Download PDF Manual

system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-96.


5-41


(cid:127) Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.


Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and may have rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.


5-42


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco® battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


5-43


Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-44
for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature (Non-RDS Radios) on page 3-114 or Theft-Deterrent Feature (RDS Radios) on page 3-114.


5-44


Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely. On vehicles equipped with the optional power sliding door, a low-voltage battery or replacing a battery may cause the system to become inoperative. See Power Sliding Door (PSD) on page 2-16 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity


ignite.


to burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.


To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!


5-45


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose.


The terminal is located under a tethered cap at the front of the underhood fuse block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


Squeeze the tabs and pull up on the cap to access the remote positive (+) terminal. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on your battery.


5-46


1


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


{CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)


terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


5-47


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Now connect the black


negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.


Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part, or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


5-48


9. Connect the other end


of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


If the jumper cables are removed in the


Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


5-49


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its


original position.


Jumper Cable Removal


5-50


All-Wheel Drive If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case (Power Transfer Unit) When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Carrier Assembly-Differential (Rear Drive Module) When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


5-51


Bulb Replacement For the type of bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-58. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


How to Check Lubricant


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. A fluid loss could indicate a problem; check and have it repaired, if needed. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.


5-52


Headlamps 1. Open the hood. 2. Remove the front turn signal/parking lamp


assembly. See Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps on page 5-55.


3. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle.


6. Unhook the electrical connector by lifting up the


blue tabs and pulling the bulb out.


4. Unscrew the black retainer ring that holds the bulb


assembly in place.


5. Pull the bulb assembly straight up from the lamp


housing.


7. Install the new bulb through the black retainer ring and into the electrical connector. Tighten the black retainer ring in place. Push the bulb firmly enough so that the blue tabs hook over the tab on the bulb.


5-53


8. Carefully put the bulb assembly back into the lamp housing. Be careful not to damage the bulb on the headlamp aiming bar.


9. Align the pins on the bottom of the headlamp assembly with the holes in the lamp support bracket.


10. To reinstall the front turn signal/parking lamp assembly. See Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps on page 5-55 next.


5-54


Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps 1. Open the hood.


3. Pull the front turn signal/parking lamp assembly


away from the vehicle.


2. Remove the thumbscrew attaching the front turn


signal/parking lamp assembly to the headlamp assembly.


Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp


5-55


Front Sidemarker Lamp


4. Unscrew the bulb socket from the lamp assembly


by pressing the tab while turning it counterclockwise.


5. Replace the bulb by pulling the old one out and


gently pushing the new one into the lamp socket.


6. Line up the tabs on the socket with the gaps in the


socket holes and screw the bulb socket back into the lamp housing until a click is heard (the tab popping back out).


7. To reinstall the lamp assembly, line up and insert


the tabs on the back of the assembly in the slots in the fender. Engage the lower clip on the back of the lamp assembly into the fender, keeping the upper tab on the front turn signal/parking lamp assembly inboard of the headlamp bracket tab.


8. To align the front turn signal/parking lamp assembly


with the headlamp assembly, lift up the front turn signal/parking lamp assembly until the upper edge is contacting the fender.


9. Fasten the front turn signal/parking lamp assembly


to the headlamp assembly with the thumbscrew removed in Step 2.


5-56


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps 1. Open the liftgate. 2. Remove the two screws from the taillamp housing


on the inboard side.


3. Pull off the entire taillamp housing.


The locator/retaining pins on the outboard side are part of the lamp assembly and will remain intact during removal.


4. Remove the bulb holder by pressing the four


retaining tabs and pulling the holder away from the assembly.


5-57


Replacement Bulbs For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer.


Lamp


Bulb Number


Back-up Lamps (3rd from Top) Front Sidemarker Lamps Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamps Headlamps Stop/Taillamps (Top) Taillamps (Bottom) Turn Signal Lamps (2nd from Top)


3156
194


4157 NAK 9004-HBI


3057
3057


3156


A. Taillamp Bulb B. Back-Up Lamp Bulb C. Turn Signal Lamp Bulb D. Stop/Taillamp Bulb


5. Replace the bulb by pulling the old bulb out and gently pushing the new bulb into the bulb holder socket.


6. Snap the bulb holder back into place, making sure all retaining tabs are properly over the bulb holder tabs.


7. Reinstall the taillamp assembly by inserting the outboard locating/retaining pins until the lamp is seated. Secure with the inboard screws.


