1997 Chevrolet Suburban Owners Manual

0 In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90°F (32 “C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer towing.

0 Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership Service Department.

If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

I NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32" C). 0 At high speed for quite a while. 0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather.

While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).

Checking Transmission Fluid Hot Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.

Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

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Checking the Fluid Hot or Cold

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

1. The red transmission dipstick is located at the rear of

the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t ove$ll.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four-wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

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How to Check Lubricant

Front Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant.

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If the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with new DEX-COOL@ engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL@ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

A 50/50 mixture of water and the proper coolant for your vehicle will: 0 Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). 0 Give boiling protection up to 265 “F ( 129 * C). 0 Protect against rust and corrosion. 0 Help keep the proper engine temperature. 0 Let the warning gages work as they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half DEX-COOLS coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

J A CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain .water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

I NOTICE:

If’ you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

~~

~~

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant

The coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger’s side at the rear corner of the engine compartment. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the HOT mark, or a little higher.

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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@

coolant mixture ut the coolant recovery tank. - A CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a never have to add coolant at the radiator. little -- when the engine and radiator are hot. not to spill it. A CAUTION:

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Radiator Pressure Cap

NOTICE:

The radiator pressure cap must be tightly installed with the arrows on the cap lined up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended.

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Power Steering Fluid

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants’’ in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

K C A U T I O N :

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to

your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance

Inspections’’ in the Index.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid check level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.

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Checking Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the window on the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above MIN and below the top of the window.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme 11 No. 12377967). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

(GM Part

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

- 1

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NOTICE:

0 Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are

worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

I NOTICE: r Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads

could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.

Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.’’ Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Fluid Leak Check After the vehicle has been parked for a while, inspect the surface under the vehicle for water, oil, fuel or other fluids. Water dripping from the air conditioning system after it has been used is normal. If you notice fuel leaks or fumes, the causes should be found and corrected at once. Battery Every new vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

/d CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

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Sealed Beam Headlamps

1. Remove the

four screws from the headlamp retainer.

Index.

lbs” in the

Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. For the proper bulb type, see “Replacement Bu Halogen Bulbs A CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

2. Pull the headlamp out and remove the retainer.

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3. Unplug and remove

the headlamp.

Composite Headlamps

4. Plug in the new headlamp and put it in place. 5. Install the retainer to the headlamp and tighten

the screws.

2. Pull the headlamp lens assembly out.

3. Unplug the

electrical connector.

Front Parking/-rn Signal Lamps with Sealed Beam Headlamps

1. Remove the two screws

at the inside edge of the parkinghurn signal lamp assembly.

4. Turn the bulb to the left and remove it. 5. Put the new bulb into the lens assembly and turn it to

the right until it is tight.

6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp lens assembly back into the

vehicle. Install and tighten the two screws.

2. Remove the lamp assembly by swinging it out from the inside edge and sliding it out at the outside edge.

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3. Squeeze the tab on the side of the lamp socket while turning the socket to the left.

Front P a r k i n n r n Signal Lamps with Composite Headlamps

4. Pull the socket out of the lamp assembly. 5. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it to the left and

remove it from the socket.

6. Put the new bulb into the socket, gently press in on

the bulb and turn it to the right until it is tight.

7. Put the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn

it to the right until it locks.

8. Put the parkingkurn signal lamp assembly back into

the vehicle and tighten the screws.

2. Squeeze the tab on the side of the lamp socket while

turning the socket to the left.

3. Pull the socket out of the

lamp assembly.

Sidemarker Lamps with Sealed Beam and Composite Headlamps

1. Remove the screws and

pull out the parkinghurn signal lamp assembly.

4. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it to the left and

remove it from the socket.

5. Put the new bulb into the socket, gently press in on

the bulb and turn it to the right until it is tight.

6. Put the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn

it to the right until it locks.

7. Put the parkinghurn signal lamp assembly back into

the vehicle and tighten the screws.

2. Reach through the opening and turn the sidemarker

bulb socket to the left and remove it.

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3. Pull the bulb straight out

of the socket.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) The individual bulbs in the CHMSL are not replaceable. See your dealer for assistance. Roof Marker Lamps 1. Remove the screws and lift off the lens. 2. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 3. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it

is tight.

4. Replace the lens and tighten the screws.

4. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it

is tight.

5. Put the socket back into the sidemarker assembly

and turn it to the right to tighten it.

