Tighten the mounting screw.


COVER


1. Remove the cover by pulling it


down and sliding it forward.


4. Test the lights to make sure the


new bulb is working.


2. Determine which bulb is burned


out.


5. Reinstall the cover by sliding it into position and pushing it up.


3. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it bottoms.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing Rear Bulbs


COVER


Lights


4. Install the new bulb in the socket.


Test it to make sure it works.


5. Reinstall the bulb holder assem-


bly. Install the two screws and tighten them securely.


1. Open the trunk and the taillight


assembly cover.


2. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the two screws from the bulb holder. Remove the holder from the taillight assem- bly.


3. Try the tail/stoplights, rear turn


signals and back-up lights to verify which bulb needs replac- ing. Remove that bulb from the socket by pushing it in slightly and turning it counterclockwise.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


Replacing a Rear Side Marker Light Bulb


5. Insert the socket in the assembly.


Turn it clockwise to lock it in place.


6. Reinstall the side marker assem-


bly in the fender. Tighten the mounting screw securely.


SCREW


1. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen the side marker assem- bly mounting screw.


3. Remove the socket from the light assembly by turning it counterclockwise.


2. Remove the assembly from the fender by pulling out the back edge and sliding the assembly backwards.


4. Remove the bulb from the socket


by pulling it straight out. Install the new bulb. Turn on the headlights to test the bulb.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Replacing a Rear License Bulb


4. Turn on the parking lights and


check that the new bulb is working.


5. Reinstall the cover and the lens. Put the license light assembly in place. Reinstall the two screws and tighten them securely.


1. Remove the two screws and


remove the license light assem- bly.


2. Remove the lens from the rubber


seal and the metal cover.


3. Pull the bulb straight out of its


socket. Push the new bulb in until it bottoms in the socket.


Lights


Replacing Interior and Trunk Light Bulbs


INTERIOR LIGHT


1. Remove the lens by carefully


prying on the edge of the lens in the middle with a fingernail file or a small flat-tip screwdriver. Do not pry on the edge of the housing around the lens.


CONTINUED


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Lights


TRUNK LIGHT


2. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of its metal tabs.


3. Push the new bulb into the metal tabs. Snap the lens back in place.


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Storing Your Car


If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than 1
month), there are several things you should do to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. It is best to store your car indoors if at all possible.


Block the rear wheels.


If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jackstands so the tires are off the ground.


Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors).


Fill the fuel tank.


Disconnect the battery.


If you store your car for 12 months or longer, have your Honda dealer perform the inspections called for in the 24 months/48,000 km (30,000
miles) maintenance schedule as soon as you take it out of storage (see page 129). The replacements called for in the maintenance schedule are not needed unless the car has actually reached that time or mileage.


Change the engine oil and filter (see page 137).


Wash and dry the exterior completely.


Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry.


Leave the parking brake off. Put the transmission in Reverse (manual) or Park (automatic).


Cover the car with a "breathable" car cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton. Nonporous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture which can damage the paint.


If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).


Maintenance


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Appearance Care


Regular cleaning and polishing of your Honda helps to keep it "new" looking. This section gives you hints on how to clean and preserve your car's appearance: the paint, brightwork, wheels and interior. Also included are several things you can do to help prevent corro- sion.


Exterior Care................................ 176
Washing..................................... 176
Waxing....................................... 177
Aluminum Wheels................... 177
Paint Touch-up......................... 178
Interior Care.................................. 179
Carpeting................................... 179
Fabric......................................... 179
Vinyl........................................... 179
Seat Belts................................... 179
Windows..................................... 180
Air Fresheners.......................... 180
Corrosion Protection................... 180
Body Repairs................................. 181


Appearance Care


Main Menust Exterior Care


Washing Frequent washing helps preserve your car's beauty. Dirt and grit can scratch the paint, while tree sap and bird droppings can perma- nently ruin the finish.


Wash your car in a shady area, not in direct sunlight. If the car is parked in the sun, move it into the shade and let the exterior cool down before you start.


NOTICE


Chemical solvents and strong cleaners can damage the paint, metal, and plastic on your car. Only use the solvents and cleaners recommended in this Owner's Manual.


