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5. Valve Stem, Pointed Down 6. Spare Tire 7. Retainer 8. Hoist Cable


The &door utility spare tire is stowed under the vehicle in an under-body carrier. Remember, never remove or restow a tire from an under-body carrier while the vehicle is supported only by a jack.


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Spare Tire - Suburban Be sure the J-bolt is hooked properly for your model or tire size as shown.


1. I-Bolt 2. J-Bolt 3. Carrier 4. Spare Tire


5. Adapter 6. Nut 7. Cover 8. Use Lower Adapter Hole for 8-Lug Rim Only


Spare Tire Stowage - &Door Utility Model


UP Marking


DOWN Marking


One side of the ratchet has an UP marking. The other side has a DOWN marking.


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I


..


Attach the ratchet to the wheel wrench with the DOWN marking facing you.


Put the other end of the wheel wrench through the rear bumper access hole, located at the passenger side edge of the license plate. Be sure the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft.


Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to lower the spare tire. Keep turning the ratchet until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.


When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening.


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Changing the Tire


Start with the jack, the jack handle and the ratchet. If the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, you'll need the jack handle extensions also.


Attach the jack handle (and jack handle extension, if needed) to the jack. One side of the ratchet has an UP marking. The other side has a DOWN marking.


With the UP marking on the ratchet facing you, rotate the ratchet clockwise. That will lift the jack head a little.


Before you start, put the spare tire near the flat tire. Remove the wheel trim and loosen the wheel nuts. The next part will show you how to do these things properly.


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Removing Wheel Trim


If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, use the wheel wrench and ratchet to remove them. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise, with DOWN facing you, to remove the wheel nut caps. Then take off the hub cap.


If the wheel also has a trim ring, use the wheel wrench to pry along the edge and remove it.


If the wheel has a smooth center piece or a center piece with recessed nuts, place the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry out.


Now, use the ratchet and wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise, with DOWN facing you, to loosen the wheel nuts. Don’t remove the wheel nuts yet.


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If the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, put the jack handle extension on the jack handle. Position the jack under the vehicle.


I NOTICE:


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.


Front Position


Rear Position


I--


f With UP on the ratchet facing you, raise the vehicle by rotating the ratchet 4 there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.


and wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so


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Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.


Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.


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r z


Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel.


Tighten each wheel nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.


Position


Front


Rear Position


Lower the vehicle by rotating the ratchet and wheel wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


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Tighten Clockwise


Tightening Sequence


Tighten the nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Rotate the wheel wrench clockwise.


For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index. Put the wheel trim back on. For vehicles with plastic wheel nut caps, tighten the caps until they are finger tight, then tighten them an additional one-half turn with the ratchet and wheel wrench. Remove any wheel blocks. Remember, the jack, jacking equipment and tire must be properly stored in their original storage position before you begin driving again. The next part, “Storing the Jack and Tire,” will show you how.


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Stowing the Tire - &Door Utility Model For a under-body spare tire carrier, stow the flat tire under the rear of the vehicle in the spare tire carrier. To stow the flat tire:


1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle with the valve stem


pointed down.


2. Pull the wheel retainer through the wheel opening. 3. Attach the ratchet to the wheel wrench with the UP marking facing you. 4. Put the other end of the wheel wrench through the rear bumper access


hole, located at the passenger side edge of the license plate. Be sure the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft.


5. Turn the ratchet clockwise to raise the tire. Keep turning the ratchet


until the tire is all the way up. You will hear two “clicks” when the tire is secure. Pull on the tire to make sure it is tightly secured.


Stowing the Jack and Jacking Tools it tightly. Fit the storage box on the Put the tools into the storage box and close bracket with the bolt through the box. Put the jack onto the box. Be sure the jack points in the right direction as shown in the illustrations earlier in this part. Secure the emergency gloves, if your vehicle has them, to the jack using the provided strap. Slide the retainer over the bolt onto the jack and put the wing nut on. Turn the nut clockwise until it is tight against the retainer. Replace the jack storage cover, if your vehicle has one, by simply reversing the removal procedure described earlier. Stowing the Tire - 2-Door Utility Model and Suburban Stow the flat tire in the cargo area of the vehicle secured in the tire carrier. To stow the flat tire:


1. Put the cover back on the tire if your vehicle has one. 2. Put the flat tire in the cargo area of the vehicle, over the retainer bolt. 3. Slide the adapter onto the bolt in the proper location for your model


and put the wing nut on.


4. Turn the wing nut clockwise until the adapter is tight and secure against


the wheel.


5. Close the tire cover, if you have one.


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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, /ce or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.


I NOTICE:


Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.


For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) gear and REVERSE), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.


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Using the Recovery Hooks


Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.


5-42


I NOTICE:


Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.


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Notes


.r


5-44


Service & Appearance Care


Section


Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care. Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


,?


a-?:


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you‘ll want to get the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index.


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You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any servi-work you Index.


perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the


NOTICE: If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough about it, your vehicle could be damaged.


Maintenance Schedule Section 7 of this manual, “Scheduled Maintenance Services”, explains the maintenance your new vehicle needs, and when it should be done. It also has a form that you can use to record the maintenance work done on your vehicle. Be sure to read this information. Fuel (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System” in this Section. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this. Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the United States and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see UNLEADED right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck.


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Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.’’ Fuel that is no more than 15%. MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methnrzol is methyl or wood alcohol.


NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.


Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels.


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You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions. Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System Some states and provinces have restrictions on the purchase of diesel fuel for light-duty vehicles and require you to buy permits or pay special taxes. Some of these restrictions apply only to residents, and others apply to both residents and visitors. These restrictions can change. To learn the current restrictions in any state or province, contact your auto club, the police or other officials. Fuel Requirements


NOTICE: Diesel fuel or fuel additives not recommended in this manual could damage your fuel system and engine. Your warranty wouldn’t cover this damage. And:


Diesel fuel that has been mixed with engine oil could damage your engine and emission controls. Always check with your service station operator to make sure his diesel fuel has not been mixed with engine oil. If you ever run out of diesel fuel, it can be difficult to restart your engine. “Running Out of Fuel,” later in this section, tells you how to get it started again. To avoid all this, try never to let your tank get empty.


What Fuel to Use For best results, use Number 2-D diesel fuel year-round (above and below freezing conditions) as oil companies blend Number 2-D fuel to address climate differences. Number 1-D diesel fuel may be used in very cold temperatures (when it stays below 0°F or -1 8°C); however, it will produce a power and fuel economy loss. The use of Number 1-D diesel fuel in warm or hot climates may result in stalling, poor starting when the engine is hot and may damage the fuel injection system. Diesel fuel may foam when you fill your tank. This can cause the automatic pump nozzle to shut off, even though your tank isn’t full. If this happens, just wait for the foaming to stop and then continue to fill your tank.


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Canadian Fuels Diesel-powered trucks are now equipped with emission control systems that require the use of diesel fuel with low-sulfur (.05% by weight) content. Both low- and higher-sulfur fuels will be available in Canada. Only low-sulfur diesel fuels are available in the United States. It is important that diesel-powered trucks are refueled with low-sulfur fuel. Use of fuels with higher-sulfur content will affect the function of the emission components and may cause reduced performance, excessive smoke and unpleasant odor.


Cold Weather Operation Follow the instructions listed previously under the heading “What Fuel to Use .” If you’re driving in very cold temperatures and can’t get a “winterized” Number 2-D that has been adapted to cold weather or a Number 1-D, you can use one gallon of kerosene for every two gallons of diesel fuel. Once you add the kerosene, run your engine for several minutes so the fuels will mix. Add kerosene only when the temperature fills below 0°F (-I 8”C), because the fuel economy of kerosene isn’t as good as that of diesel fuel.


I NOTICE:


Never use home heating oil or gasoline in your diesel engine. They can cause engine damage.


In cold weather, your fuel filter may become clogged (waxed). To unclog it, warm the filter to between 32°F and 50°F (0°C to 10°C). You won’t need to replace it. Water in Fuel Sometimes, water can be pumped into your fuel tank along with your diesel fuel. This can happen if a service station doesn’t regularly inspect and clean its fuel tanks, or if it gets contaminated fuel from its suppliers.


If this happens, a WATER IN FUEL light will come ! on. If it does, the excess water must be drained. Your Cfpder can show you hc 3w to do this.


WATER


IN FUEL


This light also should come on briefly when you start your engine, as a check. If it doesn’t, have it fixed so it will be there to let you know if you ever do get water in your fuel.


If the light comes on at any other time, use this chart.


NOTICE: If you drive when this warning light is on, you can damage your fuel injection system and your engine. If the light comes on right after you refuel, it means water was pumped into your fuel tank. Turn off your engine immediately. Then, have the water drained at once.


“WATER IN FUEL” LIGHT CHART Problem


Recommended Action Drain water from fuel filter.


Light comes on intermittently. Light stays on: 1. At temperatures above freezing. Drain fuel filter immediately. If no


water can be drained and light stays on, see your dealer for assistance. 2. At temperatures below freezing. Drain fuel filter immediately. If no


water can be drained-water may be frozen. Open the air bleed valve to check for fuel pressure. If no fuel pressure is present, replace the fuel filter. Fuel tank purging required. See your dealer for assistance.


3. Immediately after refueling - large amount of water possibly pumped into fuel tank.


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Hesitation or “flat” performance at high speed or during hard acceleration may be an indication of premature fuel filter plugging due to dirty or contaminated fuel. The filter element may need to be changed if this happens. See your dealer for assistance. To drain water:


I . Stop and park the vehicle in a safe place. Turn off the engine and apply


the parking brake.


2. Remove the fuel tank cap. 3. Place a fuel-resistant container under the filter drain hose.


4. With the engine


off? open the water drain valve 2 to 3 turns. When standing in front of the vehicle, the valve is located on the right side of the thermostat housing.


5. Start the engine and allow it to idle until clear fuel is observed. 6. Stop the engine and close the water drain valve. 7. Remove the fuel-resistant container and properly dispose of the


contaminated fuel. To find out how to properly dispose of contaminated diesel fuel see “What to Do with Used Oil” in the “Engine Oil (Diesel Engines)” part, later in this section.


8. Install the fuel tank cap. If the WATER IN FUEL light comes on again after driving a short distance or the engine runs rough or stalls-a been pumped into the fuel tank. The fuel tank should be purged.


large amount of water has probably


6% CAUTION: Diesel he1 containing water is still flammable. You could be your fuel, keep burned. If you ever try to drain water from from the mixture. sparks, flames and smoking materials away


6-7


NOTICE: If there is water in your diesel fuel and the weather is warm or humid, fungus and bacteria can grow in the fuel. They can damage your fuel system. You’ll need a diesel fuel biocide to sterilize your fuel system. Your dealer can advise you if you ever need this. If your fuel tank needs to be purged to remove water, dealer or a qualified technician. Improper purging can damage your fuel system.


see your


Running Out of Fuel (Diesel Engines) If the engine stalls and you think that you’ve run out of fuel, do this:


First, open the fuel filter air bleed valve. Briefly crank the engine and have someone watch the bleed valve. If there is air, then you are probably out of fuel.


To restart your engine:


1. If you’re parked on a level surface, add at least two gallons of fuel.


However, if you’re parked on a slope, you may need to add up to five gallons of fuel.


2. With the air bleed valve open, turn your ignition key to START for 10


to 15 seconds to crank (but not start) your engine. Wait one minute between intervals of cranking to allow the starter motor to cool. Overheating the starter motor could damage it. Keep doing this until you can just see some clear fuel at the air bleed valve. (If, during this step, the engine starts, turn the ignition off and close the valve before restart.)


3. Close the air bleed valve. 4. Turn the ignition key to START for 10 to 15 seconds at a time until


your engine starts.


Fuel Filter Replacement (Diesel Engines) If you want to change the fuel filter yourself, here's how to do it:


First, drain any water from the filter following the procedure for draining water listed previously. Your vehicle's engine should be off until the end of the following procedure.


r.


1. Apply the parking brake. 2. Take off the fuel tank cap. This releases vacuum in the tank.


3. Unscrew and


remove the ring nut from the top of the filter head.


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4. Lift the element out of the filter head.


5. If there is any dirt


on the element sealing surface of the filter head, clean it off.


6. Line up the


widest slot in the top of the new element with the widest key on then top of the filter head. Push the element in until the mating surfaces touch.


