2011 GMC Sierra Owners Manual

roads. It is also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle in case something happens to one of them. For vehicles with a winch, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck but you will want to know how to use it properly.

The vehicle has more bounce when driving over obstacles.

. More braking distance is needed, especially on an unpaved surface.

{ WARNING

When you are driving off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you are driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It is a good idea to practice in an area that is safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-roading requires some new and different skills. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. Use your arms, hands, feet, and body to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce. Controlling the vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control the vehicle is to control the speed. At higher speeds: . You approach things faster and

have less time to react. There is less time to scan the terrain for obstacles.

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Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. Be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Surface Conditions: Off-roading surfaces can be hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow, or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the vehicle's steering, acceleration, and braking in different ways. Depending on the surface, slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances can occur.

Driving and Operating

9-11

When driving over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, the wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you cannot control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking. Off-roading requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits, or signal lights. Use good judgment about what is safe and what is not.

Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you are not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow, or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Some things to consider:

Is the path ahead clear?

. Will the surface texture change

abruptly up ahead?

. Does the travel take you uphill or

downhill?

. Will you have to stop suddenly

or change direction quickly? When driving over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands.

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9-12

Driving and Operating

Driving on Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what the vehicle can and cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

{ WARNING

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you cannot control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, do not drive the hill.

Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, decide if it is too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you might not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs. Consider this as you approach a hill:

Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places? Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping?

Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you will not have to make turning maneuvers?

. Are there obstructions on the hill

that can block your path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts?

. What is beyond the hill? Is

there a cliff, an embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to find out. Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

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Driving and Operating

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Driving Uphill Once you decide it is safe to drive up the hill: . Use a low gear and get a firm

grip on the steering wheel.

. Get a smooth start up the hill

and try to maintain speed. Not using more power than needed can avoid spinning the wheels or sliding. { WARNING

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

. Ease up on the speed as you

approach the top of the hill.

. Attach a flag to the vehicle to

be more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

. Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to let opposing traffic know you are there.

. Use headlamps even during the

day to make the vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.

{ WARNING

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

If the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot make it up the hill: . Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards and apply the parking brake. If the engine is still running, shift the transmission to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in R (Reverse). If the engine has stopped running, you need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to P (Park) and restart the engine. Then, shift to R (Reverse), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in R (Reverse).

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9-14

Driving and Operating

. While backing down the hill, put

your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o'clock position so you can tell if the wheels are straight and can maneuver as you back down. It is best to back down the hill with the wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

Things not to do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, when going up a hill: . Never attempt to prevent a stall

by shifting into N (Neutral) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. The vehicle can roll backward very quickly and could go out of control.

. Never try to turn around if about

to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall the vehicle, it is steep enough to cause it to roll over. If you cannot make it up the hill, back straight down the hill. If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake, put your transmission in P (Park), and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to Neutral when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

{ WARNING

Shifting the transfer case to Neutral can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). This is because the Neutral position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to P (Park). But do not shift the transfer case to Neutral.

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Driving and Operating

9-15

. Never go downhill with the transmission in N (Neutral), called free-wheeling. The brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

Vehicles are much more likely to stall when going uphill, but if it happens when going downhill: 1. Stop the vehicle by applying the

regular brakes and apply the parking brake.

2. Shift to P (Park) and, while still

braking, restart the engine.

3. Shift back to a low gear, release

the parking brake, and drive straight down. If the engine will not start, get out and get help.

4.

{ WARNING Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

Things not to do when driving down a hill: . When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down might be too steep to drive across. The vehicle could roll over.

Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, consider: . How steep is the downhill? Will I

be able to maintain vehicle control?

. What is the surface like?

Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

. Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders?

. What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, try to keep the vehicle headed straight down. Use a low gear so engine drag can help the brakes so they do not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping the vehicle under control at all times.

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Driving and Operating

Driving Across an Incline An off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. To decide whether to try to drive across the incline, consider the following:

{ WARNING

Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.

. A hill that can be driven straight up or down might be too steep to drive across. When going straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble

end over end. But when driving across an incline, the narrower track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — might not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels which could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

. Surface conditions can be a

problem. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause the tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over.

. Hidden obstacles can make the

steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, the vehicle can tilt even more.

For these reasons, carefully consider whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over. If you feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. The best way to prevent this is to “walk the course” first, so you know what the surface is like before driving it.

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Driving and Operating

9-17

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels do not get good traction. Acceleration is not as quick, turning is more difficult, and braking distances are longer. It is best to use a low gear when in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, keep the vehicle moving so it does not get stuck. When driving on sand, wheel traction changes. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This affects steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And, if the vehicle does get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause it to slide out of control.

{ WARNING

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

Stalling on an Incline { WARNING

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

If the vehicle stalls when crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

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9-18

Driving and Operating

Driving in Water

{ WARNING

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.

Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution.

Find out how deep the water is before driving through it. Do not try it if it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe — you probably will not get through. Deep water can damage the axle and other vehicle parts. If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and the vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. If the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When going through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it might take longer to stop. See Driving on Wet Roads on page 9‑19.

After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage and check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. The vehicle requires more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

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Driving on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep‐standing or flowing water.

{ WARNING

Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle.

(Continued)

WARNING (Continued)

After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause the vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Driving and Operating

9-19

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under the vehicle's tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When the vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.

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Driving and Operating

Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: . Allow extra following distance. . Pass with caution. . Keep windshield wiping

equipment in good shape.

. Keep the windshield washer fluid

reservoir filled.

. Have good tires with proper

tread depth. See Tires on page 10‑57. Turn off cruise control.

Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park the vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: . Keep the vehicle well ventilated. . Keep interior temperature cool. . Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead and to the sides.

. Check the rearview mirror and

vehicle instruments often.

Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: . Keep the vehicle serviced and in

good shape.

. Check all fluid levels and brakes,

tires, cooling system, and transmission.

. Shift to a lower gear when going

down steep or long hills. { WARNING

If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.

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{ WARNING

Winter Driving

Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 0°C (32°F) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction.

Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.

. Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).

. Pay attention to special road

signs (falling rocks area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.

Driving and Operating

9-21

Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 9‑68 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control on slippery surfaces.

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9-22

Driving and Operating

Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Assistance Program (U.S. and Canada) on page 13‑8 or Roadside Assistance Program (Mexico) on page 13‑10. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:

Turn on the hazard warning flashers. Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.

{ WARNING

Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains Carbon Monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death.

WARNING (Continued)

WARNING (Continued)

If the vehicle is stuck in the snow: . Clear away snow from around

the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe.

. Check again from time to

time to be sure snow does not collect there.

. Open a window about 5 cm

(2 in) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air.

. Fully open the air outlets

on or under the instrument panel.

. Adjust the climate control

system to a setting that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.

For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 9‑44. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (Carbon Monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust.

Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful.

(Continued)

(Continued)

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Driving and Operating

9-23

To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat. Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel.

If the Vehicle is Stuck Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See “Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out” later in this section. If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle's traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.

{ WARNING

If the vehicle's tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 55 km/h (35 mph).

For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 10‑83.

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Driving and Operating

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive vehicles, shift into Four‐Wheel High. For vehicles with StabiliTrak®, turn the traction control part of the system off. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the

vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. Recovery hooks can be used, if the vehicle has them. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing the Vehicle on page 10‑103. Recovery Hooks

{ WARNING

These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. For vehicles with recovery hooks at the front of the vehicle, you can use them if you are stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

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Vehicle Load Limits It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.

{ WARNING Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). This can cause systems to break and change the way the vehicle handles. This could cause loss of control and a crash. Overloading can also shorten the life of the vehicle.

Driving and Operating

9-25

Tire and Loading Information Label

Label Example

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker).

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Driving and Operating

The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 10‑57 and Tire Pressure on page 10‑66.

There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axles. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section.

Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement

“The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle's placard.

2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.

3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.

4. The resulting figure equals

the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400−750
(5x150) = 650 lbs).

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Driving and Operating

9-27

5. Determine the combined

6.

weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. SeeTrailer Towing on page 9‑95 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.

Example 1

Example 2

A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for

Example 1 = (453 kg) (1,000 lbs)

A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for

Example 2 = 453 kg (1,000 lbs)

B. Subtract Occupant Weight @

B. Subtract Occupant Weight @

68 kg (150 lbs) × 2 = 136 kg (300 lbs)

68 kg (150 lbs) × 5 = 340 kg (750 lbs)

C. Available Occupant and Cargo

C. Available Cargo

Weight = 317 kg (700 lbs)

Weight = 113 kg (250 lbs)

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Driving and Operating

Refer to your vehicle's tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle's capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle's capacity weight.

Certification/Tire Label

A vehicle specific Certification/ Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver door.

The label shows the size of your vehicle's original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline.

Example 3

A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for

Example 3 = 453 kg (1,000 lbs)

B. Subtract Occupant Weight @

91 kg (200 lbs) × 5 = 453 kg (1,000 lbs)

C. Available Cargo

Weight = 0 kg (0 lbs)

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Driving and Operating

9-29

Notice : Overloading the vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Do not overload the vehicle. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.

{ WARNING

Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). This can cause systems to break and change the way the vehicle handles. This could cause loss of control and a crash. Overloading can also shorten the life of the vehicle.

Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. The Certification/Tire label also contains important information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. See “What is front axle reserve capacity, and how do I calculate it?” under Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment on page 9‑125.

{ WARNING

In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things carried in the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.

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Driving and Operating

If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

{ WARNING

Things you put inside the vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

. Put things in the cargo

area of the vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

. Never stack heavier

things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

(Continued)

WARNING (Continued)

. Do not leave an

unsecured child restraint in the vehicle.

. When you carry something

inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

. Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to.

There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving“ under Off-Road Driving on page 9‑7.

Two-Tiered Loading Depending on the model of your pick‐up, an upper load platform can be created by positioning three or four 5 cm (2 inches) by 15 cm (6 inches) wooden planks across the width of the pickup box. The planks must be inserted in the pickup box depressions. When using this upper load platform, be sure the load is securely tied down to prevent it from shifting. The load's center of gravity should be positioned in a zone over the rear axle. The zone is located in the area between the front of each wheel well and the rear of each wheel well. The center of gravity height must not extend above the top of the pickup box flareboard.

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Any load that extends beyond the vehicle's taillamp area must be properly marked according to local laws and regulations. Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle.

Add-On Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment. Notice : Overloading the vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Do not overload the vehicle.

Remember not to exceed the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the front or rear axle.

* Equipment Ladder Rack and Cargo Cross Toolbox and Cargo Side Boxes and Cargo

Maximum Weight 340 kg (750 lbs) 181 kg (400 lbs) 113 kg per side (250 lbs per side)

* The combined weight for all rail‐mounted equipment should not exceed 454 kg (1,000 lbs).

Driving and Operating

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Loading Points

A. Primary Load Points B. Secondary Load Areas C. Cargo Management Option

Holes

Structural members (A) and (B) are included in the pick-up box design. Additional accessories should use these load points. Depending on the accessory design, use a spacer under the accessory at the load points to remove gap.

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9-32

Driving and Operating

The holes for the Cargo Management System (C) are not intended for attachment of aftermarket equipment. See www.gmupfitter.com for additional pick-up box load bearing structural information.

Truck-Camper Loading Information A vehicle-specific Truck‐Camper Loading Information label is attached to the inside of the vehicle's glove box. This label indicates if a slide-in camper can be carried, how much of a load the vehicle can carry, and how to correctly spread out the load. It will help to match the right slide in camper to the vehicle. Your dealer can help make a good vehicle-camper match and help determine the Cargo Weight Rating (CWR).

When installing and loading a slide-in camper, check the manufacturer's instructions. When carrying a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of the vehicle is the weight of the camper, plus the following: . Everything added to the

camper after it left the factory

. Everything in the camper . All the people inside The CWR is the maximum weight of the load the vehicle can carry. It does not include the weight of the people inside. But, use about 68 kg (150 lbs) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than the vehicle's CWR.

Refer to the Truck-Camper Loading Information label in the glove box for dimensions A and B as shown in the following illustration.

Use the rear edge of the load floor for measurement purposes. The recommended location for the cargo center of gravity is at point C for the CWR. It is the point where the mass of a body is concentrated and, if suspended at that point, would balance the front and rear.

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Here is an example of proper truck and camper match:

A. Camper Center of Gravity B. Recommended Center of

Gravity Location Zone

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When the truck is used to carry a slide‐in camper, the total cargo load of the truck consists of the manufacturer's camper weight figure, the weight of installed additional camper equipment not included in the manufacturer's camper weight figure, the weight of camper cargo, and the weight of passengers in the camper. The total cargo load should not exceed the truck's cargo weight rating, and the camper's center of gravity (A) should fall within the truck's recommended center of gravity zone (B) when installed.

Any accessories or other equipment that are added to the vehicle must be weighed. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone of the vehicle. If the slide-in camper and its load weighs less than the CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger. Secure loose items to prevent weight shifts that could affect the balance of the vehicle.

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9-34

Driving and Operating

Starting and Operating

New Vehicle Break-In Notice: The vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines: . Keep the vehicle speed at

88 km/h (55 mph) or less for the first 805 km (500 miles).

. Do not drive at any one constant speed, fast or slow, for the first 805 km (500 miles). Do not make full-throttle starts. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle.

. Avoid making hard stops for

the first 322 km (200 miles) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not yet broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings.

. Do not tow a trailer during

break-in. See Trailer Towing on page 9‑95 for the trailer towing capabilities of the vehicle and more information.

Following break‐in, engine speed and load can be gradually increased.

When the truck‐camper is loaded, drive to a scale and weigh on the front and on the rear wheels separately to determine axle loads. Individual axle loads should not exceed either of the gross axle weight ratings (GAWR). The total axle loads should not exceed your vehicle's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). These ratings are given on the vehicle certification label attached to the rear edge of the driver door. See “Certification/Tire Label” under Vehicle Load Limits on page 9‑25. If weight ratings are exceeded, move or remove items to bring all weights below the ratings. See your dealer for more information on curb weights, cargo weights, Cargo Weight Rating and the correct center of gravity zone.

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Adjustable Throttle and Brake Pedal On vehicles with this feature, you can change the position of the throttle and brake pedals. No adjustment to the pedals can be made when the vehicle is in R (Reverse) or while using cruise control.

Press the bottom of the control to move the pedals closer. Press the top of the control to move the pedals away. Before you start driving, fully press the brake pedal to confirm the adjustment is right for you. While driving, make only small adjustments. The vehicle may have a memory function which lets pedal settings be saved and recalled. See Power Seat Adjustment on page 3‑4 for more information.

The control used to adjust the pedals is located on the instrument panel below the climate control system.

Driving and Operating

9-35

Ignition Positions

The ignition switch has four different positions. To shift out of P (Park), the ignition must be in ON/RUN or ACC/ACCESSORY and the regular brake pedal must be applied.

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9-36

Driving and Operating

A (STOPPING THE ENGINE/ LOCK/OFF): When the vehicle is stopped, turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF to turn the engine off. Retained Accessory Power (RAP) will remain active. See Retained Accessory Power (RAP) on page 9‑40. This position locks the ignition. It also locks the transmission on automatic transmission vehicles. The key can be removed in LOCK/OFF. Do not turn the engine off when the vehicle is moving. This will cause a loss of power assist in the brake and steering systems and disable the airbags.

In an emergency: 1. Brake using a firm and steady

pressure. Do not pump the brakes repeatedly. This may deplete power assist, requiring increased brake pedal force.

2. Shift the vehicle to neutral. This can be done while the vehicle is moving. After shifting to neutral, firmly apply the brakes and steer the vehicle to a safe location.

3. Come to a complete stop, shift to P (Park), and turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, the shift lever must be in P (Park) to turn the ignition switch to the LOCK/OFF position.

4. Set the parking brake. See

Parking Brake on page 9‑69.

The steering can bind with the wheels turned off center. If this happens, move the steering wheel from right to left while turning the key to ACC/ACCESSORY. If this doesn't work, then the vehicle needs service. Notice: Using a tool to force the key to turn in the ignition could cause damage to the switch or break the key. Use the correct key, make sure it is all the way in, and turn it only with your hand. If the key cannot be turned by hand, see your dealer. B (ACC/ACCESSORY): This position lets things like the radio and the windshield wipers operate while the engine is off. Use this position if the vehicle must be pushed or towed.

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Driving and Operating

9-37

C (ON/RUN): This position can be used to operate the electrical accessories and to display some instrument panel cluster warning and indicator lights. The switch stays in this position when the engine is running. The transmission is also unlocked in this position on automatic transmission vehicles. If you leave the key in the ACC/ACCESSORY or ON/RUN position with the engine off, the battery could be drained. You may not be able to start the vehicle if the battery is allowed to drain for an extended period of time. D (START): This is the position that starts the engine. When the engine starts, release the key. The ignition switch returns to ON/RUN for driving. A warning tone will sound when the driver door is opened and the ignition is in ACC/ACCESSORY or LOCK/OFF, and the key is in the ignition.

Starting the Engine If the vehicle has a Duramax diesel engine, see the Duramax diesel supplement for more information. If the vehicle is a hybrid, see the hybrid supplement for more information. Notice: Do not try to shift to P (Park) if the vehicle is moving. If you do, you could damage the transmission. Shift to P (Park) only when the vehicle is stopped. Move the shift lever to P (Park) or N (Neutral). The engine will not start in any other position. To restart the engine when the vehicle is already moving, use N (Neutral) only. Notice: The engine is designed to work with the electronics in the vehicle. If you add electrical parts or accessories, you could change the way the engine operates.

Before adding electrical equipment, check with your dealer. If you do not, the engine might not perform properly. Any resulting damage would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Starting Procedure 1. With your foot off the accelerator

pedal, turn the ignition key to START. When the engine starts, let go of the key. The idle speed will go down as your engine gets warm. Do not race the engine immediately after starting it. Operate the engine and transmission gently to allow the oil to warm up and lubricate all moving parts.

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Driving and Operating

The vehicle has a Computer-Controlled Cranking System. This feature assists in starting the engine and protects components. If the ignition key is turned to the START position, and then released when the engine begins cranking, the engine will continue cranking for a few seconds or until the vehicle starts. If the engine does not start and the key is held in START for many seconds, cranking will be stopped after 15 seconds to prevent cranking motor damage. To prevent gear damage, this system also prevents cranking if the engine is already running. Engine cranking can be stopped by turning the ignition switch to the ACC/ACCESSORY or LOCK/OFF position.

When the Low Fuel warning lamp is on and the FUEL LEVEL LOW message is displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC), the Computer‐Controlled Cranking System is disabled to prevent possible vehicle component damage. When this happens, hold the ignition switch in the START position to continue engine cranking.

Notice: Cranking the engine for long periods of time, by returning the key to the START position immediately after cranking has ended, can overheat and damage the cranking motor, and drain the battery. Wait at least 15 seconds between each try, to let the cranking motor cool down.

2.

If the engine does not start after 5‐10 seconds, especially in very cold weather (below −18°C or 0°F), it could be flooded with too much gasoline. Try pushing the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and holding it there as you hold the key in START for up to 15 seconds. Wait at least 15 seconds between each try, to allow the cranking motor to cool down. When the engine starts, let go of the key and accelerator. If the vehicle starts briefly but then stops again, do the same thing. This clears the extra gasoline from the engine. Do not race the engine immediately after starting it. Operate the engine and transmission gently until the oil warms up and lubricates all moving parts.

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Fast Idle System If the vehicle has this feature it is available only with cruise control. The manual fast idle switch is operated using the cruise control buttons located on the left hand side of the steering wheel. This system can be used to increase engine idle speed whenever the following conditions are met:

The park brake is set. The brake pedal is not pressed. The vehicle must not be moving and the accelerator must not be pressed.

To control the fast idle:

To enable the Fast Idle System, press and release the Cruise Control On/Off button and ensure that the switch LED is lit.

. Press and release the Cruise

Control Set switch. Engine speed will be held at approximately 1200 RPM.

When the fast idle is active the Driver Information Center (DIC) will display “FAST IDLE ON.” One of the following actions will turn off the fast idle: . Pressing the brake. . Selecting the Cruise Control

Cancel button.

Driving and Operating

9-39

. Releasing the Parking Brake.

The transmission shifter is moved out of P (Park) or N (Neutral).

. Selecting the Cruise Control

On/Off button when it was previously on.

. Pressing the Cruise Control Set

switch a second time.

. Pressing the accelerator greater

than a quarter of the down. Turning the ignition switch to the LOCK/OFF position.

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9-40

Driving and Operating

Retained Accessory Power (RAP) The following vehicle accessories can be used for up to 10 minutes after the engine is turned off: . Audio System . Power Windows . OnStar System (if equipped) . Sunroof (if equipped) These features work when the key is in ON/RUN or ACC/ACCESSORY. Once the key is turned from ON/RUN to LOCK/OFF, the windows and sunroof continue to work up to 10 minutes until any door is opened. The radio continues to work for up to 10 minutes or until the driver door is opened.

Engine Coolant Heater The engine heater can provide easier starting and better fuel economy during engine warm-up in cold weather conditions at or below −18°C (0°F). Vehicles with an engine heater should be plugged in at least four hours before starting. An internal thermostat in the plug-end of the cord may exist which will prevent engine coolant heater operation at temperatures above −18°C (0°F). If the vehicle has a diesel engine, see the Duramax Diesel supplement for more information.

To Use the Engine Coolant Heater 1. Turn off the engine. 2. Open the hood and unwrap the electrical cord. The cord is secured to the Engine Compartment Fuse Block with a clip. Carefully remove the wire tie which bundles the electrical plug. Do not cut the electrical cord.

3. Plug the cord into a normal, grounded 110-volt AC outlet.

{ WARNING Plugging the cord into an ungrounded outlet could cause an electrical shock. Also, the wrong kind of extension cord could overheat and cause a fire.

(Continued)

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WARNING (Continued)

You could be seriously injured. Plug the cord into a properly grounded three-prong 110-volt AC outlet. If the cord will not reach, use a heavy-duty three-prong extension cord rated for at least 15 amps.

4. Before starting the engine, be

sure to unplug and store the cord as it was before to keep it away from moving engine parts. If you do not, it could be damaged.

The length of time the heater should remain plugged in depends on several factors. Ask a dealer in the area where you will be parking the vehicle for the best advice on this.

Shifting Into Park { WARNING

It can be dangerous to get out of the vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in P (Park) with the parking brake firmly set. The vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure the vehicle will not move, even when you are on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. With four-wheel drive, if the transfer case is in N (Neutral), the vehicle will be free to roll, even if the shift lever is in P (Park). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in N (Neutral). If you are pulling a trailer, see Driving Characteristics and Towing Tips on page 9‑91.

Driving and Operating

9-41

1. Hold the brake pedal down, then

set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on page 9‑69
for more information.

2. Move the shift lever into the P (Park) position by pulling the shift lever toward you and moving it up as far as it will go. 3. Be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in N (Neutral).

4. Turn the ignition key to

LOCK/OFF.

5. Remove the key and take it with you. If you can leave the vehicle with the ignition key in your hand, the vehicle is in P (Park).

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9-42

Driving and Operating

Leaving the Vehicle With the Engine Running

{ WARNING

It can be dangerous to leave the vehicle with the engine running. The vehicle could move suddenly if the shift lever is not fully in P (Park) with the parking brake firmly set. If you have four-wheel drive and the transfer case is in N (Neutral), the vehicle will be free to roll, even if the shift lever is in P (Park). So be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in N (Neutral).

(Continued)

WARNING (Continued)

And, if you leave the vehicle with the engine running, it could overheat and even catch fire. You or others could be injured. Do not leave the vehicle with the engine running unless you have to.

If you have to leave the vehicle with the engine running, be sure your vehicle is in P (Park) and the parking brake is firmly set before you leave it. After you move the shift lever into P (Park), hold the regular brake pedal down. Then, see if you can move the shift lever away from P (Park) without first pulling it toward you. If you can, it means that the shift lever was not fully locked into P (Park).

Torque Lock If you are parking on a hill and you do not shift your transmission into P (Park) properly, the weight of the vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl in the transmission. You may find it difficult to pull the shift lever out of P (Park). This is called torque lock. To prevent torque lock, set the parking brake and then shift into P (Park) properly before you leave the driver seat. To find out how, Shifting Into Park on page 9‑41. When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of P (Park) before you release the parking brake. If torque lock does occur, you may need to have another vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the pressure from the parking pawl in the transmission, then you will be able to pull the shift lever out of P (Park).

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Driving and Operating

9-43

Parking Over Things That Burn

{ WARNING

Things that can burn could touch hot exhaust parts under the vehicle and ignite. Do not park over papers, leaves, dry grass, or other things that can burn.

Shifting Out of Park This vehicle is equipped with an electronic shift lock release system. The shift lock release is designed to: . Prevent ignition key removal

unless the shift lever is in P (Park) with the shift lever button fully released.

. Prevent movement of the shift

lever out of P (Park), unless the ignition is in ON/RUN or ACC/ACCESSORY and the regular brake pedal is applied.

The shift lock release is always functional except in the case of an uncharged or low voltage (less than 9 volt) battery. If the vehicle has an uncharged battery or a battery with low voltage, try charging or jump starting the battery. See Jump Starting on page 10‑98 for more information.

To shift out of P (Park) use the following: 1. Apply the brake pedal. 2. Move the shift lever to the

desired position.

If you still are unable to shift out of P (Park): 1. Ease the pressure on the shift

lever.

2. While holding down the brake pedal, press the shift lever all the way into P (Park).

3. Move the shift lever to the

desired position.

If you are still having a problem shifting, then have the vehicle serviced soon.

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Driving and Operating

Active Fuel Management® Vehicles with V8 engines may have Active Fuel Management™. This system allows the engine to operate on either all or half of its cylinders, depending on the driving conditions. When less power is required, such as cruising at a constant vehicle speed, the system will operate in the half cylinder mode, allowing the vehicle to achieve better fuel economy. When greater power demands are required, such as accelerating from a stop, passing, or merging onto a freeway, the system will maintain full-cylinder operation. If the vehicle has an Active Fuel Management™ indicator, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 5‑33 for more information on using this display.

Engine Exhaust { WARNING

Engine exhaust contains Carbon Monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. Exposure to CO can cause unconsciousness and even death. Exhaust may enter the vehicle if:

. The vehicle idles in areas

with poor ventilation (parking garages, tunnels, deep snow that may block underbody airflow or tail pipes).

. The exhaust smells or

sounds strange or different.

. The exhaust system leaks

due to corrosion or damage. . The vehicle exhaust system has been modified, damaged or improperly repaired.

(Continued)

WARNING (Continued)

. There are holes or openings

in the vehicle body from damage or after-market modifications that are not completely sealed.