6. Replace the parkingkurn signal lamp assembly and

tighten the screws.

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Rear Lamps 1. Open the tailgate or rear doors. 2. Remove the two black plastic plugs from the rear

lamp assembly access holes.

3. Remove the two rear lamp assembly screws inside the fender and pull out the lamp

4. Remove the screws from

the bulb retainer and take the bulb retainer off of the lamp assembly.

5. 6. 7. 8.

9.

Pull the old bulb straight out of the socket. Put in a new bulb and push it in until it is tight. Replace the bulb retainer. Replace the rear lamp assembly and tighten the screws. You may want to use a magnetic screwdriver when installing the screws. Close the tailgate or rear doors.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement For proper type and length, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly:

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details.

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

1. Lift the wiper arm and rotate the blade until it is

facing away from the windshield.

2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly

toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.

3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.

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CAUTION: (Co

0 Underinflated tires pose the same danger as

overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- 0 Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

0 Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Certificatioflire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, or on the incomplete vehicle document in the cab, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven than 1 mile (1.6 km). You can operate some vehicles at reduced inflation pressures only when you’ll be carrying reduced loads. On those vehicles, the minimum cold inflation pressures for a typical reduced load are printed on the Improved Ride Tire Pressure label located on the driver’s door. Weigh the vehicle to find the load on each tire and see the label for the minimum cold inflation pressures for that load.

no more

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NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear

0 Bad handling

Bad fuel economy.

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

FRT

I A C . UTION:

f DO5

When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certificatioflire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)

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When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

YOU need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:

You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

0 The tire has a bump, bulge or split.

The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certificatioflire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these

grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straightahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.

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Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.

Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

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I A CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

I NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Used Replacement Wheels

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Tire Chains

NOTICE:

If your vehicle has P265/75R16 size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance.

NOTICE: (Continued)

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NOTICE: (Continued)

Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires. If you have a tire size other than P26975Rl6, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Don’t use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

6 ‘2

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline Benzene Naphtha

0 Carbon Tetrachloride

Acetone Paint Thinner Turpentine Lacquer Thinner Nail Polish Remover

They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: 0 Alcohol

Laundry Soap Bleach

0 Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth. Your GM dealer has two cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. Do not use them on vinyl or leather. Here are some cleaning tips: 1. Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. 2. Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. 3. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean

area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

4. Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area

only. If you use them, don’t saturate the stained area.

5. If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire

area immediately or it will set.

Using Foam-Type Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask

surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following the

directions on the container label.

4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t

saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge

to remove the suds.

6. Rinse the section with a clean, wet sponge. 7. Wipe off what’s left with a slightly damp paper towel

or cloth.

8. Dry it immediately with a blow dryer. 9. Wipe with a clean cloth.

6-53

Using Solvent-Qpe Cleaner on Fabric First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all. Some spots and stains will clean off better with just water and mild soap. If you need to use a solvent: 1. Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with

a clean, dull knife or scraper.

2. Use very little cleaner, light pressure and clean cloths (preferably cheesecloth). Cleaning should start at the outside of the stain, “feathering” toward the center.

3. Keep changing to a clean section of the cloth. 4. When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately dry the area with a blow dryer to help prevent a cleaning ring.

Fabric Protection Your vehicle has upholstery and carpet that has been treated with Scotchgard” Fabric Protector, a 3M product. It protects fabrics by repelling oil and water, which are the carriers of most stains. Even with this protection, you still need to clean your upholstery and carpet often to keep it looking new. Further information on cleaning is available by calling 1-800-433-3296 (in Minnesota, 1-800-642-6167). Special Cleaning Problems Greasy or Oily Stains Stains caused by grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe polish, coffee with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Follow the solvent-type instructions described earlier. Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain if left on a vehicle’s seat fabric. They should be removed as soon as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner will dissolve them and may cause them to spread.

Non-Greasy Stains Stains caused by catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the foam-type instructions

described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a waterhaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.

Combination Stains Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry. 3. If a stain remains, clean it with solvent-type cleaner.

Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth.

Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do it more than once.

0 Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. 0 For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your

dealer for this product. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. Soiled leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

6-55

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner (GM Part No. 1050427) or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass.

6-56

Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon Ami@ Powder (non-scratching glass cleaning powder), GM Part No. 105001 1 or equivalent. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.

Weatherstrips silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.) Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Use liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soaps. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

Cleaning Exterior LampsLenses Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Your vehicle has a “basecoatklearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoatklearcoat paint finish.

to the colored basecoat.

I NOTICE:

Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoatklearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

6-57

Aluminum Wheels (If Equipped) Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.

6-58

Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner. L NOTICE:

When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint fidish. Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.

Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you. Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

6-59

Appearance Care Materials Chart

-

II I

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

I1 11111111 1111 111 111111 111 111111 I1 111111111111 111111111 I I r n 0 @ SAMPLE4UXVM072675

CODE- MOD

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.

Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: 0 your VIN, 0 the model designation, 0 paint information and 0 a list of all production options and

special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

6-61

Electrical System Add-on Electrical Equipment

NOTICE:

Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.

Headlamps The headlamp wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in the lamp switch. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to flicker on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away. Windshield Wipers The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. Although the circuit is protected from electrical overload, overload due to heavy snow, etc., may cause wiper linkage damage. Always clear ice and heavy snow from the the windshield before using the windshield wipers. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed.

6-62

Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers in the fuse panel protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes. This protects the circuit until the current load returns to normal or the problem is fixed. Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible thermal links in the wiring itself. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index for more information. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can “borrow” one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette lighter -- and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can.

Instrument Panel Fuse Block

The fuse block access door is on the driver’s side edge of the instrument panel. Pull off the cover to access the fuse block. You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor. The fuse extractor is mounted to the fuse block access door.

To remove fuses if you don’t have a fuse extractor, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out. You may have spare fuses attached to the inside of the fuse block access door. These can be used to replace a bad fuse. However, make sure that it is the correct amperage.

6-63

Fuse/Circuit

Breaker Usage

Fuse/Circuit

Breaker Usage

Stop/TCC Switch, Buzzer, CHMSL, Hazard Lamps, Stoplamps Transfer Case Courtesy Lamps, Cargo Lamp, Glove Box Lamp, DomeReading Lamps, Vanity Mirrors, Power Mirrors

10 11 12 13

Instrument Cluster, DRL Relay, Lamp Switch, Keyless Entry, Low Coolant Module, Illuminated Entry Module, DRAC (Diesel Engine) Rear Comfort Controls Cruise Control Auxiliary Power Outlet Air Bag System License Lamp, Parking Lamps, Taillamps, Roof Marker Lamps, Tailgate Lamps, Front Sidemarkers, Fog Lamp Relay, Door Switch Illumination, Fender Lamps, Headlamp Switch Illumination Air Bag System Wiper Motor, Washer Pump N C , A/C Blower, High Blower Relay Power Amp, Rear Liftglass, Cigarette Lighter, Door Lock Relay, Power Lumbar Seat ,

Fuse/Circuit

Breaker Usage

Underhood Fuse/Relay Center

14

15 16

17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24

4WD Indicator, Cluster, Front and Rear Comfort Controls, Instrument Switches, Radio Illumination, Chime Module DRL Relay, Fog Lamp Relay Front and Rear Turn Signals, Back-up Lamps, BTSI Solenoid Radio (Ignition) 4WALNCM, ABS, Cruise Control Radio (Battery) PRNDL, Automatic Transmission, Speedometer, Check Gages, Warning Lights Variable Effort Steering Not Used Rear Wiper, Rear Washer Pump Front Axle, 4WD Indicator Lamp, TP2 Relay (Gasoline Engine) Power Door Lock, Six-Way Power Seat, Keyless Entry Module Power Windows

The underhood fusehelay center is located in the rear of the engine compartment near the brake fluid reservoir. Move the retainer clips for the cover to access the fuse block. You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor. The fuse extractor is mounted to the interior fuse block. To remove fuses if you don't have a fuse extractor, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out.

6-65

Name FUEL SOL GLOW PLUG HORN AUX FAN ECM- 1 AIC ENG- 1

LIGHTING

BATT IGN-A IGN-B ABS BLOWER

STOP/HAZ

Circuits Protected Fuel Solenoid (Diesel Engine) Glow plugs (Diesel Engine) Horn, Underhood Lamps Auxiliary Fan Injectors, PCMNCM Air Conditioning Ignition Switch, EGR, Canister Purge, EVRV Idle Coast Solenoid, Heated 02, Fuel Heater (Diesel Engine), Water Sensor (Diesel Engine) Headlamp and Panel Dimmer Switch, Fog and Courtesy Fuses Battery, Fuse Block Busbar Ignition Switch Ignition Switch Anti-Lock Brake Module Hi Blower and Rear Blower Relays Stoplamps

Name ECM-B RR DEFOG IGN-E

Circuits Protected Fuel Pump, PCMNCM Rear Window Defogger Auxiliary Fan Relay Coil, A/C Compressor Relay, Hot Fuel Module

6-66

Replacement Bulbs

LAMP OR BULB HEADLAMPS 2 Headlamp System (Sealed Beam) Low/High Beam 4 Headlamp System (Composite) Low-Beam High-Beam LAMP OR BULB EXTERIOR Front Marker Lamp Front Parking and Turn Lamp Rear Parking Lamp Rear Stop and Turn Lamp Back-up Lamp Roof Marker Lamp* License Plate Lamp Underhood Lamp Reel Lamp *Suburban Only

TRADE NO.

POWER RATING AT 12.8V, WATTS

35/65

55 65

QTY

H6054

9006 9005

TRADE NO.

194

2357NA

3057 3057 3 156 194 194 93 232

6-67

LAMP OR BULB INTERIOR Dome Lamps Reading Lamps Roof Console Lamps* Door Courtesy Lamp Four-Wheel-Drive Indicator Four-Wheel-Drive Shift Lever Instrument Panel Compartment Lamp Ashtray Lamp Sunshade Vanity Mirror *Suburban Only

TRADE NO.

211-2 211-2 168 194 194 194 194 194 74

214"

Capacities and Specifications Please refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for more information. Engine Identification -- Gasoline Engines Engine

“VORTEC”

“VORTEC”

5700 V8 L3 1 SFI*

Type RPO Code VIN Code Fuel System

*Sequential Fuel Injection

7400 V8 L29

SFI*

Wheels and Tires MODEL C 1500

6 bolts (14 mm)

K 1500, C-IS 2500 C-K 2500

DESCRIPTION 5 bolts ( 14 mm)

TORQUE 140 lb-ft (190 Nam) 140 lb-ft (190 N-m) 140 lb-ft (190 N-m) Tire Pressure See the Certificationmire label on the rear edge of the driver’s door or the incomplete vehicle document in the cab.

8 bolts ( 14 mm)

6-69

Filter

“VORTEC” 5700

Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts -- Gasoline Engines Replacement part numbers listed in this section are based on the latest information available at the time of printing, and are subject to change. If a part listed in this manual is not the same as the part used in your vehicle when it was built, or if you have any questions, please contact your GM truck dealer. Engine VIN Oil Filter Cleaner Air Spark

Plugs Spark Fuel Wiper Blades (Front) Wiper Blade Type (Front) Wiper Blade Wiper Blade Wiper

Blade inches 14 (35.5 cm) Wiper Blade “four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles -- use a PF52 oil filter.

AC Type PF1218f AC A1300C

1-932 AC Type 4 0.060 in. (1.52 mm) GF626

AC Type PF1218 AC Type A1300C AC Type 41-932 0.060 in. (1.52 mm) AC Type GF626

GM Part No. 22154396

Trico 18 inches (45.0 cm)

(Rear) Type (Rear)

GM Part No. 22154396

GM Part No. 22154886

GM Part No. 22154886

18 inches (45.0 cm)

‘VORTEC” 7400

14 inches (35.5 cm)

Length

Length

(Front)

(Rear)

Trico

Trico

Trico

Type

Type

Plug

Gap

AC

 Without

QTY

Cooling System Capacity (Approximate) After refill, the level must be rechecked. See “Cooling System” in the Index. ENGINE VIN “VORTEC” 5700 “VORTEC” 7400

17.5 Quarts (16.5 L) 25 Quarts (23.5 L)

FILTER?

VIN QUANTITY WITH

Crankcase Capacity (Approximate) After refill, the level must be rechecked. See “Engine Oil” in the Index. ENGINE “VORTEC” 5700 “VORTEC” 7400 ?Oil filter should be changed at every oil change.

5 Quarts (4.8 L) 7 Quarts (6.5 L)

QTY With Rear Heater

20 Quarts (19 L) 27.5 Quarts (26 L)

6-71

Fuel Tank Capacity (Approximate) TYPE GasolineDiesel Utility - Standard Suburban - Standard

30 Gallons (1 13 L) 42 Gallons (159 L)

QUANTITY

Air Conditioning Refrigerants Not all air conditioning refrigerants are the same. If the air conditioning system in your vehicle needs refrigerant, be sure the proper refrigerant is used. If you’re not sure, ask your GM dealer. See refrigerant charge label under the hood for charge capacity information and requirements.

6-72

@% NOTES

6-73

b NOTES

6-74

Section 7 Maintenance Schedule

This section covers the maintenance required for your vehicle. Your vehicle needs these services to retain its safety, dependability and emission control performance.

7-2 7-4 7-4 7-7 7-30

Introduction Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services Selecting the Right Schedule for Your Vehicle Short Trip/City Maintenance Schedule Long Trip/City Maintenance Schedule

7-43 7-47 7-49 7-5 1

Part B: Owner Checks and Services Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants Part E: Maintenance Record

7-1

Introduction Your Vehicle and the Environment Proper vehicle maintenance not only helps to keep your vehicle in good working condition, but also helps the environment. All recommended maintenance procedures are important. Improper vehicle maintenance can even affect the quality of the air we breathe. Improper fluid levels or the wrong tire inflation can increase the level of emissions from your vehicle. To help protect our environment, and to keep your vehicle in good condition, please maintain your vehicle properly.

IMPORTANT: KEEP ENGINE OIL AT THE PROPER

LEVEL AND CHANGE AS

RECOMMENDED

1. Protection

Plan

Have you purchased the GM Protection Plan? The Plan supplements your new vehicle warranties. See your Warranty and Owner Assistance booklet, or your GM dealer for details.

How This Section is Organized The remainder of this section is divided into five parts: “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services” shows what to have done and how often. Some of these services can be complex, so unless you are technically qualified and have the necessary equipment, you should let your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center do these jobs.

Performing maintenance work on a vehicle can be dangerous. In trying to do some jobs, you can be seriously injured. Do your own maintenance work only if you have the required know-how and the proper tools and equipment for the job. If you have any doubt, have a qualified technician do the work.

If you are skilled enough to do some work on your vehicle, you will probably want to get the service information GM publishes. See “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.

“Part B: Owner Checks and Services” tells you what should be checked and when. It also explains what you can easily do to help keep your vehicle in good condition. “Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections” explains important inspections that your GM dealer’s service department or another qualified service center should perform. “Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” lists some products GM recommends to help keep your vehicle properly maintained. These products, or their equivalents, should be used whether you do the work yourself or have it done. “Part E: Maintenance Record” provides a place for you to record the maintenance performed on your vehicle. Whenever any maintenance is performed, be sure to write it down in this part. This will help you determine when your next maintenance should be done. In addition, it is a good idea to keep your maintenance receipts. They may be needed to qualify your vehicle for warranty repairs.

7-3

Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services Using Your Maintenance Schedule We at General Motors want to help you keep your vehicle in good working condition. But we don’t know exactly how you’ll drive it. You may drive very short distances only a few times a week. Or you may drive long distances all the time in very hot, dusty weather. You may use your vehicle in making deliveries. Or you may drive it to work, to do errands or in many other ways. Because of all the different ways people use their GM vehicles, maintenance needs vary. You may even need more frequent checks and replacements than you’ll find in the schedules in this section. So please read this section and note how you drive. If you have any questions on how to keep your vehicle in good condition, see your GM dealer. This part tells you the maintenance services you should have done and when you should schedule them. If you go to your dealer for your service needs, you’ll know that GM-trained and supported service people will perform the work using genuine GM parts. The proper fluids and lubricants to use are listed in Part D. Make sure whoever services your vehicle uses these. All

7-4

parts should be replaced and all necessary repairs done before you or anyone else drives the vehicle. These schedules are for vehicles that:

carry passengers and cargo within recommended limits. You will find these limits on your vehicle’s Certificatioflire label. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. are driven on reasonable road surfaces within legal driving limits. are driven off-road in the recommended manner. See “Off-Road Driving With Your Four- Wheel-Drive Vehicle” in the Index. use the recommended fuel. See “Fuel” in the Index.

Selecting the Right Schedule First you’ll need to decide which of the two schedules is right for your vehicle. Here’s how to decide which schedule to follow: Gasoline engine vehicles and diesel engine vehicles have different maintenance requirements. If you have a diesel engine, follow a schedule designated for diesel engine vehicles only. See the Diesel Engine Supplement for diesel engine maintenance schedules.

Maintenance Schedule Short Trip/City Definition -- Gasoline Engines Follow the Short Trip/City Maintenance Schedule if any one of these conditions is true for your vehicle:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently.

0 You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of

your vehicle.

0 If the vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi

or other commercial application.

if you One of the reasons you should *follow this schedule operate your vehicle under any of these conditions is that these conditions cause engine oil to break down soonez Short Trip/City Intervals -- Gasoline Engines Every 3,000 Miles (5 000 km): Engine Oil and Filter Change (or 3 months, whichever occurs first). Chassis Lubrication (or 3 months, whichever occurs first). Drive Axle Service (or 3 months, whichever occurs first).

Short Trip/City Intervals -- Gasoline Engines Every 6,000 Miles (10 000 km): Tire Rotation. Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Shields and Underhood

Insulation Inspection (GVWR above 8,500 lbs. only). Front Wheel Bearing Repack (2WD only) (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).

Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Fuel Filter Replacement. Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic

Transmission Service (severe conditions only).

Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine Accessory

Drive Belt Inspection. Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines Inspection. Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Inspection. Evaporative Control System Inspection. Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Spark Plug Wire

Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Inspection.

Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km): Cooling System

Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).

These intervals only summarize maintenance services. Be sure to follow the complete maintenance schedule on the following pages.

7-5

Maintenance Schedule I Long Trip/Highway Definition -- Gacoline Engines

Follow this maintenance schedule only if none of the conditions from the Short Trip/City Maintenance Schedule is true. Do not use this schedule if the vehicle is used for trailer towing, driven in a dusty area or used off paved roads. Use the Short Trip/City schedule for these conditions. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slowel: 1 Long TripMighway Intervals -- Gasoline Engines Every 7,500 Miles (12 500 km): Engine Oil and Filter Change (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Chassis Lubrication (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Drive Axle Service. Tire Rotation.

Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Shields and

Underhood Insulation Inspection (GVWR above 8,500 lbs. only).

7-6

Long TripMighway Intervals -- Gasoline Engines Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Fuel Filter Replacement. Front Wheel Bearing Repack (2WD only) (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).

Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic

Transmission Service (severe conditions only).

Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine Accessory

Drive Belt Inspection. Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines Inspection. Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Inspection. Evaporative Control System Inspection. Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Spark Plug Wire

Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Inspection.

Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km): Cooling System

Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).

These intervals only summarize maintenance services. Be sure to follow the complete maintenance schedule on the following pages.

Short Trip/City Maintenance Schedule -- Gasoline Engines I

The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles ( 166 000 km) should be performed after 100,000 miles (166 000 km) at the same intervals. The services shown at 150,000 miles (240 000 km) should be performed at the same interval after 150,000 miles (240 000 km). See “Owner Checks and Services’’ and “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” following. Footnotes The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the

California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded. # Lubricate the front suspension, kingpin bushings, steering linkage, transmission shift linkage, transfer case shift linkage, parking brake cable guides, front axle propshaft splines and brake pedal springs. Ball joints

and kingpin bushings should not be lubricated unless their temperature is 10” F (- 12” C) or higher, or they could be damaged. + A good time to check your brakes is during tire rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under “Periodic Maintenance Inspection” in Part C of this schedule. ** Drive axle service (see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for proper lubricant to use):

Locking Differential -- Drain fluid and refill at first engine oil change. At subsequent oil changes, check fluid level and add fluid as needed. If driving in dusty areas or towing a trailer, drain fluid and refill every 15,000 miles (25 000 km). Standard Differential -- Check fluid level and add fluid as needed at every oil change. If driving in dusty areas or towing a trailer, drain fluid and refill every 15,000 miles (25 000 km). More frequent lubrication may be required for heavy-duty or off-road use.

Short TripKity Maintenance Schedule 3,000 Miles (5 000 km) 0 Change engine oil and filter (or every

-0

3 months, whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.

0 Lubricate chassis components (or every

3 months, whichever occurs first). (See footnote #.)

0 Check readfront axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking. (See footnote **.)

Gasoline Engines

6,000 Miles (10 000 km) 0 Change engine oil and filter (or every

3 months, whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service. Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first). (See footnote #.)

0 Check readfkont axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant velocity joints and