1996 Chevrolet S10 Owners Manual

Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

6% CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

4. Turn off the engine. 5. Put the wheel blocks at the front and

rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift

lever in PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).

3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle lever,

with a manual transfer case shift be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear

not in NEUTRAL (N).

- 0

CAUTION: (Continued)

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The jacking equipment you’ll need is stored inside the plastic jack cover which is behind the front seats, either on the center of the wall (extended cab) or on the passenger’s side of the wall (regular cab).

Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and remove the wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench. Your spare tire is stored underneath the rear of your vehicle. See “Compact Spare Tire’’ later in this section for more information about the compact spare.

NOTICE:

Never remove or restow a tire frodto a stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle when restowing.

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This is the jack cover for the extended cab. The cover for the regular cab is similar. To remove it, turn the plastic wing nut counterclockwise. Remove the jack cover.

Insert the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, into the hole in the rear bumper.

I NOTICE: I To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive the

vehicle before the cable is restored.

Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

Be sure the chisel end of the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare tire. Keep turning the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. When the tire has been completely lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

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The tools you'll be using include the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B). Your vehicle may also have an optional hub cap removal tool.

If your jack storage cover is equipped with a hub cap removal tool, position the hub cap removal tool in the notch and pull straight away from the wheel to avoid potential damage to the hub cap and wheel paint or surface. Remove the hub cap.

If you have an aluminum or plastic molded hub cap, pry t off with the chisel end of your wheel wrench.

Use the socket end of the wheel wrench to remove the wheel nut caps. Some of the molded plastic hub caps have imitation wheel nuts molded into them. Don't try to remove them. The wheel wrench socket won't fit these imitation nuts.

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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

3. Fit the jack into the appropriate hole nearest the

flat tire.

y:

k -

1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts.

Don't remove them yet.

2. Turn the jack handle clockwise slightly to raise the

lift head.

A. Front Frame Hole B. Rear Frame Hole (ZR2) C . Spring Hanger Hole (Standard Pickups)

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Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

I NOTICE:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle

clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

6. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

7. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface. 8. Put the nuts on by

hand. Make sure the cone-shaped end is toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by

’ hand until the wheel is

held against the hub. If a nut can’t be turned by hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon as possible.

A CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel use a scraper or wire to do this; but be sure to brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

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d CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 95 lb-ft (130 Nom).

I NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

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9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

10. Use the wrench to tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross as shown.

sequence

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

Follow this diagram to store a tire that doesn’t have an aluminum wheel.

- -

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

I NOTICE:

Don’t use the existing hoist to store a tire with an aluminum wheel or it could damage the wheel. Secure the tire in the pickup bed.

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A. Wheel Wrench B. Hoist Assembly C . Retainer D. Spring E. Tire

E Valve Stem

(Pointed Down)

G . Lower H. Raise

1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle,

with the valve stem pointed down and to the rear.

Return the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks to the proper location behind the seat. Secure the items.

2. Pull the retainer through the wheel.

Note that with the ZR2 option, the spring and retainer must be separated to insert through the wheel opening.

3. Put the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise until the tire is raised against the underside of the vehicle. You will hear two “clicks” when the tire is secure, but pull on the tire to make sure.

A. Wheel Wrench B. Bracket C . Jacking Instructions (Roll and place tag behind the bracket after the tools are installed.)

D. Bolt Location

(Standard)

(ZR2)

E. Bolt Location E Wheel Blocks G . Nut H. Rubber Band I. Jack Position (ZR2) J. Jack Position

(Standard)

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Replace the jack cover, if you have one.

A. Hub Cap Removal

Tool (Some Models)

C. Cover

(Standard Cab)

B. Cover

(Extended Cab)

D. Hub Cap Removal

Tool (Some Models)

E. Bolt

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Compact Spare Tire (If So Equipped) Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 P a ) . After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at posted speed limits for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

NOTICE:

When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.

I NOTICE:

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

I If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 kmh) as shown on the speedometer.

I NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

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Using the Recovery Hooks

Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE(R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

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The recovery hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

NOTICE:

Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

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NOTES

5-36

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care. Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Delco

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Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

A CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. 0 Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, and the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

6-2

Fu Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. At a minimum, it should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood tune-up label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. In Canada, some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called MMT. If you use such fuels, your emission control system performance may deteriorate and the malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this happens, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.

6-3

To provide cleaner air, all gasolines are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation, North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7

Filling Your Tank

The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

A CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

6-5

When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear at least three clicks. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

A CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

6-6

Checking Things Under the Hood

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.

Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. You may have a lamp that comes on when you lift the hood.

- A CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

6-7

When you lift the hood, you'll see these items on the 2.2L engine:

A. B. Engine Oil Fill C. Brake Master D. Hydraulic Clutch Reservoir 6-8

Dipstick

Cap and Cylinder

E. Battery E Power Steering Reservoir G. Air Cleaner Washer H. Windshield Fluid

Tank

Recovery

Coolant

When you lift the hood, you’ll see these items on the “VORTEC” 4300 engine:

I. Transmission Dipstick 3. Engine Oil Fill 2. Brake Master Cylinder 1. Coolant Recovery Tank :. Engine Oil Dipstick

E Power Steering Reservoir G. Battery H. Air Cleaner I. Windshield Washer Fluid

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Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then pull the hood down firmly to close. It will latch when dropped from 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) without pressing on the hood. Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

’ * . d .

The oil dipstick on the 2.2L engine is under the fill cap.

The oil dipstick on the “VORTEC” 4300 engine is a yellow ring.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

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NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what hnd of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications’’ in the Index.

6-11

What Kind of Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines. You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY 6RADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FULL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

HOT

WEATHER “F “C

WOK

FOR MIS SYMBOL

t. 100 -

+ sa

e 38

t 27

+ 60 .

t 16

+ 4 0 .

t 4

+ 20

- 7

0 .

- 18

COLD

WEATHER

SA€ 3w-30 PREFERRED

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (- 18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

When te Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off-road frequently. You frequently tow a trailer. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

GM Goodwrench’ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower.

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Remote Oil Filter (Four-wheel Drive) The access door for the remote oil filter is in the steering linkage shield assembly located under the radiator support. Twist the screw to unlock or lock the door. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

6-14

Air Cleaner

“VORTEC” 4300 Engine To remove this air cleaner, remove the wing nuts that hold the cover on. Remove the cover and lift out the air filter. Insert a new air filter, then replace the air cleaner cover. Tighten the wing nuts to hold the cover in place.

A CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

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2.2L Engine To remove this air cleaner, open both clamps and push the rear of the air cleaner toward the rear of the engine compartment. Insert a new air filter. Then replace the air cleaner assembly, making certain the PCV air tube is properly seated in the left hand valve cover and the clamps are securely fastened. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.

0 In hilly or mountainous terrain. 0 When doing frequent trailer towing. 0 Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer’s Service Department.

If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).

0 At high speed for quite a while. 0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. 0 While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).

6-16

Checking Transmission Fluid Hot Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F ( lO"C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.

Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

Checking the Fluid Hot or Cold

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running.

0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

0 With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

0 Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

6-17

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and

wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint. Don’t over-ZZ. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer’s Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

I NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of

the filler plug hole.

3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure

it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug. hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch system in your vehicle is self-adjusting. A slight amount of play (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch or 6 mm to 12 mm) in the pedal is normal. It isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your clutch fluid. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

6-20

When to Check and What to Use

How to Check The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the^ bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four-wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

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How to Check Lubricant

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

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If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants’’ in the Index. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with new DEX-COOL R’l (orange-colored, silicate-free) engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 100,000 miles ( 166 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. If the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

6-24

A 50/50 mixture of water and the proper coolant for your vehicle will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265 “F ( 129°C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. 0 Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

NOTICE:

~~

~~~~

~~

(orange-colored, silicate-free)

When adding coolant it is important that you use DEX-COOL coolant meeting GM Specification 6277M. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine

coolant will require change sooner -- at

30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half DEX-COOL silicate-free) antifreeze that meets GM Specification 6277M’ which won’t damage aluminum parts. Use GM Engine Coolant Supplement (sealer) (GM Part No. 3634621) with any complete coolant change. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

(orange-colored,

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL silicate-free) antifreeze.

(orange-colored,

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Checking Coolant

When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be LID to FULL HOT, or a little higher.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

I NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tank.

1 A CAUTION:

Tbrning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a never have to add coolant at the radiator. little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

A CAUTION: +-

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

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NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature.

Radiator Pressure Cap

6-28

Power Steering Fluid

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. For the LN2 engine, the fluid level should be at the C mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

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Adding Washer Fluid

NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

’ A CAUTION:

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

6-31

Checking Brake Fluid

After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the levels are above MIN and below the top of each window.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme 11 No. 1052535). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.

(GM Part

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. fluid reservoir. Just look at the windows on the brake The fluid levels should be above MIN. If they aren’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

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NOTICE:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicatbrs that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Free movement of brake calipers and properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake calipers for movement, brake pads for wear, and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have top-quality GM brake parts in them, as your vehicle does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Battery Every new vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom@ battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

25 days or more,

d CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.

Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature’’ in the Index. Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. Halogen Bulbs /u CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

-1

6-35

Headlamps Sealed Beam Lamps

1. Remove the screws from

the headlamp retainer.

2. Pull the headlamp out

and remove the retainer.

3. Unplug and remove the headlamp. 4. Plug in the new headlamp and put it in place. 5. Put the retainer on the headlamp and install and

tighten the screws.

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Composite Headlamps 1. Open the hood.

2. Remove the black

protective caps from the removal pins at the top of the radiator support. Use a hex socket to unscrew the pins.

3. Pull the headlamp lens assembly out. (Some vehicles may have

4. Unplug the electrical connector.

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5. Turn the bulb

counterclockwise to remove it.

6. Put the new bulb into the headlamp lens assembly

and turn it clockwise until it is tight.

7. Plug in the electrical connector. 8. Put the headlamp lens assembly back into the

vehicle. Install and tighten the screws.

Front Turn Signal Lamps If you have fog lamps, the fog lamp bracket must be removed before you can replace the front parkinghum signal lamps.

1. Reach under the bumper and behind the parkinghrn

signal lamp assembly.

2. Push the tab on the socket, turn the socket

counterclockwise and pull it out.

3. Holding the base of the bulb, pull the bulb straight

out of the socket.

4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 5. Put the socket back into the parkinghrn signal lamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks in place.

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Front Sidemarker Lamps 1. 2. 3.

Remove the lens retaining screws. Remove the sidemarker lens from the radiator grille. Turn the bulb and socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise. Remove the bulb and socket from the lens. Install the new bulb and socket to the sidemarker lens. Rotate the bulb and socket one-quarter turn clockwise. Install the sidemarker lens to the radiator grille. Insert the tabs into the locators. Install and tighten the screws.

4. 5 .

6.

7. 8. 9.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp

1. Remove the lens retaining screws. 2. Remove the lens.

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Taillamps 1. Open the tailgate.

2. Remove the screws from the lamp assembly near the tailgate latch.

4. Install a new bulb. 5. Replace the lens. Install and tighten the screws. If equipment such as a cap or camper is installed on your vehicle, a center high-mounted stoplamp feed wire is provided along the driver's side rear frame. This wire should be used to install a center high-mounted stoplamp in the cap or camper.

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3. 4.

5. 6. 7.

8. 9.

Pull the assembly away from the pickup side panel. Turn the socket counterclockwise to remove it. Push the tab in while you turn the socket. Pull the bulb out. Push the new bulb into the socket. Put the socket into the assembly and turn the socket clockwise until it locks in place. Replace the assembly. Install and tighten the screws. Close the tailgate.

Underhood Lamp 1. Disconnect the electrical connector from the

underhood lamp assembly.

2. Remove the screws. 3. Disconnect the ground wire. 4. Remove the lamp assembly from the hood. 5. Install the new bulb. 6. Replace the assembly. Install and tighten the screws. 7. Connect the ground wire. 8. Connect the electrical connector to the lamp assembly.

Vanity Mirror Lamps 1.

Insert the blade of a small screwdriver into the center slot at the bottom of the lens. Gently pry the screwdriver down in order to lift out the lens. Pry out the bulb. Press the new bulb into place. Slide the side tabs of the lens under the side of the vanity assembly frame. Rotate the lens downward. Snap the lens into the frame.

2.

3. 4. 5.

6. 7.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement See “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index for the proper type of replacement blade.

NOTICE:

Use care when removing or installing a blade assembly. Accidental bumping can cause the arm to fall back and strike the windshield.

1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm

until it locks into a vertical position.

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A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab

D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot E Arm Hook

2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab.

Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.

3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The

insert has two notches at one end that are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.

- A

0 I/

4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D),

notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). Plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.

A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation

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Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. likely to be Overinflated tires are more cut, punctured or broken by a sudden

impact -- such as when you hit a pothole.

Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm

hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly

onto the windshield.

Tires We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your warranty booklet for details.

I A CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. 0 Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

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Inflation - Tire Pressure The Certificatioflire label which is on the driver’s door door edge, above the door latch, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more thana mile.

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing

0 Too much,heat 0 Tire overloading 0 Bad wear 0 Bad handling

Bad fuel economy.

NOTICE: (Continued)

NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear 0 Bad handling e Rough ride

Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire. If you have a compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 Wa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

. 6-45

Tire Inspection and Rotation Fires should be inspected every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km) for any signs of unusual wear. If unusual wear is present, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and“‘Whee1 Replacement” later in this section for more information.

J.

The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniforrn wear for all tires on the vehicle. Thy first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals. When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, don’t include it in your tire rotation.

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After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certificatioflire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See ‘”Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)

When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: 0 You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or d i t .

6-47

The tire has a panctufe, cut or other .damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location . of the damage.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certificatioflire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or ‘types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all ,right to drive with your compact spare (if you have one).. It was developed for use on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.

Traction - A, B, C

The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straightahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.

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Temperature - A, B, C

The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. In most cases, you will not need to have your wheels aligned again. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of these conditions exist.

6-50

Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your model.

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis,

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

sed Replacement 7 keels

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how many miles it’s been driven, It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

6-51

Tire Chains

NOTICE:

If your vehicle has P235/75R15, P23970R15, P235/55R16 or 3lxlO.5OR15LT/C size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle. If you have other size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the drive axle tires (four-wheel-drive vehicles can use chains on both axles) and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: 0 Gasoline 0 Benzene 0 Naphtha 0 Carbon Tetrachloride 0 Acetone 0 Paint Thinner 0 Turpentine 0 Lacquer Thinner 0 Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

‘

6-52

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:

0 If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire

area immediately or it will set.

Alcohol

0 Laundry Soap 0 Bleach 0 Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or leather with a clean, damp cloth. Your GM dealer has two GM cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a foam-type powdered cleaner. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. Do not use them on vinyl or leather. Here are some cleaning tips: 0 Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.

Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-ventilated area only. If you use them, don’t saturate the stained area.

Using Foam-Type Cleaner on Fabric

Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner following the directions on the container label. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate the material. Don’t rub it roughly. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove the suds. Rinse the section with a clean, wet sponge. Wipe off what’s left with a slightly damp paper towel or cloth. Then dry it immediately with a blow dryer. Wipe with a clean cloth.

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Using Solvent-Type Cleaner on Fabric First, see if you have to use solvent-type cleaner at all. Some spots and stains will clean off better with just water and mild soap. If you need to use a solvent:

Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with a clean, dull knife or scraper. Use very little cleaner, light pressure and clean cloths (preferably cheesecloth). Cleaning should start at the outside of the stain, “feathering” toward the center. Keep changing to a clean section of the cloth.

0 When you clean a stain from fabric, immediately dry the area with a blow dryer to help prevent a cleaning ring.

Fabric Protection Your vehicle has upholstery and carpet that has been treated with Scotchgard TM Fabric Protector, a 3M product. It protects fabrics by repelling oil and water, which are the carriers of most stains. Even with this protection, you still need to clean your upholstery and carpet often to keep it looking new. Further information on cleaning is available by calling 1-800-433-3296 (in Minnesota, 1-800-642-6 167).

Special Cleaning Problems Greasy or Oily Stains Stains caused by grease, oil, butter, margarine, shoe polish, coffee with cream, chewing gum, cosmetic creams, vegetable oils, wax crayon, tar and asphalt can be removed as follows: 0 Carefully scrape off excess stain.

Follow the solvent-type instructions described earlier. Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and asphalt will stain if left on a vehicle’s seat fabric. They should be removed as soon as possible. Be careful, because the cleaner will dissolve them and may cause them to spread.

Non-Greasy Stains Stains caused by catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, wine, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows:

Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water. If a stain remains, follow the foam-type instructions described earlier.

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If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a waterhaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

0 If needed, clean lightly with solvent-type cleaner.

Combination Stains Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows:

Carefully scrape off excess stain, then clean with