1996 GMC Savana Owners Manual

4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you‘re trailering, it‘s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

Trailer Wiring Harness The eight-wire harness, if you have one, is stored under your vehicle along the rear frame crossmember. It is wrapped and bound with a plastic strap. The harness has a 30-anlp battery feed and no connector, and you should have a qualified electrical service person wire your harness for you. Attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or strap it to your vehicle’s frame rail. Be sure you leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn’t bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged. The five-wire harness, if you have one, is stored inside the vehicle at the passenger side rear corner, behind the jack. This should be wired by a qualified electrical service person. It must be routed out of your vehicle between the rear door and the floor, with enough of the harness left on both sides so that the trailer or the body won’t pull it. Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged.

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NOTES

4-3s

NOTES

NOTES

4-40

Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road. Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off. But they won’t flash if you’re braking.

Push the button at the top of the steering column all the way down to make your front and rear turn signals flash on and off.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.

5-1

1

’

To turn off the flashers, push the button until the first ‘click and release. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals- won’t work. Other Warning Devices U? you carry reflective triangles, you can use them to warn others. Set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please use the following steps listed to do it safely.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: 0 They contain acid that can burn you. 0 They contain gas that can explode or ignite. 0 They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you don’t follow these steps exa’ctly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE:

I I If’the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a

negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

If you have a diesel engine vehicle with two batteries (or more) you should know before you begin that, ,especially in cold weather, you may not be able to get enough power from a single battery in another vehicle to start your diesel engine.

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If your vehicle has more than one battery, use the battery that is under the hood of the vehicle -- this will reduce the electrical resistance.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL (N).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all

lamps that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries, and could save your radio!

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

A CA

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery (or batteries) has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the Delco Freedom@ battery (or batteries) installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5-3

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you will get a short that would darr ;e t‘ battery and maybe other parts, too.

A .CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engines are running.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

5-4

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery‘s negative (-) terminal.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. 9. Make your last connection away from the battery, to the engine block, frame or other metal parts of your vehicle.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

1 I . Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

5-5

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have your GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow it without damage. See “Roadside Assistance” in your Index. If your vehicle has been changed since it was factory-new, by adding things like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these things could be damaged during towing. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle has rear wheel drive. The make, model and year of your vehicle. Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission. If there was an accident, what was damaged.

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

A. Engine Block, Frame, Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

5-6

A CAUTION:

To help avoid injury to you or others:

Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is being towed. Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds. Never tow with damaged parts not fully secured. Never get under your vehicle after it has been lifted by the tow truck. Always use separate safety chains on each side when towing a vehicle.

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key’off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmission should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake should be released.

A CAUTION:

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t adequately secured. This can cause a collision, serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or steel cables before it is transported. Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed vehicle.

5-7

FroF Towing A towlng dolly must be used under the drive wheels when towing from the front. Tow Limits -- 35 mph (56 k h ) , SO miles (80 km)

NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the front bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle or wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.

5-8

Rear Towing

NOTICE:

Do not tow the vehicle from the rear with loads approaching rated GVW as the weight transfer will cause the front suspension to become overloaded.

NOTICE:

Do not tow with the sling-type equipment or the rear bumper will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.

5-9

Engine Overheating (Gasoline Engine) You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle instrument panel. If you have a diesel engine, you will also find a low coolant light on your instrument panel. If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Overheating” in the GM Diesel Engine Supplement. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

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A CAUTION:

& 3 p h ; 1 -:.e

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before opening the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

I NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades’’ in the Index. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- DRIVE (D).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to push the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, tLtrn off the engine a t z d get everyone out ofthe vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

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’ Cooling System

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Engine Fan(s)

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’

A CAUTIO1 . .

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

I NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

~~

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50150 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and DEX-COOL (orange-colored, silicate-free) antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.)

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL TM antifreeze.

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I NOTICE:

I A CAUTION:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mix.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

5-14

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the pressure

cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high

speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

1.

You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-16

3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base

of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the mJLL

COLD mark.

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5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

.,

. k.

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan.

7. By this time the coolant level inside the radiator

filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

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-

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing andor high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch partially disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.

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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the st.eering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

Your spare tire is stored underneath the rear of your vehicle. You will use the ratchet and extension to lower the spare tire.

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If you have a vehicle which was completed from a cab and chassis, refer to the information from the body supplier/installer. The spare tire is a full size tire, like the other tires on your vehicle.

For cargo vans, the jack is secured in the rear passenger side corner of the vehicle.

Remove the retaining wing bolt and lift it off the mounting bracket. Set the jack and jacking equipment near the flat tire.

NOTICE:

Never remove or restore a tire frodto a stowage is position under the vehicle while the vehicle supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle when restowing

A flat rear tire reduces clearance to remove the spare tire. If there is less than 12 inches (30.48 cm) between the ground and the rear bumper or any trailer hitch, jack up the vehicle until the flat tire is off the ground. (See “Removing the Flat Tire” and “Installing the Spare Tire,” Steps 4 through 8, in this section.) Unless your vehicle has a flat rear tire, do not remove or restore a tire from/to a stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle when restowing.

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5-23

inside of the wheel and pull the spare tire out from under the vehicle. When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening.

Attach the ratchet, with the DOWN side facing you, to the extension. The extension has a socket end and a flat chisel end. Put the flat end of the extension on an angle through the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper. Be sure the flat end connects into the hoist shaft. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. If you are changing a flat rear tire and the vehicle is already jacked up, use the jack handle and extension to hook the cable. Then pull the spare from beneath the vehicle. If the retainer pulls out, hook the

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NOTICE:

To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive vehicle before the cable is restored.

J

.. . . -.., .- - . . . . ..

.. . - .

7aasr

Jacking Tool Storage A. Socket B. Jack Handle C. Ratchet D. Jacking Tool Storage Box c. Jack Handle Extension

. .. The tools you'll be using include the jack (A), jack handle extension (B), jack handle (C), socket (D) and the ratchet (E).

5-25

Removing the Wheel Covers and Locking Wheel P

I . You will need to take oft' the wheel nut caps t o reach

your wheel nuts.

2. Loosen the plastic nut caps with the ratchet and socket and remove them. Make sure the DOWN side faces you.

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3. Remove the center cap.

le F1;

ire and Installing the

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3. Rotate the ratchet clockwise. That will raise the jack

lift head a little,

2. The jack has a bolt on the end. Attach the socket end

of the extension to the jack bolt. Attach the ratchet to the extension with the UP side facing you.

Front Position

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4. Position jack under the

vehicle as shown.

Rear Positio~

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

5. Raise the vehicle by rotating the ratchet clockwise. Make sure the UP mark faces you. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

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6. Remove all the wheel nuts, and take off the flat tire.

I A C it 'ION: -

7. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come' off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel use a scraper or wire to do this; but be,sure to brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

~~

A CAUTION:

Never use oil or g;,ase on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

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8. Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each wheel nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

10. Tighten the nuts firmly

in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Rotate the wheel wrench clockwise.

9. Lower the vehicle by rotating thejack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

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A CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightenea wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop, somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 122 lb-ft (165 N-m).

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper' torque specification.

11. Put the wheel cover back on, if you have one.

Remove any wheel blocks.' Remember that the jack, jacking equipment and tire must be properly stored in their original storage position before you begin driving again. The next part will show you how.

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Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

I . Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle,

with the valve stem pointed down.

2. Pull the retaining bar through the center of the

wheel, making sure it is properly attached.

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3. Pull the wheel toward the rear of the vehicle keep the

cable tight.

4. Attach the ratchet, with the UP side facing you, to

the extension.

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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as ”rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 kmh) as shown on the speedometer.

5-35

5. Put the flat end of the extension on an angle through

the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper. Turn the ratchet clockwise until the tire is against the underside of the vehicle. You will hear two “clicks” when the tire is up all the way. Try to move the tire with your hands to make sure it is securely in place.

Return the jacking equipment to the proper location. Secure the items and replace the jack cover.

NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see ”Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

5-36

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care. Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you'll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You'll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you'll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you'll want to get the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see "Service and Owner Publications" in the Index.

6- 1

Your vehicle may have an air bag system. If it does, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index before attempting to do your own service work. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. Be sure you have suffkient knowledge, experience, and the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

0 Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

6-2

Fuel (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System” in the Diesel Engine Supplement. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this. Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane,or higher. At a minimum, it should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. ,That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

If your vehicle is certified t o meet California Emission Standards (inciicatecl on the underhood tune-up label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available i n states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications. but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on Y ~ L I I ' instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this OCCLII-S, return to YOLK authorized GM dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. I n the event it is cletermined that the c a ~ ~ s e may not be covered by your warranty. I n Canada, some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive crdled MMT. I F you L I S ~ such f~~els. your emission control system performance may deteriorate and the malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. I f this happens, return to YOLII' authorized GM dealer for service.

of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs

To provide cleaner air, a l l gasolines are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming i n your engine and fuel system. allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. I n addition, gasolines containing oxygenates. such as ethers and ethanol, and reforn~~lated gasolines may be available i n your area to help clean the air. General Motors recmnlnends that you use these gasolines ilthey comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don't use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn't be covered under your warranty.

6-3

Fuels in Foreign Countries -- Gasoline Engines If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation, North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L 1 H 8P7

6-4

Filling Your Tank

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the- Outside of Your Vehicle” in.the Index.

6-5

Checking Things Under the Hood

To open the hood, first pull this handle inside the vehicle. It is just in front of the driver’s side door frame near the floor.

When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear at least three clicks. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate int.0 the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

I NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

6-6

Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.

Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood hinge. The underhood lamp will autolnatically come on and stay on until the hood is closed.

6-7

When you lift the hood, ~011’11 see these items:

A. Battery B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Engine Oil Dipstick D. Engine Oil Fill E. Transmission Dipstick

F. Air Cleaner G. Power Steering Reservoir H. Brake Master Cylinder I. Windshield Washer Fluid

If your vehicle has a 7.4L engine and air conditioning, your vehicle will have a auxiliary engine fan in addition to the belt driven fdn.

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary engine fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then just let the hood down and close it firmly. Noise Control System The following information relates to compliance with Federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 lbs. (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule booklet provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your Warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States.

6-9

Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof: 1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person,

other than for purposes of maint,enance, repair or replacement, of any device 01- element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purclwser or while it is i n use; or

2. The use of the vehicle after S L I C ~ device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. insulation: 0 Removal o f noise shields or underhood insulation.

Engine:

Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if so equipped) inoperative so a s to allow engine speed to exceed manufrtctureer specifications.

Fan and Drive:

Removal of fan clutch (if so equipped) or rendering clutch inoperative.

0 Removal of fan shroud (if so equipped). Air Intake:

0 Reversing air cleaner cover. Exhaust:

6-10

Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Oil (Diesel Engine)” in the Diesel Engine Supplement. It‘s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you c‘ Get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

When to Add Oil If the o i l is at or below the ADD mark, then ~011’11 need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” i n the Index.

NOTICE:

Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back i n all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

What Kind of Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the ”Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

The engine oil filler cap is located between the air cleaner and engine oil dipstick. Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

6-12

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

LOOK FOR THIS SYMBOL

HOT

WEATHER

1 +27 +38

COLD

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE ]OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (- 18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines LcStarbur~t” symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. Engine Oil Additives Don‘t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

6-13

What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer'? Don't let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer's warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don't ever dispose of oil by putting it i n the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas. You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles ( 5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (1 2 SO0 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warnled engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower.

6-14

Air Cleaner

Refer t o the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter and crankcase ventilation filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’‘ in the Index.

,.?

To remove the air cleaner filter:

loosen screw bolt to air induct hose

0 remove the three bolts

remove the f ~ d l air cleaner housing unsnap the three clips

Then tilt the top cover up and back to expose the filter element. Install a new filter element with the folds i n the down position. See “Normal Replacement Parts” for the proper filter to use.

Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.

1 NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

6-15

~

’

n to Check and Change

Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: 0 In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.

0 In hilly or mountainous terrain. 0 When doing frequent trailer towing. 0 Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” i n the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).

At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). --- -king "ran:- - - - . .ion Fluid Hot bet the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.

Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (IOOC), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you 17zusr perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level. Checking the Fluid Hot or Cold

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

0 Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

6-17

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1.

2.

Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

6-18

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add tluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint (0.5 L). DOLJ ’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under ”How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in a l l the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

6-19

NOTICE:

When adding coolant it is important that you use DEX-COOL TM (orange-colored, silicate-free) coolant meeting GM Specification 6277M. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator coolant will require change sooner -- at corrosion may result. In addition, the engine 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with new DEX-COOL TM (orange-colored, silicate-free) engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 100,000 miles (166 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of water and the proper coolant for your vehicle will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265 “F ( 129 O C).

0 Protect against rust and corrosion.

Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

6-20

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half DEX-COOL TM (orange-colored, silicate-free) antifreeze that meets GM Specification 6277M, which won’t damage aluminum parts. Use GM Engine Coolant Supplement (sealer) (GM Part No. 3634621) with any complete coolant change. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL TM (orange-colored, silicate-free) antifreeze.

6-21

NOTICE:

~~

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

I NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Checking Coolant

When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD, or a little higher.

6-22

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix ut the coolcrnt mcoveq* t m k .

A CAUTION:

Tbrning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mix at the recovery tank. but be careful n o t to spill it.

A CAUTION:

You can be burned if' you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engine.

Radiator Pressure Cap The radiator pressure cap nust be tightly installed with the arrows on the cap lined up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a pressure-type cap and loss must be tightly installed to prevent coolant and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

6-23

Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine cooling system. The thermoskt stops the tlow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended. Power Steering Fluid

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering tluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. To prevent brake fluid contamination, never check or fill the power steering reservoir with the master cylinder cover off. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

6-25

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level i n the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid 2 wes down t o an acceptable level during nonnal brake lining wear. When new linings are put i n , thc tluid levcl

6-26

c qoes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won't work well, or won't work at all. So, it isn't a good idea t o "top off' your brake tluid. Adding brake fluid won't correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you'll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

A CAUTION

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See "Periodic Maintenance Inspections" i n the Index.

