2006 Chevrolet Corvette Owners Manual

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Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater! The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I will be careful” is not the right answer. What if there is an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There is something else about drinking and driving that many people do not know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking. {CAUTION: Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reﬂexes, perceptions, attentiveness, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking. Please do not drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a group, designate a driver who will not drink. 4-5 Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering, and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road. Sometimes, as when you are driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9 and Active Handling System on page 4-10. Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3. Braking See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-38. Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied. 4-6 Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves a little. This is normal. If there is a problem with the anti-lock brake system, this warning light will stay on. See Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-39. Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you are driving, brake normally but do not pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Under certain weather or operating conditions, occasional brake squeak, squeal, or other noise may be heard with your performance braking system. This brake system is designed for superior fade resistance and consistent operation using high performance brake pads. Brake noise is normal and does not affect system performance. Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3. 4-7 Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel. The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard. 4-8 As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: Anti-lock does not change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down ﬁrmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may hear a motor or clicking noise and feel the brake pedal move a little during a stop, but this is normal. Braking in Emergencies With anti-lock brakes, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. Traction Control System (TCS) Your vehicle has a traction control system called TCS that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that the rear wheels are spinning too much or are beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system works the rear brakes and reduces engine power (by closing the throttle and managing engine spark) to limit wheel spin. The TRACTION SYSTEM ACTIVE message will come on when the TCS system is limiting wheel spin. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53. You may feel or hear the system working, but this is normal. If your vehicle is in cruise control when the TCS system begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may re-engage the cruise control. See Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever on page 3-8. The SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM message and the TCS warning light will come on to let you know if there is a problem with your TCS system. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53. When this light and the SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM message are on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly. 4-9 The TCS system automatically comes on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the TCS system off if you ever need to. To turn the system off, press the button located on the console. You can turn the system on or off at any time by pressing the ACTIVE HANDLING button. The DIC will display the appropriate message when you push the button. Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for more information. Active Handling System The Active Handling System is a computer controlled system that helps the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle in difficult driving conditions. This is accomplished by selectively applying any one of the vehicle’s brakes. When you ﬁrst start your vehicle during cold winter weather and begin to drive away, the message ACTIVE HANDLING WARMING UP may be displayed in the DIC. This is normal. You can acknowledge this message by pressing the RESET button. The Active Handling System performance is affected until the message, ACTIVE HANDLING READY, is displayed in the DIC. The ACTIVE HANDLING CALIBRATING message may be displayed in the DIC and the instrument panel cluster light will be on after exceeding 18 mph (30 km/h) for 10 seconds. The Active Handling System is off until the ACTIVE HANDLING READY message is displayed. This could take up to 15 minutes. The ACTIVE HANDLING message will come on when the system is operating. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53 for more information. You may also feel or hear the system working. This is normal. 4-10 The SERVICE ACTIVE HANDLING message will be displayed, the instrument cluster light will come on, and a chime will sound to let you know if there is a problem with the system. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53 for more information. To turn the system off, press the ACTIVE HANDLING button on the console for ﬁve seconds. You can turn the system on at any time by pressing the button. The DIC will display the appropriate message when you push the button. When this light and the SERVICE ACTIVE HANDLING message are on, the system is not operational. Adjust your driving accordingly. The Active Handling System comes on automatically whenever you start your vehicle. To help maintain directional control of the vehicle, you should always leave the system on. You can turn the system off if you ever need to. If you turn the Active Handling System off, the Traction Control System will also be turned off. Adjust your driving accordingly. If the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) system detects a ﬂat tire and the Driver Information Center (DIC) displays TIRE FLAT, or if the TPM system is malfunctioning and the DIC displays SERVICE TIRE MONITOR, the Active Handling System will be affected as follows: The Active Handling System cannot be turned off by the driver. If the Active Handling System is off, it will be turned on automatically. (cid:127) Competitive Driving Mode is unavailable. The Active Handling System will feel different in aiding and maintaining directional control. 4-11 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Competitive Driving Mode The driver can select this optional handling mode by pressing the ACTIVE HANDLING button on the console two times within a ﬁve second time period. COMPETITIVE DRIVING MODE will be displayed in the DIC. Competitive Driving Mode allows the driver to have full control of the rear wheels while the Active Handling System helps maintain directional control of the vehicle by selective brake application. The instrument cluster light will not be on. The Traction Control System will not be operating. Adjust your driving accordingly. When you press the ACTIVE HANDLING button again, or turn the ignition to ACC, the Active Handling and Traction Control Systems will be on. The TRACTION SYSTEM AND ACTIVE HANDLING-ON message will be displayed temporarily in the DIC and a chime will be heard. Limited-Slip Rear Axle Your limited-slip rear axle can give you additional traction on snow, mud, ice, sand or gravel. It works like a standard axle most of the time, but when one of the rear wheels has no traction and the other does, this feature will allow the wheel with traction to move the vehicle. 4-12 Selective Ride Control You may have a ride control system on your vehicle called Magnetic Selective Ride Control. The system provides the following performance beneﬁts: (cid:127) Reduced Impact Harshness Improved Road Isolation Improved High-Speed Stability Improved Handling Response (cid:127) Better Control of Body Ride Motions This knob is located on the center console. Turn it to select the suspension of your choice. TOUR: Use for normal city and highway driving. This setting provides a smooth, soft ride. SPORT: Use where road conditions or personal preference demand more control. This setting provides more “feel”, or response to the road conditions. (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) You can select a setting at any time. Based on road conditions, steering wheel angle and your vehicle speed, the system automatically adjusts to provide the best ride and handling. Select a new setting whenever driving conditions change. There are three Driver Information Center (DIC) messages that are displayed when a malfunction occurs with the Selective Ride Control system (SERVICE RIDE CONTROL, SHOCKS INOPERATIVE, MAXIMUM SPEED 80 MPH (129 KM/H). Refer to DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53 for more information. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Magnetic Speed Variable Assist Steering Your vehicle is equipped with a steering system that continuously adjusts the effort you feel when steering at all vehicle speeds. It provides ease when parking, yet a ﬁrm, solid feel at highway speeds. Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here is why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you will understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems — steering and acceleration — have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. 4-13 Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you will want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3. Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and ﬁnd a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. 4-14 See Braking on page 4-6. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available. An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly. Off-Road Recovery You may ﬁnd that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you are driving. If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway. Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents — the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing: (cid:127) Drive ahead. Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. (cid:127) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it is all right to pass, providing the road ahead is clear. Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic. 4-15 (cid:127) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you are awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you are following a larger vehicle. Also, you will not have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. (cid:127) When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and do not get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a running start that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone is not trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot. (cid:127) Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. Remember that your passenger side outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is. Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle. (cid:127) Do not overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not ﬂashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you are being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right. 4-16 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If your traction control system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid. 4-17 If you use your vehicle for racing or other Racing or Other Competitive Driving See your warranty book before using your vehicle for racing or other competitive driving. Notice: competitive driving, the engine may use more oil than it would with normal use. Low oil levels can damage the engine. For information on how to add oil, see Engine Oil on page 5-16. Z06 Only: Be sure to check the oil level often during racing or other competitive driving and keep the level at or near the upper mark that shows the proper operating range on the engine oil dipstick. Except Z06: Be sure to check the oil level often during racing or other competitive driving and keep the level at or near 1 quart (1 L) above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range on the engine oil dipstick. After the competitive driving, remove excess oil so that the level on the dipstick is not above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range. 4-18 Vehicles with the Z51 performance package have greaseable outer ends on both of the rear toe-links. Under normal use, lubrication should be performed as described in the maintenance schedule. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. If you use the vehicle for racing, lubrication should be performed at the end of each racing day. See your dealer for lubrication and make sure any needed repairs are made at once. Proper procedures for performing these services can be found in the service manual. See Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-14. Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving. (cid:127) Drive defensively. (cid:127) Do not drink and drive. (cid:127) Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you. (cid:127) Since you cannot see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. (cid:127) Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest. No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare, as from a driver who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps, slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep the windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a ﬁlm caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and ﬂash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that the headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as the headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it. 4-19 (cid:127) (cid:127) Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you cannot stop, accelerate, or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires do not have much tread left, you will get even less traction. It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reﬂexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. 4-20 The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It is wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir ﬁlled with washer ﬂuid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts. {CAUTION: Wet brakes can cause accidents. They will not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally. Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before you hit them. Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reﬂections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly. Driving Through Flowing Water {CAUTION: Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through ﬂowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of ﬂowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through ﬂowing water. Some Other Rainy Weather Tips (cid:127) Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. (cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires on page 5-57. 4-21 City Driving Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: (cid:127) Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 4-23. Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light. One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. 4-22 (cid:127) (cid:127) Freeway Driving Mile for mile, freeways — also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic ﬂow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the ﬂow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic ﬂow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. 4-23 Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your blind spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that ﬁrst part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will ﬁnd experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They will be ready and willing to help if you need it. 4-24 Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? (cid:127) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inﬂated to the recommended pressure? (cid:127) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? (cid:127) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps? Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as highway hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: (cid:127) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. (cid:127) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency. 4-25 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (cid:127) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all ﬂuid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system, and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. {CAUTION: If you do not shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope. Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in ﬂat or rolling terrain. 4-26 {CAUTION: Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill. (cid:127) Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill. (cid:127) Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. (cid:127) Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. (cid:127) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. (cid:127) You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action. 4-27 Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 5-57. Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer ﬂuid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a ﬂashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reﬂective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. 4-28 Driving On Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very careful. traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has a traction control system, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you may want to turn the traction control system off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. The Active Handling System may also activate. See Active Handling System on page 4-10. What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least 4-29 Your Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-7. (cid:127) Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. (cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ﬁne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers. If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard ﬂashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow. (cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, ﬂoor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. 4-30 (cid:127) (cid:127) You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful. {CAUTION: Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out. Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. 4-31 Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution. {CAUTION: If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment ﬁre or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer. Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. For more information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-76. 4-32 Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn your traction control system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. For a manual transmission, shift slowly between either FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), allowing the wheels to stop before shifting into gear. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-38. Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certiﬁcation label. {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. 4-33 The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inﬂation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inﬂation see Tires on page 5-57 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certiﬁcation label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certiﬁcation Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle. 3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs. Tire and Loading Information Label Label Example A vehicle speciﬁc Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar) of your vehicle. With the driver’s door open, you will ﬁnd the label attached below the door latch. This label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. 4-34 4. The resulting ﬁgure equals the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be ﬁve 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs). 5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. Your vehicle is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer. Example 1 Item Description Total Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight @ 150 lbs (68 kg) x 1 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 400 lbs (181 kg) 150 lbs (68 kg) 250 lbs (113 kg) 4-35 Example 2 Example 3 Item Description Total Item Description Total Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight @ 150 lbs (68 kg) x 2 = Available Cargo Weight = 400 lbs (181 kg) 300 lbs (136 kg) 100 lbs (45 kg) Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight @ 200 lbs (91 kg) x 2 = Available Cargo Weight = 400 lbs (181 kg) 400 lbs (181 kg) 0 lbs (0 kg) Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for speciﬁc information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. 4-36 Certiﬁcation Label A vehicle speciﬁc Certiﬁcation label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. If your vehicle is a coupe or ZO6 model, the load limit for the rear cargo area is 123 lbs (56 kg). The load limit for the convertible’s rear cargo area is 88 lbs (40 kg). Do not load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. See “Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit” earlier in this section. {CAUTION: Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. 4-37 If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going. {CAUTION: Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash. (cid:127) Put things in the rear area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly. (cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. (cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. (cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. Towing Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with any of its wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, see “Towing Your Vehicle” earlier in this section. Towing a Trailer Your Corvette is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer. 4-38 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ............................................................5-3 Accessories and Modiﬁcations ..........................5-3 California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-3 Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle ..............................................5-4 Fuel ................................................................5-4 Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-5 California Fuel ...............................................5-5 Additives .......................................................5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-6 Filling the Tank ..............................................5-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10 Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10 Hood Release ..............................................5-11 Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12 Engine Oil ...................................................5-16 Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-23 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-25 Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-28 Manual Transmission Fluid .............................5-28 Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-28 Engine Coolant .............................................5-29 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-32 Engine Overheating .......................................5-32 Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode ........................................5-34 Cooling System ............................................5-34 Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-40 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-41 Brakes ........................................................5-42 Battery ........................................................5-45 Jump Starting ...............................................5-46 Rear Axle .......................................................5-51 Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-52 High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting ............5-52 Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-52 Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps ..........................................5-52 Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps ............5-54 Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-54 Windshield Replacement .................................5-54 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-55 Tires ..............................................................5-57 Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-58 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions .....................5-60 Extended Mobility Tires ..................................5-62 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-64 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-67 Tire Rotation ................................................5-69 