2001 Chevrolet Silverado Owners Manual

your speed. Don’t use more power than you need, because you don’t want your wheels to start spinning or sliding.

D Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible.

If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

CAUTION:

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

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Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about

to stall, and I can’t make it up the hill?

A: If this happens, there are some things you should

do, and there are some things you must not do. First, here’s what you should do:

D Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and

keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.

D If your engine is still running, shift the transmission

to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).

D If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, shift to NEUTRAL (N) if your vehicle has a manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).

D As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand

on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill.

D Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into NEUTRAL (N) (or depressing the clutch, if you have a manual transmission) to “rev-up” the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

D Never attempt to turn around if you are about to

stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

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Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down

the hill and decide I just can’t do it. What should I do?

A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission in FIRST (1)) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

CAUTION:

Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) (or, if you have the manual transmission, even if you’re in gear). This is because the NEUTRAL position on the transfer case overrides the transmission.

CAUTION: (Continued)

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CAUTION: (Continued)

You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, put your manual transmission in FIRST (1)). But do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the transfer case in the 2 Wheel High, 4 High or 4 Low position.

Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to consider a number of things: D How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain

vehicle control?

D What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery?

Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

D Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts?

Logs? Boulders?

D What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden

creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

CAUTION:

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

Q: Are there some things I should not do

when driving down a hill?

A: Yes! These are important because if you

ignore them you could lose control and have a serious accident.

D When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down.

D Never go downhill with the transmission in

NEUTRAL (N), or with the clutch pedal pressed down in a manual shift. This is called “free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill? A: It’s much more likely to happen going uphill.

But if it happens going downhill, here’s what to do.

D Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.

Apply the parking brake.

D Shift to PARK (P) (or to NEUTRAL (N) with the

manual transmission) and, while still braking, restart the engine.

D Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,

and drive straight down.

D If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.

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D Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the

incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.

For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

CAUTION:

Driving across an incline that’s too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, don’t drive across it. Find another route instead.

Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider: D A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

D Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over.

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Q: What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do?

A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

Stalling on an Incline If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

CAUTION:

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

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Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances. It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud -- the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck. When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction. Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

CAUTION:

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

Driving in Water Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or exhaust pipe, don’t try it -- you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts.

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After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

CAUTION:

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing water.

See “Driving Through Water” in the Index for more information on driving through water.

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Driving at Night

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

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Here are some tips on night driving. D Drive defensively. D Don’t drink and drive. D Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the

glare from headlamps behind you.

D Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.

D Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your

headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.

D In remote areas, watch for animals. D If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place

and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.

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The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.

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Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water

NOTICE:

If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Driving Through Flowing Water

CAUTION:

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and the other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips D Turn on your low-beam headlamps -- not just

your parking lamps -- to help make you more visible to others.

D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

D Have good tires with proper tread depth.

See “Tires” in the Index.

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City Driving

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: D Know the best way to get to where you are

going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”

D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.

At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit.

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The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.

Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

Here are some things you can check before a trip: D Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?

Are all windows clean inside and outside?

D Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? D Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked

all levels?

D Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? D Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,

trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

D Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?

D Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a

comfortably cool interior.

D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently.

D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. See “Off-Road Driving” in the Index for information about driving off-road. D Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid

levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

D Know how to go down hills. The most important

thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

CAUTION:

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

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CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

D Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.

D Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane

roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving: D Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

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Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. ’If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index. D Allow greater following distance on any

slippery road.

D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be

fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

D Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that

you’ve been stopped by the snow.

D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: D Turn on your hazard flashers.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

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CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

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Recreational Vehicle Towing There may be times when you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for use at your destination. Be sure to use the proper towing equipment designed for recreational vehicle towing. Follow the instructions for the towing equipment. When towing your vehicle, turn the ignition to OFF. To prevent your battery from draining while towing, remove the IGN 0 fuse from the instrument panel fuse block. Be sure to replace the fuse when you reach your destination. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index.

Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Two-wheel-drive vehicles, should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground. In rare cases when it’s unavoidable that a two-wheel-drive vehicle is to be towed with all four wheels on the ground, the propeller shaft to axle yoke orientation should be marked and the propeller shaft removed following the applicable service manual removal/installation procedure. Dust or dirt can enter the back of the transmission through the opening created by removing the propeller shaft if proper protection is not provided. Also, check the transmission fluid level before driving the truck.

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Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

CAUTION:

Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL.

Use the following procedure to correctly tow your vehicle on all four wheels: 1. Firmly set the parking brake. 2. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P),

or a manual transmission to FIRST (1).

3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the

tow vehicle.

4. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N).

See “Four-Wheel Drive” in the Index for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.

5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle

being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle. 6. Turn the ignition to OFF. The OFF position unlocks

the steering column and reduces battery drain as long as the IGN 0 fuse is removed. Unlocking the steering column will allow the proper movement of the front wheels and tires during towing.

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Loading Your Vehicle

The Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document in the cab. The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.

The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. The Certification/Tire label also contains information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. See “Front Axle Reserve Capacity” later in this section. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

CAUTION:

In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things carried in the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.

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CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading. This will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else -- they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. D Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle.

Try to spread the weight evenly.

D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint

in your vehicle.

D When you carry something inside the

vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

D Don’t leave a seat folded down unless

you need to.

There’s also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” in the Index.

4-48

Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment Before installing a snow plow on your vehicle, here are some things you’ll need to know:

NOTICE:

If your vehicle doesn’t have the snow plow prep package, adding a plow can damage your vehicle, and the repairs wouldn’t be covered by warranty. Unless your vehicle was built to carry a snow plow, don’t add one to your vehicle. If your vehicle has the snow plow option called RPO VYU (snow plow prep package), then the payload your vehicle can carry will be reduced when a snow plow is installed. Your vehicle can be damaged if either the front or rear axle ratings, or the GVW, are exceeded.

Q: How do I know if my vehicle can handle a

snow plow?

A: Some vehicles are built with a special package, called RPO VYU (snow plow prep package). If your vehicle has this option, you can add a plow to it, provided certain weights, such as the weights on the vehicle’s axles and the GVW, aren’t exceeded.

Q: How heavy can a snow plow safely be? A: The plow your vehicle can carry depends on many

things, such as:

D The options your vehicle came with, and the weight

of those options,

D The weight and number of passengers you intend

to carry,

D The weight of items you’ve added to your vehicle,

like a tool box or truck cap,

4-49

D The total weight of any additional cargo you intend

to carry.

Say, for example, you have a 700 lb. (318 kg) snow plow. The total weight of all occupants and cargo inside the cab should not exceed 300 lb. (135 kg). This means that you may only be able to carry one passenger. But, even this may be too much if you’ve got other equipment already adding to the weight of your vehicle. Here are some guidelines for safely carrying a snow plow on your vehicle:

D Make sure the weight on the front and rear axles

doesn’t exceed the axle rating for each.

D For the front axle, if more cargo or passengers

must be carried, appropriate counter ballast must be installed rear of the rear axle. Counter ballast must be properly secured so it won’t move during driving.

D Follow the snow plow manufacturer’s

recommendations regarding rear ballast. Rear ballast may be required to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual weight at the front axle may be less than the front axle rating.

D The snow plow manufacturer or installer can

assist you in determining the amount of rear ballast required, to help make sure your snowplow/vehicle combination does not exceed the GVW rating, the front and rear axle ratings, and the front and rear weight distribution ratio.

D The total vehicle must not exceed the GVW rating.

4-50

Q: What is front axle reserve capacity, and how

do I calculate it?

A: Front axle reserve capacity is the difference between your front GAWR and the front axle weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers. Basically, it’s the amount of weight you can add to your front axle before reaching your front GAWR.

The front axle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the tire/certification label.

In order to calculate the amount of weight any front accessory, such as a snow plow, is adding to the front axle, use the following formula:

(W x (A + W.B))/W.B.= Weight the accessory is adding to the front axle. Where: W=Weight of added accessory A=Distance that the accessory is in front of the A=front axle W.B.=Vehicle Wheelbase

4-51

For example, adding a 700 lb. (318 kg) snow plow actually adds more than 700 lb. (318 kg) to the front axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft. (122 cm) in front of the front axle and the wheel base is 10 ft. (305 cm), then: W=700 lb. (318 kg) A=4 ft. (122 cm) W.B.=10 ft. (305 cm) (W x (A + W.B.))/W.B.= (700 x (4 + 10))/10 = 980 lb. (445 kg) So, if your truck’s front axle reserve capacity is more than 980 lb. (445 kg), you could add this snow plow without exceeding the front GAWR. Q: What if I want to add heavier equipment to

my vehicle?

A: You can add heavier equipment on the front of the vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo more towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear GAWR and the GVWR must never be exceeded.

4-52

CAUTION:

On some vehicles equipped with certain front mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it may be possible to load the front axle to the front GAWR but not have enough weight on the rear axle to have proper braking performance. If your brakes can’t work properly, you could have a crash. To help your brakes work properly when a snow plow is installed, always follow the snow plow manufacturer or installer’s recommendation for rear ballast to ensure a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio, even though the actual front weight may be less than the front GAWR, and the total vehicle weight is less than the GVWR. Maintaining a proper front and rear weight distribution ratio is necessary to provide proper braking performance.

Q: What is total vehicle reserve capacity? A: This is the difference between your GVWR and the weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers. It’s the amount of weight you can add to your vehicle before reaching your GVWR.

Keep in mind that reserve capacity numbers are intended as a guide when selecting the amount of equipment or cargo your truck can carry. If you are unsure of your truck’s front, rear or total weight, go to a weight station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can also help you with this. See your dealer for additional advice and information about using a snow plow on your vehicle. Also, see “Loading Your Vehicle” earlier in this section.

Truck-Camper Loading Information This label is inside your glove box. It will tell you if your vehicle can carry a slide-in camper, how much of a load your vehicle can carry, and how to correctly spread out your load. Also, it will help you match the right slide-in camper to your vehicle. When you carry a slide-in camper, the total cargo load of your vehicle is the weight of the camper, plus D everything else added to the camper after it left

the factory,

D everything in the camper and D all the people inside. The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But, you can figure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.

4-53

Refer to the Truck-Camper Loading Information label in glove box for dimensions A and B as shown in the following illustration.

Here is an example of proper truck and camper match:

Use the rear edge of the load floor for measurement purposes. The recommended location for the cargo center of gravity is at point C for the CWR. It is the point where the mass of a body is concentrated and, if suspended at that point, would balance the front and rear.

4-54

A. Camper Center of Gravity B. Recommended Center of Gravity Location Zone

The camper’s center of gravity should fall within the center of gravity zone for your vehicle’s cargo load. You must weigh any accessories or other equipment that you add to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone of your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. If your slide-in camper and its load weighs less than the CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger.

Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle-camper match. He’ll also help you determine your CWR. After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and weigh the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on your axles. The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more than either of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads should not be more than the GVWR. Open your driver’s door and look at the Certification/Tire label to find out your GAWR and GVWR. If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take out some things until all the weight falls below the ratings. Of course, you should always tie down any loose items when you load your vehicle or camper. When you install and load your slide-in camper, check the manufacturer’s instructions. If you want more information on curb weights, cargo weights, Cargo Weight Rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help you. Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information, Truck-Camper Loading.”

Trailer Recommendations You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the equalizer bars in place. You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information, see “Trailer Towing” in the Index.

Camper Wiring Harness (If Equipped) If your vehicle is equipped with a camper wiring harness, see “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index for further information.

4-55

Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. Before you do so, first contact the GM Customer Assistance Office for your area for information on such conversions specific to this vehicle. See the “Warranty and Owner Assistance” booklet for Customer Assistance Office. Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which may affect vehicle safety. The components necessary to adapt a pickup to permit its safe use with a specialized body should be installed by a body builder in accordance with the information available from the Customer Assistance Office.

Towing a Trailer

CAUTION:

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

4-56

NOTICE:

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Additional rear rear axle maintenance is required for a vehicle used to tow a trailer. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.

That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: D There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

D Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh less than the capacity stamped on your step bumper. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than the capacity stamped on your step bumper. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

4-57

D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you

tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

D If you have an automatic transmission, you can

tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). See “Tow/Haul Mode” in the Index.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: D the weight of the trailer, D the weight of the trailer tongue D and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.

Tow/Haul Mode (If Equipped) Tow/haul is a feature on automatic transmission equipped vehicles that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to: D Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability

of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

D Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a

heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded.

D Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring

less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

Automatic transmission equipped vehicles are provided with a button at the end of the shift lever which when pressed enables tow/haul. When the button is pressed, a light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that tow/haul has been selected. Tow/haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off tow/haul every time it is started.

4-58

Tow/haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). Tow/haul is most useful under the following driving conditions: D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

through rolling terrain.

D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

in stop and go traffic.

D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load

in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.

Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of tow/haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. Use one of the following charts to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Above the 5,000 lbs. (2 268 kg) trailer rating, the handling/trailering suspension is required on C-1500
models and the handling/trailering or off-road suspension is required on K-1500 models. The engine oil cooler is required on C/K-2500 models with the VORTEC 6000 engine. Refer to the Trailering Guide for oil cooler recommendations.

4-59

C-1500 Regular Cab Short Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.)

Max. Trailer Wt.

C-1500 Extended Cab Short Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.)

Max. Trailer Wt.

4300 V6 (Auto)

4300 V6 (Manual)

4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

Axle Ratio 3.08
3.42
3.08
3.42
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73

4,700 lbs. (2 132 kg) 5,200 lbs. (2 359 kg) 3,700 lbs. (1 678 kg) 4,200 lbs. (1 905 kg) 6,600 lbs. (2 994 kg) 7,600 lbs. (3 447 kg) 4,600 lbs. (2 087 kg) 5,600 lbs. (2 540 kg) 7,600 lbs. (3 447 kg) 8,600 lbs. (3 901 kg)

4300 V6 (Auto)

4300 V6 (Manual) 4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

Axle Ratio 3.42
3.73
3.42
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73

4,900 lbs. (2 223 kg) 5,900 lbs. (2 676 kg) 3,900 lbs. (1 769 kg) 6,300 lbs. (2 858 kg) 7,300 lbs. (3 311 kg) 4,300 lbs. (1 950 kg) 5,300 lbs. (2 404 kg) 7,300 lbs. (3 311 kg) 8,300 lbs. (3 765 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 1,500 lb. (680 kg) maximum.

4-60

C-1500 Crew Cab Short Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.)

Max. Trailer Wt.

C-1500 Extended Cab Long Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.)

Max. Trailer Wt.

6000 V8

8,300 lbs. (3 765 kg) 10,300 lbs. (4 672 kg)

C-1500 Regular Cab Long Box (2WD)* Engine (Trans.)

Max. Trailer Wt.

4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

Axle Ratio 3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73

6,100 lbs. (2 767 kg) 7,100 lbs. (3 220 kg) 4,100 lbs. (1 860 kg) 5,100 lbs. (2 313 kg) 7,100 lbs. (3 220 kg) 8,100 lbs. (3 674 kg)

Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10

Axle Ratio 3.08
3.42
3.08
3.42
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73

4300 V6 (Auto)

4300 V6 (Manual)

4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

4,600 lbs. (2 087 kg) 5,100 lbs. (2 313 kg) 3,600 lbs. (1 633 kg) 4,100 lbs. (1 860 kg) 6,500 lbs. (2 948 kg) 7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg) 4,500 lbs. (2 041 kg) 5,500 lbs. (2 495 kg) 7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 856 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 1,500 lb. (680 kg) maximum.

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K-1500 Regular Cab Short Box (4WD)* Engine (Trans.)

Max. Trailer Wt.

K-1500 Extended Cab Short Box (4WD)* Engine (Trans.)

Max. Trailer Wt.

4300 V6 (Auto)

4300 V6 (Manual)

4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

Axle Ratio 3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10

4,900 lbs. (2 223 kg) 5,400 lbs. (2 449 kg) 3,900 lbs. (1 769 kg) 4,400 lbs. (1 996 kg) 7,300 lbs. (3 311 kg) 8,300 lbs. (3 765 kg) 5,300 lbs. (2 404 kg) 6,300 lbs. (2 858 kg) 8,300 lbs. (3 765 kg) 9,300 lbs. (4 218 kg)

4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 629 kg) 5,000 lbs. (2 268 kg) 6,000 lbs. (2 624 kg) 8,000 lbs. (3 629 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 082 kg)

K-1500 Crew Cab Short Box (4WD)* Engine (Trans.)

Max. Trailer Wt.

6000 V8

8,000 lbs. (3 629 kg) 10,000 lbs. (4 536 kg)

Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10

Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 1,500 lb. (680 kg) maximum.

4-62

K-1500 Regular Cab Long Box (4WD)* Engine (Trans.)

Max. Trailer Wt.

K-1500 Extended Cab Long Box (4WD)* Engine (Trans.)

Max. Trailer Wt.

4300 V6 (Auto)

4300 V6 (Manual)

4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

Axle Ratio 3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10

4800 V8 (Auto)

4800 V8 (Manual)

5300 V8

4,800 lbs. (2 177 kg) 5,300 lbs. (2 404 kg) 3,800 lbs. (1 724 kg) 4,300 lbs. (1 950 kg) 7,200 lbs. (3 266 kg) 8,200 lbs. (3 719 kg) 5,200 lbs. (2 359 kg) 6,200 lbs. (2 812 kg) 8,200 lbs. (3 719 kg) 9,200 lbs. (4 173 kg)

Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10
3.73
4.10

6,800 lbs. (3 084 kg) 7,800 lbs. (3 538 kg) 4,800 lbs. (2 177 kg) 5,800 lbs. (2 631 kg) 7,800 lbs. (3 538 kg) 8,800 lbs. (3 992 kg)

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 1,500 lb. (680 kg) maximum.

4-63

C-2500 (2WD)* Engine

6000 V8

Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10

Max. Trailer Wt.

8,800 lbs. (3 992 kg) 10,800 lbs. (4 899 kg)

C-2500 Regular Cab Long Box HD (2WD)* Engine Max. Trailer Wt.

6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

10,600 lbs. (3 402 kg) 13,900 lbs. (6 311 kg)** 15,900 lbs. (7 212 kg)** 15,900 lbs. (7 212 kg)** 15,900 lbs. (7 212 kg)**

C-2500 Extended Cab Short Box HD (2WD)* Max. Trailer Wt. Engine

6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

10,500 lbs. (4 763 kg) 13,800 lbs. (6 260 kg)** 15,800 lbs. (7 167 kg)** 15,700 lbs. (7 121 kg)** 15,700 lbs. (7 121 kg)**

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum. 4-64

C-2500 Extended Cab Long Box HD (2WD)* Max. Trailer Wt. Engine

C-2500 Crew Cab Short Box HD (2WD)* Engine

Max. Trailer Wt.

6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

10,200 lbs. (4 627 kg) 13,400 lbs. (6 078 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)** 14,900 lbs. (6 758 kg)** 14,900 lbs. (6 758 kg)**

6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

10,300 lbs. (4 672 kg) 13,600 lbs. (6 169 kg)** 15,600 lbs. (7 076 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)**

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum.

4-65

C-2500 Crew Cab Long Box HD (2WD)* Engine

Max. Trailer Wt.

K-2500 Extended Cab Short Box HD (4WD)* Max. Trailer Wt. Engine

6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

10,200 lbs. (4 627 kg) 13,500 lbs. (6 123 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 14,900 lbs. (6 758 kg)** 14,900 lbs. (6 758 kg)**

6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

10,200 lbs. (4 627 kg) 13,500 lbs. (6 123 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)**

K-2500 Extended Cab Short Box (4WD)* Engine

Max. Trailer Wt.

6000 V8

8,300 lbs. (3 765 kg) 10,300 lbs. (4 672 kg)

Axle Ratio 3.73
4.10

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum.

4-66

K-2500 Regular Cab Long Box HD (4WD)* Max. Trailer Wt. Engine

K-2500 Extended Cab Long Box HD (4WD)* Max. Trailer Wt. Engine

6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

10,400 lbs. (4 717 kg) 13,700 lbs. (6 214 kg)** 15,700 lbs. (7 121 kg)** 15,600 lbs. (7 076 kg)** 15,600 lbs. (7 076 kg)**

6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

10,200 lbs. (4 627 kg) 13,500 lbs. (6 123 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)**

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum.

4-67

K-2500 Crew Cab Short Box HD (4WD)* Engine

Max. Trailer Wt.

K-2500 Crew Cab Long Box HD (4WD)* Engine

Max. Trailer Wt.

6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

10,000 lbs. (4 536 kg) 13,200 lbs. (5 987 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)**

6000 V8
8100 V8

Axle Ratio 4.10
3.73
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

9,900 lbs. (4 491 kg) 13,200 lbs. (5 987 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)** 15,100 lbs. (6 849 kg)** 15,100 lbs. (6 849 kg)**

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum. 4-68

C-3500 Regular Cab HD (2WD)* Engine

Max. Trailer Wt.

Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
8100 V8
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
8100 V8
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73

10,400 lbs. (4 717 kg) 15,700 lbs. (7 121 kg)** 15,800 lbs. (7 167 kg)** 15,800 lbs. (7 167 kg)**

10,100 lbs. (4 581 kg) 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)** 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)**

C-3500 Crew Cab (2WD)* Engine

Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
8100 V8
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

Max. Trailer Wt.

9,900 lbs. (4 491 kg) 15,300 lbs. (6 940 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)**

Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
4.10
8100 V8
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

10,100 lbs. (4 582 kg) 15,500 lbs. (7 031 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)** 15,400 lbs. (6 985 kg)**

C-3500 Extended Cab (2WD)* Engine

Max. Trailer Wt.

K-3500 Regular Cab (4WD)* Engine

Max. Trailer Wt.

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum.

4-69

K-3500 Extended Cab (4WD)* Engine

Max. Trailer Wt.

Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
8100 V8
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

9,800 lbs. (4 445 kg) 15,100 lbs. (6 849 kg)** 14,800 lbs. (6 713 kg)** 14,800 lbs. (6 713 kg)**

K-3500 Crew Cab (4WD)* Engine

Axle Ratio 4.10
6000 V8
8100 V8
4.10
6600 V8 Diesel 3.73
4.10

Max. Trailer Wt.

9,800 lbs. (4 445 kg) 15,100 lbs. (6 849 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)** 15,200 lbs. (6 895 kg)**

* Weight-distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of trailer weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum. Fifth-wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of trailer weight 2,500 lb. (1 134 kg) maximum. ** Fifth-wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 12,000 lbs. (5 443 kg) maximum. 4-70

You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

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If you’re using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.

Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: D If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper

could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.

D If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will

weigh more than the capacity stamped on your step bumper, be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

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Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. For trailers up to 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) you may attach the safety chains to the attaching points on the bumper. For heavier trailers, follow the trailer or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.

Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if: D The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi

(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

D The trailer’s brake system will use less than

0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.

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Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods of sunshine, the floor of the truck bed may become very warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed that might be affected by high ambient temperatures. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

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Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).

You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode” in the Index. If you have a 5-speed manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). If you have a 6-speed manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use SIXTH (6) gear. Drive in FIFTH (5) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

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Parking on Hills

CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet for an automatic transmission, or into gear for a manual transmission.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.

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5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure

the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in NEUTRAL (N).

6. Release the regular brakes.

CAUTION:

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: D Start your engine; D Shift into a gear; and D Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle is equipped with one of the following wiring harnesses for towing a trailer or hauling a slide-in camper.

Basic Trailer Wiring Package All regular, extended cab crew cab pickups have a six-wire trailer towing harness.

The six-wire harness is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness requires the installation of a trailer-wiring harness connector, which is available through your dealer.

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The six-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal D Brown: Taillamps D White: Ground D Light Green: Back-up Lamps D Light Blue: Center High-Mounted

Stoplamp (CHMSL)

If you need to upgrade your vehicle to heavy-duty trailering, a brake controller harness and an underbody harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector are available from your dealer.

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Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package (If Equipped)

Your pickup may be equipped with the eight-wire trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the platform hitch.*