2003 GMC Savana Owners Manual

to spin.

A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues - such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

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Driving at Night

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired - by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

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Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively. Don't drink and drive. Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you. Since you can't see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you're tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you're driving, don't wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean - inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness - the inability to see in dim light - and aren’t even aware of it.

the inside of the glass

less of a

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.

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The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

v! __ br,.-es can cause accid,..ts. They wc.. 1

work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water

Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Driving Through FlclAfing Water

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips 0 Besides slowing down, allow some extra following

distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires on page 5-60.

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City Driving

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:

Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. See the next part, “Freeway Driving.” Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.

The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot.

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Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservior full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. 5efore Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh - such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

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Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen.

Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable.

Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

0 As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There

could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

Winter Driving

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c

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.

Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Braking on page 4-6.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.

0 Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine

until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:

Turn on your hazard flashers.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

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ur

Snow can trap exhaust gases under vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery (or batteries) charged. You will need a well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

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If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-69. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” following.

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Towing

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle - such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with any of its wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, see “Towing Your Vehicle” earlier in this section.

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Loading Your Vehicle

COLD TIRE PRESSUR

The Certificationnire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

0 0 o n

NUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATIONTI

The CertificationRire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.

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le

tl

Do noi bad your vehicle any heavier GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly. Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you need to.

Payload The Payload Capacity is shown on the Certification/Tire label. This is the maximum load capacity that your vehicle can carry. Be sure to include the weight of the people inside as part of your load. If you added any accessories or equipment after your vehicle left the factory, remember to subtract the weight of these things from the payload. Your dealer can help you with this. Add-on Equipment When you carry removable items, you may need to put a limit on how many people you carry inside your vehicle. Be sure to weigh your vehicle before you buy and install the new equipment.

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To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.

Towing a Trailer

If yo^, Uon’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Additional rear axle maintenance is required for a vehicle used to tow a trailer. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 4,000 Ibs (1 800 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than 4,000 Ibs (1 800 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.

Tow/Haul Mode Tow/haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to:

Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

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Tow/haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). Tow/haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: 0 When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy

load through rolling terrain. When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load in stop and go traffic. When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.

Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of tow/haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

Your vehicle is equipped with a button on the instrument panel, to the right of the steering wheel, which when pressed enables tow/haul.

TOW / HAUL I

When the button is pressed, this light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that tow/haul has been selected.

Tow/haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off tow/haul every time it

is started

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Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. The following chart shows how much your trailer can weigh, based upon vehicle model and options.

Vehicle*

GI500 Cargo Van 2WD*

I Axle Ratio I

Vehicle*

(31500 Passenger Van 2WD* 4300 V6

I Axle Ratio I

3.42

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR

4,000 Ibs. (1 81 6 kg)

9,000 Ibs. (4 086

kg)

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I

GCWR

Vehicle*

Ratio

Maximum Trailer

Weight

I Axle I ;.%

6,400 Ibs. (2 906 kg)

GI500 Passenger Van 2WD* 5300 V8 * Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs (680kg). I Vehicle* I Axle I HI500 Passenger Van AWD* Ratio I 5300 V 8 I 2% I I * Tongue weight should

6,200 Ibs. (2 815 kg)

up to 1,000 Ibs (454 kg).

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR

12,000 Ibs. (5 448 kg

12,000 Ibs. (5 448 kg)

be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight I Axle Ratio I

Maximum Trailer

Weight

Vehicle* G2500 Cargo Van 2WD* 4300 V6 4800 V8 5300 V 8 6000 V 8 * Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,000 Ibs (454 kg).

6,600 Ibs. (2 996 kg) 8,300 Ibs. (3 768 kg 10,000 Ibs. (4 540 kg

4,700 Ibs. (2 1234 kg) 6,300 Ibs. (2 860 kg)

3.73 3.73 4.1 0 3.73 3.73 4.1 0

7,300. (3 314 kg)

9,500 Ibs. (4 313 kg) 11,000 Ibs. (4 994 kg) 12,000 Ibs. (5 448 kg) 12,000 Ibs. (5 448 kg) 14,000 Ibs. (6 356 kg 16,000 Ibs. (7 264 kg

GCWR

4-36

5300 V8 6000 V8

3.73

6,400 Ibs. (2 906

kg)

12,000

Ibs.

(5 448 kg)

I Axle Ratio

Maximum Trailer Weiaht

Vehicle* G2500 Passenger Van 2WD Short Wheelbase* 6000 V8 * Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,000 Ibs (454 kg).

Ibs. (3 587 kg) 9,900 Ibs. (4 495 kg)

3.73 4.10

GCWR

14,000 lbs.(6 538 kg) 7,900 16,000 Ibs. (7 264 kg)

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I Axle Ratio

I Axle

Vehicle* G3500 Cargo Van 2WD Short Wheelbase* 6000 V8 * Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs (680 kg).

8,300 Ibs. (3 768 kg) 10,000 Ibs. (4 540 kg)

Maximum Trailer Weight

3.73 4.10

GCWR

14,000 Ibs. (6 356 kg) 16,000 Ibs. (7 264 kg

Ratio

Vehicle* G3500 Cargo Van 2WD Long Wheelbase* 6000 V8 I * Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs (680 kg).

8,100 Ibs. (3 677 kg) 10,000 Ibs. (4 540 kg)

Maximum Trailer Weight

3.73 4.1 0

GCWR

14,000 Ibs. (6 356 kg) 16,000 Ibs. (7 264 ka

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6000 V8

-~

~~~

3.73 4.1 0

7,700 Ibs. (3 496 kg) 9,700 Ibs. (4 404 kg)

14,000 Ibs. (6 356 kg) 16,000 Ibs. (7 264 kg

* Tongue weight should be 10 percent to 15 percent of trailer weight up to 1,500 Ibs (680 kg).

I Vehicle*

I Axle Ratio I

Maximum Trailer Weight

GCWR

_ _ _ ~ ~ ~ ~

Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver is in the towing vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional equipment, passengers and cargo in the towing vehicle must be subtracted from the above maximum trailer weights.

dealer for our trailering information or

You can ask your advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1 H 8P7

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30 about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-30. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.

4-40

Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. Do not use a ball hitch, because it could pull the bumper loose. If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 4,000 Ibs (1 800 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving. Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?

If you’re using the wiring provided by the factory-installed hitch, you should not need to make any holes in the body of your vehicle. However, if you have an aftermarket hitch installed, you may need to make holes in the body. If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. Dirt and water can, too. Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

4-4 1

Trailer Brakes

Driving with a Trailer

If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 Ibs (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes - and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer brake system can tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system, except:

rn

rn

Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will use more than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. Will the trailer parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use double-walled steel tubing.

4-42

If you have a rear-most windot.. Jpen anc ,DU pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can’t see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index. To maximize your safety when towing a trailer:

0 Have your exhaust system inspected for

leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip.

0 Keep the rear-most windows closed.

If exhaust does come into your vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use the climate control setting for maximum air because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. See “Climate Controls” in the Index.

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

4-43

Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you starr down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 5-28.

Making Turns

Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in the optional trailering package). The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

if the bulbs on the trailer

4-44

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: 0 start your engine,

shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the

chocks.

Park'-g on t"'ls

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here's how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don't shift into

PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer

wheels.

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your

parking brake and then shift to PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

4-45

Seven-Wire Harness

Light Green: Back-up lamps Brown: Parking lamps Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal Dark Green: Right stoplamp and Dark Blue: Use for electric Orange: Trailer accessory White (heavy gage): Ground wire

trailer brakes

turn signal

Four-Wire Harness (Trailer Brake Controller)

Black: Ground Redmhite Stripe: Fused Battery Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Feed Light Blue: Fused StopKHMSL

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Wiring Harness The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package includes a seven-wire harness assembly at the rear of the vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly under the left hand side of the instrument panel. The seven-wire harness assembly is taped together and located in a frame pocket at the driver side rear left corner of the frame. The seven-wire harness includes a 30-amp feed wire. Both harnesses come without connectors and should be wired by a qualified electrical technician. The technician can use the following color code chart when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer and trailer brake controller.

4-46

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

. .

Service ............................................................ 5.3 Doing Your Own Service Work ......................... 5-3 Adding Equipment to

the Outside of Your Vehicle ............................................

...... 5.4 Fuel ................................................................ 5.5 Gasoline Octane ............................................ 5.5 Gasoline Specifications .................................... 5-5 California Fuel .............................................. 5 - 6 Additives ....................................................... 5.6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ............................... 5.6 Filling Your Tank ............................................ 5-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container ....................... 5-8

Checking Things Under

the Hood ...................................................... 5.9 Hood Release ................................................ 5.9 Engine Compartment Overview ....................... 5.12 Engine Oil ................................................... 5.14 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................ 5.19 Automatic Transmission Fluid ......................... 5.21 Engine Coolant ............................................. 5.24 Radiator Pressure Cap ............... ........ 5.27

Engine Overheating ....................................... 5-28 Cooling System ............................................ 5.30 Engine Fan Noise ......................................... 5.37 Power Steering Fluid .................................... 5-37 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................ 5.38 Brakes ........................................................ 5.40 ................................ 5.43 Battery ............. Jump Starting .... ............................ 5.44 All-Wheel Drive .............................................. 5-49 Rear Axle ....................................................... 5.50 Front Axle ...................................................... 5.51 Noise Control System ..................................... 5.52

Tampering with Noise Control System

Prohibited ................................................. 5-52 Bulb Replacement .......................................... 5.54 Halogen Bulbs .............................................. 5.54 Headlamps .................................................. 5.54 Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking

Lamps ..................................................... 5-56 Taillamps ..................................................... 5.56 Replacement Bulbs ....................................... 5.58

5- 1

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

...........

......................

Vehicle Identification

.....................................

................................ .................................

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle .............. 5-90 5.92 Sheet Metal Damage Finish Damage 5.93 Underbody Maintenance 5.93 Chemical Paint Spotting 5-93 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ........... 5.94 ...................................... 5-96 ................. 5-96 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label ..................... 5.96 5-97 5-97 Add-on Electrical Equipment ... Headlamp Wiring ................... 5-97 Windshield Wiper Fuses 5-97 ......... Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................ 5.98 Capacities and 5.103 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts ......... 5.106

Electrical System .....................

Specifications

........................

Tires

.......................

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement .............. 5.59 5.60 Tires .............................................................. Inflation .. Tire Pressure ................................ 5.61 Dual Tire Operation ....................................... 5.62 Tire Inspection and Rotation ........................... 5.62 When It Is Time for New 5-64 Buying New Tires ........................................ 5-65 Uniform Tire Quality Grading .......................... 5.66 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance .................. 5-67 Wheel Replacement ............................ ....... 5.68 Tire Chains ........................................ ....... 5.69 ....... 5.69 If a Tire Goes Flat .............................. Changing a Flat Tire ........................... ....... 5.70 Appearance Care ............................................ 5.86 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle ................. 5-86 Care of Safety Belts 5-89 Weatherstrips ............................................... 5.89

.....................................

5-2

Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7- I I. Your vehicle may have an air bag system. If it does, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-73 before attempting to do your own service work.

5-3

You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Ps E; Maintenance Record on page 6-79.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check I with your dealer before adding equipment to the

outside of your vehicle.

. DU cal be i :le coulc e damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

wed and

)ur VE

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

5-4

Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle.

Gasoline Octane

Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications

It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.

Canada Only

5-5

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-34 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

5-6

Notices Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

I To remove the fuel cap,

turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). While refueling, place the fuel capin the holder provided.

Eillinc "qur Tank

Fuel vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don't smoke if you're near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel.

The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver's side of your vehicle.

. ,.. _. I', ~- .-

If you get fuel on yourself anu then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any "hiss" noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

N er fill a portable fuel contai r your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

t is

Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete. Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-90. When filling the tank do not overfill by squeezing in much more fuel after the pump shuts off. When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction lndicator Lamp on page 3-34.

Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction lndicator Lamp” in the Index.

5-8

Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

that burn can get on hot engine parts

Thih,,s and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

1. Pull this handle inside

the vehicle. It is located in front of the driver’s side door frame near the floor.

5-9

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up the secondary hood release underneath the middle of the hood.

3. Lift the hood.

5-1 0

I _ .. . ".

"i

4. Release the hood prop

from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood hinge on the driver's side.

If your vehicle has an underhood lamp, it will automatically come on and stay on until the hood is closed. Before closing the hood, be sure all of the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. then let the hood down and close it firmly.

5-1 1

Engine Compartment Overview When you lift the hood, you'll see these items:

5-1 2

A. Battery B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Coolant Recovery Tank D. Transmission Fluid Dipstick E. Engine Oil Fill F. Engine Oil Dipstick

G. Air Filter Restriction Indicator H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter I. Power Steering Reservoir J. Brake Master Cylinder K. Windshield Washer Fluid

5-1 3

Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

The engine oil dipstick has a yellow handle and is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

5-1 4

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5- 103. Notice: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

The engine oil filler cap is located between the coolant recovery tank and the engine air cleaner/filter. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

5-1 5

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you choose to perform the engine oil change service yourself, be sure the oil you use has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

I-

LOOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

HOT

WEATHER "C "F

+ 100

+ 38

t an

+ 60

t 21

t 16

t 40

+ 4

t 20

- 7

- 18 1 - 1

,I- SAE

1 OW-30

ACCEPTABLE IF 5W-30 IS NOT

AVAILABLE

SAE 5W-30 RECOMMENDED

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the viscosity chart.

C LD

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 20W-50 OR ANY OTHER VISCOSITY GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

5-1 6

As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle. You should look for and use only oils which have the API Starburst symbol and which are also identified as SAE 5W-30. If you cannot find such SAE 5W-30 oils, you can use an SAE IOW-30 oil which has the API Starburst symbol, if it's going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE 1OW-40 or SAE 20W-50 under any conditions.

Notice: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29"C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don't add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life System) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light on the instrument panel will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time they system must be reset. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

5-1 7

How to Reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL Light The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a change engine oil light being turned on, reset the system. To reset the change engine oil light, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal

three times within five seconds.

3. If the change engine oil light flashes for

five seconds, the system is reset.

If the system does not reset, try the procedure once again. If it still does not reset, see your dealer for service. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 3-38.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

5-1 8

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

The engine air cleaner/filter is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for more information on location.

Your vehicle may have this feature. The engine air cleaner/filter assembly has an indicator that lets you know when the air filter is dirty and needs to be serviced.

If the area inside the clear section of the indicator is green, no air filter service is required. When the area inside the indicator is orange and CHANGE AIR FILTER appears, press the button to reset.

5-1 9

Check the indicator again after your vehicle has been driven. If the area inside the indicator is orange and CHANGE AIR FILTER appears, the filter should be replaced. To replace the engine air cleanedfilter, do the following:

See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5-106 for the proper filter to use. Refer to the maintenance schedule to determine when to replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

1. Unhook the retainer clips and remove the cover. 2. Lift the filter out of the engine air cleanedfilter housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.

3. Clean the engine air cleaner/filter housing. 4. Install the new engine air cleanedfilter into the

engine air cleanedfilter housing. Make sure that it fits properly into the housing.

5. Install the cover and fasten the retaining clips. 6. After the engine air cleaner/filter is properly serviced, the indicator should be reset. Push the button on the top of the indicator to reset it to the green (clean) filter zone.

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleanedfilter off.

Notice: If the air cleanedfilter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

5-20

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83,000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer towing. Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (1 66 000 km). See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).

5-21

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The transmission dipstick is located near the center of the engine compartment and will be labeled with this graphic shown. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information

on location.

Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again.

Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (1OOC). If it's colder than 50°F (lOOC), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10OC) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

5-22

Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-1 7. Using a funnel, add fluid down the transmission dipstick tube only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overf;l/. Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@ -111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@ -111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under ”How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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Notices When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL@ engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL@ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-28. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

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Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant.

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Checking Coolant

The coolant recovery tank is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at COLD FILL, or a little higher.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

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Turnin- he radia pressul engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

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Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to snill it.

if ’,

-an be burn

’ engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

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u s,

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-30.

The radiator pressure cap is located near the center of the engine compartment. Notices Your radiator cap is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating.

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Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

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Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

Notice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See ”Driving on Grades” in Towing a Trailer on page 4-32.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:

1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL(N)

while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL(N) and let the engine idle.