5-58


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15. To remove the windshield wiper blade(s): 1. Turn the wipers on to the lowest intermittent setting. 2. Turn the ignition to OFF while the wipers are at


the outer position of the wipe pattern.


3. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the


windshield or backglass.


4. While holding the wiper


arm away from the glass, push the release clip from under the blade.


5-59


5. Push the release clip at the connecting point of the blade and the arm up. Then pull the blade assembly down toward the glass to remove it from the wiper arm.


6. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper


arm until you hear the release clip “click” into place.


7. Push the release clip, from Step 4, down to secure


the wiper blade into place.


5-60


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.


{CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut,


punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your


tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


5-61


Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall.


5-62


P-Metric Tire


(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-75.


(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-71 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.


(A) Tire Size Code: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size Code” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(C) Department of Transportation (DOT): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.


(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


5-63


(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual configuration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-71 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.


(D) Department of Transportation (DOT): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.


(E) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


LT-Metric Tire


5-64


(F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-71 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.


Compact Spare Tire Example


5-65


(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-95 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-80.


(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-71.


(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter “T” as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.


(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(G) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-95 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.


5-66


Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “P” as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is “75,” as shown in item “C” of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75% as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D” means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


(F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from “A” to “Z”. The light truck tire size example above shows dual or single tire configurations.


5-67


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D” means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


(F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from “A” to “Z”. The light truck tire size example above shows dual or single tire configurations. Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).


Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.


Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire


(A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “LT” as the first two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is “75,” as shown in item “C” of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75% as high as it is wide.


5-68


Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.


Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.


Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-71.


Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.


DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.


GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.


GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.


GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.


Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.


Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. There are 6.9 kPa’s to one psi.


Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.


Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.


Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.


Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.


Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.


5-69


Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.


Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.


Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of a asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand and or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.


Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-71 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.


Radial Ply tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.


Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.


Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.


Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.


Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.


Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 2/32 inch of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-73.


UTQGS: Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards, a tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-75.


Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs. (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.


5-70


Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight and cargo weight.


Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.


Inflation - Tire Pressure The Certification/Tire label or Tire and Loading Information label shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:


Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading


(cid:127) Bad wear


(cid:127) Bad handling (cid:127) Bad fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Bad handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended pressure on the Certification/Tire label or the Tire and Loading Information label.


5-71


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-73 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-76 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the folding wrench to tighten the cable. See “Storing the Spare Tire and Tools” under Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-81. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


5-72


When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certification/Tire label or the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-113.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.


When It Is Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places


around the tire.


(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the


tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split.


5-73


(cid:127) (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label or the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35, for examples of the labels and where they can be found on your vehicle. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, GM recommends that you get tires with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.


5-74


{CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the index.


{CAUTION:


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


(cid:127) Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


5-75


Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.


Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.


5-76


If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


Used Replacement Wheels


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.


Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-81 for more information.


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


Tire Chains Notice: Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


5-77


Accessory Inflator Your vehicle may have an accessory inflator. With it, you can inflate things like air mattresses and basketballs, and you can also use it to bring your tires up to the proper pressure. The accessory inflator is located in the rear compartment on the driver’s side. To remove the protective cap, pull the tab on the cap.


This symbol is on the accessory inflator switch.


There may be an accessory inflator kit stored in the glove box. It includes a 20-foot (6 m) hose with an air pressure gage and nozzle adapters.


5-78


{CAUTION:


Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate any object only to its recommended pressure.


To use your accessory inflator system, do the following:


1. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY or RUN. 2. Attach the appropriate nozzle adapter, if required, to the end of the hose that has the pressure gage. 3. Attach that end of the hose to the object you wish


to inflate.


4. Remove the protective cap covering the outlet. 5. Attach the other end of the hose to the outlet. 6. Press the accessory inflator switch. The light in the switch will come on to show the system is working.


If the accessory inflator system does not turn on or the light does not come on, the fuse may be blown or installed incorrectly. See Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-107 or see your dealer for service. Your accessory inflator will automatically shut off after about 10 minutes. The light in the switch will blink. After about one minute you can use the system again. Press the switch and the indicator light will come on. Notice: 30 minutes at a time, you could damage the inflator. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Run the inflator for short periods of time only. After running the accessory inflator for 30 minutes, wait at least 10 minutes before restarting the accessory inflator.


If you run the accessory inflator longer than


To turn off the inflator, do the following: 1. Press the switch and detach the hose, first from the


inflated object, then from the outlet.


2. Put the protective cap back on. 3. Place the inflator kit tools in the pouch, and store in


the glove box.


To put the cap back on, line up the tabs at the back of the cover and put it in place. Push down the tab to secure the cap.


5-79


If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.


{CAUTION:


Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.


If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


5-80


CAUTION:


(Continued)


rear of the tire farthest away from the onebeing changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.


Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.


{CAUTION:


Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart


while the vehicle is raised.


4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the


vehicle.


To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you should put blocks at the front and


CAUTION:


(Continued)


The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.


5-81


Removing the Spare Tire and Tools


The tools you will need are located in the storage compartment at the rear of the vehicle, on the passenger’s side.


To remove the tools, do the following:


1. Remove the side convenience net. 2. Open the jack storage compartment by lifting up the


tab and pulling the cover off.


5-82


A. Jack B. Strap C. Bracket D. Wing Nut E. Jacking Instructions F. Bag and Tools G. Tire Bag and Cable (All-Wheel Drive


(AWD)) only


3. Remove the jack and jacking tools by loosening the


wing nut and bracket.


4. Separate the plastic pouch from the jack and remove the jacking tools, including the folding wrench and extension, from the pouch.


The tools you will be using include the jack (A), extension (B) and folding wrench (C). The compact spare tire is located under the rear of the vehicle. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section for more information about the compact spare. To remove the compact spare tire, do the following:


A. Hoist Shaft B. Hoist Assembly C. Retainer D. Compact Spare Tire E. Extension (Chisel End) F. Folding Wrench 1. Attach the folding wrench to the extension and


insert the chisel end on an angle through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft.


5-83


4. If your vehicle is an AWD vehicle, after removing the compact spare tire, turn the wrench clockwise to raise the cable back up. On an AWD vehicle, you can not store a full-size tire under the vehicle. It should be stowed inside the vehicle by the cable provided. See “Storing the Flat Tire on an All-Wheel-Drive Vehicle” later in this section. If you have a front-wheel-drive vehicle, the hoist is used to store a full-size or a flat road tire under the vehicle. See “Storing the Spare Tire and Tools” and “Storing the Flat Tire on a Front-Wheel Drive Vehicle” later in this section.


If the compact spare tire will not lower, check under the vehicle to see if the tire is hanging loose and the cable end and spring under the wheel plate are missing. If so, the secondary latch system is engaged. See “Secondary Latch System” later in this section. To continue changing the flat tire see “Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire” later in this section.


2. Turn the folding wrench counterclockwise to lower the compact spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wrench so the compact spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.


3. To remove the compact spare tire from the cable, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening.


5-84


Secondary Latch System Your vehicle may have an underbody mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop a tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire must be stowed with the valve stem pointing down. Front-wheel-drive vehicles use the underbody tire hoist assembly to store either the compact spare or a flat road tire. See “Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” later in this section for instructions on storing the spare or flat tire correctly. If your vehicle is equipped with AWD, the underbody tire hoist assembly stores only the compact spare tire. See “Storing the Spare Tire and Tools” later in this section for instructions. To store a flat full-size tire correctly, see “Storing the Flat Tire on an All-Wheel-Drive Vehicle” later in this section.


{CAUTION:


Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed below.


To release the spare tire from the secondary latch, do the following:


{CAUTION:


Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from the spare.


5-85


4. Lower the jack by turning the folding wrench


counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the compact spare tire is resting on the folding wrench.


1. Place the jack under the vehicle, ahead of the rear


bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the compact spare tire.


2. Turn the folding wrench clockwise to raise the jack


until it lifts the secondary latch device under the wheel plate.


3. Keep raising the jack until the compact spare tire stops moving upward and is held firmly in place, this lets you know that the secondary latch has released.


5-86


5. Grasp the compact spare tire with both hands and


pull it out from under the vehicle.


6. Reach under the vehicle and remove the folding


wrench and jack.


Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been repaired or replaced.


Removing the Wheel Covers If the wheel has a center cap, use the handle of the folding wrench to pry it off. Then, with the other end of the folding wrench, loosen the nuts.


