2002 GMC Sierra Owners Manual

4-59

Refer to the Truck-Camper Loading Information label in glove box for dimensions A and B as shown in the following illustration.

Use the rear edge of the load floor for measurement purposes. The recommended location for the cargo center of gravity is at point C for the CWR. It is the point where the mass of a body is concentrated and, if suspended at that point, would balance the front and rear.

Truck-Camper Loading Information This label is inside your glove box. It will tell you if your vehicle can carry a slide-in camper, how much of a load your vehicle can carry, and how to correctly spread out your load. Also, it will help you match the right slide-in camper to your vehicle. When you carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of your vehicle is the weight of the camper, plus D everything else added to the camper after it left

the factory,

D everything in the camper and D all the people inside. The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But, you can figure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.

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Here is an example of proper truck and camper match:

A. Camper Center of Gravity B. Recommended Center of Gravity Location Zone The camper’s center of gravity should fall within the center of gravity zone for your vehicle’s cargo load. You must weigh any accessories or other equipment that you add to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone of your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. If your slide-in camper and its load weighs less than the CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger.

Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match. He’ll also help you determine your CWR. After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and weigh the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on your axles. The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more than either of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads should not be more than the GVWR. Open your driver’s door and look at the Certification/Tire label to find out your GAWR and GVWR. If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take out some things until all the weight falls below the ratings. Of course, you should always tie down any loose items when you load your vehicle or camper. When you install and load your slide-in camper, check the manufacturer’s instructions. If you want more information on curb weights, cargo weights, Cargo Weight Rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help you. Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information, Truck-Camper Loading.”

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Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the equalizer bars in place. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see “Trailer Towing” in the Index.

Camper Wiring Harness (If Equipped) If your vehicle is equipped with a camper wiring harness, see “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index for further information. Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. Before you do so, first contact GM Customer Assistance for information on such conversions specific to this vehicle. Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which may affect vehicle safety. The components necessary to adapt a pickup to permit its safe use with a specialized body should be installed by a body builder in accordance with the information available from GM Customer Assistance. See “Customer Assistance” in the Index.

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Towing a Trailer

CAUTION:

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

NOTICE:

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Additional rear axle maintenance is required for a vehicle used to tow a trailer. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.

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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: D There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

D Consider using a sway control if your trailer will

weigh less than 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) for light duty vehicles, or less than 7,500 lbs. (3 405 kg) for heavy duty vehicles. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you

tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

D If you have an automatic transmission, you can

tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use the highest gear. See “Tow/Haul Mode” in the Index.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: D the weight of the trailer, D the weight of the trailer tongue D and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.

4-64

Tow/Haul Mode (If Equipped) Tow/haul is a feature on automatic transmission equipped vehicles that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to: D Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

D Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a

heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded.

D Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

Automatic transmission equipped vehicles are provided with a button at the end of the shift lever which when pressed enables tow/haul. When the button is pressed, a light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that tow/haul has been selected. Tow/haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off tow/haul every time it is started.

Tow/haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” later in the section. Tow/haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

through rolling terrain.

D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

in stop and go traffic.

D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.

Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of tow/haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

4-65

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. Use one of the following charts to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.

Above the 5,000 lbs. (2 268 kg) trailer rating, the handling/trailering suspension is required on C-1500 models and the handling/trailering or off-road suspension is required on K-1500 models. The engine oil cooler is required on C/K-2500 models with the VORTEC 6000 engine. Refer to the Trailering Guide for oil cooler recommendations. The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.

4-66

C-1500 Regular Cab Short Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.) Axle Ratio 4300 V6 (Auto)

4300 V6 (Manual)

4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

3.08
3.42
3.08
3.42
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73

Max. Trailer Wt. 4,600 lbs. (2 088 kg) 5,100 lbs. (2 315 kg) 3,600 lbs. (1 634 kg) 4,100 lbs. (1 861 kg) 6,500 lbs. (2 951 kg) 7,500 lbs. (3 405 kg) 4,500 lbs. (2 043 kg) 5,500 lbs. (2 497 kg) 7,500 lbs. (3 405 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 859 kg)

GCWR 9,000 lbs. (4 086 kg) 9,500 lbs. (4 313 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 859 kg) 11,000 lbs. (4 994 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 086 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,500 lb (680 kg) maximum.

4-67

C-1500 Extended Cab Short Box (2WD)* Axle Ratio Engine (Trans.) 4300 V6 (Auto)

4300 V6 (Manual) 4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

3.42
3.73
3.42
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73

Max. Trailer Wt. 4,700 lbs. (2 133 kg) 5,200 lbs. (2 360 kg) 3,700 lbs. (1 679 kg) 6,100 lbs. (2 858 kg) 7,100 lbs. (3 223 kg) 4,200 lbs. (1 906 kg) 5,200 lbs. (2 360 kg) 7,100 lbs. (3 223 kg) 8,100 lbs. (3 677 kg)

GCWR 9,500 lbs. (4 313 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 859 kg) 11,000 lbs. (4 994 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 086 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,500 lb (680 kg) maximum.

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C-1500 Crew Cab Short Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.) 6000 V8

Axle Ratio

3.73
4.10

C-1500 Regular Cab Long Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.) Axle Ratio 4300 V6 (Auto)

4300 V6 (Manual)

4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

Max. Trailer Wt. 8,300 lbs. (3 765 kg) 10,300 lbs. (4 672 kg)

GCWR 14,000 lbs. (6 356 kg) 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg)

Max. Trailer Wt. 4,500 lbs. (2 043 kg) 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) 3,500 lbs. (1 589 kg) 4,000 lbs. (1 816 kg) 6,400 lbs. (2 905 kg) 7,400 lbs. (3 359 kg) 4,400 lbs. (1 997 kg) 5,400 lbs. (2 451 kg) 7,400 lbs. (3 359 kg) 8,400 lbs. (3 813 kg)

GCWR 9,000 lbs. (4 086 kg) 9,500 lbs. (4 313 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 859 kg) 11,000 lbs. (4 994 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 086 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg)

3.08
3.42
3.08
3.42
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,500 lb (680 kg) maximum.

4-69

C-1500 Extended Cab Long Box (2WD)* Axle Ratio Engine (Trans.) 4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73

Max. Trailer Wt. 6,000 lbs. (2 724 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 178 kg) 4,000 lbs. (1 816 kg) 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 178 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg)

GCWR 11,000 lbs. (4 994 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 086 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,500 lb (680 kg) maximum.

4-70

K-1500 Regular Cab Short Box (4WD)* Axle Ratio Engine (Trans.) 4300 V6 (Auto)

4300 V6 (Manual)

4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10

Max. Trailer Wt. 4,800 lbs. (2 179 kg) 5,300 lbs. (2 406 kg) 3,800 lbs. (1 725 kg) 4,300 lbs. (1 952 kg) 7,200 lbs. (3 268 kg) 8,200 lbs. (3 722 kg) 5,200 lbs. (2 360 kg) 6,200 lbs. (2 814 kg) 8,200 lbs. (3 722 kg) 9,200 lbs. (4 176 kg)

GCWR 9,500 lbs. (4 313 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 859 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 086 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 11,000 lbs. (4 994 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg) 14,000 lbs. (6 356 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,500 lb (680 kg) maximum.

4-71

K-1500 Extended Cab Short Box (4WD)* Axle Ratio Engine (Trans.) 4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

K-1500 Crew Cab Short Box (4WD)* Engine (Trans.) 6000 V8

Axle Ratio

3.73
4.10

3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10

Max. Trailer Wt. 6,800 lbs. (3 087 kg) 7,800 lbs. (3 541 kg) 4,800 lbs. (2 268 kg) 5,800 lbs. (2 994 kg) 7,800 lbs. (3 629 kg) 8,800 lbs. (4 082 kg)

GCWR 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 11,000 lbs. (4 994 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg) 14,000 lbs. (6 356 kg)

Max. Trailer Wt. 8,000 lbs. (3 632 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg)

GCWR 14,000 lbs. (6 356 kg) 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to15 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,500 lb (680 kg) maximum.

4-72

K-1500 Regular Cab Long Box (4WD)* Axle Ratio Engine (Trans.) 4300 V6 (Auto)

4300 V6 (Manual)

4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10

Max. Trailer Wt. 4,700 lbs. (2 133 kg) 5,200 lbs. (2 360 kg) 3,700 lbs. (1 679 kg) 4,200 lbs. (1 906 kg) 7,100 lbs. (3 223 kg) 8,100 lbs. (3 677 kg) 5,100 lbs. (2 315 kg) 6,100 lbs. (2 769 kg) 8,100 lbs. (3 677 kg) 9,100 lbs. (4 134 kg)

GCWR 9,500 lbs. (4 313 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 859 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 086 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 11,000 lbs. (4 994 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg) 14,000 lbs. (6 356 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,500 lb (680 kg) maximum.

4-73

K-1500 Extended Cab Long Box (4WD)* Axle Ratio Engine (Trans.) 4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

C-2500 LD (2WD)** Engine 6000 V8

3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10

Max. Trailer Wt. 6,700 lbs. (3 041 kg) 7,700 lbs. (3 495 kg) 4,700 lbs. (2 133 kg) 5,700 lbs. (2 587 kg) 7,700 lbs. (3 495 kg) 8,700 lbs. (3 949 kg)

GCWR 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 11,000 lbs. (4 994 kg) 13,000 lbs. (5 902 kg) 14,000 lbs. (6 356 kg)

Axle Ratio

3.73
4.10

Max. Trailer Wt. 8,800 lbs. (3 995 kg) 10,800 lbs. (4 903 kg)

GCWR 14,000 lbs. (6 356 kg) 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to15 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,500 lb (680 kg) maximum. ** Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch pulling weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch pulling weight 2,000 lb (907 kg) maximum.

4-74

C-2500 Regular Cab Long Box HD (2WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio

6.6L V8 Diesel

C-2500 Extended Cab Short Box HD (2WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio

4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73

4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73

6.6L V8 Diesel

Max. Trailer Wt. 10,500 lbs. (4 767 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

Max. Trailer Wt. 10,300 lbs. (4 676 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 20,000 lbs. (9 080 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 20,000 lbs. (9 080 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch weight 2,500 lb (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg).

4-75

C-2500 Extended Cab Long Box HD (2WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio

4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73

4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73

6.6L V8 Diesel

C-2500 Crew Cab Short Box HD (2WD)* Axle Ratio Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8

6.6L V8 Diesel

Max. Trailer Wt. 10,200 lbs. (4 627 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

Max. Trailer Wt. 10,100 lbs. (4 585 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 20,000 lbs. (9 080 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 20,000 lbs. (9 080 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch weight 2,500 lb (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg).

4-76

C-2500 Crew Cab Long Box HD (2WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio Max. Trailer Wt.

4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73

10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 20,000 lbs. (9 080 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

6.6L V8 Diesel

K-2500 LD (4WD)* Engine 6000 V8

Axle Ratio

3.73
4.10

Max. Trailer Wt. 8,300 lbs. (3 768 kg) 10,300 lbs. (4 676 kg)

GCWR 14,000 lbs. (6 356 kg) 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch weight 2,500 lb (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg).

4-77

K-2500 Regular Cab Short Box HD (4WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio

6.6L V8 Diesel

K-2500 Regular Cab Long Box HD (4WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio

4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73

4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73

6.6L V8 Diesel

Max. Trailer Wt. 10,200 lbs. (4 630 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

Max. Trailer Wt. 10,200 lbs. (4 630 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 20,000 lbs. (9 080 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 20, 000 lbs. (9 080 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch weight 2,500 lb (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg).

4-78

K-2500 Extended Cab Long Box HD (4WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio

4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73

4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73

6.6L V8 Diesel

K-2500 Crew Cab Short Box HD (4WD)* Axle Ratio Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8

6.6L V8 Diesel

Max. Trailer Wt. 9,900 lbs. (4 494 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

Max. Trailer Wt. 9,800 lbs. (4 449 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 20,000 lbs. (9 080 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 20,000 lbs. (9 080 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22, 000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch weight 2,500 lb (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg).

4-79

4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73

K-2500 Crew Cab Long Box HD (4WD)* Axle Ratio Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8

6.6L V8 Diesel

C-3500 Regular Cab HD (2WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8
6.6L V8 Diesel

4.10
4.10
3.73

Axle Ratio

Max. Trailer Wt. 9,900 lbs. (4 491 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

Max. Trailer Wt. 10,200 lbs. (4 630 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 20,000 lbs. (9 080 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch weight 2,500 lb (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg).

4-80

C-3500 Extended Cab (2WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8
6.6L V8 Diesel

Axle Ratio

4.10
4.10
3.73

Max. Trailer Wt. 9,800 lbs. (4 449 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

C-3500 Crew Cab (2WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8
6.6L V8 Diesel

Axle Ratio

4.10
4.10
3.73

Max. Trailer Wt. 9,600 lbs. (4 491 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch weight 2,500 lb (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg).

4-81

K-3500 Regular Cab (4WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8
6.6L V8 Diesel

4.10
4.10
3.73

Axle Ratio

K-3500 Extended Cab (4WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8
6.6L V8 Diesel

4.10
4.10
3.73

Axle Ratio

Max. Trailer Wt. 9,900 lbs. (4 494 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)

Max. Trailer Wt. 9,500 lbs. (4 313 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch weight 2,500 lb (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg).

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K-3500 Crew Cab (4WD)* Engine 6000 V8
8100 V8
6.6L V8 Diesel

Axle Ratio

4.10
4.10
3.73

Max. Trailer Wt. 9,300 lbs. (4 222 kg) 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)** 12,000 lbs. (5 448 kg)**

GCWR 16,000 lbs. (7 264 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg) 22,000 lbs. (9 988 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10 percent to 15 percent of hitch weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15 percent to 25 percent of hitch weight 2,500 lb (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg).

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You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

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If you’re using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. For trailers up to 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) you may attach the safety chains to the attaching points on the bumper. For heavier trailers, follow the trailer or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: D If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could

be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.

D If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than the capacity stamped on your step bumper, be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

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Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if: D The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi

(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

D The trailer’s brake system will use less than

0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.

If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods of sunshine, the floor of the truck bed may become very warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed that might be affected by high ambient temperatures.

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Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

Making Turns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

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Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode” in the Index. If you have a 5-speed manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).

If you have a 6-speed manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use SIXTH (6) gear. Drive in FIFTH (5) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

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Parking on Hills

CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet for an automatic transmission, or into gear for a manual transmission.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.

5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be

sure the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL.

6. Release the regular brakes.

CAUTION:

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: D start your engine, D shift into a gear, and D release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle is equipped with one of the following wiring harnesses for towing a trailer or hauling a slide-in camper.

Basic Trailer Wiring Package All regular, extended cab crew cab pickups have a six-wire trailer towing harness.

The six-wire harness is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness requires the installation of a trailer-wiring harness connector, which is available through your dealer. The six-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal D Brown: Taillamps D White: Ground D Light Green: Back-up Lamps D Light Blue: Center High-Mounted

Stoplamp (CHMSL)

If you need to upgrade your vehicle to heavy-duty trailering, a brake controller harness and an underbody harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector are available from your dealer.

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The eight-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal D Brown: Taillamps D White: Ground D Light Green: Back-up Lamps D Light Blue: CHMSL D Red: Battery Feed D Dark Blue: Trailer Brake A jumper harness for an electric trailer brake controller and a trailer battery feed fuse are included with this trailering package. (See “Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness” later in this section.) If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is included with your vehicle.

Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package (If Equipped)

Your pickup may be equipped with the eight-wire trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the platform hitch.* * The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) wire is tied next to the trailer wiring harness for use with a trailer, slide-in camper or cap.

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Camper/Fifth-Wheel Trailer Wiring Package (If Equipped) The eight-wire camper harness is located under the front edge of the pickup box on the driver’s side of the vehicle, attached to the frame bracket. A connector will have to be added to the wiring harness which connects to the camper. The eight-wire harness contains the following camper/trailer circuits: D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal D Brown: Taillamps D White: Ground D Light Green: Back-up Lamps D Light Blue: Center High-Mounted

Stoplamp (CHMSL)

D Red: Battery Feed D Dark Blue: Trailer Brake A jumper harness for an electric trailer brake controller and a trailer battery feed fuse are included with this trailering package. (See “Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness” later in this section.)

If your vehicle is equipped with the “Heavy-Duty Trailering” option, please refer to “Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package”, earlier in this section. When the camper-wiring harness is ordered without the heavy-duty trailering package, an eight-wire harness with a seven-pin connector and separate CHMSL connector are located at the rear of the vehicle and are tied to the vehicle’s frame.

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Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness

Four Wire Trailer Harness Adapter If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is included with your vehicle.

Connect the adapter with the tab (arrow) pointing towards the top. The cap on the wiring harness will lock onto the tab (arrow) and help hold the adapter in place.

This harness is included with the heavy-duty and camper/fifth-wheel trailer wiring packages. The harness is for an electric trailer brake controller and includes a trailer battery feed fuse. This harness and fuse should be installed by your dealer or a qualified service center.

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Auxiliary Battery (If Equipped) The auxiliary battery provision can be used to supply electrical power to additional equipment that you may choose to add, such as a slide-in camper.

If your vehicle has this provision, this relay will be located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, next to the auxiliary battery.

The auxiliary battery circuit is protected by a megafuse located behind the auxiliary battery. Be sure to follow the proper installation instructions that are included with any electrical equipment that you install.

NOTICE:

When using the auxiliary battery provision, the electrical load must not exceed 30 amps. Always turn off any electrical equipment when not in use. Leaving electrical equipment on for extended periods will drain your battery.

When using this provision, connection should only be made to the upper stud (A) of the relay. Do not make connections to the lower stud (B) of the relay.

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Power Winches If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.

NOTICE:

Using a power winch with the transmission in gear may damage the transmission. When operating a power winch, always leave the transmission in NEUTRAL (N).

Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake, or block the wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling. Power Take-Off (PTO) (If Equipped) Before using a PTO, refer to the manufacturer’s or installer’s instructions. To engage a PTO on a vehicle with a manual transmission do the following: 1. Hold the clutch pedal down. 2. Set the parking brake.

3. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL (N). 4. Engage the PTO. Refer to the manufacturer’s

or installer’s for instructions on electrically engaged PTOs.

5. For mobile operations, shift the transmission into the

gear you want, apply the regular brakes and release the parking brake. For stationary operations, leave the parking brake applied.

6. Release the clutch and regular brakes as you

normally would. When the clutch is released, the PTO will start.

7. Turn the PTO rotary switch to ON. To engage a PTO on a vehicle with an automatic transmission do the following: 1. For stationary use shift the transmission

into PARK (P).

2. Turn the PTO rotary switch ON. 3. If the engine speed is below the PTO engage speed limit, the PTO will start. The blinking LED on the PTO control switch indicates PTO engage is requested. When PTO engages the LED will switch from blinking to a steady light.

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To use PTO speed control in Preset Mode (Factory Setting) do the following: 1. Engage the PTO 2. Select PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) range. Apply the

parking brake if NEUTRAL (N) is selected. Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is not available in NEUTRAL (N) and is available only in PARK (P) when engine speed is above 1100 rpm.

3. Make sure your foot is off the brake pedal

(and off the clutch on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission).

4. Select the desired engine speed for PTO operation.

Read the following preset mode information regarding operation.

Preset Mode: PTO speed control mode is used for stationary applications. (PTO will remain engaged while mobile in the preset mode, however PTO set and resume speed controls will be inoperative). This mode provides a default standby speed of 800 or 850 rpm (depending on the engine/transmission combination) and two default PTO control speeds which follow: 1. PTO Set Speed of 1250 rpm, or 2. PTO Resume Speed of 1700 rpm. Please note that the standby speed (800/850 rpm) is not to be used as a PTO control speed. Vehicles not equipped with cruise control will not have the resume speed capability. To use PTO speed control in variable mode (while mobile) do the following: 1. Engage the PTO. 2. Vehicle speed must be greater than 5 mph. 3. Make sure your foot is off the brake pedal

(and off the clutch for vehicles equipped with a manual transmission).

4. Select the desired engine speed by using the foot

pedal, and select SET on the PTO switch or the cruise control.

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All engine speed values listed above are factory preset values. With the exception of the TCC lockup speed (1100 rpm) and the “tap” increment (100 rpm), all of these values are programmable and can be adjusted by your dealer or body upfitter. If the PTO software settings do not match the settings shown here, then they may have already been altered in order to satisfy the requirements of the installed PTO system and body equipment. Step-Bumper Pad Your vehicle has a rear step bumper with a rear step pad at the center of the bumper.

If you will be using the bumper to tow a trailer, you must remove the center cutout circle to install the trailer ball.

To use PTO speed control in variable mode (while stationary) do the following: 1. Engage the PTO. 2. Vehicle speed must be less than 5 mph. 3. Make sure your foot is off the brake pedal

(and off the clutch for vehicles equipped with a manual transmission).

4. Select the desired engine speed by using the foot

pedal, and select SET on the PTO switch or the cruise control.

Variable Mode: PTO speed control mode can be used for both stationary and mobile applications. This mode allows PTO to be controlled in a fashion similar to how cruise control sets vehicle speed. The operator can set to an rpm (between 800 and 2200) with the cruise control feature or with the SET position on the PTO switch. The operator is then able to increase rpm in increments of 100, or “tap up”, with the resume position on the cruise control. Or, the operator can decrease rpm in increments of 100 with the SET switch on the PTO or the cruise control. Vehicles not equipped with cruise control will not have the “tap up” capability.