When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-69 Buying New Tires .........................................5-70 Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-71 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-72 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-73 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-73 Tire Chains ..................................................5-76 Lifting Your Vehicle .......................................5-76 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-81 Appearance Care ............................................5-82 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-82 Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-83 Coated Moldings ...........................................5-84 Leather .......................................................5-84 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces ..................................................5-85 Cargo Cover and Convenience Net .................5-85 Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-85 Weatherstrips ...............................................5-85 Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-86 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-86 Finish Care ..................................................5-86 Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-87 Removable Roof Panel ..................................5-88 Convertible Top ............................................5-88 Aluminum Wheels .........................................5-89 Tires ...........................................................5-89 Finish Damage .............................................5-90 Underbody Maintenance ................................5-90 Fiberglass Springs ........................................5-90 Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-90 Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-91 Vehicle Identiﬁcation ......................................5-92 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) .................5-92 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label .....................5-92 Electrical System ............................................5-92 Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-92 Headlamp Wiring ..........................................5-93 Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-93 Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-93 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-93 Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..........................5-94 Engine Compartment Fuse Block ....................5-98 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-101 5-2 Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: Accessories and Modiﬁcations When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. 5-3 Doing Your Own Service Work {CAUTION: You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-14. 5-4 Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-52. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16. Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identiﬁcation number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes your engine. You will ﬁnd the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-92. Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 6.0L V8 engine (VIN Code U), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You may also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration may be slightly reduced, and you may notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you may notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 7.0L V8 engine (VIN Code E), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. For best performance, use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 93. In an emergency, you can use regular unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 or higher. If 87 octane fuel is used, do not perform any aggressive driving maneuvers such as wide open throttle applications. You may also hear audible spark knock during acceleration. Reﬁll your tank with premium fuel as soon as possible to avoid damaging your engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information. California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. 5-5 Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. 5-6 Filling the Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 5-7 The fuel door release button is located on the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. Push the button to release the fuel door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, let the cap hang by the tether below the fuel ﬁll opening. {CAUTION: If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. There is also a manual fuel door release tab. It is located against the upper trim in the rear compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Pull the tab to release the fuel door. 5-8 Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-86. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42. The CHECK GAS CAP message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53 for more information. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42. 5-9 Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. (cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-10 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the hood release lever with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle below the instrument panel on the driver’s side. 2. Go to the side of the vehicle and pull up on the rear edge of the hood, near the windshield. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then, just pull the hood down and close it ﬁrmly. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview If your vehicle has the 6.0L V8 engine and you are facing the front, when you open the hood, here is what you will see: 5-12 A. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir (If Equipped). See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-28. B. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-41. C. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-42. D. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Engine Coolant on page 5-29. E. Engine Air Cleaner/Filters. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25. F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-40. G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. H. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. I. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-98. J. Passenger Compartment Air Filter (Out of View). See Passenger Compartment Air Filter on page 3-31. K. Battery. See Battery on page 5-45. 5-13 If your vehicle has the 7.0L V8 engine and you are facing the driver’s side of the vehicle, when you open the hood, here is what you will see: 5-14 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25. B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-40. C. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-98. D. Remote Positive Terminal (Out of View). See Battery on page 5-45. E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. F. Dry Sump Engine Oil Tank. See “Changing Engine Oil and Filter (Z06 Only)” Engine Oil on page 5-16. G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-16. H. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See Engine Coolant on page 5-29. I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-41. J. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-42. K. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir (If Equipped). See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-28. 5-15 Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil (Except Z06) If the LOW OIL LEVEL message on the Driver Information Center (DIC) comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-48. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It is a good idea to check your engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a lint-free paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down. 5-16 Checking Engine Oil (Z06 Only) A. Engine Oil Dipstick B. Engine Oil Fill Cap It is a good idea to check your engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. The dipstick is located on the dry sump engine oil tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the dry sump engine oil tank. Z06 models are equipped with a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when checking the engine oil level. Follow this procedure closely when checking the engine oil level. The engine oil level must be checked when the engine is warm. Cold oil level in the dry sump tank may not indicate the actual amount of oil in the system. With this system, engine oil is contained in an external tank, separate from the engine. Under normal operating conditions, the oil pan under the engine does not store any oil. If the vehicle has been parked for an extended period without the engine being started, some oil will seep back into the oil pan, reducing the amount of oil held in the dry sump tank and there could be no engine oil at all showing on the dipstick. This is normal since the dipstick is designed to read engine oil level only after the engine has run long enough to reach normal operating temperature. Do not add engine oil based on cold engine dipstick readings. The engine oil level on the dipstick will also be inaccurate if checked while the engine is running. 1. To obtain an accurate engine oil level reading, warm up the engine to at least 175°F (80°C). 2. Turn off the engine and wait at least ﬁve minutes before removing the dipstick from the dry sump engine oil tank. 3. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a lint-free paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down. 5-17 When to Add Engine Oil (Except Z06) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-101. See Racing or Other Competitive Driving on page 4-18 for additional information on engine oil. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. 5-18 When to Add Engine Oil (Z06 Only) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the dry sump engine oil tank and ﬁll cap. If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-101. See Racing or Other Competitive Driving on page 4-18 for additional information on engine oil. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back into the dry sump engine oil tank when you are through. 5-19 Changing Engine Oil and Filter (Z06 Only) Z06 models are equipped with a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when changing the engine oil and ﬁlter. Follow this procedure closely when changing the engine oil and ﬁlter. A. Engine Oil Drain Plug B. Seal 1. Remove the two drain plugs from the bottom of the engine oil pan. One drain plug is located on the side of the engine oil pan, under the oil ﬁlter, and drains the small amount of residual oil from the oil pan. The other drain plug is located on the front of the engine oil pan and drains the main engine oil storage tank and line. 5-20 2. Once the oil has been drained from the engine, remove the engine oil ﬁlter. Replace the ﬁlter and tighten it to 18 lb ft (25 Y). See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14 for the correct ﬁlter. 3. Install both drain plugs and tighten them to 18 lb ft (25 Y). 4. Oil is ﬁlled through the opening in the top of the dry sump engine oil tank. Remove the ﬁll cap. First add seven quarts (6.6L) of engine oil to the ﬁll port. Do not add more than seven quarts (6.6L) or the excess oil will spill out the top of the tank. 5. Install the oil ﬁll cap and insert the dipstick, if removed. 6. Start the engine and let it run at idle for at least 15 seconds. This will circulate the fresh engine oil through the lubrication system. 7. Shut off the engine, remove the ﬁll cap from the top of the oil tank, and add the last one quart (0.9L) to the ﬁll port. Install the ﬁll cap. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-101. 8. Start the engine and let it run at idle for at least 15 seconds. The oil and ﬁlter change is now complete. 5-21 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: (cid:127) GM4718M Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identiﬁed as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. If you use oils that do not have the Notice: GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. 5-22 Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Your vehicle’s engine is ﬁlled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM4718M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. Z06 models are equipped with a racetrack-ready dry sump engine lubrication system. This high-performance system operates differently than a standard engine lubrication system and requires a special procedure when changing the engine oil and ﬁlter. See Engine Oil on page 5-16. 5-23 When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message after an oil change, do the following: 1. Press the TRIP button so the OIL LIFE percentage is displayed. 2. Press RESET and hold for two seconds. OIL LIFE REMAINING 100% will appear. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. 5-24 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlters. Notice: cleaner/ﬁlter intake and water enters the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter housing, you could damage your vehicle’s engine. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not spray water into the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter intake and/or housing. If you spray water into the engine air What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help. If you are cleaning your vehicle with the hood open, take care not to spray water directly into either end of the air cleaner/ﬁlter housing, as shown in the illustration, as this could damage your vehicle’s engine. 5-25 To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlters, do the following: When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlters at the Maintenance II intervals and replace them at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlters at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters (6.0L V8 Engine) To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlters, remove the ﬁlters from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlters to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlters remain caked with dirt, new ﬁlters are required. 1. Pull the latches on each side of the cover to open, then move the latches up and out of the way. 2. Push the air cleaner/ﬁlter cover toward the front of the vehicle and then pull it up and away. 3. Inspect or replace the ﬁlter. See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. 4. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to replace the air cleaner/ﬁlter cover. 5. Repeat the procedure for the second air cleaner/ﬁlter. 5-26 How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters (7.0L V8 Engine) To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlters, remove the ﬁlters from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlters to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlters remain caked with dirt, new ﬁlters are required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlters, do the following: 1. Remove the screws holding the ﬁlter element in place. 2. Pull on latches found on either side of the ﬁlter. 3. Inspect or replace the ﬁlter. See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. 4. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to replace the air cleaner/ﬁlter cover. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre Notice: can cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. 5-27 Manual Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the manual transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for the proper ﬂuid to use. Hydraulic Clutch It is not necessary to regularly check clutch ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding ﬂuid will not correct a leak. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. Automatic Transmission Fluid How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. There is a special procedure for checking and changing the transmission ﬂuid. Because this procedure is difficult, you should have this done at the dealership service department. Contact your dealer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-14. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5-28 When to Check and What to Use The hydraulic clutch ﬂuid reservoir cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the ﬂuid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper ﬂuid to use. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-8 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check and Add Fluid Make sure the ﬂuid level is at the MIN (Minimum) line on the side of the reservoir. If it is not, remove the cap and add the proper ﬂuid until the level reaches the MIN line. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem

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2006 Chevrolet Corvette Owners Manual