2002 Chevrolet Suburban Owners Manual

cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).

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You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode” in the Index. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

Parking on Hills

CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brake, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking

brake and shift into PARK (P).

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: D start your engine, D shift into a gear, and D release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

5.

If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL.

6. Release the regular brakes.

CAUTION:

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL.

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Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle is equipped with the following wiring harnesses for towing a trailer.

Basic Trailer Wiring Package

The trailer wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector, is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness connector can be plugged into a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector available through your dealer.

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Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package (If Equipped)

Your vehicle is equipped with the seven-wire trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector that is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform.

The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal D Brown: Taillamps D White: Ground D Light Green: Back-up Lamps D Red: Battery Feed D Dark Blue: Trailer Brake If you need to upgrade your vehicle to heavy-duty trailering, a brake controller harness is available from your dealer.

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The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal D Brown: Taillamps D White: Ground D Light Green: Back-up Lamps D Red: Battery Feed D Dark Blue: Trailer Brake A jumper harness for an electric trailer brake controller and a trailer battery feed fuse are included with this trailering package. (See “Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness” later in this section.) If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is included with your vehicle.

Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness

This harness is included with the heavy-duty trailer wiring package. The harness is for an electric trailer brake controller and includes a trailer battery feed fuse. This harness and fuse should be installed by your dealer or a qualified service center.

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Four Wire Trailer Harness Adapter If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is included with your vehicle.

Connect the adapter with the tab (arrow) pointing toward the top. The cap on the wiring harness will lock onto the tab (arrow) and help hold the adapter in place.

Power Winches If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.

NOTICE:

Using a power winch with the transmission in gear may damage the transmission. When operating a power winch, always leave the transmission in NEUTRAL (N).

Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake, or block the wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling. Step-Bumper Pad Your vehicle has a rear step bumper, it is equipped with a rear step pad at the center of the bumper.

If you will be using the bumper to tow a trailer, you must remove the center cutout circle to install the trailer ball.

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Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

5-2 5-2 5-3 5-9 5-9

Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating

5-12 5-18 5-18 5-19 5-36

Cooling System Engine Fan Noise If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

5-

5-1

Hazard Warning Flashers

The hazard warning flasher is located at the top of the steering column.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. Press the button to make the front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off. Press the button again to turn the flashers off. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can use them to warn others. Set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

5-2

Jump Starting If your battery (or batteries) has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: D They contain acid that can burn you. D They contain gas that can explode or ignite. D They contain enough electricity to

burn you.

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. The ACDelcoR battery in your vehicle has a built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a

12-volt battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

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2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put the automatic transmission in PARK (P), or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL (N) before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear not in NEUTRAL.

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all the lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminal locations of the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (-) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located behind a red plastic cover near the engine accessory drive bracket. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover. The remote negative (-) terminal is located on the engine drive bracket on all V8 diesel engines. On V8 engines it is marked “GND.” On V6 engines the remote negative (-) terminal is located on a tab attached to the engine accessory drive bracket where it is marked “GND.” See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

5-4

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelcoR battery (or batteries) installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

5-5

6. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) cable. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part, or to the remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

5-6

9. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the dead battery or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

NOTICE:

Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the bad battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from vehicle

with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover to its

original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (-) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

5-8

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index. Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” in the Index. In addition, you will find a LOW COOLANT, CHECK COOLANT TEMP, ENGINE OVERHEATED and a REDUCED ENGINE POWER message in the message center on the instrument panel. See “Message Center” in the Index.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode (V8 Engines Only) If an overheated engine condition exists and the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.

NOTICE:

After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. Repair the cause of coolant loss and change the oil. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.

5-9

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it.

CAUTION: (Continued)

5-10

CAUTION: (Continued)

Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message, can indicate a serious problem. See “Low Coolant Message” in the Index. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. D Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If you have an air conditioner and it’s on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- DRIVE (D).

5-11

Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

8100 V8 Engines

All Other Engines

A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

5-12

The coolant level should be at or above the FILL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FILL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

5-14

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.

5-15

Your vehicle may be equipped with one of the two caps shown.

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper

mixture, to the FILL COLD mark.

5-16

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the

engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FILL COLD mark.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure

cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

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Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-18

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission

shift lever in PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).

3. Turn off the engine. 4. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

Tahoe/Yukon Models (Rear Access Panel)

Tahoe/Yukon Models

(Under Driver’s Side Rear Seat)

A. Tool Kit with Jack Tools and Gloves B. Bracket and Wing Nut

A. Speaker B. Bottle Jack C. Wing Nut D. Retaining Hook E. Tire Blocks F. Cover Panel

5-20

The equipment you’ll need is under the storage tray in the left trim panel for Suburban/Yukon XL models. For Tahoe/Yukon models, the equipment is located under the rear seat behind the driver’s seat and behind the left trim panel in the rear of the vehicle. Skip the first step and follow the last three. 1. Remove the tray to access the tools. 2. There is a wing nut used to retain the tool kit.

To remove it, turn the wing nut counterclockwise. 3. To release the bottle jack from its holder, turn the knob on the bottle jack counterclockwise to lower the jack head.

4. The wheel blocks and the wheel block retainer can be removed by turning the wing nut counterclockwise.

You’ll use the jack handle extensions and the wheel wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.

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Suburban/Yukon XL Models

A. Bottle Jack B. Wheel Blocks C. Wing Nut D. Mounting Bracket E. Removable Tray

F. Retaining Hook G. Retaining Bracket

and Wing Nut

H. Tool Kit with Jack Tools and Gloves

A. Hoist Assembly B. Wheel Wrench C. Jack Handle Extensions D. Hoist Shaft E. Valve Stem, Pointed Up F. Spare Tire G. Tire Retainer H. Hoist Cable I. Hoist Lock J. Hoist Shaft Access Hole K. Hoist End of Extension Tool

5-22

Follow these instructions to lower the spare tire: 1. If the vehicle is equipped with a hoist lock, open the

spare tire lock cover on the bumper and use the ignition key to remove the lock.

2. Assemble the wheel wrench and the two jack handle extensions as shown. Insert the hoist end (open end) of the extension through the hole in the rear bumper. Be sure the hoist end of the extension connects into the hoist shaft (the ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire).

3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. The wheel wrench has a hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you, to assist in reaching the spare tire.

4. When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening.

5. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

The tools you’ll be using include the bottle jack (A), the wheel blocks (B), the jack handle (C), the jack handle extensions (D), and the wheel wrench (E). If the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, you’ll need to use both jack handle extensions.

5-23

Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extensions (as needed). Attach the jack handle to the jack.

Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the jack lift head to the lifting point.

5-24

If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, loosen them by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. If you have a center cap with wheel nut caps, the wheel nut caps are designed to remain with the center cap. Remove the center cap.

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

1. Use the wheel wrench

to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Don’t remove the wheel nuts yet.

If the wheel has a smooth center piece, place the chisel end of the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry out.

5-25

CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

2. Position the jack under the vehicle. If the flat tire is on the front of the vehicle, position the jack on the frame behind the flat tire where the frame sections overlap.

On all 1500 series vehicles, use the jacking pad provided on the rear axle. On 2500 series vehicles, use the axle between the spring and shock. If you have added a snow plow to the front of your vehicle, lower the snow plow fully before raising the vehicle.

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Front Position

Rear Position

1500 Series

Rear Position

2500 Series

3. Make sure the jack head is positioned so that the rear axle is resting securely between the grooves that are on the jack head. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit back underneath the rear of the vehicle.

5-27

4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

CAUTION:

5. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

5-28

6. After mounting the spare, put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each wheel nut by hand using the wheel wrench until the wheel is held against the hub.

Front Position

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Rear Position

1500 Series

Rear Position

2500 Series

7. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.

8. Tighten the nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as

shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise.

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Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

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Store the flat tire where the spare tire was stored. To store the tire: 1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle

with the valve stem pointed upward.

2. Tilt the retainer downward and through the wheel

opening. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.

3. Attach the wheel wrench and extensions together.

Insert the hoist end through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft.

4. Raise the tire part way upward. Make sure the

retainer is seated in the wheel opening.

5. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the

vehicle. Continue turning the wheel wrench until the tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.

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6. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and

then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable.

Put back the jack, tools and spare tire lock.

To store the tools, follow these procedures: For Tahoe/Yukon models do the following: 1. Put the tool kit, with the jack tools and gloves,

in the tool bag and place in the retaining clip under the driver’s side second seat.

2. Tighten down with the wing nut. 3. Then, assemble wheel chocks and bottle jack together with the wing nut and retaining hook.

4. Position behind the jack storage cover in the left rear side panel just below the speaker and tighten, adjusting clockwise until the jack is secured tight in the mounting bracket. Be sure to position the holes in the base of the jack onto the pin in the mounting bracket.

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A. Hoist Assembly B. Wheel Wrench C. Jack

Handle Extensions

D. Hoist Shaft

E. Valve Stem, Pointed Up

F. Flat or Spare Tire G. Tire Retainer H. Hoist Cable

For Suburban/Yukon XL models do the following: 1. Return the tool kit (jack tools and gloves) to the

tool bag.

2. Assemble wheel chocks and bottle jack together with

the wing nut and retaining hook.

3. Position under the jack storage tray in the left

rear side panel below the wheelbase and tighten, adjusting clockwise until the jack is secured tight in the mounting bracket. Be sure to position the holes in the base of the jack onto the pin in the mounting bracket.

4. Use the retaining clip to fasten the tool kit on the

stud in the storage compartment in the rear left trim panel and turn the wing nut clockwise to secure.

5. Return the storage tray.

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Tahoe/Yukon Models

(Under Driver’s Side Rear Seat)

A. Tool Kit with Jack Tools and Gloves B. Bracket and Wing Nut

Tahoe/Yukon Models (Rear Access Panel)

A. Speaker B. Bottle Jack C. Wing Nut D. Retaining Hook E. Tire Blocks F. Cover Panel

Suburban/Yukon XL Models

A. Bottle Jack B. Wheel Blocks C. Wing Nut D. Mounting Bracket E. Removable Tray

F. Retaining Hook G. Retaining Bracket

and Wing Nut

H. Tool Kit with Jack Tools and Gloves

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Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully inflated spare tire. A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inflation pressure regularly. See “Inflation-Tire Pressure” and “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for information regarding proper tire inflation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index. After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare is correctly inflated. Have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, a spare tire will be available in case you need it again.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

CAUTION:

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

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NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI or 4LO. If your vehicle has the Traction Assist System, you should turn it off by pressing the TAS on/off button. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Using the Recovery Hooks

Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

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CAUTION:

These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

NOTICE:

Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

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Service Fuel (Gasoline) Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol) Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Passenger Compartment Air Filter (If Equipped) Automatic Transmission Fluid Rear Axle Four-Wheel Drive Engine Coolant Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap

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Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel (Gasoline) The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E-85); also see “Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol)” following. In all other engines, including the 5.3L V8 (VIN Code T), use only regular unleaded gasoline. Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it is bad enough, it can damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary.

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Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers’ Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Canada Only

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Additives Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuel E-85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index. If your vehicle has the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z only), you may use either regular unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E-85); also see “Fuel (Gasoline)” listed previously. In all other engines, including the 5.3L V8 (Code T), use only regular unleaded gasoline.

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Only vehicles that have the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code Z) may use 85% ethanol fuel (E-85). Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E-85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (http://afdcmap.nrel.gov/nrel/) that can help you find E-85 fuel. Those stations that do have E-85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. Your vehicle may not operate properly if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. At a minimum, E-85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. To insure quick starts in the wintertime, the E-85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E-85, it may be because your E-85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to your fuel tank may improve starting. Your vehicle is designed to accommodate a mixture of gasoline and E-85 fuel. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32_F (0_C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol.

E-85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you’ll need to refill your fuel tank more often when using E-85
than when you’re using gasoline. Regular unleaded gasoline is recommended when pulling a trailer. For payload capacity with ethanol fuel see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Some additives are not compatible with E-85 fuel and may harm your fuel system. Damage caused by additives wouldn’t be covered by your new vehicle warranty. Don’t use additives with E-85 fuel.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. Don’t use fuel containing methanol.

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Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. Filling Your Tank

CAUTION:

The fuel cap is located on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

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CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

While refueling, hang the fuel cap by the tether using the hook located on the inside of the filler door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

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When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into

approved containers.

D Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

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Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood do the following:

CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

1. Pull the handle inside

the vehicle located under and to the left of the steering wheel.

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2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on

the secondary hood release located near the center of the grill.

3. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly.

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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the VORTEC 5300 V8 engine (VORTEC 4800 and 6000 V8 engines similar), you’ll see the following:

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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If Equipped) F. Engine Oil Fill G. Fan

H. Remote Negative (-) Terminal (GND) I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal K. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir L. Underhood Fuse Block M. Battery N. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

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When you open the hood on the VORTEC 8100 V8 engine you’ll see the following:

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter B. Coolant Surge Tank C. Air Filter Restriction Indicator D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick F. Engine Oil Fill 6-14

G. Fan H. Remote Negative (-)

Terminal (GND)

I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir

K. Brake Master Fluid Reservoir L. Underhood Fuse Block M. Battery N. Windshield Washer

Fluid Reservoir

Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Engine Oil

If the CHECK ENG OIL LEVEL message appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.

For more information, see “CHECK ENG OIL LEVEL” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

8100 Engines

All Other Engines

The engine oil dipstick has a yellow ring handle and is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

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8100 Engines

All Other Engines

The engine oil fill cap for the VORTEC 4800, 5300, 6000 and 8100 V8
engines is located on the engine valve cover, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

Your vehicle may have a cap with text and a graphic, or just a graphic as shown. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life Systemt) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

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How to Reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL Message The GM Oil Life Systemt calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal

three times within five seconds.

If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message flashes for five seconds, the system is reset.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The engine air cleaner/filter assembly has an indicator that lets you know when the air filter is dirty and needs to be serviced. The indicator is located on the air cleaner cover. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index to determine when to check the indicator.

The service window A with the percentage scale shows the amount of engine air cleaner/filter life used. When both service window A and service window B turn orange, replace the engine air cleaner/filter.

After changing the air filter, press the top button on the indicator to reset it.

Your engine air cleaner/filter is located in the front corner of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

1. To remove the engine/air cleaner filter, loosen the

screws on the housing cover.

2. Then lift the cover upward and remove the filter

from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.

3. Clean the filter sealing surface and the filter housing. 4. Install the new filter. 5. Reinstall the housing cover.

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Passenger Compartment Air Filter (If Equipped) Your vehicle may be equipped with a passenger compartment air filter. The filter is located under the instrument panel, below the glove compartment. Your vehicle may or may not be equipped with an access panel. To replace the passenger compartment air filter, do the following: 1. If your vehicle has an access panel, remove the bolts on it and set the panel aside. If your vehicle does not have the access panel, skip this step.

3. Remove the air filter by pulling downward on the

element. Remove the second portion of the air filter by sliding it towards the rear of the vehicle and then pulling downward.

4. Install the new filter by reversing the steps listed previously. Be sure to follow any instructions that may be included in the replacement filter package.

Because this procedure can be a little difficult, you may choose to have it done at your dealer’s service department. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the passenger compartment air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance” in the Index.

2. Next, pull

downward on the filter retaining bracket.

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Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50_F (10_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and

wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

The red transmission dipstick handle with the TRANS/LOCK text or graphic is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side.

See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross–hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross–hatched area for a hot check. 4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

1500 Series shown, 2500 and 3500 Series similar To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch to 1 5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 2500 Series is from 0 to 3/8 inch (0 to 10 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.

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How to Check Lubricant

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Front Axle

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

Automatic Transfer Case

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant

The coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

If the LOW COOLANT light comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

See “Low Coolant” in the Index.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FILL COLD mark.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.

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Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap

Your vehicle may be equipped with one of the two caps shown. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank.

NOTICE:

Your coolant surge tank pressure cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating.

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Power Steering Fluid

8100 Engines

All Other Engines

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use