Fluid” under Brakes on page 421.
J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 402.
K. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir.
See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 420.
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time
you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading,
the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be
on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil
several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper
towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
397
When to Add Engine Oil
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.
If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 497. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.
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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
(cid:129) Oils meeting these
requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
Look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.
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Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M
Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. Look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.
(cid:129) SAE 5W-30
As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.
If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the
temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is
recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both provide
easier cold starting and better protection for
the engine at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended
oils with the starburst symbol that meet
GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for
good performance and engine protection.
Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.
400
If your vehicle has a DIC: 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. 2. Press the MODE button until the DIC
reads OIL LIFE LEFT/HOLD SET TO RESET.
3. Press and hold the SET button until 100% is
displayed. You will hear three chimes and the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will go off.
4. Turn the key to OFF. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. If your vehicle does not have a Driver Information Center (DIC): 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal
slowly three times within five seconds.
3. Turn the key to OFF.
If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
401
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 502 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.
What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.
402
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.
How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter (away from vehicle) to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Loosen the screws that hold the cover on. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Lift off the cover. 4. Remove the engine air cleaner/filter element
and any loose debris that may be found in the air cleaner base.
5. Inspect or replace the air filter element. 6. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the
cover and reconnect the electrical connector.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire
Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.
403
Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check the automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 504, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above
90°F (32°C).
(cid:129) At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
(cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.
404
(cid:129)
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for more information on location.
1. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean
rag or paper towel.
2. Reinstall back in all the way, wait
three seconds and then pull it back out again.
Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift
lever in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the
shift lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three to
five minutes.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission fluid dipstick cap has this symbol on it, and is located near the front of the engine compartment.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the
lower level. The fluid level must be in the crosshatched area.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range,
twist & lock dipstick cap in place.
405
How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Remove the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one half of a pint (0.25 L). Do not overfill.
Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.
4. When the correct fluid level is obtained,
twist & lock dipstick cap in place.
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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating or if you need to add coolant to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 410. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:129) Give freezing protection down to
−34°F (−37°C).
(cid:129) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:129) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.
(cid:129) Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
If you use an improper coolant
Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts.
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If you use extra inhibitors and/or
If coolant needs to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer/retailer check the cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511 for more information.
Checking Coolant
The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for more information on the location of the
coolant recovery tank.
The vehicle must be on a level surface when
checking the coolant level.
When the engine is cold, the coolant level should
be at the FULL COLD line or a little higher.
When the engine is warm, the level could be
above the FULL COLD level. The FULL COLD line
is marked on the coolant recovery tank.
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Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See Engine Overheating on page 410.
{CAUTION:
Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 413.
409
If the pressure cap is not tightly
Radiator Pressure Cap
Notice:
installed, coolant loss and possible engine
damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly
and tightly secured.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396
for more information on location.
Engine Overheating There is an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 225. Your vehicle may also have an ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE and ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE message displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 244.
If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
410
CAUTION:
(Continued)
If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 412 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.
If your engine catches fire because you
Notice:
keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can
be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not
be covered by your warranty. See Overheated
Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 412
for information on driving to a safe place in an
emergency.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:129) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic.
(cid:129) Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest
fan speed and open the windows as necessary.
3. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);
otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving — DRIVE (D) or LOW (L).
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(cid:129) If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode lets your vehicle be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, there is a significant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage indicates an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 397.
412
Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:
{CAUTION:
An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.
A. Engine Coolant Reservoir B. Radiator Pressure Cap (covered) C. Engine Cooling Fans
413
When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.
{CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
414
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant recovery tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 406 for more information.
{CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
415
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.
In cold weather, water can freeze and
Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.
416
3. Keep turning the
pressure cap slowly, and remove it.
1. To remove the panel that covers the radiator
cap, detach fasteners and lift off panel.
2. Remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.
4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®
coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler
neck. See Engine Coolant on page 406
for more information about the proper coolant
mixture.
417
5. Fill the coolant recovery tank to the FULL
COLD mark.
6. Reinstall the cap on the coolant recovery tank,
but leave the radiator pressure cap off.
7. Start the engine and let it run until you can
feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.
8. By this time, the coolant level inside the
radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck. Replace the pressure cap.
At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure to secure it tightly.
418
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering fluid
reservoir is located
toward the front of the
engine compartment
on the passenger’s side
of the vehicle. See
Engine Compartment
Overview on page 396
for reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine
compartment cool down.
2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a
clean rag.
4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the
fluid level on the dipstick.
The fluid level should be somewhere within the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
419
Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer
fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.
(cid:129) Fill the washer fluid tank only
three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in
your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.
Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When adding windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer fluid reservoir is low, a WASHER FLUID LOW ADD FLUID message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 244 for more information.
Open the cap with the
washer symbol on it.
Add washer fluid
until the tank is full. See
Engine Compartment
Overview on page 396
for reservoir location.
420
Brakes Brake Fluid
The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396 for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have the brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.
So, it is not a good idea to top off the brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when the linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If your vehicle has too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the brake warning light comes on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 222.
421
What to Add When you need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
{CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 482.
422
(cid:129) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 497. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear.
423
Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down.
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 425 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396 for battery location.
424
Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or
(cid:129) They contain enough electricity to
ignite.
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
Ignoring these steps could result in
Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a
12-volt battery with a negative ground system.
If the other vehicle’s system is not
Notice: a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper
cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL.
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Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles.
Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!
4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 396 for more information on the terminal locations.
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery (or batteries) installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
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{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
6. Connect the red
positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery.
Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
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9. Connect the other
end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move.
The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal for this purpose.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery
and run the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
If the jumper cables are connected or
Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from
the vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from
the vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
other vehicle.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or
Remote Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and
Remote Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
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How to Check Lubricant
All-Wheel Drive Be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 502.
(A) Drain Plug (B) Filler Plug
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511.
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Rear Drive Module When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 502. How to Check Lubricant
(A) Filler Plug (B) Drain Plug
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 511. Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommend that you take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer for service.
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Your vehicle may have HID headlamps. After your vehicle’s HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 433. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting
{CAUTION:
The high beam and low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer/retailer or a qualified technician service them.
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License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Remove the two screws holding each of the
license plate lamps to the liftgate trim.
3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and
pull the bulb straight out of the socket.
4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse steps 1 – 3 to reinstall the license
plate lamp.
Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamp
License Plate Lamp
Bulb Number
194
For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.
2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward
through the lift gate trim opening.
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For the proper size and type see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 512. Backglass Wiper Blade 1. Pull the wiper blade assembly away from the backglass. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle.
2. Rotate the wiper blade assembly, hold
the wiper arm in position and push the blade away from the wiper arm. 3. Replace the wiper blade. 4. Return the wiper arm and blade assembly to
the rest position on the glass.
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 502 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the
windshield.
2. Press the button in the middle of the wiper arm connector, and pull the wiper blade away from the arm connector.
3. Install the new wiper blade, and make sure the
wiper blade locks into place.
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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
(cid:129) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 361.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
CAUTION:
(Continued)
(cid:129) Underinflated tires pose the same
danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 442.
(cid:129) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
(cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.
If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.
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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example
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(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.
(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.
(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.
(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.
(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 453.
(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.
Compact Spare Tire Example
(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 477 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 457.
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(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.
(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.
(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.
(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 442.
(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.
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(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.
(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.
(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.
(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.
(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and Definitions
Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.
Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.
Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
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Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 442.
Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.
GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 361.
GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 361.
GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 361.
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Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.
Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 361.
Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.
Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.
Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 442 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 361.
Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.
Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.
Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.
Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.
Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.
Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 450.
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UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 453.
Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 361.
Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.
Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 361.
Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Too much flexing (cid:129) Too much heat (cid:129) Tire overloading (cid:129) Premature or irregular wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:129) Unusual wear (cid:129) Poor handling (cid:129) Rough ride (cid:129) Needless damage from road hazards
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A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 361. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 477.
How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
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Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, except the spare tire. TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. The TPMS is designed to alert the driver, if a low tire pressure condition exists. If your vehicle has the Driver Information Center (DIC), the driver can also check tire pressure levels using the DIC. When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning symbol located on the instrument panel cluster. If your vehicle has the DIC feature, a message to check the pressure in a specific tire also appears on the DIC display. The low tire pressure warning symbol on the instrument panel cluster and the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message on the DIC display appears at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to
the correct inflation pressure. For additional
information and details about the DIC operation
and displays see DIC Operation and Displays
(With DIC Buttons) on page 233 or DIC Operation
and Displays (Without DIC Buttons) on page 239
and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 244.
You may notice, during cooler weather conditions,
the tire pressure monitor light, located on the
instrument panel cluster, and the CHECK TIRE
PRESSURE message appears when the vehicle
is first started and then turn off as you start to drive
the vehicle. This could be an early indicator that
the tire pressures are getting low and need to
be inflated to the proper pressure.
Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should
be checked monthly when cold and inflated to
the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle
manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire
inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of
a different size than the size indicated on the
vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label,
you should determine the proper tire inflation
pressure for those tires.)
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As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated.
Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability.
Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly.
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The Tire and Loading Information label (tire information placard) shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 442. For the location of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 361. Your vehicle’s TPMS can alert you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 448 and Tires on page 435. Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle has Tire Pressure Monitors. The liquid sealant can damage the tire pressure monitor sensors.
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Resetting the TPMS Identification Codes Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you rotate your vehicle’s tires or replace one or more of the TPMS sensors, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. If increasing the tire’s air pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease air-pressure out of a tire you can use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key. You have two minutes to match the first tire/wheel position, and five minutes overall to match all four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer than two minutes to match the first tire and wheel, or more than five minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions, the matching process stops and you will need to start over.
The TPMS sensor matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON with the
engine off.
3. Using the DIC, press the vehicle information
button until the PRESS V TO RELEARN TIRE POSITIONS message displays. If your vehicle does not have the DIC buttons, press the trip odometer reset stem located on the instrument panel cluster until the RELEARN TIRE POSITIONS message displays.
4. If your vehicle has the DIC buttons, press the
set/reset button. The horn sounds twice to indicate the TPMS receiver is ready, and the TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays. If your vehicle does not have the DIC buttons, press and hold the trip odometer reset stem until the horn chirps twice and the TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message is displayed.
5. Start with the driver side front tire. The driver
side front turn signal lamp is on.
6. Remove the valve cap from the valve stem.
Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for five seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds to sound, confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position.
7. Proceed to the passenger side front tire.
The passenger side front turn signal lamp is on. Repeat the procedure in Step 6.
8. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire.
The passenger side rear turn signal lamp is on. Repeat the procedure in Step 6.
9. Proceed to the driver side rear tire. The driver
side rear turn signal lamp is on. Repeat the procedure in Step 6. Instead of a single horn chirp a double horn chirp signals the TPMS sensor has been matched to this tire and wheel position and the matching process is no longer active.
10. Turn the ignition switch to OFF. 11. Set all four tires to the recommended air
pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.
12. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.
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The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. If you replace one of the road tires with the spare, the SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM message displays on the DIC screen. This message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful
interference.
2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.
The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.
Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.
Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles
(8 000 to 13 000 km).
Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your
tires as soon as possible and check wheel
alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels.
See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 450
and Wheel Replacement on page 454 for
more information.
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The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 502.
Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 497.
When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 458.
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When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:129) You can see the indicators at three or more
places around the tire.
(cid:129) You can see cord or fabric showing through
the tire’s rubber.
(cid:129) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or
snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.
(cid:129) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:129) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage
that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
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Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 436 for additional information.
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{CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 477.
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 361, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle.
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Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this could affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as anti-lock brakes, rollover airbags, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.
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If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.
See Buying New Tires on page 450 and
Accessories and Modifications on page 385
for additional information.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis.
Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need.
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Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 458 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels
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Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision