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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you:


start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt(s), cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


4-55


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Trailer Wiring Harness


Your vehicle may be equipped with the seven-wire trailer towing harness. This harness has a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector (if equipped with the trailering package) that is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform. If your vehicle is not equipped with the heavy-duty trailer connector, you may purchase one from your dealer.


4-56


The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:127) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Brown: Running Lamps (cid:127) White: Ground


Light Green: Back-up Lamps


(cid:127) Red: Battery Feed (cid:127) Dark Blue: Electric Brakes If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is available from your dealer. If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, turn on the headlamps to boost the vehicle system voltage and properly charge the battery. Your vehicle may also be equipped with wiring for an electric trailer brake controller. These wires are located inside the vehicle on the driver’s side under the instrument panel. These wires should be connected to an electric trailer brake controller by your dealer or a qualified service center.


(cid:127) Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of


Your Vehicle ..............................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-6
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-6
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-7
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-16
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-19
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-21
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-23
Engine Coolant .............................................5-26
Radiator Pressure Cap ..................................5-28
Engine Overheating .......................................5-28
Cooling System ............................................5-30


Engine Fan Noise .........................................5-35
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-36
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-37
Brakes ........................................................5-38
Battery ........................................................5-41
Jump Starting ...............................................5-42
Rear Axle .......................................................5-46
Four-Wheel Drive ............................................5-47
Front Axle ......................................................5-48
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-49
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-49
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-49
Headlamps ..................................................5-50
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and


Parking Lamps ..........................................5-51
Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps ............5-51
Back-Up Lamps ............................................5-53
License Plate Lamp ......................................5-53
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-54
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-54
Tires ..............................................................5-57
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-58
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-61
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-64


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


High-Speed Operation ...................................5-66
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-67
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-69
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-72
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-73
Buying New Tires .........................................5-74
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-76
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-77
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-78
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-78
Tire Chains ..................................................5-80
Accessory Inflator .........................................5-80
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-81
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-82
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-84
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the


Spare Tire ................................................5-87
Secondary Latch System ...............................5-92
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-96
Spare Tire ...................................................5-99
Appearance Care ..........................................5-100
Interior Cleaning .........................................5-100
Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-101
Leather ......................................................5-102
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other


Plastic Surfaces .......................................5-102


5-2


Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-103
Weatherstrips .............................................5-103
Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-103
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-104
Finish Care ................................................5-104
Windshield, Backglass, and Wiper Blades .......5-105
Aluminum Wheels .......................................5-105
Tires .........................................................5-106
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-106
Finish Damage ...........................................5-106
Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-106
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-106
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ................5-107
Vehicle Identification .....................................5-108
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................5-108
Service Parts Identification Label ...................5-108
Electrical System ..........................................5-109
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-109
Headlamps .................................................5-109
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-109
Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-109
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-110
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................5-110
Rear Underseat Fuse Block ..........................5-116
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-120


Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-66.


5-3


Doing Your Own Service Work


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and


other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless entry transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.


5-4


If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-66. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.


5-5


Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511
in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-7 for additional information.


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-41. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty.


5-6


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.


Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


5-7


Filling the Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


5-8


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.


{CAUTION:


Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-103. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-41.


There may also be a light that comes on in the instrument panel to let you know if your gas cap is not properly installed. See Check Gas Cap Light on page 3-49 for more information.


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-41.


5-9


Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense fuel only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:127) Do not use a cellular phone while


pumping fuel.


5-10


Hood Release


1. To open the hood, first pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle under the instrument panel on the driver’s side.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the


secondary hood release.


3. Lift the hood, release the prop rod from its retainer


and put the prop rod into the slot in the hood.


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the prop rod. Remove the prop rod from its slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) above the vehicle and release it to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 4.2L L6 engine, here is what you will see:


5-12


A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.


G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap


on page 5-28.


B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-30.


C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-37.


D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-36.


E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of View).


See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-23.


F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-16.


H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-16.


I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).


See Jump Starting on page 5-42.


J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-38.


K. Battery. See Battery on page 5-41. L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine


Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-110.


5-13


When you open the hood on the 5.3L V8 engine, here is what you will see:


5-14


A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-30.


B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.


C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-37.


D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-16.


E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-23.


F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-16.


G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap


on page 5-28.


H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).


See Jump Starting on page 5-42.


I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-36.


J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-38.


K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine


Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-110.


L. Battery. See Battery on page 5-41.


5-15


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


When to Add Engine Oil


L6 Engine


V8 Engine


5-16


If the oil is below the L mark for the L6 engine or the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick for the V8 engine, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-120. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area (F) that shows the proper operating range for the L6 engine or above the cross-hatched area for the V8 engine, the engine could be damaged.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


5-17


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use


Look for three things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


(cid:127) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol


Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


5-18


Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light will come on, and, if your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. See the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km).


5-19


To reset the Engine Oil Life System: 1. Turn the ignition key to ON/RUN with the


engine off.


2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly


three times within five seconds. The change engine oil light will flash while the system is resetting.


3. When the light stops flashing, turn the key to


LOCK/OFF.


If the light/message comes back on when you start the vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.


It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a change engine oil light or CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system.


5-20


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.


When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.


5-21


How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws on the engine air cleaner/filter


and lift off the cover.


2. Remove the air cleaner/filter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.


3. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 4. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


5-22


Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.


Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


(cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.


5-23


(cid:127) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running.


2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).


4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: 1. Flip the handle up and then remove the dipstick


and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.


The automatic transmission dipstick handle with this symbol on it is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.


2. Reinstall it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. If the dipstick does not go down the tube easily, turn the blade and try again until it is fully inserted in the tube.


5-24


How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. (cid:127) After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.


(cid:127) When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


5-25


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower


level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, reinstall the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


Consistency of Readings Always check the fluid level at least twice using the procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper fluid level. If inconsistent readings persist, contact your dealer/retailer.


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-28. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature.


Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-26


(cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information.


If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives


Checking Coolant


The engine coolant recovery tank is in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. The cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD, or a little higher.


5-27


Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-30.


If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,


Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for information on location.


Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-40 for more information. If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the display will show an Engine Coolant Hot/Engine Overheated message. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


5-28


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


If your engine catches fire because you


Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the windows as necessary.


5-29


(cid:127) (cid:127) Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


5.3L V8 Engine shown, 4.2L L6 Engine similar


A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan Do not do anything if the engine coolant is boiling. Wait until it cools down. Park vehicle on a level surface.


5-30


The coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.


If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


5-31


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


5-32


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when


the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap. Remove the


pressure cap.


5-33


3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®


coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the FULL


COLD mark.


5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but


leave the radiator pressure cap off.


5-34


Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.


5-35


6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the


upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.


7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during


this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


Power Steering Fluid


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment


cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on


the dipstick.


For vehicles with the 4.2L L6 engine, the level should be at the C (Cold) mark. For vehicles with the 5.3L V8
engine, the level should be at the FULL mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage your vehicle and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


5-36


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow


the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.


5-37


(cid:127) It is not a good idea to top off the brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


Brakes Brake Fluid


The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake hydraulic system. If it is, you should have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.


5-38


Checking Brake Fluid The brake fluid can be checked without taking off the cap by looking at the brake fluid reservoir.


{CAUTION:


The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak.


With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN, but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-103.


5-39


(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 5-120. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear.


5-40


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


Vehicle Storage


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-42 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.


5-41


Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


5-42


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Your vehicle cannot be started by pushing or pulling it, and can be damage by trying it. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL.


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets, if equipped. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help to save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


4. Open both hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on each battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use this remote terminal instead of the terminal on the battery. The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the front engine lift bracket on vehicles with the 4.2L L6 engine or the engine accessory drive bracket for vehicles with the 5.3L V8 engine, and is marked GND (Ground). See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


5-43


{CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


5-44


6. Connect the red


positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal, marked GND, for this purpose.


4.2L L6 Engine 5.3L V8 Engine The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the front engine lift bracket for the 4.2L L6 engine, and on the accessory drive bracket for the 5.3L V8 engine.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


5-45


If the jumper cables are connected or


Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


Disconnect the jumper cables in reverse order that they were installed. Do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote


Negative (−) Terminal


B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote


Negative (−) Terminals


C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


5-46


How to Check Lubricant


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level is from 0 to 0.40 inch (0 to 10 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


Four-Wheel Drive Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug.


5-47


How to Check Lubricant


What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Front Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 0.50 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


5-48


What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If the headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommended that you take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer for service.


Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-54. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


5-49


Headlamps To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the hood. Hood Release on page 5-11 for


more information.


2. Lift the two headlamp retaining clips.


4. Remove the cover from the headlamp bulb. 5. Remove the bulb socket that needs to be replaced


by turning it counterclockwise.


6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the


old bulb.


7. Plug the electrical connector into the new bulb


using care not to touch the glass with your fingers.


8. Install the new bulb into the socket and turn it


clockwise to secure.


9. Reinstall by reversing Steps 1 through 6. 10. Press down on the headlamp retaining clips to


secure the headlamp assembly.


3. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle


to access the electrical connectors.


5-50


Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Follow Steps 1 through 3 under Headlamps on


page 5-50 to access the front turn signal, sidemarker or parking lamp.


2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove


it from the lamp assembly.


3. Holding the socket, pull the old bulb to release it


from the socket.


4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 5. Insert the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and


turn it clockwise to secure.


6. Reinstall the headlamp assembly by lining up the


headlamp assembly with the slots in the headlamp retaining clips.


7. Press down on the headlamp retaining clips to


secure the headlamp assembly.


Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps To replace a stoplamp/taillamp or turn signal bulb: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate/Liftglass on


page 2-12 for more information.


2. Remove the


two screws from the taillamp assembly.


3. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle.


5-51


5. Remove the socket plate. 6. Holding the socket, pull the bulb to release it from


the socket.


7. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 8. Reinstall the socket plate and tighten the


three screws.


9. Reconnect the wiring harness. 10. Reinstall the taillamp assembly by lining up the locator pins with the retainers in the body of the vehicle.


11. Reinstall the two screws and tighten. 12. Close the liftgate.


4. Unclip the wiring harness (A) and remove the


three socket retaining screws (B).


5-52


Back-Up Lamps


The back-up lamps are located in the rear bumper. To replace a bulb:


License Plate Lamp 1. Remove the two screws holding the license plate


lamp lens.


1. Reach behind the rear bumper and locate the bulb


socket.


2. Turn it counterclockwise to remove from the lamp


assembly.


3. Holding the socket, pull the old bulb to release it


from the socket.


4. Push in a new bulb into the bulb socket until it


clicks.


5. Reinstall the bulb socket into the lamp assembly


and turn it clockwise to secure.


2. Pull the lens away from the lamp assembly. 3. Pull the old bulb straight out from the bulb socket. 4. Install the new bulb. 5. Replace the lamp assembly lens and tighten the


screws.


5-53


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp


Bulb Number


Back-up Lamps/Rear Turn Signal Lamp, Stoplamp, and Taillamp


Front Sidemarker Lamps


Front Turn Signal Lamps


License Plate Lamp


High-Beam Headlamps


Low-Beam Headlamps


3157


194


3457


W5W


9005 HB3


9006 HB4


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not


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be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm


until it locks into a vertical position.


A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab 2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking


D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook


tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.


3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.


4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D),


notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.


5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.


A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation


6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook.


Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.


7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly


onto the windshield.


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Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement


3. Rotate the wiper blade assembly, and pull it off of the wiper arm. Hold the wiper arm in position and push the blade away from the wiper arm.


1. Lift the wiper blade assembly up and out of the


park rest position.


2. Pull the wiper blade assembly away from the backglass. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle.


4. Replace the wiper blade. 5. Return the wiper blade assembly to the park rest


position.


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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details.


{CAUTION:


(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly


used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same


danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely


to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.


If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


See High-Speed Operation on page 5-66
for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.


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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustration is an example of a typical P-Metric tire sidewall.


If your vehicle has low-profile tires,


Low-Profile Performance Tire If your vehicle has P255/50R20 size tires, they are classified as low-profile performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-profile performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire


(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-77. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64
and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34.


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Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the passenger (P-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


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Tire Terminology and Definitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34.


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GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.


Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.


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Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64
and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-34. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-73.


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