7. Replace and tighten the ring nut to the top of'the filter head 8. With the air bleed valve open, turn your ignition key to START for 10


to 15 seconds, Wait one minute for your starter to cool. Do this until you can see clear fuel coming from the air bleed valve.


9. Close the air bleed valve and replace the fuel cap. 10. Start your engine and let it idle for five minutes. Check your fuel filter


and air bleed valve for leaks.


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Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines) If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation, North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LIH 8P7 Filling Your Tank


The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle.


A CAUTION:


Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from gasoline.


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While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door.


To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).


Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear a clicking noise.


1 NOTICE:


If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.


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Checking Things Under the Hood Hood Release


To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle.


Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the secondary hood release, located just to the passenger side of the center of the grill. Lift the hood.


Your vehicle, if it has air conditioning, may have a auxiliary engine fan in addition to the belt driven fan.


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Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly. Cleaning Your Diesel Engine


NOTICE: If you spray or pour water or any other liquid on your engine when it is warm or hot, or when it is running, you could cause serious damage to it. If you ever clean the engine, clean it only when it is cold.


Engine Oil (Gasoline Engines) It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.


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Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down.


When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.


NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


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The engine oil filler cap is located on the driver’s side engine valve cover. Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through. What Kind of Oil to Use Oils of the proper quality for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. The “Starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for use in your gasoline engine.


If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the “Starburst” symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.


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You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart: LIGHT DUTY EMISSIONS - GASOLINE ENGINES


RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS


FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE 011 FOR THE EXPECTEO TEMPERATURE RANGE.


HOT


WEATHER ' F


7 c


LOOK


FOR THIS SYMBOL


t 100


+ 80


+ 60


+ 40


+ 20


+38


- +27 - +16 - + 4


- - 7


- - 1 8


WEATHER


-- ....-


SAE 1OW-30


SAE 5W-30 PREFERRED


As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1 OW-30 if it's going to be 0°F (- 1 SOC) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.


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HEAVY DUTY EMISSIONS - GASOLINE ENGINES


RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS


FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAL VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.


~~


LOOK


FOR THIS SYMBOL


HOT


WEATHER / v " F


+lo0 c


- +38 t 8 Q - - +27 +60 - +16 +4Q - - + 4


SAE 1OW-30 PREFERRED


+20 ---7


0 - - - 1 8


SAE 5W-30


cola WEATHER


DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED


As shown in the chart, SAE IOW-30 is best for your vehicle. nowever, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it's going to be colder than 60°F ( I 6°C) before your next oil change. When it's very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.


6-1 8


NOTICE: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the proper oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.


GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle.


Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.


When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:


Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.


0 Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop and


go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas. You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently.


0 You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle.


If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. Light Duty Emissions: If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (1 2 500 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. Heavy Duty Emissions: If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. Engine Coolant Heater An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0°F (- 18OC) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index.


What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer‘? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. Engine Oil (Diesel Engines) It’s a good idea to check your engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.


Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


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To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down.


When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.


NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


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The engine oil filler cap is located on a filler tube at the front of the engine. Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.


Whaf Kind of Oil to Use Look for these two things:


CF-LC/SH CF-4/SH is the best oil for your vehicle. However, if you can not find CF-4/SH oil, you may use CF-4/SG or CE/SH or CE/SG oil. These may be listed as shown or in reverse order, for example SHKF-4. Other letters may also be listed, such as SH/CD, CE, CF-4. These letters show American Petroleum Institute (API) levels of quality.


NOTICE: If you use oils that don’t have these designations, you engine damage which is not covered by your warranty.


can cause


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DIESEL ENGINES


RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY 6RADE ENGINE OILS


SELECT THE SAE ORADE OIL BASED ON THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE


BEFORE NEXT 011 CHANGE


- SA€


30


HOT


WEATHER


+ 100


+ 38


/ O F


+BO - - + 18 +32 --


0 - 9


-20 -


COLD


WEATHER


SAE 15W-40 PREFERRED above 0°F (- 1 8°C)


SA€ 1 OW-30


DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED


SAE 15W-40 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 15W-40 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it's going to be colder than 32°F (0OC) before your next oil change. When it's very cold, below 0°F (-1 8OC), you should use SAE 1 OW-30 to improve cold starting. Also, SAE 30 may be used at temperatures above freezing, 32°F (OOC). These numbers on the oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE IOW-40 or SAE 2OW-50.


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This doughnut-shaped logo (symbol) is used on most oil containers to help you select the correct oil. You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that display the logo. GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle.


Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.


When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:


Most trips are less than 5 to I0 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.


0 Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop and


go traffic). You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently.


0 You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle.


If any of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 2,500 miles (4 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles (8 000 km) or I2 months - whichever comes first. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wdsh or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


Air Cleaner


To avoid the possibility of un-filtered air being drawn into the engine, make sure the air cleaner cover is on straight and the wing nuts are properly tightened. If there is an arrow on the air cleaner cover, it should point to the front of the engine. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air fi 1 ter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


NOTICE: If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.


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To remove the air cleaner filter on a gasoline engine or a 6.5 liter naturally aspirated diesel engine, turn the wing nuts to the left. Remove the cover and change the filter. To remove the air cleaner filter on a 6.5 liter turbocharged diesel engine, first remove the rubber elbow. Remember to observe the caution about turbocharger blades on the rubber elbow.


Then, unhook the cover retaining clips and push the rear of the cover toward the engine.


Automatic Transmission Nuid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.


NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.


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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:


0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C j,


At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.


0 While pulling a trailer.


To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). To check transmission fluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (1 0°C). If it's colder than 50°F (10"C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures. To check transmission fluid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (IO'C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level. lo check the fluid hot or cold 0 Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running.


With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.


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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a


clean rag or paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out


again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid


level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all


the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t int. Don 7 overfill. We recommend take much fluid, generally less than a you use only fluid labeled DEXRON -111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing.


How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.


I NOTICE:


Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.


Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.


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Then, follow these steps:


1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole. 3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If


the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.


How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the


fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. A slight amount of play (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) in the pedal is normal.


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When to Check and What to Use


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid.


See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


How to Check The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Rear Axle When to Checkand Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” How to Check Lubricant


6-3 1


What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four- Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case


When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.


How to Check Lubricant


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Front Axle


When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


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How to Check Lubricant


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. If the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch ( I 2 mm) below the filler plug hole.


What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your vehicle will:


Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 262°F (128°C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half c h i ? wcmr (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 6038-M,” which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to “GM


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Specification 6038-M.” Use GM Coolant Supplement (Sealer) with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.


NOTICE: If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.


Some conditions, such as air trapped in the cooling system, can affect the coolant level in the radiator. Check the coolant level when the engine is cold and follow the steps under “Adding Coolant” for the proper way to add coolant. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.


I NOTICE:


If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


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Adding Cooranr - Gasoline Engine


The coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger side at the rear corner of the engine compartment.


To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the HOT mark, or a little higher.


To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tank.


Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


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Adding Coolant - Diesel Engine


x "


The coolant surge tank is located on the passenger side at the rear corner of the engine compartment.


To Check Coolant


A CAUTION:


lbrning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.


cap -


When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark. or a little higher.


If this light comes on, it means you're low on engine coolant.


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To Add Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix crt the surge tunk, but only when the engine is cool. If the surge tank is empty, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index for the proper fill procedure.


A CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is tight.


Radiator Pressure Cap - Gasoline Engine


The radiator pressure cap must be tightly installed with the arrows on the cap lined up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.


NOTICE: Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.


Surge Tank Pressure Cap - Diesel Engine


The surge tank pressure cap must be tightly installed with the arrows on the cap lined up with the top tube of the coolant surge tank.


NOTICE: Your surge tank pressure cap is a unique 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap for use with surge tank cooling systems only. It must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the top tube of the coolant surge tank.


Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended.


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Power Steering Fluid


How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. Add enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


I I NOTICE:


When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


Hydro-Boost Brake System (Hydraulic Pump) The power steering pump is also used as the Hydro-boost pump. Refer to “Power Steering System” in this section when checking fluid level or adding fluid.


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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.


To Add


Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.


NOTICE:


When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


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Brakes


Brake Master Cylinder Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.


L m


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections’’ in the Index.


To Check Brake Fluid


You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the windows on the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid levels should be above MIN. If they aren’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the levels are above MIN and below the top of each window.


What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid - such as (GM Part No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a Delco Supreme 1 1 sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.


NOTICE:


Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.


so


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Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).


I NOTICE:


Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.


Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.


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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your vehicle does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in - be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Front Shock Absorbers The front shock absorbers of your vehicle do many things. They help the vehicle ride smoothly and also control the travel of the suspension system. When the shock absorbers are serviced, any replacement shock absorbers must be the same as the original equipment shock absorbers in both extended length and strength.


I NOTICE:


If you use shock absorbers that are not the same as the original shock absorbers, the shock absorbers or suspension system could be damaged.


Windshield Wiper Blade Inserts


To replace your windshield wiper blade inserts, lift the wiper arm and rotate the blade until it is facing away from the windshield.


Unlatch the end of the insert from the holding clips. Remove the insert and slide a new one in place. Make sure the blade is secured in the clips.


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Air Conditioning Every now and then have your dealership check your air conditioning system to be sure it has not lost any cooling ability. If you think the system is not working properly, have your dealership check it out as soon as possible. The air conditioning will not work when the temperature is below 40°F (4°C). Fluid Leak Check After the vehicle has been parked for a while, inspect the surface under the vehicle for water, oil, fuel or other fluids. Water dripping from the air conditioning system after it has been used is normal. If you notice fuel leaks or fumes, the causes should be found and corrected at once. Lock Cylinders To be sure your locks operate properly, they must be lubricated. Your vehicle’s maintenance schedule will tell you how often to lubricate them. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for the proper lubricant to use. You should not use penetrating oils because they could wash out the factory installed lubricant and cause the lock to bind. De-icers which contain alcohol could also wash away the lubricant, so be sure to lubricate the lock after using a de-icer of this type. Battery Every new GM vehicle has a Delco Freedom’ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom@ battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label.


Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


6-45


Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running.


Sealed Beam Headlamps


1. Remove the four screws from the headlamp retainer.


2. Pull the headlamp


out and remove the retainer.


3. Unplug and remove the headlamp. 4. Plug in the new headlamp and put it in place. 5. Install the retainer to the headlamp and tighten the screws.


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Halogen Bulbs


I A CAUTION:


if you Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Take special care when handling and disposing of halogen bulbs.


NOTICE: Avoid touching the bulb or letting it come in contact with anything damp. Oil from your skin or moisture on the bulb can cause the bulb to explode when it is turned on. If either comes in contact with the bulb, clean it with alcohol or a suitable degreaser and wipe the bulb dry.


Composite Headlamps


I .


Remove the two screws at the top of the radiator support.


2. Pull the headlamp


lens assembly out.


3. Unplug the


electrical connector.


4. Turn the bulb to


the left and remove it.


5. Put the new bulb in the lens assembly and turn it to the right until it is


tight.


6. Plug in the electrical connector. 7. Put the headlamp lens assembly back into the vehicle. Install and


tighten the two screws.


Front ParkingYTurn Signal Lamps with Sealed Beam Headlamps


1. Remove the two


screws at the inside edge of the parkingkurn signal lamp assembly.


2.


Remove the lamp assembly by swinging it out from the inside edge and sliding it out at the outside edge.


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3. Squeeze the tab on the side of the lamp socket while turning the socket to the left.


4. Pull the socket out of the lamp assembly.


Au


5. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it to the left and remove it from the


socket.


6. Put the new bulb in the socket, gently press in on the bulb and turn it to


the right until it is tight.


7. Put the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn it to the right until


it locks.


8. Put the parkinghurn signal lamp assembly back into the vehicle and


tighten the screws.


Front Parkingflurn Signal Lamps with Composite Headlamps


I .


Remove the screws and take out the parkinghrn signal lamp assembly.


2. Squeeze the tab on the side of the lamp socket while turning the socket to the left.


_rY


6-49


3. Pull the socket out of the lamp assembly.


4. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it to the left and remove it from the socket.


5. Put the new bulb in the socket, gently press in on the bulb and turn it to


the right until it is tight.


6. Put the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn it socket to the


right until it locks.


7. Put the parkinghrn signal lamp assembly back into the vehicle and


tighten the screws.


Side Marker Lamps with Sealed Beam and Composite Headlamps


1. Remove the


screws and pull out the parkinghurn signal lamp assembly.


2. Reach through the opening and turn the side marker bulb socket to the left and remove it.


6-SO


3.


4.


Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight.


5. Put the socket back into the side marker assembly and turn it to the


right to tighten it.


6. Replace the parkinghrn signal lamp assembly and tighten the screws. Roof Marker Lamps 1. Remove the screws and lift off the lens. 2. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 3. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight. 4. Replace the lens and tighten the screws.


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Center High Mount Stoplamp (CHMSL)


The individual bulbs in the CHMSL are not replaceable. See your dealer for assistance.


Rear Lamps 1. Open the tailgate or rear doors. 2. Remove the two black plastic plugs in the rear lamp assembly access


holes.


3. Remove the two


rear lamp assembly screws inside the fender and pull out the lamp assembly. You may want to use a magnetic screwdriver when removing the screws.


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4. Remove the


screws from the bulb retainer and take the bulb retainer off of the lamp assembly. 5. Pull the old bulb straight out of the socket .


6. Put in a new bulb and push it in until it is tight. 7. Replace the bulb retainer. 8. Replace the rear lamp assembly and tighten the screws. You may want


to use a magnetic screwdriver when installing the screws.


9. Close the tailgate or rear doors. Exhaust System To help prevent damage to your exhaust system, do not continue to drive your vehicle if you notice:


Engine misfiring Loss of performance


0 Exhaust system components hanging lower than normal


Loud exhaust system noises


0 Other unusual operating conditions


Have your engine and exhaust system serviced regularly.


Three- Way Catalytic Converter (Gasoline Engines) Your vehicle’s three-way catalytic converter is designed to reduce the pollutants in your vehicle’s exhaust. Use only unleaded fuel in your vehicle. If you use leaded fuel, you could damage your three-way catalytic converter and other engine components. Oxidation Catalytic Converter (Diesel Engines) Your vehicle’s oxidation catalytic converter is designed to reduce the particulates in your vehicle’s exhaust. If your vehicle’s oxidation catalytic converter ever needs to be replaced, it must be replaced with an oxidation converter intended for use with diesel engines only.


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Engine Control Module System


Gasoline Engines This system has an oxygen sensor (OS) that helps keep your engine’s air-fuel mixture at a proper level. Use only unleaded fuel in your vehicle. If you use leaded fuel, you could damage your oxygen sensor (OS) and three-way catalytic converter.


Diesel Vehicles Below 8,500 (3 850 Kg) GVWR This system monitors engine speed and throttle position. It adjusts exhaust gas recirculation to limit emissions.


Malfunction Indicator (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) Light The Malfunction Indicator (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) Light on your instrument panel lets you know when your emission system needs service. The light will come on briefly when you start your engine to let you know that the system is working. If it does not come on when you start your engine, or if it comes on and stays on while you’re driving, your system may need service. Your vehicle should still be driveable, but you should have your system serviced right away.


Secondary Air Injection Reaction (AIR) System (Gasoline Engines) You may have this system. It has a control valve that will direct air to where it is needed. If the AIR system needs service, your Malfunction Indicator (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) Lamp on your instrument panel will come on. Tires We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. These tires are warranted by the tire manufacturers, and their warranties are delivered with every new vehicle. If your spare tire is a different brand than your road tires, you will have a tire warranty folder from each of these manufacturers.


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Inflation - lire Pressure The CertificationD’ire label which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, or on the incomplete vehicle document in the cab, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires, when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than a mile. You can operate some vehicles at reduced inflation pressures only when you’ll be carrying reduced loads. On those vehicles, the minimum cold inflation pressures for a typical reduced load are printed on the “Improved Ride Tire Pressure” label located on the driver’s door. Weigh the vehicle to find the load on each tire and see the label for the minimum cold inflation pressures for that load.


6-55


NOTICE: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation) you can get:


Too much flexing


0 Too much heat


Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling


0 Bad fuel economy. If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get:


Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.


When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.


How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. Simply looking at the tires will not tell you the pressure, especially if you have radial tires - which may look properly inflated even if they’re underinflated. If your tires have valve caps, be sure to put them back on. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km) for any signs of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When it’s Time for New Tires’’ and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information.


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The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.


FRT


FRT


When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here.


After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the CertificatiodTire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.


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When it’s Time for New Tires


Tread Wear Indicators One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need a new tire if


0 You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. e You can see cord or fidbric showing through the tire’s rubber.


The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.


0 The tire has a bump, bulge or split. 0 The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that can’t be repaired well


because of the size or location of the damage.


Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.


Uniform lire Qualify Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half ( I 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - A, B, C The traction grades. from highest to lowest are: A, B, and C. They represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight-ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction. Temperature - A, 6, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire fdilure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.


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Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. These grades are molded on the sidewalls of passenger car tires. While the tires available as standard or optional equipment on General Motors vehicles may vary with respect to these grades, all such tires meet General Motors performance standards and have been approved for use on General Motors vehicles. All passenger type (P Metric) tires must conform to Federal safety requirements in addition to these grades.


Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels aligned again. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.


Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


I NOTICE:


The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.


Used Replacement Wheels


Tire Chains


NOTICE: If your vehicle has LT265/75R16 size tires, don't use tire chains; they can damage your vehicle. If you have a tire size other than LT26975R16, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Don't use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer's instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


Appearance Care


. .. . ..


Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufxturer's warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you're cleaning the inside.


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Never use these to clean your vehicle:


0 Gasoline Benzene Naphtha


0 Carbon Tetrachloride


Acetone Paint Thinner Turpentine


0 Lacquer Thinner 0 Nail Polish Remover


They can all be hazardous - some more than others - and they can all damage your vehicle, too. Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:


Alcohol Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents


Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth. Your GM dealer has two GM cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. Do not use them on vinyl or leather. Here are some cleaning tips:


0 Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. 0 Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set. 0 Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft


brush may be used if stains are stubborn. Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area only. If you use them, don’t saturate the stained area.


0 If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or


it will set.


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Using Foam-Type Cleaner on Fabric


Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.


0 Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following the directions on the


container label. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate the material. Don’t rub it roughly. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove the suds.


0 Rinse the section with a clean, wet sponge.


Wipe off what’s left with a slightly damp paper towel or cloth. Then dry it immediately with a blow dryer or a heat lamp.


NOTICE: Be careful. A blow dryer may scorch the fabric.


0 Wipe with a clean cloth. Using Solvent-Type Cleaner on Fabric First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all. Some spots and stains will clean off better with iust water and mild soap. If you need to use a solvent:


Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with a clean, dull knife or scraper. Use very little cleaner, light pressure and clean cloths (preferably cheesecloth). Cleaning should start at the outside of the stain, “feathering” toward the center. Keep changing to a clean section of the cloth. When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately dry the area with a blow dryer to help prevent a cleaning ring. (See the previous NOTICE.)


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Fabric Protection Your vehicle has upholstery and carpet that has been treated with Scotchgard TM Fabric Protector, a 3M product. Scotchgard TM protects fabrics by repelling oil and water, which are the carriers of most stains. Even with this protection, you still need to clean your upholstery and carpet often to keep it looking new. Further information on cleaning is available by calling 1-800-433-3296 Minnesota, 1-800-642-6 167).


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Special Cleaning Problems


Greasy or Oily Stains Stains caused by grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe polish, coffee with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt can be removed as follows:


0 Carefully scrape off excess stain.


Follow the solvent-type instructions described earlier. Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain if left on a vehicle seat fabric. They should be removed as soon as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner will dissolve them and may cause them to spread.


Non-Greasy Stains Stains caused by catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows:


Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water.


0 If a stain remains, follow the foam-type instructions described earlier. 0 If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a


watedbaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water. If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.


Combination Stains Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows:


Carefully scrape off excess stain, then clean with cool water and allow to dry.


0 If a stain remains, clean it with solvent-type cleaner.


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Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth.


Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do it more than once.


0 Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them


off quickly. Use a clean cloth and GM vinyl/leather cleaner.


Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap.


For stubborn stains, use GM vinyl/leather cleaner. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather. Soiled leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into finish, it can harm the leather,


Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.


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