Checking Brake Fluid

What to I When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme 11 No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.

(GM Part

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the windows on the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid levels should be above MIN. If they aren’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the levels are above MIN and below the top of each window.

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

6-27

NOTICE:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

I NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

6-28

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Free movement of brake calipers and properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake calipers for movement, brake pads for wear, and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.

:a1

Pedal Travel

see your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.

6-29

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your vehicle does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Every new vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recolnmend a Delco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

6-30

Halwen Bulbs

A CAUTIO

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Headlamps You have either a sealed beam ‘headlamp system or a composite system.

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see ”Theft-Deterrent Feature’’ in the Index. Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the index for the proper types of bulbs to use.

6-31

Sealed Beam Headlamps

1. Remove the four screws from the headlamp retainer.

Pull the retainer out and set it aside.

2. Unplug the lamp assembly from the connector. 3. Install a new headlamp. 4. Reverse Steps 2 through 3 to reinstall the headlamp.

6-32

Composite Headlamps 1. Open the hood. 2. Locate the rear side of each of the headlamps.

3. Without removing the headlamp assembly itself, remove the bulb assembly from the back of the headlamp on the driver’s side by turning the bulb counterclockwise one quarter turn.

4. On the passenger side, turn the bulb clockwise

one-quarter turn. Also, to remove the bulb on the passenger side, you will need t o move the battery.

5. Install a new bulb. Do not handle the glass part of

the bulb.

6. Reverse Steps 3 through 4 to reinstall the headlamp.

6-33

Trent Parkinglnrn Signal Lamps To replace the front parking/turn signal lamps:

2. Remove the lamp from the grille.

1. Remove the outer screws from the parking/turn

signal lamp lens assembly. (There are either two or four screws, depending on your vehicle’s trim level.)

6-34

Sidemarker Lamps

I . Remove the screw from the top o f the lens.

6-35

Taillamps 1. Open the rear door.

2. Un-clip the bottom of the lamp from the grille. 3. Remove the bulb by twisting it out of the socket. Turn the bulb to remove it. Install the new bulb.

4. Reverse these steps to reinstall the lamp.

2. Push the socket protector until you can see

the fasteners.

6-36

1

3. Remove the nuts with a deep socket wrench.

4. Remove the hidden upper nuts.

6-37

5. Lift the lamp as you rotate it toward the rear of the vehicle.

6. Turn the sockets to the left to remove.

6-38

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement

7. With the door open, turn the bulb to the left to

remove it. Install the new bulb.

8. Reverse the above steps to reinstall the lamp.

See “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index for the proper type of replacement blade.

6-39

Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. To remove the type with a release clip: 1.

To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical position. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook. Remove the insert .from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

2.

3.

4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the notched end last, into the end with two blade claws. Slide all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end. 5 . Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.

6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm

hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly

into the windshield.

6-40

Tires We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details.

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle’’ in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAU’ ON: (Continued)

Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. cut, punctured or broken by a sudden Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or been damaged, replace them.

if your tires have

6-41

Inflation -- Tire Pressure

label, which is on the rear edge of

The Certification/Til-e-~ the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no 1mre than 1 mile (1.6 ktn).

I NOTICE:

(Continued)

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: 0 Too much flexing

Too much heat

0 Tire overloading

Bad wear

0 Bad handling

Bad fuel economy.

NOTICE: (Continued)

6-42

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: 0 Unusual wear 0 Bad handling 0 Rough ride 0 Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure o f the spare tire.

Haw to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if yom tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

nspectior

1 Ires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles ( I 0 000 to 13 000 km) for any signs of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, also see “Dual Tire Operation“ later in this section. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

FRT

FRT

KC

If your vehicle has single rear wheels, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires.

If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, always use one of the. correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires. When you install dual wheels, be sure the vent holes in the inner and outer wheels on each side are lined up. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the CertificatidTire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

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A CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the

Index.)

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When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: 0 You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

0 You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

0 The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fdbric.

0 The tire has a bump, bulge or split.

The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Dual Tire Operation When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles ( 160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index. The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically. If you’re going to be doing a lot of driving on high-crown roads, you can reduce tire wear by adding 5 psi (35 kPa) to the tire pressure in the outer tires. Be sure to return to the recommended pressures when no longer driving under those conditions. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

A CAUTION:

If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is badly underinflated, the tire can overheat. An overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including the spare) are properly inflated.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

A CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these