Appearance Care


When you have washed and rinsed the whole exterior, dry it with a chamois or soft towel. Letting it air-dry will cause dulling and water spots.


As you dry the car, inspect it for chips and scratches that could allow corrosion to start. Repair them with touch-up paint (see page 178).


Rinse the car thoroughly with cool water to remove loose dirt.


Fill a bucket with cool water. Mix in a mild detergent, such as dishwashing liquid or a product made especially for car washing.


Wash the car, using the water and detergent solution and a soft- bristle brush, sponge, or soft cloth. Start at the top and work your way down. Rinse frequently.


Check the body for road tar, tree sap, etc. Remove these stains with tar remover or turpentine. Rinse it off immediately so it does not harm the finish. Remem- ber to re-wax these areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Waxing Always wash and dry the whole car before waxing it. You should wax your car, including the metal trim, whenever water sits on the surface in large patches. It should form into beads or droplets after waxing.


You should use a quality liquid or paste wax. Apply it according to the instructions on the container. In general, there are two types of products:


Waxes — A wax coats the finish and protects it from damage by exposure to sunlight, air pollution, etc. You should use a wax on your Honda when it is new.


Polishes — Polishes and cleaner/ waxes can restore the shine to paint that has oxidized and lost some of its shine. They normally contain mild abrasives and solvents that remove the top layer of the finish. You should use a polish on your Honda if the finish does not have its original shine after using a wax.


Cleaning tar, insects, etc. with removers also takes off the wax. Remember to re-wax those areas, even if the rest of the car does not need waxing.


Exterior Care


Aluminum Wheels Clean your Honda's aluminum alloy wheels as you do the rest of the exterior. Wash them with the same solution, and rinse them thoroughly.


The wheels have a protective clear- coat that keeps the aluminum from corroding and tarnishing. Using harsh chemicals, including some commercial wheel cleaners, or stiff brushes can damage this clear-coat. Only use a mild detergent and soft brush or sponge to clean the wheels.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Exterior Care


Paint Touch-up Your dealer has touch-up paint to match your car's color. The color code is printed on a sticker on the driver's door jamb. Take this code to your dealer so you are sure to get the correct color.


Appearance Care


Examine the chip or scratch closely before repairing it. If it does not go down to bare metal, clean it with soap and water and apply the touch-up paint. If it does go to the metal, apply a coat of primer first. After this dries, apply the touch-up paint. Build up the paint in the damaged area to the level of the surrounding paint. Several thin coats of paint are better than one thick coat.


TOUCH-UP PAINT


Inspect your car for chipped or scratched paint every time you wash it. Repair it as soon as possible to prevent corrosion. Use the touch-up paint on small chips and scratches. More extensive damage should be repaired by a professional.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Vinyl Remove dirt and dust with a vacuum cleaner. Wipe the vinyl with a soft cloth dampened in a solution of mild soap and water. Use the same solution with a soft- bristle brush on more difficult spots. You can also use commercially- available spray or foam-type vinyl cleaners.


Seat Belts If your seat belts get dirty, you can use a soft brush with a mixture of mild soap and warm water to clean them. Do not use bleach, dye, or cleaning solvents. They can weaken the belt material. Let the belts air-dry before you use the car.


Carpeting Vacuum the carpeting frequently to remove dirt. Ground-in dirt will make the carpet wear out faster. Periodically shampoo the carpet to keep it looking new. Use one of the foam-type carpet cleaners on the market. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner, apply- ing it with a sponge or soft brush. Keep the carpeting as dry as possi- ble by not adding water to the foam.


Fabric Vacuum dirt and dust out of the material frequently. For general cleaning, use a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water, letting it air dry. To clean off stubborn spots, use a commercially-available fabric cleaner. Test it on a hidden area of the fabric first, to make sure it does not bleach or stain the fabric. Follow the instructions that come with the cleaner.


Interior Care


METAL LOOP Dirt build-up in the metal loops of the seat belt anchors can cause the belts to retract slowly. Wipe the inside of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in isopropyl alcohol or mixture of mild soap and warm water.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Interior Care, Corrosion Protection


Air Fresheners If you want to use an air freshener/ deodorizer in the interior of your car, it is best to use a solid type. Some liquid air fresheners contain chemicals that may cause parts of the interior trim and fabric to crack or discolor.


If you use a liquid air freshener, make sure you fasten it securely so it does not spill as you drive.


Corrosion Protection Two factors normally contribute to causing corrosion in your car:


1. Moisture trapped in body cavi- ties. Dirt and road salt that col- lects in hollows on the underside of the car stays damp, promoting corrosion in that area.


2. Removal of paint and protective


coatings from the exterior and underside of the car.


Many corrosion-preventive mea- sures are built into your Honda. You can help keep your car from corroding by performing some simple periodic maintenance:


Repair chips and scratches in the paint as soon as you discover them.


Windows Clean the windows, inside and out, with a commercially-available glass cleaner. You can also use a mixture of one part white vinegar to ten parts water. This will remove the haze that builds up on the inside of the windows. Use a soft cloth or paper towels to clean all glass and clear plastic surfaces.


NOTICE


The rear window defogger wires are bonded to the inside of the glass. Wiping vigorously up-and-down can dislodge and break the defog- ger wires. When cleaning the rear window, use gentle pressure and wipe side-to-side.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Inspect and clean out the drain holes in the bottom of the doors and body.


Check the floor coverings for dampness. Carpeting and floor mats may remain damp for a long time, especially in winter. This dampness can eventually cause the floor panels to corrode.


Use a high-pressure spray to clean the underside of your car. This is especially important in areas that use road salt in winter. It is also a good idea in humid climates and areas subject to salt air. Cars equipped with ABS have a sensor and wiring at each wheel. Be careful not to damage them.


Have the corrosion-preventive coatings on the underside of your car inspected and repaired periodically.


Corrosion Protection, Body Repairs


Body Repairs Body repairs affect your car's resistance to corrosion. If your car needs repairs after a collision, pay close attention to the parts used in the repair and the quality of the work.


Make sure the repair facility uses genuine Honda replacement body parts. Some companies make sheetmetal pieces that seem to duplicate the original Honda body parts, but are actually inferior in fit, finish, and quality. Once installed, they do not give the same high- quality appearance and level of corrosion resistance.


When reporting your collision to the insurance company, tell them you want genuine Honda parts used in the repair. Although most insurers recognize the higher quality of original parts, some may try to specify that the repairs be done with the "lowest cost" parts available. You should investigate this before any repairs are begun.


Take your car to your authorized Honda dealer for inspection after the repairs are completed. He can make sure that quality materials were used, and that corrosion- preventive coatings were applied to all repaired and replaced parts.


Appearance Care


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Taking Care of the Unexpected


This section covers the more- common problems that motorists experience with their cars. It gives you information about how to safely evaluate the problem and what to do to correct it. If the problem has stranded you on the side of the road, you may be able to get going again. If not, you will also find instructions on getting your car towed.


Compact Spare Tire..................... 184
Changing a Flat Tire................... 185
If Your Engine Won't Start........ 190
Nothing Happens...................... 190
The Starter Operates


Normally................................ 191
Jump Starting................................ 191
If Your Engine Overheats.......... 193
Low Oil Pressure.......................... 195
Charging System Indication...... 196
Malfunction Indicator Lamp/


Check Engine Light................. 197
Closing the Sunroof..................... 198
Fuses............................................... 199
Checking and Replacing......... 200
Towing........................................... 202


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main Menust Compact Spare Tire


Your car has a compact spare tire that takes up less space. Use this spare tire as a temporary replace- ment only. Get your regular tire repaired or replaced and put back on your car as soon as you can.


Check the inflation pressure of the compact spare tire every time you check the other tires. It should be inflated to: 415 kPa (4.15 kg/cm2 , 60 psi)


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Follow these precautions whenever you are using the compact spare tire:


INDICATOR LOCATION MARK


Do not exceed 50 mph (80 km/h) under any circumstances.


This tire gives a harsher ride and less traction on some road sur- faces than the regular tire. Use greater caution while driving on this tire.


Do not mount snow chains on the compact spare.


The wheel of the compact spare tire is designed especially to fit your car. Do not use your spare tire on another car unless it is the same make and model.


TREAD WEAR INDICATOR BAR


The compact spare tire has a shorter tread life than a regular tire. Replace it when you can see the tread wear indicator bars. The replacement should be the same size and design tire, mounted on the same wheel. The compact spare tire is not designed to be mounted on a regular wheel, and the com- pact wheel is not designed for mounting a regular tire.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If you have a flat tire while driving, stop in a safe place to change it. Stopping in traffic or on the shoul- der of a busy road is dangerous. Drive slowly along the shoulder until you get to an exit or an area to stop that is far away from the traf- fic lanes.


The car can easily roll off the jack, seriously injuring anyone underneath.


Follow the directions for chang- ing a tire exactly, and never get under the car when it is supported only by the jack.


1. Park the car on firm, level


ground away from traffic. Turn on the hazard warning lights and turn the ignition to LOCK (0).


Changing a Flat Tire


TRUNK FLOOR


JACK


5. Unscrew the wing bolt and take the spare tire out of the trunk.


SPARE TIRE


TOOL KIT


2. Put the transmission in Park


(automatic) or Reverse (manual). Set the parking brake.


3. Open the trunk. Raise the trunk


floor by lifting up on the back edge.


4. Take the tool kit out of the trunk.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


HANDLE


COVER


JACK


6. The jack is behind a cover in the right fender. Remove the cover by turning the handle clockwise, then pulling on the cover.


7. Turn the jack's end bracket


counterclockwise to loosen it, then remove the jack.


8. Loosen the four wheel nuts 1/2


turn with the wheel wrench.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


JACKING POINT


9. Locate the jacking point nearest the tire you need to change. It is pointed to by an arrow molded into the underside of the body. Place the jack under the jacking point. Turn the end bracket clockwise until the top of the jack contacts the jacking point. Make sure the jacking point tab is resting on the jack notch.


WHEEL WRENCH


EXTENSION


10. Use the extension and wheel


wrench as shown to raise the car until the flat tire is off the ground.


11. Remove the wheel nuts and flat tire. Temporarily place the flat tire on the ground with the outside surface of the wheel facing up. The outside surface contacting the ground could damage the wheel surface.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Changing a Flat Tire


BRAKE HUB


12. Before mounting the spare tire, wipe any dirt off the mounting surface of the wheel and hub with a cloth.


13. Put on the spare tire. Put the


wheel nuts back on finger-tight, then tighten them in a crisscross pattern with the wheel wrench until the wheel is firmly against the hub. Do not try to tighten them fully.


14. Lower the car to the ground and


remove the jack.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst WING BOLT


Changing a Flat Tire


SPACER CONE


19. Store the jack in its holder with


the end bracket facing to the rear. Turn the jack's end bracket to lock it in place. Replace the cover. Store the tool kit.


20. Store the wheel cover or center cap in the trunk. Make sure they do not get scratched or damaged.


15. Tighten the wheel nuts securely in the same crisscross pattern. Have the wheel nut torque check- ed at the nearest automotive service facility. Tighten the wheel nuts to: 110 N.m(11 kg-m,80 Ib-ft)


16. Remove the wheel cover or


center cap. Place the flat tire face down in the trunk well.


17. Remove the spacer cone from the wing bolt, turn it over, and put it back on the bolt.


18. Secure the flat tire by screwing the wing bolt back into its hole.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If Your Engine Won't Start


Diagnosing why your engine won't start falls into two areas, depending on what you hear when you turn the key to START (III):


You hear nothing, or almost nothing. The engine's starter motor does not operate at all, or operates very slowly.


You can hear the starter motor operating normally, but the engine does not start up and run.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Nothing Happens or the Starter Motor Operates Very Slowly When you turn the ignition switch to START (III), you do not hear the normal noise of the engine trying to start. You may hear a clicking sound or series of clicks, or nothing at all. Check these things:


Check the transmission interlock. If you have a manual trans- mission, the clutch pedal must be pushed all the way to the floor or the starter will not operate. With an automatic transmission, it must be in Park or Neutral.


Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the headlights and check their brightness. If the headlights are very dim or don't light at all, the battery is dis- charged. See Jump Starting on page 191.


Turn the ignition switch to START (III). If the headlights do not dim, check the condition of the fuses. If the fuses are OK, there is probably something wrong with the electrical circuit for the ignition switch or starter motor. You will need a qualified technician to determine the problem. (See Towing on page 202.)


If the headlights dim noticeably or go out when you try to start the engine, either the battery is discharged or the connections are corroded. Check the condi- tion of the battery and terminal connections (see page 153). You can then try jump starting the car from a booster battery (see page 191).


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If Your Engine Won't Start, Jump Starting


The Starter Operates Normally In this case, the starter motor sounds normal when you turn the ignition switch to START (III), but the engine does not run.


Are you using the proper starting procedure? Refer to Starting the Engine on page 109.


Do you have fuel? Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) for a minute and watch the fuel gauge.


There may be an electrical problem, such as no power to the fuel pump. Check all the fuses (see page 199).


Jump Starting If your car's battery has run down, you may be able to start the engine by using a booster battery. Although this seems like a simple procedure, there are several precau- tions you should take. Follow the directions closely.


A battery can explode if you do not follow the correct pro- cedure, seriously injuring any- one nearby.


Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery.


If you find nothing wrong, you will need a qualified technician to find the problem. See Towing on page 202.


You cannot start a Honda with an automatic transmision by pushing or pulling it.


To jump start your car:


1. Open the hood and check the


physical condition of the battery (see page 152). In very cold weather, check the condition of the electrolyte. If it seems slushy or like ice, do not try jump starting until it thaws.


NOTICE


If a battery sits in extreme cold, the electrolyte inside can freeze. Attempting to jump start with a frozen battery can cause it to rupture or explode.


2. Turn off all the electrical acces-


sories: heater, A/C, stereo system, lights, etc. Put the transmission in Neutral or Park and set the parking brake.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Jump Starting


3. Connect one jumper cable to the


positive ( + ) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the positive ( + ) terminal on your Honda's battery.


4. Connect the second jumper cable


to the negative ( — ) terminal on the booster battery. Connect the other end to the grounding strap as shown. Do not connect this jumper cable to any other part of the engine.


5. If the booster battery is in


another car, have an assistant start that car and run it at a fast idle.


BOOSTER BATTERY


6. Start your car. If the starter


motor still operates slowly, check the jumper cable connections to make sure they have good metal- to-metal contact.


7. Once your car is running,


disconnect the negative cable from your car, then from the booster battery. Disconnect the positive cable from your car, then the booster battery.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Your car's temperature gauge should register in the midrange under most conditions. It may register higher if you are driving up a long steep hill on a very hot day. If it illuminates the red marker at the right end of the gauge, you should determine the reason.


Your car can overheat for several reasons, such as lack of coolant or a mechanical problem. The only indication may be the temperature gauge illuminating the red marker. Or you may see steam or spray coming from under the hood. In either case, you should take immediate action.


NOTICE


Driving with the temperature gauge's red marker lit can cause serious damage to your engine.


Steam and spray from an over- heated engine can seriously scald you.


Do not open the hood if steam is coming out.


1. Safely pull to the side of the road.


Put the transmission in neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Turn off the climate control and all other accessories. Turn on the hazard warning indicators.


If Your Engine Overheats


2. If you see steam and/or spray coming from under the hood, turn off the engine.


3. If you do not see steam or spray,


leave the engine running and watch the temperature gauge. If the high heat is due to overload- ing (climbing a long, steep hill on a hot day with the A/C running, for example), the engine should start to cool down almost immedi- ately. If it does, wait until the temperature gauge comes down to the midpoint then continue driving.


4. If the temperature gauge


continues to display the red marker, turn off the engine.


5. Wait until you see no more signs of steam or spray, then open the hood.


CONTINUED


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst If Your Engine Overheats


6. Look for any obvious coolant leaks, such as a split radiator hose. Everything is still extreme- ly hot, so use caution. If you find a leak, it must be repaired before you continue driving (see Towing on page 202).


7. If you don't find an obvious leak,


check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank (see page 139). If the level is below the MIN mark, add coolant to half- way between the MIN and MAX marks.


8. If there was no coolant in the


reserve tank, you may also have to add coolant to the radiator. Let the engine cool down until the temperature gauge registers below the midpoint, or lower, before checking the radiator.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Removing the radiator cap while the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you.


Always let the engine and radiator cool down before removing the radiator cap.


9. Using gloves or a large heavy


cloth, turn the radiator cap counterclockwise, without pushing down, to the first stop. This releases any remaining pressure in the cooling system. After the pressure releases, push down on the cap and turn it until it comes off.


10 . Start the engine and set the


temperature control lever to maximum. Add coolant to the radiator up to the base of the filler neck. If you do not have the proper coolant mixture available, you can add plain water. Remember to have the cooling system drained and refilled with the proper mixture as soon as you can.


11. Put the radiator cap back on tightly. Run the engine and watch the temperature gauge. If it illuminates the red marker again, the engine needs repair. (See Towing on page 202.)


12. If the temperature stays normal,


check the coolant level in the radiator reserve tank. If it has gone down, add coolant to the MAX mark. Put the cap back on tightly.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Low Oil Pressure


4. Start the engine and watch the


oil pressure light. If the light does not go out within ten seconds, turn off the engine. There is a mechanical problem that needs to be repaired before you can continue driving. (See Towing on page 202.)


1. Safely pull off the road and shut


off the engine.


2. Let the car sit for a minute. Open


the hood and check the oil level (see page 135). Although oil level and oil pressure are not directly connected, an engine that is very low on oil can loose pressure during cornering and other driving maneuvers.


3. If necessary, add oil to bring the level back to the full mark on the dipstick (see page 135).


Taking Care of the Unexpected


LOW OIL PRESSURE LIGHT


The low oil pressure light should never come on when the engine is running. If this light comes on with the engine running, take immediate action.


NOTICE


Running the engine with low oil pressure can cause serious mechani- cal damage almost immediately. Turn off the engine as soon as you can safely get the car stopped.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Charging System Indication


Immediately turn off all electrical accessories: radio, heater, A/C, rear defogger, cruise control, etc. Try not to use other electrically- operated controls such as the power windows. Keep the engine running and take extra care not to stall it. Starting the engine will discharge the battery rapidly.


By eliminating as much of the electrical load as possible, you can drive several miles before the battery is too discharged to keep the engine running. Drive to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance.


CHARGING SYSTEM LIGHT


The charging system light should go out after the engine starts. If it comes on brightly with the engine running, the alternator is no longer charging the battery.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Malfunction Indicator Lamp/Check Engine Light


NOTICE


If you keep driving with the malfunction indicator lamp/check engine light on, you can damage your car's emission controls and engine. Those repairs may not be covered by your car's warranties.


If this indicator light comes on, safely pull off the road and turn off the engine. Restart the engine and watch the indicator light. If it stays on, have your car checked by the dealer as soon as possible. Drive moderately until the dealer has inspected the problem. Avoid full- throttle acceleration and driving at high speed.


You should also have the dealer inspect your car if the indicator light comes on frequently, even though it goes off when you follow the above procedure.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP/ CHECK ENGINE LIGHT


If this indicator light comes on while driving, there is a problem with your engine or its emission control systems. Even though you may feel no difference in your car's performance, it can reduce your fuel economy and cause your car to put out excessive emissions. Continued operation may cause serious engine damage.


Main MenuTable of Contentsst Closing the Sunroof


If the electric motor will not close the sunroof, do the following:


1. Check the fuse for the sunroof


motor (see page 200). If the fuse is blown, replace it with one of the same or lower rating.


2. Try closing the sunroof. If the


new fuse blows immediately or the sunroof motor still does not operate, you can close the sunroof manually.


3. Get the tool kit out of the trunk.


Taking Care of the Unexpected


SOCKET


ROUND PLUG


4. Pry off the round plug in the

Loading...
x