1995 Chevrolet Corvette Owners Manual

beginning of the previous track. SRCH: Press this button to go to the beginning of the next track. SCAN: Press this button to listen to the first eight seconds of each track. Press it again to stop scanning. COMP: Press this button to make loud and soft passages more nearly equal in volume. Press it again for normal play.

To Stop the Disc Player

To help avoid hearing loss or damage:

Turn the power off or turn the ignition key off. The disc stays in the player and will resume playing at the point where it stopped. Press STOP-PLAY to stop playing the disc and switch to radio. Press it again to restart the disc at the point where it stopped. Press EJCT to eject the disc and switch to radio. If the ignition or audio system is turned off, the player will pull the disc back in if you don’t remove it from the opening within 30 seconds.

Tips about Your Audio System Hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe sound level before your hearing adapts to it.

Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting. Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably and clearly.

NOTICE: Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle -- like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two-way radio -- be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, Delco@ radio or other systems, and even damage them. And, your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly. So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check Federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.

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Understanding Radio Reception FM Stereo FM Stereo will give you the best sound. But FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). And, tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, :ausing the sound to come and go.

4M The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it. Care of Your Cassette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes, or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight, and extreme heat. If they aren't, they may not operate properly or cause failure of the tape player.

Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every 50 hours of use. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if the tape or the tape player is at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player. Cleaning may be done with a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn. It is normal for the cartridge to eject while cleaning. Insert the cassette at least 3 times to ensure thorough cleaning. A scrubbing action cleaning cassette is available through your Chevrolet dealership. You may also choose a non-scrubbing action, wet-type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject. It may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner. Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure that the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced.

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Care of Your Compact Discs Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the signal surface when handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge. Power Antenna Mast Care Your power antenna will look its best and work well if it’s cleaned from time to time. To clean the antenna mast: 1. Turn on the radio to raise the antenna. 2. Dampen a clean cloth with mineral spirits or an

equivalent solvent.

3. Wipe the cloth over the mast, removing any dirt. 4. Wipe the mast dry with a clean cloth. 5. Turn the radio off and on to make the antenna go up

and down.

If the antenna is still dirty, repeat the steps.

NOTICE: I could damage it. Don’t lubricate the power antenna. Lubrication I NOTICE:

Before entering an automatic car wash, turn off your radio to make the power antenna go down. This will prevent the mast from possibly getting damaged. If the antenna does not go down when you turn the radio off, it may be damaged or need to be cleaned. In either case, lower the antenna by hand by carefully pressing the antenna down.

If the antenna mast is damaged, you can replace it. See your dealer for a replacement kit and follow the instructions in the kit. The antenna mast can be replaced without removing the entire antenna from the vehicle.

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NOTES

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Section 4 Your Driving and the Road

Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your Corvette: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.) Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads, or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly.

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Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions. We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.

Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle:

Judgment Muscular Coordination

0 Vision 0 Attentiveness Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, some 18,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.

Many adults -- by some estimates, nearly half the adult population -- choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to solve this highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things:

How much alcohol consumed

0 The drinker’s body weight 0 The amount of food that is consumed before and

during drinking The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol

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According to the American Medical Association, a 1 80-pound (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.

It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in many U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In a growing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, the limit is 0.08 percent. In some other countries it’s even lower. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the U.S. is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them.

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There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking -- driver or passenger -- is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increas’es sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is twelve times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is twenty-five times greater! The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision.

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Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle.

Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 314 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; and the condition of your brakes.

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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking -- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) Your Corvette has an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid.

E RVI E

This light on the instrument panel will come on briefly when you start your vehicle.

When you start your vehicle and begin to drive away, you may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise. And you may even notice that your brake pedal moves a little while this is going on. This is the ABS system testing itself. If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, the anti-lock brake system warning light will stay on. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.

Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet. You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS. A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at the rear wheels.

You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.

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Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes.

To Use Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down and let anti-lock work for you. You may hear a motor or clicking noise and feel the brake pedal move a little during a hard stop, but this is normal. When your anti-lock system is adjusting brake pressure to help avoid a braking skid, the ABS ACTIVE light will come on. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Active Light” in the Index. ASR (Acceleration Slip Regulation) System Your vehicle has a traction control system called ASR that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that the rear wheels are spinning too much or are beginning to lose traction. When, this happens, the system works the rear brakes and reduces engine power (by closing the throttle and managing engine spark) to limit wheel spin.

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‘The ASR ACTIVE light will come on when the ASR system is limiting wheel spin. See “ASR System Active Light” in the Index. You may feel the system working, or you may notice some noise, but this is normal. If your vehicle is in cruise control when the ASR system begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may re-engage the cruise control. (See “Cruise Control” in the Index.)

The SERVICE ASR warning light will come on to let you know if there’s a problem with your ASR system.

SERVICE

ASR

See “ASR System Warning Light’’ in the Index. When this warning light is on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly. (The ASR OFF light will also come on when the SERVICE ASR warning light comes on.)

The ASR system automatically comes on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the ASR system off if you ever need to. (You should turn the system off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow. See “Rocking Your Vehicle” in the Index.)

To turn the system off, press the button located above the headlight switch. The ASR OFF light will come on and stay on. If the ASR system is limiting wheel spin when you press the button, the system will turn off right away if you have an LT1 engine. If you have an LT5 engine, however, the system won’t turn off right away. It will wait until there’s no longer a current need to limit wheel spin. You can turn the system back on at any time by pressing the button again. The ASR OFF light should go off. Braking in Emergencies Use your anti-lock braking system when you need to. With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.

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Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this.

The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems -- steering and acceleration -- have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Unless your ASR system is on, adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

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The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o'clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object.

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Off-Road Recovery You may find sometime that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving. If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to 1/4 turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing:

“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traftic.

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0

Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)

0 Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.

0 Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lights are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.

0 If you’re being passed, make it easy for the

following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

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Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive dnvers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your Corvette’s three control systems. In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. Remember: Any ASR system helps avoid only the acceleration skid.

If your ASR system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

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Driving at Night

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving. 0 Drive defensively. 0 Don’t drink and drive.

Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

Night Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

You can be temporarily blinded by approaching lights. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misairned headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching lights. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

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Driving in the Rain

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.

The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.

! Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips

Turn on your low-beam headlamps -- not just your parking lamps -- to help make you more visible to others. Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)

City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: 0 Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

0 Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most

large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)

0 Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. 4-20

At the entrance there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.

The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Chevrolet dealers all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. 0 Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid

levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

0 Know how to go down hills. The most important

thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

0 Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down

to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

4-23

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving: 0 Have your Corvette in good shape for winter. Be

sure your engine coolant mix is correct.

0 You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

4-24

Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the

least traction of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Keep your ASR system on. It improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has the ASR system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See “ASR System’’ in the Index. Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

4-25

If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red

4-26

~

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlights. Let the heater run for awhile. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

4-27

Loading Your Vehicle

TIRE-LOADING INFORMATION

OCCUPANTS

VEHICLE CAP. WT.

RR.

TOTAL

LBS.

KG

FRT. CTR.

MAX. LOADING & GVWR SAME AS VEHICLE CAPACITY WEIGHT PRESSURE

TIRE SIZE

SPEED

COLD TIRE

XXX

PSI/KPa RTG

FRT. RR. SPA. IF TIRES ARE HOT, ADD 4PS1/28KPa SEE OWNER’S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label found on the driver’s door tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called Vehicle Capacity Weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options.

4-28

MFD BY GENERAL MOTORS CORP DATE GVWR GAWR FRT GAWR RR

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLI- CABLE U.S. FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY, BUMPER, AND THEFT PREVENTION STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE.

The other label is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 100 pounds (45 kg) in your rear area.

NOTICE: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

Towing A Trailer Your Corvette is neither designed nor intended to tow a trailer.

4-29

NOTES

4-30

n e

Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road. Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will fla.sh on and off.

Press the button to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, pull out on the collar. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the sid’e of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Corvette. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.

5-2

NOTICE: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your Corvette by pushing or pulling it could damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission. And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that way.

To Jump Start Your Corvette: 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all

lights that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

NOTICE: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your Corvette, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

NOTICE: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the

positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each.

5-3

5. Check that the jumper cables don't have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too.

6. Positive (+) goes to positive (+) and negative (-)

goes to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

5-4

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the

positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good

battery’s negative (-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step.

9. The other end of the negative cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. it goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery. Attach the cable at least 1.8 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

10.

11.

rowing Your Vehicle

I B '

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don't touch each other or any other metal. A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B . Good Battery C . Dead Battery

Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your Corvette. The usual towing equipment is a sling-type (A) or a wheel-lift (B) or car carrier (C) tow truck.

If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding aftermarket items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions and illustrations may not be correct. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle cannot be towed from the rear with sling-type equipment.

0 That your vehicle has rear-wheel drive.

The make, model, and year of your vehicle. Whether you can still move the shift lever. If there was an accident, what was damaged.

When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.

5-7

-

icle's

.ition key

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ign off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the veh steering column lock for this. The transmission should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released. Don't have your vehicle towed on the rear wheels unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the rear wheels, don't go more than 35 mph (55 km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transmission will be damaged. Go slow over rough ground, and position one wheel at a time (angled 45 ") if you have to go over curbs and rises. Wheels at the lifted end should be at least 4 inches (100 mm) above the ground. If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

Front Towing Hook-Ups

Position 4 x4 wood beam across sling chains contacting under fascia just ahead of the curb protect brackets (A).

Attach T-hook chains on both sides into slotted holes behind and inboard of front wheels. Use these slots for sling equipment and car carrier securing.

5-9

I

Position sling crossbar against front of 4 X 4 beam.

Attach a separate safety chain around outboard end of each lower control arm.

5-10

Rear Towing Hook-Ups

Attach T-hook chains in slots forward and just inboard of rear wheels on both sides.

NOTICE: Do not tow with sling-type equipment or rear bumper valance will be damaged.

5-11

NOTICE: Use wheel-lift or car carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment.

NOTICE: Use safety chains and wheel straps.

NOTICE: Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle-to-ground or vehicle-to-wheel-lift-equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.

5-12

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm. I NOTICE: Do not allow chains to contact spring, as damage to spring could result. Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gauge on the instrument cluster and a low coolant light on the Driver Information Center.

'I

5-13

I

Stop after high speed driving. 0 Idle for long periods in traffic. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn off your air conditioner. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (a) or DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

1 NOTICE:

If’ your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: 0 Climb a long hill on a hot day. 5-14

Cooling System

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see on the LT1 engine: 1. Coolant recovery tank 2. Coolant high fill reservoir with pressure cap 3. Electric engine fans

5-15

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see on the LT5 engine: 1. Coolant recovery tank 2. Coolant high fill reservoir with pressure cap 3. Electric engine fans

5-16

When it is cool, remove the coolant recovery tank cap and look at the dipstick.

The coolant level should be at or above COLD. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the ,coo,lant level isn’t at or above the COLD mark, add a 50MI mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (%e “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

NOTICE: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on check to see if the electric engine fan(s) are running. If the engine is overheating, both fan(s) should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.

5-17

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there's one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the coolant high fill reservoir, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

5-19

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant High Fill Reservoir (5.7L LT5 (Code J) Engine)

1. You can remove the coolant high fill reservoir

pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant high fill reservoir pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-20

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. Fill the coolant high fill reservoir with the proper

mix, up to the base of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the HOT mark

on the dipstick.

5-21

5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the coolant high fill reservoir pressure cap off.

6.

7.

Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fans. By this time the coolant level inside the coolant high fill reservoir filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

5-22

8. Shut the engine off and replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant High Fill Reservoir -- LTl Only

NOTICE: The LT1 Engine (Code P) has a specific coolant high fill reservoir fill procedure. Failure this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

t,o follow

5-23

1. You can remove the coolant high fill reservoir

pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant high fill reservoir pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2.. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. After the engine cools, open the air bleed valve on

the water pump inlet.

5-24

8. Start the engine and allow it to run in idle for approximately four minutes. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant high fill reservoir will be lower. Add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

4. Fill with the proper mix. Add coolant until you see a

steady stream of coolant coming from the bleed valve.

5. Close the bleed valve. 6. Continue to fill the coolant high fill reservoir up to

the base of the filler neck.

7. Rinse or wipe the spilled coolant from the engine

and compartment.

9. Shut the engine off and replace the pressure cap. Be

sure the arrows on the cap line up like this.

5-25

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely. If your vehicle has Extended Mobility Tires (tires with “EMT” molded on the sidewalls), see “Extended Mobility Tires” in the Index.

10. Then fill the coolant recovery tank

to the proper

level.

For a complete drain, flush and refill, see your Chevrolet dealer or a Chevrolet Corvette Service Manual. To purchase a service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index.

5-26

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire. Your Corvette wheel lock key has a unique registration number. The registration number is printed on a card included in your locknut package. Also on this card is lost key replacement information. This number is NOT recorded by GM or your dealer, so be sure not to lose this card. You will need the information if you ever lose your wheel lock key.

5-27

If you have someone else remove your wheels, make sure you give them the special wheel nut socket and wheel lock key. They are under the jack in the rear storage compartment behind the passenger’s seat. The socket can be used with an air or torque wrench.

NOTICE: Your wheels could be damaged if the wheel nut socket is not used to remove your Corvette’s wheels.

Always use the wheel nut socket when you use the wheel wrench provided with your Corvette. The equipment you’ll need is behind the driver’s seat and in the rear storage compartment behind the passenger’s seat. Move the driver’s seat all the way forward and fold the seatback forward. The wheel wrench is on the floor behind the seat. Loosen the wingnuts and slide the wheel wrench out of the clamps.

