1994 Chevrolet S10 Owners Manual

plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

4-28

Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)

0 Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

Freeway Driving

is: Keep up with traffic and

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, tumplkes, or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance there is usually a ramp that leads a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot.

to the freeway. If you have

to blend

4-29

a reasonable

Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. not fresh - such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip:

If you must start when you’re

in Vehicle

of

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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High way Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

less than a

it

0 Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool

interior.

0 Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check

your mirrors and your instruments frequently.

0 If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain. If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See “Off-Road Driving” in the Index for information about driving off-road.)

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Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As you .go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling- rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

4 - 3.2

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your vehiclein good shape for winter. Be sure your engine coolant mix is correct. You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle. of windshield

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

4-33

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about freezing (32°F; 0 O C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-lock” in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.

0 Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

4-34

in a serious situation. You for sure that you

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here to s m o n help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

are some things to do

an your

4-35

fuel. When you run

for the heat that you get and it keeps

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlights. Let the heater run for awhile. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the so until vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or help comes. Recreational Vehicle Towing (Four- Wheel Drive Only) If your vehicle has &wheel drive, you may tow providing it does not have the optional electronic shift transfer case.

it behind another vehicle

NOTICE: Recreational vehicle towing is not recommended for vehicles with the optional electronic shift transfer case because the electronic shift has no neutral position.

4-36

Before towing, you should:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Place the automatic transmission in “P’ (Park) or the manual

transmission in the lowest gear (1 st gear).

3. Firmly attach the vehicle being towed to the tow vehicle. Refer to the

hitch manufacturer’s instructions.

4. Place the transfer case shift lever in “ N ’ (Neutral).

5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly

attached to the tow vehicle.

6. Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch and turn it one notch forward of the LOCK position. This places the key into the OFF po.sition, which unlocks the steering column while preventing battery drain. Unlocking the steering column will allow for proper movement of the front wheelshires during towing.

I NOTICE: I You should exercise extra care whenever towing another vehicle.

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Towing a Trailer

NOTI.CE: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not coveredby your warranty. To pull a trailer correctIy, follow the advice in this section, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Every vehicle is ready for some trailer towing. If it was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here qre some important points.

in

There are many different laws having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 2,000 pounds (900 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than 2,000 pounds (900 kg).

You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

0 Don’t tow a trailer at aU during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the fist 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 kmk) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

speed, altitude,

Three important considerations have to da with weight: Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a .trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to General Motors of Canada Limited, Customer Assistance Center, 1908 Colonel Sam Drive, Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7. Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The gross vehicle weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the vehicle will be carrying that weight, Index for more infomation about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

4-39

A

If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the lirnit for cold tires. You’ll find or these numbers on the Certification label on the driver’s door lock pillar see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 2,000 pounds (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

NOTlCE: If your vehicle has the bumper delete option, do not bolt any type of hitch to the close-out panel. The close-out panel will not support a hitch.

4-40

front edge of the foot to the

just enough slack so you can turn with

You can tow trailers to 2,000 pounds (900 kg) with a step bumper hitch, but if your trailer tongue has a V-shaped foot, your bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Check the distance from the middle of the hitch ball socket. If the distance is less than 12 inches, take the foot off the trailer tongue. Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes - and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer bE---:s so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer brakes system can tap into vehicle’s hydraulic brake system except: Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will use more than 0.02 cubic inch ( 0 . 3 ~ ~ ) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. Will the trailer parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 P a ) of pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly so responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the

4-41

trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electricql connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking apd sudden turns.

is secure, and

to move the

Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the to turn, trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash €or turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

4-42

Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start dawn a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating. If you have an automatic transmission, you should use “D” when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in “D” when towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission. Or, if you have a rrianual transmission with fifth gear, it’s better not to use fifth gear, just drive in fourth gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “P” (Park) yet, or into

gear for a manual transmission.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the

chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then

shift into “P” (Park), or “R” (Reverse) for a manual transmission.

5. If you have a four-wheel drive vehicle with a manual transfer case shift

lever, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear-not in

“N” (Neutral).

6. Release the parking brakes,

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:

Start your engine; Shift into a gear; and Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Light Wiring See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index.

4-44

^ . -.

“ C

Power Winches If you wish to use a power wlncn on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.

NOTICE: When operating a power winch on your vehicle always leave the transmission in the neutral position. Do not leave an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in gear or the transmission may be damaged.

Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake or block the wheels your vehicle from rolling.

to keep

4-45

Notes

4 -4t

Problems on the Road

Section

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road Hazard Warning Flashers ..................................... Other Warning Devices ...................................... Jump Starting .............................................. Towing Your Vehicle ........................................ Engine Overheating ........................................ If a Tire Goes Flat ......................................... Changing a Flat Tire ....................................... If You’re Stuck: In Sand. Mud. Ice or Snow .....................

5-2 5-3 5-3 5-8 5-12 5-20 5-20 5-34

5-1

Hazard Warning Flashers

-1

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let

I police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lights will flash on and off.

Press the button in to make your front and rear turn signal lights flash on and off. Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.

To turn off the flashers, pull out on the collar:

When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work.

Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road ab.out 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.

NOTICE: Ignoring these steps could result in vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it could damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission. And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that way.

costly damage to your

E

To Jump Start Your Vehicle: 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery wlm a negauve

ground system.

NOTICE: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. You could be injured if the vehicles roll, Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transmission in “P” (Park) or a manual transmission in “ N ’ (Neutral). If you have a four-wheel drive vehicle with a manual transfer case shift lever, be sure the transfer case is not in “N’ (Neutral).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all lights that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

I NOTICE: I If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The

repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminals on each battery.

5-4

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. I€ they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could also be damaged. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should how. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or SL metal engine part. Don’t. connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.

5-5

Dead Battery

(+)

Good Battery (+)

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+)

terminal of the good battery.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative

(-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn ’I go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

Good Battery (-)

Heavy Metal Engine Part

9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery,

but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

5-6

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a

while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few

tries, it probably needs service.

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent electrical shorting. Take

care that they don’t touch each otk

or anv other metal.

Remove Cables In This Order:

1. Heavy Metal Engine Part

2. Good Battery (-) 3. Good Battery (+) 4. Dead Battery (+)

5-7

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow damage. If your vehicle has been changed since like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these things could be damaged during towing. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

it was factory-new by adding things

it without

That your vehicle has rear-wheel drive, or that it has the four-wheel drive option.

0 The make, model, and year of your vehicle.

Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission and shift the transfer case, if you have one. If there was an accident, what was damaged.

5-8

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmissi,on (either automatic or manual) should be in “ N ’ (Neutral) and the transfer case (either manual shift or electronic shift), if you have one, should be in 2 HI. The paking brake should be released.

5-9

Towing From fhe Front

NOTICE: Do not tow with sling-type equipment or front bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option, a dolly MUST be used under the rear wheels when towing from the front.

5-19

Towing From the Rear

NOTICE: Do not tow with sling-type equipment or rear bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. : . .A. :i.-. Use safety chains and wheel straps. If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option, a dolly MUST be used under the front wheels when towing from the rear.

Don’t have your vehicle towed on the rear wheels, unless you have to. If the vehicle must be towed on the rear wheels, don’t go more than km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transmission will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear drive wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

35 mph (56

5-11

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

NOTICE: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with coolant, your vehicle cdh be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

no

/f No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

0 Climb a long hill on a hot day. 0 Stop after high speed driving. 0 Idle for long periods in traffic. 0 Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:

1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the

window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to “N” (Neutral). If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND GET EVERYONE OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see: A. Coolant recovery

tank

B. Radiator pressure

cap

C . Engine fan

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

5-13

The coolant level should be at or above the ADD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump somewhere else in the cooling system.

or

I NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level the ADD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

isn’t at or above

I NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeqe and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the ADD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

You

5-15

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system,

including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, hot.

is no longer

Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the

coolant recovery tank to the ADD mark.

5 . h t the cap back

on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

7. By this time the coolant level inside the filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the

pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on pressure cap line up like this.

P ' Engine Fan Noise

This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.

5-19

if you

are a few tips

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firrnly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may In any rear blowout, remove require the same correction you’d use in a skid. your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by be very bumpy and steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely. Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard waming flashers.

5-20

Flat Tire

L Blocked Tire

The following steps will tell you how to use the Jack Storage Your jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks are stored behind the either on the center wall (extended cab) or along the right wall (regular cab).

jack and change a tire.

front seats,

To remove your jack cover, if you have one, turn the plastic wing nut to the left until you can pull it out. Remove the jack cover.

To remove the wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench, turn the wing nut to the left. Pull the wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench off.

5-21

7

Jacking Equipment Storage

1. 2. 3.

4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Wheel Wrench Bracket Jacking Instructions Tag (Roll and place tag behind the bracket after the tools are installed) Bolt Location (Standard) Bolt Location (ZR2) Wheel Blocks Nut Rubber Band Jack Position (ZR2) Jack Position (Standard)

Jacking Storage Cover

1. Hub Cap Removal Tool 2. Cover (Extended Cab) 3. Cover (Standard Cab) 4. Hub Cap Removal Tool 5. Bolt NOTE: Restore cover and hub cap rem Spare Tire

oval tool if provided.

Your spare tire is stored underneath the rear of your vehicle.

5-23

Underbody Carrier

NOTICE: Never remove or restow a tire from/to a stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle when restowing.

Underbody Spare Tire Mounting 1. Wheel Wrench 2. Hoist Assembly 3. Retainer 4. Spring 5. Tire 6. Valve Stem (Pointed Down)

NOTICE: To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive vehicle before cable is restored.

5-24

To Remove the Spare Tire

Insert the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, into the hole in the rear bumper. Be sure the chisel end of the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft.

Turn the wheel wrench to the left to lower the spare tire. Keep turning the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.

When the tire has been completely lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

5-25

Changing the Tire

Start with the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks.

Rotate the jackhandle to the right. That will raise the jack lift head a little.

Before you start, block the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. Then put your spare tire near the flat tire.

5-26

Hub Caps And Wheel Nut Caps You will have to take off hub caps or wheel nut caps to reach your wheel nuts.

If you have individual wheel nut caps that cover each nut, they must be removed in order to get the wheel nuts. Use the socket end of the wheel wrench to remove the wheel nut caps.

Your wheel nut caps may attach your hub cap to the wheel. Remove these wheel nut caps and retaining ring (if so equipped) before you take off the hub cap. If you have just an aluminum or plastic molded hub cap, pry it off with the chisel end of your wheel wrench.

Some of the molded plastic hub caps have imitation wheel nuts molded into them. The wheel wrench won’t fit these imitation nuts, so don’t try to remove them with the socket end of the wheel wrench.

5-27

-

Some jack storage covers are equipped with a hub cap removal tool. Position hub cap removal tool in notch.

Remove the hub cap.

Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet.

5-28

Jack Locations

Position the jack under the vehicle. A. Front Frame Hole B. Rear Frame Hole (ZR2) C . Spring Hanger Hole (Standard Pick-ups) Your vehicle has a hole in the frame near each front wheel, and a hole in the spring hanger near each rear wheel for the jack. Fit the jack into the hole nearest the flat tire.

I NOTICE:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may anow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

5 -29

Raise the vehicle by rotating the jackhandle to the right. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

5-30

Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

€'ut on the spare tire.

5 -31

Put the nuts on by hand. Make sure the cone-shaped end is toward the wheel.

Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel can’t be turned by hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon as possible.

is held against the hub. If a nut

..

Lower the vehicle by rotating the jackhandle to the left. Lower the jack completely.

5-32

k.

 Wheel Tightening Nut Tightening

Sequence

Use the wrench to tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Remove the wheel blocks.

Storing 'The Tire in The Underbody Carrier Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle, with the valve stem pointed down and to the rear. Pull the retaining bar through the wheel. NOTE: With ZR2 option, spring and retainer must be separated to insert through wheel opening. Put the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft. Turn the wheel wrench right until the tire is raised against the underside of the vehicle. You will hear two"clicks" when the tire is secure, but pull on the make sure.

tire to

5-33

Storing The Jacking Equipment Return the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks to the proper location behind the seat. Secure the items and replace the jack cover.

NOTICE: Don’t use the existing hoist to store a tire with an aluminum wheel or it could damage the wheel. Secure the tire in the pickup bed.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

NOTICE: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

5-34

Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between “R’ (Reverse) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between First or Second gear and Reverse), spinning the wheels as the accelerator pedal accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few .tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index. Using the Recovery Hooks

little as possible. Release the

If you ever get stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

5-35

I NOTICE: I Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle

could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

5 -.3 6

Service & Appearance Care

Section

. There is also technical information

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle . This part begins with service and fuel information. and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels about your vehicle. and a section devoted to its appearance care . Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-2 Fuel ..................................................... 6-3 Checking Things Under the Hood .............................. 6-6 Engineoil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-9 Aircleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-14 Automatic Transmission Fluid ............................. 6-15 ............................... Manual Transmission Fluid 6-18 Hydraulic Clutch ........................................ 6-20 RearAxle ............................................. 6-20 .......................................... Transfer Case 6-21 FrontAxle ............................................. 6-22 Engine Coolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-23 .................................... Power Steering Fluid 6-26 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................. 6-28 Brake Master Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-29 Replacing Brake System Parts ................................ 6-32 Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-32 Vehiclestorage ........................................... 6-32 Bulb Replacement ......................................... 6-33 Other Maintenance Items .................................... 6-39 ...................................... Loading Your Vehicle 6-45 Tires .................................................... 6-51 Appearancecare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-59 .......................... Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) 6-68 Service Parts Identification Label ............................. 6-70 .................................. Fuses and Circuit Breakers 6-70 Capacities and Specifications Charts ........................... 6-73

6-1

Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of~these rnarks:

it.

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

6-2

6-3

for cleaner air.

Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motc recommends that you use gasolines with these blending niaterials, sucn as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where. you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

6-4

Filling Your Tank

The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle.

While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left.

6-5

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear a clicking noise.

as

NOTICE: If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

Checking Things Under fhe Hood

Hood Release To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

6-6

Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.

Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. You will have an underhood light that comes on when you lift the hood.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood Prop.

6-7

Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer.

Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

6-8

Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few rninutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip lower.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

6-9

I NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Oil to Use Beginning midyear 1993, oils of the proper quality for your vehicle will be identified with this new “starburst” symbol. The “starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is perferred for use in your gasoline engine.

You should look for this on the front of the oil container, and use only oils that display this new symbol.

6-10

You should also use me proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE €XPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

LOOK FOR ONE OF THESE LABELS

SA! 1OW-30

SAE SW-30 PREFERRED

IF NEITHER SAE 5W-30 NOR SAE 1OW-30 GRADE OILS ARE AVAILABLE, SAE 30 GRADE MAY BE USED AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 40 DEGRfES F (4 DEGREES C). DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

HOT WEATHER / F + l o o - - - +38 + 8 0 - - - + 27 +60 - - - +16 +40 - - +20 - -

- + 4 - - 7 - - 1 8

O - -

COLD

WEATHER

As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it's going to be 0°F (-18 "C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 1OW-40 or S A E 20W-50.

6-11

If you cannot find oils with the new “starburst” symbol on the front of the container, you should look for and use oils containing the following three things:

SHor SG “SH or SG” must be on the oil container, either by itself or combined with other quality designations, such as “SWCD,” “SH, SG, CD,” “SG/CD,”etc. These letters show American Petroleum Institute (API) levels of quality.

0 SAE 5W-30

Energy Conserving I1 Oils with these words on the container will help you save fuel.

These three things are usually included in a doughnut shaped logo (symbol) on most containers. If you cannot find oils with the “starburst” symbol, you should look for oils with the doughnut shaped symbol, containing the three things noted above.

NOTICE: If you use oils that do not have either the “starburst” symbol or an API SH or SG designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle.

6- 12

Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km).

0 It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles (16

km). The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door-to-door delivery, or in stop-and-go traffic). You tow a trailer often. Most trips are through dusty places.

0 The vehicle is frequently operated off-road.

If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil andfilter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. If none of them is true, change the oil every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change and at every other oil change after that. Four-wheel Drive Remote Oil Filter If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, you will have a remote oil filter located under the radiator support. There is a special access door in the vehicle body skirt shield.

if you have to park outside in

Engine Coolant Heater (Engine Block Heater) An engine coolant heater can be a big help very cold weather, 0 “F (-1 8 O C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater ” in the Index. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing wed engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.)

6-13

Used oil can De a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or for help. Air Cleaner

If you have a problem properly disposing of a local recycling center

To remove the round air cleaner filter wing nuts to the left. Remove the cover and change the filter. Care should be taken during reassembly to ensure that the cover is on straight and wingnuts properly tightened.

for the 4.3L (VIN 2) engine, turn the

the

To remove the square air cleaner filter for the 2.2L (VnV.4) and the 4.3L (VIN W) engines, open both clamps and push the rear of the air cleaner back toward the rear of the engine compartment to change the filter.

While reassembling the air cleaner assembly, ensure that the air cleaner cover tabs are fully inserted into the slots in the air cleaner housing and the PCV air tube is properly seated in the left hand valve cover. air Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

NOTICE: If’ the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at a GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

level is when the

6-15

I NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Too

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). To check transmissionfluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10OC). If it's colder than 50°F (10" C), drive the vehicle in "D" (3rd Gear) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady Then follow the hot check procedures. Tu check transmission fluid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as reference. Let the engine run at are 50°F (10OC) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

idle for five minutes if outside temperatures

for ten minutes.

To check the fluid hot or cold

Park your vehicle on a level place. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in "P' (Park). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in "P' (Park). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

. . . - *

6- 16

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid

level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

6-17

4. If the fluid level

is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the COLD area for a cold check or the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint. Don’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-I11 or DEXRON@-IIE, for your automatic because fluids with that label are made especially transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-I11 or DEXR0N’-IIE

is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

0 After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to

Check.”

0 When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back

in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at a GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

6-18

NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid c m damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the’fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust systm, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only ‘when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole. 3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If

the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid’at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the

fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated.

Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch in your vehicle is self-adjusting. A slight amount of play (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) in the pedal is normal. When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and what to add. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. How to check The proper fluid should be added the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the reservoir cap. Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

if the level does not reach the bottom of

instructions on the

6-20

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four- Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication.

Transfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

6-21

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

The arrow on the left shows the drain plug location. The arrow on the right shows the filler plug location.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Front Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant.

6-22

If the differential is at operating temperature (w,arm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant (12 mm) below the filler plug hole.

to raise the level to 1/2 inch

What to use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your vehicle will:

it

Give freezing protection down to -20 “F (-29” C), or -34°F (-37 “C) in Canada and for vehicles with the cold climate option.

e Give boiling protection up to 258°F (125°C).

Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

What to Use Use a mi,xture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 603%” 6043-M ”for the 2.2L (LN2) Code 4 engine, which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to “GM Specification 603%” Code 4 engine with a complete coolant flush and refill. mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

or “GM Specification 6043-M ”for the 2.2L (LN2)

or “GM Specification

If you use this

6-23

I NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

Some conditions, such as air trapped in the cooling system, can affect the is cold coolant level in the radiator. Check the coolant level when the engine and foilow the steps under “Adding Coolant” for the proper way to add coolant. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have check your cooling system.

your dealer

I NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Adding Coolant

To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at “ADD,” or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to “FULL HOT,” or a little higher.

To Add Coolant

If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tank.

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Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

Radiator Pressure Cap

I NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

When you replace your radiator pressure cap, a GM cap is recommended. See “Service Replacement Part and Filter Recommendations” in the Index.

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Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended. Power Steering Fluid

NOTICE: Always turn the engine off before checking or adding power steering fluid. The power steering cap is close other moving parts.

to the fan and

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A

Then remove the again and look at fluid level on the dipstick.

cap the

0 When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the “HOT”

mark. When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be at the “FULL COLD” mark.

What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

NOTICE: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Windshield Washer Fluid To Add

Open the cap labeled “WASHER FLUID ONLY.” Add washer fluid until the bottle is full.

NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

0 Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system, AIso, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

0 Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It

can damage your washer system and paint.

Fluid Leak Check After the vehicle has been parked for a while, inspect the surface under the vehicle for water, oil, fuel or other fluids. Water dripping from the air conditioning system after it has been used is normal. If you notice fuel leaks or fumes, the causes should be found and corrected at once.

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Brakes Brake Master Cylnder

Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

in your master cylinder

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level might go down, The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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To Check Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the windows on the brake fluid reservoir.

The fluid levels should be above ‘“IN.’’ If they aren’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the levels are above “MIN” and below the top of each window.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid - such as (GM Part No.1052535). Use new brake fluid from a Delco Supreme sealed container only, and always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap before removing it.

II@

NOTICE:

Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Brake fluid can damage paint, so be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you -are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

I NOTICE: I Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in

costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rabbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires itre removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.

if

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Vehicles we design and test have topquality GM brake parts in them, as your vehicle does when it is new. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in - be sure you get new genuine GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change, for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Every new vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom’ battery. Get one that has the catalog number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

for longer storage

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle periods. For more information, contact your dealer’s service department, or write: Adistra Corporation 171 Hamilton Street Plymouth, MI 48 170 In Canada, write: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Services Department Oshawa, Ontario L1J 5Z6 Canada

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Fluid Leak Check After the vehcle has been parked for awhile, inspect the surface under the vehicle for water, oil, fuel OX other fluids. Water dripping from the air conditioning system after it has been used is normal. If you notice fuel leaks or fumes, the causes should be found and corrected at once. Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lights are off and the engine isn’t running. Halogen Bulbs

NOTICE:

Composite Headlights 1. Open the hood.

2. Remove the

screws at the top of the radiator support.

3. Pull the headlight

lens assembly out.

4. Unplug the electrical connector.

1 5. Turn the bulb to

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6. Put the new bulb into the headlight lens assembly and turn it to the right until it is tight.

7. Plug in the electrical connector.

8. Put the headlight lens assembly back into the vehicle. Install and

tighten the screws.

Sealed Beam Headlights

1. Remove the

screws from the headlight retainer.

2. Pull the headlight

out and remove the retainer. 3. Unplug and remove the headlight.

4. Plug in the new headlight and put it in place. 5. Put the retainer on the headlight and install and tighten the screws.

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Front ParklTurn Signal Lights (Composite and Sealed Beam) If you have fog lamps, the fog lamp bracket must be removed before you can replace the front park/turn signal lights. 1. Reach under the bumper and behind the parking/turn signal light

assembly.

_. Turn the socket to the left and pull it out.

3. Pull the bulb out

of the socket.