If your vehicle has the plastic bolt-on wheel covers, loosen the bolts completely using the folding wrench, and remove the wheel cover.


Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire


1. Loosen the wheel nuts – but do not remove them – using the folding wrench. Turn the handle about 180 degrees, then flip the handle back to the starting position. This avoids taking the wrench off the lug nut for each turn.


For wheels with a wheel lock key, use the wheel lock key between the lock nut and folding wrench. The key is supplied in the front passenger door pocket.


If your vehicle has wheel locks and you


Notice: use an impact wrench to remove the wheel nuts, you could damage the lock nut or wheel lock key. Do not use an impact wrench to remove the wheel nuts if your vehicle has wheel locks.


5-87


2. Near each wheel, there


is a notch in the vehicle’s body. Position the jack and raise the jack head until it fits firmly into the notch in the vehicle’s frame nearest the flat tire.


{CAUTION:


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


{CAUTION:


If you use a jack to raise the vehicle


Notice: without positioning it correctly, you could damage your vehicle. When raising your vehicle on a jack, avoid contact with the rear axle control arms. Do not raise the vehicle yet. Put the compact spare tire near you.


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.


5-88


3. Attach the folding


wrench to the jack, and turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack head a few inches.


4. Raise the vehicle by turning the folding wrench


clockwise in the jack. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit under the wheel well.


5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire. 6. Remove any rust or dirt


from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


{CAUTION:


Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.


5-89


7. Install the compact spare tire and put the wheel


nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.


9. Tighten the wheel nuts


firmly in a crisscross sequence, as shown.


{CAUTION:


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index for wheel nut torque specification.


8. Lower the vehicle by attaching the folding wheel


wrench to the jack and turning the wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


5-90


{CAUTION:


The underbody-mounted spare tire needs to be stored with the valve stem pointing down. If the spare tire is stored with the valve stem pointing upwards, its secondary latch won’t work properly and the spare tire could loosen and suddenly fall from your vehicle. If this happened when your vehicle was being driven, the tire might contact a person or another vehicle, causing injury and, of course, damage to itself as well. Be sure the underbody-mounted spare tire is stored with its valve stem pointing down.


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead


Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the index for the wheel nut torque specification.


10. Do not try to put a wheel cover on the compact


spare tire. It will not fit. Store the wheel cover securely in the rear of the vehicle until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.


Notice: Wheel covers will not fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare. Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools


{CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


5-91


Storing the Spare Tire and Tools 1. Lay the tire near the rear of the vehicle with the


valve stem down.


2. If the vehicle has aluminum wheels, remove the small center cap by tapping the back of the cap with the extension of the shaft.


3. Slide the cable retainer through the center of the


wheel and start to raise the tire. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.


4. When the tire is almost in the stored position, turn


the tire so the valve is towards the rear of the vehicle. This will help when you check and maintain tire pressure in the spare.


5. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the


vehicle. Continue turning the folding wrench until you feel more than two clicks. This indicates that the compact spare tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.


5-92


A. Push and Pull B. Turn Tire


6. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the folding wrench to tighten the cable.


Put back all tools as they were stored in the jack storage compartment and put the compartment cover back on.


To put the cover back on, line up the tabs on the right of the cover with the slots in the cover opening. Push the cover in place and push down the tab so that it rests in the groove. This secures the cover in place.


A. Strap B. Bag and Tools C. Jack


Store the center cap or the plastic bolt-on wheel covers until a full size tire is put back on the vehicle. When you replace the compact spare with a full-size tire, reinstall the bolt-on wheel covers or the center cap. Hand-tighten them over the wheel nuts, using the folding wrench. Storing the Flat Tire on a Front-Wheel Drive Vehicle Follow the previously listed procedure for storing a spare tire. Storing the Flat Tire on an All-Wheel-Drive Vehicle 1. Remove the tire storage bag and cable package


from the jack storage area.


2. If the vehicle has aluminum wheels, remove the small center cap by tapping the back of the cap with the extension of the shaft.


3. Put the flat tire in the tire storage bag and place it


in the rear storage area with the valve stem pointing toward the front of the vehicle.


5-93


5. Hook the cable onto the outside portion of the liftgate hinges.


A. Cable B. Liftgate Hinges C. Door Striker


4. Pull the cable through the door striker and the


center of the wheel.


6. Pull on the cable to make sure it is secure.


7. Make sure the metal


tube is centered at the striker. Push the tube towards the front of the vehicle.


8. Close the liftgate and make sure that it is latched.


5-94


Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again. Notice: When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.


Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare. All-Wheel Drive After installing a compact spare tire on a vehicle with all-wheel drive you will need to drive with light to moderate acceleration, for 10 seconds, in a straight line. This action will allow the vehicle to detect the compact spare tire and disable the all-wheel drive system. The AWD DISABLE message will come on the instrument panel cluster indicating that the all-wheel drive system is off. You may detect a slight pull during this time, but this is normal. Notice: You may damage your vehicle’s all-wheel drive system if your vehicle is driven for an extended period with a compact spare tire installed and the all-wheel drive system in operation. See “All-Wheel Drive System” and “AWD Disable Warning Message” in the Index for more information.


5-95


Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you are cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: (cid:127) Gasoline (cid:127) Benzene (cid:127) Naphtha (cid:127) Carbon Tetrachloride (cid:127) Acetone


(cid:127) Paint Thinner


Turpentine Lacquer Thinner


(cid:127) Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous — some more than others — and they can all damage your vehicle, too. Do not use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: (cid:127) Alcohol


Laundry Soap


(cid:127) Bleach (cid:127) Reducing Agents


Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth.


5-96


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Cleaning Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-103. Here are some cleaning tips: (cid:127) Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. (cid:127) Clean up stains as soon as you can – before


they set.


(cid:127) Carefully scrape off any excess stain. (cid:127) Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean


area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.


Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask


surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.


3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate


the material and don’t rub it roughly.


5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a


sponge to remove any excess cleaner.


6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened


towel or cloth.


7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.


5-97


(cid:127) Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the


soiled area with cool water.


2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions


described earlier.


3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat


the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.


4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to dry


completely.


3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions


described earlier.


Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. (cid:127) Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You


may have to do this more than once. Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.


Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.


For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner.


(cid:127) Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.


(cid:127) Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned


immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.


5-98


(cid:127) (cid:127) Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-103. Notice: glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger and the integrated radio antenna. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner.


If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning


Cleaning Built-In Child Restraint Pad The built-in child restraint pad is attatched to the seat frame with fastener strips. You can remove the pad and hand wash it with mild soap and water.


Care of Safety Belts and Built-in Child Restraint Harness Keep the safety belts and the built-in child restraint harness clean and dry.


{CAUTION:


Do not bleach or dye safety belts or the built-in child restraint harness. If you do, they may be severely weakened. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean the safety belts and the child restraint harness only with mild soap and lukewarm water.


5-99


Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. Before you enter an automatic car wash, if your vehicle is equipped with the optional power sliding door, be sure to have the switch for the power sliding door override feature enabled. See Power Sliding Door (PSD) on page 2-16. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle” previously.


Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.


Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-103.


5-100


Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-103. If your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish on your vehicle. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.


Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Cleaning Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.


5-101


Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.


Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials avaliable from your dealer. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.


Cleaning Aluminum Wheels Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels. Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on your vehicle may damage the paint finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on your vehicle.


5-102


Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.


Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.


Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing the following products.


Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials


Description


Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish White Sidewall Tire Cleaner


Vinyl Cleaner


Glass Cleaner


Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner


Usage


Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil and asphalt. Use on chrome or stainless steel. Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints. Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers.


5-103


Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials


(cont’d)


Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials


(cont’d)


Description


Usage


Description


Usage


Spot Lifter


Odor Eliminator


Quickly and easily removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl and cloth upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet.


See your General Motors parts department for these products. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.


Finish Enhancer


Swirl Remover Polish


Cleaner Wax


Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss


Wash Wax Concentrate


Removes dust, fingerprints, and surface contaminants. Spray on wipe off. Removes swirl marks, fine scratches and other light surface contamination. Removes light scratches and protects finish. Cleans, shines and protects in one easy step, no wiping necessary. Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free.


5-104


Vehicle Identification


Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)


This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.


Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.


Service Parts Identification Label You will find this label on the inside of the glove box door. It is very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label, you will find the following: (cid:127) VIN (cid:127) Model designation (cid:127) Paint information (cid:127) A list of all production options and special


equipment

Loading...
x