The jack, wheel nut socket and wheel lock key are in the rear storage compartment behind the passenger’s seat (unless you chose the spare tire delete option). Open the compartment door and remove the plastic tray. Lift the jack, wheel nut socket and wheel lock key out of the foam container. You should have a jack, wheel wrench, socket and a wheel lock key.

The spare tire is on a tire carrier tray under the rear end of your vehicle. To lower the tray position yourself behind the vehicle facing the front and use the socket end of the wheel wrench to turn the latch bolt clockwise. Lower the tray about an inch. Don’t loosen the latch bolt too much, or the tray could fall.

Put the hooked end of the wheel wrench into the slot in the tray. Insert the wheel wrench a little from the side so it isn’t over the latch bolt. Pull up on the wheel wrench to lift the tray.

5-29

While holding the tray up with the wheel wrench, pull the latch bolt rearward to release it from the tray. If it won’t come free, loosen it a little more. Carefully lower the tray using the wheel wrench and remove the spare tire.

Remove the plastic wheel nut caps using the socket end of the wheel wrench by turning the wrench in the direction shown. Store the caps somewhere until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

5-30

P

Each wheel will have one locknut. A special wheel lock key (removal tool) and instructions are provided. Attach the wheel lock key to the wheel wrench. Remove the locking wheel nut by turning counterclockwise.

Attach the wheel nut socket to the wheel wrench and loosen all the wheel nuts by turning the wrench in the direction shown. Don’t remove them yet.

5-31

Attach the wheel wrench to the jack. Hold the wheel wrench handle so it forms a right angle with the jack, then turn it clockwise.

When you’ve turned the wrench almost as far as it will go, swing it around to the other side. Keep turning to raise the jack lift head a few inches.

5-32

A

Position the jack under the vehicle. There are two locator triangles (A) on the panels (B) near each wheel. Raise the lift head (C) until it fits firmly under the steel rocker flange (D) between the triangles nearest the flat tire. If you have a ZR- 1, the triangles are on the underside of the molding. The flange is inboard of the triangles.

Stay away from the moldings or fender flanges to avoid damaging them.

5-33

NOTICE: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

Raise the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

5-34

Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

Lower the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

5-35

Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown.

The LOWELAT TIRE or SERVICE LTPWS light will stay on as long as you are using the compact spare tire. It should go out when the original tire is replaced. After you have the flat tire repaired or replaced, install the plastic nut caps and tighten them to 22 pound-inches (2.5 Nem). Put the jack, wheel nut socket and wheel lock key in the rear storage compartment behind the passenger’s seat. Make sure the parts are stored properly in the foam container. Position the jack in the container so that you can read the yellow CAUTION label from the driver’s seat. Replace the plastic tray and close the storage compartment.

5-36

Storing a Flat Tire (Except ZR-1 Rear Tires)

NOTICE: Your Corvette’s radio receiver box is in the rear storage compartment. To help avoid damage, carefully place the jack, socket and wheel lock key into the foam container in the compartment. Do not toss or place the items against the radio receiver box or any wiring.

If you have not chosen the spare tire delete option, you’ll notice the road tire is larger than the spare, so you must adjust the tray to its lower position. Lift and push the tire carrier tray toward the front of the vehicle. The tray will drop to its lower position.

5-37

F

Put the flat road tire on the tray. Lift the latch bolt, push it toward the front of the vehicle, and the bolt will drop down to the lower position.

Put the hooked end of the wheel wrench into the slot in the tray. Lift the tray using the wheel wrench and insert the latch bolt into the notch in the tray. To raise the tray, use the socket end of the wheel wrench to turn the latch bolt counterclockwise. Turn the latch bolt until it is snug.

5-38

Put the wheel wrench back in its place under the driver’s seat. Be sure to tighten the wingnuts.

Storing a Flat Tire (ZR-1 Rear Tires)

A ZR-1 rear tire will not fit in the tray, so you must put it on the floor of the rear area. Put the flat tire in the storage bag provided. Place the tire on the rear area floor. Use the luggage straps to hold the tire in place. Loosen the straps, then attach each end of the longer strap to the rear cargo hooks. Attach the other strap to the hook behind the console.

5-39

Compact Spare Tire (If So Equipped) Although the compact spare was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 Wa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at posted speed limits for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

Tighten the straps by pulling on the loose ends. When the tire is stored in the rear cargo area, you can’t store a removable roof panel. It will not fit into the latches properly. Raise the tire carrier tray to its upper position and tighten the latch bolt until it is snug. Put the wheel wrench back in its place under the driver’s seat. Be sure to tighten the wingnuts.

5-40

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

NOTICE: Don’t take your compact spare through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on some other vehicle. And don’t mix your compact spare or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare and its wheel together.

NOTICE: Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them will damage your vehicle and destroy the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

5-41

I NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn your ASR system off. (See “ASR System” in the Index.) Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) gear and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

5-42

e

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your Corvette. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care. Service Your Chevrolet dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper Corvette Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your Corvette than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications’’ in the Index.

6-1

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Corvette” in the Index. You ;should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

NOTICE: If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough about it, your vehicle could be damaged.

Fuel 5.7L LT5 (Code J) Engine The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.) Use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 9 1 octane or higher. You may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines, but your vehicle may not accelerate as well. The gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the United States and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see UNLEADED right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck.

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Be sure the posted octane is at least 91. If the octane is less than 91, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. (In an emergency, you may be able to use lower octane -- as low as 87 -- if heavy knocking does not occur.) If you’re using 91 or higher octane unleaded gas and you still get heavy knocking, your engine needs service. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle.

i Wethanol is methyl or wood alcohol.

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5 % methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5 % or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

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Gasolines for Cleaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions.

5.7L LT1 (Code P) Engine Use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher for best performance. You may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines, but your vehicle may not accelerate as well. The gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the United States and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see UNLEADED right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91 (at least 89 for middle grade and 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 91 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

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What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

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Filling Your Tank

While refueling, place the cap in the indent to the left of the filler neck.

To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

The cap is under a hinged door on the rear decklid of your vehicle.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Corvette” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear at least three clicks.

NOTICE: If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

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Checking Things Under the Hood Hood Release

To open the hood, first pull the handle inside the vehicle.

Then go to the side of the vehicle and pull up on the rear edge of the hood, near the windshield.

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You’ll see the following when you open the hood with the LTl engine: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (if equipped) Brake Fluid Reservoir Battery Electric Engine Fan Air Cleaner Coolant Recovery Tank Power Steering Fluid Reservoir Engine Oil Fill Cap Engine Oil Dipstick Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir Coolant High Fill Reservoir Automatic Transmission Dipstick (if equipped)

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Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on.

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You’ll see the following when you open the hood with the LT5 engine: 1. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir 2. Brake Fluid Reservoir 3. Battery 4. Electric Engine Fan

5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

Air Cleaner Coolant Recovery Tank Power Steering Fluid Reservoir Engine Oil Fill Cap Engine Oil Dipstick Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir Coolant High Fill Reservoir

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on,

Then release the hood strut by moving it to the centered position and lowering the hood. Lower the hood until the bottom of the hood is the same height as the top of the windshield, then release it.

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Engine Oil If you have the LT1 engine, it’s a good idea to check your engine oil level every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

If you have the LT5 engine, the best time to ~ check your engine oil is when the engine is cold.

If you run the engine, the engine oil won’t drain back into the pan fast enough. Give the oil two hours to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

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-

. .... *.*.*.

e...

To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or a cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down.

LTl Engine When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

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Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Oil to Use Look for two things: 0 GM4718M

The Corvette engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this Standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM Standard. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM47 1 8M.

NOTICE: If you use oils that don’t have the GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty.

LT5 Engine

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RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE MNGE.

HOT

WEATHER

LOOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

1-J

--

SAE 1OW-30

SAE 5W-30 PREFERRED

COLD

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (-1S.OC) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

Oils meeting these requirements should also have the “Starburst” symbol on the container.

The “Starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for your gasoline engine. These oils may also be identified as API SH.

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@

synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for

You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard 4718M and have the “Starburst” symbol on the front of the oil container. Your Corvette engine is filled at the factory with a Mobil 1 your vehicle. Substitute Oil (LTl Only): When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM47 18M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the “Starburst” symbol or API Service SH at all temperatures. If temperatures are above 0” F (- 18 O C), you may substitute SAE 1OW-30 with the “Starburst” symbol or API Service SH oil. This oil should not be used for an oil change. Substitute Oil (LT5 Only): When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, if an oil meeting GM Standard GM47 18M is not available, you can use oil designated SAE 1OW-30 with the “Starburst” symbol or API Service SH at all temperatures. This oil should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your Chevrolet dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

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When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you: 0 Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).

This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop and go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas.

If any one of these is true for your vehicle, you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever comes first. (See “Engine Oil Life Monitor” in the Index.) If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever comes first. (See “Engine Oil Life Monitor” in the Index.) Engine Coolant Heater An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0” F (- 1 8 O C) or colder. If your vehicle has this feature, see “Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index.

What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin