2003 Chevrolet S10 Owners Manual

Jump Starting ............................................... 5-47 Rear Axle ...................................................... -5-52 Four-wheel Drive ............................................ 5-53 Front Axle .................................................... -5-54 Bulb Replacement .......................................... 5-55 Halogen Bulbs .............................................. 5-55 Headlamps .................................................. 5-55 One-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps ................ 5-57 Two-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps ................ 5-58 Center High-Mounted

Stoplamp (CHMSL) .................................... 5-59 Taillamps ..................................................... 5-60 Replacement Bulbs ...................................... -5-60

5-1

Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement .............. 5.61 Tires ............................................................. 5-64 Inflation .. Tire Pressure ................................ 5.65 Tire Inspection and Rotation ....................... 5.66 When It Is Time for New Tires ................... 5-67 Buying New Tires ......................................... 5-68 Uniform Tire Quality Grading .......................... 5-69 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance .................. 5-70 Wheel Replacement ...................................... 5.70 Tire Chains .................................................. 5-72 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................ 5.72 Changing a Flat Tire ..................................... 5-73 Compact Spare Tire ...................................... 5-85 5-86 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .............. 5-86 Care of Safety Belts ................................... 5-89 Weatherstrips ............................................ 5-89 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . 5-89

Appearance Care ............................................

Sheet Metal Damage ..................................... 5-91 Finish Damage ............................................. 5-91 Underbody Maintenance .............................. -5-92 Chemical Paint Spotting ............................... - 5 - 9 2 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ........... 5-92 Vehicle Identification ..................................... 5-94 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................. 5-94 Service Parts Identification Label .................... 5-94 Electrical System ........................................... 5-95 Add-on Electrical Equipment .......................... 5-95 Headlamps .................................................. 5-95 Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................ 5-95 ....... 5-95 Power Windows and Other Power Options Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................ 5-95 Capacities and Specifications ........................ 5-101 Capacities and Specifications ........................ 5-102 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts ......... 5-103

5-2

Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7- I 1. Your vehicle may have an air bag system. If it does, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-64 before attempting to do your own service work.

5-3

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Part E: Maintenance Record on page 6-34.

.hide coc.. -1 be You can be injurec nd your damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

5-4

Gasoline Specifications

It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-94.

Gasoline Octane

Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

Canada Only

5-5

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system petformance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction lndicator Lamp on page 3-34 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

5-6

Nofice; Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

Filling Your Tank

CAUTION:

Fuel vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel.

The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

5-7

ng If you get fuel on yourself ai-- then some ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

While refueling, hang the cap by the tether from the hook on the fuel filler door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

5-8

Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-89. When filling the tank do not overfill by squeezing in much more fuel after the pump shuts off. When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-34.

Notice; If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

container wl ..A it is in Never fill a p ~ ~ a b l , ....,I your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. 0 Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete. Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

5-9

Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

1 Pull the handle located

inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

I I

Things L,,t burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

2. Lift the hood.

5-1 0

3. Release the hood prop from its retainer and put the

hood prop into the slot in the hood.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then, pull the hood down firmly to close. It will latch when dropped from about 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) without pressing on the hood.

5-1 1

A. Battery B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Automatic Transmission Dipstick D. Engine Oil Fill Cap and Dipstick E. Power Steering Reservoir

F. Brake Master Cylinder G. Engine Air CleanedFilter H. Engine Compartment Fuse Block I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

5-1 3

When you open the hood on the 4300 V6 engine, you'll see:

A. Battery B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Engine Oil Dipstick D. Engine Oil Fill E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If Equipped) 5-1 4

F. Power Steering Reservoir G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir H. Engine Air CleanedFilter I. Engine Compartment Fuse Block J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir

Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

5-1 5

L

If you have the 2200 L4 engine, the engine oil fill cap is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger's side of the vehicle. If you have the 4300 V6 engine, it is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the-driver's side of the vehicle.

7 I

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you'll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5- IO 1. Notice: Don't add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you're through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

5-1 6

If you choose to perform the engine oil change service yourself, be sure the oil you use has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the viscosity chart.

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

LOOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

HOT

WEATHER

- +38

+ 21

- + 16

- t 4

- - 7

SAE I OW-30 ACCEPTABLE IF 5W-30 IS NOT

AVAILABLE

SAE 5W-30

RECOMMENDED

COLD

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER WSCOSIN GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

5-1 7

As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle. You should look for and use only oils which have the API Starburst symbol and which are also identified as SAE 5W-30. If you cannot find such SAE 5W-30 oils, you can use an SAE IOW-30 oil which has the API Starburst symbol, if it's going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE IOW-40 or SAE 20W-50 under any conditions. Notice: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29"C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

5-1 8

Engine Oil Additives Don't add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity maintenance schedule:

Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever occurs first.

If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (1 2 500 km) or 12 months - whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower. Remote Oil Filter (Four-wheel Drive)

The access door for the remote oil filter is in the steering linkage shield assembly located under the radiator support. Turn the screw to unlock or lock the door. Make sure if you open the door, it is securely closed when you are finished.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

5-1 9

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

2200 L4 Engine

5-20

4300 V6 Engine

The engine air cleanedfilter for both the 2200 L4 engine and the 4300 V6 engine are both located in the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Comparfment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. To remove either engine air cleaner/filter, do the following:

1. Remove the fasteners that hold the cover on and

remove the cover

2. Lift out the engine air cleaner/filter, if needed.

3. Insert a new air filter. See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5-103 to determine which filter to use.

4. Reinstall the engine air cleanedfilter cover. Tighten

the fasteners to hold the cover in place.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the engine air cleanedfilter. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4

Operating the engine with the air cleanedfilter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

Notice: If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleanerhlter in place when you’re driving. Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.

0 When doing frequent trailer towing.

Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4

5-2 1

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. loo much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. loo little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic-especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C) Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (IOOC), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (1 0°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (lO°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

5-22

Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows:

Park your vehicle on a running.

level place. Keep the engine

0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

-1

The transmission dipstick handle has this symbol on it.

1 ? 1

The transmission dipstick is located near the center of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Ovendew on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick

and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

5-23

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-32. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn't take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don't overfill. Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@ 111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@ 111 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. e After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under "How to Check earlier.

0 When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

3.

4.

Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

5-24

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.

Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of

the filler plug hole.

3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure

it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

5-25

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-32.

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough

fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully

seated.

Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

5-26

When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-25 and Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-32.

How to Check and Add Fluid The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL@ engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL@ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-30.

A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

5-27

Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Nofice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you d

’t need to add anything ‘se.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant.

5-28

Checking Coolant

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

The coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment near the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Comparfment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.

Turni the radiator pressure cap when the engine-and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

5-29

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

Radiator Pressure Cap

led if ya spill coolant on hot

You can be b engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-33.

Notice: Your radiator pressure cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck. Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-33.

5-30

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

,,lgine can burn

Steam from an overh,,ted you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

Notice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

5-31

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under Towing a Trailer on page 4-54.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. Push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-32

Cooling System

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

5-33

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the ADD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

5-34

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the ADD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-27 for more information.

i Addi,., only plain water to your cool ...J system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX COOL@ coolant.

Notice; In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

5-35

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the ADD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

I-

You can .- ? burned if you spil. -oolant on I. - : engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

5-36

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

...........

. .....

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-37

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-27 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

5-38

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to ADD mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

6.

7.

Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

5-39

Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during

this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrow on the pressure cap lines up like this.

5-40

Power

Steering

Fluid

21

*,,

The power steering reservoir is located near the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid

It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for reservoir location. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. For the 2200 L4 engine, the fluid level should be at the C mark. For the VORTEC 4300 V6 engine, the level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-32. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

5-41

Notice:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on locationt. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

5-42

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level ip the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system.

If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hvdraulic system.

If yo1 ave too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-30.

5-43

Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container on page 6-32. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

. .~ only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants

.-PUII,I..

5-44

wron

rind o uid in your

system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Nofice:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care’’ in the Index.

Brake Wear If you have four-wheel drive, your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. If not, your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. If you have rear drum brakes, they don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System inspection on page 6-3 1. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

5-45

Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco@ battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco@ battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 72 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you don’t have four-wheel drive and your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

5-46

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Bat-Aes have acid that can burr. , ou and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature (Non-RDS Radios) on page 3-77 or Theft-Deterrent Feature (RDS Radios) on page 3-72.

Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

5-47

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).

Notice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-72 for more information on location of the battery.

5-48

Iattery

I near a battery can caus

- ng a mai gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco@ battery (or batteries) installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Far.- or other mc --ng en,..le parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative(-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

6.

Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7.

Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

5-49

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

9. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next

step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

10. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

11. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for awhile.

12. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If

it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

5-50

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following:

1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5-51

Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-32.

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

5-52

How to Check Lubricant

Four-wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additonal systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-30.

To get and accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level service. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you'll need to add some lubricant. Remove the plug and add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part Dr Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-32.

5-53

Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Sewices on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (1 2 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-32.

TO get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.

5-54

Bulb Replacement See Replacement Bulbs on page 5-60 for the proper types of bulbs to use. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your GM dealer’s service department. Halogen Bulbs

Headlamps One-Piece Composite Headlamp System 1. Open the hood.

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

2. Remove the black retainer clips by lifting up. 3. Pull the headlamp assembly out. 4. Unplug the electrical connector.

5-55

Two-Piece Composite Headlamp System 1 . Open the hood.

5. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove

it from the headlamp assembly.

6. Put the new bulb into the bulb assembly and

reinstall it in the headlamp assembly by turning it clockwise until it is tight.

7. Plug in the electrical connector. 8. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle. 9. Install the two retaining clips. 10. Close the hood.

5-56

2. Remove the black retainer clips by lifting up. 3. Unplug the electrical connector. 4. Pull the headlamp lens assembly out.

One-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as shown in

"One-Piece Composite Headlamp System" under Headlamps on page 5-55.

2. Twist the bulb socket

counterclockwise to remove it from the headlamp assembly.

_ :

I ? :

5. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove

it from the headlamp assembly.

6. Put the new bulb into the bulb assembly and

reinstall it in the headlamp assembly by turning it clockwise until it is tight.

7. Plug in the electrical connector 8. Put the headlamp lens assembly back into the

vehicle.

9. Install the two retaining clips. 10. Close the hood.

3. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the

socket.

4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it snaps into

place.

5. Put the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and

twist it clockwise until it is tight.

6. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle. 7. Install the two retaining clips. 8. Close the hood.

5-57

Two-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as shown in

" Two-Piece Composite Headlamp SysteM under Headlamps on page 5-55

2. Locate the locking tabs

on the assembly. Squeeze the tabs together and push that end of the assembly out while holding the tabs. The assembly will swing out.

3. Unplug the electrical connector.

5-58

4. Turn the harness bulb socket counterclockwise to

remove it. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket.

5. Push the new bulb into the socket until it snaps into

place.

6. Put the socket into the lamp assembly and turn it

clockwise until it is tight.

7. To reinstall the assembly, snap the outboard end of

the lamp assembly back into the vehicle. Then swing the assembly in and snap it into place.

8. Install the two retaining clips. 9. Close the hood.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)

1. Remove the lens retaining screws. 2. Remove the lens.

4. Install a new bulb. 5. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws. If equipment such as a cap or camper is installed on your vehicle, a center high-mounted stoplamp feed wire is provided along the driver’s side rear frame. This wire should be used to install a center high-mounted stoplamp in the cap or camper.

5-59

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Halogen Headlamps

Composite Low-Beam Composite High-Beam

9006 HB4 or

9006 LL 9005 HB3

3057 1 94

Tail and Stoplamps Rear Sidemarker Lamps Front Sidemarker Lamps 194NA Front Turn Signal Lamps 3457A Center Hiqh-Mounted Stoplamp 21 1-2 *For replacement bulbs not listed here, please consult your dealer.

Taillamps 1. Open the tailgate.

2. Remove the screws

from the lamp assembly near the tailgate latch.

3. 4.

5. 6. 7.

8.

9.

Pull the assembly away from the pickup side panel Turn the socket counterclockwise to remove it. Push the tab in while you turn the socket. Pull the bulb out. Push the new bulb into the socket. Put the socket into the assembly and turn the socket clockwise until it locks in place. Reinstall the assembly. Install and tighten the screws. Close the tailgate.

5-60

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check under At Least Twice a Year on page 6-26. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5- 103. Notice: Use care when removing or installing a blade assembly. Accidental bumping can cause the arm to fall back and strike the windshield. 1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm

until it locks into a vertical position.

A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook

2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking

tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.

5-6 1

3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D),

notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.

5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.

5-62

A

6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook.

Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly

onto the windshield.

A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect

Installation

5-63

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GMC Warranty booklet for details.

5-64

Poorly maintainec are dangerous.

improperly usec

res

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Certificationflire label, which is on the driver’s door edge, above the door latch, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing

0 Too much heat Tire overloading Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire. If you have a compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

5-65

Tire Inspection and Rotation

Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (1 0 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-67 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-70 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-73. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services,” in Section 6, for scheduled rotation intervals.

r -

When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire or a spare tire that does not match your vehicle’s regular road tires and wheels in size and type, do not include the spare in the tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certificationflire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5- 101.

5-66

Rust or c.. - _. . - wl .-?I, c. on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:

You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.

e You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

5-67

Buying New Tires

To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

5-68

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare (if you have one). It was developed for use on your vehicle.

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction - AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

5-69

Temperature - A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance

The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.

Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

Wheel Replacement

Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM