2007 GMC Acadia Owners Manual

StabiliTrak® System Your vehicle has the StabiliTrak® system which combines antilock brake, traction and stability control systems and helps the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle in most driving conditions. When you first start your vehicle and begin to drive away, the system performs several diagnostic checks to ensure there are no problems. You may hear or feel the system working. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with your vehicle. The system should initialize before the vehicle reaches 20 mph (32 km/h). In some cases, it may take approximately two miles of driving before the system initializes. If the system fails to turn on or activate, the StabiliTrak® light along with one of the following messages will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC): TRACTION CONTROL OFF, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK. If you see these conditions, turn the vehicle off, wait 15 seconds, and then turn it back on again to reset the system.

If any of these messages still appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC), your vehicle should be taken in for service. For more information on the DIC messages, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 232.

The StabiliTrak® light will flash on the instrument panel cluster when the system is both on and activated.

You may also feel or hear the system working; this is normal.

The traction control disable button is located on the instrument panel below the climate controls.

The traction control part of StabiliTrak® can be turned off by pressing and releasing the traction control disable button.

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Traction control can be turned on by pressing and releasing the traction control disable button if not automatically shut off for any other reason. When the traction control system is turned off, the StabiliTrak® light and the appropriate traction control off message will be displayed on the DIC to warn the driver. Your vehicle will still have brake-traction control when traction control is off, but will not be able to use the engine speed management system. See “Traction Control Operation” next for more information. When the traction control system has been turned off, you may still hear system noises as a result of the brake-traction control coming on. It is recommended to leave the system on for normal driving conditions, but it may be necessary to turn the system off if your vehicle is stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, and you want to “rock” your vehicle to attempt to free it. It may also be necessary to turn off the system when driving in extreme off-road conditions where high wheel spin is required. See If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 360.

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Traction Control Operation The traction control system is part of the StabiliTrak® system. Traction control limits wheel spin by reducing engine power to the wheels (engine speed management) and by applying brakes to each individual wheel (brake-traction control) as necessary. The traction control system is enabled automatically when you start your vehicle. It will activate and the StabiliTrak® light will flash if it senses that any of the wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction while driving. If you turn off traction control, only the brake-traction control portion of traction control will work. The engine speed management will be disabled. In this mode, engine power is not reduced automatically and the driven wheels can spin more freely. This can cause the brake-traction control to activate constantly. Notice: to spin excessively while the StabiliTrak®, ABS and brake warning lights and the SERVICE STABILITRAK message are displayed, you could damage the transfer case. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Reduce engine power and do not spin the wheel(s) excessively while these lights and this message are displayed.

If you allow the wheel(s) of one axle

The traction control system may activate on dry or rough roads or under conditions such as heavy acceleration while turning or abrupt upshifts/downshifts of the transmission. When this happens, you may notice a reduction in acceleration, or may hear a noise or vibration. This is normal. If your vehicle is in cruise control when the system activates, the StabiliTrak® light will flash and the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to use cruise again, you may re-engage the cruise control. See Cruise Control on page 180. StabiliTrak® may also turn off automatically if it determines that a problem exists with the system. If the problem does not clear itself after restarting the vehicle, you should see your dealer/retailer for service.

All-Wheel Drive (AWD) System If your vehicle has this feature, engine power is sent to all four wheels when extra traction is needed. This is like four-wheel drive, but there is no separate lever or switch to engage or disengage the front axle. It is fully automatic, and adjusts itself as needed for road conditions. When using a compact spare tire on your AWD equipped vehicle, the AWD system automatically detects the presence of the compact spare and the AWD is disabled. To restore the AWD operation and prevent excessive wear on the clutch in your AWD system, replace the compact spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible. See Compact Spare Tire on page 477
for more information.

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Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here is why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you will understand this.

The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems — steering and acceleration — have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. See StabiliTrak® System on page 337. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you will want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while the front wheels are straight ahead.

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Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 385. Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First, apply the brakes. See Braking on page 334. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

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Off-Road Recovery You may find that your vehicle’s right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you are driving.

in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents — the head-on collision.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing

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So here are some tips for passing: (cid:129) Drive ahead. Look down the road, to the

sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.

(cid:129) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings,

and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it is all right to pass, providing the road ahead is clear. Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.

(cid:129) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you are awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you are following a larger vehicle. Also, you will not have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.

(cid:129) When it looks like a chance to pass is coming

up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and do not get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a running start that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone is not trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) Check your vehicle’s mirrors, glance over your

shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your vehicle’s inside mirror, activate the right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. Remember that an outside convex mirror makes the vehicle you just passed seem farther away from you than it really is.

(cid:129) Try not to pass more than one vehicle

at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.

