1994 Honda Accord Wagon Owners Manual

Maximum Speeds The speeds in these tables are the maximums for the given gears. If you exceed these speeds, the engine speed will enter into the tachometer's red zone. If this occurs, you may feel the engine cut in and out. This is caused by a limiter in the engine's computer controls. The engine will run normally when you reduce the RPM below the red zone.

Automatic Transmission Your Honda's transmission has four forward speeds and is electronically controlled for smoother shifting. It also has a "lock-up" torque converter for better fuel economy. You may feel what seems like another shift when the converter locks.

Driving

Shift Lever Position Indicator

Shift Lever Positions

SHIFT LEVER

Automatic Transmission

This display is on the instrument panel. It shows you the position of the shift lever. It also indicates a possible problem in the transmission if the "D4" indicator light flashes.

The shift lever has seven positions. It must be in Park or Neutral to start the engine. When you are stopped in D4, D3, 2, 1 or R, press firmly on the brake pedal and keep your foot off the accelerator pedal.

Park (P) — This position mechani- cally locks the transmission. Use Park whenever you are turning off or starting the engine. To shift out of Park, you must press on the brake pedal and have your foot off the accelerator pedal. Press the release button on the side of the shift lever to move it.

Driving

Automatic Transmission

You must also press the release button to shift into Park. To avoid transmission damage, come to a complete stop before shifting into Park. The shift lever must be in Park before you can remove the key from the ignition switch.

If you have done all of the above and still cannot move the lever out of Park, see Shift Lock Release on page 108.

Driving

Drive (D3) — This position is similar to D4, except only the first three gears are selected. Use D3
when towing a trailer in hilly terrain or to provide engine braking when going down a steep hill. D3 can also keep the transmission from cycling between third and fourth gears in stop-and-go driving. For faster acceleration when in D3
or D4, you can get the transmission to automatically downshift by pushing the accelerator pedal to the floor. The transmission will shift down one or two gears, depending on your speed.

Reverse (R) — To shift to Reverse from Park, see the explanation under Park. To shift to Reverse from Neutral, come to a complete stop and then shift. Press the release button before shifting into Reverse from Neutral.

Neutral (N) — Use Neutral if you need to restart a stalled engine, or if it is necessary to stop briefly with the engine idling. Shift to Park position if you need to leave the car for any reason. Press on the brake pedal when you are moving the shift lever from Neutral to another gear.

Drive (D4) — Use this position for your normal driving. The transmission automatically selects a suitable gear for your speed and acceleration. You may notice the transmission shifting up at higher speeds when the engine is cold. This helps the engine warm up faster.

First (1) — To shift from Second to First, press the release button on the side of the shift lever. With the lever in this position, the transmission locks in First gear. By upshifting and downshifting through 1, 2, D3, and D4, you can operate this transmission much like a manual transmission without a clutch pedal.

Automatic Transmission

Maximum Speeds The speeds in these tables are the maximums for the given position. If you exceed these speeds, the engine speed will enter into the tachometer's red zone. If this occurs, you will feel the engine cut in and out. This is caused by a limiter in the engine's computer controls. The engine will run normally when you reduce the RPM below the red zone.

Second (2) — To shift to Second, press the release button on the side of the shift lever. This position locks the transmission in second gear. It does not downshift to first gear when you come to a stop. Second gives you more power when climbing, and increased engine braking when going down steep hills. Use second gear when starting out on a slippery surface or in deep snow. It will help reduce wheel spin.

Whenever you move the shift lever to a lower gear, the transmission downshifts only if the engine's redline will not be exceeded in the lower gear.

Driving

RELEASE BUTTON

If you need to use the Shift Lock Release, it could mean your car is developing a problem. Have the car checked by your Honda dealer.

SHIFT LOCK RELEASE SLOT

5. Remove the key from the Shift Lock Release slot. Return the key to the ignition switch, depress the brake pedal, and restart the engine.

Automatic Transmission

Shift Lock Release This allows you to move the shift lever out of Park if the normal method of pushing on the brake pedal and pressing the release button does not work. 1. Set the parking brake.

2. Remove the key from the

ignition switch.

3.

Insert the key in the Shift Lock Release slot next to the shift lever.

4. Push down on the key while you

press the release button and move the shift lever out of Park to Neutral.

Driving

Your Honda is equipped with front disc brakes. The brakes on the rear wheels may be disc or drum, depending on the model. The braking system is power assisted to reduce the effort needed on the brake pedal.

Put your foot on the brake pedal only when you intend to brake. Resting your foot on the pedal keeps the brakes applied lightly, causing them to build up heat. Heat build up can reduce how well your brakes work. It also keeps your brake lights on all the time, confusing drivers behind you.

Constant application of the brakes when going down a long hill builds up heat and reduces their effectiveness. Use the engine to assist the brakes by downshifting to a lower gear and taking your foot off the accelerator pedal.

Check your brakes after driving through deep water. Apply the brakes moderately to see if they feel normal. If not, apply them gently and frequently until they do. Since a longer distance is needed to stop with wet brakes, be extra cautious and alert in your driving.

Brake Wear Indicators The front disc brakes and rear brakes of ABS-equipped cars have audible brake wear indicators. When the brake pads need replacing, you will hear a distinctive metallic "screeching" sound when you apply the brakes. If you do not have the brake pads replaced, they will begin screeching all the time.

The Braking System

Your brakes may sometimes squeal or squeak when you apply them lightly. Do not confuse this with the brake wear indicators. They make a very audible "screeching."

Driving

The Braking System

Brake System Design The hydraulic system that operates the brakes has two separate circuits. Each circuit works diagonally across the car (the left-front brake is connected with the right-rear brake, etc.). If one circuit should develop a problem, you will still have braking at two wheels.

FRONT

Driving

If this happens, you will notice that the brake pedal goes down much farther and you need to press on it much harder. A much longer distance will be needed to stop the car.

Slow the car by downshifting to a lower gear and removing your foot from the accelerator pedal. Pull to the side of the road as soon as it is safe. Because of the longer stopping distance needed, brake system failure is very haz- ardous. It is best to have your car towed, but if you must drive the car in this condition, be extremely cautious. Have your car repaired as soon as possible.

Anti-Lock Brakes ABS-equipped models Your car has an Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS). ABS helps you to maintain steering control. It does this by helping prevent the wheels from locking up and skidding.

The ABS is always "ON." It requires no special effort or driving technique. You will feel a pulsation in the brake pedal when the ABS activates.

Activation varies with the amount of traction your tires have. On dry pavement, you will need to press on the brake pedal very hard before you feel the pedal pulsation that means the ABS has activated. However, you may feel the ABS activate immediately if you are trying to stop on snow or ice. Under all conditions, the ABS is helping to prevent the wheels

from locking so you can retain steering control. You should continue to press on the brake pedal with the same force.

You may feel a slight movement of the brake pedal just after you start the engine. This is the ABS working.

ABS INDICATOR

*U.S. indicator shown.

The ABS is self-checking. If anything goes wrong, the ABS indicator on the instrument panel comes on (see page 32). This means the anti-lock function of the braking system has shut down. The brakes still work like a conventional system, providing normal stopping ability. You should have the dealer inspect your car as soon as possible.

The Braking System

The ABS works by comparing the speed of the wheels. When replacing tires, use the same size originally supplied with the car. Tire size and construction can affect wheel speed and may cause the system to work inconsistently.

A car with ABS may require a longer distance to stop on loose or uneven surfaces than an equivalent car without anti-lock. The ABS cannot make up for road conditions or bad judgment. It is still your responsibility to drive at reasonable speeds for weather and traffic conditions, and to leave a margin of safety.

For a technical description of the ABS hardware, refer to page 200.

Driving

Driving in Bad Weather

Rain, fog, and snow conditions require a different driving technique because of reduced traction and visibility. Keep your car well maintained and exercise greater caution when you need to drive in bad weather. The cruise control should not be used in these conditions.

Driving

Visibility — Being able to see clearly in all directions and being visible to other drivers are important in all weather conditions. This is more difficult in bad weather. To be seen more clearly during daylight hours, turn on your headlights.

Inspect your windshield wipers and washers frequently. Keep the windshield washer reservoir full of the proper fluid. Have the windshield wiper blades replaced if they start to streak the windshield or leave parts unwiped. Use the defrosters and air conditioning to keep the windows from fogging up on the inside (see page 73).

Driving Technique — Always drive slower than you would in dry weather. It takes your car longer to react, even in conditions that may seem just barely damp. Apply smooth, even pressure to all the controls. Abrupt steering wheel movements or sudden, hard application of the brakes can cause loss of control in wet weather. Be extra cautious for the first few miles of driving while you adjust to the change in driving conditions. This is especially true in snow. A person can forget some snow driving techniques during the summer months. Practice is needed to relearn those skills.

Exercise extra caution when driving in rain after a long dry spell. After months of dry weather, the first rains bring oil to the surface of the roadway, making it slippery.

Driving in Bad Weather, Towing a Trailer

Traction - Check your tires frequently for wear and proper pressure. Both are important in preventing "hydroplaning" (loss of traction on a wet surface). In the winter, mount snow tires on all four wheels for the best handling.

Watch road conditions carefully, they can change from moment to moment. Wet leaves can be as slippery as ice. "Clear" roads can have patches of ice. Driving conditions can be very hazardous when the outside temperature is near freezing. The road surface can become covered with areas of water puddles mixed with areas of ice, so your traction can change without warning.

Be careful when downshifting. If traction is low, you can lock up the drive wheels for a moment and cause a skid.

Be very cautious when passing, or being passed by, other vehicles. The spray from large vehicles reduces your visibility, and the wind buffeting can cause you to lose control.

Towing a Trailer Your Honda is designed primarily to carry passengers and their cargo. You can use it to tow a trailer if you carefully observe some general rules.

The total weight of the trailer and everything loaded in it must not exceed 1,000 Ib (450 kg).

The "tongue load" should never exceed 100 Ib (45 kg). This is the amount of weight the trailer puts on the hitch when it is fully loaded. As a rule of thumb, the tongue load should be 10% of the total trailer package.

Driving

Towing a Trailer

For example, if the trailer and its load weigh 500 Ib (225 kg), the tongue load should be 50 Ib (22.5 kg). Adjust the trailer's cargo to change the tongue load. Start by putting approximately 60% of the cargo toward the front and 40% toward the rear. Never load the trailer so the back is heavier than the front. This takes weight off your car's rear axle and reduces traction.

The combined weight of the car, all passengers and their luggage, and tongue load must not exceed the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. The GVWR is printed on the Certification label attached to the driver's doorjamb (see page 196).

Driving

The combined weight of the car, all passengers and their luggage, and tongue load also must not exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating. The GAWR is also shown on the Certification label. It tells you the maximum load for the front and rear axles. It is possible that your towing package does not exceed the GVWR but does exceed the GAWR. Improper trailer loading, and/or too much luggage in the trunk can overload the rear axle. Redistribute the load, and check the axle weights again.

Improperly loading your car and trailer can seriously affect its steering and braking performance, causing a crash in which you can be seriously injured. Check the loading of your car and trailer carefully before starting to drive.

The best way to confirm that your total towing package is within these specifications is to get it weighed. Load the car and trailer as you normally would while towing, and take them to a public scale. Have them check the total weight and the weight at each axle, and then compare them to the specifications.

Mirrors Many states and provinces have laws requiring special outside mirrors when you are towing a trailer. Check the laws in your area. You may want to install mirrors, even if they are not required. Hook up the trailer and see how much it obscures your ability to see behind you with the standard mirrors. If you cannot see directly behind you, or have a large blind spot next to the trailer or the car, you should install mirrors intended for towing.

Trailer Hitches Your Honda dealer, or the Honda Customer Relations Zone Office, can give you advice on the proper hitch for your car. Never use a hitch that mounts only to the rear bumper. The bumper is not designed to handle that type of load. The hitch should bolt to the underbody of the car and distribute the load over a wide area. Always have a trailer hitch installed by a qualified technician.

NOTICE A trailer hitch that is not adequate for the size of the trailer, or a hitch that is improperly installed, can cause damage to the underside of your car.

Towing a Trailer

Connecting the Trailer Most trailers that have a gross weight of 1,000 Ib (450 kg) do not have their own braking system. If you are thinking of getting a trailer that does have brakes, make sure they are electrically operated. There are no provisions in your car to tap into its hydraulic braking system. Any attempt to attach the trailer's brakes to your car's hydraulic system, no matter how successful it may seem, will lower braking effectiveness and create a potential hazard.

Always use a safety chain when towing a trailer. Connect the safety chain securely at both ends. Make sure the chain crosses under the tongue so it will catch the trailer if it becomes unhitched. Leave enough slack in the chain so it can't bind in a sharp turn. Do not let it drag on the ground.

Driving

Towing a Trailer

GROUND (BLACK)

BACK-UP LIGHT (GREEN/BLACK)

LEFT TURN SIGNAL (GREEN/BLUE)

RIGHT TURN SIGNAL (GREEN/YELLOW)

BRAKE LIGHT (GREEN/WHITE)

TAILLIGHT (RED/BLACK)

Since the lighting and wiring can be different for various brands of trailers, have a technician who is familiar with your trailer modify its lighting plug. A converter may be required between the car and trailer for the lights to work correctly.

Your car has a trailer lighting connector under the cargo area floor. To use the connector, lift the floor and attach the hook at the end of the strap to the roof line.

You will find the connector under the left side box. Refer to the drawing above for the wiring color code and purpose of each connector pin.

Driving

Before Starting Out As you are preparing to tow your trailer, do the following:

Measure the trailer's tongue load. You can do this with a bathroom scale. Verify that the hitch and safety chain are securely fastened. Check the condition and air pressure of all tires on the trailer and your car. Low tire pressure can seriously affect the handling. Also, check the spare tire. With everything loaded and the trailer connected, check that the rear of the car is not sagging. If so, redistribute the load in the car. Check that all lights on the car and trailer are working properly.

Towing Safety Your car will not stop as quickly with a trailer in tow. Leave extra distance between your car and other vehicles. Avoid braking or turning suddenly. This could cause the trailer to jackknife or possibly turn over.

Keep in mind that your total vehicle is now much longer. Leave more room when making turns. The trailer tracks a smaller arc than the car and can hit or run over something that the car misses. When passing another vehicle, make sure the trailer is clear before changing lanes.

The car/trailer combination is more affected by crosswinds and buffeting. When being passed by a large vehicle, keep a constant speed and steer straight ahead. If there is too much wind buffeting, slow down to get out of the other vehicle's air turbulence.

Towing a Trailer

Towing a trailer puts an extra load on your car. You should have your car serviced according to the maintenance schedule under severe driving conditions on page 122.

If you have to stop while going uphill, do not hold the car in place by pressing the accelerator. This can cause the automatic transmission to overheat. Use the parking brake or footbrake.

When parking your car and trailer, especially on a hill, be sure to follow all the normal precautions. Turn your front wheels into the curb, set the parking brake firmly, and put the transmission in 1st or Reverse (manual) or Park (automatic). In addition, place wheel chocks at each of the trailer's tires.

This extra load is magnified when you are driving in hilly terrain. Watch the temperature gauge closely when climbing hills. If it gets near the hot area, turn off the air conditioning (if it is on). If this does not reduce the heat, it may be necessary to pull to the side of the road and wait for the engine to cool. If the automatic transmission shifts frequently between 3rd and 4th gears, put it in D3. This will help prevent the transmission from overheating. Help keep the brakes from overheating by shifting to a lower gear when going downhill.

Driving

Towing a Trailer

Backing up with a trailer is difficult and takes practice. Drive slowly, make small movements with the steering wheel, and have someone stand outside to guide you. Grip the steering wheel on the bottom (rather than the usual position near the top). Move your hand to the left to get the trailer to move to the left, and right to move the trailer right.

Driving

Regularly maintaining your Honda is the best way to protect your investment. You will be rewarded with safer, more economical, trouble-free driving. This section lists items that need to be checked regularly and explains how to check them. It also details some simple maintenance tasks you can do yourself. The maintenance schedules for normal and severe driving conditions show you when these things need to be done.

If you are interested in how to perform more complex maintenance on your Honda, you can purchase the Service Manual. See page 215 for information on how to obtain a copy, or see your Honda dealer.

. . . . .. 121
Maintenance Schedule Maintenance Record . . . . . . .. 123
Periodic Checks . . . . . . . . . . .. 125

Fluid Locations . . . . . . . . . . . .. 126
Engine Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 127
Checking Engine Oil . . . .. 127
Adding Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 127
Recommended Oil . . . . . .. 128
Additives . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 129
Changing the Oil

and Filter . . . . . . . . . . .. 129
Cooling System . . . . . . . . . . . .. 132

Checking the Engine

Coolant Level . . . . . . . .. 132
Adding Engine Coolant . .. 132
Replacing Coolant . . . . . .. 133
Windshield Washers . . . . . . . .. 136
Transmission Oil . . . . . . . . . . .. 137
Automatic Transmission . 137
5-Speed Manual

Transmission . . . . . . . .. 138
Brake and Clutch Fluid . . . . .. 138
Brake System . . . . . . . . . .. 139
Anti-Lock Brake System .. 139
Clutch System . . . . . . . . . .. 140
Power Steering . . . . . . . . . . . .. 141
Air Cleaner Element . . . . . . . .. 141

Maintenance

Replacement Specifications

Fuel Filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 143
Spark Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 143
. . . . . . . . . . .. 143
. . . . . . . . . .. 145
Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 145
Windshield Wipers . . . . . . . . .. 148
Air Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . .. 150
Engine Belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 151
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 151
Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 151
Inflation . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 153
Inspection Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . .. 153
Tire Rotation . . . . . . . . . . .. 154
Replacing Tires

and Wheels

. . . . . . .. 154
Wheels and Tires . . . . . . .. 155
Winter Driving . . . . . . . . .. 155
Snow Tires . . . . . . . . . . .. 156
Tire Chains . . . . . . . . . .. 156
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 157
Replacing Bulbs . . . . . . . .. 157
Storing Your Car . . . . . . . . . . .. 164

Lights

Maintenance

Maintenance Schedule

The Required Maintenance Schedule specifies how often you should have your car serviced and what things need attention. It is essential that your car be serviced as scheduled to retain its high level of safety, dependability, and emission control performance.

The services and time or mileage intervals shown in the maintenance schedule assume you will use your car as normal transportation for passengers and their possessions. You should:

Avoid exceeding your car's load limit. This puts excess strain on the engine, brakes, and many other parts of your car. The load limit is shown on the label on the driver's glove box. Operate your car on reasonable roads within the legal speed limit.

Maintenance

Drive your car regularly over a distance of several miles (kilometers). Always use unleaded gasoline with a pump octane number of 86 or higher.

Your authorized Honda dealer knows your car best, and can provide competent, efficient service. However, service at a dealer is not mandatory to keep your warranties in effect. Maintenance may be done by any qualified service facility or person who is skilled in this type of automotive service. Keep all the receipts as proof of completion, and have the person who does the work fill out the maintenance record on page 123. Check your warranty booklet for more information.

We recommend the use of Genuine Honda parts and fluids or their equivalent whenever you have maintenance done. These are the same high-quality items that went into your car when it was new, so you can be sure they fit and perform flawlessly.

U.S. Cars: Maintenance, replacement or re- pair of emission control devices and systems may be done by any automotive repair establishment or individual using parts that are "certified" to EPA standards.

Vehicles sold in California have slightly different maintenance requirements. These are noted in the Required Maintenance Schedule. Other maintenance operations are required by California regulations, and they condition the emissions warranty.

R — Replace I — Inspect After inspection, clean, adjust, repair or replace if necessary.

Maintenance Schedule

: Check oil and coolant level at each fuel stop.

: Under severe driving conditions, service these items more often.

* 1: For cars sold in California, this service is recommended only: other areas, it is required. *2: Thereafter, replace every 2 years or 30,000 mites (48,000 km), whichever comes first. *3: This service is recommended only. *4: For cars with ABS.

Maintenance

Maintenance Schedule

R — Replace I — Inspect After inspection, clean, adjust, repair or replace if necessary.

page 15

Severe Driving Conditions: Items marked services more frequently in certain severe driving conditions.

in the chart indicate you will need some

or an

The conditions are: A. Driving less than 5 miles (8 km) per trip, or, in freezing temperatures,

driving less than 10 miles (16 km) per trip.

B. Driving on rough or muddy roads, or de-iced roads. C. Driving in extremely dusty conditions. D. Extensive idling or driving long periods at slow speeds,

such as a delivery vehicle.

E. Towing a trailer.

Maintenance

Services for Severe Driving Conditions - Clean the air cleaner element every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months

and replace every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 24 months under conditions B or C.

- Replace engine oil and oil filter every 3,750 miles (6,000 km) or 3 months

under conditions A, B, C, D or E.

- Replace transmission oil every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months under

conditions D and E.

- Inspect front brake discs and calipers, and rear brake discs, calipers and pads

every 7,500 miles (12,000 km) or 6 months under conditions B, C, D or E.

- Inspect the power steering system every 7,500 miles (12,000 km) or 6 months

under conditions A, B, or C.

Have your servicing dealer record all Required Maintenance below. Keep receipts for all work done on your car.

Required Maintenance Record

Maintenance

Non-Scheduled Maintenance Record

Record additional maintenance for severe driving conditions or non-scheduled maintenance on this page (see page 122).

Maintenance

You should check the following items at the specified intervals. If you are unsure of how to perform any check, turn to the page given.

Engine oil level — Check every time you fill the fuel tank. See page 92.

Engine coolant level — Check the radiator reserve tank every time you fill the fuel tank. See page 93.

Windshield washer fluid — Check the level in the reservoir monthly. If weather conditions cause you to use the washers frequently, check the reservoir each time you stop for fuel. See page 136.

Automatic transmission — Check the fluid level monthly. See page 137.

Periodic Checks

Brakes, clutch and power steering — Check the fluid level monthly. See pages 138
through 141.

Tires — Check the tire pressure monthly. Examine the tread for wear and foreign objects. See page 153.

Battery — Check its condition and the terminals for corrosion monthly. See pages 145 - 147.

Air conditioning — Check its operation weekly. See page 150.

Lights — Check the operation of the headlights, parking lights, taillights, high-mount brake light, turn signals, brake lights, and license plate lights monthly. See page 157.

Maintenance

Fluid Locations

BRAKE FLUID (Gray cap)

ENGINE OIL FILLER CAP

COOLANT RESERVOIR

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID DIPSTICK (Yellow loop)

Maintenance

CLUTCH FLUID (Gray cap) (5-Speed Manual Transmission only)

ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK (Orange loop)

ANTI-LOCK BRAKE RESERVOIR (Gray cap) (For cars equipped with ABS)

POWER STEERING FLUID (Red cap)

WASHER FLUID (Blue cap)

Checking Engine Oil

Engine Oil

Adding Oil

ENGINE OIL FILL CAP

Check the engine oil a couple of minutes after shutting off the engine. This will allow the oil to drain down to the bottom of the engine. Make sure the car is parked on level ground. 1. Pull out the dipstick (orange

loop), and wipe it with a cloth or paper towel. Insert it all the way back in its tube.

2.

UPPER MARK

LOWER MARK

3. Pull it out again, and look at the oil level at the end of the dipstick. If it is between the upper and lower marks, the level is correct. Add oil if the level is at or below the lower mark.

To add oil, unscrew and remove the engine oil fill cap on top of the valve cover. Pour in the oil, and replace the fill cap. Tighten it securely. Wait a few minutes, and recheck the oil level. Do not fill above the upper mark; you could damage the engine.

Maintenance

label also carries the SG or SH classification. An oil that is only classified SF is not recommended.

The oil container may also dis- play the API Certification seal shown below. Make sure it says "For Gasoline Engines."

API CERTIFICATION SEAL

Engine Oil

Recommended Oil Oil is a major contributor to your engine's performance and longev- ity. Always use a premium-grade detergent oil.

You can determine an oil's SAE viscosity and Service Classifica- tion from the API Service label on the oil container.

A fuel-efficient oil is recommended for your Honda. This is shown on the API Service label by the words "Energy Conserving II." This oil is formulated to help your engine use less fuel.

The API Service label also tells you the service classification of the oil. Always use an oil that says "API Service SG or SH." This service rating may also include other designations, such as CD. These additional classifications are not a problem, as long as the

Maintenance

The SAE numbers tell you the oil's viscosity or weight. Select the oil for your car according to this chart.

Ambient Temperature

An oil with a viscosity of 5W-30 is preferred for improved fuel economy and year-round protec- tion in your Honda. You may use a 10W-30 oil if the temperature in your area never goes below 20 °F (-7 °C).

Additives Your Honda does not need any oil additives. Purchasing additives for the engine or transmission will not increase your car's perfor- mance or longevity. It only increases the cost of operating your car.

Changing the Oil and Filter Always change the oil and filter according to the time and distance (miles/kilometers) recommen- dations on the maintenance schedule. The oil and filter collect contaminants that can damage your engine if they are not removed regularly.

Changing the oil and filter requires special tools and access from underneath the car. The car should be raised on a service station-type hydraulic lift for this service. Unless you have the knowledge and proper

Engine Oil

equipment, you should have this maintenance done by a skilled mechanic.

Repeated, prolonged exposure to used motor oil may cause skin cancer.

Wash your hands thoroughly with strong soap as soon as possible after handling used oil.

Maintenance

Engine Oil

1. Run the engine until it reaches

normal operating tempera- ture, and then shut it off.

The oil, engine components and the exhaust system are hot and can burn you.

Use caution and wear protective clothing while working in the engine compartment.

Maintenance

DRAIN BOLT

WASHER

2. Open the hood, and remove

the oil fill cap. Remove the oil drain bolt and washer from the bottom of the engine. Drain the oil into an appropriate container.

OIL FILTER

3. Remove the oil filter, and let

the remaining oil drain. A special wrench (available from your Honda dealer) is required to remove the filter. Install a new oil filter according to the instructions that come with it.

4.

Engine Oil

The oil and filter should be changed every 6 months or 7,500
miles (12,000 km), whichever comes first. Under severe driving conditions, they should be changed every 3 months or 3,750
miles (6,000 km). See page 122 for a description of severe driving conditions.

5. Put a new washer on the drain

bolt, and then reinstall the drain bolt. Tighten it to 32 Ib-ft (4.4 kg-m, 44 N.m).

6. Refill the engine with the

recommended oil. Engine oil capacity (including filter): U.S.: LX, Canada: EX 4.0 U.S. qt (3.3 Imp. qt., 3.8 ), U.S.: EX 4.5 U.S. qt (3.8 Imp. qt., 4.3 ).

7. Replace the oil fill cap. Start

the engine. The indicator light should go out within five seconds. If it does not, turn off the engine and inspect your work.

8. Let the engine run for several minutes; then, check the drain bolt and washer and the oil filter for leaks.

9. Turn off the engine, and wait

for several minutes; then, check the oil level. If necessary, add oil to bring the level to the upper mark on the dipstick.

NOTICE If you change your own oil, please dispose of the used oil properly. Put it in a sealed container and take it to a recycling center. Do not discard it in a waste bin or dump it on the ground.

Maintenance

Always use Genuine Honda Antifreeze/Coolant. The cooling system contains many aluminum components that can corrode if an improper antifreeze is used. Some antifreeze, even though labeled as safe for aluminum parts, may not provide adequate protection.

Adding Engine Coolant If the reserve tank is completely empty, you should also check the coolant level in the radiator.

Removing the radiator cap while the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray out, seriously scalding you. Always let the engine and radiator cool down before removing the radiator cap.

1. Make sure the engine and

radiator are cool.

Cooling System

Checking the Engine Coolant Level

RESERVE TANK

MAX

MIN

Check the level of the engine coolant by looking at the radiator reserve tank next to the air cleaner element housing. If the level is at or below the MIN line, add coolant to bring it up to the MAX line. This coolant should al- ways be a mixture of 50 percent antifreeze and 50 percent water. Never add straight antifreeze or plain water.

Maintenance

RADIATOR CAP

2. Turn the radiator cap

counterclockwise, without pressing down on it, until it stops. This relieves any pres- sure remaining in the cooling system.

3. Remove the radiator cap by

pushing down and turning counterclockwise.

RESERVE TANK

4. The coolant level should be

up to the base of the filler neck. Add coolant if it is low. 5. Put the radiator cap back on.

Tighten it fully.

6. Pour coolant into the reserve tank. Fill it to halfway between the MAX and MIN marks. Put the cap back on the reserve tank.

Cooling System

Do not add any rust inhibitors or other additives to your car's cooling system. They may not be compatible with the coolant or engine components.

Replacing Engine Coolant The cooling system should be completely drained and refilled with new coolant according to the time and mileage recommenda- tions in the maintenance sched- ule. Only use the recommended antifreeze.

Draining the coolant requires access to the underside of the car. Unless you have the tools and knowledge, you should have this maintenance done by a skilled mechanic.

Maintenance

Cooling System

RADIATOR CAP

RESERVE TANK

DRAIN PLUG

DRAIN BOLT

HOLDER

RESERVE TANK CAP

3. Loosen the drain plug in the bottom of the radiator. The coolant will drain through the splash guard. Remove the drain bolt from the engine block.

4. Remove the reserve tank from its holder by pulling it straight up. Drain the coolant, and then put the tank back in its holder.

5. When the coolant stops

draining, tighten the drain plug in the bottom of the radiator. Apply non-hardening sealant to the drain bolt threads, and reinstall the bolt in the engine block. Tighten the bolt securely.

1. Turn the heater temperature

control lever to maximum heat. Open the hood. Make sure the engine and radiator are cool to the touch.

2. Remove the radiator cap.

Maintenance

6. Mix the recommended

antifreeze with an equal amount of purified or distilled water in a clean container. The cooling system capacity is: With 5-speed manual transmission: 0.85 U.S. gal. (0.70 Imp. gal, 3.2 ) With automatic transmission: 0.82 U.S. gal. (0.68 Imp. gal, 3.1 )

BLEEDER BOLT

7. Pour coolant into the radiator

up to the base of the filler neck. 8. Loosen the bleeder bolt on top of the engine. Tighten it again when coolant comes out in a steady stream with no bubbles. 9. Refill the radiator to the base of

the filler neck. Put the cap on the radiator, and tighten it only to the first stop. Start the engine, and let it run until it warms up (the radiator cooling fan comes on at least twice).

Cooling System

RESERVE TANK

10. Turn off the engine. Check the

level in the radiator, and add coolant if needed. Install the radiator cap, and tighten it fully.

11. Fill the reserve tank to the

MAX mark. Install the reserve tank cap.

Maintenance

Antifreeze can damage your car's paint, while a vinegar/water solution can damage the windshield washer pump.

Use only commercially available windshield washer fluid.

LEVEL GAUGE

NOTICE Do not use engine antifreeze or a vinegar/water solution in the windshield washer reservoir.

Windshield Washers

Check the level in the windshield washer reservoir at least monthly during normal usage. In bad weather, when you use the washers often, check the level every time you stop for gas.

The windshield washer reservoir is located behind the left headlight. Check the reservoir's fluid level by removing the cap and looking at the dipstick.

Fill the reservoir with a good- quality windshield washer fluid. This increases the cleaning capability and prevents freezing in cold weather.

Maintenance

Automatic Transmission

DIPSTICK

Check the fluid level with the engine at normal operating temperature. 1. Park the car on level ground.

Shut off the engine.

2. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) from the transmission and wipe it with a clean cloth.

UPPER MARK LOWER MARK

3.

Insert the dipstick into the transmission.

4. Remove the dipstick and check

the fluid level. It should be between the upper and lower marks.

Transmission Oil

5. If the level is below the lower mark, add fluid into the tube to bring it to the upper mark. Use Honda Premium Formula Automatic Transmission Fluid or an equivalent DEXRON II Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) only.

6.

Insert the dipstick all the way back in the transmission. Make sure that the notch fits in the dipstick guide and the dipstick is all the way down.

The transmission should be drained and refilled with new fluid every 24 months or 30,000 miles (48,000 km), whichever comes first. Shorten this to every 12
months or 24,000 km (15,000
miles) under severe driving conditions (see page 121.)

Maintenance

Transmission Oil, Brake and Clutch Fluid

5-Speed Manual Transmission

FILLER BOLT

Only use an API Service SF or SG grade motor oil with a viscosity of SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40.

The transmission should be drained and refilled with new oil every 24 months or 30,000 miles (48,000 km), whichever comes first. Shorten the service interval to every 12 months or 24,000 km (15,000 miles) under severe driving conditions (see page 122).

CORRECT LEVEL

Check the oil level a couple of minutes after shutting off the engine. Make sure the car is on level ground. Remove the transmission filler bolt. The oil level should be up to the edge of the bolt hole. Feel inside the bolt hole with your finger. If you do not feel any oil, slowly add oil until it starts to run out of the hole. Reinstall the filler bolt, and tighten it securely.

Maintenance

Brake and Clutch Fluid Check the fluid level in the reservoirs monthly. There are up to three reservoirs, depending on which model. They are:

Brake fluid reservoir (all models). Clutch fluid reservoir (5-speed manual transmission only). ABS reservoir for cars with ABS option.

The brake fluid in the brake and anti-lock brake systems should be replaced every 2 years or 30,000
miles (48,000 km), whichever comes first.

Brake System

MAX

If you add brake fluid to bring it up to the MAX mark, use Genuine Honda Brake Fluid or an equivalent from a sealed container that is marked DOT 3 or DOT 4 only. Brake fluid marked DOT 5 is not compatible with your car's braking system.

MIN

The fluid level should be between the MIN and MAX marks on the side of the reservoir. If the level is at or below the MIN mark, it is an indication that your brake system needs attention. Have the brake system inspected for leaks or worn brake pads.

Brake and Clutch Fluid

Anti-Lock Brake System

MAX

MIN

The fluid should be between the MIN and MAX marks on the side of the reservoir. If it is at or below the MIN mark, it may indicate a problem in ABS. Have the dealer inspect the system and add fluid.

Maintenance

Clutch System

MAX

Low fluid level can indicate a leak in the clutch system. Have this system inspected as soon as possible.

MIN

The fluid level should be between the MIN and MAX marks on the side of the reservoir. If it is not, add brake fluid to bring it up to that level. Use the same DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid specified for the brake system.

Brake and Clutch Fluid

If the fluid level is half an inch or more above the MAX mark, it may indicate a problem in the ABS. Have your dealer inspect the system as soon as possible.

If you add brake fluid to bring it up to the MAX mark, use the same DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid from a sealed container specified for the brake system.

Maintenance

Power Steering, Air Cleaner Element

Power Steering

UPPER LEVEL

LOWER LEVEL

You should check the fluid level in the power steering reservoir monthly. Check the level when the engine is cold. Look at the side of the reservoir. The fluid should be between the UPPER LEVEL and LOWER LEVEL. If it is below the LOWER LEVEL, add power steering fluid to the UPPER LEVEL.

NOTICE

Using automatic transmission fluid or another brand of power steering fluid will damage the system. Use only Genuine Honda Power Steering Fluid-V.

A low power steering fluid level can indicate a leak in the system. Check the fluid level frequently and have the system inspected as soon as possible.

NOTICE

Turning the steering wheel to full left or right lock and holding it there can damage the power steering pump.

Air Cleaner Element

The air cleaner element should be replaced every 2 years or 30,000
miles (48,000 km), whichever comes first. Under severe driving conditions, it should be replaced every 12 months or 15,000 miles (24,000 km), whichever comes first.

Cleaning (Severe Conditions) Clean the air cleaner element by blowing compressed air through it in the opposite direction to normal air flow. If you do not have access to compressed air (such as a gas station), ask your Honda dealer to do this service.

Follow the replacement procedure for removal and reinstallation.

Maintenance

Air Cleaner Element

DUCT

BOLTS

AIR CLEANER ELEMENT

The air cleaner element is inside the air cleaner housing on the passenger's side of the engine compartment. To replace it: 1. Remove the air cleaner duct by

pulling it straight out.

2. Loosen the four bolts, and

remove the air cleaner housing cover.

3. Remove the old air cleaner element. Clean the inside of the housing with a damp rag.

4. Place the new air cleaner

element in the housing.

5. Reinstall the housing cover

and the duct, and tighten the four bolts.

Maintenance

Fuel Filter The fuel filter should be replaced every 4 years or 60,000 miles (96,000 km), whichever comes first.

Spark Plugs The original spark plugs in your car need to be replaced every 2
years or 30,000 miles (48,000 km), whichever comes first.

Fuel Filter, Spark Plugs

Replacement

SPARK PLUG CAP

Have a qualified technician change the fuel filter. Since the fuel system is under pressure, gasoline can spray out and create a hazard if all fuel line connections are not handled correctly.

The filter may require replacement sooner if you happen to buy one or more tankfuls of contaminated gasoline. Have the filter tested or replaced if you suspect it has been clogged by contaminants.

1. Clean up any dirt and oil that

have collected around the spark plug caps.

2. Remove the spark plug cap by

pulling it straight out.

3. Remove the spark plug, using

a 16 mm (5/8 inch) spark plug socket.

Maintenance

NOTICE Tighten the spark plugs carefully. A spark plug that is too loose can overheat and damage the engine. Overtightening can cause damage to the threads in the cylinder head.

Install the spark plug cap.

6. 7. Repeat this procedure for the

other three spark plugs.

Spark Plugs

4. Put the new spark plug into

the socket, then thread it into the hole. Screw it in by hand so you do not crossthread it.

5. Torque the spark plug. (If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten the spark plug two-thirds turn after it contacts the cylinder head.) Tightening torque: 13 Ib-ft (18 N.m, 1.8 kg-m).

Maintenance

Spark Plug Specifications

Normal driving conditions

NGK: Nippondenso: KJ16CR-L11

ZFR5F-11

Hot climates, or continuous high speed driving

NGK: Nippondenso: KJ20CR-L11

ZFR6F-11

Spark plug gap

0.04 in. (1.1 mm)

Battery Check the condition of your car's battery monthly. You should check for proper electrolyte level and corrosion on the terminals.

The battery gives off explosive hydrogen gas during normal operation. A spark or open flame can cause the battery to explode with enough force to kill or seriously hurt you.

Keep all sparks, open flames, and smoking materials away from the battery. Wear protective clothing and a face shield, or have a skilled mechanic do the battery maintenance.

Spark Plugs, Battery

The battery contains sulfuric acid (electrolyte), which is highly corrosive and poisonous. Getting electrolyte in your eyes or on your skin can cause serious burns. Wear protective clothing and eye protection when working near the battery. Swallowing electrolyte can cause fatal poisoning if immediate action is not taken.

KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.

Maintenance

TEST INDICATOR WINDOW

Check the battery terminals for corrosion (a white or yellowish powder). To remove it, cover the terminals with a solution of baking soda and water. It will bubble up and turn brown. When this stops, wash it off with plain water. Dry off the battery with a cloth or paper towel. Coat the terminals with grease to help prevent future corrosion.

Check the battery condition by looking at the test indicator window on the battery. The label on the battery explains the test indicator's colors.

Battery

Emergency Procedures Eyes — Flush with water from a cup or other container for at least 15 minutes. (Water under pressure can damage the eye.) Immediately call a physician or 911.

Skin — Remove contaminated clothing. Flush the skin with large quantities of water. Call a physician immediately.

Swallowing — Drink water or milk. Call your local Poison Control Center or a physician immediately.

Maintenance

Clean the battery terminals with a terminal cleaning tool or wire brush. Reconnect and tighten the cables, and then coat the terminals with grease.

If you need to connect the battery to a charger, disconnect both cables to prevent damage to the car's electrical system.

If the terminals are severely corroded, clean them with baking soda and water. Then use a wrench to loosen and remove the cables from the terminals. Always disconnect the negative (—) cable first and reconnect it last.

Battery

If your car's battery is disconnected or goes dead, the audio system will disable itself. The next time you turn on the radio you will see "Code" in the frequency display. Use the Preset buttons to enter the five-digit code (see page 86).

NOTICE Charging the battery with the cables connected can seriously damage your car's electronic controls. Detach the battery cables before connecting the battery to a charger.

Maintenance

Windshield Wipers

Check the condition of the windshield wiper blades at least every six months. Look for signs of cracking in the rubber, or areas that are getting hard. Replace the blades if you find these signs, or they leave streaks and unwiped areas when used.

WIPER ARMS

LOCK TAB

To replace: 1. Raise the wiper arm off the

windshield.

2. Disconnect the blade

assembly from the wiper arm by pushing in the lock tab. Hold it in while you push the blade assembly toward the base of the arm.

Maintenance

BLADE

BLADE

Windshield Wipers

6. Slide the new blade assembly onto the wiper arm. Make sure it locks in place.

7. Lower the wiper arm down

against the windshield.

REINFORCEMENT

3. Remove the blade from its

4. Examine the new wiper

holder by grasping the tabbed end of the blade. Pull firmly until the tabs come out of the holder.

blades. If they have no plastic or metal reinforcement along the back edge, remove the metal reinforcement strips from the old wiper blade and install them in the slots along the edge of the new blade.

5. Slide the new wiper blade into the holder until the tabs lock.

Maintenance

Air Conditioning System

Your car's air conditioning is a sealed system. Any major maintenance, such as recharging, should be done by a qualified technician. There are a couple of things you can do to make sure the air conditioning works efficiently.

AIR CONDITIONING CONDENSER

Periodically check the engine's radiator and air conditioning condenser for leaves, insects, and

Maintenance

If the air conditioning does not get as cold as before, have your dealer check the system. Recharge the system with Refrigerant HFC-134a (R-134a). See Specifications on page 199.

NOTICE

Whenever you have the air conditioning system serviced, make sure the service facility uses a refrigerant recycling system. This system captures the refrigerant for reuse. Releasing refrigerant into the atmosphere can damage the environment.

dirt stuck to the front surface. These block the air flow and reduce cooling efficiency. Use a light spray from a hose or a soft brush to remove them.

NOTICE The condenser and radiator fins bend easily. Only use a low- pressure spray or soft-bristle brush to clean them.

Run the air conditioning at least once a week during the cold weather months. Run it for at least 10 minutes while you are driving at a steady speed with the engine at normal operating temperature. This circulates the lubricating oil contained in the refrigerant.

Engine Belts

POWER STEERING BELT

ALTERNATOR BELT

Check the condition of the two engine belts. Examine the edges of each belt for cracks or fraying. Check the tension of each belt by pushing on it with your thumb midway between the pulleys.

The belts should have the following "play" or deflection.

Alternator belt: (on cars without A/C) 0.41—0.49 in. (10.5—12.5 mm) (on cars with A/C) 0.31—0.41 in. (8.0—10.5 mm) Power steering belt: 0.51—0.63 in. (13.0—16.0 mm)

If you see signs of wear or looseness, have your dealer adjust or replace the belts.

Tires To safely operate your car, your tires must be the proper type and size, in good condition with adequate tread, and correctly inflated. The following pages give more detailed information on how and when to check air pressure, how to inspect your tires for damage, and what to do when your tires need to be replaced.

Engine Belts, Tires

Using tires that are excessively worn or improperly inflated can cause a crash in which you can be seriously hurt or killed. Follow all instructions in this owner's manual regarding tire inflation and maintenance.

Inflation Keeping the tires properly inflated provides the best combination of handling, tread life and riding comfort. Underinflated tires wear unevenly, adversely affect handling and fuel economy, and are more likely to fail from being overheated. Overinflated tires can make your car ride more harshly, are more prone to damage from road hazards, and wear unevenly.

Maintenance

Recommended Tire Pressures for Normal Driving The following chart shows the recommended cold tire pressures for most normal driving conditions and speeds. Tire pressures for high speed driving are shown on page 203.

Tires

We recommend that you visually check your tires every day and use a gauge to measure the air pressure at least once a month. If you think a tire might be low, check it immediately. Remember to check the spare tire at the same time you check all the other tires.

Check the pressure in the tires when they are cold. This means the car has been parked for at least three hours. If you have to drive the car before checking the tire pressure, the tires can still be considered "cold" if you drive less than one mile (1.6 km).

If you check the pressure when the tires are hot (the car has been driven several miles), you will see readings four to six PSI higher than the cold reading. This is normal. Do not let air out to match the specified cold pressure. The tire will be underinflated.

Maintenance

TIRE INFORMATION LABEL

These pressures are also given on the tire information label on the driver's doorjamb.

You should get your own tire pressure gauge and use it whenever you check your tire pressures. This will make it easier for you to tell if a pressure loss is due to a tire problem and not due to a variation between gauges.

Tubeless tires have some ability to self-seal if they are punctured. However, because leakage is often very slow, you should look closely for punctures if a tire starts losing pressure.

Inspection Every time you check inflation, you should also examine the tires for damage, foreign objects, and wear.

You should look for:

Bumps or bulges in the tread or side of the tire. Replace the tire if you find either of these conditions. Cuts, splits, or cracks in the side of the tire. Replace the tire if you can see fabric or cord. Excessive tread wear.

INDICATOR LOCATION MARKS

TREAD WEAR INDICATORS

Your car's tires have wear indicators molded into the tread. When the tread wears down to that point, you will see a 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) wide band running across the tread. This shows there is less than 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread left on the tire. A tire that is this worn gives very little traction on wet roads. You should replace the tire if you can see the tread wear indicator in three or more places around the tire.

Tires

Maintenance In addition to proper inflation, correct wheel alignment helps to decrease tire wear. You should get your car's wheel alignment checked every 12 months or 15,000 miles (24,000 km).

The tires were properly balanced by the factory. They may need to be rebalanced at some time before they are worn out. Have your dealer check the tires if you feel a consistent vibration while driving. A tire should always be rebalanced if it is removed from the wheel for repair.