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Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

5-2
5-2
5-3
5-9
5-10

Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating (Gasoline Engine)

5-13
5-20
5-20
5-21
5-36

Cooling System (Gasoline Engine) Engine Fan Noise If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

5-

5-1

Hazard Warning Flashers

The hazard warning flasher button is located at the top of the steering column.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. Press the button to make the front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off. Press the button again to turn the flashers off. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can use them to warn others. Set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

5-2

Jump Starting If your battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: D They contain acid that can burn you. D They contain gas that can explode or ignite. D They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. The ACDelcoR battery in your vehicle has a built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

5-3

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

2. If you have a vehicle with a diesel engine with two

batteries (or more), you should know before you begin that, especially in cold weather, you may not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another vehicle to start your diesel engine. If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that’s closer to the starter -- this will reduce electrical resistance.

3. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear not in NEUTRAL.

5-4

5. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (-) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind a red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive bracket. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover. The remote negative (-) terminal is located on the engine drive bracket on all V8 and diesel engines. On V8 engines it is marked “GND.” On V6 engines the remote negative (-) terminal is located on a tab attached to the engine accessory drive bracket where it is marked “GND.” See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelcoR battery (or batteries) installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5-5

7. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

6. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or a remote positive terminal (+) if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. On vehicles equipped with dual batteries, make all battery connections to the remote positive (+) and remote negative (-) terminals.

5-6

8. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

9. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part, or to the remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

5-7

NOTICE:

Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

V8 Engine

V6 Engine, Diesel Similar

10. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the dead battery or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. 11. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

12. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

5-8

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (-) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (-) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the bad battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover to its

original position.

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index.

5-9

NOTICE:

After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. Repair the cause of coolant loss and change the oil. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” in the Index. In addition, you will find a LOW COOLANT, CHECK COOLANT TEMP, ENGINE OVERHEATED and a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message in the message center on the instrument panel. See “Message Center” in the Index. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) If an overheated engine condition exists and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

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If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message, can indicate a serious problem. See “Low Coolant Message” in the Index. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. D Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it’s on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (B) or DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.

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Cooling System (Gasoline Engine) When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

8100 V8 Engines

All Other Engines

A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

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The coolant level should be at or above the FILL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank --Gasoline Engines If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FILL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.

NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

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CAUTION:

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.

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Your vehicle may be equipped with one of the two caps shown.

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

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3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper

mixture, to the FILL COLD mark.

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the

engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FILL COLD mark.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure

cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

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Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission

CAUTION: (Continued)

4. Turn off the engine. 5. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

shift lever in PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).

3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle,

be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL.

CAUTION: (Continued)

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

Regular Cab

Extended and Crew CabR

The equipment you’ll need is behind the passenger’s seat. For Extended and Crew Cab models, the equipment is under the passenger’s side second row seat.

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1. If there is a cover, move the seats forward and turn

the wing nut on the cover counterclockwise to remove it. For Crew Cab models, pull up the second row seat with the loop at the base of the seat cushion to access the tools.

2. The wheel blocks and the wheel block retainer can be

removed by turning the wing nut counterclockwise. 3. To release the bottle jack from its holder, turn the knob on the bottle jack counterclockwise to lower the jack head.

4. There is also a wing nut used to retain the

storage bag and tools. To remove it, turn the wing nut counterclockwise.

You’ll use the jack handle and the wheel wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.

A. Hoist Assembly B. Wheel Wrench C. Extensions D. Hoist Shaft E. Valve Stem,

Pointed Down

F. Spare Tire

G. Tire Retainer H. Hoist Cable I. Hoist Lock J. Hoist Shaft Access Hole

K. Hoist End

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Follow these instructions to lower the spare tire: 1. If the vehicle is equipped with a hoist lock, open the

spare tire lock cover on the bumper and use the ignition key to remove the lock.

2. Assemble the wheel wrench and the two jack handle extensions as shown. Insert the hoist end (open end) of the extension through the hole in the rear bumper. Be sure the hoist end of the extension connects into the hoist shaft.

3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. The wheel wrench has a hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you, to assist in reaching the spare tire.

4. When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable so it can be pulled up through