(cid:129) Do not overtake a slowly moving vehicle too

rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it might be slowing down or starting to turn. If you are being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible.

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(cid:129) While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You might not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance is longer and vehicle control more limited.

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Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving. (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the

glare from headlamps behind you.

(cid:129) Since you cannot see as well, slow down and

keep more space between you and other vehicles.

(cid:129) Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They might cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare, as from a driver who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps, slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Keep the windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that the headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as the headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it.

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you cannot stop, accelerate, or turn as well because your vehicle’s tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads.

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And, if the tires do not have much tread left, you get even less traction. It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if the windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It is wise to keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled with washer fluid. Replace windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

{CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They may not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply the brake pedal lightly until the brakes work normally.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect the brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before you hit them.

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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under the tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if the tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.

Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through the engine’s air intake and badly damage the engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly. Driving Through Flowing Water

{CAUTION:

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

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Some Other Rainy Weather Tips (cid:129) Besides slowing down, allow some extra

following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

(cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread depth.

See Tires on page 435.

City Driving One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. Watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: (cid:129) Know the best way to get to where you are

going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

(cid:129) Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross

most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 351.

(cid:129) Treat a green light as a warning signal.

A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

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Freeway Driving Mile for mile, freeways — also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on the turn signal, check the mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow.

Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check the mirrors. Then, use the turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your blind spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make sure you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to the speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you might tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.

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Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will find experienced and able service experts at dealers/retailers all across North America. They are ready and willing to help you if needed.

Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir

full? Are all windows clean inside and outside?

(cid:129) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? (cid:129) Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you

checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?

(cid:129) Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

(cid:129) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather

outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?

(cid:129) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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(cid:129) Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as highway hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen.

Then here are some tips: (cid:129) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated,

with a comfortably cool interior.

(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your vehicle’s mirrors and instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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(cid:129) If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (cid:129) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system, and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

{CAUTION:

If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

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{CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

(cid:129) Know how to go down hills. The most

important thing to know is this: let the engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

(cid:129) Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift

down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool the engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.

(cid:129) Stay in your own lane when driving on

two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

(cid:129) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

(cid:129) You may see highway signs on mountains

that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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Winter Driving

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:129) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:129) You may want to put winter emergency

supplies in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 435.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very careful.

What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. StabiliTrak® improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even with StabiliTrak®, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you might want to turn the traction control part of the StabiliTrak® System off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. See StabiliTrak® System on page 337 and If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 360.

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The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 335. (cid:129) Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

(cid:129) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: (cid:129) Turn on the hazard flashers. (cid:129) Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police

that you have been stopped by the snow.

(cid:129) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

{CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run the engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged.

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You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin the wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.

{CAUTION:

If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

Notice: Spinning the wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting the transmission back and forth, you can destroy the transmission. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 456.

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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn the traction control part of the StabiliTrak® System off. See StabiliTrak® System on page 337. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 367.

Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

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Tire and Loading Information Label

The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 435 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 442. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section.

Example Label

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar) of your vehicle. With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.

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Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of

occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver

and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.

3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.

4. The resulting figure equals the available

amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).

5. Determine the combined weight of luggage

and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.

6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load

from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle.

See Towing a Trailer on page 371 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.

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Example 1

Example 2

Item

Description

Total

Item

Description

Total

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

300 lbs (136 kg)

700 lbs (317 kg)

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

750 lbs (340 kg)

250 lbs (113 kg)

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Certification/Tire Label

Example 3

Item

Description

Total

Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

0 lbs (0 kg)

Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.

A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR).

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To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer/retailer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle.

If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.

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Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

(cid:129) Put things in the cargo area of your

vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like

suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

(cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured child

restraint in your vehicle.

(cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down

unless you need to.

Towing

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 524. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).

With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing” following in this section. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

(cid:129) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.

(cid:129) Do you have the proper towing equipment?

See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 352.

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(cid:129) Dinghy Towing If you have a front-wheel-drive vehicle, it can be dinghy towed from the front. These vehicles may also be towed by putting the front wheels on a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” later in this section. If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, it can be dinghy towed from the front. You can also tow these vehicles by placing them on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground. These vehicles cannot be towed using a dolly. For vehicles being dinghy towed, the vehicle should be run at the beginning of each day and at each RV fuel stop for about five minutes. This will ensure proper lubrication of transmission components. Put the IGN (Ignition) fuse in to start the vehicle.

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To tow your vehicle from the front with all four wheels on the ground: 1. Position the vehicle to tow and then secure it. 2. Turn the ignition to OFF. 3. Set the parking brake. 4. To prevent your battery from draining while the vehicle is being towed, remove the IGN (Ignition) fuse from the underhood fuse block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 493.

5. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY.

If you tow your vehicle without

6. Shift your transmission to NEUTRAL (N). 7. Release the parking brake. Notice: performing each of the steps listed under “Dinghy Towing,” you could damage the automatic transmission. Be sure to follow all steps of the dinghy towing procedure prior to and after towing your vehicle. Notice: towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing your vehicle. Once you have reached your destination, do the following: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition key to OFF and remove the

If you exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while

key from the ignition.

3. Reinstall the IGN (Ignition) fuse. Notice: Don’t tow a vehicle with the front drive wheels on the ground if one of the front tires is a compact spare tire. Towing with two different tire sizes on the front of the vehicle can cause severe damage to the transmission.

Dolly Towing (All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles)

All-wheel-drive vehicles must not be towed with two wheels on the ground. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off of the ground or dinghy towed from the front.

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Dolly Towing (Front-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Only)

Towing Your Vehicle From the Rear

Notice: Towing your vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Never have your vehicle towed from the rear. Do not tow your vehicle from the rear.

To tow your front-wheel-drive vehicle from the front with two wheels on the ground: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Move the shift lever to PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead

position with a clamping device designed for towing.

5. Release the parking brake.

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Towing a Trailer

{CAUTION:

If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section.

But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

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(cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

(cid:129) You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to

shift the transmission to a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). See “Tow/Haul Mode” later in this section.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires

If You Do Decide to Pull a Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:129) There are many different laws, including speed

limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

(cid:129) Consider using a sway control. You can ask a

hitch dealer/retailer about sway controls. (cid:129) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first

500 miles (805 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

(cid:129) Then, during the first 500 miles (805 km) that

you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Tow/Haul Mode Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the Tow/Haul mode is to: (cid:129) Reduce the frequency and improve the

predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

(cid:129) Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded. Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Increase the charging system voltage to assist in recharging a battery installed in a trailer. Press this button on the console to enable/disable the tow/haul mode.

A light on the instrument panel will come on to indicate that tow/haul mode has been selected.

Tow/Haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off Tow/Haul every time it is started. Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). See Weight of the Trailer later in this section. Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: (cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or

heavy load through rolling terrain.

(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or

heavy load in stop and go traffic.

(cid:129) When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy

load in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment.

The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Look in the following chart to find the maximum trailer weight for your vehicle.

Package

Front-Wheel

Drive

All-Wheel Drive

Maximum

Trailer Weight

4,500 lbs (2 041 kg) 4,500 lbs (2 041 kg)

*GCWR

9,500 lbs (4 309 kg) 9,700 lbs (4 400 kg)

*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 522 for more information.

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 361 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10-15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may also be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating).

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The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:

The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:

You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much.

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Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg).

You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification/Tire label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 361. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:129) The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

(cid:129) Will you have to make any holes in the body of

your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 138. Dirt and water can, too.

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Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If you tow more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg), use trailer brakes. Because your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, don’t try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

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Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer/retailer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

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Driving on Grades Your vehicle is designed primarily as a passenger and load carrying vehicle. If you tow a trailer, your vehicle will require more frequent maintenance due to the additional load. Because of the added load of the trailer, your vehicle’s engine may overheat on hot days, when going up a long or steep grade with a trailer. If the engine coolant temperature gage indicates overheating, turn off the air conditioning to reduce engine load, pull off the road and stop in a safe spot. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 55 mph (88 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating.

Parking on Hills

{CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift

into PARK (P). When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.

2. Have someone place chocks behind the

trailer wheels.

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3. When the chocks are in place, release the

regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your

parking brake and shift into PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes. When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal

down while you:

start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the

chocks.

4. Stop and have someone pick up and store

the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 502 for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle is equipped with the following wiring harness for towing a trailer.

Basic Trailer Wiring The trailer wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector, is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness connector can be plugged into a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector available through your dealer/retailer. The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Taillamps (cid:129) White: Ground

Light Green: Back-up Lamps

(cid:129) Red: Battery Feed* (cid:129) Dark Blue: Trailer Brake* *The fuses for these two circuits are installed in the underhood electrical center, but the wires are not connected. They should be connected by your dealer/retailer or a qualified service center. If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, press the tow/haul mode button located at the end of the shift lever. This will boost the vehicle system voltage and properly charge the battery. If the trailer is too light for tow/haul mode, you can turn on the headlamps (Non-HID only) as a second way to boost the vehicle system and charge the battery. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 410.

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(cid:129) Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Service ........................................................ 385
Accessories and Modifications ................... 385
California Proposition 65 Warning .............. 386
Doing Your Own Service Work .................. 386
Adding Equipment to the Outside

of Your Vehicle ...................................... 387
Fuel ............................................................. 387
Gasoline Octane ........................................ 388
Gasoline Specifications .............................. 388
California Fuel ........................................... 388
Additives ................................................... 389
Fuels in Foreign Countries ........................ 390
Filling the Tank ......................................... 390
Filling a Portable Fuel Container ............... 393
Checking Things Under the Hood .............. 394
Hood Release ........................................... 395
Engine Compartment Overview .................. 396
Engine Oil ................................................. 397
Engine Oil Life System .............................. 400
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ............................ 402
Automatic Transmission Fluid .................... 404
Engine Coolant .......................................... 406
Radiator Pressure Cap .............................. 410
Engine Overheating ................................... 410

Overheated Engine Protection

Operating Mode ..................................... 412
Cooling System ......................................... 413
Power Steering Fluid ................................. 419
Windshield Washer Fluid ........................... 420
Brakes ...................................................... 421
Battery ...................................................... 424
Jump Starting ............................................ 425
All-Wheel Drive ........................................... 430
Headlamp Aiming ........................................ 431
Bulb Replacement ....................................... 432
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting ..... 432
Halogen Bulbs ........................................... 432
License Plate Lamp ................................... 433
Replacement Bulbs ................................... 433
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ....... 434
Tires ............................................................ 435
Tire Sidewall Labeling ............................... 436
Tire Terminology and Definitions ............... 439
Inflation - Tire Pressure ............................. 442
Tire Pressure Monitor System ................... 444
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...................... 448
When It Is Time for New Tires .................. 450

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Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Buying New Tires ...................................... 450
Different Size Tires and Wheels ................ 452
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 453
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 454
Wheel Replacement .................................. 454
Tire Chains ............................................... 456
If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 457
Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 458
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 459
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing

the Spare Tire ....................................... 463
Secondary Latch System ........................... 468
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...... 472
Compact Spare Tire .................................. 477
Appearance Care ........................................ 478
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 478
Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 480
Leather ...................................................... 481
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other

Plastic Surfaces ..................................... 481
Care of Safety Belts .................................. 482
Weatherstrips ............................................ 482
Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 482
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 483

384

Finish Care ............................................... 483
Windshield, Backglass, and

Wiper Blades ......................................... 484

Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels

and Trim ................................................ 484
Tires ......................................................... 485
Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 486
Finish Damage .......................................... 486
Underbody Maintenance ............................ 486
Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 486
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ............ 487
Vehicle Identification .................................. 488
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ........... 488
Service Parts Identification Label ............... 488
Electrical System ........................................ 489
High Voltage Devices and Wiring .............. 489
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 489
Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 490
Power Windows and Other

Power Options ....................................... 490
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....................... 490
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..................... 490
Underhood Fuse Block .............................. 493
Capacities and Specifications .................... 497

Service Your dealer/retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer/retailer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.

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California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.

Doing Your Own Service Work

{CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient

knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

(cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,

and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

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If you want to do some of your own service work, you should use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 535. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 90. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 514.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.

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California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and your vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 226. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by your warranty.

Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. For best performance or trailer towing, you could choose to use middle grade 89 octane unleaded gasoline. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.

Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 389 for additional information.

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Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.

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Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.

Filling the Tank

{CAUTION:

Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.

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The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

To open the fuel door, push the rearward center edge in and release. The door will pop open.

To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.

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If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the TIGHTEN GAS CAP message will be displayed if the fuel cap is not properly installed.

{CAUTION:

If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to

Notice: get the right type. Your dealer/ retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 226.

{CAUTION:

Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 482. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 226.

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Filling a Portable Fuel Container

{CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

(cid:129) Dispense gasoline only into approved

containers.

(cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside

a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping

gasoline.

(cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while

pumping gasoline.

393

Checking Things Under the Hood

{CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

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Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the hood

release handle with this symbol on it. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull the hood down to close. Lower the hood until the lifting pressure of the strut is reduced. Then allow the hood to fall and latch into place under its own weight. Check to make sure the hood is closed. If the hood does not fully latch, gently push the hood down at the front and center of the hood until it is completely latched.

2. At the front of the vehicle, pull up on the

center of the hood, and push the secondary hood release to the right.

3. After you have partially lifted the hood, gas struts will automatically take over to lift and hold the hood in the fully open position.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you lift the hood, here is what you will see:

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A. Radiator Pressure Cap (Out of View).

See Radiator Pressure Cap on page 410.

B. Engine Coolant Recovery Cap. See Cooling

System on page 413.

C. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse

Block on page 493.

D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump

Starting on page 425.

E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power

Steering Fluid on page 419.

F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine

Oil” under Engine Oil on page 397.

G. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”

under Engine Oil on page 397.

H. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 404.

I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake