2003 GMC Savana Owners Manual

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

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Cooling System

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD FILL mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Engine Cooling Fan(s) If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

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Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

Nofice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

HOW to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the COLD FILL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-2 ‘or I

Irmation.

re i

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX COOL@ coolant.

Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

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When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the COLD FILL mark, start your vehicle.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engine.

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If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it. -

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that means there is still some pressure left.

to stop. A hiss

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3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL@

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-24 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the COLD

FILL mark.

5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

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6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the

upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during

this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap.

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Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch partially disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.

in fan noise. This is

Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

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When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the COLD FILL mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. To prevent contamination of brake fluid, never check or fill the power steering reservoir with the brake master cylinder cover off.

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 17. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to reaa the manufacturer’s instructions before use. be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

If you will

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Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

Notice:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is

the brake fluid level in

in,

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that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6- 15.

Checking Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-17.

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-16. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake peda’ “rmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco@ battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco@ battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning; Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from run ‘ ~ l g down.

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature (Non-RDS Radios) on page 3-73 or Theft-Deterrent Feature (RDS Radios) on page 3-73.

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Jump Starting

If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow “ e steps below to do it safely.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

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Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (-) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery.

The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind a red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive bracket on the driver’s side below the alternator. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover. The remote negative engine drive bracket on all V8 engines and it is marked “GND.” On V6 engines the remote negative (-) terminal is located on a tab attached to the engine accessory drive bracket where it is marked “GND.” See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12.

(-) terminal is located on the

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. CAUTION:

(Continued)

Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDeko@ battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

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5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable to

the negative (-) terminal of the dead battery or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it

won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the positve (+) remote terminal to its original

position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (-) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (-) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

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How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

All-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-15.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 17.

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Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

If you have the 1500 Series, the proper level is from 5/8 inch (15 mm) to 1 5/8 inch (40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 2500 and 3500 Series is from 0 to 1/4 (6 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 17.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 3/8 inch (10 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-17.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant.

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Noise Control System

Tampering with Noise Control System Prohibited The following information relates to compliance with federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 Ibs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States.

Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof:

1.

2.

The removal or rendering inoperative by any person, other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or The use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

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Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation: 0 Removal of the noise shields or any underhood

insulation.

Engine:

Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.

Fan and Drive:

Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering clutch inoperative.

0 Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped).

Air Intake: 0 Removal of the air cleaner silencer. 0 Modification of the air cleaner. Exhaust:

Removal of the muffler and/or resonator.

0 Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe

clamps.

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Headlamps 1. 2.

Remove the two bolts from the headlamp assembly. Remove the two pins on the top of the headlamp assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin clockwise and pull it straight up. To remove the inner pin, turn it counterclockwise and pull it straight up. Lift the inboard side of the headlamp to release the inboard tab from the radiator support. Lift the outboard side of the headlamp to release the outboard tab from the radiator support. Lower the headlamp to allow the vertical adjustor to clear tie bar. Turn the headlamp forward and upward to remove it from the grille. Turn the bulb connector counterclockwise and pull it out of the housing.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. For the type of bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-58. Halogen

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

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8. Without removing the headlamp assembly itself,

remove the bulb socket from the back of the headlamp on the driver’s side.

9. Turn the bulb counterclockwise one quarter

remove it from the socket.

turn to

10. On the passenger’s side, turn the bulb clockwise one turn. Do not touch the glass part of the bulb.

11. Install the new bulb into the socket and return it to

the headlamp assembly.

12. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle

and reinstall the two pins.

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2.

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps 1.

Use a small tool to unlatch the outboard clip on this lamp. Pull the lamp forward to completely unlatch the clip. Move the lamp outboard to loosen the tabs. Remove the lamp from the grille. Squeeze the tab on the side of the bulb assembly while turning it counterclockwise. Remove the bulb assembly from the back of the lens and replace the bulb. Turn the socket clockwise to reinstall it in the lens assembly.

3. 4.

5.

6.

Taillamps

1. Remove the two inboard nuts on the side assembly. 2. Pull side assembly rearward to clear studs. 3. Rotate side assembly on the outboard side,

releasing the upper clip.

4. Slide assembly slightly upward to release lower clip. 5. Reinstall the clips to the side assembly 6. Remove the three nuts on the taillamp. 7. Remove the taillamp from the vehicle.

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8. To remove, squeeze the tab on the side of the

sockets while turning them counterclockwise.

9. Turn the bulb counterclockwise to remove it. Install

the new bulb.

10. Reverse the above steps to reinstall the lamp.

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Center High Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)

Replacement Bulbs

I Sealed Beam Headlamps

Exterior Lamp

I Bulb Number I H6054 I 9006GS

~~~~~~

Composite Low-Beam HeadlamDs Composite High-Beam Headlamps Front Sidemarker Lamp Front Parking and Turn Lamp I Back-up Lamp Rear Parking, Stop, and Turn Lamp CHMSL For any bulb not listed here, contact your dealer.

9005 1 94 3 1 57KX I 31 57 31 57 I912

It is recommended that this component be replaced as a unit by your dealer.

5-58

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See "Wiper Blade Check" in At Least Twice a Year on page 6-1 1 for more information.

Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. To remove the type with a release clip, do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical

position.

2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking

tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.

3. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the notched end last, into the end with two blade claws. Then slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end.

5. Make sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slot. 6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook.

Pull it up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly

into the windshield.

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Ti res Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Warranty booklet for details.

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Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Inflation -- Tire Pressure

The CertificationlTire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading

0 Bad wear

Bad handling Bad fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear 0 Bad handling 0 Rough ride 0 Needless damage from road hazards

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Dual Tire Operation

Tire Inspection and Rotation

Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (IO 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-64 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-68 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the ratchet/wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70. If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, also see Dual Tire Operation on page 5-62. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services,” in Section 6, for scheduled rotation intervals.

When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (1 60, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque and wheel nut tightening information, see “Tightening the Wheel Nuts” later in this section. The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” earlier in this section. Also see “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals

If you operate your vehicle v u l r l i a tire that is badly underinflated, the tire can overheat. An overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including the spare) are properly inflated.

See “Tires” and “Inflation - Tire Pressure” in the Index for more information on proper tire inflation.

5-62

FRT

FRT

If your vehicle has single rear wheels, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating lour tires.

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires. When you install dual wheels, be sure that vent holes in the inner and outer wheels on each side are lined up. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on -- -ge 5- 103.

Rust or ----st on a whe , or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

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When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:

You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

5-64

Buying New Tires

To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the CertificationlTire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

;e contrc.

Mixing tires could cause you to while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires) the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire's resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

5-6'1

Wheel Replacement

Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

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Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5- 103. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70 for more information.

Us8-? R-’-cemen+ ‘Yheels

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Tire Chains

Notice: Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout”, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop - well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-69

Changing a Flat Tire

If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

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The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

Remove the retaining wing bolt and lift it off the mounting bracket.

If you have a van with the 15-passenger seating arrangement, the equipment you’ll need is secured on the rear passenger side floor of the vehicle. Remove the retaining wing bolt and lift it out of the mounting bracket.

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Attach the wheel wrench and ratchet, with the DOWN side facing you. The wheel wrench

I has a socket end and a

flat chisel end.

Put the flat chisel end of the wheel wrench on an angle through the hole between the body and the bumper. Be sure the flat end connects into the hoist shaft.

The tools you'll be using include the jack (A), jack handle extension (B), jack handle (C), wheel wrench (D) and the ratchet (E). Your spare tire is stored underneath the rear of your vehicle. You will use the wheel wrench (D) and the ratchet (E) to lower the spare tire. The ratchet has a DOWN side and an UP side.

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Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower. See “Secondary Latch System” later in this section.

When the tire has been lowered, pull the tire toward you so you can reach the tire retainer and pull it up through the wheel opening. If you have a vehicle which was completed from a cab and chassis, refer to the information from the body supplier/installer. The spare tire is a full-size tire, like the other tires on your vehicle. Notice: To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive the vehicle before the cable is restored.

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To release the spare tire from the secondary latch, do th

‘ng:

‘ollc

Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from the spare.

Secondary Latch System Your vehicle has an underbody mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It’s designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire must be stowed with the valve stem pointing down. See “Storing the Spare Tire and Tools” later in this section for instructions on storing the spare tire correctly.

Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed below.

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1. Check under the vehicle to see if the cable end is

visible.

2. If the cable is not visible, start this procedure at

Step 6.

3. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until

approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.

4. Connect the jack handle (C) and jack handle extension (B) together and press the retention clip (arrow) so it engages.

5. Attach the jack handle/jack handle extension to the jack and slide the ratchet with the UP mark facing you onto the end of the jack handle extension so your set-up looks like the picture above.

5-75

9. Disconnect the jack handle from the jack and

carefully remove the jack. Use one hand to push against the spare while firmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire with the other hand. If the spare tire is hanging from the cable, slide the ratchet onto the wheel wrench and insert the wheel wrench into the hoist shaft hole above the bumper and turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare the rest of the way. Be sure the DOWN mark on the ratchet is facing you.

10. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

11. If the cable is hanging under the vehicle, turn the wheel wrench in the hoist shaft hole in the bumper clockwise to raise the cable back up.

Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been repaired or replaced. To continue changing the flat tire, return to Step 4 of “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire” later in this section.

6. Place the iack under the vehicle. ahead of the rear

bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the spare tire and turn the handle clockwise to raise the jack until it lifts the secondary latch spring. Keep raising the jack until the spare tire stops moving upward and is held firmly in place, this lets you know that the secondary latch has released. The secondary latch has released and the spare tire is balancing on the jack. Lower the jack by turning the ratchet counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable.

7 .

8.

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Removing the Wheel Covers If your vehicle has plastic wheel nut caps, loosen them by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. The wheel nut caps are designed to remain with the center cap. Remove the center cap. If the wheel has a smooth center piece, place the chisel end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry it out. Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. With the DOWN side facing you, use the ratchet and wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet.

2. Assemble the jack and tools for a front or rear flat

as follows:

Front Flat: Assemble the jack (A) together with the jack handle (B) and ratchet (C) as shown. Be sure that the ratchet has the UP mark facing you.

5-77

Rear Flat: Assemble the jack (A) together with the jack handle (B), jack handle extension (C) and ratchet (D) as shown. Be sure that the ratchet has the UP mark facing you. To assemble the jack handle and jack handle extension, use the art and text following.

Connect the jack handle (B) and jack handle extension (C) together and press the retention clip (arrow) so it engages.

5-78

3. Position the jack under the vehicle as shown.

Front Position

Rear Position

5-79

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

4. Raise the vehicle by turning the ratchet clockwise.

Make sure the UP mark faces you. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

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5. Remove all the wheel nuts, and take off the flat tire.

6. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

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7. Put the wheel nuts

back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each wheel nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

e4

3e

8. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

9. Tighten the nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence

as shown. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise.

5-82

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index for wheel nut torque specification.

Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the index for the wheel nut torque specification. 10. Put the wheel cover back on, or put the center cap

and plastic wheel nut caps back on. Remove any wheel blocks.

Remember that the jack, jacking equipment and tire must be properly stored in their original storage position before you begin driving again. The next part will show you how.

5-83

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equi passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

lent in the

1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle

with the valve stem pointed down.

5-84

2. Pull the retaining bar through the center of the

wheel, making sure it is properly attached.

3. Pull the wheel toward the rear of the vehicle,

keeping the cable tight.

4. Attach the ratchet, with the UP side facing you, to

the wheel wrench.

5. Put the flat end of the wheel wrench on an angle

through the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper.

6. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the

vehicle. Continue turning the ratchet until the tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.

7. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull,

and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the ratchet to tighten the cable. You will hear two "clicks" when the tire is up all the way. Return the jacking equipment to the proper location. Secure the items and replace the jack cover.

5-85

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline Benzene Naphtha Carbon Tetrachloride Acetone Paint Thinner Turpentine Lacquer Thinner Nail Polish Remover

5-86

They can all be hazardous - some more than others - and they can all damage your vehicle, too. Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:

Alcohol Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. FabricKarpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM - approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-94. Here are some cleaning tips:

Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set.

0 Carefully scrape off any excess stain. 0 Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean

area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any

loose dirt.

2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask

surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate

the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a

sponge to remove any excess cleaner.

6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened

towel or cloth.

7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat

the area with a watedbaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry completely. 3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions

described earlier.

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Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.

Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth.

Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do this more than once. Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.

For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

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Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-94. Notice: Don't use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.

Care of Safety Belts

Do not bleach or dye safet- belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6- 17.

5-89

Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-94. If your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoatklearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoaVclearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-94. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

5-90

Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings] chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.

5-9 1

Aluminum Wheels Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner Notice: When applying a tire dressing, always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires. Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.

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Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms; blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

Finish Damage

Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials avaliable from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.

Underbody Maintenance

Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

5-93

GM Vehicle Care/A (C(

Dpearance Materials Int’d)

Description

Usage

Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner

Finish Enhancer

Swirl Remover Polish

Cleaner Wax

Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss

Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers. Removes dust, fingerprints, and surface contaminants, Spray on wipe off. Removes swirl marks, fine scratches and other light surface contamination. Removes light scratches and protects finish. Cleans, shines and protects in one easy step, no wiping necessary.

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing the following products.

GM Vehicle Care/A

lpearance Materials

Description

Usage

Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil and asphalt. Use on chrome or stainless steel. Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints.

~~~

Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish White Sidewall Tire Cleaner

Vinyl Cleaner

Glass Cleaner

5-94

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

(co nt 'd)

Wash Wax Concentrate

Spot Lifter

loth upholsterv.

GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

~~ Description

Odor Eliminator

(cont'd)

Usage

Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet.

See your General Motors parts department for these products. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on Daae 6-1 7.

5-95

Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the front passenger door frame. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:

your VIN, the model designation, paint information and a list of all production options and special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

Vehicle Identification

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.

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Electrical System

Add-on Electrical Equipment

Notice: Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-73.

Headlamp Wiring The headlamp wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in the lamp switch. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to flicker on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away. Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. Although the circuit is protected from electrical overload, overload due to heavy snow, etc., may cause wiper linkage damage. Always clear ice and heavy snow from the windshield before using the windshield wipers. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed.

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Fuses and Circuit Breakers Floor Console Fuse Block The floor console fuse block is located under the driver’s seat.

Front of Vehicle

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Auxilaryl

Fuse 22 32 33

Relays

23 24 25 Right Rear 26 27 28 29 30 31

Usage Front Park Lamp

Auxilary2 Usage Window Residual Auxiliary

Accessory Power

Defogger

Courtesy Lamp Cargo Unlock Driver Unlock Park Lamp Door Locks Pass Unlock

Circuit Breaker Usage Power Window

34

Fuse

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

Usage Spare Outside Rear View Mirror Courtesy Lamp/SEO Left Rear StopRurn Signal Cargo Locks Right Rear StopRurn Signal Driver Locks Stop/Center High Mounted Stop Lamp Climate Control 1 Climate Control Brakes Heated MirrodDefogger Right Rear Blower Driver Turn Mirror Door Locks Upfitter Park Not Available Left Rear Park Lamp Pass Turn Mirror Right Rear Park Lamp Trailer Park Lamp

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Engine Compartment Fuse Block The fuse block is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

, 48 49 50 51 52

1441 m

1411

62

5-1 00

Front of Vehicle

Fuse

10

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22