2006 Chevrolet Corvette Owners Manual

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allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. 5-6 Filling the Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 5-7 The fuel door release button is located on the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. Push the button to release the fuel door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, let the cap hang by the tether below the fuel ﬁll opening. {CAUTION: If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. There is also a manual fuel door release tab. It is located against the upper trim in the rear compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Pull the tab to release the fuel door. 5-8 Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-86. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42. The CHECK GAS CAP message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53 for more information. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42. 5-9 Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. (cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-10 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the hood release lever with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle below the instrument panel on the driver’s side. 2. Go to the side of the vehicle and pull up on the rear edge of the hood, near the windshield. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then, just pull the hood down and close it ﬁrmly. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview If your vehicle has the 6.0L V8 engine and you are facing the front, when you open the hood, here is what you will see: 5-12 A. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir (If Equipped). See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-28. B. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-41. C. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-42. D. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Engine Coolant on page 5-29. E. Engine Air Cleaner/Filters. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25. F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-40. G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. H. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. I. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-98. J. Passenger Compartment Air Filter (Out of View). See Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-31. K. Battery. See Battery on page 5-45. 5-13 If your vehicle has the 7.0L V8 engine and you are facing the driver’s side of the vehicle, when you open the hood, here is what you will see: 5-14 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25. B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-40. C. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-98. D. Remote Positive Terminal (Out of View). See Battery on page 5-45. E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. F. Dry Sump Engine Oil Tank. See “Changing Engine Oil and Filter (Z06 Only)” Engine Oil on page 5-16. G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. H. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Engine Coolant on page 5-29. I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-41. J. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-42. K. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir (If Equipped). See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-28. 5-15 Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil (Except Z06) If the LOW OIL LEVEL message on the Driver Information Center (DIC) comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-48. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It is a good idea to check your engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a lint-free paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down. 5-16 Checking Engine Oil (Z06 Only) A. Engine Oil Dipstick B. Engine Oil Fill Cap It is a good idea to check your engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. The dipstick is located on the dry sump engine oil tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the dry sump engine oil tank. Z06 models are equipped with a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when checking the engine oil level. Follow this procedure closely when checking the engine oil level. The engine oil level must be checked when the engine is warm. Cold oil level in the dry sump tank may not indicate the actual amount of oil in the system. With this system, engine oil is contained in an external tank, separate from the engine. Under normal operating conditions, the oil pan under the engine does not store any oil. If the vehicle has been parked for an extended period without the engine being started, some oil will seep back into the oil pan, reducing the amount of oil held in the dry sump tank and there could be no engine oil at all showing on the dipstick. This is normal since the dipstick is designed to read engine oil level only after the engine has run long enough to reach normal operating temperature. Do not add engine oil based on cold engine dipstick readings. The engine oil level on the dipstick will also be inaccurate if checked while the engine is running. 1. To obtain an accurate engine oil level reading, warm up the engine to at least 175°F (80°C). 2. Turn off the engine and wait at least ﬁve minutes before removing the dipstick from the dry sump engine oil tank. 3. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a lint-free paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down. 5-17 When to Add Engine Oil (Except Z06) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-101. See Racing or Other Competitive Driving on page 4-18 for additional information on engine oil. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. 5-18 When to Add Engine Oil (Z06 Only) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the dry sump engine oil tank and ﬁll cap. If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-101. See Racing or Other Competitive Driving on page 4-18 for additional information on engine oil. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back into the dry sump engine oil tank when you are through. 5-19 Changing Engine Oil and Filter (Z06 Only) Z06 models are equipped with a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when changing the engine oil and ﬁlter. Follow this procedure closely when changing the engine oil and ﬁlter. A. Engine Oil Drain Plug B. Seal 1. Remove the two drain plugs from the bottom of the engine oil pan. One drain plug is located on the side of the engine oil pan, under the oil ﬁlter, and drains the small amount of residual oil from the oil pan. The other drain plug is located on the front of the engine oil pan and drains the main engine oil storage tank and line. 5-20 2. Once the oil has been drained from the engine, remove the engine oil ﬁlter. Replace the ﬁlter and tighten it to 18 lb ft (25 Y). See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14 for the correct ﬁlter. 3. Install both drain plugs and tighten them to 18 lb ft (25 Y). 4. Oil is ﬁlled through the opening in the top of the dry sump engine oil tank. Remove the ﬁll cap. First add seven quarts (6.6L) of engine oil to the ﬁll port. Do not add more than seven quarts (6.6L) or the excess oil will spill out the top of the tank. 5. Install the oil ﬁll cap and insert the dipstick, if removed. 6. Start the engine and let it run at idle for at least 15 seconds. This will circulate the fresh engine oil through the lubrication system. 7. Shut off the engine, remove the ﬁll cap from the top of the oil tank, and add the last one quart (0.9L) to the ﬁll port. Install the ﬁll cap. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-101. 8. Start the engine and let it run at idle for at least 15 seconds. The oil and ﬁlter change is now complete. 5-21 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: (cid:127) GM4718M Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identiﬁed as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. If you use oils that do not have the Notice: GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. 5-22 Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Your vehicle’s engine is ﬁlled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM4718M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. Z06 models are equipped with a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when changing the engine oil and ﬁlter. See Engine Oil on page 5-16. 5-23 When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message after an oil change, do the following: 1. Press the TRIP button so the OIL LIFE percentage is displayed. 2. Press RESET and hold for two seconds. OIL LIFE REMAINING 100% will appear. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. 5-24 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlters. Notice: cleaner/ﬁlter intake and water enters the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter housing, you could damage your vehicle’s engine. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not spray water into the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter intake and/or housing. If you spray water into the engine air What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help. If you are cleaning your vehicle with the hood open, take care not to spray water directly into either end of the air cleaner/ﬁlter housing, as shown in the illustration, as this could damage your vehicle’s engine. 5-25 To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlters, do the following: When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlters at the Maintenance II intervals and replace them at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlters at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters (6.0L V8 Engine) To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlters, remove the ﬁlters from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlters to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlters remain caked with dirt, new ﬁlters are required. 1. Pull the latches on each side of the cover to open, then move the latches up and out of the way. 2. Push the air cleaner/ﬁlter cover toward the front of the vehicle and then pull it up and away. 3. Inspect or replace the ﬁlter. See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. 4. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to replace the air cleaner/ﬁlter cover. 5. Repeat the procedure for the second air cleaner/ﬁlter. 5-26 How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters (7.0L V8 Engine) To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlters, remove the ﬁlters from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlters to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlters remain caked with dirt, new ﬁlters are required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlters, do the following: 1. Remove the screws holding the ﬁlter element in place. 2. Pull on latches found on either side of the ﬁlter. 3. Inspect or replace the ﬁlter. See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. 4. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to replace the air cleaner/ﬁlter cover. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre Notice: can cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. 5-27 Manual Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the manual transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for the proper ﬂuid to use. Hydraulic Clutch It is not necessary to regularly check clutch ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding ﬂuid will not correct a leak. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. Automatic Transmission Fluid How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. There is a special procedure for checking and changing the transmission ﬂuid. Because this procedure is difficult, you should have this done at the dealership service department. Contact your dealer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-14. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5-28 When to Check and What to Use The hydraulic clutch ﬂuid reservoir cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the ﬂuid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper ﬂuid to use. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-8 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check and Add Fluid Make sure the ﬂuid level is at the MIN (Minimum) line on the side of the reservoir. If it is not, remove the cap and add the proper ﬂuid until the level reaches the MIN line. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-32. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the ﬁrst maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-29 (cid:127) If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information. If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 5-30 Checking Coolant The engine coolant surge tank is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark. The FULL COLD mark is on the front of the coolant surge tank. Do not overﬁll the surge tank. Too much coolant can result in an overﬂow when the ﬂuid is hot. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. {CAUTION: Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated. 5-31 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd an engine coolant temperature gage on the instrument panel cluster and a COOLANT OVER TEMPERATURE message on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-41 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53 for more information. 5-32 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-34 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If your engine catches ﬁre because you keep Notice: driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-34 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you are not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. 5-33 (cid:127) Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the messages COOLANT OVER TEMPERATURE and REDUCED ENGINE POWER are displayed, along with the Check Engine light, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km). Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-16. 5-34 Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-34 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-35 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-29 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-36 {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 5-37 3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture until the level inside stabilizes at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the surge tank. 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter turn and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 5-38 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level stabilizes at the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank. 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. Check the level in the surge tank when the system has cooled down. If the coolant is not at the proper level, repeat Steps 1 through 4, then reinstall the pressure cap. If the coolant is not at the proper level when the system cools down again, see your dealer. 5-39 Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 5-40 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. There are markings on both sides of the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the mark. When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the HOT mark. When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be at the FULL COLD mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. 5-41 (cid:127) So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake ﬂuid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. 5-42 Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake ﬂuid without taking off the cap. Look at the brake ﬂuid reservoir. The ﬂuid level should be above the MIN mark on the reservoir. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is between the MIN and MAX marks. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Refer to Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-86. 5-43 (cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. 5-44 Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment As you make brake stops, your disc brakes automatically adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. For battery replacement, see your dealer or the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service and Owner Publications in Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-14. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (–) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-46 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. 5-45 Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. If you try to start your vehicle by pushing Notice: or pulling it, you could damage your vehicle. Do not push or pull your vehicle to start it; instead, use the jump starting procedure in this manual to start your vehicle when the battery has run down. 5-46 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brakes. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) terminal (A) and a remote negative (−) terminal (B), as shown in the illustration, which should be used to jump start your vehicle. The remote positive (+) terminal (A) can be accessed by opening the cover of the engine compartment fuse block. The remote negative (−) terminal (B) is located underneath the engine cover, below the engine oil ﬁll cap. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine compartment fuse block and engine oil ﬁll cap. You will not need to access the battery for jump starting. The remote terminals are for that purpose. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. 5-47 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 5-48 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal for this purpose. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-49 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the engine fuse block cover to its original position. 6. You may also need to initialize the power windows. See “Power Window Initialize” under Power Windows on page 2-17 for more information. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-50 Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use To add lubricant when the level is low, use SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. U.S. 12378261, in Canada 10953455) meeting GM Speciﬁcation 9986115. To completely reﬁll after draining, add 4 ounces (118 ml) of Limited-Slip Axle Lubricant Additive (GM Part No. U.S. 1052358, in Canada 992694). Then ﬁll to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole with the Synthetic Gear Lubricant. 5-51 Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-54. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting {CAUTION: The low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer or a qualiﬁed technician service them. Your vehicle has HID low-beam headlamps. After your vehicle’s HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal. 5-52 Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps A. High-beam Headlamp B. Low-beam Headlamp C. Front Parking/Turn Signal/DRL If the low-beam headlamp needs to be replaced, you will need to see your dealer. See High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting on page 5-52 for more information. To replace a high-beam or front parking/turn signal/DRL bulb, do the following: 1. Turn the wheel to allow access to the wheel well. 4. Remove the headlamp bulb by releasing the outer tabs from the socket. 2. Access the high-beam or front parking/turn signal bulbs by removing the access panel. To do this, remove the three outer fasteners and ﬂip back the cover. 3. Remove the outer cover to expose the high-beam headlamp bulb socket once the access cover has been removed. 5. Remove the front parking/turn signal bulb by turning the bulb socket counterclockwise. 6. Replace the high-beam headlamp bulb with a new bulb and reattach to the bulb socket. Replace the front parking/turn signal bulb by turning the bulb socket clockwise. 7. Reverse the Steps 2 through 4 to reinstall. 5-53 Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps To replace a stoplamp, taillamp/turn signal bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the screw from the top of the lamp assembly. 2. Tilt out the lamp assembly. 3. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise and pull it out. 5-54 4. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. 5. Push the new bulb in the bulb socket until it snaps into place. 6. Reinstall the lamp assembly by ﬁrst lining up the tabs on the bottom of the lamp assembly with the tabs in the vehicle, then slide it in. 7. Replace the screw at the top of the lamp assembly. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Front Parking/Turn Signal/DRL Headlamp, High-Beam Sidemarker Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal 5702KA H9 W3W 3057KK For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. Windshield Replacement Keep in mind that your windshield is part of the Head-Up Display (HUD) system. If you ever have to get your windshield replaced, be sure to get one that is designed for HUD or your HUD image may look blurred or out of focus. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. It is a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly every six months. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. To remove the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Open the hood to gain access to the windshield wipers. 2. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield. A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook 3. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab (C). Pull down on the blade assembly (A) to release it from the wiper arm hook (F). 4. Remove the insert from the blade assembly (A). The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notch end, pull the insert from the blade assembly. 5-55 To install the new wiper insert: 3. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot. 4. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly onto the windshield. Installation guide: 1. Slide the insert (D), notched end last, into the end with the two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). Plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully installed. 2. Be sure the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots. 5-56 A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual. {CAUTION: (cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64 for inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed driving. 5-57 Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. All season tires provide good overall performance on most surfaces but they may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. See your dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-70 If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all four wheel positions. (cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load range, and speed rating as the original equipment tires. Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability. 5-58 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The example below shows a typical passenger (p-metric) tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-72. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger (p-metric) vehicle tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. 5-59 (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. 5-60 GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. 5-61 Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-69. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-72. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. Extended Mobility Tires Your vehicle, when new, had Goodyear Extended Mobility Tires (EMT). There’s no spare tire, no tire changing equipment and no place to store a tire in the vehicle. Extended Mobility Tires perform so well without any air that a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) is used to alert you if a tire has lost pressure. If a tire goes ﬂat, you won’t need to stop on the side of the road to change the tire. You can just keep on driving. The shorter the distance you drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance that the tire will not have to be replaced. If you drive on a deﬂated EMT for 25 miles (80 km) or less and at speeds of 55 mph (90 km/h) or less, there is a good chance that the tire can be repaired. The tire can operate effectively with no air pressure for up to 100 miles (320 km) at speeds up to 55 mph (90 km/h), but the tire would then have to be replaced. When a tire is ﬁlled with air, it provides a cushion between the road and the wheel. Because you won’t have this cushion when driving on a deﬂated tire, try to avoid potholes that could damage your wheel and require replacement of it. Some road hazards can damage a tire beyond repair. This damage could occur even before you’ve driven on the tire in a deﬂated condition. When a tire has been damaged, or if you’ve driven any distance on a deﬂated 5-62 EMT, check with an authorized Goodyear EMT Service Center to determine whether the tire can be repaired or should be replaced. To maintain your vehicle’s extended mobility feature, all replacement tires must be Extended Mobility Tires. As soon as possible, contact the nearest authorized GM or Goodyear EMT servicing facility for inspection and repair or replacement. To locate the nearest GM or Goodyear EMT servicing facility, call Roadside Assistance. For phone numbers and Roadside Assistance details see Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. You may also contact Goodyear, for the nearest authorized EMT servicing facility, by calling 1-800-789-9878. The valve stems on your extended mobility tires have sensors that are part of the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM). See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-67. The TPM sensors contain batteries which are designed to last for 10 years under normal driving conditions. See your dealer if you ever need to have a wheel replaced, or if the sensors ever need replacement. Notice: Using liquid sealants can damage the tire valves and tire pressure monitor sensors in your extended mobility tires. This damage would not be covered by warranty. Don’t use liquid sealants in your extended mobility tires. {CAUTION: Extended mobility tires are constructed differently than other tires and could explode during improper service. You or others could be injured or killed if you attempt to repair, replace, dismount, or mount a extended mobility tire. Let only an authorized EMT Service Center repair, replace, dismount and mount extended mobility tires. 5-63 A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s b-pillar. This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and shows the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: Too much ﬂexing Too much heat Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards 5-64 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Tire Pressure Monitor System Your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) that sends tire pressure information to the Driver Information Center (DIC). Using the DIC control buttons, the driver is able to check tire pressure levels in all four tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-67 and DIC Controls and Displays on page 3-48 for additional information. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they’re under-inﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. 5-65 High Speed Operation {CAUTION: Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inﬂation pressure for the vehicle load. If you will be driving your vehicle at speeds of 175 mph (282 km/h) or higher, where it is legal, set the cold inﬂation pressure to the maximum inﬂation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or 38 psi (265 kPa), whichever is lower. See the example following. When you end this high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold inﬂation pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. Example: You will ﬁnd the maximum load and inﬂation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near the rim ﬂange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 690 kg (1521 lbs) 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press. For this example, you would set the inﬂation pressure for high-speed driving at 38 psi (265 kPa). Racing or other competitive driving may affect the warranty coverage of your vehicle. See your warranty booklet for more information. 5-66 Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) on your vehicle, uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. Sensors, mounted on each tire and wheel assembly, transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. The TPMS sensors transmit tire pressure readings once every 60 seconds while the vehicle is being driven and once every 60 minutes when the vehicle is stationary for more than 15 minutes. Using the Driver Information Center (DIC), tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. The TPMS also uses the DIC to warn the driver when air pressure, in one or more of the tires, falls below 24 psi (164 kPa) or is above 42 psi (290 kPa). For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Controls and Displays on page 3-48 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53. A low tire pressure warning light also appears on the instrument panel cluster when a low tire condition exists. The low tire pressure warning light will be shown each time the engine is started and stays on until the low tire condition is corrected. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inﬂated to the inﬂation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inﬂation pressure label, you should determine the proper inﬂation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inﬂate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inﬂation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inﬂation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. 5-67 The Tire and Loading Information Label (tire information placard) is attached to the vehicle’s b-pillar. This label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the correct inﬂation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. Your vehicle’s TPMS can alert you about a low or high tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64 and When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-69. The SERVICE TIRE MONITOR message, in the DIC, is displayed when the TPMS is malfunctioning. For example, one or more TPMS sensors may be inoperable or missing. Also, the active handling system will be affected, see Active Handling System on page 4-10. See your dealer for service. TPMS Sensor Identiﬁcation Codes Each TPMS sensor has a unique identiﬁcation code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors, the identiﬁcation codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel positions, in the following order: driver’s side front tire, passenger’s side front tire, passenger’s side rear tire, and driver’s side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your GM dealer for service. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation. The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device. Changes or modiﬁcations to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment. 5-68 Tire Rotation The tires on your vehicle are different sizes front to rear. Due to this, your tires should not be rotated. Each tire and wheel should be used only in the position it is in. When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. (cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. 5-69 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched speciﬁc tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical speciﬁcations that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an

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